diff --git a/0.95/index.html b/0.95/index.html index ebc022f..dfa0870 100644 --- a/0.95/index.html +++ b/0.95/index.html @@ -161,5 +161,5 @@ diff --git a/0.95/pattern_image_creation/index.html b/0.95/pattern_image_creation/index.html index a83555f..1e458cd 100644 --- a/0.95/pattern_image_creation/index.html +++ b/0.95/pattern_image_creation/index.html @@ -142,31 +142,38 @@

Pattern creation

from the vector graphics program Inkscape to create scalable patterns.

Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file

    -
  1. Download GIMP 2.10.10 (or newer) from the GIMP homepage +
  2. Download the latest version of GIMP from the GIMP homepage and install it.
  3. Run GIMP.
  4. In GIMP, left-click File -> New.
    5. -
  5. Select the desired hight and width in pixels (= number of rows and stitches - per row, respectively), then left-click "OK". See below - to learn how to compensate for elongation of the resulting fabric.
    6. -
  6. In GIMP, left-click Image -> Modus -> Indexed. In the dialog that pops up, - select "black/white (1bit)" for textiles with two colors.
    7. -
  7. Select the pencil tool (hotkey: N).
    8. +
  8. Enter the desired width and height in pixels (= number of stitches per row and number of rows, respectively), + then left-click "OK".
    9. +
  9. Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed. In the dialog that pops up, + select "Use black and white (1-bit) palette" for textiles with two colors.
    10. +
  10. Left-click Tools -> Paint Tools -> Pencil (hotkey: N).
  11. Set the pencil tool settings to Size = 1.00 (1x1 pixel), Hardness = 100, keep other tool options at default settings (Dynamics Off). Keep default foreground color (black) and background color (white).
    12. -
  12. Optionally show grid: Left-click View -> Show Grid. Then, left-click - Image -> Configure Grid. Set Spacing:Horizontal = 1.00 pixels and - Spacing:Vertical = 1.00 pixels. Left-click "OK".
    13. -
  13. Draw the pattern (Zoom in using View -> Zoom to see individual pixels):
    - so that background color is represented by white pixels and contrast color - (foreground) is represented by black pixels.
    14. -
  14. In GIMP, left-click File -> "Export as". In the "Export Image" dialog that - pops up, type in a file name and select the target directory, then - left-click "Select File Type (By Extension)" -> "PNG (.PNG)", +
  15. Show grid: Left-click View -> Show Grid.
    16. +
  16. Configure Grid: Left-click Image -> Configure Grid. Set Spacing:Horizontal = 1.00 pixels and + Spacing:Vertical = 1.00 pixels. Left-click "OK".
    17. +
  17. Zoom in to see individual pixels. Left-click View -> Zoom -> select the percentage you want.
    18. +
  18. Draw the pattern:
    + In most cases, your background color is represented by white pixels and contrast color + (foreground) is represented by black pixels. You may need to set the pencil to black. + Left-click Tools -> Default colors.
    19. +
  19. In case you make an error: Mouse over a white square on your image and press CTRL. + Your pencil will now color any square white. Fix your error. To return to black as + your foreground color, left-click Tools -> Default colors.
    20. +
  20. Once you've finished your pattern, save the file in xcf format just in case + you need to make modifications later. Left-click File -> Save. Type in a file name, then + select the target directory. Select Save.
    21. +
  21. Now save for AYAB. Left-click File -> "Export as". In the "Export Image" dialog that + pops up, type in a file name and select the target directory. + Next, left-click "Select File Type (By Extension)" -> "PNG (.PNG)", then left-click "Export". In the "Export as PNG" dialog that pops up, you can - keep Compression level = 9 and optionally deselect all other options, then - left-click "Export" at the bottom of that dialog.
    22. + keep Compression level = 9 and optionally deselect all other options. + Then left-click "Export" at the bottom of that dialog.
  22. You can close GIMP now.

How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation

diff --git a/0.95/search/search_index.json b/0.95/search/search_index.json index 50613fe..f0aecf9 100644 --- a/0.95/search/search_index.json +++ b/0.95/search/search_index.json @@ -1 +1 @@ -{"config":{"indexing":"full","lang":["en"],"min_search_length":3,"prebuild_index":false,"separator":"[\\s\\-]+"},"docs":[{"location":"","text":"Information about the AYAB project can be found at ayab-knitting.com . The code for the AYAB project is hosted on GitHub .","title":"Home"},{"location":"faq/","text":"This sections contains a list of commonly asked questions on Facebook, ravelry and so on. Sorry :( No content yet, we are still working on it!","title":"Frequently Asked Questions"},{"location":"gui/","text":"Windows Graphics Scene Knit Progress Window Status Bar / Progress Bar Load Image Button Filename Input Knit Options Port Selection Simulation Mode Settings Tab Knitting Mode Start Row Infinite Repeat Start Needle Stop Needle Alignment Mirror Image Status Tab Knit Button Cancel Button Menu File >> Quit Image Actions Invert Stretch Repeat Reflect Horizontal Flip Vertical Flip Rotate Left Rotate Right Tools >> Load AYAB Firmware Preferences Default Knitting Mode Default Infinite Repeat Default Alignment Default Mirroring Quiet Mode Language Help >> Help \u2013 About","title":"Graphical User Interface"},{"location":"gui/#windows","text":"","title":"Windows"},{"location":"gui/#graphics-scene","text":"","title":"Graphics Scene"},{"location":"gui/#knit-progress-window","text":"","title":"Knit Progress Window"},{"location":"gui/#status-bar-progress-bar","text":"","title":"Status Bar / Progress Bar"},{"location":"gui/#load-image-button","text":"","title":"Load Image Button"},{"location":"gui/#filename-input","text":"","title":"Filename Input"},{"location":"gui/#knit-options","text":"","title":"Knit Options"},{"location":"gui/#port-selection","text":"","title":"Port Selection"},{"location":"gui/#simulation-mode","text":"","title":"Simulation Mode"},{"location":"gui/#settings-tab","text":"","title":"Settings Tab"},{"location":"gui/#knitting-mode","text":"","title":"Knitting Mode"},{"location":"gui/#start-row","text":"","title":"Start Row"},{"location":"gui/#infinite-repeat","text":"","title":"Infinite Repeat"},{"location":"gui/#start-needle","text":"","title":"Start Needle"},{"location":"gui/#stop-needle","text":"","title":"Stop Needle"},{"location":"gui/#alignment","text":"","title":"Alignment"},{"location":"gui/#mirror-image","text":"","title":"Mirror Image"},{"location":"gui/#status-tab","text":"","title":"Status Tab"},{"location":"gui/#knit-button","text":"","title":"Knit Button"},{"location":"gui/#cancel-button","text":"","title":"Cancel Button"},{"location":"gui/#menu","text":"","title":"Menu"},{"location":"gui/#file-quit","text":"","title":"File >> Quit"},{"location":"gui/#image-actions","text":"","title":"Image Actions"},{"location":"gui/#invert","text":"","title":"Invert"},{"location":"gui/#stretch","text":"","title":"Stretch"},{"location":"gui/#repeat","text":"","title":"Repeat"},{"location":"gui/#reflect","text":"","title":"Reflect"},{"location":"gui/#horizontal-flip","text":"","title":"Horizontal Flip"},{"location":"gui/#vertical-flip","text":"","title":"Vertical Flip"},{"location":"gui/#rotate-left","text":"","title":"Rotate Left"},{"location":"gui/#rotate-right","text":"","title":"Rotate Right"},{"location":"gui/#tools-load-ayab-firmware","text":"","title":"Tools >> Load AYAB Firmware"},{"location":"gui/#preferences","text":"","title":"Preferences"},{"location":"gui/#default-knitting-mode","text":"","title":"Default Knitting Mode"},{"location":"gui/#default-infinite-repeat","text":"","title":"Default Infinite Repeat"},{"location":"gui/#default-alignment","text":"","title":"Default Alignment"},{"location":"gui/#default-mirroring","text":"","title":"Default Mirroring"},{"location":"gui/#quiet-mode","text":"","title":"Quiet Mode"},{"location":"gui/#language","text":"","title":"Language"},{"location":"gui/#help-help-about","text":"","title":"Help >> Help \u2013 About"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/","text":"Pattern creation Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation Creating scalable patterns with Inkscape Inkscape step by step Using Inkscape to scale patterns for creation of differently sized textiles Scaling step by step Pattern creation You can use free open source software to design patterns. Create an image with a width of 200 pixels or less with indexed colors. For two color knitwork, make the image monochromatic: black and white (1 bit) with each pixel representing a stitch. Save it in the PNG file format. The following instructions show how to achieve this using GIMP and how to benefit from the vector graphics program Inkscape to create scalable patterns. Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file Download GIMP 2.10.10 (or newer) from the GIMP homepage and install it. Run GIMP. In GIMP, left-click File -> New. Select the desired hight and width in pixels (= number of rows and stitches per row, respectively), then left-click \"OK\". See below to learn how to compensate for elongation of the resulting fabric. In GIMP, left-click Image -> Modus -> Indexed. In the dialog that pops up, select \"black/white (1bit)\" for textiles with two colors. Select the pencil tool (hotkey: N). Set the pencil tool settings to Size = 1.00 (1x1 pixel), Hardness = 100, keep other tool options at default settings (Dynamics Off). Keep default foreground color (black) and background color (white). Optionally show grid: Left-click View -> Show Grid. Then, left-click Image -> Configure Grid. Set Spacing:Horizontal = 1.00 pixels and Spacing:Vertical = 1.00 pixels. Left-click \"OK\". Draw the pattern (Zoom in using View -> Zoom to see individual pixels): so that background color is represented by white pixels and contrast color (foreground) is represented by black pixels. In GIMP, left-click File -> \"Export as\". In the \"Export Image\" dialog that pops up, type in a file name and select the target directory, then left-click \"Select File Type (By Extension)\" -> \"PNG (.PNG)\", then left-click \"Export\". In the \"Export as PNG\" dialog that pops up, you can keep Compression level = 9 and optionally deselect all other options, then left-click \"Export\" at the bottom of that dialog. You can close GIMP now. How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation If you want to create fabrics with exact dimensions and compensate for the fact that stitches are usually wider than high, you must first determine your gauge: Choose your yarn and make a gauge swatch with it on your knitting machine (a small test fabric produced with the same settings as used for the final product). Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm). If the desired width (W) and height (H) of the fabric or shape you want to create is given, calculate the required number of stitches (s) according to formula 1): s = x * W , and calculate the required number of rows (r) according to the following formula 2): r = y * H . Otherwise, if the desired number of stitches per row (s) and the desired resulting aspect ratio [W:H] of the fabric or shape is given, use the following formula 3): r = s * y / (x * [W:H]) . Creating scalable patterns with Inkscape To create patterns that can be scaled with optimal quality, design them in a vector graphics program. The following instructions use Inkscape which is open source. A video tutorial that also explains how to fill shapes with a repetitive pattern and how to adjust the pattern fill according to your gauge can be found in a post on the blog by DerAndere . Here are the basic steps: Inkscape step by step Download Inkscape 0.92 (or newer) for free from the Inkscape homepage and install it. Run Inkscape, left-click \"View\" and activate the option \"page grid\". Left-click File -> Document properties. In the dialog that pops up, Set user-defined hight and width of the document in mm, so that the document is about twice as big as the desired size of the textile to be designed. Left-click the tab \"grid\" and set grid units to mm. Then set \"spacing X\" = 1 and \"spacing Y\" = 1. Close the dialog. Left-click on the tool \"Create rectangle and squares\" tool (hotkey: F4) in the left toolbar and draw. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your rectangle and adjust it using the tool controls that appear in the toolbar at the top. The width and hight in mm of that rectangle should equal exactly the desired width (W) and hight (H) of the fabric part you want to produce. Left-click \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) -> Fill -> \"Solid color\". Set the value RGBA = ffffffff (white). Left-click the tab \"Stroke color\" and set it to \"No color\". Left-click on one of the drawing tools in the left toolbar and draw a shape of the desired size inside the existing (invisible) rectangle from step 4-6. For B\u00e9zier-curves, the drawing mode has to be selected from the toolbar at the top before drawing and double-click or pressing the [enter] key ends drawing. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your second shape and adjust it using the tool controls or by dragging the handles of the shape with the mouse. Left-click Object -> \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) and set stroke color and/or fill color to \"No color\", RGBA = ffffffff (white) or RGBA = 000000ff (black). Left-click File -> \"Save as...\" and choose a destination and file name. It is recommended to indicate the part size in the file name. Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm) as described above . Use the select-tool, select all objects including the background rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform..... Left-click the tab \"Scale\". Change % to mm, verify that the option \"proportional scaling\" is disabled and set Hight to the new hight h: h = H * y / x . Here, H is the desired fabric hight in mm. Left-click Apply. Calculate the required stitches per row (s) for your textile using formula 1): s = x * W . Here, x is again the number of stitches per mm, W is the desired fabric width (see step 5) in mm. Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle and left-click File -> \"Export as PNG\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[E]). Left-click the tab \"Selection\" and set unit to px. Set Image size:Width to the value of s (required stitches per row). Left-click \"Export as\", set the target path, type in a file name that indicates the part size and gauge and left-click \"Export\". It is recommended to undo step 12 by going to Edit -> Undo ([Ctrl]+[Z]) before making further adjustments to the design inside Inkscape. Optionally, open the exported PNG in GIMP 2.10 (or newer) and increase contrast by left-clicking Colors -> Levels and adjusting the Input min and max value (black triangle: set black point, white triangle: set white point). Left-click OK. Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed -> black/white (1bit). Then edit the pattern using the pencil tool and export as PNG as described in the previous section . Using Inkscape to scale patterns for creation of differently sized textiles If you have a pattern saved as SVG file and you want to change the resulting fabric size, you can scale it using Inkscape: Scaling step by step Open the SVG file in Inkscape. If you want to scale the width of contours and B\u00e9zier-curves with the rest of the shapes, select those objects and left-click Path -> \"Convert object to path\". Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform... ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[M]). If you want to keep the aspect ratio, activate the option \"Scale proportionally\". Set the scaling factor in percent (or change % to mm and set the desired Width (and Hight) in mm). Then left-click Apply. Continue with steps 12-16 of the previous section . This article was written by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"Pattern Creation"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#pattern-creation","text":"You can use free open source software to design patterns. Create an image with a width of 200 pixels or less with indexed colors. For two color knitwork, make the image monochromatic: black and white (1 bit) with each pixel representing a stitch. Save it in the PNG file format. The following instructions show how to achieve this using GIMP and how to benefit from the vector graphics program Inkscape to create scalable patterns.","title":"Pattern creation"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#using-gimp-to-create-patterns-and-save-as-png-file","text":"Download GIMP 2.10.10 (or newer) from the GIMP homepage and install it. Run GIMP. In GIMP, left-click File -> New. Select the desired hight and width in pixels (= number of rows and stitches per row, respectively), then left-click \"OK\". See below to learn how to compensate for elongation of the resulting fabric. In GIMP, left-click Image -> Modus -> Indexed. In the dialog that pops up, select \"black/white (1bit)\" for textiles with two colors. Select the pencil tool (hotkey: N). Set the pencil tool settings to Size = 1.00 (1x1 pixel), Hardness = 100, keep other tool options at default settings (Dynamics Off). Keep default foreground color (black) and background color (white). Optionally show grid: Left-click View -> Show Grid. Then, left-click Image -> Configure Grid. Set Spacing:Horizontal = 1.00 pixels and Spacing:Vertical = 1.00 pixels. Left-click \"OK\". Draw the pattern (Zoom in using View -> Zoom to see individual pixels): so that background color is represented by white pixels and contrast color (foreground) is represented by black pixels. In GIMP, left-click File -> \"Export as\". In the \"Export Image\" dialog that pops up, type in a file name and select the target directory, then left-click \"Select File Type (By Extension)\" -> \"PNG (.PNG)\", then left-click \"Export\". In the \"Export as PNG\" dialog that pops up, you can keep Compression level = 9 and optionally deselect all other options, then left-click \"Export\" at the bottom of that dialog. You can close GIMP now.","title":"Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#how-to-determine-your-gauge-and-compensate-for-elongation","text":"If you want to create fabrics with exact dimensions and compensate for the fact that stitches are usually wider than high, you must first determine your gauge: Choose your yarn and make a gauge swatch with it on your knitting machine (a small test fabric produced with the same settings as used for the final product). Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm). If the desired width (W) and height (H) of the fabric or shape you want to create is given, calculate the required number of stitches (s) according to formula 1): s = x * W , and calculate the required number of rows (r) according to the following formula 2): r = y * H . Otherwise, if the desired number of stitches per row (s) and the desired resulting aspect ratio [W:H] of the fabric or shape is given, use the following formula 3): r = s * y / (x * [W:H]) .","title":"How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#creating-scalable-patterns-with-inkscape","text":"To create patterns that can be scaled with optimal quality, design them in a vector graphics program. The following instructions use Inkscape which is open source. A video tutorial that also explains how to fill shapes with a repetitive pattern and how to adjust the pattern fill according to your gauge can be found in a post on the blog by DerAndere . Here are the basic steps:","title":"Creating scalable patterns with Inkscape"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#inkscape-step-by-step","text":"Download Inkscape 0.92 (or newer) for free from the Inkscape homepage and install it. Run Inkscape, left-click \"View\" and activate the option \"page grid\". Left-click File -> Document properties. In the dialog that pops up, Set user-defined hight and width of the document in mm, so that the document is about twice as big as the desired size of the textile to be designed. Left-click the tab \"grid\" and set grid units to mm. Then set \"spacing X\" = 1 and \"spacing Y\" = 1. Close the dialog. Left-click on the tool \"Create rectangle and squares\" tool (hotkey: F4) in the left toolbar and draw. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your rectangle and adjust it using the tool controls that appear in the toolbar at the top. The width and hight in mm of that rectangle should equal exactly the desired width (W) and hight (H) of the fabric part you want to produce. Left-click \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) -> Fill -> \"Solid color\". Set the value RGBA = ffffffff (white). Left-click the tab \"Stroke color\" and set it to \"No color\". Left-click on one of the drawing tools in the left toolbar and draw a shape of the desired size inside the existing (invisible) rectangle from step 4-6. For B\u00e9zier-curves, the drawing mode has to be selected from the toolbar at the top before drawing and double-click or pressing the [enter] key ends drawing. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your second shape and adjust it using the tool controls or by dragging the handles of the shape with the mouse. Left-click Object -> \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) and set stroke color and/or fill color to \"No color\", RGBA = ffffffff (white) or RGBA = 000000ff (black). Left-click File -> \"Save as...\" and choose a destination and file name. It is recommended to indicate the part size in the file name. Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm) as described above . Use the select-tool, select all objects including the background rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform..... Left-click the tab \"Scale\". Change % to mm, verify that the option \"proportional scaling\" is disabled and set Hight to the new hight h: h = H * y / x . Here, H is the desired fabric hight in mm. Left-click Apply. Calculate the required stitches per row (s) for your textile using formula 1): s = x * W . Here, x is again the number of stitches per mm, W is the desired fabric width (see step 5) in mm. Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle and left-click File -> \"Export as PNG\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[E]). Left-click the tab \"Selection\" and set unit to px. Set Image size:Width to the value of s (required stitches per row). Left-click \"Export as\", set the target path, type in a file name that indicates the part size and gauge and left-click \"Export\". It is recommended to undo step 12 by going to Edit -> Undo ([Ctrl]+[Z]) before making further adjustments to the design inside Inkscape. Optionally, open the exported PNG in GIMP 2.10 (or newer) and increase contrast by left-clicking Colors -> Levels and adjusting the Input min and max value (black triangle: set black point, white triangle: set white point). Left-click OK. Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed -> black/white (1bit). Then edit the pattern using the pencil tool and export as PNG as described in the previous section .","title":"Inkscape step by step"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#using-inkscape-to-scale-patterns-for-creation-of-differently-sized-textiles","text":"If you have a pattern saved as SVG file and you want to change the resulting fabric size, you can scale it using Inkscape:","title":"Using Inkscape to scale patterns for creation of differently sized textiles"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#scaling-step-by-step","text":"Open the SVG file in Inkscape. If you want to scale the width of contours and B\u00e9zier-curves with the rest of the shapes, select those objects and left-click Path -> \"Convert object to path\". Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform... ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[M]). If you want to keep the aspect ratio, activate the option \"Scale proportionally\". Set the scaling factor in percent (or change % to mm and set the desired Width (and Hight) in mm). Then left-click Apply. Continue with steps 12-16 of the previous section . This article was written by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"Scaling step by step"},{"location":"development/connectors/","text":"KH-910 Internal Connectors Pin Color Description S1 1 orange 16 V 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V S2 1 green 16 V 2 blue 16V 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid 9 solenoid 10 solenoid S3 1 solenoid 2 solenoid 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid S5 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 - - 4 red V2 - Needle counter (right fast) 5 blue V1 - Needle counter (right slow) 6 green Belt shift signal 7 yellow GND (?) 8 black Hall sensor right 9 red Scanner clock 10 blue Scanner color (high: black, low: white) S7 1 red Hall sensor left 2 black GND 3 white 5 V KH-930 Internal Connectors Pin Color Description S1 1 orange >12 V (V_solenoid) 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V (V_logic) 5 blue >10 V (V_help) S2 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor left (EOL_left) S3 1 white V_logic 2 grey GND 3 brown V1 4 blue V2 5 green Belt shift signal S4 1 solenoid F 2 solenoid E 3 solenoid D 4 solenoid C 5 solenoid B 6 solenoid A 7 solenoid 9 8 solenoid 8 S5 1 solenoid 7 2 solenoid 6 3 solenoid 5 4 solenoid 4 5 solenoid 3 6 solenoid 2 7 solenoid 1 8 solenoid 0 9 V_solenoid 10 V_solenoid S6 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor right (EOL_right)","title":"Connectors"},{"location":"development/connectors/#kh-910-internal-connectors","text":"Pin Color Description S1 1 orange 16 V 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V S2 1 green 16 V 2 blue 16V 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid 9 solenoid 10 solenoid S3 1 solenoid 2 solenoid 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid S5 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 - - 4 red V2 - Needle counter (right fast) 5 blue V1 - Needle counter (right slow) 6 green Belt shift signal 7 yellow GND (?) 8 black Hall sensor right 9 red Scanner clock 10 blue Scanner color (high: black, low: white) S7 1 red Hall sensor left 2 black GND 3 white 5 V","title":"KH-910 Internal Connectors"},{"location":"development/connectors/#kh-930-internal-connectors","text":"Pin Color Description S1 1 orange >12 V (V_solenoid) 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V (V_logic) 5 blue >10 V (V_help) S2 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor left (EOL_left) S3 1 white V_logic 2 grey GND 3 brown V1 4 blue V2 5 green Belt shift signal S4 1 solenoid F 2 solenoid E 3 solenoid D 4 solenoid C 5 solenoid B 6 solenoid A 7 solenoid 9 8 solenoid 8 S5 1 solenoid 7 2 solenoid 6 3 solenoid 5 4 solenoid 4 5 solenoid 3 6 solenoid 2 7 solenoid 1 8 solenoid 0 9 V_solenoid 10 V_solenoid S6 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor right (EOL_right)","title":"KH-930 Internal Connectors"},{"location":"how_to_knit/basics/","text":"Single Bed Fair Isle To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual . For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9, find it on your computer in the folder [path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/ Cast on using needles Left30 - Right30 and knit a few rows of stockinette, ending on the left (KH910 manual, pp. 10-15, 18-21). Position the carriage so that the magnet on the center back of the carriage is outside the left turn mark. Run the AYAB software. In AYAB, left-click \"Load pattern\" and browse for the image triangles_60x10.png that is located in [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. (If you want to knit a different pattern, choose a black/white raster image, preferrably in .PNG file format. It must be at least as wide as the needles you are using) In the AYAB software, leave all the settings as they are: Single Bed, Color 2, Start Row 1, Start Needle 30, Stop Needle 30, Alignment Center. Click Configure, wait a moment. Click Knit. Wait until it says \"Please init machine\" Set the KC change knob to KC1 or KC2. Move the carriage so the magnet on the back of the carriage crosses the left turn mark, and STOP. IMPORTANT!!! Wait 2 or 3 seconds, there will be a \"triple-beep\" Continue across the row. After you pass the end of the selected needles, it should beep. Our pattern has some black squares in row 1, you can see that they have been selected forward to D position. If you are \"air-knitting\" (no yarn) you can just continue passing the carriage back and forth from here. To set up for Fair Isle: Stop when the carriage is on the right at the end of the first row. Press the top half of the center button on the front of the carriage (or the whole center button (\"MC\") if yours is all one piece, see KH910 manual, p.42) Thread the second yarn into feeder B, and hold the loose end of the yarn for the first few stitches (KH910 manual, p.42). Knit back and forth. There's a beep at the end of each row. Note: As of AYAB v0.95 the beep happens right as you finish the row; earlier documentation mentions waiting for the beep because it used to have a longer delay. Now you do not need to wait, just turn around smoothly. You can watch the row numbers count up in the software. At Row 10, you'll see \"Image Transmission finished.\" Knit until the long beep, then stop and look at the needles. Notice that it has selected the needles for row 10, but we haven't knitted them yet. So knit one more pass from left to right. Now we have really finished, all needles are at B. Set the KC knob to NL, unthread the contrast color and knit a few rows of white (KH910 manual, p.43). Binding off is described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual. This article was written by Adrienne and modified by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"Basics"},{"location":"how_to_knit/basics/#single-bed-fair-isle","text":"To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual . For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9, find it on your computer in the folder [path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/ Cast on using needles Left30 - Right30 and knit a few rows of stockinette, ending on the left (KH910 manual, pp. 10-15, 18-21). Position the carriage so that the magnet on the center back of the carriage is outside the left turn mark. Run the AYAB software. In AYAB, left-click \"Load pattern\" and browse for the image triangles_60x10.png that is located in [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. (If you want to knit a different pattern, choose a black/white raster image, preferrably in .PNG file format. It must be at least as wide as the needles you are using) In the AYAB software, leave all the settings as they are: Single Bed, Color 2, Start Row 1, Start Needle 30, Stop Needle 30, Alignment Center. Click Configure, wait a moment. Click Knit. Wait until it says \"Please init machine\" Set the KC change knob to KC1 or KC2. Move the carriage so the magnet on the back of the carriage crosses the left turn mark, and STOP. IMPORTANT!!! Wait 2 or 3 seconds, there will be a \"triple-beep\" Continue across the row. After you pass the end of the selected needles, it should beep. Our pattern has some black squares in row 1, you can see that they have been selected forward to D position. If you are \"air-knitting\" (no yarn) you can just continue passing the carriage back and forth from here.","title":"Single Bed Fair Isle"},{"location":"how_to_knit/basics/#to-set-up-for-fair-isle","text":"Stop when the carriage is on the right at the end of the first row. Press the top half of the center button on the front of the carriage (or the whole center button (\"MC\") if yours is all one piece, see KH910 manual, p.42) Thread the second yarn into feeder B, and hold the loose end of the yarn for the first few stitches (KH910 manual, p.42). Knit back and forth. There's a beep at the end of each row. Note: As of AYAB v0.95 the beep happens right as you finish the row; earlier documentation mentions waiting for the beep because it used to have a longer delay. Now you do not need to wait, just turn around smoothly. You can watch the row numbers count up in the software. At Row 10, you'll see \"Image Transmission finished.\" Knit until the long beep, then stop and look at the needles. Notice that it has selected the needles for row 10, but we haven't knitted them yet. So knit one more pass from left to right. Now we have really finished, all needles are at B. Set the KC knob to NL, unthread the contrast color and knit a few rows of white (KH910 manual, p.43). Binding off is described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual. This article was written by Adrienne and modified by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"To set up for Fair Isle:"},{"location":"how_to_knit/circular_knitting/","text":"A full tutorial for circular. Comments and corrections welcome. And thanks to Cindy for suggesting this feature in the first place. I\u2019m using AYAB v0.9, this was also available in 0.8. (First draft Sept 26, 2017, minor edits Nov 9, 2017) The Circular technique is knitted in a very similar way to 2-color DBJ (Double Bed Jacquard, AYAB\u2019s \u201cRibber\u201d setting,) but Circular makes a 2-color stockinette tube. The Circular feature is the closest we can come to circular fair-isle on a Brother machine. It helps to already be familiar with the standard ribber cast-on and with 2-color DBJ before attempting Circular. This tutorial is very detailed but most of it is the casting on and setting up; the actual circular part consists of four passes of the carriage with two changes of color. Steps 11 - 14 are the AYAB setup, and 15 - 20 are the actual knitting. For our first time through we will make one-row stripes on the ribber, there will be two rows on the ribber for every one completed row on the main bed. So the ribber side ends up twice as long as the patterned side knitted on the main bed, making a rather oddly shaped tube. This sample is a 64 stitch circle, L16-R16 on each bed. Stitch Size of T6/5 (Main 6, Ribber 5) is about right as a sample for a possible sock in Sock-Ease yarn from Lion Brand. Or try going a bit tighter on the ribber to get a more balanced tube. Steps 2 - 6 are a standard circular cast-on, with a small variation from the settings described in the manual Choose a fair-isle pattern. It must have short floats, especially near the edges of the width you plan to use. And no rows that are entirely either color, which would be a whole-row float. My sample is StitchWorld #27, you can download and use this file. Install your ribber and color changer. Set the connected carriages on the right. Rack the ribber to its central position, (5) and set the P-H to H. All settings on both carriages to normal, see p30 of the KR850 manual. Thread the white yarn on the left side of the mast, black on the right. Thread the black into button 1 of the CC, and anchor it underneath. No buttons selected on the color changer yet. Take the white yarn behind the black and over to the carriage to start the cast on from the right. Select needles L16 - R16 on both beds, and cast on for circular. Follow page 30 in the 850 manual, EXCEPT, after the zigzag row set just the RIGHT Part button on the main bed, and on the ribber set the LEFT slider up to P.R. and the right one down on N. Middle slider down. Side levers up, bottom slider on I. Both lili buttons to normal. Set the Stitch Sizes, try 6 on the main bed and 5 on the ribber. (Use ravel cord for the initial zigzag if you want an open tube, or you can just snip the cast-on later.) Knit the zigzag row, hang the cast-on comb and one or two ribber weights. Set P-H to P. Leave the rest of the settings the same as the cast on. Knit a few rows of plain circular, about 12 passes (6 circular rounds) in white ending COL (Carriage on Left). Press button 2 on the CC so it is open to catch the white yarn, and put the carriage all the way out on the left into the color changer. The carriage waits here while we do the pattern setup. Main carriage: KC knob to KC2, both Part buttons in. Ribber carriage: No changes. Check that the left slider is up (P.R, or Part) right slider down (N, knit) Row counter = 000 In AYAB: open the image, which must be at least as wide as the main bed needles you are using. Set the start/stop needles to the width you are knitting on the main bed, 16 and 16 in our example (or one or two wider, just be sure the settings are not narrower than your actual needles); 2 colors; start at row 1 (usually); Infinite Repeat; Circular; Center. Click Configure, then Knit. Press Color Changer button 1 to select black. Move the carriage out of the color changer and over the left turn mark. Stop and wait for the triple beep. And check that only the black yarn was selected. Knit across, left - right, wait for the beep. Knit across, right - left and all the way into the color changer, the beep should happen as you do so. Press CC button 2, for white. Knit across, left - right, wait for the beep. Knit across, right - left and into the color changer, the beep should happen as you do so. Press CC button 1, for black. Repeat steps 16 - 21 for the rest of the project. For this sample do about 20 rows (80 passes.) See the note below about hanging extra weights on the ribber\u2019s knitting. To finish the sample, cancel the main carriage settings from step 7. Set to standard circular (KC button at NL, right part button pushed in on main carriage, left slider up at P.R. on the ribber as before, no lili) and knit about 12 passes (6 rounds) in just one color. Bind off if you like, or just cut the yarn, hold onto the comb below and take the carriage across and back to let the knitting drop off. Notes: The left-right rows knit on the ribber and select on the main bed. The right-left rows knit on the main bed leaving all needles in B afterwards, and slip (nothing knits) on the ribber. Don\u2019t try to knit too fast. On the right you need to wait for the beep, and on the left give it time to take up the slack yarn as you approach the knitting. Also gives you time to check that the new yarn is correctly in the feeder. Watch the row numbers in AYAB as you knit. Note that 4 passes make 1 row; the row counter will say 4 when AYAB has just switched up from 1 and is starting the sequence of four passes for row 2. (AYAB v0.8 numbered the rows differently.) As always with ribber work, stop with the carriage on the right after about 5 full rows (20 passes) to check: unhook the starting ends of the yarn make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell if a loop is caught around a gate peg. hang the \u201csevens\u201d wires and weights if the edge stitches are having trouble knitting off. you generally don\u2019t need the fine knit bar for circular knitting. IMPORTANT: hang some claw weights on the ribber side of the knitting, nearest to you. Make sure they hook into just the ribber-side layer of the knitting. This is because the ribber side is growing faster and its stitches need extra weight to stay on the needles. Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the work on the side away from you, and stripes on the side facing you. Look at your sample. Note that the striped back is twice as long as the front. Further instructions soon for a way to prevent that and make a balanced tube. And I think I just found a use for the unbalanced tube, and developed a new way to do socks! The heel and foot are seamless fair-isle-in-the-round. No short rows. Here\u2019s the first prototype, the only seam (up the back of the leg) isn\u2019t sewn yet. Full tutorial coming soon. This article is copied from ravelry . Thanks, Adrienne! Feel free to improve it!","title":"Circular Knitting"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/","text":"Introduction Instructions for 2-color Double Bed Jacquard (AYAB's \"Ribber\" setting.) Double bed jacquard (DBJ) as described here (Rib Jacquard with birds-eye backing) is known in Brother manuals as Multi-Colour Rib. See pages 38-39 of the KR850 ribber manual (the penguins) and page 11 of the manual for the KRC-900 color changer . You can make other DBJ variants, too (see end of this page). Note that DBJ in 3 or more colors has some differences, though the basic instructions are the same. Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual and on page 1 of the KR850 manual, respectively. Smiley was made from this image: AYAB takes care of the colors for you, you just give it a black-and-white pattern as if you are going to do single bed Fair Isle. This tutorial refers to the foreground color as black, and the background color as white. To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Use thin yarns, you'll be using side-by-side needles on both beds. (For those in the US, Woollike yarn works well.) For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9 (or newer), find it in the folder [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. which looks like this: The useful thing about this Triangles pattern is that row 1 selects 1 black needle per triangle, row 2 selects groups of 2, row 3 groups of 3 etc. If you watch the needle selection carefully you'll start to understand what it's doing. Instructions Set up the ribber (KR850 manual, pages 3-7) Set up the color changer (KHR900 manual, pages 2-4) with the black yarn (foreground color); the white slot (background color) is open ready to accept the yarn after the cast on. You might need the fine knit bar. Try it if your stitches sometimes tuck instead of knitting off. On the ribber, set half-pitch lever to H (P-H lever=H, see KR850 manual, page 13), On the ribber, set racking grip handle to 5 (Rack=5, KR850 manual p.13) set bracket lever to the normal (highest) position (KR850 manual, p.14) Needles L30-R30 on both beds for our first Triangles sample Make sure you have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Cast on in white in FNR (Full Needle Rib) as shown on pages 26-28 of the KR850 manual. Knit one or two rows of FNR. Carriage on left, outside the left turn mark. Set the row counter, RC=000 Set up the carriages as shown on page 39 of the KR850 manual: Page 39.png Main bed: Both part buttons in; KC1 or KC2. I usually use KC2 rather than KC1. Ribber: Both sliders (cam levers) up. Both lili buttons to lili. Lower slide lever to lili (center). Stitch Size depends on your yarn. Try 4/4. In the AYAB software, left-click \"Load pattern\" and select the image triangles_60x10.png. (For other patterns, choose a monochrome image that is at least as wide as the needles you are using) Set AYAB to 2-color, start at row 1, Infinite Repeat, start/stop needles 30/30, Ribber (\"Ribber: Classic\" for AYAB v0.95), Center. Press Configure. Press Knit. Press the color changer button for the black yarn. Bring the carriage out past the turn mark and stop to wait for the triple-beep as usual, just on this first row. Also check that the white yarn is in the feeder, and if this is its first row, check that the yarn end is hanging straight down and isn't caught anywhere. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to black. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to white. That's it, repeat: Knit across, knit back, change color. After the first set AYAB will have counted up two rows and be starting row 3, the row counter will show 4 passes. After about 10 rows (20 passes), stop with the carriage on the right and check: Let the starting ends of the yarn hang free. Make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath. Feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell if a loop is caught around a gate peg. Hang edge weights if you are having trouble knitting off the edge stitches. Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the work on the side away from you, and birds-eye stripes on the side facing you. For finalizing the knit, you may want to add 1-2 rows of FNR (KR850 manual, p. 28). Binding off (casting off) is described on page 53 of the KR850 manual or in this video on Youtube: Double Bed Bind-Off Video ) Any bind off that requires latching stitches through each other requires the last row before chaining stitches to be knit looser than previous ones (see below) An alternative method (\"Das Abketten II\") is translated as follows: Transfer all stitches to the rear needle bed [to the needle bed of the KH 910 (KR850 manual, p.52)] and immediately set the empty needles of the KR 850 ribber back to the B-position. At the K carriage of the KH 910, set the tension dial 4 steps higher [to 7]. The tension dial of the KR 850 ribber carriage remains unchanged. Move the carriage from left to right. On the needles of the KR 850 ribber, stitches have formed around the previously empty needles. Disconnect the carriages [(KR850 manual, p. 15)] and move the KR 850 ribber carriage from right to left. Thereby, the stitches are removed from the needles of the KR 850 ribber. Now, lower the KR 850 ribber [to the lowest position (KR850 manual, p. 14)]. This has created the elongated stitches that may again be chained through each other: Set the needles of the KH 910 needle bed to the E-position. Remove the weights and the comb, then proceed by binding off as described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual. More description on how 2-color DBJ works In our Triangles sample with Infinite Repeat on, let's stop and observe, with the carriage on the left at the beginning of row 1 of its cycle of ten rows. We have just changed to the white yarn ready for the next row 1 as displayed in AYAB. Remember that AYAB's row numbering focuses on what's being selected not what's being knitted. Notice that what's selected now is the last set of 10 white needles to complete the previous triangle. Knit across from left-right. It has completed knitting the previous triangle, and has selected sets of 9 needles to do the background for the points of the next row of triangles. Knit across right-left and change color to black. Stop again and observe before you knit the row. It has just knitted the sets of 9 white stitches, and selected the single black stitches that go in between them, forming the points of the row of triangles. The sequence of 4 passes for two rows is: Pass 1: White yarn, knit whatever it was given by the last selection of the previous set. Select for the white stitches for row 1 of this set of two rows. Pass 2: White yarn, knit the first white stitches, select for the black stitches that will go in between the white stitches we just knitted, also for row 1 of this set. Change color to black. Pass 3: Black yarn, knit the selected needles to complete row 1, select for the black stitches of row 2 of this set. Pass 4: Black yarn, knit the selected needles, select for the white stitches of row 2 of this set. Change color to white. Notice that the selection is an \"ABBA\" sequence. White, black, black, white; repeat. Each set of four passes does the selections for two rows of the pattern. But the set is not completely self-contained, its first pass completes the knitting of the previous set, and its fourth pass does a selection which will be knitted in the first pass of the next set of four passes. You'll see discussions about Brother 2-color DBJ needing to start by selecting from the right, so how does that square with AYAB always starting from the left? I think it's just an alternative way of thinking about how 2-color DBJ works. In the AYAB context where everything starts from the left, each set of 4 passes has provided the selection for the next set during its last right-left pass. So in a sense the first selection of the set did start on the right; in AYAB that is counted as the last pass of the previous set. Further observations Color changers are not 100% reliable, though there are adjustments you can make. Occasionally it will grab both yarns or neither, and disaster ensues. Use the slower rhythm enforced by AYAB to take a look at the yarn in the feeder every time as it come out of the color changer. You may be able to stop in time to fix it. The tutorial describes the instructions for knitting the background color first. Starting in version 1.0.0, AYAB chooses the most common color in the image as the background color. You might be wondering what happens on the very first pass. There's nothing pre-selected on the main bed, so it only knits on the ribber (alternating needles because of the lili settings) while selecting for the first white pattern stitches. Technically I think that means that there's an extra ribber row at the beginning, but it gets absorbed into the backing pattern and is not noticeable. In subsequent first passes of the cycle of 4 passes/2 rows, it has been provided with selected needles to knit in white. How do you end your pattern on exactly the right row at the end of a repeat? In Infinite Repeat you'll need to do one or two passes of the next cycle, but cancelling any selection on the second pass. In non-repeating, the long beep sounds after it has selected for the last row. Knit one or two more passes. When using the lili settings, you must have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Take a look at the sides of your sample, do you want to have the edge stitch always on the main bed? (Optional, but may look better) To keep an even number on the ribber, your main bed will need on odd number of stitches. Doing some FNR after the cast-on and before starting the pattern can make a wavy edge. With careful management, it's possible to use the last circular row of your cast-on as the first (setup) row of your pattern. Sometimes you want DBJ all in one color. Just make an image that's all white or all black, no color-changing needed. Some of Brother's DBJ instructions claim that the extra \"latch plate\" to add to the ribber connector arm is required. See page 49 of the 930/940 manual. Not so, it's optional. In fact when I tried it it seemed to make things worse, the color change was less reliable. (Latch plate is misspelled as Clatch Plate in the 930/940 manual.) Alternative Jacquard variants with AYAB Different variants of DBJ exist. A selection of carriage settings that can easily be used with the AYAB hack is provided in table 1 and table 2 below. More variants that require different degrees of hand manipulation are described together with fabric properties in a blog post by Alessandrina . Table 1: Carriage settings for a selection of different DBJ variants. Adapted from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever striper (double) striper (half) tucked half Milano KH carriage ... ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Tuck R, Part L Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KCI KR carriage ... ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N N Holding Cam Lever R N N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 0 Cam Lever L N N N Cam Lever R N P.R. N Tucking Lever R R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. Table 2: carriage settings for DBJ with solid backing. Adapted from \"steel breeze\" (2010) and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever solid (col1)** solid (col2)** KH carriage ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KR carriage ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N Holding Cam Lever R N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 Cam Lever L P.R. N Cam Lever R P.R. N Tucking Lever R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. ** After each 2 rows, change settings and proceed with the next color. This article is copied from ravelry and modified by DerAndere . Thanks, Adrienne! Settings for alternative Jacquard variants were taken from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and a blog post by Alessandrina . Feel free to improve it!","title":"Double Bed Jaquard (2-color)"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#introduction","text":"Instructions for 2-color Double Bed Jacquard (AYAB's \"Ribber\" setting.) Double bed jacquard (DBJ) as described here (Rib Jacquard with birds-eye backing) is known in Brother manuals as Multi-Colour Rib. See pages 38-39 of the KR850 ribber manual (the penguins) and page 11 of the manual for the KRC-900 color changer . You can make other DBJ variants, too (see end of this page). Note that DBJ in 3 or more colors has some differences, though the basic instructions are the same. Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual and on page 1 of the KR850 manual, respectively. Smiley was made from this image: AYAB takes care of the colors for you, you just give it a black-and-white pattern as if you are going to do single bed Fair Isle. This tutorial refers to the foreground color as black, and the background color as white. To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Use thin yarns, you'll be using side-by-side needles on both beds. (For those in the US, Woollike yarn works well.) For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9 (or newer), find it in the folder [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. which looks like this: The useful thing about this Triangles pattern is that row 1 selects 1 black needle per triangle, row 2 selects groups of 2, row 3 groups of 3 etc. If you watch the needle selection carefully you'll start to understand what it's doing.","title":"Introduction"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#instructions","text":"Set up the ribber (KR850 manual, pages 3-7) Set up the color changer (KHR900 manual, pages 2-4) with the black yarn (foreground color); the white slot (background color) is open ready to accept the yarn after the cast on. You might need the fine knit bar. Try it if your stitches sometimes tuck instead of knitting off. On the ribber, set half-pitch lever to H (P-H lever=H, see KR850 manual, page 13), On the ribber, set racking grip handle to 5 (Rack=5, KR850 manual p.13) set bracket lever to the normal (highest) position (KR850 manual, p.14) Needles L30-R30 on both beds for our first Triangles sample Make sure you have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Cast on in white in FNR (Full Needle Rib) as shown on pages 26-28 of the KR850 manual. Knit one or two rows of FNR. Carriage on left, outside the left turn mark. Set the row counter, RC=000 Set up the carriages as shown on page 39 of the KR850 manual: Page 39.png Main bed: Both part buttons in; KC1 or KC2. I usually use KC2 rather than KC1. Ribber: Both sliders (cam levers) up. Both lili buttons to lili. Lower slide lever to lili (center). Stitch Size depends on your yarn. Try 4/4. In the AYAB software, left-click \"Load pattern\" and select the image triangles_60x10.png. (For other patterns, choose a monochrome image that is at least as wide as the needles you are using) Set AYAB to 2-color, start at row 1, Infinite Repeat, start/stop needles 30/30, Ribber (\"Ribber: Classic\" for AYAB v0.95), Center. Press Configure. Press Knit. Press the color changer button for the black yarn. Bring the carriage out past the turn mark and stop to wait for the triple-beep as usual, just on this first row. Also check that the white yarn is in the feeder, and if this is its first row, check that the yarn end is hanging straight down and isn't caught anywhere. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to black. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to white. That's it, repeat: Knit across, knit back, change color. After the first set AYAB will have counted up two rows and be starting row 3, the row counter will show 4 passes. After about 10 rows (20 passes), stop with the carriage on the right and check: Let the starting ends of the yarn hang free. Make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath. Feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell if a loop is caught around a gate peg. Hang edge weights if you are having trouble knitting off the edge stitches. Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the work on the side away from you, and birds-eye stripes on the side facing you. For finalizing the knit, you may want to add 1-2 rows of FNR (KR850 manual, p. 28). Binding off (casting off) is described on page 53 of the KR850 manual or in this video on Youtube: Double Bed Bind-Off Video ) Any bind off that requires latching stitches through each other requires the last row before chaining stitches to be knit looser than previous ones (see below) An alternative method (\"Das Abketten II\") is translated as follows: Transfer all stitches to the rear needle bed [to the needle bed of the KH 910 (KR850 manual, p.52)] and immediately set the empty needles of the KR 850 ribber back to the B-position. At the K carriage of the KH 910, set the tension dial 4 steps higher [to 7]. The tension dial of the KR 850 ribber carriage remains unchanged. Move the carriage from left to right. On the needles of the KR 850 ribber, stitches have formed around the previously empty needles. Disconnect the carriages [(KR850 manual, p. 15)] and move the KR 850 ribber carriage from right to left. Thereby, the stitches are removed from the needles of the KR 850 ribber. Now, lower the KR 850 ribber [to the lowest position (KR850 manual, p. 14)]. This has created the elongated stitches that may again be chained through each other: Set the needles of the KH 910 needle bed to the E-position. Remove the weights and the comb, then proceed by binding off as described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual.","title":"Instructions"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#more-description-on-how-2-color-dbj-works","text":"In our Triangles sample with Infinite Repeat on, let's stop and observe, with the carriage on the left at the beginning of row 1 of its cycle of ten rows. We have just changed to the white yarn ready for the next row 1 as displayed in AYAB. Remember that AYAB's row numbering focuses on what's being selected not what's being knitted. Notice that what's selected now is the last set of 10 white needles to complete the previous triangle. Knit across from left-right. It has completed knitting the previous triangle, and has selected sets of 9 needles to do the background for the points of the next row of triangles. Knit across right-left and change color to black. Stop again and observe before you knit the row. It has just knitted the sets of 9 white stitches, and selected the single black stitches that go in between them, forming the points of the row of triangles. The sequence of 4 passes for two rows is: Pass 1: White yarn, knit whatever it was given by the last selection of the previous set. Select for the white stitches for row 1 of this set of two rows. Pass 2: White yarn, knit the first white stitches, select for the black stitches that will go in between the white stitches we just knitted, also for row 1 of this set. Change color to black. Pass 3: Black yarn, knit the selected needles to complete row 1, select for the black stitches of row 2 of this set. Pass 4: Black yarn, knit the selected needles, select for the white stitches of row 2 of this set. Change color to white. Notice that the selection is an \"ABBA\" sequence. White, black, black, white; repeat. Each set of four passes does the selections for two rows of the pattern. But the set is not completely self-contained, its first pass completes the knitting of the previous set, and its fourth pass does a selection which will be knitted in the first pass of the next set of four passes. You'll see discussions about Brother 2-color DBJ needing to start by selecting from the right, so how does that square with AYAB always starting from the left? I think it's just an alternative way of thinking about how 2-color DBJ works. In the AYAB context where everything starts from the left, each set of 4 passes has provided the selection for the next set during its last right-left pass. So in a sense the first selection of the set did start on the right; in AYAB that is counted as the last pass of the previous set.","title":"More description on how 2-color DBJ works"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#further-observations","text":"Color changers are not 100% reliable, though there are adjustments you can make. Occasionally it will grab both yarns or neither, and disaster ensues. Use the slower rhythm enforced by AYAB to take a look at the yarn in the feeder every time as it come out of the color changer. You may be able to stop in time to fix it. The tutorial describes the instructions for knitting the background color first. Starting in version 1.0.0, AYAB chooses the most common color in the image as the background color. You might be wondering what happens on the very first pass. There's nothing pre-selected on the main bed, so it only knits on the ribber (alternating needles because of the lili settings) while selecting for the first white pattern stitches. Technically I think that means that there's an extra ribber row at the beginning, but it gets absorbed into the backing pattern and is not noticeable. In subsequent first passes of the cycle of 4 passes/2 rows, it has been provided with selected needles to knit in white. How do you end your pattern on exactly the right row at the end of a repeat? In Infinite Repeat you'll need to do one or two passes of the next cycle, but cancelling any selection on the second pass. In non-repeating, the long beep sounds after it has selected for the last row. Knit one or two more passes. When using the lili settings, you must have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Take a look at the sides of your sample, do you want to have the edge stitch always on the main bed? (Optional, but may look better) To keep an even number on the ribber, your main bed will need on odd number of stitches. Doing some FNR after the cast-on and before starting the pattern can make a wavy edge. With careful management, it's possible to use the last circular row of your cast-on as the first (setup) row of your pattern. Sometimes you want DBJ all in one color. Just make an image that's all white or all black, no color-changing needed. Some of Brother's DBJ instructions claim that the extra \"latch plate\" to add to the ribber connector arm is required. See page 49 of the 930/940 manual. Not so, it's optional. In fact when I tried it it seemed to make things worse, the color change was less reliable. (Latch plate is misspelled as Clatch Plate in the 930/940 manual.)","title":"Further observations"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#alternative-jacquard-variants-with-ayab","text":"Different variants of DBJ exist. A selection of carriage settings that can easily be used with the AYAB hack is provided in table 1 and table 2 below. More variants that require different degrees of hand manipulation are described together with fabric properties in a blog post by Alessandrina . Table 1: Carriage settings for a selection of different DBJ variants. Adapted from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever striper (double) striper (half) tucked half Milano KH carriage ... ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Tuck R, Part L Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KCI KR carriage ... ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N N Holding Cam Lever R N N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 0 Cam Lever L N N N Cam Lever R N P.R. N Tucking Lever R R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. Table 2: carriage settings for DBJ with solid backing. Adapted from \"steel breeze\" (2010) and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever solid (col1)** solid (col2)** KH carriage ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KR carriage ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N Holding Cam Lever R N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 Cam Lever L P.R. N Cam Lever R P.R. N Tucking Lever R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. ** After each 2 rows, change settings and proceed with the next color. This article is copied from ravelry and modified by DerAndere . Thanks, Adrienne! Settings for alternative Jacquard variants were taken from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and a blog post by Alessandrina . Feel free to improve it!","title":"Alternative Jacquard variants with AYAB"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_heart-of-pluto/","text":"Sorry :( No content yet, we are still working on it!","title":"Heart of Pluto"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/","text":"Cast on Thread your machine (including 4 color changer) Thread everything except your white yarn through tension mast and color changer. Use fine knitting bar if available Set needles up for full needle rib Every needle selected Pitch lever set to half Even number of needles on ribber An extra needle on each side of ribber if available Main carriage settings Set knob to N-L Set an appropriate tension (lower than tension setting for knitting) No buttons depressed Ribber carriage settings II, no lili, N, N, R, N, N, no lili - read clockwise from roman numeral II near the bottom (pardon the bizzare highlighting, settings weren't visible in picture) same tension as main carriage While holding yarn under the machine pass carriage from right to left this will form a \"zig-zag\" row. If your last few stitches are tighter than the rest pull the needles back until they match the rest. Hang cast on comb and plenty of weights Remove wire from comb Bring comb upwards between the beds and stick \"pins\" of comb up between the zig-zag Reinsert wire and let comb drop to let the wire rest on the zig-zag Hang weights - DBJ is usually more successful with a hefty amount of weight. Put the hooks of the weights through the holes on the bottom of the cast-on comb. Drop extra stitches from ribber if you used them - they're only to help you get the edge stitches through the comb more neatly. Set main carriage to part right and ribber to part left by depressing the part :arrow_forward: button on main carriage and moving the slider on the left side of the ribber carriage from N to P*R Dial up tension Make 2 passes ending up with carriage on the left of the machine. This will make 1 round of circular knitting. Cast-on complete! Set carriages for pattern knitting Make sure carriage is fully on the left of the machine even if size of knitting is smaller. Main carriage settings Knob to KC-I OR KC-II (I usually use KC-II) Depress both part :arrow_backward: and part :arrow_forward: buttons Ribber carriage settings Both knobs to lili Both sliders to P initialize ayab (can do earlier, I prefer to wait until my cast on is complete) Begin Pattern Knitting You'll be knitting colors from white pixels to black pixels and back. So the color order will be 1 - 2 - 3 - 2 or White - Gray - Black - Gray While your yarn colors may not match the pixels I'll refer to them as if they do. On your first pass bring the carriage up to the knitting slowly until the magnet on the back aligns with the sensor on the machine and you hear the double beep. With the white yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the black yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage repeat steps 1-4 until piece is complete Bind-Off There are many ways to bind off but this is a good standard method Double Bed Bind-Off Video","title":"Middle-Color-Twice"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#cast-on","text":"Thread your machine (including 4 color changer) Thread everything except your white yarn through tension mast and color changer. Use fine knitting bar if available Set needles up for full needle rib Every needle selected Pitch lever set to half Even number of needles on ribber An extra needle on each side of ribber if available Main carriage settings Set knob to N-L Set an appropriate tension (lower than tension setting for knitting) No buttons depressed Ribber carriage settings II, no lili, N, N, R, N, N, no lili - read clockwise from roman numeral II near the bottom (pardon the bizzare highlighting, settings weren't visible in picture) same tension as main carriage While holding yarn under the machine pass carriage from right to left this will form a \"zig-zag\" row. If your last few stitches are tighter than the rest pull the needles back until they match the rest. Hang cast on comb and plenty of weights Remove wire from comb Bring comb upwards between the beds and stick \"pins\" of comb up between the zig-zag Reinsert wire and let comb drop to let the wire rest on the zig-zag Hang weights - DBJ is usually more successful with a hefty amount of weight. Put the hooks of the weights through the holes on the bottom of the cast-on comb. Drop extra stitches from ribber if you used them - they're only to help you get the edge stitches through the comb more neatly. Set main carriage to part right and ribber to part left by depressing the part :arrow_forward: button on main carriage and moving the slider on the left side of the ribber carriage from N to P*R Dial up tension Make 2 passes ending up with carriage on the left of the machine. This will make 1 round of circular knitting. Cast-on complete!","title":"Cast on"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#set-carriages-for-pattern-knitting","text":"Make sure carriage is fully on the left of the machine even if size of knitting is smaller. Main carriage settings Knob to KC-I OR KC-II (I usually use KC-II) Depress both part :arrow_backward: and part :arrow_forward: buttons Ribber carriage settings Both knobs to lili Both sliders to P initialize ayab (can do earlier, I prefer to wait until my cast on is complete)","title":"Set carriages for pattern knitting"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#begin-pattern-knitting","text":"You'll be knitting colors from white pixels to black pixels and back. So the color order will be 1 - 2 - 3 - 2 or White - Gray - Black - Gray While your yarn colors may not match the pixels I'll refer to them as if they do. On your first pass bring the carriage up to the knitting slowly until the magnet on the back aligns with the sensor on the machine and you hear the double beep. With the white yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the black yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage repeat steps 1-4 until piece is complete","title":"Begin Pattern Knitting"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#bind-off","text":"There are many ways to bind off but this is a good standard method Double Bed Bind-Off Video","title":"Bind-Off"},{"location":"installation/hardware/","text":"Hardware install AYAB hardware comes in two versions, known as the shield and interface versions. Electronically they are the same, except that they use different flavors of the Arduino chip, so they need different drivers. The Arduino is soldered onto the interface, in the shield version it's a separate board that sits underneath. The Arduino itself is powered from the USB cable. For the power connection to the machine's patterning mechanism, follow the installation instructions that came with your hardware. See also: https://vimeo.com/99870358 Click the CC button to see subtitles in English. And for the interface; https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/AYAB_Hardware_Installation Very Important: In the shield version, you have to isolate the USB of the Arduino from the Power Connector to prevent short circuits!! Very Important: Please use a high-quality USB cable. With some cheap cables, the computer doesn't recognize the hardware!","title":"Hardware"},{"location":"installation/hardware/#hardware-install","text":"AYAB hardware comes in two versions, known as the shield and interface versions. Electronically they are the same, except that they use different flavors of the Arduino chip, so they need different drivers. The Arduino is soldered onto the interface, in the shield version it's a separate board that sits underneath. The Arduino itself is powered from the USB cable. For the power connection to the machine's patterning mechanism, follow the installation instructions that came with your hardware. See also: https://vimeo.com/99870358 Click the CC button to see subtitles in English. And for the interface; https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/AYAB_Hardware_Installation Very Important: In the shield version, you have to isolate the USB of the Arduino from the Power Connector to prevent short circuits!! Very Important: Please use a high-quality USB cable. With some cheap cables, the computer doesn't recognize the hardware!","title":"Hardware install"},{"location":"installation/software/","text":"Linux Prerequisites You need Python 3.5 and from your package manager's repository. The other main dependencies can be found in requirements.txt For Debian/Ubuntu sudo apt-get install python3-pip python3-dev python3-virtualenv python3-gi For openSUSE sudo zypper install python3-pip python3-virtualenv python3-gi All Distributions To be able to communicate with your Arduino, it might be necessary to add the rights for USB communication by adding your user to some groups. sudo usermod -a -G tty [userName] sudo usermod -a -G dialout [userName] Installation Checkout the git repository git clone https://github.com/AllYarnsAreBeautiful/ayab-desktop Create a virtual enviroment in the cloned repository cd ayab-desktop virtualenv -p python3 --system-site-packages venv/ source venv/bin/activate pip3 install -r requirements.txt Now start ayab with python3 -m fbs run Windows Requires Windows 10 or Windows 7 The Windows setup is available at ayab-knitting.com . Run the setup, install AYAB and run it with the icon on your Desktop. Important: When choosing the installation directory, make sure that you do not overwrite any previous versions. Remove them or use another folder for installation. Currently, no spaces in the installation path are allowed. macOS Requires macOS 10.12 or newer Please make sure that you have installed the SiLabs CP210x \"VCP\" Driver - it is required for use with most new boards. Download the DMG image from ayab-knitting.com , open the DMG image and drag&drop the app to your Application folder. Then run AYAB from your Application folder. Important: In case macOS tells you the application can't be opened because it's from an unidentified developer, just Ctrl+Click it and choose \"Open\".","title":"Software"},{"location":"installation/software/#linux","text":"","title":"Linux"},{"location":"installation/software/#prerequisites","text":"You need Python 3.5 and from your package manager's repository. The other main dependencies can be found in requirements.txt For Debian/Ubuntu sudo apt-get install python3-pip python3-dev python3-virtualenv python3-gi For openSUSE sudo zypper install python3-pip python3-virtualenv python3-gi All Distributions To be able to communicate with your Arduino, it might be necessary to add the rights for USB communication by adding your user to some groups. sudo usermod -a -G tty [userName] sudo usermod -a -G dialout [userName]","title":"Prerequisites"},{"location":"installation/software/#installation","text":"Checkout the git repository git clone https://github.com/AllYarnsAreBeautiful/ayab-desktop Create a virtual enviroment in the cloned repository cd ayab-desktop virtualenv -p python3 --system-site-packages venv/ source venv/bin/activate pip3 install -r requirements.txt Now start ayab with python3 -m fbs run","title":"Installation"},{"location":"installation/software/#windows","text":"Requires Windows 10 or Windows 7 The Windows setup is available at ayab-knitting.com . Run the setup, install AYAB and run it with the icon on your Desktop. Important: When choosing the installation directory, make sure that you do not overwrite any previous versions. Remove them or use another folder for installation. Currently, no spaces in the installation path are allowed.","title":"Windows"},{"location":"installation/software/#macos","text":"Requires macOS 10.12 or newer Please make sure that you have installed the SiLabs CP210x \"VCP\" Driver - it is required for use with most new boards. Download the DMG image from ayab-knitting.com , open the DMG image and drag&drop the app to your Application folder. Then run AYAB from your Application folder. Important: In case macOS tells you the application can't be opened because it's from an unidentified developer, just Ctrl+Click it and choose \"Open\".","title":"macOS"}]} \ No newline at end of file +{"config":{"indexing":"full","lang":["en"],"min_search_length":3,"prebuild_index":false,"separator":"[\\s\\-]+"},"docs":[{"location":"","text":"Information about the AYAB project can be found at ayab-knitting.com . The code for the AYAB project is hosted on GitHub .","title":"Home"},{"location":"faq/","text":"This sections contains a list of commonly asked questions on Facebook, ravelry and so on. Sorry :( No content yet, we are still working on it!","title":"Frequently Asked Questions"},{"location":"gui/","text":"Windows Graphics Scene Knit Progress Window Status Bar / Progress Bar Load Image Button Filename Input Knit Options Port Selection Simulation Mode Settings Tab Knitting Mode Start Row Infinite Repeat Start Needle Stop Needle Alignment Mirror Image Status Tab Knit Button Cancel Button Menu File >> Quit Image Actions Invert Stretch Repeat Reflect Horizontal Flip Vertical Flip Rotate Left Rotate Right Tools >> Load AYAB Firmware Preferences Default Knitting Mode Default Infinite Repeat Default Alignment Default Mirroring Quiet Mode Language Help >> Help \u2013 About","title":"Graphical User Interface"},{"location":"gui/#windows","text":"","title":"Windows"},{"location":"gui/#graphics-scene","text":"","title":"Graphics Scene"},{"location":"gui/#knit-progress-window","text":"","title":"Knit Progress Window"},{"location":"gui/#status-bar-progress-bar","text":"","title":"Status Bar / Progress Bar"},{"location":"gui/#load-image-button","text":"","title":"Load Image Button"},{"location":"gui/#filename-input","text":"","title":"Filename Input"},{"location":"gui/#knit-options","text":"","title":"Knit Options"},{"location":"gui/#port-selection","text":"","title":"Port Selection"},{"location":"gui/#simulation-mode","text":"","title":"Simulation Mode"},{"location":"gui/#settings-tab","text":"","title":"Settings Tab"},{"location":"gui/#knitting-mode","text":"","title":"Knitting Mode"},{"location":"gui/#start-row","text":"","title":"Start Row"},{"location":"gui/#infinite-repeat","text":"","title":"Infinite Repeat"},{"location":"gui/#start-needle","text":"","title":"Start Needle"},{"location":"gui/#stop-needle","text":"","title":"Stop Needle"},{"location":"gui/#alignment","text":"","title":"Alignment"},{"location":"gui/#mirror-image","text":"","title":"Mirror Image"},{"location":"gui/#status-tab","text":"","title":"Status Tab"},{"location":"gui/#knit-button","text":"","title":"Knit Button"},{"location":"gui/#cancel-button","text":"","title":"Cancel Button"},{"location":"gui/#menu","text":"","title":"Menu"},{"location":"gui/#file-quit","text":"","title":"File >> Quit"},{"location":"gui/#image-actions","text":"","title":"Image Actions"},{"location":"gui/#invert","text":"","title":"Invert"},{"location":"gui/#stretch","text":"","title":"Stretch"},{"location":"gui/#repeat","text":"","title":"Repeat"},{"location":"gui/#reflect","text":"","title":"Reflect"},{"location":"gui/#horizontal-flip","text":"","title":"Horizontal Flip"},{"location":"gui/#vertical-flip","text":"","title":"Vertical Flip"},{"location":"gui/#rotate-left","text":"","title":"Rotate Left"},{"location":"gui/#rotate-right","text":"","title":"Rotate Right"},{"location":"gui/#tools-load-ayab-firmware","text":"","title":"Tools >> Load AYAB Firmware"},{"location":"gui/#preferences","text":"","title":"Preferences"},{"location":"gui/#default-knitting-mode","text":"","title":"Default Knitting Mode"},{"location":"gui/#default-infinite-repeat","text":"","title":"Default Infinite Repeat"},{"location":"gui/#default-alignment","text":"","title":"Default Alignment"},{"location":"gui/#default-mirroring","text":"","title":"Default Mirroring"},{"location":"gui/#quiet-mode","text":"","title":"Quiet Mode"},{"location":"gui/#language","text":"","title":"Language"},{"location":"gui/#help-help-about","text":"","title":"Help >> Help \u2013 About"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/","text":"Pattern creation Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation Creating scalable patterns with Inkscape Inkscape step by step Using Inkscape to scale patterns for creation of differently sized textiles Scaling step by step Pattern creation You can use free open source software to design patterns. Create an image with a width of 200 pixels or less with indexed colors. For two color knitwork, make the image monochromatic: black and white (1 bit) with each pixel representing a stitch. Save it in the PNG file format. The following instructions show how to achieve this using GIMP and how to benefit from the vector graphics program Inkscape to create scalable patterns. Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file Download the latest version of GIMP from the GIMP homepage and install it. Run GIMP. In GIMP, left-click File -> New. Enter the desired width and height in pixels (= number of stitches per row and number of rows, respectively), then left-click \"OK\". Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed. In the dialog that pops up, select \"Use black and white (1-bit) palette\" for textiles with two colors. Left-click Tools -> Paint Tools -> Pencil (hotkey: N). Set the pencil tool settings to Size = 1.00 (1x1 pixel), Hardness = 100, keep other tool options at default settings (Dynamics Off). Keep default foreground color (black) and background color (white). Show grid: Left-click View -> Show Grid. Configure Grid: Left-click Image -> Configure Grid. Set Spacing:Horizontal = 1.00 pixels and Spacing:Vertical = 1.00 pixels. Left-click \"OK\". Zoom in to see individual pixels. Left-click View -> Zoom -> select the percentage you want. Draw the pattern: In most cases, your background color is represented by white pixels and contrast color (foreground) is represented by black pixels. You may need to set the pencil to black. Left-click Tools -> Default colors. In case you make an error: Mouse over a white square on your image and press CTRL. Your pencil will now color any square white. Fix your error. To return to black as your foreground color, left-click Tools -> Default colors. Once you've finished your pattern, save the file in xcf format just in case you need to make modifications later. Left-click File -> Save. Type in a file name, then select the target directory. Select Save. Now save for AYAB. Left-click File -> \"Export as\". In the \"Export Image\" dialog that pops up, type in a file name and select the target directory. Next, left-click \"Select File Type (By Extension)\" -> \"PNG (.PNG)\", then left-click \"Export\". In the \"Export as PNG\" dialog that pops up, you can keep Compression level = 9 and optionally deselect all other options. Then left-click \"Export\" at the bottom of that dialog. You can close GIMP now. How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation If you want to create fabrics with exact dimensions and compensate for the fact that stitches are usually wider than high, you must first determine your gauge: Choose your yarn and make a gauge swatch with it on your knitting machine (a small test fabric produced with the same settings as used for the final product). Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm). If the desired width (W) and height (H) of the fabric or shape you want to create is given, calculate the required number of stitches (s) according to formula 1): s = x * W , and calculate the required number of rows (r) according to the following formula 2): r = y * H . Otherwise, if the desired number of stitches per row (s) and the desired resulting aspect ratio [W:H] of the fabric or shape is given, use the following formula 3): r = s * y / (x * [W:H]) . Creating scalable patterns with Inkscape To create patterns that can be scaled with optimal quality, design them in a vector graphics program. The following instructions use Inkscape which is open source. A video tutorial that also explains how to fill shapes with a repetitive pattern and how to adjust the pattern fill according to your gauge can be found in a post on the blog by DerAndere . Here are the basic steps: Inkscape step by step Download Inkscape 0.92 (or newer) for free from the Inkscape homepage and install it. Run Inkscape, left-click \"View\" and activate the option \"page grid\". Left-click File -> Document properties. In the dialog that pops up, Set user-defined hight and width of the document in mm, so that the document is about twice as big as the desired size of the textile to be designed. Left-click the tab \"grid\" and set grid units to mm. Then set \"spacing X\" = 1 and \"spacing Y\" = 1. Close the dialog. Left-click on the tool \"Create rectangle and squares\" tool (hotkey: F4) in the left toolbar and draw. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your rectangle and adjust it using the tool controls that appear in the toolbar at the top. The width and hight in mm of that rectangle should equal exactly the desired width (W) and hight (H) of the fabric part you want to produce. Left-click \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) -> Fill -> \"Solid color\". Set the value RGBA = ffffffff (white). Left-click the tab \"Stroke color\" and set it to \"No color\". Left-click on one of the drawing tools in the left toolbar and draw a shape of the desired size inside the existing (invisible) rectangle from step 4-6. For B\u00e9zier-curves, the drawing mode has to be selected from the toolbar at the top before drawing and double-click or pressing the [enter] key ends drawing. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your second shape and adjust it using the tool controls or by dragging the handles of the shape with the mouse. Left-click Object -> \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) and set stroke color and/or fill color to \"No color\", RGBA = ffffffff (white) or RGBA = 000000ff (black). Left-click File -> \"Save as...\" and choose a destination and file name. It is recommended to indicate the part size in the file name. Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm) as described above . Use the select-tool, select all objects including the background rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform..... Left-click the tab \"Scale\". Change % to mm, verify that the option \"proportional scaling\" is disabled and set Hight to the new hight h: h = H * y / x . Here, H is the desired fabric hight in mm. Left-click Apply. Calculate the required stitches per row (s) for your textile using formula 1): s = x * W . Here, x is again the number of stitches per mm, W is the desired fabric width (see step 5) in mm. Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle and left-click File -> \"Export as PNG\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[E]). Left-click the tab \"Selection\" and set unit to px. Set Image size:Width to the value of s (required stitches per row). Left-click \"Export as\", set the target path, type in a file name that indicates the part size and gauge and left-click \"Export\". It is recommended to undo step 12 by going to Edit -> Undo ([Ctrl]+[Z]) before making further adjustments to the design inside Inkscape. Optionally, open the exported PNG in GIMP 2.10 (or newer) and increase contrast by left-clicking Colors -> Levels and adjusting the Input min and max value (black triangle: set black point, white triangle: set white point). Left-click OK. Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed -> black/white (1bit). Then edit the pattern using the pencil tool and export as PNG as described in the previous section . Using Inkscape to scale patterns for creation of differently sized textiles If you have a pattern saved as SVG file and you want to change the resulting fabric size, you can scale it using Inkscape: Scaling step by step Open the SVG file in Inkscape. If you want to scale the width of contours and B\u00e9zier-curves with the rest of the shapes, select those objects and left-click Path -> \"Convert object to path\". Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform... ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[M]). If you want to keep the aspect ratio, activate the option \"Scale proportionally\". Set the scaling factor in percent (or change % to mm and set the desired Width (and Hight) in mm). Then left-click Apply. Continue with steps 12-16 of the previous section . This article was written by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"Pattern Creation"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#pattern-creation","text":"You can use free open source software to design patterns. Create an image with a width of 200 pixels or less with indexed colors. For two color knitwork, make the image monochromatic: black and white (1 bit) with each pixel representing a stitch. Save it in the PNG file format. The following instructions show how to achieve this using GIMP and how to benefit from the vector graphics program Inkscape to create scalable patterns.","title":"Pattern creation"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#using-gimp-to-create-patterns-and-save-as-png-file","text":"Download the latest version of GIMP from the GIMP homepage and install it. Run GIMP. In GIMP, left-click File -> New. Enter the desired width and height in pixels (= number of stitches per row and number of rows, respectively), then left-click \"OK\". Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed. In the dialog that pops up, select \"Use black and white (1-bit) palette\" for textiles with two colors. Left-click Tools -> Paint Tools -> Pencil (hotkey: N). Set the pencil tool settings to Size = 1.00 (1x1 pixel), Hardness = 100, keep other tool options at default settings (Dynamics Off). Keep default foreground color (black) and background color (white). Show grid: Left-click View -> Show Grid. Configure Grid: Left-click Image -> Configure Grid. Set Spacing:Horizontal = 1.00 pixels and Spacing:Vertical = 1.00 pixels. Left-click \"OK\". Zoom in to see individual pixels. Left-click View -> Zoom -> select the percentage you want. Draw the pattern: In most cases, your background color is represented by white pixels and contrast color (foreground) is represented by black pixels. You may need to set the pencil to black. Left-click Tools -> Default colors. In case you make an error: Mouse over a white square on your image and press CTRL. Your pencil will now color any square white. Fix your error. To return to black as your foreground color, left-click Tools -> Default colors. Once you've finished your pattern, save the file in xcf format just in case you need to make modifications later. Left-click File -> Save. Type in a file name, then select the target directory. Select Save. Now save for AYAB. Left-click File -> \"Export as\". In the \"Export Image\" dialog that pops up, type in a file name and select the target directory. Next, left-click \"Select File Type (By Extension)\" -> \"PNG (.PNG)\", then left-click \"Export\". In the \"Export as PNG\" dialog that pops up, you can keep Compression level = 9 and optionally deselect all other options. Then left-click \"Export\" at the bottom of that dialog. You can close GIMP now.","title":"Using GIMP to create patterns and save as PNG file"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#how-to-determine-your-gauge-and-compensate-for-elongation","text":"If you want to create fabrics with exact dimensions and compensate for the fact that stitches are usually wider than high, you must first determine your gauge: Choose your yarn and make a gauge swatch with it on your knitting machine (a small test fabric produced with the same settings as used for the final product). Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm). If the desired width (W) and height (H) of the fabric or shape you want to create is given, calculate the required number of stitches (s) according to formula 1): s = x * W , and calculate the required number of rows (r) according to the following formula 2): r = y * H . Otherwise, if the desired number of stitches per row (s) and the desired resulting aspect ratio [W:H] of the fabric or shape is given, use the following formula 3): r = s * y / (x * [W:H]) .","title":"How to determine your gauge and compensate for elongation"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#creating-scalable-patterns-with-inkscape","text":"To create patterns that can be scaled with optimal quality, design them in a vector graphics program. The following instructions use Inkscape which is open source. A video tutorial that also explains how to fill shapes with a repetitive pattern and how to adjust the pattern fill according to your gauge can be found in a post on the blog by DerAndere . Here are the basic steps:","title":"Creating scalable patterns with Inkscape"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#inkscape-step-by-step","text":"Download Inkscape 0.92 (or newer) for free from the Inkscape homepage and install it. Run Inkscape, left-click \"View\" and activate the option \"page grid\". Left-click File -> Document properties. In the dialog that pops up, Set user-defined hight and width of the document in mm, so that the document is about twice as big as the desired size of the textile to be designed. Left-click the tab \"grid\" and set grid units to mm. Then set \"spacing X\" = 1 and \"spacing Y\" = 1. Close the dialog. Left-click on the tool \"Create rectangle and squares\" tool (hotkey: F4) in the left toolbar and draw. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your rectangle and adjust it using the tool controls that appear in the toolbar at the top. The width and hight in mm of that rectangle should equal exactly the desired width (W) and hight (H) of the fabric part you want to produce. Left-click \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) -> Fill -> \"Solid color\". Set the value RGBA = ffffffff (white). Left-click the tab \"Stroke color\" and set it to \"No color\". Left-click on one of the drawing tools in the left toolbar and draw a shape of the desired size inside the existing (invisible) rectangle from step 4-6. For B\u00e9zier-curves, the drawing mode has to be selected from the toolbar at the top before drawing and double-click or pressing the [enter] key ends drawing. Choose the select tool (hotkey: F1). Select your second shape and adjust it using the tool controls or by dragging the handles of the shape with the mouse. Left-click Object -> \"Fill and Stroke\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[F]) and set stroke color and/or fill color to \"No color\", RGBA = ffffffff (white) or RGBA = 000000ff (black). Left-click File -> \"Save as...\" and choose a destination and file name. It is recommended to indicate the part size in the file name. Determine the gauge (x = number of stitches per mm, y = number of rows per mm) as described above . Use the select-tool, select all objects including the background rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform..... Left-click the tab \"Scale\". Change % to mm, verify that the option \"proportional scaling\" is disabled and set Hight to the new hight h: h = H * y / x . Here, H is the desired fabric hight in mm. Left-click Apply. Calculate the required stitches per row (s) for your textile using formula 1): s = x * W . Here, x is again the number of stitches per mm, W is the desired fabric width (see step 5) in mm. Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle and left-click File -> \"Export as PNG\" ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[E]). Left-click the tab \"Selection\" and set unit to px. Set Image size:Width to the value of s (required stitches per row). Left-click \"Export as\", set the target path, type in a file name that indicates the part size and gauge and left-click \"Export\". It is recommended to undo step 12 by going to Edit -> Undo ([Ctrl]+[Z]) before making further adjustments to the design inside Inkscape. Optionally, open the exported PNG in GIMP 2.10 (or newer) and increase contrast by left-clicking Colors -> Levels and adjusting the Input min and max value (black triangle: set black point, white triangle: set white point). Left-click OK. Left-click Image -> Mode -> Indexed -> black/white (1bit). Then edit the pattern using the pencil tool and export as PNG as described in the previous section .","title":"Inkscape step by step"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#using-inkscape-to-scale-patterns-for-creation-of-differently-sized-textiles","text":"If you have a pattern saved as SVG file and you want to change the resulting fabric size, you can scale it using Inkscape:","title":"Using Inkscape to scale patterns for creation of differently sized textiles"},{"location":"pattern_image_creation/#scaling-step-by-step","text":"Open the SVG file in Inkscape. If you want to scale the width of contours and B\u00e9zier-curves with the rest of the shapes, select those objects and left-click Path -> \"Convert object to path\". Select all objects, including the invisible background-rectangle. Left-click Object -> Transform... ([Shift]+[Ctrl]+[M]). If you want to keep the aspect ratio, activate the option \"Scale proportionally\". Set the scaling factor in percent (or change % to mm and set the desired Width (and Hight) in mm). Then left-click Apply. Continue with steps 12-16 of the previous section . This article was written by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"Scaling step by step"},{"location":"development/connectors/","text":"KH-910 Internal Connectors Pin Color Description S1 1 orange 16 V 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V S2 1 green 16 V 2 blue 16V 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid 9 solenoid 10 solenoid S3 1 solenoid 2 solenoid 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid S5 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 - - 4 red V2 - Needle counter (right fast) 5 blue V1 - Needle counter (right slow) 6 green Belt shift signal 7 yellow GND (?) 8 black Hall sensor right 9 red Scanner clock 10 blue Scanner color (high: black, low: white) S7 1 red Hall sensor left 2 black GND 3 white 5 V KH-930 Internal Connectors Pin Color Description S1 1 orange >12 V (V_solenoid) 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V (V_logic) 5 blue >10 V (V_help) S2 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor left (EOL_left) S3 1 white V_logic 2 grey GND 3 brown V1 4 blue V2 5 green Belt shift signal S4 1 solenoid F 2 solenoid E 3 solenoid D 4 solenoid C 5 solenoid B 6 solenoid A 7 solenoid 9 8 solenoid 8 S5 1 solenoid 7 2 solenoid 6 3 solenoid 5 4 solenoid 4 5 solenoid 3 6 solenoid 2 7 solenoid 1 8 solenoid 0 9 V_solenoid 10 V_solenoid S6 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor right (EOL_right)","title":"Connectors"},{"location":"development/connectors/#kh-910-internal-connectors","text":"Pin Color Description S1 1 orange 16 V 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V S2 1 green 16 V 2 blue 16V 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid 9 solenoid 10 solenoid S3 1 solenoid 2 solenoid 3 solenoid 4 solenoid 5 solenoid 6 solenoid 7 solenoid 8 solenoid S5 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 - - 4 red V2 - Needle counter (right fast) 5 blue V1 - Needle counter (right slow) 6 green Belt shift signal 7 yellow GND (?) 8 black Hall sensor right 9 red Scanner clock 10 blue Scanner color (high: black, low: white) S7 1 red Hall sensor left 2 black GND 3 white 5 V","title":"KH-910 Internal Connectors"},{"location":"development/connectors/#kh-930-internal-connectors","text":"Pin Color Description S1 1 orange >12 V (V_solenoid) 2 black GND 3 black GND 4 red 5 V (V_logic) 5 blue >10 V (V_help) S2 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor left (EOL_left) S3 1 white V_logic 2 grey GND 3 brown V1 4 blue V2 5 green Belt shift signal S4 1 solenoid F 2 solenoid E 3 solenoid D 4 solenoid C 5 solenoid B 6 solenoid A 7 solenoid 9 8 solenoid 8 S5 1 solenoid 7 2 solenoid 6 3 solenoid 5 4 solenoid 4 5 solenoid 3 6 solenoid 2 7 solenoid 1 8 solenoid 0 9 V_solenoid 10 V_solenoid S6 1 white 5 V 2 black GND 3 red Hall sensor right (EOL_right)","title":"KH-930 Internal Connectors"},{"location":"how_to_knit/basics/","text":"Single Bed Fair Isle To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual . For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9, find it on your computer in the folder [path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/ Cast on using needles Left30 - Right30 and knit a few rows of stockinette, ending on the left (KH910 manual, pp. 10-15, 18-21). Position the carriage so that the magnet on the center back of the carriage is outside the left turn mark. Run the AYAB software. In AYAB, left-click \"Load pattern\" and browse for the image triangles_60x10.png that is located in [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. (If you want to knit a different pattern, choose a black/white raster image, preferrably in .PNG file format. It must be at least as wide as the needles you are using) In the AYAB software, leave all the settings as they are: Single Bed, Color 2, Start Row 1, Start Needle 30, Stop Needle 30, Alignment Center. Click Configure, wait a moment. Click Knit. Wait until it says \"Please init machine\" Set the KC change knob to KC1 or KC2. Move the carriage so the magnet on the back of the carriage crosses the left turn mark, and STOP. IMPORTANT!!! Wait 2 or 3 seconds, there will be a \"triple-beep\" Continue across the row. After you pass the end of the selected needles, it should beep. Our pattern has some black squares in row 1, you can see that they have been selected forward to D position. If you are \"air-knitting\" (no yarn) you can just continue passing the carriage back and forth from here. To set up for Fair Isle: Stop when the carriage is on the right at the end of the first row. Press the top half of the center button on the front of the carriage (or the whole center button (\"MC\") if yours is all one piece, see KH910 manual, p.42) Thread the second yarn into feeder B, and hold the loose end of the yarn for the first few stitches (KH910 manual, p.42). Knit back and forth. There's a beep at the end of each row. Note: As of AYAB v0.95 the beep happens right as you finish the row; earlier documentation mentions waiting for the beep because it used to have a longer delay. Now you do not need to wait, just turn around smoothly. You can watch the row numbers count up in the software. At Row 10, you'll see \"Image Transmission finished.\" Knit until the long beep, then stop and look at the needles. Notice that it has selected the needles for row 10, but we haven't knitted them yet. So knit one more pass from left to right. Now we have really finished, all needles are at B. Set the KC knob to NL, unthread the contrast color and knit a few rows of white (KH910 manual, p.43). Binding off is described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual. This article was written by Adrienne and modified by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"Basics"},{"location":"how_to_knit/basics/#single-bed-fair-isle","text":"To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual . For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9, find it on your computer in the folder [path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/ Cast on using needles Left30 - Right30 and knit a few rows of stockinette, ending on the left (KH910 manual, pp. 10-15, 18-21). Position the carriage so that the magnet on the center back of the carriage is outside the left turn mark. Run the AYAB software. In AYAB, left-click \"Load pattern\" and browse for the image triangles_60x10.png that is located in [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. (If you want to knit a different pattern, choose a black/white raster image, preferrably in .PNG file format. It must be at least as wide as the needles you are using) In the AYAB software, leave all the settings as they are: Single Bed, Color 2, Start Row 1, Start Needle 30, Stop Needle 30, Alignment Center. Click Configure, wait a moment. Click Knit. Wait until it says \"Please init machine\" Set the KC change knob to KC1 or KC2. Move the carriage so the magnet on the back of the carriage crosses the left turn mark, and STOP. IMPORTANT!!! Wait 2 or 3 seconds, there will be a \"triple-beep\" Continue across the row. After you pass the end of the selected needles, it should beep. Our pattern has some black squares in row 1, you can see that they have been selected forward to D position. If you are \"air-knitting\" (no yarn) you can just continue passing the carriage back and forth from here.","title":"Single Bed Fair Isle"},{"location":"how_to_knit/basics/#to-set-up-for-fair-isle","text":"Stop when the carriage is on the right at the end of the first row. Press the top half of the center button on the front of the carriage (or the whole center button (\"MC\") if yours is all one piece, see KH910 manual, p.42) Thread the second yarn into feeder B, and hold the loose end of the yarn for the first few stitches (KH910 manual, p.42). Knit back and forth. There's a beep at the end of each row. Note: As of AYAB v0.95 the beep happens right as you finish the row; earlier documentation mentions waiting for the beep because it used to have a longer delay. Now you do not need to wait, just turn around smoothly. You can watch the row numbers count up in the software. At Row 10, you'll see \"Image Transmission finished.\" Knit until the long beep, then stop and look at the needles. Notice that it has selected the needles for row 10, but we haven't knitted them yet. So knit one more pass from left to right. Now we have really finished, all needles are at B. Set the KC knob to NL, unthread the contrast color and knit a few rows of white (KH910 manual, p.43). Binding off is described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual. This article was written by Adrienne and modified by DerAndere Feel free to improve it!","title":"To set up for Fair Isle:"},{"location":"how_to_knit/circular_knitting/","text":"A full tutorial for circular. Comments and corrections welcome. And thanks to Cindy for suggesting this feature in the first place. I\u2019m using AYAB v0.9, this was also available in 0.8. (First draft Sept 26, 2017, minor edits Nov 9, 2017) The Circular technique is knitted in a very similar way to 2-color DBJ (Double Bed Jacquard, AYAB\u2019s \u201cRibber\u201d setting,) but Circular makes a 2-color stockinette tube. The Circular feature is the closest we can come to circular fair-isle on a Brother machine. It helps to already be familiar with the standard ribber cast-on and with 2-color DBJ before attempting Circular. This tutorial is very detailed but most of it is the casting on and setting up; the actual circular part consists of four passes of the carriage with two changes of color. Steps 11 - 14 are the AYAB setup, and 15 - 20 are the actual knitting. For our first time through we will make one-row stripes on the ribber, there will be two rows on the ribber for every one completed row on the main bed. So the ribber side ends up twice as long as the patterned side knitted on the main bed, making a rather oddly shaped tube. This sample is a 64 stitch circle, L16-R16 on each bed. Stitch Size of T6/5 (Main 6, Ribber 5) is about right as a sample for a possible sock in Sock-Ease yarn from Lion Brand. Or try going a bit tighter on the ribber to get a more balanced tube. Steps 2 - 6 are a standard circular cast-on, with a small variation from the settings described in the manual Choose a fair-isle pattern. It must have short floats, especially near the edges of the width you plan to use. And no rows that are entirely either color, which would be a whole-row float. My sample is StitchWorld #27, you can download and use this file. Install your ribber and color changer. Set the connected carriages on the right. Rack the ribber to its central position, (5) and set the P-H to H. All settings on both carriages to normal, see p30 of the KR850 manual. Thread the white yarn on the left side of the mast, black on the right. Thread the black into button 1 of the CC, and anchor it underneath. No buttons selected on the color changer yet. Take the white yarn behind the black and over to the carriage to start the cast on from the right. Select needles L16 - R16 on both beds, and cast on for circular. Follow page 30 in the 850 manual, EXCEPT, after the zigzag row set just the RIGHT Part button on the main bed, and on the ribber set the LEFT slider up to P.R. and the right one down on N. Middle slider down. Side levers up, bottom slider on I. Both lili buttons to normal. Set the Stitch Sizes, try 6 on the main bed and 5 on the ribber. (Use ravel cord for the initial zigzag if you want an open tube, or you can just snip the cast-on later.) Knit the zigzag row, hang the cast-on comb and one or two ribber weights. Set P-H to P. Leave the rest of the settings the same as the cast on. Knit a few rows of plain circular, about 12 passes (6 circular rounds) in white ending COL (Carriage on Left). Press button 2 on the CC so it is open to catch the white yarn, and put the carriage all the way out on the left into the color changer. The carriage waits here while we do the pattern setup. Main carriage: KC knob to KC2, both Part buttons in. Ribber carriage: No changes. Check that the left slider is up (P.R, or Part) right slider down (N, knit) Row counter = 000 In AYAB: open the image, which must be at least as wide as the main bed needles you are using. Set the start/stop needles to the width you are knitting on the main bed, 16 and 16 in our example (or one or two wider, just be sure the settings are not narrower than your actual needles); 2 colors; start at row 1 (usually); Infinite Repeat; Circular; Center. Click Configure, then Knit. Press Color Changer button 1 to select black. Move the carriage out of the color changer and over the left turn mark. Stop and wait for the triple beep. And check that only the black yarn was selected. Knit across, left - right, wait for the beep. Knit across, right - left and all the way into the color changer, the beep should happen as you do so. Press CC button 2, for white. Knit across, left - right, wait for the beep. Knit across, right - left and into the color changer, the beep should happen as you do so. Press CC button 1, for black. Repeat steps 16 - 21 for the rest of the project. For this sample do about 20 rows (80 passes.) See the note below about hanging extra weights on the ribber\u2019s knitting. To finish the sample, cancel the main carriage settings from step 7. Set to standard circular (KC button at NL, right part button pushed in on main carriage, left slider up at P.R. on the ribber as before, no lili) and knit about 12 passes (6 rounds) in just one color. Bind off if you like, or just cut the yarn, hold onto the comb below and take the carriage across and back to let the knitting drop off. Notes: The left-right rows knit on the ribber and select on the main bed. The right-left rows knit on the main bed leaving all needles in B afterwards, and slip (nothing knits) on the ribber. Don\u2019t try to knit too fast. On the right you need to wait for the beep, and on the left give it time to take up the slack yarn as you approach the knitting. Also gives you time to check that the new yarn is correctly in the feeder. Watch the row numbers in AYAB as you knit. Note that 4 passes make 1 row; the row counter will say 4 when AYAB has just switched up from 1 and is starting the sequence of four passes for row 2. (AYAB v0.8 numbered the rows differently.) As always with ribber work, stop with the carriage on the right after about 5 full rows (20 passes) to check: unhook the starting ends of the yarn make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell if a loop is caught around a gate peg. hang the \u201csevens\u201d wires and weights if the edge stitches are having trouble knitting off. you generally don\u2019t need the fine knit bar for circular knitting. IMPORTANT: hang some claw weights on the ribber side of the knitting, nearest to you. Make sure they hook into just the ribber-side layer of the knitting. This is because the ribber side is growing faster and its stitches need extra weight to stay on the needles. Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the work on the side away from you, and stripes on the side facing you. Look at your sample. Note that the striped back is twice as long as the front. Further instructions soon for a way to prevent that and make a balanced tube. And I think I just found a use for the unbalanced tube, and developed a new way to do socks! The heel and foot are seamless fair-isle-in-the-round. No short rows. Here\u2019s the first prototype, the only seam (up the back of the leg) isn\u2019t sewn yet. Full tutorial coming soon. This article is copied from ravelry . Thanks, Adrienne! Feel free to improve it!","title":"Circular Knitting"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/","text":"Introduction Instructions for 2-color Double Bed Jacquard (AYAB's \"Ribber\" setting.) Double bed jacquard (DBJ) as described here (Rib Jacquard with birds-eye backing) is known in Brother manuals as Multi-Colour Rib. See pages 38-39 of the KR850 ribber manual (the penguins) and page 11 of the manual for the KRC-900 color changer . You can make other DBJ variants, too (see end of this page). Note that DBJ in 3 or more colors has some differences, though the basic instructions are the same. Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual and on page 1 of the KR850 manual, respectively. Smiley was made from this image: AYAB takes care of the colors for you, you just give it a black-and-white pattern as if you are going to do single bed Fair Isle. This tutorial refers to the foreground color as black, and the background color as white. To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Use thin yarns, you'll be using side-by-side needles on both beds. (For those in the US, Woollike yarn works well.) For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9 (or newer), find it in the folder [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. which looks like this: The useful thing about this Triangles pattern is that row 1 selects 1 black needle per triangle, row 2 selects groups of 2, row 3 groups of 3 etc. If you watch the needle selection carefully you'll start to understand what it's doing. Instructions Set up the ribber (KR850 manual, pages 3-7) Set up the color changer (KHR900 manual, pages 2-4) with the black yarn (foreground color); the white slot (background color) is open ready to accept the yarn after the cast on. You might need the fine knit bar. Try it if your stitches sometimes tuck instead of knitting off. On the ribber, set half-pitch lever to H (P-H lever=H, see KR850 manual, page 13), On the ribber, set racking grip handle to 5 (Rack=5, KR850 manual p.13) set bracket lever to the normal (highest) position (KR850 manual, p.14) Needles L30-R30 on both beds for our first Triangles sample Make sure you have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Cast on in white in FNR (Full Needle Rib) as shown on pages 26-28 of the KR850 manual. Knit one or two rows of FNR. Carriage on left, outside the left turn mark. Set the row counter, RC=000 Set up the carriages as shown on page 39 of the KR850 manual: Page 39.png Main bed: Both part buttons in; KC1 or KC2. I usually use KC2 rather than KC1. Ribber: Both sliders (cam levers) up. Both lili buttons to lili. Lower slide lever to lili (center). Stitch Size depends on your yarn. Try 4/4. In the AYAB software, left-click \"Load pattern\" and select the image triangles_60x10.png. (For other patterns, choose a monochrome image that is at least as wide as the needles you are using) Set AYAB to 2-color, start at row 1, Infinite Repeat, start/stop needles 30/30, Ribber (\"Ribber: Classic\" for AYAB v0.95), Center. Press Configure. Press Knit. Press the color changer button for the black yarn. Bring the carriage out past the turn mark and stop to wait for the triple-beep as usual, just on this first row. Also check that the white yarn is in the feeder, and if this is its first row, check that the yarn end is hanging straight down and isn't caught anywhere. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to black. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to white. That's it, repeat: Knit across, knit back, change color. After the first set AYAB will have counted up two rows and be starting row 3, the row counter will show 4 passes. After about 10 rows (20 passes), stop with the carriage on the right and check: Let the starting ends of the yarn hang free. Make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath. Feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell if a loop is caught around a gate peg. Hang edge weights if you are having trouble knitting off the edge stitches. Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the work on the side away from you, and birds-eye stripes on the side facing you. For finalizing the knit, you may want to add 1-2 rows of FNR (KR850 manual, p. 28). Binding off (casting off) is described on page 53 of the KR850 manual or in this video on Youtube: Double Bed Bind-Off Video ) Any bind off that requires latching stitches through each other requires the last row before chaining stitches to be knit looser than previous ones (see below) An alternative method (\"Das Abketten II\") is translated as follows: Transfer all stitches to the rear needle bed [to the needle bed of the KH 910 (KR850 manual, p.52)] and immediately set the empty needles of the KR 850 ribber back to the B-position. At the K carriage of the KH 910, set the tension dial 4 steps higher [to 7]. The tension dial of the KR 850 ribber carriage remains unchanged. Move the carriage from left to right. On the needles of the KR 850 ribber, stitches have formed around the previously empty needles. Disconnect the carriages [(KR850 manual, p. 15)] and move the KR 850 ribber carriage from right to left. Thereby, the stitches are removed from the needles of the KR 850 ribber. Now, lower the KR 850 ribber [to the lowest position (KR850 manual, p. 14)]. This has created the elongated stitches that may again be chained through each other: Set the needles of the KH 910 needle bed to the E-position. Remove the weights and the comb, then proceed by binding off as described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual. More description on how 2-color DBJ works In our Triangles sample with Infinite Repeat on, let's stop and observe, with the carriage on the left at the beginning of row 1 of its cycle of ten rows. We have just changed to the white yarn ready for the next row 1 as displayed in AYAB. Remember that AYAB's row numbering focuses on what's being selected not what's being knitted. Notice that what's selected now is the last set of 10 white needles to complete the previous triangle. Knit across from left-right. It has completed knitting the previous triangle, and has selected sets of 9 needles to do the background for the points of the next row of triangles. Knit across right-left and change color to black. Stop again and observe before you knit the row. It has just knitted the sets of 9 white stitches, and selected the single black stitches that go in between them, forming the points of the row of triangles. The sequence of 4 passes for two rows is: Pass 1: White yarn, knit whatever it was given by the last selection of the previous set. Select for the white stitches for row 1 of this set of two rows. Pass 2: White yarn, knit the first white stitches, select for the black stitches that will go in between the white stitches we just knitted, also for row 1 of this set. Change color to black. Pass 3: Black yarn, knit the selected needles to complete row 1, select for the black stitches of row 2 of this set. Pass 4: Black yarn, knit the selected needles, select for the white stitches of row 2 of this set. Change color to white. Notice that the selection is an \"ABBA\" sequence. White, black, black, white; repeat. Each set of four passes does the selections for two rows of the pattern. But the set is not completely self-contained, its first pass completes the knitting of the previous set, and its fourth pass does a selection which will be knitted in the first pass of the next set of four passes. You'll see discussions about Brother 2-color DBJ needing to start by selecting from the right, so how does that square with AYAB always starting from the left? I think it's just an alternative way of thinking about how 2-color DBJ works. In the AYAB context where everything starts from the left, each set of 4 passes has provided the selection for the next set during its last right-left pass. So in a sense the first selection of the set did start on the right; in AYAB that is counted as the last pass of the previous set. Further observations Color changers are not 100% reliable, though there are adjustments you can make. Occasionally it will grab both yarns or neither, and disaster ensues. Use the slower rhythm enforced by AYAB to take a look at the yarn in the feeder every time as it come out of the color changer. You may be able to stop in time to fix it. The tutorial describes the instructions for knitting the background color first. Starting in version 1.0.0, AYAB chooses the most common color in the image as the background color. You might be wondering what happens on the very first pass. There's nothing pre-selected on the main bed, so it only knits on the ribber (alternating needles because of the lili settings) while selecting for the first white pattern stitches. Technically I think that means that there's an extra ribber row at the beginning, but it gets absorbed into the backing pattern and is not noticeable. In subsequent first passes of the cycle of 4 passes/2 rows, it has been provided with selected needles to knit in white. How do you end your pattern on exactly the right row at the end of a repeat? In Infinite Repeat you'll need to do one or two passes of the next cycle, but cancelling any selection on the second pass. In non-repeating, the long beep sounds after it has selected for the last row. Knit one or two more passes. When using the lili settings, you must have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Take a look at the sides of your sample, do you want to have the edge stitch always on the main bed? (Optional, but may look better) To keep an even number on the ribber, your main bed will need on odd number of stitches. Doing some FNR after the cast-on and before starting the pattern can make a wavy edge. With careful management, it's possible to use the last circular row of your cast-on as the first (setup) row of your pattern. Sometimes you want DBJ all in one color. Just make an image that's all white or all black, no color-changing needed. Some of Brother's DBJ instructions claim that the extra \"latch plate\" to add to the ribber connector arm is required. See page 49 of the 930/940 manual. Not so, it's optional. In fact when I tried it it seemed to make things worse, the color change was less reliable. (Latch plate is misspelled as Clatch Plate in the 930/940 manual.) Alternative Jacquard variants with AYAB Different variants of DBJ exist. A selection of carriage settings that can easily be used with the AYAB hack is provided in table 1 and table 2 below. More variants that require different degrees of hand manipulation are described together with fabric properties in a blog post by Alessandrina . Table 1: Carriage settings for a selection of different DBJ variants. Adapted from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever striper (double) striper (half) tucked half Milano KH carriage ... ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Tuck R, Part L Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KCI KR carriage ... ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N N Holding Cam Lever R N N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 0 Cam Lever L N N N Cam Lever R N P.R. N Tucking Lever R R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. Table 2: carriage settings for DBJ with solid backing. Adapted from \"steel breeze\" (2010) and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever solid (col1)** solid (col2)** KH carriage ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KR carriage ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N Holding Cam Lever R N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 Cam Lever L P.R. N Cam Lever R P.R. N Tucking Lever R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. ** After each 2 rows, change settings and proceed with the next color. This article is copied from ravelry and modified by DerAndere . Thanks, Adrienne! Settings for alternative Jacquard variants were taken from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and a blog post by Alessandrina . Feel free to improve it!","title":"Double Bed Jaquard (2-color)"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#introduction","text":"Instructions for 2-color Double Bed Jacquard (AYAB's \"Ribber\" setting.) Double bed jacquard (DBJ) as described here (Rib Jacquard with birds-eye backing) is known in Brother manuals as Multi-Colour Rib. See pages 38-39 of the KR850 ribber manual (the penguins) and page 11 of the manual for the KRC-900 color changer . You can make other DBJ variants, too (see end of this page). Note that DBJ in 3 or more colors has some differences, though the basic instructions are the same. Carriage part names are defined on page 32 of the KH910 manual and on page 1 of the KR850 manual, respectively. Smiley was made from this image: AYAB takes care of the colors for you, you just give it a black-and-white pattern as if you are going to do single bed Fair Isle. This tutorial refers to the foreground color as black, and the background color as white. To create your own patterns, refer to section \"Pattern creation\" . Use thin yarns, you'll be using side-by-side needles on both beds. (For those in the US, Woollike yarn works well.) For your first practice sample, use this Triangles image that also comes with AYAB 0.9 (or newer), find it in the folder [Path to your AYAB installation]/AYAB/patterns/. which looks like this: The useful thing about this Triangles pattern is that row 1 selects 1 black needle per triangle, row 2 selects groups of 2, row 3 groups of 3 etc. If you watch the needle selection carefully you'll start to understand what it's doing.","title":"Introduction"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#instructions","text":"Set up the ribber (KR850 manual, pages 3-7) Set up the color changer (KHR900 manual, pages 2-4) with the black yarn (foreground color); the white slot (background color) is open ready to accept the yarn after the cast on. You might need the fine knit bar. Try it if your stitches sometimes tuck instead of knitting off. On the ribber, set half-pitch lever to H (P-H lever=H, see KR850 manual, page 13), On the ribber, set racking grip handle to 5 (Rack=5, KR850 manual p.13) set bracket lever to the normal (highest) position (KR850 manual, p.14) Needles L30-R30 on both beds for our first Triangles sample Make sure you have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Cast on in white in FNR (Full Needle Rib) as shown on pages 26-28 of the KR850 manual. Knit one or two rows of FNR. Carriage on left, outside the left turn mark. Set the row counter, RC=000 Set up the carriages as shown on page 39 of the KR850 manual: Page 39.png Main bed: Both part buttons in; KC1 or KC2. I usually use KC2 rather than KC1. Ribber: Both sliders (cam levers) up. Both lili buttons to lili. Lower slide lever to lili (center). Stitch Size depends on your yarn. Try 4/4. In the AYAB software, left-click \"Load pattern\" and select the image triangles_60x10.png. (For other patterns, choose a monochrome image that is at least as wide as the needles you are using) Set AYAB to 2-color, start at row 1, Infinite Repeat, start/stop needles 30/30, Ribber (\"Ribber: Classic\" for AYAB v0.95), Center. Press Configure. Press Knit. Press the color changer button for the black yarn. Bring the carriage out past the turn mark and stop to wait for the triple-beep as usual, just on this first row. Also check that the white yarn is in the feeder, and if this is its first row, check that the yarn end is hanging straight down and isn't caught anywhere. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to black. Knit across, wait for the beep. Knit back and into the color changer, the beep happens as you do so. Press the button to change to white. That's it, repeat: Knit across, knit back, change color. After the first set AYAB will have counted up two rows and be starting row 3, the row counter will show 4 passes. After about 10 rows (20 passes), stop with the carriage on the right and check: Let the starting ends of the yarn hang free. Make sure the ribber weights and comb are not caught on anything underneath. Feel along the knitting on both sides from underneath, you may be able to tell if a loop is caught around a gate peg. Hang edge weights if you are having trouble knitting off the edge stitches. Then check again after several inches have been knit, by now you may be able to put a mirror underneath and check that the pattern you want is appearing on the work on the side away from you, and birds-eye stripes on the side facing you. For finalizing the knit, you may want to add 1-2 rows of FNR (KR850 manual, p. 28). Binding off (casting off) is described on page 53 of the KR850 manual or in this video on Youtube: Double Bed Bind-Off Video ) Any bind off that requires latching stitches through each other requires the last row before chaining stitches to be knit looser than previous ones (see below) An alternative method (\"Das Abketten II\") is translated as follows: Transfer all stitches to the rear needle bed [to the needle bed of the KH 910 (KR850 manual, p.52)] and immediately set the empty needles of the KR 850 ribber back to the B-position. At the K carriage of the KH 910, set the tension dial 4 steps higher [to 7]. The tension dial of the KR 850 ribber carriage remains unchanged. Move the carriage from left to right. On the needles of the KR 850 ribber, stitches have formed around the previously empty needles. Disconnect the carriages [(KR850 manual, p. 15)] and move the KR 850 ribber carriage from right to left. Thereby, the stitches are removed from the needles of the KR 850 ribber. Now, lower the KR 850 ribber [to the lowest position (KR850 manual, p. 14)]. This has created the elongated stitches that may again be chained through each other: Set the needles of the KH 910 needle bed to the E-position. Remove the weights and the comb, then proceed by binding off as described on page 22 or pages 111-114 of the KH910 manual.","title":"Instructions"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#more-description-on-how-2-color-dbj-works","text":"In our Triangles sample with Infinite Repeat on, let's stop and observe, with the carriage on the left at the beginning of row 1 of its cycle of ten rows. We have just changed to the white yarn ready for the next row 1 as displayed in AYAB. Remember that AYAB's row numbering focuses on what's being selected not what's being knitted. Notice that what's selected now is the last set of 10 white needles to complete the previous triangle. Knit across from left-right. It has completed knitting the previous triangle, and has selected sets of 9 needles to do the background for the points of the next row of triangles. Knit across right-left and change color to black. Stop again and observe before you knit the row. It has just knitted the sets of 9 white stitches, and selected the single black stitches that go in between them, forming the points of the row of triangles. The sequence of 4 passes for two rows is: Pass 1: White yarn, knit whatever it was given by the last selection of the previous set. Select for the white stitches for row 1 of this set of two rows. Pass 2: White yarn, knit the first white stitches, select for the black stitches that will go in between the white stitches we just knitted, also for row 1 of this set. Change color to black. Pass 3: Black yarn, knit the selected needles to complete row 1, select for the black stitches of row 2 of this set. Pass 4: Black yarn, knit the selected needles, select for the white stitches of row 2 of this set. Change color to white. Notice that the selection is an \"ABBA\" sequence. White, black, black, white; repeat. Each set of four passes does the selections for two rows of the pattern. But the set is not completely self-contained, its first pass completes the knitting of the previous set, and its fourth pass does a selection which will be knitted in the first pass of the next set of four passes. You'll see discussions about Brother 2-color DBJ needing to start by selecting from the right, so how does that square with AYAB always starting from the left? I think it's just an alternative way of thinking about how 2-color DBJ works. In the AYAB context where everything starts from the left, each set of 4 passes has provided the selection for the next set during its last right-left pass. So in a sense the first selection of the set did start on the right; in AYAB that is counted as the last pass of the previous set.","title":"More description on how 2-color DBJ works"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#further-observations","text":"Color changers are not 100% reliable, though there are adjustments you can make. Occasionally it will grab both yarns or neither, and disaster ensues. Use the slower rhythm enforced by AYAB to take a look at the yarn in the feeder every time as it come out of the color changer. You may be able to stop in time to fix it. The tutorial describes the instructions for knitting the background color first. Starting in version 1.0.0, AYAB chooses the most common color in the image as the background color. You might be wondering what happens on the very first pass. There's nothing pre-selected on the main bed, so it only knits on the ribber (alternating needles because of the lili settings) while selecting for the first white pattern stitches. Technically I think that means that there's an extra ribber row at the beginning, but it gets absorbed into the backing pattern and is not noticeable. In subsequent first passes of the cycle of 4 passes/2 rows, it has been provided with selected needles to knit in white. How do you end your pattern on exactly the right row at the end of a repeat? In Infinite Repeat you'll need to do one or two passes of the next cycle, but cancelling any selection on the second pass. In non-repeating, the long beep sounds after it has selected for the last row. Knit one or two more passes. When using the lili settings, you must have an even number of stitches on the ribber. Take a look at the sides of your sample, do you want to have the edge stitch always on the main bed? (Optional, but may look better) To keep an even number on the ribber, your main bed will need on odd number of stitches. Doing some FNR after the cast-on and before starting the pattern can make a wavy edge. With careful management, it's possible to use the last circular row of your cast-on as the first (setup) row of your pattern. Sometimes you want DBJ all in one color. Just make an image that's all white or all black, no color-changing needed. Some of Brother's DBJ instructions claim that the extra \"latch plate\" to add to the ribber connector arm is required. See page 49 of the 930/940 manual. Not so, it's optional. In fact when I tried it it seemed to make things worse, the color change was less reliable. (Latch plate is misspelled as Clatch Plate in the 930/940 manual.)","title":"Further observations"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_2-color/#alternative-jacquard-variants-with-ayab","text":"Different variants of DBJ exist. A selection of carriage settings that can easily be used with the AYAB hack is provided in table 1 and table 2 below. More variants that require different degrees of hand manipulation are described together with fabric properties in a blog post by Alessandrina . Table 1: Carriage settings for a selection of different DBJ variants. Adapted from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever striper (double) striper (half) tucked half Milano KH carriage ... ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Tuck R, Part L Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KCI KR carriage ... ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N N Holding Cam Lever R N N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 0 Cam Lever L N N N Cam Lever R N P.R. N Tucking Lever R R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. Table 2: carriage settings for DBJ with solid backing. Adapted from \"steel breeze\" (2010) and Alessandrina (2017) with permission from the original authors. Lever solid (col1)** solid (col2)** KH carriage ... ... Cam buttons Part L, Part R Part L, Part R Change knob KCI or KCII KCI or KCII KR carriage ... ... Holding Cam Lever L N N Holding Cam Lever R N N KR Change Knob L* 0 0 KR Change Knob R* 0 0 Cam Lever L P.R. N Cam Lever R P.R. N Tucking Lever R R Slide Lever IiIi IiIi * KR Change Knob = 0: turned inwards, away from IiIi mark. ** After each 2 rows, change settings and proceed with the next color. This article is copied from ravelry and modified by DerAndere . Thanks, Adrienne! Settings for alternative Jacquard variants were taken from a blog post by \"steel breeze\" and a blog post by Alessandrina . Feel free to improve it!","title":"Alternative Jacquard variants with AYAB"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_heart-of-pluto/","text":"Sorry :( No content yet, we are still working on it!","title":"Heart of Pluto"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/","text":"Cast on Thread your machine (including 4 color changer) Thread everything except your white yarn through tension mast and color changer. Use fine knitting bar if available Set needles up for full needle rib Every needle selected Pitch lever set to half Even number of needles on ribber An extra needle on each side of ribber if available Main carriage settings Set knob to N-L Set an appropriate tension (lower than tension setting for knitting) No buttons depressed Ribber carriage settings II, no lili, N, N, R, N, N, no lili - read clockwise from roman numeral II near the bottom (pardon the bizzare highlighting, settings weren't visible in picture) same tension as main carriage While holding yarn under the machine pass carriage from right to left this will form a \"zig-zag\" row. If your last few stitches are tighter than the rest pull the needles back until they match the rest. Hang cast on comb and plenty of weights Remove wire from comb Bring comb upwards between the beds and stick \"pins\" of comb up between the zig-zag Reinsert wire and let comb drop to let the wire rest on the zig-zag Hang weights - DBJ is usually more successful with a hefty amount of weight. Put the hooks of the weights through the holes on the bottom of the cast-on comb. Drop extra stitches from ribber if you used them - they're only to help you get the edge stitches through the comb more neatly. Set main carriage to part right and ribber to part left by depressing the part :arrow_forward: button on main carriage and moving the slider on the left side of the ribber carriage from N to P*R Dial up tension Make 2 passes ending up with carriage on the left of the machine. This will make 1 round of circular knitting. Cast-on complete! Set carriages for pattern knitting Make sure carriage is fully on the left of the machine even if size of knitting is smaller. Main carriage settings Knob to KC-I OR KC-II (I usually use KC-II) Depress both part :arrow_backward: and part :arrow_forward: buttons Ribber carriage settings Both knobs to lili Both sliders to P initialize ayab (can do earlier, I prefer to wait until my cast on is complete) Begin Pattern Knitting You'll be knitting colors from white pixels to black pixels and back. So the color order will be 1 - 2 - 3 - 2 or White - Gray - Black - Gray While your yarn colors may not match the pixels I'll refer to them as if they do. On your first pass bring the carriage up to the knitting slowly until the magnet on the back aligns with the sensor on the machine and you hear the double beep. With the white yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the black yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage repeat steps 1-4 until piece is complete Bind-Off There are many ways to bind off but this is a good standard method Double Bed Bind-Off Video","title":"Middle-Color-Twice"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#cast-on","text":"Thread your machine (including 4 color changer) Thread everything except your white yarn through tension mast and color changer. Use fine knitting bar if available Set needles up for full needle rib Every needle selected Pitch lever set to half Even number of needles on ribber An extra needle on each side of ribber if available Main carriage settings Set knob to N-L Set an appropriate tension (lower than tension setting for knitting) No buttons depressed Ribber carriage settings II, no lili, N, N, R, N, N, no lili - read clockwise from roman numeral II near the bottom (pardon the bizzare highlighting, settings weren't visible in picture) same tension as main carriage While holding yarn under the machine pass carriage from right to left this will form a \"zig-zag\" row. If your last few stitches are tighter than the rest pull the needles back until they match the rest. Hang cast on comb and plenty of weights Remove wire from comb Bring comb upwards between the beds and stick \"pins\" of comb up between the zig-zag Reinsert wire and let comb drop to let the wire rest on the zig-zag Hang weights - DBJ is usually more successful with a hefty amount of weight. Put the hooks of the weights through the holes on the bottom of the cast-on comb. Drop extra stitches from ribber if you used them - they're only to help you get the edge stitches through the comb more neatly. Set main carriage to part right and ribber to part left by depressing the part :arrow_forward: button on main carriage and moving the slider on the left side of the ribber carriage from N to P*R Dial up tension Make 2 passes ending up with carriage on the left of the machine. This will make 1 round of circular knitting. Cast-on complete!","title":"Cast on"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#set-carriages-for-pattern-knitting","text":"Make sure carriage is fully on the left of the machine even if size of knitting is smaller. Main carriage settings Knob to KC-I OR KC-II (I usually use KC-II) Depress both part :arrow_backward: and part :arrow_forward: buttons Ribber carriage settings Both knobs to lili Both sliders to P initialize ayab (can do earlier, I prefer to wait until my cast on is complete)","title":"Set carriages for pattern knitting"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#begin-pattern-knitting","text":"You'll be knitting colors from white pixels to black pixels and back. So the color order will be 1 - 2 - 3 - 2 or White - Gray - Black - Gray While your yarn colors may not match the pixels I'll refer to them as if they do. On your first pass bring the carriage up to the knitting slowly until the magnet on the back aligns with the sensor on the machine and you hear the double beep. With the white yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the black yarn make 2 passes of the carriage With the gray yarn make 2 passes of the carriage repeat steps 1-4 until piece is complete","title":"Begin Pattern Knitting"},{"location":"how_to_knit/dbj_middle-color-twice/#bind-off","text":"There are many ways to bind off but this is a good standard method Double Bed Bind-Off Video","title":"Bind-Off"},{"location":"installation/hardware/","text":"Hardware install AYAB hardware comes in two versions, known as the shield and interface versions. Electronically they are the same, except that they use different flavors of the Arduino chip, so they need different drivers. The Arduino is soldered onto the interface, in the shield version it's a separate board that sits underneath. The Arduino itself is powered from the USB cable. For the power connection to the machine's patterning mechanism, follow the installation instructions that came with your hardware. See also: https://vimeo.com/99870358 Click the CC button to see subtitles in English. And for the interface; https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/AYAB_Hardware_Installation Very Important: In the shield version, you have to isolate the USB of the Arduino from the Power Connector to prevent short circuits!! Very Important: Please use a high-quality USB cable. With some cheap cables, the computer doesn't recognize the hardware!","title":"Hardware"},{"location":"installation/hardware/#hardware-install","text":"AYAB hardware comes in two versions, known as the shield and interface versions. Electronically they are the same, except that they use different flavors of the Arduino chip, so they need different drivers. The Arduino is soldered onto the interface, in the shield version it's a separate board that sits underneath. The Arduino itself is powered from the USB cable. For the power connection to the machine's patterning mechanism, follow the installation instructions that came with your hardware. See also: https://vimeo.com/99870358 Click the CC button to see subtitles in English. And for the interface; https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/AYAB_Hardware_Installation Very Important: In the shield version, you have to isolate the USB of the Arduino from the Power Connector to prevent short circuits!! Very Important: Please use a high-quality USB cable. With some cheap cables, the computer doesn't recognize the hardware!","title":"Hardware install"},{"location":"installation/software/","text":"Linux Prerequisites You need Python 3.5 and from your package manager's repository. The other main dependencies can be found in requirements.txt For Debian/Ubuntu sudo apt-get install python3-pip python3-dev python3-virtualenv python3-gi For openSUSE sudo zypper install python3-pip python3-virtualenv python3-gi All Distributions To be able to communicate with your Arduino, it might be necessary to add the rights for USB communication by adding your user to some groups. sudo usermod -a -G tty [userName] sudo usermod -a -G dialout [userName] Installation Checkout the git repository git clone https://github.com/AllYarnsAreBeautiful/ayab-desktop Create a virtual enviroment in the cloned repository cd ayab-desktop virtualenv -p python3 --system-site-packages venv/ source venv/bin/activate pip3 install -r requirements.txt Now start ayab with python3 -m fbs run Windows Requires Windows 10 or Windows 7 The Windows setup is available at ayab-knitting.com . Run the setup, install AYAB and run it with the icon on your Desktop. Important: When choosing the installation directory, make sure that you do not overwrite any previous versions. Remove them or use another folder for installation. Currently, no spaces in the installation path are allowed. macOS Requires macOS 10.12 or newer Please make sure that you have installed the SiLabs CP210x \"VCP\" Driver - it is required for use with most new boards. Download the DMG image from ayab-knitting.com , open the DMG image and drag&drop the app to your Application folder. Then run AYAB from your Application folder. Important: In case macOS tells you the application can't be opened because it's from an unidentified developer, just Ctrl+Click it and choose \"Open\".","title":"Software"},{"location":"installation/software/#linux","text":"","title":"Linux"},{"location":"installation/software/#prerequisites","text":"You need Python 3.5 and from your package manager's repository. The other main dependencies can be found in requirements.txt For Debian/Ubuntu sudo apt-get install python3-pip python3-dev python3-virtualenv python3-gi For openSUSE sudo zypper install python3-pip python3-virtualenv python3-gi All Distributions To be able to communicate with your Arduino, it might be necessary to add the rights for USB communication by adding your user to some groups. sudo usermod -a -G tty [userName] sudo usermod -a -G dialout [userName]","title":"Prerequisites"},{"location":"installation/software/#installation","text":"Checkout the git repository git clone https://github.com/AllYarnsAreBeautiful/ayab-desktop Create a virtual enviroment in the cloned repository cd ayab-desktop virtualenv -p python3 --system-site-packages venv/ source venv/bin/activate pip3 install -r requirements.txt Now start ayab with python3 -m fbs run","title":"Installation"},{"location":"installation/software/#windows","text":"Requires Windows 10 or Windows 7 The Windows setup is available at ayab-knitting.com . Run the setup, install AYAB and run it with the icon on your Desktop. Important: When choosing the installation directory, make sure that you do not overwrite any previous versions. Remove them or use another folder for installation. Currently, no spaces in the installation path are allowed.","title":"Windows"},{"location":"installation/software/#macos","text":"Requires macOS 10.12 or newer Please make sure that you have installed the SiLabs CP210x \"VCP\" Driver - it is required for use with most new boards. Download the DMG image from ayab-knitting.com , open the DMG image and drag&drop the app to your Application folder. Then run AYAB from your Application folder. Important: In case macOS tells you the application can't be opened because it's from an unidentified developer, just Ctrl+Click it and choose \"Open\".","title":"macOS"}]} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/0.95/sitemap.xml.gz b/0.95/sitemap.xml.gz index a410657..7344320 100644 Binary files a/0.95/sitemap.xml.gz and b/0.95/sitemap.xml.gz differ