-
-
Introduction
-
Instructions for 2-color Double Bed Jacquard
-(AYAB's "Ribber" setting.)
-
Double bed jacquard (DBJ) as described here (Rib Jacquard with birds-eye backing)
-is known in Brother manuals as Multi-Colour Rib. See pages 38-39 of the
-KR850 ribber manual (the penguins) and
-page 11 of the manual for the KRC-900 color changer.
-You can make other DBJ variants, too (see end of this page).
-Note that DBJ in 3 or more colors has some differences, though the basic
-instructions are the same. Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the
-KH910 manual and
-on page 1 of the KR850 manual, respectively.
-
-
Smiley was made from this image:
-
-
AYAB takes care of the colors for you, you just give it a black-and-white
-pattern as if you are going to do single bed Fair Isle. To create your own patterns,
-refer to section "Pattern creation".
-Use thin yarns, you'll be using side-by-side needles on both beds. (for those
-in the US, Woollike yarn works well.)
-For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with
-AYAB 0.9 (or newer), find it in the folder [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/.
-
-
which looks like this:
-
-
The useful thing about this Triangles pattern is that row 1 selects 1 black
-needle per triangle, row 2 selects groups of 2, row 3 groups of 3 etc.
-If you watch the needle selection carefully you'll start to understand what
-it's doing.
-
Instructions
-
-- Set up the ribber (KR850 manual, pages 3-7)
-- Set up the color changer (KHR900 manual, pages 2-4) with the black yarn
- (foreground color); the white slot (background color) is open ready to accept
- the yarn after the cast on.
-- You might need the fine knit bar. Try it if your stitches sometimes tuck
- instead of knitting off.
-- On the ribber, set half-pitch lever to H (P-H lever=H, see KR850 manual,
- page 13),
-- On the ribber, set racking grip handle to 5 (Rack=5, KR850 manual p.13)
-- set bracket lever to the normal (highest) position (KR850 manual, p.14)
-- Needles L30-R30 on both beds for our first Triangles sample
-- Make sure you have an even number of stitches on the ribber.
-- Cast on in white in FNR (Full Needle Rib) as shown on pages 26-28 of the KR850 manual.
-- Knit one or two rows of FNR.
-- Carriage on left, outside the left turn mark.
-- Set the row counter, RC=000
--
-
Set up the carriages as shown on page 39 of the KR850 manual:
- Page 39.png
- Main bed: Both part buttons in; KC1 or KC2.
- I usually use KC2 rather than KC1.
- Ribber: Both sliders (cam levers) up. Both lili buttons to lili.
- Lower slide lever to lili (center).
- Stitch Size depends on your yarn. Try 4/4.
-
--
-
In the AYAB software, left-click "Load pattern" and select the image triangles_60x10.png.
- (For other patterns, choose a black/white image that is at least as wide as the
- needles you are using)
-
-- Set AYAB to 2-color, start at row 1, Infinite Repeat, start/stop needles 30/30,
- Ribber ("Ribber: Classic" for AYAB v0.95), Center.
-- Configure
-- Knit
-- Press the color changer button for the black yarn
-- Bring the carriage out past the turn mark and stop to wait for the triple-beep
- as usual, just on this first row.
-- Also check that the black yarn is in the feeder, and if this is its first row,
- check that the yarn end is hanging straight down and isn't caught anywhere.
-- Knit across, wait for the beep.
-- Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so.
-- Press the button to change to white.
-- Knit across, wait for the beep.
-- Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so.
-- Press the button to change to black
-
-
That's it, repeat: Knit across, knit back, change color.
-After the first set AYAB will have counted up two rows and be starting row 3,
-the row counter will show 4 passes.
-
After about 10 rows (20 passes), stop with the carriage on the right and check:
-
-- let the starting ends of the yarn hang free
-- make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath
-- feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell
- if a loop is caught around a gate peg.
-- hang the "sevens" wires and weights if the edge stitches are having trouble
- knitting off.
-
-
Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to
-put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the
-work on the side away from you, and birds-eye stripes on the side facing you.
-
For finalizing the knit, you may want to add 1-2 rows of FNR (KR850
-manual, p. 28). Binding off (casting off) is described on page 53 of the KR850
-manual or in this video on Youtube: Double Bed Bind-Off Video)
-Any bind off that requires latching stitches through each other requires the
-last row before chaining stitches to be knit looser than previous ones (see below)
-An alternative method ("Das Abketten II") is translated as follows:
-Transfer all stitches to the rear needle bed [to the needle bed of the KH 910
-(KR850 manual, p.52)] and immediately set the empty needles of the KR 850
-ribber back to the B-position.
-At the K carriage of the KH 910, set the tension dial 4 steps higher [to 7].
-The tension dial of the KR 850 ribber carriage remains unchanged. Move the
-carriage from left to right. On the needles of the KR 850 ribber, stitches have
-formed around the previously empty needles. Disconnect the carriages
-[(KR850 manual, p. 15)] and move the KR 850 ribber carriage from right to left.
-Thereby, the stitches are removed from the needles of the KR 850 ribber. Now,
-lower the KR 850 ribber [to the lowest position (KR850 manual, p. 14)]. This has
-created the elongated stitches that may again be chained through each other:
-Set the needles of the KH 910 needle bed to the E-position. Remove the weights
-and the comb, then proceed by binding off as described on page 22 or
-pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual.
-
More description on how 2-color DBJ works
-
In our Triangles sample with Infinite Repeat on, let's stop and observe, with
-the carriage on the left at the beginning of row 1 of its cycle of ten rows. We
-have just changed to the black yarn ready for the next row 1 as displayed in AYAB.
-Remember that AYAB's row numbering focuses on what's being selected not what's
-being knitted.
-
Notice that what's selected now is the last set of 10 black needles to complete
-the previous triangle.
-Knit across from left-right.
-It has completed knitting the previous triangle, and has selected sets of 1
-needle to do the first point of the next triangle.
-Knit across right-left and change color to white. Stop again and observe before
-you knit the row.
-It has just knitted the single black stitches, and selected sets of 9 to be the
-white stitches that go in between the single black ones for that same row.
-
The sequence of 4 passes for two rows is:
-Pass 1: Black yarn, knit whatever it was given by the last selection of the
-previous set. Select for the black stitches for row 1 of this set of two rows.
-Pass 2: Black yarn, Knit the first black stitches, select for the white stitches
-that will go in between the black stitches we just knitted, also for row 1 of
-this set.
-Change color to white.
-Pass 3: White yarn, knit the selected needles to complete row 1, select for the
-white stitches of row 2 of this set.
-Pass 4: White yarn, knit the selected needles, select for the black stitches of
-row 2 of this set.
-Change color to black.
-
Notice that the selection is an "ABBA" sequence. Black, white, white, black;
-repeat.
-
Each set of four passes does the selections for two rows of the pattern. But the
-set is not completely self-contained, its first pass completes the knitting of
-the previous set, and its fourth pass does a selection which will be knitted in
-the first pass of the next set of four passes.
-
You'll see discussions about Brother 2-color DBJ needing to start by selecting
-from the right, so how does that square with AYAB always starting from the left?
-I think it's just an alternative way of thinking about how 2-color DBJ works.
-In the AYAB context where everything starts from the left, each set of 4 passes
-has provided the selection for the next set during its last right-left pass. So
-in a sense the first selection of the set did start on the right; in AYAB that
-is counted as the last pass of the previous set.
-
Further observations
-
--
-
Color changers are not 100% reliable, though there are adjustments you can
- make. Occasionally it will grab both yarns or neither, and disaster ensues.
- Use the slower rhythm enforced by AYAB to take a look at the yarn in the
- feeder every time as it come out of the color changer. You may be able to stop
- in time to fix it.
-
--
-
AYAB 0.95 and earlier expect the black yarn first. The more usual convention is
- to do the white first, more intuitive. That will likely be changed in a future
- release of AYAB; for now the instructions describe black first. Otherwise
- 2-color DBJ works well as it is, doesn't particularly need any code changes.
-
--
-
You might be wondering what happens on the very first pass. There's nothing
- pre-selected on the main bed, so it only knits on the ribber (alternating
- needles because of the lili settings) while selecting for the first black
- pattern stitches. Technically I think that means that there's an extra ribber
- row at the beginning, but it gets absorbed into the backing pattern and is not
- noticeable. In subsequent first passes of the cycle of 4 passes/2 rows, it has
- been provided with selected needles to knit in black.
-
--
-
How do you end your pattern on exactly the right row at the end of a repeat?
- In Infinite Repeat you'll need to do one or two passes of the next cycle, but
- cancelling any selection on the second pass. In non-repeating, the long beep
- sounds after it has selected for the last row. Knit one or two more passes.
-
--
-
When using the lili settings, you must have an even number of stitches on the
- ribber. Take a look at the sides of your sample, do you want to have the edge
- stitch always on the main bed? (Optional, but may look better) To keep an even
- number on the ribber, your main bed will need on odd number of stitches.
-
--
-
Doing some FNR after the cast-on and before starting the pattern can make a
- wavy edge. With careful management, it's possible to use the last circular row
- of your cast-on as the first (setup) row of your pattern.
-
--
-
Sometimes you want DBJ all in one color. Just make an image that's all white
- or all black, no color-changing needed.
-
--
-
Some of Brother's DBJ instructions claim that the extra "latch plate" to add
- to the ribber connector arm is required. See page 49 of the 930/940 manual.
- Not so, it's optional. In fact when I tried it it seemed to make things worse,
- the color change was less reliable. (Latch plate is misspelled as Clatch Plate
- in the 930/940 manual.)
-
-
-
-
Alternative Jacquard variants with AYAB
-
Different variants of DBJ exist. A selection of carriage settings that can easily
-be used with the AYAB hack is provided in table 1 and table 2 below. More
-variants that require different degrees of hand manipulation are described
-together with fabric properties in a blog post by Alessandrina.
-
Table 1: Carriage settings for a selection of different DBJ variants.
-Adapted from a blog post by "steel breeze" and Alessandrina (2017)
-with permission from the original authors.
-
-
-
-| Lever |
-striper (double) |
-striper (half) |
-tucked half Milano |
-
-
-
-
-| KH carriage |
-... |
-... |
-... |
-
-
-| Cam buttons |
-Part L, Part R |
-Part L, Part R |
-Tuck R, Part L |
-
-
-| Change knob |
-KCI or KCII |
-KCI or KCII |
-KCI |
-
-
-| KR carriage |
-... |
-... |
-... |
-
-
-| Holding Cam Lever L |
-N |
-N |
-N |
-
-
-| Holding Cam Lever R |
-N |
-N |
-N |
-
-
-| KR Change Knob L* |
-0 |
-0 |
-0 |
-
-
-| KR Change Knob R* |
-0 |
-0 |
-0 |
-
-
-| Cam Lever L |
-N |
-N |
-N |
-
-
-| Cam Lever R |
-N |
-P.R. |
-N |
-
-
-| Tucking Lever |
-R |
-R |
-R |
-
-
-| Slide Lever |
-IiIi |
-IiIi |
-IiIi |
-
-
-
-
* KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark.
-
Table 2: carriage settings for DBJ with solid backing. Adapted from
-"steel breeze" (2010) and Alessandrina (2017)
-with permission from the original authors.
-
-
-
-| Lever |
-solid (col1)** |
-solid (col2)** |
-
-
-
-
-| KH carriage |
-... |
-... |
-
-
-| Cam buttons |
-Part L, Part R |
-Part L, Part R |
-
-
-| Change knob |
-KCI or KCII |
-KCI or KCII |
-
-
-| KR carriage |
-... |
-... |
-
-
-| Holding Cam Lever L |
-N |
-N |
-
-
-| Holding Cam Lever R |
-N |
-N |
-
-
-| KR Change Knob L* |
-0 |
-0 |
-
-
-| KR Change Knob R* |
-0 |
-0 |
-
-
-| Cam Lever L |
-P.R. |
-N |
-
-
-| Cam Lever R |
-P.R. |
-N |
-
-
-| Tucking Lever |
-R |
-R |
-
-
-| Slide Lever |
-IiIi |
-IiIi |
-
-
-
-
* KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark.
-** After each 2 rows, change settings and proceed with the next color.
-
This article is copied from ravelry
-and modified by DerAndere.
-Thanks, Adrienne!
-Settings for alternative Jacquard variants were taken from
-a blog post by "steel breeze"
-and a blog post by Alessandrina.
-Feel free to improve it!
-
-
-
- 
-
-
