From a965358c8cb67d256dd92c9544bfc900db062e56 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: =?UTF-8?q?=C3=81gi=20Kir=C3=A1ly?= Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 09:24:04 +0200 Subject: [PATCH] Initial commit --- .gitignore | 7 + .readthedocs.yml | 13 + LICENSE | 21 + Makefile | 34 + README.md | 16 + Snakefile | 49 + binder/environment.yml | 1 + data/LICENSE_TEXTS.md | 338 + data/abyss.txt | 6514 +++++++++++++ data/isles.txt | 5650 ++++++++++++ data/last.txt | 18951 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ data/sierra.txt | 6070 ++++++++++++ doc/conf.py | 169 + doc/credit.rst | 7 + doc/dependencies.rst | 18 + doc/exercises.rst | 49 + doc/index.rst | 17 + doc/purpose.rst | 12 + doc/usage.rst | 32 + environment.yml | 22 + manuscript/.gitkeep | 0 matplotlibrc | 4 + processed_data/.gitkeep | 0 results/.gitkeep | 0 source/plotcount.py | 33 + source/wordcount.py | 130 + source/zipf_test.py | 23 + 27 files changed, 38180 insertions(+) create mode 100644 .gitignore create mode 100644 .readthedocs.yml create mode 100644 LICENSE create mode 100644 Makefile create mode 100644 README.md create mode 100644 Snakefile create mode 120000 binder/environment.yml create mode 100644 data/LICENSE_TEXTS.md create mode 100644 data/abyss.txt create mode 100644 data/isles.txt create mode 100644 data/last.txt create mode 100644 data/sierra.txt create mode 100644 doc/conf.py create mode 100644 doc/credit.rst create mode 100644 doc/dependencies.rst create mode 100644 doc/exercises.rst create mode 100644 doc/index.rst create mode 100644 doc/purpose.rst create mode 100644 doc/usage.rst create mode 100644 environment.yml create mode 100644 manuscript/.gitkeep create mode 100644 matplotlibrc create mode 100644 processed_data/.gitkeep create mode 100644 results/.gitkeep create mode 100644 source/plotcount.py create mode 100644 source/wordcount.py create mode 100644 source/zipf_test.py diff --git a/.gitignore b/.gitignore new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b82285 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitignore @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +*~ +__pycache__/ +_build/ +venv/ +results/*.png +results/*.txt +processed_data/*.dat diff --git a/.readthedocs.yml b/.readthedocs.yml new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f8d9a3b --- /dev/null +++ b/.readthedocs.yml @@ -0,0 +1,13 @@ +# .readthedocs.yml +# Read the Docs configuration file +# See https://docs.readthedocs.io/en/stable/config-file/v2.html for details + +# Required +version: 2 + +# Build documentation in the docs/ directory with Sphinx +sphinx: + configuration: doc/conf.py + +# Optionally build your docs in additional formats such as PDF and ePub +formats: all diff --git a/LICENSE b/LICENSE new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc5bbcb --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +MIT License + +Copyright (c) 2019, CodeRefinery + +Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy +of this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal +in the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights +to use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell +copies of the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is +furnished to do so, subject to the following conditions: + +The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all +copies or substantial portions of the Software. + +THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR +IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, +FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE +AUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER +LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM, +OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE +SOFTWARE. diff --git a/Makefile b/Makefile new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9ff223 --- /dev/null +++ b/Makefile @@ -0,0 +1,34 @@ +# directory containing source data +SRCDIR := data + +# directory containing intermediate data +TMPDIR := processed_data + +# results directory +RESDIR := results + +# all source files (book texts) +SRCS = $(wildcard $(SRCDIR)/*.txt) + +# all intermediate data files +DATA = $(patsubst $(SRCDIR)/%.txt,$(TMPDIR)/%.dat,$(SRCS)) + +# all images +IMAGES = $(patsubst $(SRCDIR)/%.txt,$(RESDIR)/%.png,$(SRCS)) + +all: $(DATA) $(IMAGES) $(RESDIR)/results.txt + +$(TMPDIR)/%.dat: $(SRCDIR)/%.txt source/wordcount.py + python source/wordcount.py $< $@ + +$(RESDIR)/%.png: $(TMPDIR)/%.dat source/plotcount.py + python source/plotcount.py $< $@ + +$(RESDIR)/results.txt: $(DATA) source/zipf_test.py + python source/zipf_test.py $(DATA) > $@ + +clean: + @$(RM) $(TMPDIR)/* + @$(RM) $(RESDIR)/* + +.PHONY: clean directories diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f3f954 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +[![Binder](https://mybinder.org/badge_logo.svg)](https://mybinder.org/v2/gh/coderefinery/word-count/HEAD) + +# Word count example + +These programs will count words in a given text, plot a bar chart of the 10 +most common words, and test [Zipf's +law](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zipf%27s_law) on the two most common words. + +- Inspired by and derived from https://hpc-carpentry.github.io/hpc-python/ + which is distributed under + [Creative Commons Attribution license (CC-BY 4.0)](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). +- Documentation: https://word-count.readthedocs.io + +We use this example in two [CodeRefinery](https://coderefinery.org/) lessons: +- https://coderefinery.github.io/reproducible-research/ +- https://coderefinery.github.io/documentation/ diff --git a/Snakefile b/Snakefile new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca8ab0b --- /dev/null +++ b/Snakefile @@ -0,0 +1,49 @@ +# a list of all the books we are analyzing +DATA = glob_wildcards('data/{book}.txt').book + +# this is for running on HPC resources +localrules: all, make_archive + +# the default rule +rule all: + input: + 'zipf_analysis.tar.gz' + +# count words in one of our books +# logfiles from each run are put in .log files" +rule count_words: + input: + wc='source/wordcount.py', + book='data/{file}.txt' + output: 'processed_data/{file}.dat' + threads: 4 + log: 'processed_data/{file}.log' + shell: + ''' + python {input.wc} {input.book} {output} >> {log} 2>&1 + ''' + +# create a plot for each book +rule make_plot: + input: + plotcount='source/plotcount.py', + book='processed_data/{file}.dat' + output: 'results/{file}.png' + shell: 'python {input.plotcount} {input.book} {output}' + +# generate summary table +rule zipf_test: + input: + zipf='source/zipf_test.py', + books=expand('processed_data/{book}.dat', book=DATA) + output: 'results/results.txt' + shell: 'python {input.zipf} {input.books} > {output}' + +# create an archive with all of our results +rule make_archive: + input: + expand('results/{book}.png', book=DATA), + expand('processed_data/{book}.dat', book=DATA), + 'results/results.txt' + output: 'zipf_analysis.tar.gz' + shell: 'tar -czvf {output} {input}' diff --git a/binder/environment.yml b/binder/environment.yml new file mode 120000 index 0000000..7a9c790 --- /dev/null +++ b/binder/environment.yml @@ -0,0 +1 @@ +../environment.yml \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/data/LICENSE_TEXTS.md b/data/LICENSE_TEXTS.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d15632 --- /dev/null +++ b/data/LICENSE_TEXTS.md @@ -0,0 +1,338 @@ +A Note on the Texts' Licensing +============================== + +Each text is from [Project Gutenberg](http://www.gutenberg.org/). + +Headers and footers have been removed for the purposes of this +exercise. 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I was open to be convinced by +the evidence of my eyes, rather than by the teachings of those who had +not seen, or by the words of those who had seen and gone before. Further, +I took with me certain simple criteria with which to measure the life of +the under-world. That which made for more life, for physical and +spiritual health, was good; that which made for less life, which hurt, +and dwarfed, and distorted life, was bad. + +It will be readily apparent to the reader that I saw much that was bad. +Yet it must not be forgotten that the time of which I write was +considered "good times" in England. The starvation and lack of shelter I +encountered constituted a chronic condition of misery which is never +wiped out, even in the periods of greatest prosperity. + +Following the summer in question came a hard winter. Great numbers of +the unemployed formed into processions, as many as a dozen at a time, and +daily marched through the streets of London crying for bread. Mr. Justin +McCarthy, writing in the month of January 1903, to the New York +_Independent_, briefly epitomises the situation as follows:- + + "The workhouses have no space left in which to pack the starving + crowds who are craving every day and night at their doors for food and + shelter. All the charitable institutions have exhausted their means + in trying to raise supplies of food for the famishing residents of the + garrets and cellars of London lanes and alleys. The quarters of the + Salvation Army in various parts of London are nightly besieged by + hosts of the unemployed and the hungry for whom neither shelter nor + the means of sustenance can be provided." + +It has been urged that the criticism I have passed on things as they are +in England is too pessimistic. I must say, in extenuation, that of +optimists I am the most optimistic. But I measure manhood less by +political aggregations than by individuals. Society grows, while +political machines rack to pieces and become "scrap." For the English, +so far as manhood and womanhood and health and happiness go, I see a +broad and smiling future. But for a great deal of the political +machinery, which at present mismanages for them, I see nothing else than +the scrap heap. + +JACK LONDON. +PIEDMONT, CALIFORNIA. + + + + +CHAPTER I--THE DESCENT + + +"But you can't do it, you know," friends said, to whom I applied for +assistance in the matter of sinking myself down into the East End of +London. "You had better see the police for a guide," they added, on +second thought, painfully endeavouring to adjust themselves to the +psychological processes of a madman who had come to them with better +credentials than brains. + +"But I don't want to see the police," I protested. "What I wish to do is +to go down into the East End and see things for myself. I wish to know +how those people are living there, and why they are living there, and +what they are living for. In short, I am going to live there myself." + +"You don't want to _live_ down there!" everybody said, with +disapprobation writ large upon their faces. "Why, it is said there are +places where a man's life isn't worth tu'pence." + +"The very places I wish to see," I broke in. + +"But you can't, you know," was the unfailing rejoinder. + +"Which is not what I came to see you about," I answered brusquely, +somewhat nettled by their incomprehension. "I am a stranger here, and I +want you to tell me what you know of the East End, in order that I may +have something to start on." + +"But we know nothing of the East End. It is over there, somewhere." And +they waved their hands vaguely in the direction where the sun on rare +occasions may be seen to rise. + +"Then I shall go to Cook's," I announced. + +"Oh yes," they said, with relief. "Cook's will be sure to know." + +But O Cook, O Thomas Cook & Son, path-finders and trail-clearers, living +sign-posts to all the world, and bestowers of first aid to bewildered +travellers--unhesitatingly and instantly, with ease and celerity, could +you send me to Darkest Africa or Innermost Thibet, but to the East End of +London, barely a stone's throw distant from Ludgate Circus, you know not +the way! + +"You can't do it, you know," said the human emporium of routes and fares +at Cook's Cheapside branch. "It is so--hem--so unusual." + +"Consult the police," he concluded authoritatively, when I had persisted. +"We are not accustomed to taking travellers to the East End; we receive +no call to take them there, and we know nothing whatsoever about the +place at all." + +"Never mind that," I interposed, to save myself from being swept out of +the office by his flood of negations. "Here's something you can do for +me. I wish you to understand in advance what I intend doing, so that in +case of trouble you may be able to identify me." + +"Ah, I see! should you be murdered, we would be in position to identify +the corpse." + +He said it so cheerfully and cold-bloodedly that on the instant I saw my +stark and mutilated cadaver stretched upon a slab where cool waters +trickle ceaselessly, and him I saw bending over and sadly and patiently +identifying it as the body of the insane American who _would_ see the +East End. + +"No, no," I answered; "merely to identify me in case I get into a scrape +with the 'bobbies.'" This last I said with a thrill; truly, I was +gripping hold of the vernacular. + +"That," he said, "is a matter for the consideration of the Chief Office." + +"It is so unprecedented, you know," he added apologetically. + +The man at the Chief Office hemmed and hawed. "We make it a rule," he +explained, "to give no information concerning our clients." + +"But in this case," I urged, "it is the client who requests you to give +the information concerning himself." + +Again he hemmed and hawed. + +"Of course," I hastily anticipated, "I know it is unprecedented, but--" + +"As I was about to remark," he went on steadily, "it is unprecedented, +and I don't think we can do anything for you." + +However, I departed with the address of a detective who lived in the East +End, and took my way to the American consul-general. And here, at last, +I found a man with whom I could "do business." There was no hemming and +hawing, no lifted brows, open incredulity, or blank amazement. In one +minute I explained myself and my project, which he accepted as a matter +of course. In the second minute he asked my age, height, and weight, and +looked me over. And in the third minute, as we shook hands at parting, +he said: "All right, Jack. I'll remember you and keep track." + +I breathed a sigh of relief. Having burnt my ships behind me, I was now +free to plunge into that human wilderness of which nobody seemed to know +anything. But at once I encountered a new difficulty in the shape of my +cabby, a grey-whiskered and eminently decorous personage who had +imperturbably driven me for several hours about the "City." + +"Drive me down to the East End," I ordered, taking my seat. + +"Where, sir?" he demanded with frank surprise. + +"To the East End, anywhere. Go on." + +The hansom pursued an aimless way for several minutes, then came to a +puzzled stop. The aperture above my head was uncovered, and the cabman +peered down perplexedly at me. + +"I say," he said, "wot plyce yer wanter go?" + +"East End," I repeated. "Nowhere in particular. Just drive me around +anywhere." + +"But wot's the haddress, sir?" + +"See here!" I thundered. "Drive me down to the East End, and at once!" + +It was evident that he did not understand, but he withdrew his head, and +grumblingly started his horse. + +Nowhere in the streets of London may one escape the sight of abject +poverty, while five minutes' walk from almost any point will bring one to +a slum; but the region my hansom was now penetrating was one unending +slum. The streets were filled with a new and different race of people, +short of stature, and of wretched or beer-sodden appearance. We rolled +along through miles of bricks and squalor, and from each cross street and +alley flashed long vistas of bricks and misery. Here and there lurched a +drunken man or woman, and the air was obscene with sounds of jangling and +squabbling. At a market, tottery old men and women were searching in the +garbage thrown in the mud for rotten potatoes, beans, and vegetables, +while little children clustered like flies around a festering mass of +fruit, thrusting their arms to the shoulders into the liquid corruption, +and drawing forth morsels but partially decayed, which they devoured on +the spot. + +Not a hansom did I meet with in all my drive, while mine was like an +apparition from another and better world, the way the children ran after +it and alongside. And as far as I could see were the solid walls of +brick, the slimy pavements, and the screaming streets; and for the first +time in my life the fear of the crowd smote me. It was like the fear of +the sea; and the miserable multitudes, street upon street, seemed so many +waves of a vast and malodorous sea, lapping about me and threatening to +well up and over me. + +"Stepney, sir; Stepney Station," the cabby called down. + +I looked about. It was really a railroad station, and he had driven +desperately to it as the one familiar spot he had ever heard of in all +that wilderness. + +"Well," I said. + +He spluttered unintelligibly, shook his head, and looked very miserable. +"I'm a strynger 'ere," he managed to articulate. "An' if yer don't want +Stepney Station, I'm blessed if I know wotcher do want." + +"I'll tell you what I want," I said. "You drive along and keep your eye +out for a shop where old clothes are sold. Now, when you see such a +shop, drive right on till you turn the corner, then stop and let me out." + +I could see that he was growing dubious of his fare, but not long +afterwards he pulled up to the curb and informed me that an old-clothes +shop was to be found a bit of the way back. + +"Won'tcher py me?" he pleaded. "There's seven an' six owin' me." + +"Yes," I laughed, "and it would be the last I'd see of you." + +"Lord lumme, but it'll be the last I see of you if yer don't py me," he +retorted. + +But a crowd of ragged onlookers had already gathered around the cab, and +I laughed again and walked back to the old-clothes shop. + +Here the chief difficulty was in making the shopman understand that I +really and truly wanted old clothes. But after fruitless attempts to +press upon me new and impossible coats and trousers, he began to bring to +light heaps of old ones, looking mysterious the while and hinting darkly. +This he did with the palpable intention of letting me know that he had +"piped my lay," in order to bulldose me, through fear of exposure, into +paying heavily for my purchases. A man in trouble, or a high-class +criminal from across the water, was what he took my measure for--in +either case, a person anxious to avoid the police. + +But I disputed with him over the outrageous difference between prices and +values, till I quite disabused him of the notion, and he settled down to +drive a hard bargain with a hard customer. In the end I selected a pair +of stout though well-worn trousers, a frayed jacket with one remaining +button, a pair of brogans which had plainly seen service where coal was +shovelled, a thin leather belt, and a very dirty cloth cap. My +underclothing and socks, however, were new and warm, but of the sort that +any American waif, down in his luck, could acquire in the ordinary course +of events. + +"I must sy yer a sharp 'un," he said, with counterfeit admiration, as I +handed over the ten shillings finally agreed upon for the outfit. +"Blimey, if you ain't ben up an' down Petticut Lane afore now. Yer +trouseys is wuth five bob to hany man, an' a docker 'ud give two an' six +for the shoes, to sy nothin' of the coat an' cap an' new stoker's singlet +an' hother things." + +"How much will you give me for them?" I demanded suddenly. "I paid you +ten bob for the lot, and I'll sell them back to you, right now, for +eight! Come, it's a go!" + +But he grinned and shook his head, and though I had made a good bargain, +I was unpleasantly aware that he had made a better one. + +I found the cabby and a policeman with their heads together, but the +latter, after looking me over sharply, and particularly scrutinizing the +bundle under my arm, turned away and left the cabby to wax mutinous by +himself. And not a step would he budge till I paid him the seven +shillings and sixpence owing him. Whereupon he was willing to drive me +to the ends of the earth, apologising profusely for his insistence, and +explaining that one ran across queer customers in London Town. + +But he drove me only to Highbury Vale, in North London, where my luggage +was waiting for me. Here, next day, I took off my shoes (not without +regret for their lightness and comfort), and my soft, grey travelling +suit, and, in fact, all my clothing; and proceeded to array myself in the +clothes of the other and unimaginable men, who must have been indeed +unfortunate to have had to part with such rags for the pitiable sums +obtainable from a dealer. + +Inside my stoker's singlet, in the armpit, I sewed a gold sovereign (an +emergency sum certainly of modest proportions); and inside my stoker's +singlet I put myself. And then I sat down and moralised upon the fair +years and fat, which had made my skin soft and brought the nerves close +to the surface; for the singlet was rough and raspy as a hair shirt, and +I am confident that the most rigorous of ascetics suffer no more than I +did in the ensuing twenty-four hours. + +The remainder of my costume was fairly easy to put on, though the +brogans, or brogues, were quite a problem. As stiff and hard as if made +of wood, it was only after a prolonged pounding of the uppers with my +fists that I was able to get my feet into them at all. Then, with a few +shillings, a knife, a handkerchief, and some brown papers and flake +tobacco stowed away in my pockets, I thumped down the stairs and said +good-bye to my foreboding friends. As I paused out of the door, the +"help," a comely middle-aged woman, could not conquer a grin that twisted +her lips and separated them till the throat, out of involuntary sympathy, +made the uncouth animal noises we are wont to designate as "laughter." + +No sooner was I out on the streets than I was impressed by the difference +in status effected by my clothes. All servility vanished from the +demeanour of the common people with whom I came in contact. Presto! in +the twinkling of an eye, so to say, I had become one of them. My frayed +and out-at-elbows jacket was the badge and advertisement of my class, +which was their class. It made me of like kind, and in place of the +fawning and too respectful attention I had hitherto received, I now +shared with them a comradeship. The man in corduroy and dirty +neckerchief no longer addressed me as "sir" or "governor." It was "mate" +now--and a fine and hearty word, with a tingle to it, and a warmth and +gladness, which the other term does not possess. Governor! It smacks of +mastery, and power, and high authority--the tribute of the man who is +under to the man on top, delivered in the hope that he will let up a bit +and ease his weight, which is another way of saying that it is an appeal +for alms. + +This brings me to a delight I experienced in my rags and tatters which is +denied the average American abroad. The European traveller from the +States, who is not a Croesus, speedily finds himself reduced to a chronic +state of self-conscious sordidness by the hordes of cringing robbers who +clutter his steps from dawn till dark, and deplete his pocket-book in a +way that puts compound interest to the blush. + +In my rags and tatters I escaped the pestilence of tipping, and +encountered men on a basis of equality. Nay, before the day was out I +turned the tables, and said, most gratefully, "Thank you, sir," to a +gentleman whose horse I held, and who dropped a penny into my eager palm. + +Other changes I discovered were wrought in my condition by my new garb. +In crossing crowded thoroughfares I found I had to be, if anything, more +lively in avoiding vehicles, and it was strikingly impressed upon me that +my life had cheapened in direct ratio with my clothes. When before I +inquired the way of a policeman, I was usually asked, "Bus or 'ansom, +sir?" But now the query became, "Walk or ride?" Also, at the railway +stations, a third-class ticket was now shoved out to me as a matter of +course. + +But there was compensation for it all. For the first time I met the +English lower classes face to face, and knew them for what they were. +When loungers and workmen, at street corners and in public-houses, talked +with me, they talked as one man to another, and they talked as natural +men should talk, without the least idea of getting anything out of me for +what they talked or the way they talked. + +And when at last I made into the East End, I was gratified to find that +the fear of the crowd no longer haunted me. I had become a part of it. +The vast and malodorous sea had welled up and over me, or I had slipped +gently into it, and there was nothing fearsome about it--with the one +exception of the stoker's singlet. + + + + +CHAPTER II--JOHNNY UPRIGHT + + +I shall not give you the address of Johnny Upright. Let it suffice that +he lives in the most respectable street in the East End--a street that +would be considered very mean in America, but a veritable oasis in the +desert of East London. It is surrounded on every side by close-packed +squalor and streets jammed by a young and vile and dirty generation; but +its own pavements are comparatively bare of the children who have no +other place to play, while it has an air of desertion, so few are the +people that come and go. + +Each house in this street, as in all the streets, is shoulder to shoulder +with its neighbours. To each house there is but one entrance, the front +door; and each house is about eighteen feet wide, with a bit of a brick- +walled yard behind, where, when it is not raining, one may look at a +slate-coloured sky. But it must be understood that this is East End +opulence we are now considering. Some of the people in this street are +even so well-to-do as to keep a "slavey." Johnny Upright keeps one, as I +well know, she being my first acquaintance in this particular portion of +the world. + +To Johnny Upright's house I came, and to the door came the "slavey." Now, +mark you, her position in life was pitiable and contemptible, but it was +with pity and contempt that she looked at me. She evinced a plain desire +that our conversation should be short. It was Sunday, and Johnny Upright +was not at home, and that was all there was to it. But I lingered, +discussing whether or not it was all there was to it, till Mrs. Johnny +Upright was attracted to the door, where she scolded the girl for not +having closed it before turning her attention to me. + +No, Mr. Johnny Upright was not at home, and further, he saw nobody on +Sunday. It is too bad, said I. Was I looking for work? No, quite the +contrary; in fact, I had come to see Johnny Upright on business which +might be profitable to him. + +A change came over the face of things at once. The gentleman in question +was at church, but would be home in an hour or thereabouts, when no doubt +he could be seen. + +Would I kindly step in?--no, the lady did not ask me, though I fished for +an invitation by stating that I would go down to the corner and wait in a +public-house. And down to the corner I went, but, it being church time, +the "pub" was closed. A miserable drizzle was falling, and, in lieu of +better, I took a seat on a neighbourly doorstep and waited. + +And here to the doorstep came the "slavey," very frowzy and very +perplexed, to tell me that the missus would let me come back and wait in +the kitchen. + +"So many people come 'ere lookin' for work," Mrs. Johnny Upright +apologetically explained. "So I 'ope you won't feel bad the way I +spoke." + +"Not at all, not at all," I replied in my grandest manner, for the nonce +investing my rags with dignity. "I quite understand, I assure you. I +suppose people looking for work almost worry you to death?" + +"That they do," she answered, with an eloquent and expressive glance; and +thereupon ushered me into, not the kitchen, but the dining room--a +favour, I took it, in recompense for my grand manner. + +This dining-room, on the same floor as the kitchen, was about four feet +below the level of the ground, and so dark (it was midday) that I had to +wait a space for my eyes to adjust themselves to the gloom. Dirty light +filtered in through a window, the top of which was on a level with a +sidewalk, and in this light I found that I was able to read newspaper +print. + +And here, while waiting the coming of Johnny Upright, let me explain my +errand. While living, eating, and sleeping with the people of the East +End, it was my intention to have a port of refuge, not too far distant, +into which could run now and again to assure myself that good clothes and +cleanliness still existed. Also in such port I could receive my mail, +work up my notes, and sally forth occasionally in changed garb to +civilisation. + +But this involved a dilemma. A lodging where my property would be safe +implied a landlady apt to be suspicious of a gentleman leading a double +life; while a landlady who would not bother her head over the double life +of her lodgers would imply lodgings where property was unsafe. To avoid +the dilemma was what had brought me to Johnny Upright. A detective of +thirty-odd years' continuous service in the East End, known far and wide +by a name given him by a convicted felon in the dock, he was just the man +to find me an honest landlady, and make her rest easy concerning the +strange comings and goings of which I might be guilty. + +His two daughters beat him home from church--and pretty girls they were +in their Sunday dresses; withal it was the certain weak and delicate +prettiness which characterises the Cockney lasses, a prettiness which is +no more than a promise with no grip on time, and doomed to fade quickly +away like the colour from a sunset sky. + +They looked me over with frank curiosity, as though I were some sort of a +strange animal, and then ignored me utterly for the rest of my wait. Then +Johnny Upright himself arrived, and I was summoned upstairs to confer +with him. + +"Speak loud," he interrupted my opening words. "I've got a bad cold, and +I can't hear well." + +Shades of Old Sleuth and Sherlock Holmes! I wondered as to where the +assistant was located whose duty it was to take down whatever information +I might loudly vouchsafe. And to this day, much as I have seen of Johnny +Upright and much as I have puzzled over the incident, I have never been +quite able to make up my mind as to whether or not he had a cold, or had +an assistant planted in the other room. But of one thing I am sure: +though I gave Johnny Upright the facts concerning myself and project, he +withheld judgment till next day, when I dodged into his street +conventionally garbed and in a hansom. Then his greeting was cordial +enough, and I went down into the dining-room to join the family at tea. + +"We are humble here," he said, "not given to the flesh, and you must take +us for what we are, in our humble way." + +The girls were flushed and embarrassed at greeting me, while he did not +make it any the easier for them. + +"Ha! ha!" he roared heartily, slapping the table with his open hand till +the dishes rang. "The girls thought yesterday you had come to ask for a +piece of bread! Ha! ha! ho! ho! ho!" + +This they indignantly denied, with snapping eyes and guilty red cheeks, +as though it were an essential of true refinement to be able to discern +under his rags a man who had no need to go ragged. + +And then, while I ate bread and marmalade, proceeded a play at cross +purposes, the daughters deeming it an insult to me that I should have +been mistaken for a beggar, and the father considering it as the highest +compliment to my cleverness to succeed in being so mistaken. All of +which I enjoyed, and the bread, the marmalade, and the tea, till the time +came for Johnny Upright to find me a lodging, which he did, not half-a- +dozen doors away, in his own respectable and opulent street, in a house +as like to his own as a pea to its mate. + + + + +CHAPTER III--MY LODGING AND SOME OTHERS + + +From an East London standpoint, the room I rented for six shillings, or a +dollar and a half, per week, was a most comfortable affair. From the +American standpoint, on the other hand, it was rudely furnished, +uncomfortable, and small. By the time I had added an ordinary typewriter +table to its scanty furnishing, I was hard put to turn around; at the +best, I managed to navigate it by a sort of vermicular progression +requiring great dexterity and presence of mind. + +Having settled myself, or my property rather, I put on my knockabout +clothes and went out for a walk. Lodgings being fresh in my mind, I +began to look them up, bearing in mind the hypothesis that I was a poor +young man with a wife and large family. + +My first discovery was that empty houses were few and far between--so far +between, in fact, that though I walked miles in irregular circles over a +large area, I still remained between. Not one empty house could I find--a +conclusive proof that the district was "saturated." + +It being plain that as a poor young man with a family I could rent no +houses at all in this most undesirable region, I next looked for rooms, +unfurnished rooms, in which I could store my wife and babies and +chattels. There were not many, but I found them, usually in the +singular, for one appears to be considered sufficient for a poor man's +family in which to cook and eat and sleep. When I asked for two rooms, +the sublettees looked at me very much in the manner, I imagine, that a +certain personage looked at Oliver Twist when he asked for more. + +Not only was one room deemed sufficient for a poor man and his family, +but I learned that many families, occupying single rooms, had so much +space to spare as to be able to take in a lodger or two. When such rooms +can be rented for from three to six shillings per week, it is a fair +conclusion that a lodger with references should obtain floor space for, +say, from eightpence to a shilling. He may even be able to board with +the sublettees for a few shillings more. This, however, I failed to +inquire into--a reprehensible error on my part, considering that I was +working on the basis of a hypothetical family. + +Not only did the houses I investigated have no bath-tubs, but I learned +that there were no bath-tubs in all the thousands of houses I had seen. +Under the circumstances, with my wife and babies and a couple of lodgers +suffering from the too great spaciousness of one room, taking a bath in a +tin wash-basin would be an unfeasible undertaking. But, it seems, the +compensation comes in with the saving of soap, so all's well, and God's +still in heaven. + +However, I rented no rooms, but returned to my own Johnny Upright's +street. What with my wife, and babies, and lodgers, and the various +cubby-holes into which I had fitted them, my mind's eye had become narrow- +angled, and I could not quite take in all of my own room at once. The +immensity of it was awe-inspiring. Could this be the room I had rented +for six shillings a week? Impossible! But my landlady, knocking at the +door to learn if I were comfortable, dispelled my doubts. + +"Oh yes, sir," she said, in reply to a question. "This street is the +very last. All the other streets were like this eight or ten years ago, +and all the people were very respectable. But the others have driven our +kind out. Those in this street are the only ones left. It's shocking, +sir!" + +And then she explained the process of saturation, by which the rental +value of a neighbourhood went up, while its tone went down. + +"You see, sir, our kind are not used to crowding in the way the others +do. We need more room. The others, the foreigners and lower-class +people, can get five and six families into this house, where we only get +one. So they can pay more rent for the house than we can afford. It +_is_ shocking, sir; and just to think, only a few years ago all this +neighbourhood was just as nice as it could be." + +I looked at her. Here was a woman, of the finest grade of the English +working-class, with numerous evidences of refinement, being slowly +engulfed by that noisome and rotten tide of humanity which the powers +that be are pouring eastward out of London Town. Bank, factory, hotel, +and office building must go up, and the city poor folk are a nomadic +breed; so they migrate eastward, wave upon wave, saturating and degrading +neighbourhood by neighbourhood, driving the better class of workers +before them to pioneer, on the rim of the city, or dragging them down, if +not in the first generation, surely in the second and third. + +It is only a question of months when Johnny Upright's street must go. He +realises it himself. + +"In a couple of years," he says, "my lease expires. My landlord is one +of our kind. He has not put up the rent on any of his houses here, and +this has enabled us to stay. But any day he may sell, or any day he may +die, which is the same thing so far as we are concerned. The house is +bought by a money breeder, who builds a sweat shop on the patch of ground +at the rear where my grapevine is, adds to the house, and rents it a room +to a family. There you are, and Johnny Upright's gone!" + +And truly I saw Johnny Upright, and his good wife and fair daughters, and +frowzy slavey, like so many ghosts flitting eastward through the gloom, +the monster city roaring at their heels. + +But Johnny Upright is not alone in his flitting. Far, far out, on the +fringe of the city, live the small business men, little managers, and +successful clerks. They dwell in cottages and semi-detached villas, with +bits of flower garden, and elbow room, and breathing space. They inflate +themselves with pride, and throw out their chests when they contemplate +the Abyss from which they have escaped, and they thank God that they are +not as other men. And lo! down upon them comes Johnny Upright and the +monster city at his heels. Tenements spring up like magic, gardens are +built upon, villas are divided and subdivided into many dwellings, and +the black night of London settles down in a greasy pall. + + + + +CHAPTER IV--A MAN AND THE ABYSS + + +"I say, can you let a lodging?" + +These words I discharged carelessly over my shoulder at a stout and +elderly woman, of whose fare I was partaking in a greasy coffee-house +down near the Pool and not very far from Limehouse. + +"Oh yus," she answered shortly, my appearance possibly not approximating +the standard of affluence required by her house. + +I said no more, consuming my rasher of bacon and pint of sickly tea in +silence. Nor did she take further interest in me till I came to pay my +reckoning (fourpence), when I pulled all of ten shillings out of my +pocket. The expected result was produced. + +"Yus, sir," she at once volunteered; "I 'ave nice lodgin's you'd likely +tyke a fancy to. Back from a voyage, sir?" + +"How much for a room?" I inquired, ignoring her curiosity. + +She looked me up and down with frank surprise. "I don't let rooms, not +to my reg'lar lodgers, much less casuals." + +"Then I'll have to look along a bit," I said, with marked disappointment. + +But the sight of my ten shillings had made her keen. "I can let you have +a nice bed in with two hother men," she urged. "Good, respectable men, +an' steady." + +"But I don't want to sleep with two other men," I objected. + +"You don't 'ave to. There's three beds in the room, an' hit's not a very +small room." + +"How much?" I demanded. + +"'Arf a crown a week, two an' six, to a regular lodger. You'll fancy the +men, I'm sure. One works in the ware'ouse, an' 'e's been with me two +years now. An' the hother's bin with me six--six years, sir, an' two +months comin' nex' Saturday. 'E's a scene-shifter," she went on. "A +steady, respectable man, never missin' a night's work in the time 'e's +bin with me. An' 'e likes the 'ouse; 'e says as it's the best 'e can do +in the w'y of lodgin's. I board 'im, an' the hother lodgers too." + +"I suppose he's saving money right along," I insinuated innocently. + +"Bless you, no! Nor can 'e do as well helsewhere with 'is money." + +And I thought of my own spacious West, with room under its sky and +unlimited air for a thousand Londons; and here was this man, a steady and +reliable man, never missing a night's work, frugal and honest, lodging in +one room with two other men, paying two dollars and a half per month for +it, and out of his experience adjudging it to be the best he could do! +And here was I, on the strength of the ten shillings in my pocket, able +to enter in with my rags and take up my bed with him. The human soul is +a lonely thing, but it must be very lonely sometimes when there are three +beds to a room, and casuals with ten shillings are admitted. + +"How long have you been here?" I asked. + +"Thirteen years, sir; an' don't you think you'll fancy the lodgin'?" + +The while she talked she was shuffling ponderously about the small +kitchen in which she cooked the food for her lodgers who were also +boarders. When I first entered, she had been hard at work, nor had she +let up once throughout the conversation. Undoubtedly she was a busy +woman. "Up at half-past five," "to bed the last thing at night," +"workin' fit ter drop," thirteen years of it, and for reward, grey hairs, +frowzy clothes, stooped shoulders, slatternly figure, unending toil in a +foul and noisome coffee-house that faced on an alley ten feet between the +walls, and a waterside environment that was ugly and sickening, to say +the least. + +"You'll be hin hagain to 'ave a look?" she questioned wistfully, as I +went out of the door. + +And as I turned and looked at her, I realized to the full the deeper +truth underlying that very wise old maxim: "Virtue is its own reward." + +I went back to her. "Have you ever taken a vacation?" I asked. + +"Vycytion!" + +"A trip to the country for a couple of days, fresh air, a day off, you +know, a rest." + +"Lor' lumme!" she laughed, for the first time stopping from her work. "A +vycytion, eh? for the likes o' me? Just fancy, now!--Mind yer +feet!"--this last sharply, and to me, as I stumbled over the rotten +threshold. + +Down near the West India Dock I came upon a young fellow staring +disconsolately at the muddy water. A fireman's cap was pulled down +across his eyes, and the fit and sag of his clothes whispered +unmistakably of the sea. + +"Hello, mate," I greeted him, sparring for a beginning. "Can you tell me +the way to Wapping?" + +"Worked yer way over on a cattle boat?" he countered, fixing my +nationality on the instant. + +And thereupon we entered upon a talk that extended itself to a public- +house and a couple of pints of "arf an' arf." This led to closer +intimacy, so that when I brought to light all of a shilling's worth of +coppers (ostensibly my all), and put aside sixpence for a bed, and +sixpence for more arf an' arf, he generously proposed that we drink up +the whole shilling. + +"My mate, 'e cut up rough las' night," he explained. "An' the bobbies +got 'm, so you can bunk in wi' me. Wotcher say?" + +I said yes, and by the time we had soaked ourselves in a whole shilling's +worth of beer, and slept the night on a miserable bed in a miserable den, +I knew him pretty fairly for what he was. And that in one respect he was +representative of a large body of the lower-class London workman, my +later experience substantiates. + +He was London-born, his father a fireman and a drinker before him. As a +child, his home was the streets and the docks. He had never learned to +read, and had never felt the need for it--a vain and useless +accomplishment, he held, at least for a man of his station in life. + +He had had a mother and numerous squalling brothers and sisters, all +crammed into a couple of rooms and living on poorer and less regular food +than he could ordinarily rustle for himself. In fact, he never went home +except at periods when he was unfortunate in procuring his own food. +Petty pilfering and begging along the streets and docks, a trip or two to +sea as mess-boy, a few trips more as coal-trimmer, and then a +full-fledged fireman, he had reached the top of his life. + +And in the course of this he had also hammered out a philosophy of life, +an ugly and repulsive philosophy, but withal a very logical and sensible +one from his point of view. When I asked him what he lived for, he +immediately answered, "Booze." A voyage to sea (for a man must live and +get the wherewithal), and then the paying off and the big drunk at the +end. After that, haphazard little drunks, sponged in the "pubs" from +mates with a few coppers left, like myself, and when sponging was played +out another trip to sea and a repetition of the beastly cycle. + +"But women," I suggested, when he had finished proclaiming booze the sole +end of existence. + +"Wimmen!" He thumped his pot upon the bar and orated eloquently. "Wimmen +is a thing my edication 'as learnt me t' let alone. It don't pay, matey; +it don't pay. Wot's a man like me want o' wimmen, eh? jest you tell me. +There was my mar, she was enough, a-bangin' the kids about an' makin' the +ole man mis'rable when 'e come 'ome, w'ich was seldom, I grant. An' fer +w'y? Becos o' mar! She didn't make 'is 'ome 'appy, that was w'y. Then, +there's the other wimmen, 'ow do they treat a pore stoker with a few +shillin's in 'is trouseys? A good drunk is wot 'e's got in 'is pockits, +a good long drunk, an' the wimmen skin 'im out of his money so quick 'e +ain't 'ad 'ardly a glass. I know. I've 'ad my fling, an' I know wot's +wot. An' I tell you, where's wimmen is trouble--screechin' an' carryin' +on, fightin', cuttin', bobbies, magistrates, an' a month's 'ard labour +back of it all, an' no pay-day when you come out." + +"But a wife and children," I insisted. "A home of your own, and all +that. Think of it, back from a voyage, little children climbing on your +knee, and the wife happy and smiling, and a kiss for you when she lays +the table, and a kiss all round from the babies when they go to bed, and +the kettle singing and the long talk afterwards of where you've been and +what you've seen, and of her and all the little happenings at home while +you've been away, and--" + +"Garn!" he cried, with a playful shove of his fist on my shoulder. "Wot's +yer game, eh? A missus kissin' an' kids clim'in', an' kettle singin', +all on four poun' ten a month w'en you 'ave a ship, an' four nothin' w'en +you 'aven't. I'll tell you wot I'd get on four poun' ten--a missus +rowin', kids squallin', no coal t' make the kettle sing, an' the kettle +up the spout, that's wot I'd get. Enough t' make a bloke bloomin' well +glad to be back t' sea. A missus! Wot for? T' make you mis'rable? +Kids? Jest take my counsel, matey, an' don't 'ave 'em. Look at me! I +can 'ave my beer w'en I like, an' no blessed missus an' kids a-crying for +bread. I'm 'appy, I am, with my beer an' mates like you, an' a good ship +comin', an' another trip to sea. So I say, let's 'ave another pint. Arf +an' arf's good enough for me." + +Without going further with the speech of this young fellow of two-and- +twenty, I think I have sufficiently indicated his philosophy of life and +the underlying economic reason for it. Home life he had never known. The +word "home" aroused nothing but unpleasant associations. In the low +wages of his father, and of other men in the same walk in life, he found +sufficient reason for branding wife and children as encumbrances and +causes of masculine misery. An unconscious hedonist, utterly unmoral and +materialistic, he sought the greatest possible happiness for himself, and +found it in drink. + +A young sot; a premature wreck; physical inability to do a stoker's work; +the gutter or the workhouse; and the end--he saw it all as clearly as I, +but it held no terrors for him. From the moment of his birth, all the +forces of his environment had tended to harden him, and he viewed his +wretched, inevitable future with a callousness and unconcern I could not +shake. + +And yet he was not a bad man. He was not inherently vicious and brutal. +He had normal mentality, and a more than average physique. His eyes were +blue and round, shaded by long lashes, and wide apart. And there was a +laugh in them, and a fund of humour behind. The brow and general +features were good, the mouth and lips sweet, though already developing a +harsh twist. The chin was weak, but not too weak; I have seen men +sitting in the high places with weaker. + +His head was shapely, and so gracefully was it poised upon a perfect neck +that I was not surprised by his body that night when he stripped for bed. +I have seen many men strip, in gymnasium and training quarters, men of +good blood and upbringing, but I have never seen one who stripped to +better advantage than this young sot of two-and-twenty, this young god +doomed to rack and ruin in four or five short years, and to pass hence +without posterity to receive the splendid heritage it was his to +bequeath. + +It seemed sacrilege to waste such life, and yet I was forced to confess +that he was right in not marrying on four pounds ten in London Town. Just +as the scene-shifter was happier in making both ends meet in a room +shared with two other men, than he would have been had he packed a feeble +family along with a couple of men into a cheaper room, and failed in +making both ends meet. + +And day by day I became convinced that not only is it unwise, but it is +criminal for the people of the Abyss to marry. They are the stones by +the builder rejected. There is no place for them, in the social fabric, +while all the forces of society drive them downward till they perish. At +the bottom of the Abyss they are feeble, besotted, and imbecile. If they +reproduce, the life is so cheap that perforce it perishes of itself. The +work of the world goes on above them, and they do not care to take part +in it, nor are they able. Moreover, the work of the world does not need +them. There are plenty, far fitter than they, clinging to the steep +slope above, and struggling frantically to slide no more. + +In short, the London Abyss is a vast shambles. Year by year, and decade +after decade, rural England pours in a flood of vigorous strong life, +that not only does not renew itself, but perishes by the third +generation. Competent authorities aver that the London workman whose +parents and grand-parents were born in London is so remarkable a specimen +that he is rarely found. + +Mr. A. C. Pigou has said that the aged poor, and the residuum which +compose the "submerged tenth," constitute 71 per cent, of the population +of London. Which is to say that last year, and yesterday, and to-day, at +this very moment, 450,000 of these creatures are dying miserably at the +bottom of the social pit called "London." As to how they die, I shall +take an instance from this morning's paper. + + SELF-NEGLECT + + Yesterday Dr. Wynn Westcott held an inquest at Shoreditch, respecting + the death of Elizabeth Crews, aged 77 years, of 32 East Street, + Holborn, who died on Wednesday last. Alice Mathieson stated that she + was landlady of the house where deceased lived. Witness last saw her + alive on the previous Monday. She lived quite alone. Mr. Francis + Birch, relieving officer for the Holborn district, stated that + deceased had occupied the room in question for thirty-five years. When + witness was called, on the 1st, he found the old woman in a terrible + state, and the ambulance and coachman had to be disinfected after the + removal. Dr. Chase Fennell said death was due to blood-poisoning from + bed-sores, due to self-neglect and filthy surroundings, and the jury + returned a verdict to that effect. + +The most startling thing about this little incident of a woman's death is +the smug complacency with which the officials looked upon it and rendered +judgment. That an old woman of seventy-seven years of age should die of +SELF-NEGLECT is the most optimistic way possible of looking at it. It +was the old dead woman's fault that she died, and having located the +responsibility, society goes contentedly on about its own affairs. + +Of the "submerged tenth" Mr. Pigou has said: "Either through lack of +bodily strength, or of intelligence, or of fibre, or of all three, they +are inefficient or unwilling workers, and consequently unable to support +themselves . . . They are often so degraded in intellect as to be +incapable of distinguishing their right from their left hand, or of +recognising the numbers of their own houses; their bodies are feeble and +without stamina, their affections are warped, and they scarcely know what +family life means." + +Four hundred and fifty thousand is a whole lot of people. The young +fireman was only one, and it took him some time to say his little say. I +should not like to hear them all talk at once. I wonder if God hears +them? + + + + +CHAPTER V--THOSE ON THE EDGE + + +My first impression of East London was naturally a general one. Later +the details began to appear, and here and there in the chaos of misery I +found little spots where a fair measure of happiness reigned--sometimes +whole rows of houses in little out-of-the-way streets, where artisans +dwell and where a rude sort of family life obtains. In the evenings the +men can be seen at the doors, pipes in their mouths and children on their +knees, wives gossiping, and laughter and fun going on. The content of +these people is manifestly great, for, relative to the wretchedness that +encompasses them, they are well off. + +But at the best, it is a dull, animal happiness, the content of the full +belly. The dominant note of their lives is materialistic. They are +stupid and heavy, without imagination. The Abyss seems to exude a +stupefying atmosphere of torpor, which wraps about them and deadens them. +Religion passes them by. The Unseen holds for them neither terror nor +delight. They are unaware of the Unseen; and the full belly and the +evening pipe, with their regular "arf an' arf," is all they demand, or +dream of demanding, from existence. + +This would not be so bad if it were all; but it is not all. The +satisfied torpor in which they are sunk is the deadly inertia that +precedes dissolution. There is no progress, and with them not to +progress is to fall back and into the Abyss. In their own lives they may +only start to fall, leaving the fall to be completed by their children +and their children's children. Man always gets less than he demands from +life; and so little do they demand, that the less than little they get +cannot save them. + +At the best, city life is an unnatural life for the human; but the city +life of London is so utterly unnatural that the average workman or +workwoman cannot stand it. Mind and body are sapped by the undermining +influences ceaselessly at work. Moral and physical stamina are broken, +and the good workman, fresh from the soil, becomes in the first city +generation a poor workman; and by the second city generation, devoid of +push and go and initiative, and actually unable physically to perform the +labour his father did, he is well on the way to the shambles at the +bottom of the Abyss. + +If nothing else, the air he breathes, and from which he never escapes, is +sufficient to weaken him mentally and physically, so that he becomes +unable to compete with the fresh virile life from the country hastening +on to London Town to destroy and be destroyed. + +Leaving out the disease germs that fill the air of the East End, consider +but the one item of smoke. Sir William Thiselton-Dyer, curator of Kew +Gardens, has been studying smoke deposits on vegetation, and, according +to his calculations, no less than six tons of solid matter, consisting of +soot and tarry hydrocarbons, are deposited every week on every quarter of +a square mile in and about London. This is equivalent to twenty-four +tons per week to the square mile, or 1248 tons per year to the square +mile. From the cornice below the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral was +recently taken a solid deposit of crystallised sulphate of lime. This +deposit had been formed by the action of the sulphuric acid in the +atmosphere upon the carbonate of lime in the stone. And this sulphuric +acid in the atmosphere is constantly being breathed by the London workmen +through all the days and nights of their lives. + +It is incontrovertible that the children grow up into rotten adults, +without virility or stamina, a weak-kneed, narrow-chested, listless +breed, that crumples up and goes down in the brute struggle for life with +the invading hordes from the country. The railway men, carriers, omnibus +drivers, corn and timber porters, and all those who require physical +stamina, are largely drawn from the country; while in the Metropolitan +Police there are, roughly, 12,000 country-born as against 3000 London- +born. + +So one is forced to conclude that the Abyss is literally a huge +man-killing machine, and when I pass along the little out-of-the-way +streets with the full-bellied artisans at the doors, I am aware of a +greater sorrow for them than for the 450,000 lost and hopeless wretches +dying at the bottom of the pit. They, at least, are dying, that is the +point; while these have yet to go through the slow and preliminary pangs +extending through two and even three generations. + +And yet the quality of the life is good. All human potentialities are in +it. Given proper conditions, it could live through the centuries, and +great men, heroes and masters, spring from it and make the world better +by having lived. + +I talked with a woman who was representative of that type which has been +jerked out of its little out-of-the-way streets and has started on the +fatal fall to the bottom. Her husband was a fitter and a member of the +Engineers' Union. That he was a poor engineer was evidenced by his +inability to get regular employment. He did not have the energy and +enterprise necessary to obtain or hold a steady position. + +The pair had two daughters, and the four of them lived in a couple of +holes, called "rooms" by courtesy, for which they paid seven shillings +per week. They possessed no stove, managing their cooking on a single +gas-ring in the fireplace. Not being persons of property, they were +unable to obtain an unlimited supply of gas; but a clever machine had +been installed for their benefit. By dropping a penny in the slot, the +gas was forthcoming, and when a penny's worth had forthcome the supply +was automatically shut off. "A penny gawn in no time," she explained, +"an' the cookin' not arf done!" + +Incipient starvation had been their portion for years. Month in and +month out, they had arisen from the table able and willing to eat more. +And when once on the downward slope, chronic innutrition is an important +factor in sapping vitality and hastening the descent. + +Yet this woman was a hard worker. From 4.30 in the morning till the last +light at night, she said, she had toiled at making cloth dress-skirts, +lined up and with two flounces, for seven shillings a dozen. Cloth dress- +skirts, mark you, lined up with two flounces, for seven shillings a +dozen! This is equal to $1.75 per dozen, or 14.75 cents per skirt. + +The husband, in order to obtain employment, had to belong to the union, +which collected one shilling and sixpence from him each week. Also, when +strikes were afoot and he chanced to be working, he had at times been +compelled to pay as high as seventeen shillings into the union's coffers +for the relief fund. + +One daughter, the elder, had worked as green hand for a dressmaker, for +one shilling and sixpence per week--37.5 cents per week, or a fraction +over 5 cents per day. However, when the slack season came she was +discharged, though she had been taken on at such low pay with the +understanding that she was to learn the trade and work up. After that +she had been employed in a bicycle store for three years, for which she +received five shillings per week, walking two miles to her work, and two +back, and being fined for tardiness. + +As far as the man and woman were concerned, the game was played. They +had lost handhold and foothold, and were falling into the pit. But what +of the daughters? Living like swine, enfeebled by chronic innutrition, +being sapped mentally, morally, and physically, what chance have they to +crawl up and out of the Abyss into which they were born falling? + +As I write this, and for an hour past, the air has been made hideous by a +free-for-all, rough-and-tumble fight going on in the yard that is back to +back with my yard. When the first sounds reached me I took it for the +barking and snarling of dogs, and some minutes were required to convince +me that human beings, and women at that, could produce such a fearful +clamour. + +Drunken women fighting! It is not nice to think of; it is far worse to +listen to. Something like this it runs-- + +Incoherent babble, shrieked at the top of the lungs of several women; a +lull, in which is heard a child crying and a young girl's voice pleading +tearfully; a woman's voice rises, harsh and grating, "You 'it me! Jest +you 'it me!" then, swat! challenge accepted and fight rages afresh. + +The back windows of the houses commanding the scene are lined with +enthusiastic spectators, and the sound of blows, and of oaths that make +one's blood run cold, are borne to my ears. Happily, I cannot see the +combatants. + +A lull; "You let that child alone!" child, evidently of few years, +screaming in downright terror. "Awright," repeated insistently and at +top pitch twenty times straight running; "you'll git this rock on the +'ead!" and then rock evidently on the head from the shriek that goes up. + +A lull; apparently one combatant temporarily disabled and being +resuscitated; child's voice audible again, but now sunk to a lower note +of terror and growing exhaustion. + +Voices begin to go up the scale, something like this:- + +"Yes?" + +"Yes!" + +"Yes?" + +"Yes!" + +"Yes?" + +"Yes!" + +"Yes?" + +"Yes!" + +Sufficient affirmation on both sides, conflict again precipitated. One +combatant gets overwhelming advantage, and follows it up from the way the +other combatant screams bloody murder. Bloody murder gurgles and dies +out, undoubtedly throttled by a strangle hold. + +Entrance of new voices; a flank attack; strangle hold suddenly broken +from the way bloody murder goes up half an octave higher than before; +general hullaballoo, everybody fighting. + +Lull; new voice, young girl's, "I'm goin' ter tyke my mother's part;" +dialogue, repeated about five times, "I'll do as I like, blankety, blank, +blank!" "I'd like ter see yer, blankety, blank, blank!" renewed +conflict, mothers, daughters, everybody, during which my landlady calls +her young daughter in from the back steps, while I wonder what will be +the effect of all that she has heard upon her moral fibre. + + + + +CHAPTER VI--FRYING-PAN ALLEY AND A GLIMPSE OF INFERNO + + +Three of us walked down Mile End Road, and one was a hero. He was a +slender lad of nineteen, so slight and frail, in fact, that, like Fra +Lippo Lippi, a puff of wind might double him up and turn him over. He +was a burning young socialist, in the first throes of enthusiasm and ripe +for martyrdom. As platform speaker or chairman he had taken an active +and dangerous part in the many indoor and outdoor pro-Boer meetings which +have vexed the serenity of Merry England these several years back. Little +items he had been imparting to me as he walked along; of being mobbed in +parks and on tram-cars; of climbing on the platform to lead the forlorn +hope, when brother speaker after brother speaker had been dragged down by +the angry crowd and cruelly beaten; of a siege in a church, where he and +three others had taken sanctuary, and where, amid flying missiles and the +crashing of stained glass, they had fought off the mob till rescued by +platoons of constables; of pitched and giddy battles on stairways, +galleries, and balconies; of smashed windows, collapsed stairways, +wrecked lecture halls, and broken heads and bones--and then, with a +regretful sigh, he looked at me and said: "How I envy you big, strong +men! I'm such a little mite I can't do much when it comes to fighting." + +And I, walking head and shoulders above my two companions, remembered my +own husky West, and the stalwart men it had been my custom, in turn, to +envy there. Also, as I looked at the mite of a youth with the heart of a +lion, I thought, this is the type that on occasion rears barricades and +shows the world that men have not forgotten how to die. + +But up spoke my other companion, a man of twenty-eight, who eked out a +precarious existence in a sweating den. + +"I'm a 'earty man, I am," he announced. "Not like the other chaps at my +shop, I ain't. They consider me a fine specimen of manhood. W'y, d' ye +know, I weigh ten stone!" + +I was ashamed to tell him that I weighed one hundred and seventy pounds, +or over twelve stone, so I contented myself with taking his measure. +Poor, misshapen little man! His skin an unhealthy colour, body gnarled +and twisted out of all decency, contracted chest, shoulders bent +prodigiously from long hours of toil, and head hanging heavily forward +and out of place! A "'earty man,' 'e was!" + +"How tall are you?" + +"Five foot two," he answered proudly; "an' the chaps at the shop . . . " + +"Let me see that shop," I said. + +The shop was idle just then, but I still desired to see it. Passing +Leman Street, we cut off to the left into Spitalfields, and dived into +Frying-pan Alley. A spawn of children cluttered the slimy pavement, for +all the world like tadpoles just turned frogs on the bottom of a dry +pond. In a narrow doorway, so narrow that perforce we stepped over her, +sat a woman with a young babe, nursing at breasts grossly naked and +libelling all the sacredness of motherhood. In the black and narrow hall +behind her we waded through a mess of young life, and essayed an even +narrower and fouler stairway. Up we went, three flights, each landing +two feet by three in area, and heaped with filth and refuse. + +There were seven rooms in this abomination called a house. In six of the +rooms, twenty-odd people, of both sexes and all ages, cooked, ate, slept, +and worked. In size the rooms averaged eight feet by eight, or possibly +nine. The seventh room we entered. It was the den in which five men +"sweated." It was seven feet wide by eight long, and the table at which +the work was performed took up the major portion of the space. On this +table were five lasts, and there was barely room for the men to stand to +their work, for the rest of the space was heaped with cardboard, leather, +bundles of shoe uppers, and a miscellaneous assortment of materials used +in attaching the uppers of shoes to their soles. + +In the adjoining room lived a woman and six children. In another vile +hole lived a widow, with an only son of sixteen who was dying of +consumption. The woman hawked sweetmeats on the street, I was told, and +more often failed than not to supply her son with the three quarts of +milk he daily required. Further, this son, weak and dying, did not taste +meat oftener than once a week; and the kind and quality of this meat +cannot possibly be imagined by people who have never watched human swine +eat. + +"The w'y 'e coughs is somethin' terrible," volunteered my sweated friend, +referring to the dying boy. "We 'ear 'im 'ere, w'ile we're workin', an' +it's terrible, I say, terrible!" + +And, what of the coughing and the sweetmeats, I found another menace +added to the hostile environment of the children of the slum. + +My sweated friend, when work was to be had, toiled with four other men in +his eight-by-seven room. In the winter a lamp burned nearly all the day +and added its fumes to the over-loaded air, which was breathed, and +breathed, and breathed again. + +In good times, when there was a rush of work, this man told me that he +could earn as high as "thirty bob a week."--Thirty shillings! Seven +dollars and a half! + +"But it's only the best of us can do it," he qualified. "An' then we +work twelve, thirteen, and fourteen hours a day, just as fast as we can. +An' you should see us sweat! Just running from us! If you could see us, +it'd dazzle your eyes--tacks flyin' out of mouth like from a machine. +Look at my mouth." + +I looked. The teeth were worn down by the constant friction of the +metallic brads, while they were coal-black and rotten. + +"I clean my teeth," he added, "else they'd be worse." + +After he had told me that the workers had to furnish their own tools, +brads, "grindery," cardboard, rent, light, and what not, it was plain +that his thirty bob was a diminishing quantity. + +"But how long does the rush season last, in which you receive this high +wage of thirty bob?" I asked. + +"Four months," was the answer; and for the rest of the year, he informed +me, they average from "half a quid" to a "quid" a week, which is +equivalent to from two dollars and a half to five dollars. The present +week was half gone, and he had earned four bob, or one dollar. And yet I +was given to understand that this was one of the better grades of +sweating. + +I looked out of the window, which should have commanded the back yards of +the neighbouring buildings. But there were no back yards, or, rather, +they were covered with one-storey hovels, cowsheds, in which people +lived. The roofs of these hovels were covered with deposits of filth, in +some places a couple of feet deep--the contributions from the back +windows of the second and third storeys. I could make out fish and meat +bones, garbage, pestilential rags, old boots, broken earthenware, and all +the general refuse of a human sty. + +"This is the last year of this trade; they're getting machines to do away +with us," said the sweated one mournfully, as we stepped over the woman +with the breasts grossly naked and waded anew through the cheap young +life. + +We next visited the municipal dwellings erected by the London County +Council on the site of the slums where lived Arthur Morrison's "Child of +the Jago." While the buildings housed more people than before, it was +much healthier. But the dwellings were inhabited by the better-class +workmen and artisans. The slum people had simply drifted on to crowd +other slums or to form new slums. + +"An' now," said the sweated one, the 'earty man who worked so fast as to +dazzle one's eyes, "I'll show you one of London's lungs. This is +Spitalfields Garden." And he mouthed the word "garden" with scorn. + +The shadow of Christ's Church falls across Spitalfields Garden, and in +the shadow of Christ's Church, at three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw a +sight I never wish to see again. There are no flowers in this garden, +which is smaller than my own rose garden at home. Grass only grows here, +and it is surrounded by a sharp-spiked iron fencing, as are all the parks +of London Town, so that homeless men and women may not come in at night +and sleep upon it. + +As we entered the garden, an old woman, between fifty and sixty, passed +us, striding with sturdy intention if somewhat rickety action, with two +bulky bundles, covered with sacking, slung fore and aft upon her. She +was a woman tramp, a houseless soul, too independent to drag her failing +carcass through the workhouse door. Like the snail, she carried her home +with her. In the two sacking-covered bundles were her household goods, +her wardrobe, linen, and dear feminine possessions. + +We went up the narrow gravelled walk. On the benches on either side +arrayed a mass of miserable and distorted humanity, the sight of which +would have impelled Dore to more diabolical flights of fancy than he ever +succeeded in achieving. It was a welter of rags and filth, of all manner +of loathsome skin diseases, open sores, bruises, grossness, indecency, +leering monstrosities, and bestial faces. A chill, raw wind was blowing, +and these creatures huddled there in their rags, sleeping for the most +part, or trying to sleep. Here were a dozen women, ranging in age from +twenty years to seventy. Next a babe, possibly of nine months, lying +asleep, flat on the hard bench, with neither pillow nor covering, nor +with any one looking after it. Next half-a-dozen men, sleeping bolt +upright or leaning against one another in their sleep. In one place a +family group, a child asleep in its sleeping mother's arms, and the +husband (or male mate) clumsily mending a dilapidated shoe. On another +bench a woman trimming the frayed strips of her rags with a knife, and +another woman, with thread and needle, sewing up rents. Adjoining, a man +holding a sleeping woman in his arms. Farther on, a man, his clothing +caked with gutter mud, asleep, with head in the lap of a woman, not more +than twenty-five years old, and also asleep. + +It was this sleeping that puzzled me. Why were nine out of ten of them +asleep or trying to sleep? But it was not till afterwards that I +learned. _It is a law of the powers that be that the homeless shall not +sleep by night_. On the pavement, by the portico of Christ's Church, +where the stone pillars rise toward the sky in a stately row, were whole +rows of men lying asleep or drowsing, and all too deep sunk in torpor to +rouse or be made curious by our intrusion. + +"A lung of London," I said; "nay, an abscess, a great putrescent sore." + +"Oh, why did you bring me here?" demanded the burning young socialist, +his delicate face white with sickness of soul and stomach sickness. + +"Those women there," said our guide, "will sell themselves for +thru'pence, or tu'pence, or a loaf of stale bread." + +He said it with a cheerful sneer. + +But what more he might have said I do not know, for the sick man cried, +"For heaven's sake let us get out of this." + + + + +CHAPTER VII--A WINNER OF THE VICTORIA CROSS + + +I have found that it is not easy to get into the casual ward of the +workhouse. I have made two attempts now, and I shall shortly make a +third. The first time I started out at seven o'clock in the evening with +four shillings in my pocket. Herein I committed two errors. In the +first place, the applicant for admission to the casual ward must be +destitute, and as he is subjected to a rigorous search, he must really be +destitute; and fourpence, much less four shillings, is sufficient +affluence to disqualify him. In the second place, I made the mistake of +tardiness. Seven o'clock in the evening is too late in the day for a +pauper to get a pauper's bed. + +For the benefit of gently nurtured and innocent folk, let me explain what +a ward is. It is a building where the homeless, bedless, penniless man, +if he be lucky, may _casually_ rest his weary bones, and then work like a +navvy next day to pay for it. + +My second attempt to break into the casual ward began more auspiciously. +I started in the middle of the afternoon, accompanied by the burning +young socialist and another friend, and all I had in my pocket was +thru'pence. They piloted me to the Whitechapel Workhouse, at which I +peered from around a friendly corner. It was a few minutes past five in +the afternoon but already a long and melancholy line was formed, which +strung out around the corner of the building and out of sight. + +It was a most woeful picture, men and women waiting in the cold grey end +of the day for a pauper's shelter from the night, and I confess it almost +unnerved me. Like the boy before the dentist's door, I suddenly +discovered a multitude of reasons for being elsewhere. Some hints of the +struggle going on within must have shown in my face, for one of my +companions said, "Don't funk; you can do it." + +Of course I could do it, but I became aware that even thru'pence in my +pocket was too lordly a treasure for such a throng; and, in order that +all invidious distinctions might be removed, I emptied out the coppers. +Then I bade good-bye to my friends, and with my heart going pit-a-pat, +slouched down the street and took my place at the end of the line. Woeful +it looked, this line of poor folk tottering on the steep pitch to death; +how woeful it was I did not dream. + +Next to me stood a short, stout man. Hale and hearty, though aged, +strong-featured, with the tough and leathery skin produced by long years +of sunbeat and weatherbeat, his was the unmistakable sea face and eyes; +and at once there came to me a bit of Kipling's "Galley Slave":- + + "By the brand upon my shoulder, by the gall of clinging steel; + By the welt the whips have left me, by the scars that never heal; + By eyes grown old with staring through the sun-wash on the brine, + I am paid in full for service . . . " + +How correct I was in my surmise, and how peculiarly appropriate the verse +was, you shall learn. + +"I won't stand it much longer, I won't," he was complaining to the man on +the other side of him. "I'll smash a windy, a big 'un, an' get run in +for fourteen days. Then I'll have a good place to sleep, never fear, an' +better grub than you get here. Though I'd miss my bit of bacey"--this as +an after-thought, and said regretfully and resignedly. + +"I've been out two nights now," he went on; "wet to the skin night before +last, an' I can't stand it much longer. I'm gettin' old, an' some +mornin' they'll pick me up dead." + +He whirled with fierce passion on me: "Don't you ever let yourself grow +old, lad. Die when you're young, or you'll come to this. I'm tellin' +you sure. Seven an' eighty years am I, an' served my country like a man. +Three good-conduct stripes and the Victoria Cross, an' this is what I get +for it. I wish I was dead, I wish I was dead. Can't come any too quick +for me, I tell you." + +The moisture rushed into his eyes, but, before the other man could +comfort him, he began to hum a lilting sea song as though there was no +such thing as heartbreak in the world. + +Given encouragement, this is the story he told while waiting in line at +the workhouse after two nights of exposure in the streets. + +As a boy he had enlisted in the British navy, and for two score years and +more served faithfully and well. Names, dates, commanders, ports, ships, +engagements, and battles, rolled from his lips in a steady stream, but it +is beyond me to remember them all, for it is not quite in keeping to take +notes at the poorhouse door. He had been through the "First War in +China," as he termed it; had enlisted with the East India Company and +served ten years in India; was back in India again, in the English navy, +at the time of the Mutiny; had served in the Burmese War and in the +Crimea; and all this in addition to having fought and toiled for the +English flag pretty well over the rest of the globe. + +Then the thing happened. A little thing, it could only be traced back to +first causes: perhaps the lieutenant's breakfast had not agreed with him; +or he had been up late the night before; or his debts were pressing; or +the commander had spoken brusquely to him. The point is, that on this +particular day the lieutenant was irritable. The sailor, with others, +was "setting up" the fore rigging. + +Now, mark you, the sailor had been over forty years in the navy, had +three good-conduct stripes, and possessed the Victoria Cross for +distinguished service in battle; so he could not have been such an +altogether bad sort of a sailorman. The lieutenant was irritable; the +lieutenant called him a name--well, not a nice sort of name. It referred +to his mother. When I was a boy it was our boys' code to fight like +little demons should such an insult be given our mothers; and many men +have died in my part of the world for calling other men this name. + +However, the lieutenant called the sailor this name. At that moment it +chanced the sailor had an iron lever or bar in his hands. He promptly +struck the lieutenant over the head with it, knocking him out of the +rigging and overboard. + +And then, in the man's own words: "I saw what I had done. I knew the +Regulations, and I said to myself, 'It's all up with you, Jack, my boy; +so here goes.' An' I jumped over after him, my mind made up to drown us +both. An' I'd ha' done it, too, only the pinnace from the flagship was +just comin' alongside. Up we came to the top, me a hold of him an' +punchin' him. This was what settled for me. If I hadn't ben strikin' +him, I could have claimed that, seein' what I had done, I jumped over to +save him." + +Then came the court-martial, or whatever name a sea trial goes by. He +recited his sentence, word for word, as though memorised and gone over in +bitterness many times. And here it is, for the sake of discipline and +respect to officers not always gentlemen, the punishment of a man who was +guilty of manhood. To be reduced to the rank of ordinary seaman; to be +debarred all prize-money due him; to forfeit all rights to pension; to +resign the Victoria Cross; to be discharged from the navy with a good +character (this being his first offence); to receive fifty lashes; and to +serve two years in prison. + +"I wish I had drowned that day, I wish to God I had," he concluded, as +the line moved up and we passed around the corner. + +At last the door came in sight, through which the paupers were being +admitted in bunches. And here I learned a surprising thing: _this being +Wednesday, none of us would be released till Friday morning_. +Furthermore, and oh, you tobacco users, take heed: _we would not be +permitted to take in any tobacco_. This we would have to surrender as we +entered. Sometimes, I was told, it was returned on leaving and sometimes +it was destroyed. + +The old man-of-war's man gave me a lesson. Opening his pouch, he emptied +the tobacco (a pitiful quantity) into a piece of paper. This, snugly and +flatly wrapped, went down his sock inside his shoe. Down went my piece +of tobacco inside my sock, for forty hours without tobacco is a hardship +all tobacco users will understand. + +Again and again the line moved up, and we were slowly but surely +approaching the wicket. At the moment we happened to be standing on an +iron grating, and a man appearing underneath, the old sailor called down +to him,-- + +"How many more do they want?" + +"Twenty-four," came the answer. + +We looked ahead anxiously and counted. Thirty-four were ahead of us. +Disappointment and consternation dawned upon the faces about me. It is +not a nice thing, hungry and penniless, to face a sleepless night in the +streets. But we hoped against hope, till, when ten stood outside the +wicket, the porter turned us away. + +"Full up," was what he said, as he banged the door. + +Like a flash, for all his eighty-seven years, the old sailor was speeding +away on the desperate chance of finding shelter elsewhere. I stood and +debated with two other men, wise in the knowledge of casual wards, as to +where we should go. They decided on the Poplar Workhouse, three miles +away, and we started off. + +As we rounded the corner, one of them said, "I could a' got in 'ere to- +day. I come by at one o'clock, an' the line was beginnin' to form +then--pets, that's what they are. They let 'm in, the same ones, night +upon night." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII--THE CARTER AND THE CARPENTER + + +The Carter, with his clean-cut face, chin beard, and shaved upper lip, I +should have taken in the United States for anything from a master workman +to a well-to-do farmer. The Carpenter--well, I should have taken him for +a carpenter. He looked it, lean and wiry, with shrewd, observant eyes, +and hands that had grown twisted to the handles of tools through forty- +seven years' work at the trade. The chief difficulty with these men was +that they were old, and that their children, instead of growing up to +take care of them, had died. Their years had told on them, and they had +been forced out of the whirl of industry by the younger and stronger +competitors who had taken their places. + +These two men, turned away from the casual ward of Whitechapel Workhouse, +were bound with me for Poplar Workhouse. Not much of a show, they +thought, but to chance it was all that remained to us. It was Poplar, or +the streets and night. Both men were anxious for a bed, for they were +"about gone," as they phrased it. The Carter, fifty-eight years of age, +had spent the last three nights without shelter or sleep, while the +Carpenter, sixty-five years of age, had been out five nights. + +But, O dear, soft people, full of meat and blood, with white beds and +airy rooms waiting you each night, how can I make you know what it is to +suffer as you would suffer if you spent a weary night on London's +streets! Believe me, you would think a thousand centuries had come and +gone before the east paled into dawn; you would shiver till you were +ready to cry aloud with the pain of each aching muscle; and you would +marvel that you could endure so much and live. Should you rest upon a +bench, and your tired eyes close, depend upon it the policeman would +rouse you and gruffly order you to "move on." You may rest upon the +bench, and benches are few and far between; but if rest means sleep, on +you must go, dragging your tired body through the endless streets. Should +you, in desperate slyness, seek some forlorn alley or dark passageway and +lie down, the omnipresent policeman will rout you out just the same. It +is his business to rout you out. It is a law of the powers that be that +you shall be routed out. + +But when the dawn came, the nightmare over, you would hale you home to +refresh yourself, and until you died you would tell the story of your +adventure to groups of admiring friends. It would grow into a mighty +story. Your little eight-hour night would become an Odyssey and you a +Homer. + +Not so with these homeless ones who walked to Poplar Workhouse with me. +And there are thirty-five thousand of them, men and women, in London Town +this night. Please don't remember it as you go to bed; if you are as +soft as you ought to be you may not rest so well as usual. But for old +men of sixty, seventy, and eighty, ill-fed, with neither meat nor blood, +to greet the dawn unrefreshed, and to stagger through the day in mad +search for crusts, with relentless night rushing down upon them again, +and to do this five nights and days--O dear, soft people, full of meat +and blood, how can you ever understand? + +I walked up Mile End Road between the Carter and the Carpenter. Mile End +Road is a wide thoroughfare, cutting the heart of East London, and there +were tens of thousands of people abroad on it. I tell you this so that +you may fully appreciate what I shall describe in the next paragraph. As +I say, we walked along, and when they grew bitter and cursed the land, I +cursed with them, cursed as an American waif would curse, stranded in a +strange and terrible land. And, as I tried to lead them to believe, and +succeeded in making them believe, they took me for a "seafaring man," who +had spent his money in riotous living, lost his clothes (no unusual +occurrence with seafaring men ashore), and was temporarily broke while +looking for a ship. This accounted for my ignorance of English ways in +general and casual wards in particular, and my curiosity concerning the +same. + +The Carter was hard put to keep the pace at which we walked (he told me +that he had eaten nothing that day), but the Carpenter, lean and hungry, +his grey and ragged overcoat flapping mournfully in the breeze, swung on +in a long and tireless stride which reminded me strongly of the plains +wolf or coyote. Both kept their eyes upon the pavement as they walked +and talked, and every now and then one or the other would stoop and pick +something up, never missing the stride the while. I thought it was cigar +and cigarette stumps they were collecting, and for some time took no +notice. Then I did notice. + +_From the slimy, spittle-drenched, sidewalk, they were picking up bits of +orange peel, apple skin, and grape stems, and, they were eating them. The +pits of greengage plums they cracked between their teeth for the kernels +inside. They picked up stray bits of bread the size of peas, apple cores +so black and dirty one would not take them to be apple cores, and these +things these two men took into their mouths, and chewed them, and +swallowed them; and this, between six and seven o'clock in the evening of +August 20, year of our Lord 1902, in the heart of the greatest, +wealthiest, and most powerful empire the world has ever seen_. + +These two men talked. They were not fools, they were merely old. And, +naturally, their guts a-reek with pavement offal, they talked of bloody +revolution. They talked as anarchists, fanatics, and madmen would talk. +And who shall blame them? In spite of my three good meals that day, and +the snug bed I could occupy if I wished, and my social philosophy, and my +evolutionary belief in the slow development and metamorphosis of +things--in spite of all this, I say, I felt impelled to talk rot with +them or hold my tongue. Poor fools! Not of their sort are revolutions +bred. And when they are dead and dust, which will be shortly, other +fools will talk bloody revolution as they gather offal from the spittle- +drenched sidewalk along Mile End Road to Poplar Workhouse. + +Being a foreigner, and a young man, the Carter and the Carpenter +explained things to me and advised me. Their advice, by the way, was +brief, and to the point; it was to get out of the country. "As fast as +God'll let me," I assured them; "I'll hit only the high places, till you +won't be able to see my trail for smoke." They felt the force of my +figures, rather than understood them, and they nodded their heads +approvingly. + +"Actually make a man a criminal against 'is will," said the Carpenter. +"'Ere I am, old, younger men takin' my place, my clothes gettin' shabbier +an' shabbier, an' makin' it 'arder every day to get a job. I go to the +casual ward for a bed. Must be there by two or three in the afternoon or +I won't get in. You saw what happened to-day. What chance does that +give me to look for work? S'pose I do get into the casual ward? Keep me +in all day to-morrow, let me out mornin' o' next day. What then? The +law sez I can't get in another casual ward that night less'n ten miles +distant. Have to hurry an' walk to be there in time that day. What +chance does that give me to look for a job? S'pose I don't walk. S'pose +I look for a job? In no time there's night come, an' no bed. No sleep +all night, nothin' to eat, what shape am I in the mornin' to look for +work? Got to make up my sleep in the park somehow" (the vision of +Christ's Church, Spitalfield, was strong on me) "an' get something to +eat. An' there I am! Old, down, an' no chance to get up." + +"Used to be a toll-gate 'ere," said the Carter. "Many's the time I've +paid my toll 'ere in my cartin' days." + +"I've 'ad three 'a'penny rolls in two days," the Carpenter announced, +after a long pause in the conversation. "Two of them I ate yesterday, +an' the third to-day," he concluded, after another long pause. + +"I ain't 'ad anything to-day," said the Carter. "An' I'm fagged out. My +legs is hurtin' me something fearful." + +"The roll you get in the 'spike' is that 'ard you can't eat it nicely +with less'n a pint of water," said the Carpenter, for my benefit. And, +on asking him what the "spike" was, he answered, "The casual ward. It's +a cant word, you know." + +But what surprised me was that he should have the word "cant" in his +vocabulary, a vocabulary that I found was no mean one before we parted. + +I asked them what I might expect in the way of treatment, if we succeeded +in getting into the Poplar Workhouse, and between them I was supplied +with much information. Having taken a cold bath on entering, I would be +given for supper six ounces of bread and "three parts of skilly." "Three +parts" means three-quarters of a pint, and "skilly" is a fluid concoction +of three quarts of oatmeal stirred into three buckets and a half of hot +water. + +"Milk and sugar, I suppose, and a silver spoon?" I queried. + +"No fear. Salt's what you'll get, an' I've seen some places where you'd +not get any spoon. 'Old 'er up an' let 'er run down, that's 'ow they do +it." + +"You do get good skilly at 'Ackney," said the Carter. + +"Oh, wonderful skilly, that," praised the Carpenter, and each looked +eloquently at the other. + +"Flour an' water at St. George's in the East," said the Carter. + +The Carpenter nodded. He had tried them all. + +"Then what?" I demanded + +And I was informed that I was sent directly to bed. "Call you at half +after five in the mornin', an' you get up an' take a 'sluice'--if there's +any soap. Then breakfast, same as supper, three parts o' skilly an' a +six-ounce loaf." + +"'Tisn't always six ounces," corrected the Carter. + +"'Tisn't, no; an' often that sour you can 'ardly eat it. When first I +started I couldn't eat the skilly nor the bread, but now I can eat my own +an' another man's portion." + +"I could eat three other men's portions," said the Carter. "I 'aven't +'ad a bit this blessed day." + +"Then what?" + +"Then you've got to do your task, pick four pounds of oakum, or clean an' +scrub, or break ten to eleven hundredweight o' stones. I don't 'ave to +break stones; I'm past sixty, you see. They'll make you do it, though. +You're young an' strong." + +"What I don't like," grumbled the Carter, "is to be locked up in a cell +to pick oakum. It's too much like prison." + +"But suppose, after you've had your night's sleep, you refuse to pick +oakum, or break stones, or do any work at all?" I asked. + +"No fear you'll refuse the second time; they'll run you in," answered the +Carpenter. "Wouldn't advise you to try it on, my lad." + +"Then comes dinner," he went on. "Eight ounces of bread, one and a arf +ounces of cheese, an' cold water. Then you finish your task an' 'ave +supper, same as before, three parts o' skilly any six ounces o' bread. +Then to bed, six o'clock, an' next mornin' you're turned loose, provided +you've finished your task." + +We had long since left Mile End Road, and after traversing a gloomy maze +of narrow, winding streets, we came to Poplar Workhouse. On a low stone +wall we spread our handkerchiefs, and each in his handkerchief put all +his worldly possessions, with the exception of the "bit o' baccy" down +his sock. And then, as the last light was fading from the drab-coloured +sky, the wind blowing cheerless and cold, we stood, with our pitiful +little bundles in our hands, a forlorn group at the workhouse door. + +Three working girls came along, and one looked pityingly at me; as she +passed I followed her with my eyes, and she still looked pityingly back +at me. The old men she did not notice. Dear Christ, she pitied me, +young and vigorous and strong, but she had no pity for the two old men +who stood by my side! She was a young woman, and I was a young man, and +what vague sex promptings impelled her to pity me put her sentiment on +the lowest plane. Pity for old men is an altruistic feeling, and +besides, the workhouse door is the accustomed place for old men. So she +showed no pity for them, only for me, who deserved it least or not at +all. Not in honour do grey hairs go down to the grave in London Town. + +On one side the door was a bell handle, on the other side a press button. + +"Ring the bell," said the Carter to me. + +And just as I ordinarily would at anybody's door, I pulled out the handle +and rang a peal. + +"Oh! Oh!" they cried in one terrified voice. "Not so 'ard!" + +I let go, and they looked reproachfully at me, as though I had imperilled +their chance for a bed and three parts of skilly. Nobody came. Luckily +it was the wrong bell, and I felt better. + +"Press the button," I said to the Carpenter. + +"No, no, wait a bit," the Carter hurriedly interposed. + +From all of which I drew the conclusion that a poorhouse porter, who +commonly draws a yearly salary of from seven to nine pounds, is a very +finicky and important personage, and cannot be treated too fastidiously +by--paupers. + +So we waited, ten times a decent interval, when the Carter stealthily +advanced a timid forefinger to the button, and gave it the faintest, +shortest possible push. I have looked at waiting men where life or death +was in the issue; but anxious suspense showed less plainly on their faces +than it showed on the faces of these two men as they waited on the coming +of the porter. + +He came. He barely looked at us. "Full up," he said and shut the door. + +"Another night of it," groaned the Carpenter. In the dim light the +Carter looked wan and grey. + +Indiscriminate charity is vicious, say the professional philanthropists. +Well, I resolved to be vicious. + +"Come on; get your knife out and come here," I said to the Carter, +drawing him into a dark alley. + +He glared at me in a frightened manner, and tried to draw back. Possibly +he took me for a latter-day Jack-the-Ripper, with a penchant for elderly +male paupers. Or he may have thought I was inveigling him into the +commission of some desperate crime. Anyway, he was frightened. + +It will be remembered, at the outset, that I sewed a pound inside my +stoker's singlet under the armpit. This was my emergency fund, and I was +now called upon to use it for the first time. + +Not until I had gone through the acts of a contortionist, and shown the +round coin sewed in, did I succeed in getting the Carter's help. Even +then his hand was trembling so that I was afraid he would cut me instead +of the stitches, and I was forced to take the knife away and do it +myself. Out rolled the gold piece, a fortune in their hungry eyes; and +away we stampeded for the nearest coffee-house. + +Of course I had to explain to them that I was merely an investigator, a +social student, seeking to find out how the other half lived. And at +once they shut up like clams. I was not of their kind; my speech had +changed, the tones of my voice were different, in short, I was a +superior, and they were superbly class conscious. + +"What will you have?" I asked, as the waiter came for the order. + +"Two slices an' a cup of tea," meekly said the Carter. + +"Two slices an' a cup of tea," meekly said the Carpenter. + +Stop a moment, and consider the situation. Here were two men, invited by +me into the coffee-house. They had seen my gold piece, and they could +understand that I was no pauper. One had eaten a ha'penny roll that day, +the other had eaten nothing. And they called for "two slices an' a cup +of tea!" Each man had given a tu'penny order. "Two slices," by the way, +means two slices of bread and butter. + +This was the same degraded humility that had characterised their attitude +toward the poorhouse porter. But I wouldn't have it. Step by step I +increased their order--eggs, rashers of bacon, more eggs, more bacon, +more tea, more slices and so forth--they denying wistfully all the while +that they cared for anything more, and devouring it ravenously as fast as +it arrived. + +"First cup o' tea I've 'ad in a fortnight," said the Carter. + +"Wonderful tea, that," said the Carpenter. + +They each drank two pints of it, and I assure you that it was slops. It +resembled tea less than lager beer resembles champagne. Nay, it was +"water-bewitched," and did not resemble tea at all. + +It was curious, after the first shock, to notice the effect the food had +on them. At first they were melancholy, and talked of the divers times +they had contemplated suicide. The Carter, not a week before, had stood +on the bridge and looked at the water, and pondered the question. Water, +the Carpenter insisted with heat, was a bad route. He, for one, he knew, +would struggle. A bullet was "'andier," but how under the sun was he to +get hold of a revolver? That was the rub. + +They grew more cheerful as the hot "tea" soaked in, and talked more about +themselves. The Carter had buried his wife and children, with the +exception of one son, who grew to manhood and helped him in his little +business. Then the thing happened. The son, a man of thirty-one, died +of the smallpox. No sooner was this over than the father came down with +fever and went to the hospital for three months. Then he was done for. +He came out weak, debilitated, no strong young son to stand by him, his +little business gone glimmering, and not a farthing. The thing had +happened, and the game was up. No chance for an old man to start again. +Friends all poor and unable to help. He had tried for work when they +were putting up the stands for the first Coronation parade. "An' I got +fair sick of the answer: 'No! no! no!' It rang in my ears at night when +I tried to sleep, always the same, 'No! no! no!'" Only the past week he +had answered an advertisement in Hackney, and on giving his age was told, +"Oh, too old, too old by far." + +The Carpenter had been born in the army, where his father had served +twenty-two years. Likewise, his two brothers had gone into the army; +one, troop sergeant-major of the Seventh Hussars, dying in India after +the Mutiny; the other, after nine years under Roberts in the East, had +been lost in Egypt. The Carpenter had not gone into the army, so here he +was, still on the planet. + +"But 'ere, give me your 'and," he said, ripping open his ragged shirt. +"I'm fit for the anatomist, that's all. I'm wastin' away, sir, actually +wastin' away for want of food. Feel my ribs an' you'll see." + +I put my hand under his shirt and felt. The skin was stretched like +parchment over the bones, and the sensation produced was for all the +world like running one's hand over a washboard. + +"Seven years o' bliss I 'ad," he said. "A good missus and three bonnie +lassies. But they all died. Scarlet fever took the girls inside a +fortnight." + +"After this, sir," said the Carter, indicating the spread, and desiring +to turn the conversation into more cheerful channels; "after this, I +wouldn't be able to eat a workhouse breakfast in the morning." + +"Nor I," agreed the Carpenter, and they fell to discussing belly delights +and the fine dishes their respective wives had cooked in the old days. + +"I've gone three days and never broke my fast," said the Carter. + +"And I, five," his companion added, turning gloomy with the memory of it. +"Five days once, with nothing on my stomach but a bit of orange peel, an' +outraged nature wouldn't stand it, sir, an' I near died. Sometimes, +walkin' the streets at night, I've ben that desperate I've made up my +mind to win the horse or lose the saddle. You know what I mean, sir--to +commit some big robbery. But when mornin' come, there was I, too weak +from 'unger an' cold to 'arm a mouse." + +As their poor vitals warmed to the food, they began to expand and wax +boastful, and to talk politics. I can only say that they talked politics +as well as the average middle-class man, and a great deal better than +some of the middle-class men I have heard. What surprised me was the +hold they had on the world, its geography and peoples, and on recent and +contemporaneous history. As I say, they were not fools, these two men. +They were merely old, and their children had undutifully failed to grow +up and give them a place by the fire. + +One last incident, as I bade them good-bye on the corner, happy with a +couple of shillings in their pockets and the certain prospect of a bed +for the night. Lighting a cigarette, I was about to throw away the +burning match when the Carter reached for it. I proffered him the box, +but he said, "Never mind, won't waste it, sir." And while he lighted the +cigarette I had given him, the Carpenter hurried with the filling of his +pipe in order to have a go at the same match. + +"It's wrong to waste," said he. + +"Yes," I said, but I was thinking of the wash-board ribs over which I had +run my hand. + + + + +CHAPTER IX--THE SPIKE + + +First of all, I must beg forgiveness of my body for the vileness through +which I have dragged it, and forgiveness of my stomach for the vileness +which I have thrust into it. I have been to the spike, and slept in the +spike, and eaten in the spike; also, I have run away from the spike. + +After my two unsuccessful attempts to penetrate the Whitechapel casual +ward, I started early, and joined the desolate line before three o'clock +in the afternoon. They did not "let in" till six, but at that early hour +I was number twenty, while the news had gone forth that only twenty-two +were to be admitted. By four o'clock there were thirty-four in line, the +last ten hanging on in the slender hope of getting in by some kind of a +miracle. Many more came, looked at the line, and went away, wise to the +bitter fact that the spike would be "full up." + +Conversation was slack at first, standing there, till the man on one side +of me and the man on the other side of me discovered that they had been +in the smallpox hospital at the same time, though a full house of sixteen +hundred patients had prevented their becoming acquainted. But they made +up for it, discussing and comparing the more loathsome features of their +disease in the most cold-blooded, matter-of-fact way. I learned that the +average mortality was one in six, that one of them had been in three +months and the other three months and a half, and that they had been +"rotten wi' it." Whereat my flesh began to creep and crawl, and I asked +them how long they had been out. One had been out two weeks, and the +other three weeks. Their faces were badly pitted (though each assured +the other that this was not so), and further, they showed me in their +hands and under the nails the smallpox "seeds" still working out. Nay, +one of them worked a seed out for my edification, and pop it went, right +out of his flesh into the air. I tried to shrink up smaller inside my +clothes, and I registered a fervent though silent hope that it had not +popped on me. + +In both instances, I found that the smallpox was the cause of their being +"on the doss," which means on the tramp. Both had been working when +smitten by the disease, and both had emerged from the hospital "broke," +with the gloomy task before them of hunting for work. So far, they had +not found any, and they had come to the spike for a "rest up" after three +days and nights on the street. + +It seems that not only the man who becomes old is punished for his +involuntary misfortune, but likewise the man who is struck by disease or +accident. Later on, I talked with another man--"Ginger" we called +him--who stood at the head of the line--a sure indication that he had +been waiting since one o'clock. A year before, one day, while in the +employ of a fish dealer, he was carrying a heavy box of fish which was +too much for him. Result: "something broke," and there was the box on +the ground, and he on the ground beside it. + +At the first hospital, whither he was immediately carried, they said it +was a rupture, reduced the swelling, gave him some vaseline to rub on it, +kept him four hours, and told him to get along. But he was not on the +streets more than two or three hours when he was down on his back again. +This time he went to another hospital and was patched up. But the point +is, the employer did nothing, positively nothing, for the man injured in +his employment, and even refused him "a light job now and again," when he +came out. As far as Ginger is concerned, he is a broken man. His only +chance to earn a living was by heavy work. He is now incapable of +performing heavy work, and from now until he dies, the spike, the peg, +and the streets are all he can look forward to in the way of food and +shelter. The thing happened--that is all. He put his back under too +great a load of fish, and his chance for happiness in life was crossed +off the books. + +Several men in the line had been to the United States, and they were +wishing that they had remained there, and were cursing themselves for +their folly in ever having left. England had become a prison to them, a +prison from which there was no hope of escape. It was impossible for +them to get away. They could neither scrape together the passage money, +nor get a chance to work their passage. The country was too overrun by +poor devils on that "lay." + +I was on the seafaring-man-who-had-lost-his-clothes-and-money tack, and +they all condoled with me and gave me much sound advice. To sum it up, +the advice was something like this: To keep out of all places like the +spike. There was nothing good in it for me. To head for the coast and +bend every effort to get away on a ship. To go to work, if possible, and +scrape together a pound or so, with which I might bribe some steward or +underling to give me chance to work my passage. They envied me my youth +and strength, which would sooner or later get me out of the country. +These they no longer possessed. Age and English hardship had broken +them, and for them the game was played and up. + +There was one, however, who was still young, and who, I am sure, will in +the end make it out. He had gone to the United States as a young fellow, +and in fourteen years' residence the longest period he had been out of +work was twelve hours. He had saved his money, grown too prosperous, and +returned to the mother-country. Now he was standing in line at the +spike. + +For the past two years, he told me, he had been working as a cook. His +hours had been from 7 a.m. to 10.30 p.m., and on Saturday to 12.30 +p.m.--ninety-five hours per week, for which he had received twenty +shillings, or five dollars. + +"But the work and the long hours was killing me," he said, "and I had to +chuck the job. I had a little money saved, but I spent it living and +looking for another place." + +This was his first night in the spike, and he had come in only to get +rested. As soon as he emerged, he intended to start for Bristol, a one- +hundred-and-ten-mile walk, where he thought he would eventually get a +ship for the States. + +But the men in the line were not all of this calibre. Some were poor, +wretched beasts, inarticulate and callous, but for all of that, in many +ways very human. I remember a carter, evidently returning home after the +day's work, stopping his cart before us so that his young hopeful, who +had run to meet him, could climb in. But the cart was big, the young +hopeful little, and he failed in his several attempts to swarm up. +Whereupon one of the most degraded-looking men stepped out of the line +and hoisted him in. Now the virtue and the joy of this act lies in that +it was service of love, not hire. The carter was poor, and the man knew +it; and the man was standing in the spike line, and the carter knew it; +and the man had done the little act, and the carter had thanked him, even +as you and I would have done and thanked. + +Another beautiful touch was that displayed by the "Hopper" and his "ole +woman." He had been in line about half-an-hour when the "ole woman" (his +mate) came up to him. She was fairly clad, for her class, with a weather- +worn bonnet on her grey head and a sacking-covered bundle in her arms. As +she talked to him, he reached forward, caught the one stray wisp of the +white hair that was flying wild, deftly twirled it between his fingers, +and tucked it back properly behind her ear. From all of which one may +conclude many things. He certainly liked her well enough to wish her to +be neat and tidy. He was proud of her, standing there in the spike line, +and it was his desire that she should look well in the eyes of the other +unfortunates who stood in the spike line. But last and best, and +underlying all these motives, it was a sturdy affection he bore her; for +man is not prone to bother his head over neatness and tidiness in a woman +for whom he does not care, nor is he likely to be proud of such a woman. + +And I found myself questioning why this man and his mate, hard workers I +knew from their talk, should have to seek a pauper lodging. He had +pride, pride in his old woman and pride in himself. When I asked him +what he thought I, a greenhorn, might expect to earn at "hopping," he +sized me up, and said that it all depended. Plenty of people were too +slow to pick hops and made a failure of it. A man, to succeed, must use +his head and be quick with his fingers, must be exceeding quick with his +fingers. Now he and his old woman could do very well at it, working the +one bin between them and not going to sleep over it; but then, they had +been at it for years. + +"I 'ad a mate as went down last year," spoke up a man. "It was 'is fust +time, but 'e come back wi' two poun' ten in 'is pockit, an' 'e was only +gone a month." + +"There you are," said the Hopper, a wealth of admiration in his voice. +"'E was quick. 'E was jest nat'rally born to it, 'e was." + +Two pound ten--twelve dollars and a half--for a month's work when one is +"jest nat'rally born to it!" And in addition, sleeping out without +blankets and living the Lord knows how. There are moments when I am +thankful that I was not "jest nat'rally born" a genius for anything, not +even hop-picking, + +In the matter of getting an outfit for "the hops," the Hopper gave me +some sterling advice, to which same give heed, you soft and tender +people, in case you should ever be stranded in London Town. + +"If you ain't got tins an' cookin' things, all as you can get'll be bread +and cheese. No bloomin' good that! You must 'ave 'ot tea, an' +wegetables, an' a bit o' meat, now an' again, if you're goin' to do work +as is work. Cawn't do it on cold wittles. Tell you wot you do, lad. Run +around in the mornin' an' look in the dust pans. You'll find plenty o' +tins to cook in. Fine tins, wonderful good some o' them. Me an' the ole +woman got ours that way." (He pointed at the bundle she held, while she +nodded proudly, beaming on me with good-nature and consciousness of +success and prosperity.) "This overcoat is as good as a blanket," he +went on, advancing the skirt of it that I might feel its thickness. "An' +'oo knows, I may find a blanket before long." + +Again the old woman nodded and beamed, this time with the dead certainty +that he _would_ find a blanket before long. + +"I call it a 'oliday, 'oppin'," he concluded rapturously. "A tidy way o' +gettin' two or three pounds together an' fixin' up for winter. The only +thing I don't like"--and here was the rift within the lute--"is paddin' +the 'oof down there." + +It was plain the years were telling on this energetic pair, and while +they enjoyed the quick work with the fingers, "paddin' the 'oof," which +is walking, was beginning to bear heavily upon them. And I looked at +their grey hairs, and ahead into the future ten years, and wondered how +it would be with them. + +I noticed another man and his old woman join the line, both of them past +fifty. The woman, because she was a woman, was admitted into the spike; +but he was too late, and, separated from his mate, was turned away to +tramp the streets all night. + +The street on which we stood, from wall to wall, was barely twenty feet +wide. The sidewalks were three feet wide. It was a residence street. At +least workmen and their families existed in some sort of fashion in the +houses across from us. And each day and every day, from one in the +afternoon till six, our ragged spike line is the principal feature of the +view commanded by their front doors and windows. One workman sat in his +door directly opposite us, taking his rest and a breath of air after the +toil of the day. His wife came to chat with him. The doorway was too +small for two, so she stood up. Their babes sprawled before them. And +here was the spike line, less than a score of feet away--neither privacy +for the workman, nor privacy for the pauper. About our feet played the +children of the neighbourhood. To them our presence was nothing unusual. +We were not an intrusion. We were as natural and ordinary as the brick +walls and stone curbs of their environment. They had been born to the +sight of the spike line, and all their brief days they had seen it. + +At six o'clock the line moved up, and we were admitted in groups of +three. Name, age, occupation, place of birth, condition of destitution, +and the previous night's "doss," were taken with lightning-like rapidity +by the superintendent; and as I turned I was startled by a man's +thrusting into my hand something that felt like a brick, and shouting +into my ear, "any knives, matches, or tobacco?" "No, sir," I lied, as +lied every man who entered. As I passed downstairs to the cellar, I +looked at the brick in my hand, and saw that by doing violence to the +language it might be called "bread." By its weight and hardness it +certainly must have been unleavened. + +The light was very dim down in the cellar, and before I knew it some +other man had thrust a pannikin into my other hand. Then I stumbled on +to a still darker room, where were benches and tables and men. The place +smelled vilely, and the sombre gloom, and the mumble of voices from out +of the obscurity, made it seem more like some anteroom to the infernal +regions. + +Most of the men were suffering from tired feet, and they prefaced the +meal by removing their shoes and unbinding the filthy rags with which +their feet were wrapped. This added to the general noisomeness, while it +took away from my appetite. + +In fact, I found that I had made a mistake. I had eaten a hearty dinner +five hours before, and to have done justice to the fare before me I +should have fasted for a couple of days. The pannikin contained skilly, +three-quarters of a pint, a mixture of Indian corn and hot water. The +men were dipping their bread into heaps of salt scattered over the dirty +tables. I attempted the same, but the bread seemed to stick in my mouth, +and I remembered the words of the Carpenter, "You need a pint of water to +eat the bread nicely." + +I went over into a dark corner where I had observed other men going and +found the water. Then I returned and attacked the skilly. It was coarse +of texture, unseasoned, gross, and bitter. This bitterness which +lingered persistently in the mouth after the skilly had passed on, I +found especially repulsive. I struggled manfully, but was mastered by my +qualms, and half-a-dozen mouthfuls of skilly and bread was the measure of +my success. The man beside me ate his own share, and mine to boot, +scraped the pannikins, and looked hungrily for more. + +"I met a 'towny,' and he stood me too good a dinner," I explained. + +"An' I 'aven't 'ad a bite since yesterday mornin'," he replied. + +"How about tobacco?" I asked. "Will the bloke bother with a fellow now?" + +"Oh no," he answered me. "No bloomin' fear. This is the easiest spike +goin'. Y'oughto see some of them. Search you to the skin." + +The pannikins scraped clean, conversation began to spring up. "This +super'tendent 'ere is always writin' to the papers 'bout us mugs," said +the man on the other side of me. + +"What does he say?" I asked. + +"Oh, 'e sez we're no good, a lot o' blackguards an' scoundrels as won't +work. Tells all the ole tricks I've bin 'earin' for twenty years an' +w'ich I never seen a mug ever do. Las' thing of 'is I see, 'e was +tellin' 'ow a mug gets out o' the spike, wi' a crust in 'is pockit. An' +w'en 'e sees a nice ole gentleman comin' along the street 'e chucks the +crust into the drain, an' borrows the old gent's stick to poke it out. +An' then the ole gent gi'es 'im a tanner." + +A roar of applause greeted the time-honoured yarn, and from somewhere +over in the deeper darkness came another voice, orating angrily: + +"Talk o' the country bein' good for tommy [food]; I'd like to see it. I +jest came up from Dover, an' blessed little tommy I got. They won't gi' +ye a drink o' water, they won't, much less tommy." + +"There's mugs never go out of Kent," spoke a second voice, "they live +bloomin' fat all along." + +"I come through Kent," went on the first voice, still more angrily, "an' +Gawd blimey if I see any tommy. An' I always notices as the blokes as +talks about 'ow much they can get, w'en they're in the spike can eat my +share o' skilly as well as their bleedin' own." + +"There's chaps in London," said a man across the table from me, "that get +all the tommy they want, an' they never think o' goin' to the country. +Stay in London the year 'round. Nor do they think of lookin' for a kip +[place to sleep], till nine or ten o'clock at night." + +A general chorus verified this statement + +"But they're bloomin' clever, them chaps," said an admiring voice. + +"Course they are," said another voice. "But it's not the likes of me an' +you can do it. You got to be born to it, I say. Them chaps 'ave ben +openin' cabs an' sellin' papers since the day they was born, an' their +fathers an' mothers before 'em. It's all in the trainin', I say, an' the +likes of me an' you 'ud starve at it." + +This also was verified by the general chorus, and likewise the statement +that there were "mugs as lives the twelvemonth 'round in the spike an' +never get a blessed bit o' tommy other than spike skilly an' bread." + +"I once got arf a crown in the Stratford spike," said a new voice. +Silence fell on the instant, and all listened to the wonderful tale. +"There was three of us breakin' stones. Winter-time, an' the cold was +cruel. T'other two said they'd be blessed if they do it, an' they +didn't; but I kept wearin' into mine to warm up, you know. An' then the +guardians come, an' t'other chaps got run in for fourteen days, an' the +guardians, w'en they see wot I'd been doin', gives me a tanner each, five +o' them, an' turns me up." + +The majority of these men, nay, all of them, I found, do not like the +spike, and only come to it when driven in. After the "rest up" they are +good for two or three days and nights on the streets, when they are +driven in again for another rest. Of course, this continuous hardship +quickly breaks their constitutions, and they realise it, though only in a +vague way; while it is so much the common run of things that they do not +worry about it. + +"On the doss," they call vagabondage here, which corresponds to "on the +road" in the United States. The agreement is that kipping, or dossing, +or sleeping, is the hardest problem they have to face, harder even than +that of food. The inclement weather and the harsh laws are mainly +responsible for this, while the men themselves ascribe their homelessness +to foreign immigration, especially of Polish and Russian Jews, who take +their places at lower wages and establish the sweating system. + +By seven o'clock we were called away to bathe and go to bed. We stripped +our clothes, wrapping them up in our coats and buckling our belts about +them, and deposited them in a heaped rack and on the floor--a beautiful +scheme for the spread of vermin. Then, two by two, we entered the +bathroom. There were two ordinary tubs, and this I know: the two men +preceding had washed in that water, we washed in the same water, and it +was not changed for the two men that followed us. This I know; but I am +also certain that the twenty-two of us washed in the same water. + +I did no more than make a show of splashing some of this dubious liquid +at myself, while I hastily brushed it off with a towel wet from the +bodies of other men. My equanimity was not restored by seeing the back +of one poor wretch a mass of blood from attacks of vermin and retaliatory +scratching. + +A shirt was handed me--which I could not help but wonder how many other +men had worn; and with a couple of blankets under my arm I trudged off to +the sleeping apartment. This was a long, narrow room, traversed by two +low iron rails. Between these rails were stretched, not hammocks, but +pieces of canvas, six feet long and less than two feet wide. These were +the beds, and they were six inches apart and about eight inches above the +floor. The chief difficulty was that the head was somewhat higher than +the feet, which caused the body constantly to slip down. Being slung to +the same rails, when one man moved, no matter how slightly, the rest were +set rocking; and whenever I dozed somebody was sure to struggle back to +the position from which he had slipped, and arouse me again. + +Many hours passed before I won to sleep. It was only seven in the +evening, and the voices of children, in shrill outcry, playing in the +street, continued till nearly midnight. The smell was frightful and +sickening, while my imagination broke loose, and my skin crept and +crawled till I was nearly frantic. Grunting, groaning, and snoring arose +like the sounds emitted by some sea monster, and several times, afflicted +by nightmare, one or another, by his shrieks and yells, aroused the lot +of us. Toward morning I was awakened by a rat or some similar animal on +my breast. In the quick transition from sleep to waking, before I was +completely myself, I raised a shout to wake the dead. At any rate, I +woke the living, and they cursed me roundly for my lack of manners. + +But morning came, with a six o'clock breakfast of bread and skilly, which +I gave away, and we were told off to our various tasks. Some were set to +scrubbing and cleaning, others to picking oakum, and eight of us were +convoyed across the street to the Whitechapel Infirmary where we were set +at scavenger work. This was the method by which we paid for our skilly +and canvas, and I, for one, know that I paid in full many times over. + +Though we had most revolting tasks to perform, our allotment was +considered the best and the other men deemed themselves lucky in being +chosen to perform it. + +"Don't touch it, mate, the nurse sez it's deadly," warned my working +partner, as I held open a sack into which he was emptying a garbage can. + +It came from the sick wards, and I told him that I purposed neither to +touch it, nor to allow it to touch me. Nevertheless, I had to carry the +sack, and other sacks, down five flights of stairs and empty them in a +receptacle where the corruption was speedily sprinkled with strong +disinfectant. + +Perhaps there is a wise mercy in all this. These men of the spike, the +peg, and the street, are encumbrances. They are of no good or use to any +one, nor to themselves. They clutter the earth with their presence, and +are better out of the way. Broken by hardship, ill fed, and worse +nourished, they are always the first to be struck down by disease, as +they are likewise the quickest to die. + +They feel, themselves, that the forces of society tend to hurl them out +of existence. We were sprinkling disinfectant by the mortuary, when the +dead waggon drove up and five bodies were packed into it. The +conversation turned to the "white potion" and "black jack," and I found +they were all agreed that the poor person, man or woman, who in the +Infirmary gave too much trouble or was in a bad way, was "polished off." +That is to say, the incurables and the obstreperous were given a dose of +"black jack" or the "white potion," and sent over the divide. It does +not matter in the least whether this be actually so or not. The point +is, they have the feeling that it is so, and they have created the +language with which to express that feeling--"black jack" "white potion," +"polishing off." + +At eight o'clock we went down into a cellar under the infirmary, where +tea was brought to us, and the hospital scraps. These were heaped high +on a huge platter in an indescribable mess--pieces of bread, chunks of +grease and fat pork, the burnt skin from the outside of roasted joints, +bones, in short, all the leavings from the fingers and mouths of the sick +ones suffering from all manner of diseases. Into this mess the men +plunged their hands, digging, pawing, turning over, examining, rejecting, +and scrambling for. It wasn't pretty. Pigs couldn't have done worse. +But the poor devils were hungry, and they ate ravenously of the swill, +and when they could eat no more they bundled what was left into their +handkerchiefs and thrust it inside their shirts. + +"Once, w'en I was 'ere before, wot did I find out there but a 'ole lot of +pork-ribs," said Ginger to me. By "out there" he meant the place where +the corruption was dumped and sprinkled with strong disinfectant. "They +was a prime lot, no end o' meat on 'em, an' I 'ad 'em into my arms an' +was out the gate an' down the street, a-lookin' for some 'un to gi' 'em +to. Couldn't see a soul, an' I was runnin' 'round clean crazy, the bloke +runnin' after me an' thinkin' I was 'slingin' my 'ook' [running away]. +But jest before 'e got me, I got a ole woman an' poked 'em into 'er +apron." + +O Charity, O Philanthropy, descend to the spike and take a lesson from +Ginger. At the bottom of the Abyss he performed as purely an altruistic +act as was ever performed outside the Abyss. It was fine of Ginger, and +if the old woman caught some contagion from the "no end o' meat" on the +pork-ribs, it was still fine, though not so fine. But the most salient +thing in this incident, it seems to me, is poor Ginger, "clean crazy" at +sight of so much food going to waste. + +It is the rule of the casual ward that a man who enters must stay two +nights and a day; but I had seen sufficient for my purpose, had paid for +my skilly and canvas, and was preparing to run for it. + +"Come on, let's sling it," I said to one of my mates, pointing toward the +open gate through which the dead waggon had come. + +"An' get fourteen days?" + +"No; get away." + +"Aw, I come 'ere for a rest," he said complacently. "An' another night's +kip won't 'urt me none." + +They were all of this opinion, so I was forced to "sling it" alone. + +"You cawn't ever come back 'ere again for a doss," they warned me. + +"No fear," said I, with an enthusiasm they could not comprehend; and, +dodging out the gate, I sped down the street. + +Straight to my room I hurried, changed my clothes, and less than an hour +from my escape, in a Turkish bath, I was sweating out whatever germs and +other things had penetrated my epidermis, and wishing that I could stand +a temperature of three hundred and twenty rather than two hundred and +twenty. + + + + +CHAPTER X--CARRYING THE BANNER + + +"To carry the banner" means to walk the streets all night; and I, with +the figurative emblem hoisted, went out to see what I could see. Men and +women walk the streets at night all over this great city, but I selected +the West End, making Leicester Square my base, and scouting about from +the Thames Embankment to Hyde Park. + +The rain was falling heavily when the theatres let out, and the brilliant +throng which poured from the places of amusement was hard put to find +cabs. The streets were so many wild rivers of cabs, most of which were +engaged, however; and here I saw the desperate attempts of ragged men and +boys to get a shelter from the night by procuring cabs for the cabless +ladies and gentlemen. I use the word "desperate" advisedly, for these +wretched, homeless ones were gambling a soaking against a bed; and most +of them, I took notice, got the soaking and missed the bed. Now, to go +through a stormy night with wet clothes, and, in addition, to be ill +nourished and not to have tasted meat for a week or a month, is about as +severe a hardship as a man can undergo. Well fed and well clad, I have +travelled all day with the spirit thermometer down to seventy-four +degrees below zero--one hundred and six degrees of frost {1}; and though +I suffered, it was a mere nothing compared with carrying the banner for a +night, ill fed, ill clad, and soaking wet. + +The streets grew very quiet and lonely after the theatre crowd had gone +home. Only were to be seen the ubiquitous policemen, flashing their dark +lanterns into doorways and alleys, and men and women and boys taking +shelter in the lee of buildings from the wind and rain. Piccadilly, +however, was not quite so deserted. Its pavements were brightened by +well-dressed women without escort, and there was more life and action +there than elsewhere, due to the process of finding escort. But by three +o'clock the last of them had vanished, and it was then indeed lonely. + +At half-past one the steady downpour ceased, and only showers fell +thereafter. The homeless folk came away from the protection of the +buildings, and slouched up and down and everywhere, in order to rush up +the circulation and keep warm. + +One old woman, between fifty and sixty, a sheer wreck, I had noticed +earlier in the night standing in Piccadilly, not far from Leicester +Square. She seemed to have neither the sense nor the strength to get out +of the rain or keep walking, but stood stupidly, whenever she got the +chance, meditating on past days, I imagine, when life was young and blood +was warm. But she did not get the chance often. She was moved on by +every policeman, and it required an average of six moves to send her +doddering off one man's beat and on to another's. By three o'clock, she +had progressed as far as St. James Street, and as the clocks were +striking four I saw her sleeping soundly against the iron railings of +Green Park. A brisk shower was falling at the time, and she must have +been drenched to the skin. + +Now, said I, at one o'clock, to myself; consider that you are a poor +young man, penniless, in London Town, and that to-morrow you must look +for work. It is necessary, therefore, that you get some sleep in order +that you may have strength to look for work and to do work in case you +find it. + +So I sat down on the stone steps of a building. Five minutes later a +policeman was looking at me. My eyes were wide open, so he only grunted +and passed on. Ten minutes later my head was on my knees, I was dozing, +and the same policeman was saying gruffly, "'Ere, you, get outa that!" + +I got. And, like the old woman, I continued to get; for every time I +dozed, a policeman was there to rout me along again. Not long after, +when I had given this up, I was walking with a young Londoner (who had +been out to the colonies and wished he were out to them again), when I +noticed an open passage leading under a building and disappearing in +darkness. A low iron gate barred the entrance. + +"Come on," I said. "Let's climb over and get a good sleep." + +"Wot?" he answered, recoiling from me. "An' get run in fer three months! +Blimey if I do!" + +Later on I was passing Hyde Park with a young boy of fourteen or fifteen, +a most wretched-looking youth, gaunt and hollow-eyed and sick. + +"Let's go over the fence," I proposed, "and crawl into the shrubbery for +a sleep. The bobbies couldn't find us there." + +"No fear," he answered. "There's the park guardians, and they'd run you +in for six months." + +Times have changed, alas! When I was a youngster I used to read of +homeless boys sleeping in doorways. Already the thing has become a +tradition. As a stock situation it will doubtless linger in literature +for a century to come, but as a cold fact it has ceased to be. Here are +the doorways, and here are the boys, but happy conjunctions are no longer +effected. The doorways remain empty, and the boys keep awake and carry +the banner. + +"I was down under the arches," grumbled another young fellow. By +"arches" he meant the shore arches where begin the bridges that span the +Thames. "I was down under the arches wen it was ryning its 'ardest, an' +a bobby comes in an' chyses me out. But I come back, an' 'e come too. +''Ere,' sez 'e, 'wot you doin' 'ere?' An' out I goes, but I sez, 'Think +I want ter pinch [steal] the bleedin' bridge?'" + +Among those who carry the banner, Green Park has the reputation of +opening its gates earlier than the other parks, and at quarter-past four +in the morning, I, and many more, entered Green Park. It was raining +again, but they were worn out with the night's walking, and they were +down on the benches and asleep at once. Many of the men stretched out +full length on the dripping wet grass, and, with the rain falling +steadily upon them, were sleeping the sleep of exhaustion. + +And now I wish to criticise the powers that be. They _are_ the powers, +therefore they may decree whatever they please; so I make bold only to +criticise the ridiculousness of their decrees. All night long they make +the homeless ones walk up and down. They drive them out of doors and +passages, and lock them out of the parks. The evident intention of all +this is to deprive them of sleep. Well and good, the powers have the +power to deprive them of sleep, or of anything else for that matter; but +why under the sun do they open the gates of the parks at five o'clock in +the morning and let the homeless ones go inside and sleep? If it is +their intention to deprive them of sleep, why do they let them sleep +after five in the morning? And if it is not their intention to deprive +them of sleep, why don't they let them sleep earlier in the night? + +In this connection, I will say that I came by Green Park that same day, +at one in the afternoon, and that I counted scores of the ragged wretches +asleep in the grass. It was Sunday afternoon, the sun was fitfully +appearing, and the well-dressed West Enders, with their wives and +progeny, were out by thousands, taking the air. It was not a pleasant +sight for them, those horrible, unkempt, sleeping vagabonds; while the +vagabonds themselves, I know, would rather have done their sleeping the +night before. + +And so, dear soft people, should you ever visit London Town, and see +these men asleep on the benches and in the grass, please do not think +they are lazy creatures, preferring sleep to work. Know that the powers +that be have kept them walking all the night long, and that in the day +they have nowhere else to sleep. + + + + +CHAPTER XI--THE PEG + + +But, after carrying the banner all night, I did not sleep in Green Park +when morning dawned. I was wet to the skin, it is true, and I had had no +sleep for twenty-four hours; but, still adventuring as a penniless man +looking for work, I had to look about me, first for a breakfast, and next +for the work. + +During the night I had heard of a place over on the Surrey side of the +Thames, where the Salvation Army every Sunday morning gave away a +breakfast to the unwashed. (And, by the way, the men who carry the +banner are unwashed in the morning, and unless it is raining they do not +have much show for a wash, either.) This, thought I, is the very +thing--breakfast in the morning, and then the whole day in which to look +for work. + +It was a weary walk. Down St. James Street I dragged my tired legs, +along Pall Mall, past Trafalgar Square, to the Strand. I crossed the +Waterloo Bridge to the Surrey side, cut across to Blackfriars Road, +coming out near the Surrey Theatre, and arrived at the Salvation Army +barracks before seven o'clock. This was "the peg." And by "the peg," in +the argot, is meant the place where a free meal may be obtained. + +Here was a motley crowd of woebegone wretches who had spent the night in +the rain. Such prodigious misery! and so much of it! Old men, young +men, all manner of men, and boys to boot, and all manner of boys. Some +were drowsing standing up; half a score of them were stretched out on the +stone steps in most painful postures, all of them sound asleep, the skin +of their bodies showing red through the holes, and rents in their rags. +And up and down the street and across the street for a block either way, +each doorstep had from two to three occupants, all asleep, their heads +bent forward on their knees. And, it must be remembered, these are not +hard times in England. Things are going on very much as they ordinarily +do, and times are neither hard nor easy. + +And then came the policeman. "Get outa that, you bloomin' swine! Eigh! +eigh! Get out now!" And like swine he drove them from the doorways and +scattered them to the four winds of Surrey. But when he encountered the +crowd asleep on the steps he was astounded. "Shocking!" he exclaimed. +"Shocking! And of a Sunday morning! A pretty sight! Eigh! eigh! Get +outa that, you bleeding nuisances!" + +Of course it was a shocking sight, I was shocked myself. And I should +not care to have my own daughter pollute her eyes with such a sight, or +come within half a mile of it; but--and there we were, and there you are, +and "but" is all that can be said. + +The policeman passed on, and back we clustered, like flies around a honey +jar. For was there not that wonderful thing, a breakfast, awaiting us? +We could not have clustered more persistently and desperately had they +been giving away million-dollar bank-notes. Some were already off to +sleep, when back came the policeman and away we scattered only to return +again as soon as the coast was clear. + +At half-past seven a little door opened, and a Salvation Army soldier +stuck out his head. "Ayn't no sense blockin' the wy up that wy," he +said. "Those as 'as tickets cawn come hin now, an' those as 'asn't +cawn't come hin till nine." + +Oh, that breakfast! Nine o'clock! An hour and a half longer! The men +who held tickets were greatly envied. They were permitted to go inside, +have a wash, and sit down and rest until breakfast, while we waited for +the same breakfast on the street. The tickets had been distributed the +previous night on the streets and along the Embankment, and the +possession of them was not a matter of merit, but of chance. + +At eight-thirty, more men with tickets were admitted, and by nine the +little gate was opened to us. We crushed through somehow, and found +ourselves packed in a courtyard like sardines. On more occasions than +one, as a Yankee tramp in Yankeeland, I have had to work for my +breakfast; but for no breakfast did I ever work so hard as for this one. +For over two hours I had waited outside, and for over another hour I +waited in this packed courtyard. I had had nothing to eat all night, and +I was weak and faint, while the smell of the soiled clothes and unwashed +bodies, steaming from pent animal heat, and blocked solidly about me, +nearly turned my stomach. So tightly were we packed, that a number of +the men took advantage of the opportunity and went soundly asleep +standing up. + +Now, about the Salvation Army in general I know nothing, and whatever +criticism I shall make here is of that particular portion of the +Salvation Army which does business on Blackfriars Road near the Surrey +Theatre. In the first place, this forcing of men who have been up all +night to stand on their feet for hours longer, is as cruel as it is +needless. We were weak, famished, and exhausted from our night's +hardship and lack of sleep, and yet there we stood, and stood, and stood, +without rhyme or reason. + +Sailors were very plentiful in this crowd. It seemed to me that one man +in four was looking for a ship, and I found at least a dozen of them to +be American sailors. In accounting for their being "on the beach," I +received the same story from each and all, and from my knowledge of sea +affairs this story rang true. English ships sign their sailors for the +voyage, which means the round trip, sometimes lasting as long as three +years; and they cannot sign off and receive their discharges until they +reach the home port, which is England. Their wages are low, their food +is bad, and their treatment worse. Very often they are really forced by +their captains to desert in the New World or the colonies, leaving a +handsome sum of wages behind them--a distinct gain, either to the captain +or the owners, or to both. But whether for this reason alone or not, it +is a fact that large numbers of them desert. Then, for the home voyage, +the ship engages whatever sailors it can find on the beach. These men +are engaged at the somewhat higher wages that obtain in other portions of +the world, under the agreement that they shall sign off on reaching +England. The reason for this is obvious; for it would be poor business +policy to sign them for any longer time, since seamen's wages are low in +England, and England is always crowded with sailormen on the beach. So +this fully accounted for the American seamen at the Salvation Army +barracks. To get off the beach in other outlandish places they had come +to England, and gone on the beach in the most outlandish place of all. + +There were fully a score of Americans in the crowd, the non-sailors being +"tramps royal," the men whose "mate is the wind that tramps the world." +They were all cheerful, facing things with the pluck which is their chief +characteristic and which seems never to desert them, withal they were +cursing the country with lurid metaphors quite refreshing after a month +of unimaginative, monotonous Cockney swearing. The Cockney has one oath, +and one oath only, the most indecent in the language, which he uses on +any and every occasion. Far different is the luminous and varied Western +swearing, which runs to blasphemy rather than indecency. And after all, +since men will swear, I think I prefer blasphemy to indecency; there is +an audacity about it, an adventurousness and defiance that is better than +sheer filthiness. + +There was one American tramp royal whom I found particularly enjoyable. I +first noticed him on the street, asleep in a doorway, his head on his +knees, but a hat on his head that one does not meet this side of the +Western Ocean. When the policeman routed him out, he got up slowly and +deliberately, looked at the policeman, yawned and stretched himself, +looked at the policeman again as much as to say he didn't know whether he +would or wouldn't, and then sauntered leisurely down the sidewalk. At +the outset I was sure of the hat, but this made me sure of the wearer of +the hat. + +In the jam inside I found myself alongside of him, and we had quite a +chat. He had been through Spain, Italy, Switzerland, and France, and had +accomplished the practically impossible feat of beating his way three +hundred miles on a French railway without being caught at the finish. +Where was I hanging out? he asked. And how did I manage for +"kipping"?--which means sleeping. Did I know the rounds yet? He was +getting on, though the country was "horstyl" and the cities were "bum." +Fierce, wasn't it? Couldn't "batter" (beg) anywhere without being +"pinched." But he wasn't going to quit it. Buffalo Bill's Show was +coming over soon, and a man who could drive eight horses was sure of a +job any time. These mugs over here didn't know beans about driving +anything more than a span. What was the matter with me hanging on and +waiting for Buffalo Bill? He was sure I could ring in somehow. + +And so, after all, blood is thicker than water. We were +fellow-countrymen and strangers in a strange land. I had warmed to his +battered old hat at sight of it, and he was as solicitous for my welfare +as if we were blood brothers. We swapped all manner of useful +information concerning the country and the ways of its people, methods by +which to obtain food and shelter and what not, and we parted genuinely +sorry at having to say good-bye. + +One thing particularly conspicuous in this crowd was the shortness of +stature. I, who am but of medium height, looked over the heads of nine +out of ten. The natives were all short, as were the foreign sailors. +There were only five or six in the crowd who could be called fairly tall, +and they were Scandinavians and Americans. The tallest man there, +however, was an exception. He was an Englishman, though not a Londoner. +"Candidate for the Life Guards," I remarked to him. "You've hit it, +mate," was his reply; "I've served my bit in that same, and the way +things are I'll be back at it before long." + +For an hour we stood quietly in this packed courtyard. Then the men +began to grow restless. There was pushing and shoving forward, and a +mild hubbub of voices. Nothing rough, however, nor violent; merely the +restlessness of weary and hungry men. At this juncture forth came the +adjutant. I did not like him. His eyes were not good. There was +nothing of the lowly Galilean about him, but a great deal of the +centurion who said: "For I am a man in authority, having soldiers under +me; and I say to this man, Go, and he goeth; and to another, Come, and he +cometh; and to my servant, Do this, and he doeth it." + +Well, he looked at us in just that way, and those nearest to him quailed. +Then he lifted his voice. + +"Stop this 'ere, now, or I'll turn you the other wy an' march you out, +an' you'll get no breakfast." + +I cannot convey by printed speech the insufferable way in which he said +this. He seemed to me to revel in that he was a man in authority, able +to say to half a thousand ragged wretches, "you may eat or go hungry, as +I elect." + +To deny us our breakfast after standing for hours! It was an awful +threat, and the pitiful, abject silence which instantly fell attested its +awfulness. And it was a cowardly threat. We could not strike back, for +we were starving; and it is the way of the world that when one man feeds +another he is that man's master. But the centurion--I mean the +adjutant--was not satisfied. In the dead silence he raised his voice +again, and repeated the threat, and amplified it. + +At last we were permitted to enter the feasting hall, where we found the +"ticket men" washed but unfed. All told, there must have been nearly +seven hundred of us who sat down--not to meat or bread, but to speech, +song, and prayer. From all of which I am convinced that Tantalus suffers +in many guises this side of the infernal regions. The adjutant made the +prayer, but I did not take note of it, being too engrossed with the +massed picture of misery before me. But the speech ran something like +this: "You will feast in Paradise. No matter how you starve and suffer +here, you will feast in Paradise, that is, if you will follow the +directions." And so forth and so forth. A clever bit of propaganda, I +took it, but rendered of no avail for two reasons. First, the men who +received it were unimaginative and materialistic, unaware of the +existence of any Unseen, and too inured to hell on earth to be frightened +by hell to come. And second, weary and exhausted from the night's +sleeplessness and hardship, suffering from the long wait upon their feet, +and faint from hunger, they were yearning, not for salvation, but for +grub. The "soul-snatchers" (as these men call all religious +propagandists), should study the physiological basis of psychology a +little, if they wish to make their efforts more effective. + +All in good time, about eleven o'clock, breakfast arrived. It arrived, +not on plates, but in paper parcels. I did not have all I wanted, and I +am sure that no man there had all he wanted, or half of what he wanted or +needed. I gave part of my bread to the tramp royal who was waiting for +Buffalo Bill, and he was as ravenous at the end as he was in the +beginning. This is the breakfast: two slices of bread, one small piece +of bread with raisins in it and called "cake," a wafer of cheese, and a +mug of "water bewitched." Numbers of the men had been waiting since five +o'clock for it, while all of us had waited at least four hours; and in +addition, we had been herded like swine, packed like sardines, and +treated like curs, and been preached at, and sung to, and prayed for. Nor +was that all. + +No sooner was breakfast over (and it was over almost as quickly as it +takes to tell), than the tired heads began to nod and droop, and in five +minutes half of us were sound asleep. There were no signs of our being +dismissed, while there were unmistakable signs of preparation for a +meeting. I looked at a small clock hanging on the wall. It indicated +twenty-five minutes to twelve. Heigh-ho, thought I, time is flying, and +I have yet to look for work. + +"I want to go," I said to a couple of waking men near me. + +"Got ter sty fer the service," was the answer. + +"Do you want to stay?" I asked. + +They shook their heads. + +"Then let us go and tell them we want to get out," I continued. "Come +on." + +But the poor creatures were aghast. So I left them to their fate, and +went up to the nearest Salvation Army man. + +"I want to go," I said. "I came here for breakfast in order that I might +be in shape to look for work. I didn't think it would take so long to +get breakfast. I think I have a chance for work in Stepney, and the +sooner I start, the better chance I'll have of getting it." + +He was really a good fellow, though he was startled by my request. "Wy," +he said, "we're goin' to 'old services, and you'd better sty." + +"But that will spoil my chances for work," I urged. "And work is the +most important thing for me just now." + +As he was only a private, he referred me to the adjutant, and to the +adjutant I repeated my reasons for wishing to go, and politely requested +that he let me go. + +"But it cawn't be done," he said, waxing virtuously indignant at such +ingratitude. "The idea!" he snorted. "The idea!" + +"Do you mean to say that I can't get out of here?" I demanded. "That you +will keep me here against my will?" + +"Yes," he snorted. + +I do not know what might have happened, for I was waxing indignant +myself; but the "congregation" had "piped" the situation, and he drew me +over to a corner of the room, and then into another room. Here he again +demanded my reasons for wishing to go. + +"I want to go," I said, "because I wish to look for work over in Stepney, +and every hour lessens my chance of finding work. It is now twenty-five +minutes to twelve. I did not think when I came in that it would take so +long to get a breakfast." + +"You 'ave business, eh?" he sneered. "A man of business you are, eh? +Then wot did you come 'ere for?" + +"I was out all night, and I needed a breakfast in order to strengthen me +to find work. That is why I came here." + +"A nice thing to do," he went on in the same sneering manner. "A man +with business shouldn't come 'ere. You've tyken some poor man's +breakfast 'ere this morning, that's wot you've done." + +Which was a lie, for every mother's son of us had come in. + +Now I submit, was this Christian-like, or even honest?--after I had +plainly stated that I was homeless and hungry, and that I wished to look +for work, for him to call my looking for work "business," to call me +therefore a business man, and to draw the corollary that a man of +business, and well off, did not require a charity breakfast, and that by +taking a charity breakfast I had robbed some hungry waif who was not a +man of business. + +I kept my temper, but I went over the facts again, and clearly and +concisely demonstrated to him how unjust he was and how he had perverted +the facts. As I manifested no signs of backing down (and I am sure my +eyes were beginning to snap), he led me to the rear of the building +where, in an open court, stood a tent. In the same sneering tone he +informed a couple of privates standing there that "'ere is a fellow that +'as business an' 'e wants to go before services." + +They were duly shocked, of course, and they looked unutterable horror +while he went into the tent and brought out the major. Still in the same +sneering manner, laying particular stress on the "business," he brought +my case before the commanding officer. The major was of a different +stamp of man. I liked him as soon as I saw him, and to him I stated my +case in the same fashion as before. + +"Didn't you know you had to stay for services?" he asked. + +"Certainly not," I answered, "or I should have gone without my breakfast. +You have no placards posted to that effect, nor was I so informed when I +entered the place." + +He meditated a moment. "You can go," he said. + +It was twelve o'clock when I gained the street, and I couldn't quite make +up my mind whether I had been in the army or in prison. The day was half +gone, and it was a far fetch to Stepney. And besides, it was Sunday, and +why should even a starving man look for work on Sunday? Furthermore, it +was my judgment that I had done a hard night's work walking the streets, +and a hard day's work getting my breakfast; so I disconnected myself from +my working hypothesis of a starving young man in search of employment, +hailed a bus, and climbed aboard. + +After a shave and a bath, with my clothes all off, I got in between clean +white sheets and went to sleep. It was six in the evening when I closed +my eyes. When they opened again, the clocks were striking nine next +morning. I had slept fifteen straight hours. And as I lay there +drowsily, my mind went back to the seven hundred unfortunates I had left +waiting for services. No bath, no shave for them, no clean white sheets +and all clothes off, and fifteen hours' straight sleep. Services over, +it was the weary streets again, the problem of a crust of bread ere +night, and the long sleepless night in the streets, and the pondering of +the problem of how to obtain a crust at dawn. + + + + +CHAPTER XII--CORONATION DAY + + + O thou that sea-walls sever + From lands unwalled by seas! + Wilt thou endure forever, + O Milton's England, these? + Thou that wast his Republic, + Wilt thou clasp their knees? + These royalties rust-eaten, + These worm-corroded lies + That keep thy head storm-beaten, + And sun-like strength of eyes + From the open air and heaven + Of intercepted skies! + + SWINBURNE. + +Vivat Rex Eduardus! They crowned a king this day, and there has been +great rejoicing and elaborate tomfoolery, and I am perplexed and +saddened. I never saw anything to compare with the pageant, except +Yankee circuses and Alhambra ballets; nor did I ever see anything so +hopeless and so tragic. + +To have enjoyed the Coronation procession, I should have come straight +from America to the Hotel Cecil, and straight from the Hotel Cecil to a +five-guinea seat among the washed. My mistake was in coming from the +unwashed of the East End. There were not many who came from that +quarter. The East End, as a whole, remained in the East End and got +drunk. The Socialists, Democrats, and Republicans went off to the +country for a breath of fresh air, quite unaffected by the fact that four +hundred millions of people were taking to themselves a crowned and +anointed ruler. Six thousand five hundred prelates, priests, statesmen, +princes, and warriors beheld the crowning and anointing, and the rest of +us the pageant as it passed. + +I saw it at Trafalgar Square, "the most splendid site in Europe," and the +very innermost heart of the empire. There were many thousands of us, all +checked and held in order by a superb display of armed power. The line +of march was double-walled with soldiers. The base of the Nelson Column +was triple-fringed with bluejackets. Eastward, at the entrance to the +square, stood the Royal Marine Artillery. In the triangle of Pall Mall +and Cockspur Street, the statue of George III. was buttressed on either +side by the Lancers and Hussars. To the west were the red-coats of the +Royal Marines, and from the Union Club to the embouchure of Whitehall +swept the glittering, massive curve of the 1st Life Guards--gigantic men +mounted on gigantic chargers, steel-breastplated, steel-helmeted, steel- +caparisoned, a great war-sword of steel ready to the hand of the powers +that be. And further, throughout the crowd, were flung long lines of the +Metropolitan Constabulary, while in the rear were the reserves--tall, +well-fed men, with weapons to wield and muscles to wield them in ease of +need. + +And as it was thus at Trafalgar Square, so was it along the whole line of +march--force, overpowering force; myriads of men, splendid men, the pick +of the people, whose sole function in life is blindly to obey, and +blindly to kill and destroy and stamp out life. And that they should be +well fed, well clothed, and well armed, and have ships to hurl them to +the ends of the earth, the East End of London, and the "East End" of all +England, toils and rots and dies. + +There is a Chinese proverb that if one man lives in laziness another will +die of hunger; and Montesquieu has said, "The fact that many men are +occupied in making clothes for one individual is the cause of there being +many people without clothes." So one explains the other. We cannot +understand the starved and runty {2} toiler of the East End (living with +his family in a one-room den, and letting out the floor space for +lodgings to other starved and runty toilers) till we look at the +strapping Life Guardsmen of the West End, and come to know that the one +must feed and clothe and groom the other. + +And while in Westminster Abbey the people were taking unto themselves a +king, I, jammed between the Life Guards and Constabulary of Trafalgar +Square, was dwelling upon the time when the people of Israel first took +unto themselves a king. You all know how it runs. The elders came to +the prophet Samuel, and said: "Make us a king to judge us like all the +nations." + + And the Lord said unto Samuel: Now therefore hearken unto their voice; + howbeit thou shalt show them the manner of the king that shall reign + over them. + + And Samuel told all the words of the Lord unto the people that asked + of him a king, and he said: + + This will be the manner of the king that shall reign over you; he will + take your sons, and appoint them unto him, for his chariots, and to be + his horsemen, and they shall run before his chariots. + + And he will appoint them unto him for captains of thousands, and + captains of fifties; and he will set some to plough his ground, and to + reap his harvest, and to make his instruments of war, and the + instruments of his chariots. + + And he will take your daughters to be confectionaries, and to be + cooks, and to be bakers. + + And he will take your fields and your vineyards, and your oliveyards, + even the best of them, and give them to his servants. + + And he will take a tenth of your seed, and of your vineyards, and give + to his officers, and to his servants. + + And he will take your menservants, and your maidservants, and your + goodliest young men, and your asses, and put them to his work. + + He will take a tenth of your flocks; and ye shall be his servants. + + And ye shall call out in that day because of your king which ye shall + have chosen you; and the Lord will not answer you in that day. + +All of which came to pass in that ancient day, and they did cry out to +Samuel, saying: "Pray for thy servants unto the Lord thy God, that we die +not; for we have added unto all our sins this evil, to ask us a king." +And after Saul, David, and Solomon, came Rehoboam, who "answered the +people roughly, saying: My father made your yoke heavy, but I will add to +your yoke; my father chastised you with whips, but I will chastise you +with scorpions." + +And in these latter days, five hundred hereditary peers own one-fifth of +England; and they, and the officers and servants under the King, and +those who go to compose the powers that be, yearly spend in wasteful +luxury $1,850,000,000, or 370,000,000 pounds, which is thirty-two per +cent. of the total wealth produced by all the toilers of the country. + +At the Abbey, clad in wonderful golden raiment, amid fanfare of trumpets +and throbbing of music, surrounded by a brilliant throng of masters, +lords, and rulers, the King was being invested with the insignia of his +sovereignty. The spurs were placed to his heels by the Lord Great +Chamberlain, and a sword of state, in purple scabbard, was presented him +by the Archbishop of Canterbury, with these words:- + + Receive this kingly sword brought now from the altar of God, and + delivered to you by the hands of the bishops and servants of God, + though unworthy. + +Whereupon, being girded, he gave heed to the Archbishop's exhortation:- + + With this sword do justice, stop the growth of iniquity, protect the + Holy Church of God, help and defend widows and orphans, restore the + things that are gone to decay, maintain the things that are restored, + punish and reform what is amiss, and confirm what is in good order. + +But hark! There is cheering down Whitehall; the crowd sways, the double +walls of soldiers come to attention, and into view swing the King's +watermen, in fantastic mediaeval garbs of red, for all the world like the +van of a circus parade. Then a royal carriage, filled with ladies and +gentlemen of the household, with powdered footmen and coachmen most +gorgeously arrayed. More carriages, lords, and chamberlains, viscounts, +mistresses of the robes--lackeys all. Then the warriors, a kingly +escort, generals, bronzed and worn, from the ends of the earth come up to +London Town, volunteer officers, officers of the militia and regular +forces; Spens and Plumer, Broadwood and Cooper who relieved Ookiep, +Mathias of Dargai, Dixon of Vlakfontein; General Gaselee and Admiral +Seymour of China; Kitchener of Khartoum; Lord Roberts of India and all +the world--the fighting men of England, masters of destruction, engineers +of death! Another race of men from those of the shops and slums, a +totally different race of men. + +But here they come, in all the pomp and certitude of power, and still +they come, these men of steel, these war lords and world harnessers. Pell- +mell, peers and commoners, princes and maharajahs, Equerries to the King +and Yeomen of the Guard. And here the colonials, lithe and hardy men; +and here all the breeds of all the world-soldiers from Canada, Australia, +New Zealand; from Bermuda, Borneo, Fiji, and the Gold Coast; from +Rhodesia, Cape Colony, Natal, Sierra Leone and Gambia, Nigeria, and +Uganda; from Ceylon, Cyprus, Hong-Kong, Jamaica, and Wei-Hai-Wei; from +Lagos, Malta, St. Lucia, Singapore, Trinidad. And here the conquered men +of Ind, swarthy horsemen and sword wielders, fiercely barbaric, blazing +in crimson and scarlet, Sikhs, Rajputs, Burmese, province by province, +and caste by caste. + +And now the Horse Guards, a glimpse of beautiful cream ponies, and a +golden panoply, a hurricane of cheers, the crashing of bands--"The King! +the King! God save the King!" Everybody has gone mad. The contagion is +sweeping me off my feet--I, too, want to shout, "The King! God save the +King!" Ragged men about me, tears in their eyes, are tossing up their +hats and crying ecstatically, "Bless 'em! Bless 'em! Bless 'em!" See, +there he is, in that wondrous golden coach, the great crown flashing on +his head, the woman in white beside him likewise crowned. + +And I check myself with a rush, striving to convince myself that it is +all real and rational, and not some glimpse of fairyland. This I cannot +succeed in doing, and it is better so. I much prefer to believe that all +this pomp, and vanity, and show, and mumbo-jumbo foolery has come from +fairyland, than to believe it the performance of sane and sensible people +who have mastered matter and solved the secrets of the stars. + +Princes and princelings, dukes, duchesses, and all manner of coroneted +folk of the royal train are flashing past; more warriors, and lackeys, +and conquered peoples, and the pagent is over. I drift with the crowd +out of the square into a tangle of narrow streets, where the +public-houses are a-roar with drunkenness, men, women, and children mixed +together in colossal debauch. And on every side is rising the favourite +song of the Coronation:- + + "Oh! on Coronation Day, on Coronation Day, + We'll have a spree, a jubilee, and shout, Hip, hip, hooray, + For we'll all be marry, drinking whisky, wine, and sherry, + We'll all be merry on Coronation Day." + +The rain is pouring down. Up the street come troops of the auxiliaries, +black Africans and yellow Asiatics, beturbaned and befezed, and coolies +swinging along with machine guns and mountain batteries on their heads, +and the bare feet of all, in quick rhythm, going _slish, slish, slish_ +through the pavement mud. The public-houses empty by magic, and the +swarthy allegiants are cheered by their British brothers, who return at +once to the carouse. + +"And how did you like the procession, mate?" I asked an old man on a +bench in Green Park. + +"'Ow did I like it? A bloomin' good chawnce, sez I to myself, for a +sleep, wi' all the coppers aw'y, so I turned into the corner there, along +wi' fifty others. But I couldn't sleep, a-lyin' there an' thinkin' 'ow +I'd worked all the years o' my life an' now 'ad no plyce to rest my 'ead; +an' the music comin' to me, an' the cheers an' cannon, till I got almost +a hanarchist an' wanted to blow out the brains o' the Lord Chamberlain." + +Why the Lord Chamberlain I could not precisely see, nor could he, but +that was the way he felt, he said conclusively, and them was no more +discussion. + +As night drew on, the city became a blaze of light. Splashes of colour, +green, amber, and ruby, caught the eye at every point, and "E. R.," in +great crystal letters and backed by flaming gas, was everywhere. The +crowds in the streets increased by hundreds of thousands, and though the +police sternly put down mafficking, drunkenness and rough play abounded. +The tired workers seemed to have gone mad with the relaxation and +excitement, and they surged and danced down the streets, men and women, +old and young, with linked arms and in long rows, singing, "I may be +crazy, but I love you," "Dolly Gray," and "The Honeysuckle and the +Bee"--the last rendered something like this:- + + "Yew aw the enny, ennyseckle, Oi em ther bee, + Oi'd like ter sip ther enny from those red lips, yew see." + +I sat on a bench on the Thames Embankment, looking across the illuminated +water. It was approaching midnight, and before me poured the better +class of merrymakers, shunning the more riotous streets and returning +home. On the bench beside me sat two ragged creatures, a man and a +woman, nodding and dozing. The woman sat with her arms clasped across +the breast, holding tightly, her body in constant play--now dropping +forward till it seemed its balance would be overcome and she would fall +to the pavement; now inclining to the left, sideways, till her head +rested on the man's shoulder; and now to the right, stretched and +strained, till the pain of it awoke her and she sat bolt upright. +Whereupon the dropping forward would begin again and go through its cycle +till she was aroused by the strain and stretch. + +Every little while boys and young men stopped long enough to go behind +the bench and give vent to sudden and fiendish shouts. This always +jerked the man and woman abruptly from their sleep; and at sight of the +startled woe upon their faces the crowd would roar with laughter as it +flooded past. + +This was the most striking thing, the general heartlessness exhibited on +every hand. It is a commonplace, the homeless on the benches, the poor +miserable folk who may be teased and are harmless. Fifty thousand people +must have passed the bench while I sat upon it, and not one, on such a +jubilee occasion as the crowning of the King, felt his heart-strings +touched sufficiently to come up and say to the woman: "Here's sixpence; +go and get a bed." But the women, especially the young women, made witty +remarks upon the woman nodding, and invariably set their companions +laughing. + +To use a Briticism, it was "cruel"; the corresponding Americanism was +more appropriate--it was "fierce." I confess I began to grow incensed at +this happy crowd streaming by, and to extract a sort of satisfaction from +the London statistics which demonstrate that one in every four adults is +destined to die on public charity, either in the workhouse, the +infirmary, or the asylum. + +I talked with the man. He was fifty-four and a broken-down docker. He +could only find odd work when there was a large demand for labour, for +the younger and stronger men were preferred when times were slack. He +had spent a week, now, on the benches of the Embankment; but things +looked brighter for next week, and he might possibly get in a few days' +work and have a bed in some doss-house. He had lived all his life in +London, save for five years, when, in 1878, he saw foreign service in +India. + +Of course he would eat; so would the girl. Days like this were uncommon +hard on such as they, though the coppers were so busy poor folk could get +in more sleep. I awoke the girl, or woman, rather, for she was "Eyght +an' twenty, sir," and we started for a coffee-house. + +"Wot a lot o' work puttin' up the lights," said the man at sight of some +building superbly illuminated. This was the keynote of his being. All +his life he had worked, and the whole objective universe, as well as his +own soul, he could express in terms only of work. "Coronations is some +good," he went on. "They give work to men." + +"But your belly is empty," I said. + +"Yes," he answered. "I tried, but there wasn't any chawnce. My age is +against me. Wot do you work at? Seafarin' chap, eh? I knew it from yer +clothes." + +"I know wot you are," said the girl, "an Eyetalian." + +"No 'e ayn't," the man cried heatedly. "'E's a Yank, that's wot 'e is. I +know." + +"Lord lumne, look a' that," she exclaimed, as we debauched upon the +Strand, choked with the roaring, reeling Coronation crowd, the men +bellowing and the girls singing in high throaty notes:- + + "Oh! on Coronation D'y, on Coronation D'y, + We'll 'ave a spree, a jubilee, an' shout 'Ip, 'ip, 'ooray; + For we'll all be merry, drinkin' whisky, wine, and sherry, + We'll all be merry on Coronation D'y." + +"'Ow dirty I am, bein' around the w'y I 'ave," the woman said, as she sat +down in a coffee-house, wiping the sleep and grime from the corners of +her eyes. "An' the sights I 'ave seen this d'y, an' I enjoyed it, though +it was lonesome by myself. An' the duchesses an' the lydies 'ad sich +gran' w'ite dresses. They was jest bu'ful, bu'ful." + +"I'm Irish," she said, in answer to a question. "My nyme's Eyethorne." + +"What?" I asked. + +"Eyethorne, sir; Eyethorne." + +"Spell it." + +"H-a-y-t-h-o-r-n-e, Eyethorne.' + +"Oh," I said, "Irish Cockney." + +"Yes, sir, London-born." + +She had lived happily at home till her father died, killed in an +accident, when she had found herself on the world. One brother was in +the army, and the other brother, engaged in keeping a wife and eight +children on twenty shillings a week and unsteady employment, could do +nothing for her. She had been out of London once in her life, to a place +in Essex, twelve miles away, where she had picked fruit for three weeks: +"An' I was as brown as a berry w'en I come back. You won't b'lieve it, +but I was." + +The last place in which she had worked was a coffee-house, hours from +seven in the morning till eleven at night, and for which she had received +five shillings a week and her food. Then she had fallen sick, and since +emerging from the hospital had been unable to find anything to do. She +wasn't feeling up to much, and the last two nights had been spent in the +street. + +Between them they stowed away a prodigious amount of food, this man and +woman, and it was not till I had duplicated and triplicated their +original orders that they showed signs of easing down. + +Once she reached across and felt the texture of my coat and shirt, and +remarked upon the good clothes the Yanks wore. My rags good clothes! It +put me to the blush; but, on inspecting them more closely and on +examining the clothes worn by the man and woman, I began to feel quite +well dressed and respectable. + +"What do you expect to do in the end?" I asked them. "You know you're +growing older every day." + +"Work'ouse," said he. + +"Gawd blimey if I do," said she. "There's no 'ope for me, I know, but +I'll die on the streets. No work'ouse for me, thank you. No, indeed," +she sniffed in the silence that fell. + +"After you have been out all night in the streets," I asked, "what do you +do in the morning for something to eat?" + +"Try to get a penny, if you 'aven't one saved over," the man explained. +"Then go to a coffee-'ouse an' get a mug o' tea." + +"But I don't see how that is to feed you," I objected. + +The pair smiled knowingly. + +"You drink your tea in little sips," he went on, "making it last its +longest. An' you look sharp, an' there's some as leaves a bit be'ind +'em." + +"It's s'prisin', the food wot some people leaves," the woman broke in. + +"The thing," said the man judicially, as the trick dawned upon me, "is to +get 'old o' the penny." + +As we started to leave, Miss Haythorne gathered up a couple of crusts +from the neighbouring tables and thrust them somewhere into her rags. + +"Cawn't wyste 'em, you know," said she; to which the docker nodded, +tucking away a couple of crusts himself. + +At three in the morning I strolled up the Embankment. It was a gala +night for the homeless, for the police were elsewhere; and each bench was +jammed with sleeping occupants. There were as many women as men, and the +great majority of them, male and female, were old. Occasionally a boy +was to be seen. On one bench I noticed a family, a man sitting upright +with a sleeping babe in his arms, his wife asleep, her head on his +shoulder, and in her lap the head of a sleeping youngster. The man's +eyes were wide open. He was staring out over the water and thinking, +which is not a good thing for a shelterless man with a family to do. It +would not be a pleasant thing to speculate upon his thoughts; but this I +know, and all London knows, that the cases of out-of-works killing their +wives and babies is not an uncommon happening. + +One cannot walk along the Thames Embankment, in the small hours of +morning, from the Houses of Parliament, past Cleopatra's Needle, to +Waterloo Bridge, without being reminded of the sufferings, seven and +twenty centuries old, recited by the author of "Job":- + + There are that remove the landmarks; they violently take away flocks + and feed them. + + They drive away the ass of the fatherless, they take the widow's ox + for a pledge. + + They turn the needy out of the way; the poor of the earth hide + themselves together. + + Behold, as wild asses in the desert they go forth to their work, + seeking diligently for meat; the wilderness yieldeth them food for + their children. + + They cut their provender in the field, and they glean the vintage of + the wicked. + + They lie all night naked without clothing, and have no covering in the + cold. + + They are wet with the showers of the mountains, and embrace the rock + for want of a shelter. + + There are that pluck the fatherless from the breast, and take a pledge + of the poor. + + So that they go about naked without clothing, and being an hungered + they carry the sheaves.--Job xxiv. 2-10. + +Seven and twenty centuries agone! And it is all as true and apposite to- +day in the innermost centre of this Christian civilisation whereof Edward +VII. is king. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII--DAN CULLEN, DOCKER + + +I stood, yesterday, in a room in one of the "Municipal Dwellings," not +far from Leman Street. If I looked into a dreary future and saw that I +would have to live in such a room until I died, I should immediately go +down, plump into the Thames, and cut the tenancy short. + +It was not a room. Courtesy to the language will no more permit it to be +called a room than it will permit a hovel to be called a mansion. It was +a den, a lair. Seven feet by eight were its dimensions, and the ceiling +was so low as not to give the cubic air space required by a British +soldier in barracks. A crazy couch, with ragged coverlets, occupied +nearly half the room. A rickety table, a chair, and a couple of boxes +left little space in which to turn around. Five dollars would have +purchased everything in sight. The floor was bare, while the walls and +ceiling were literally covered with blood marks and splotches. Each mark +represented a violent death--of an insect, for the place swarmed with +vermin, a plague with which no person could cope single-handed. + +The man who had occupied this hole, one Dan Cullen, docker, was dying in +hospital. Yet he had impressed his personality on his miserable +surroundings sufficiently to give an inkling as to what sort of man he +was. On the walls were cheap pictures of Garibaldi, Engels, Dan Burns, +and other labour leaders, while on the table lay one of Walter Besant's +novels. He knew his Shakespeare, I was told, and had read history, +sociology, and economics. And he was self-educated. + +On the table, amidst a wonderful disarray, lay a sheet of paper on which +was scrawled: _Mr. Cullen, please return the large white jug and +corkscrew I lent you_--articles loaned, during the first stages of his +sickness, by a woman neighbour, and demanded back in anticipation of his +death. A large white jug and a corkscrew are far too valuable to a +creature of the Abyss to permit another creature to die in peace. To the +last, Dan Cullen's soul must be harrowed by the sordidness out of which +it strove vainly to rise. + +It is a brief little story, the story of Dan Cullen, but there is much to +read between the lines. He was born lowly, in a city and land where the +lines of caste are tightly drawn. All his days he toiled hard with his +body; and because he had opened the books, and been caught up by the +fires of the spirit, and could "write a letter like a lawyer," he had +been selected by his fellows to toil hard for them with his brain. He +became a leader of the fruit-porters, represented the dockers on the +London Trades Council, and wrote trenchant articles for the labour +journals. + +He did not cringe to other men, even though they were his economic +masters, and controlled the means whereby he lived, and he spoke his mind +freely, and fought the good fight. In the "Great Dock Strike" he was +guilty of taking a leading part. And that was the end of Dan Cullen. +From that day he was a marked man, and every day, for ten years and more, +he was "paid off" for what he had done. + +A docker is a casual labourer. Work ebbs and flows, and he works or does +not work according to the amount of goods on hand to be moved. Dan +Cullen was discriminated against. While he was not absolutely turned +away (which would have caused trouble, and which would certainly have +been more merciful), he was called in by the foreman to do not more than +two or three days' work per week. This is what is called being +"disciplined," or "drilled." It means being starved. There is no +politer word. Ten years of it broke his heart, and broken-hearted men +cannot live. + +He took to his bed in his terrible den, which grew more terrible with his +helplessness. He was without kith or kin, a lonely old man, embittered +and pessimistic, fighting vermin the while and looking at Garibaldi, +Engels, and Dan Burns gazing down at him from the blood-bespattered +walls. No one came to see him in that crowded municipal barracks (he had +made friends with none of them), and he was left to rot. + +But from the far reaches of the East End came a cobbler and his son, his +sole friends. They cleansed his room, brought fresh linen from home, and +took from off his limbs the sheets, greyish-black with dirt. And they +brought to him one of the Queen's Bounty nurses from Aldgate. + +She washed his face, shook up his conch, and talked with him. It was +interesting to talk with him--until he learned her name. Oh, yes, Blank +was her name, she replied innocently, and Sir George Blank was her +brother. Sir George Blank, eh? thundered old Dan Cullen on his death- +bed; Sir George Blank, solicitor to the docks at Cardiff, who, more than +any other man, had broken up the Dockers' Union of Cardiff, and was +knighted? And she was his sister? Thereupon Dan Cullen sat up on his +crazy couch and pronounced anathema upon her and all her breed; and she +fled, to return no more, strongly impressed with the ungratefulness of +the poor. + +Dan Cullen's feet became swollen with dropsy. He sat up all day on the +side of the bed (to keep the water out of his body), no mat on the floor, +a thin blanket on his legs, and an old coat around his shoulders. A +missionary brought him a pair of paper slippers, worth fourpence (I saw +them), and proceeded to offer up fifty prayers or so for the good of Dan +Cullen's soul. But Dan Cullen was the sort of man that wanted his soul +left alone. He did not care to have Tom, Dick, or Harry, on the strength +of fourpenny slippers, tampering with it. He asked the missionary kindly +to open the window, so that he might toss the slippers out. And the +missionary went away, to return no more, likewise impressed with the +ungratefulness of the poor. + +The cobbler, a brave old hero himself, though unaneled and unsung, went +privily to the head office of the big fruit brokers for whom Dan Cullen +had worked as a casual labourer for thirty years. Their system was such +that the work was almost entirely done by casual hands. The cobbler told +them the man's desperate plight, old, broken, dying, without help or +money, reminded them that he had worked for them thirty years, and asked +them to do something for him. + +"Oh," said the manager, remembering Dan Cullen without having to refer to +the books, "you see, we make it a rule never to help casuals, and we can +do nothing." + +Nor did they do anything, not even sign a letter asking for Dan Cullen's +admission to a hospital. And it is not so easy to get into a hospital in +London Town. At Hampstead, if he passed the doctors, at least four +months would elapse before he could get in, there were so many on the +books ahead of him. The cobbler finally got him into the Whitechapel +Infirmary, where he visited him frequently. Here he found that Dan +Cullen had succumbed to the prevalent feeling, that, being hopeless, they +were hurrying him out of the way. A fair and logical conclusion, one +must agree, for an old and broken man to arrive at, who has been +resolutely "disciplined" and "drilled" for ten years. When they sweated +him for Bright's disease to remove the fat from the kidneys, Dan Cullen +contended that the sweating was hastening his death; while Bright's +disease, being a wasting away of the kidneys, there was therefore no fat +to remove, and the doctor's excuse was a palpable lie. Whereupon the +doctor became wroth, and did not come near him for nine days. + +Then his bed was tilted up so that his feet and legs were elevated. At +once dropsy appeared in the body, and Dan Cullen contended that the thing +was done in order to run the water down into his body from his legs and +kill him more quickly. He demanded his discharge, though they told him +he would die on the stairs, and dragged himself, more dead than alive, to +the cobbler's shop. At the moment of writing this, he is dying at the +Temperance Hospital, into which place his staunch friend, the cobbler, +moved heaven and earth to have him admitted. + +Poor Dan Cullen! A Jude the Obscure, who reached out after knowledge; +who toiled with his body in the day and studied in the watches of the +night; who dreamed his dream and struck valiantly for the Cause; a +patriot, a lover of human freedom, and a fighter unafraid; and in the +end, not gigantic enough to beat down the conditions which baffled and +stifled him, a cynic and a pessimist, gasping his final agony on a +pauper's couch in a charity ward,--"For a man to die who might have been +wise and was not, this I call a tragedy." + + + + +CHAPTER XIV--HOPS AND HOPPERS + + +So far has the divorcement of the worker from the soil proceeded, that +the farming districts, the civilised world over, are dependent upon the +cities for the gathering of the harvests. Then it is, when the land is +spilling its ripe wealth to waste, that the street folk, who have been +driven away from the soil, are called back to it again. But in England +they return, not as prodigals, but as outcasts still, as vagrants and +pariahs, to be doubted and flouted by their country brethren, to sleep in +jails and casual wards, or under the hedges, and to live the Lord knows +how. + +It is estimated that Kent alone requires eighty thousand of the street +people to pick her hops. And out they come, obedient to the call, which +is the call of their bellies and of the lingering dregs of adventure-lust +still in them. Slum, stews, and ghetto pour them forth, and the +festering contents of slum, stews, and ghetto are undiminished. Yet they +overrun the country like an army of ghouls, and the country does not want +them. They are out of place. As they drag their squat, misshapen bodies +along the highways and byways, they resemble some vile spawn from +underground. Their very presence, the fact of their existence, is an +outrage to the fresh, bright sun and the green and growing things. The +clean, upstanding trees cry shame upon them and their withered +crookedness, and their rottenness is a slimy desecration of the sweetness +and purity of nature. + +Is the picture overdrawn? It all depends. For one who sees and thinks +life in terms of shares and coupons, it is certainly overdrawn. But for +one who sees and thinks life in terms of manhood and womanhood, it cannot +be overdrawn. Such hordes of beastly wretchedness and inarticulate +misery are no compensation for a millionaire brewer who lives in a West +End palace, sates himself with the sensuous delights of London's golden +theatres, hobnobs with lordlings and princelings, and is knighted by the +king. Wins his spurs--God forbid! In old time the great blonde beasts +rode in the battle's van and won their spurs by cleaving men from pate to +chine. And, after all, it is finer to kill a strong man with a clean- +slicing blow of singing steel than to make a beast of him, and of his +seed through the generations, by the artful and spidery manipulation of +industry and politics. + +But to return to the hops. Here the divorcement from the soil is as +apparent as in every other agricultural line in England. While the +manufacture of beer steadily increases, the growth of hops steadily +decreases. In 1835 the acreage under hops was 71,327. To-day it stands +at 48,024, a decrease of 3103 from the acreage of last year. + +Small as the acreage is this year, a poor summer and terrible storms +reduced the yield. This misfortune is divided between the people who own +hops and the people who pick hops. The owners perforce must put up with +less of the nicer things of life, the pickers with less grub, of which, +in the best of times, they never get enough. For weary weeks headlines +like the following have appeared in the London papers.- + + TRAMPS PLENTIFUL, BUT THE HOPS ARE FEW AND NOT YET READY. + +Then there have been numberless paragraphs like this:- + + From the neighbourhood of the hop fields comes news of a distressing + nature. The bright outburst of the last two days has sent many + hundreds of hoppers into Kent, who will have to wait till the fields + are ready for them. At Dover the number of vagrants in the workhouse + is treble the number there last year at this time, and in other towns + the lateness of the season is responsible for a large increase in the + number of casuals. + +To cap their wretchedness, when at last the picking had begun, hops and +hoppers were well-nigh swept away by a frightful storm of wind, rain, and +hail. The hops were stripped clean from the poles and pounded into the +earth, while the hoppers, seeking shelter from the stinging hail, were +close to drowning in their huts and camps on the low-lying ground. Their +condition after the storm was pitiable, their state of vagrancy more +pronounced than ever; for, poor crop that it was, its destruction had +taken away the chance of earning a few pennies, and nothing remained for +thousands of them but to "pad the hoof" back to London. + +"We ayn't crossin'-sweepers," they said, turning away from the ground, +carpeted ankle-deep with hops. + +Those that remained grumbled savagely among the half-stripped poles at +the seven bushels for a shilling--a rate paid in good seasons when the +hops are in prime condition, and a rate likewise paid in bad seasons by +the growers because they cannot afford more. + +I passed through Teston and East and West Farleigh shortly after the +storm, and listened to the grumbling of the hoppers and saw the hops +rotting on the ground. At the hothouses of Barham Court, thirty thousand +panes of glass had been broken by the hail, while peaches, plums, pears, +apples, rhubarb, cabbages, mangolds, everything, had been pounded to +pieces and torn to shreds. + +All of which was too bad for the owners, certainly; but at the worst, not +one of them, for one meal, would have to go short of food or drink. Yet +it was to them that the newspapers devoted columns of sympathy, their +pecuniary losses being detailed at harrowing length. "Mr. Herbert L--- +calculates his loss at 8000 pounds;" "Mr. F---, of brewery fame, who +rents all the land in this parish, loses 10,000 pounds;" and "Mr. L---, +the Wateringbury brewer, brother to Mr. Herbert L---, is another heavy +loser." As for the hoppers, they did not count. Yet I venture to assert +that the several almost-square meals lost by underfed William Buggles, +and underfed Mrs. Buggles, and the underfed Buggles kiddies, was a +greater tragedy than the 10,000 pounds lost by Mr. F---. And in +addition, underfed William Buggles' tragedy might be multiplied by +thousands where Mr. F---'s could not be multiplied by five. + +To see how William Buggles and his kind fared, I donned my seafaring togs +and started out to get a job. With me was a young East London cobbler, +Bert, who had yielded to the lure of adventure and joined me for the +trip. Acting on my advice, he had brought his "worst rags," and as we +hiked up the London road out of Maidstone he was worrying greatly for +fear we had come too ill-dressed for the business. + +Nor was he to be blamed. When we stopped in a tavern the publican eyed +us gingerly, nor did his demeanour brighten till we showed him the colour +of our cash. The natives along the coast were all dubious; and "bean- +feasters" from London, dashing past in coaches, cheered and jeered and +shouted insulting things after us. But before we were done with the +Maidstone district my friend found that we were as well clad, if not +better, than the average hopper. Some of the bunches of rags we chanced +upon were marvellous. + +"The tide is out," called a gypsy-looking woman to her mates, as we came +up a long row of bins into which the pickers were stripping the hops. + +"Do you twig?" Bert whispered. "She's on to you." + +I twigged. And it must be confessed the figure was an apt one. When the +tide is out boats are left on the beach and do not sail, and a sailor, +when the tide is out, does not sail either. My seafaring togs and my +presence in the hop field proclaimed that I was a seaman without a ship, +a man on the beach, and very like a craft at low water. + +"Can yer give us a job, governor?" Bert asked the bailiff, a kindly faced +and elderly man who was very busy. + +His "No" was decisively uttered; but Bert clung on and followed him +about, and I followed after, pretty well all over the field. Whether our +persistency struck the bailiff as anxiety to work, or whether he was +affected by our hard-luck appearance and tale, neither Bert nor I +succeeded in making out; but in the end he softened his heart and found +us the one unoccupied bin in the place--a bin deserted by two other men, +from what I could learn, because of inability to make living wages. + +"No bad conduct, mind ye," warned the bailiff, as he left us at work in +the midst of the women. + +It was Saturday afternoon, and we knew quitting time would come early; so +we applied ourselves earnestly to the task, desiring to learn if we could +at least make our salt. It was simple work, woman's work, in fact, and +not man's. We sat on the edge of the bin, between the standing hops, +while a pole-puller supplied us with great fragrant branches. In an +hour's time we became as expert as it is possible to become. As soon as +the fingers became accustomed automatically to differentiate between hops +and leaves and to strip half-a-dozen blossoms at a time there was no more +to learn. + +We worked nimbly, and as fast as the women themselves, though their bins +filled more rapidly because of their swarming children, each of which +picked with two hands almost as fast as we picked. + +"Don'tcher pick too clean, it's against the rules," one of the women +informed us; and we took the tip and were grateful. + +As the afternoon wore along, we realised that living wages could not be +made--by men. Women could pick as much as men, and children could do +almost as well as women; so it was impossible for a man to compete with a +woman and half-a-dozen children. For it is the woman and the half-dozen +children who count as a unit, and by their combined capacity determine +the unit's pay. + +"I say, matey, I'm beastly hungry," said I to Bert. We had not had any +dinner. + +"Blimey, but I could eat the 'ops," he replied. + +Whereupon we both lamented our negligence in not rearing up a numerous +progeny to help us in this day of need. And in such fashion we whiled +away the time and talked for the edification of our neighbours. We quite +won the sympathy of the pole-puller, a young country yokel, who now and +again emptied a few picked blossoms into our bin, it being part of his +business to gather up the stray clusters torn off in the process of +pulling. + +With him we discussed how much we could "sub," and were informed that +while we were being paid a shilling for seven bushels, we could only +"sub," or have advanced to us, a shilling for every twelve bushels. Which +is to say that the pay for five out of every twelve bushels was +withheld--a method of the grower to hold the hopper to his work whether +the crop runs good or bad, and especially if it runs bad. + +After all, it was pleasant sitting there in the bright sunshine, the +golden pollen showering from our hands, the pungent aromatic odour of the +hops biting our nostrils, and the while remembering dimly the sounding +cities whence these people came. Poor street people! Poor gutter folk! +Even they grow earth-hungry, and yearn vaguely for the soil from which +they have been driven, and for the free life in the open, and the wind +and rain and sun all undefiled by city smirches. As the sea calls to the +sailor, so calls the land to them; and, deep down in their aborted and +decaying carcasses, they are stirred strangely by the peasant memories of +their forbears who lived before cities were. And in incomprehensible +ways they are made glad by the earth smells and sights and sounds which +their blood has not forgotten though unremembered by them. + +"No more 'ops, matey," Bert complained. + +It was five o'clock, and the pole-pullers had knocked off, so that +everything could be cleaned up, there being no work on Sunday. For an +hour we were forced idly to wait the coming of the measurers, our feet +tingling with the frost which came on the heels of the setting sun. In +the adjoining bin, two women and half-a-dozen children had picked nine +bushels: so that the five bushels the measurers found in our bin +demonstrated that we had done equally well, for the half-dozen children +had ranged from nine to fourteen years of age. + +Five bushels! We worked it out to eight-pence ha'penny, or seventeen +cents, for two men working three hours and a half. Fourpence farthing +apiece! a little over a penny an hour! But we were allowed only to "sub" +fivepence of the total sum, though the tally-keeper, short of change, +gave us sixpence. Entreaty was in vain. A hard-luck story could not +move him. He proclaimed loudly that we had received a penny more than +our due, and went his way. + +Granting, for the sake of the argument, that we were what we represented +ourselves to be--namely, poor men and broke--then here was out position: +night was coming on; we had had no supper, much less dinner; and we +possessed sixpence between us. I was hungry enough to eat three +sixpenn'orths of food, and so was Bert. One thing was patent. By doing +16.3 per cent. justice to our stomachs, we would expend the sixpence, and +our stomachs would still be gnawing under 83.3 per cent. injustice. Being +broke again, we could sleep under a hedge, which was not so bad, though +the cold would sap an undue portion of what we had eaten. But the morrow +was Sunday, on which we could do no work, though our silly stomachs would +not knock off on that account. Here, then, was the problem: how to get +three meals on Sunday, and two on Monday (for we could not make another +"sub" till Monday evening). + +We knew that the casual wards were overcrowded; also, that if we begged +from farmer or villager, there was a large likelihood of our going to +jail for fourteen days. What was to be done? We looked at each other in +despair-- + +--Not a bit of it. We joyfully thanked God that we were not as other +men, especially hoppers, and went down the road to Maidstone, jingling in +our pockets the half-crowns and florins we had brought from London. + + + + +CHAPTER XV--THE SEA WIFE + + +You might not expect to find the Sea Wife in the heart of Kent, but that +is where I found her, in a mean street, in the poor quarter of Maidstone. +In her window she had no sign of lodgings to let, and persuasion was +necessary before she could bring herself to let me sleep in her front +room. In the evening I descended to the semi-subterranean kitchen, and +talked with her and her old man, Thomas Mugridge by name. + +And as I talked to them, all the subtleties and complexities of this +tremendous machine civilisation vanished away. It seemed that I went +down through the skin and the flesh to the naked soul of it, and in +Thomas Mugridge and his old woman gripped hold of the essence of this +remarkable English breed. I found there the spirit of the wanderlust +which has lured Albion's sons across the zones; and I found there the +colossal unreckoning which has tricked the English into foolish +squabblings and preposterous fights, and the doggedness and stubbornness +which have brought them blindly through to empire and greatness; and +likewise I found that vast, incomprehensible patience which has enabled +the home population to endure under the burden of it all, to toil without +complaint through the weary years, and docilely to yield the best of its +sons to fight and colonise to the ends of the earth. + +Thomas Mugridge was seventy-one years old and a little man. It was +because he was little that he had not gone for a soldier. He had +remained at home and worked. His first recollections were connected with +work. He knew nothing else but work. He had worked all his days, and at +seventy-one he still worked. Each morning saw him up with the lark and +afield, a day labourer, for as such he had been born. Mrs. Mugridge was +seventy-three. From seven years of age she had worked in the fields, +doing a boy's work at first, and later a man's. She still worked, +keeping the house shining, washing, boiling, and baking, and, with my +advent, cooking for me and shaming me by making my bed. At the end of +threescore years and more of work they possessed nothing, had nothing to +look forward to save more work. And they were contented. They expected +nothing else, desired nothing else. + +They lived simply. Their wants were few--a pint of beer at the end of +the day, sipped in the semi-subterranean kitchen, a weekly paper to pore +over for seven nights hand-running, and conversation as meditative and +vacant as the chewing of a heifer's cud. From a wood engraving on the +wall a slender, angelic girl looked down upon them, and underneath was +the legend: "Our Future Queen." And from a highly coloured lithograph +alongside looked down a stout and elderly lady, with underneath: "Our +Queen--Diamond Jubilee." + +"What you earn is sweetest," quoth Mrs. Mugridge, when I suggested that +it was about time they took a rest. + +"No, an' we don't want help," said Thomas Mugridge, in reply to my +question as to whether the children lent them a hand. + +"We'll work till we dry up and blow away, mother an' me," he added; and +Mrs. Mugridge nodded her head in vigorous indorsement. + +Fifteen children she had borne, and all were away and gone, or dead. The +"baby," however, lived in Maidstone, and she was twenty-seven. When the +children married they had their hands full with their own families and +troubles, like their fathers and mothers before them. + +Where were the children? Ah, where were they not? Lizzie was in +Australia; Mary was in Buenos Ayres; Poll was in New York; Joe had died +in India--and so they called them up, the living and the dead, soldier +and sailor, and colonist's wife, for the traveller's sake who sat in +their kitchen. + +They passed me a photograph. A trim young fellow, in soldier's garb +looked out at me. + +"And which son is this?" I asked. + +They laughed a hearty chorus. Son! Nay, grandson, just back from Indian +service and a soldier-trumpeter to the King. His brother was in the same +regiment with him. And so it ran, sons and daughters, and grand sons and +daughters, world-wanderers and empire-builders, all of them, while the +old folks stayed at home and worked at building empire too. + + "There dwells a wife by the Northern Gate, + And a wealthy wife is she; + She breeds a breed o' rovin' men + And casts them over sea. + + "And some are drowned in deep water, + And some in sight of shore; + And word goes back to the weary wife, + And ever she sends more." + +But the Sea Wife's child-bearing is about done. The stock is running +out, and the planet is filling up. The wives of her sons may carry on +the breed, but her work is past. The erstwhile men of England are now +the men of Australia, of Africa, of America. England has sent forth "the +best she breeds" for so long, and has destroyed those that remained so +fiercely, that little remains for her to do but to sit down through the +long nights and gaze at royalty on the wall. + +The true British merchant seaman has passed away. The merchant service +is no longer a recruiting ground for such sea dogs as fought with Nelson +at Trafalgar and the Nile. Foreigners largely man the merchant ships, +though Englishmen still continue to officer them and to prefer foreigners +for'ard. In South Africa the colonial teaches the islander how to shoot, +and the officers muddle and blunder; while at home the street people play +hysterically at mafficking, and the War Office lowers the stature for +enlistment. + +It could not be otherwise. The most complacent Britisher cannot hope to +draw off the life-blood, and underfeed, and keep it up forever. The +average Mrs. Thomas Mugridge has been driven into the city, and she is +not breeding very much of anything save an anaemic and sickly progeny +which cannot find enough to eat. The strength of the English-speaking +race to-day is not in the tight little island, but in the New World +overseas, where are the sons and daughters of Mrs. Thomas Mugridge. The +Sea Wife by the Northern Gate has just about done her work in the world, +though she does not realize it. She must sit down and rest her tired +loins for a space; and if the casual ward and the workhouse do not await +her, it is because of the sons and daughters she has reared up against +the day of her feebleness and decay. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI--PROPERTY VERSUS PERSON + + +In a civilisation frankly materialistic and based upon property, not +soul, it is inevitable that property shall be exalted over soul, that +crimes against property shall be considered far more serious than crimes +against the person. To pound one's wife to a jelly and break a few of +her ribs is a trivial offence compared with sleeping out under the naked +stars because one has not the price of a doss. The lad who steals a few +pears from a wealthy railway corporation is a greater menace to society +than the young brute who commits an unprovoked assault upon an old man +over seventy years of age. While the young girl who takes a lodging +under the pretence that she has work commits so dangerous an offence, +that, were she not severely punished, she and her kind might bring the +whole fabric of property clattering to the ground. Had she unholily +tramped Piccadilly and the Strand after midnight, the police would not +have interfered with her, and she would have been able to pay for her +lodging. + +The following illustrative cases are culled from the police-court reports +for a single week:- + + Widnes Police Court. Before Aldermen Gossage and Neil. Thomas Lynch, + charged with being drunk and disorderly and with assaulting a + constable. Defendant rescued a woman from custody, kicked the + constable, and threw stones at him. Fined 3s. 6d. for the first + offence, and 10s. and costs for the assault. + + Glasgow Queen's Park Police Court. Before Baillie Norman Thompson. + John Kane pleaded guilty to assaulting his wife. There were five + previous convictions. Fined 2 pounds, 2s. + + Taunton County Petty Sessions. John Painter, a big, burly fellow, + described as a labourer, charged with assaulting his wife. The woman + received two severe black eyes, and her face was badly swollen. Fined + 1 pound, 8s., including costs, and bound over to keep the peace. + + Widnes Police Court. Richard Bestwick and George Hunt, charged with + trespassing in search of game. Hunt fined 1 pound and costs, Bestwick + 2 pounds and costs; in default, one month. + + Shaftesbury Police Court. Before the Mayor (Mr. A. T. Carpenter). + Thomas Baker, charged with sleeping out. Fourteen days. + + Glasgow Central Police Court. Before Bailie Dunlop. Edward Morrison, + a lad, convicted of stealing fifteen pears from a lorry at the + railroad station. Seven days. + + Doncaster Borough Police Court. Before Alderman Clark and other + magistrates. James M'Gowan, charged under the Poaching Prevention Act + with being found in possession of poaching implements and a number of + rabbits. Fined 2 pounds and costs, or one month. + + Dunfermline Sheriff Court. Before Sheriff Gillespie. John Young, a + pit-head worker, pleaded guilty to assaulting Alexander Storrar by + beating him about the head and body with his fists, throwing him on + the ground, and also striking him with a pit prop. Fined 1 pound. + + Kirkcaldy Police Court. Before Bailie Dishart. Simon Walker pleaded + guilty to assaulting a man by striking and knocking him down. It was + an unprovoked assault, and the magistrate described the accused as a + perfect danger to the community. Fined 30s. + + Mansfield Police Court. Before the Mayor, Messrs. F. J. Turner, J. + Whitaker, F. Tidsbury, E. Holmes, and Dr. R. Nesbitt. Joseph Jackson, + charged with assaulting Charles Nunn. Without any provocation, + defendant struck the complainant a violent blow in the face, knocking + him down, and then kicked him on the side of the head. He was + rendered unconscious, and he remained under medical treatment for a + fortnight. Fined 21s. + + Perth Sheriff Court. Before Sheriff Sym. David Mitchell, charged + with poaching. There were two previous convictions, the last being + three years ago. The sheriff was asked to deal leniently with + Mitchell, who was sixty-two years of age, and who offered no + resistance to the gamekeeper. Four months. + + Dundee Sheriff Court. Before Hon. Sheriff-Substitute R. C. Walker. + John Murray, Donald Craig, and James Parkes, charged with poaching. + Craig and Parkes fined 1 pound each or fourteen days; Murray, 5 pounds + or one month. + + Reading Borough Police Court. Before Messrs. W. B. Monck, F. B. + Parfitt, H. M. Wallis, and G. Gillagan. Alfred Masters, aged sixteen, + charged with sleeping out on a waste piece of ground and having no + visible means of subsistence. Seven days. + + Salisbury City Petty Sessions. Before the Mayor, Messrs. C. Hoskins, + G. Fullford, E. Alexander, and W. Marlow. James Moore, charged with + stealing a pair of boots from outside a shop. Twenty-one days. + + Horncastle Police Court. Before the Rev. W. F. Massingberd, the Rev. + J. Graham, and Mr. N. Lucas Calcraft. George Brackenbury, a young + labourer, convicted of what the magistrates characterised as an + altogether unprovoked and brutal assault upon James Sargeant Foster, a + man over seventy years of age. Fined 1 pound and 5s. 6d. costs. + + Worksop Petty Sessions. Before Messrs. F. J. S. Foljambe, R. Eddison, + and S. Smith. John Priestley, charged with assaulting the Rev. Leslie + Graham. Defendant, who was drunk, was wheeling a perambulator and + pushed it in front of a lorry, with the result that the perambulator + was overturned and the baby in it thrown out. The lorry passed over + the perambulator, but the baby was uninjured. Defendant then attacked + the driver of the lorry, and afterwards assaulted the complainant, who + remonstrated with him upon his conduct. In consequence of the + injuries defendant inflicted, complainant had to consult a doctor. + Fined 40s. and costs. + + Rotherham West Riding Police Court. Before Messrs. C. Wright and G. + Pugh and Colonel Stoddart. Benjamin Storey, Thomas Brammer, and + Samuel Wilcock, charged with poaching. One month each. + + Southampton County Police Court. Before Admiral J. C. Rowley, Mr. H. + H. Culme-Seymour, and other magistrates. Henry Thorrington, charged + with sleeping out. Seven days. + + Eckington Police Court. Before Major L. B. Bowden, Messrs. R. Eyre, + and H. A. Fowler, and Dr. Court. Joseph Watts, charged with stealing + nine ferns from a garden. One month. + + Ripley Petty Sessions. Before Messrs. J. B. Wheeler, W. D. Bembridge, + and M. Hooper. Vincent Allen and George Hall, charged under the + Poaching Prevention Act with being found in possession of a number of + rabbits, and John Sparham, charged with aiding and abetting them. Hall + and Sparham fined 1 pound, 17s. 4d., and Allen 2 pounds, 17s. 4d., + including costs; the former committed for fourteen days and the latter + for one month in default of payment. + + South-western Police Court, London. Before Mr. Rose. John Probyn, + charged with doing grievous bodily harm to a constable. Prisoner had + been kicking his wife, and also assaulting another woman who protested + against his brutality. The constable tried to persuade him to go + inside his house, but prisoner suddenly turned upon him, knocking him + down by a blow on the face, kicking him as he lay on the ground, and + attempting to strangle him. Finally the prisoner deliberately kicked + the officer in a dangerous part, inflicting an injury which will keep + him off duty for a long time to come. Six weeks. + + Lambeth Police Court, London. Before Mr. Hopkins. "Baby" Stuart, + aged nineteen, described as a chorus girl, charged with obtaining food + and lodging to the value of 5s. by false pretences, and with intent to + defraud Emma Brasier. Emma Brasier, complainant, lodging-house keeper + of Atwell Road. Prisoner took apartments at her house on the + representation that she was employed at the Crown Theatre. After + prisoner had been in her house two or three days, Mrs. Brasier made + inquiries, and, finding the girl's story untrue, gave her into + custody. Prisoner told the magistrate that she would have worked had + she not had such bad health. Six weeks' hard labour. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII--INEFFICIENCY + + +I stopped a moment to listen to an argument on the Mile End Waste. It +was night-time, and they were all workmen of the better class. They had +surrounded one of their number, a pleasant-faced man of thirty, and were +giving it to him rather heatedly. + +"But 'ow about this 'ere cheap immigration?" one of them demanded. "The +Jews of Whitechapel, say, a-cutting our throats right along?" + +"You can't blame them," was the answer. "They're just like us, and +they've got to live. Don't blame the man who offers to work cheaper than +you and gets your job." + +"But 'ow about the wife an' kiddies?" his interlocutor demanded. + +"There you are," came the answer. "How about the wife and kiddies of the +man who works cheaper than you and gets your job? Eh? How about his +wife and kiddies? He's more interested in them than in yours, and he +can't see them starve. So he cuts the price of labour and out you go. +But you mustn't blame him, poor devil. He can't help it. Wages always +come down when two men are after the same job. That's the fault of +competition, not of the man who cuts the price." + +"But wyges don't come down where there's a union," the objection was +made. + +"And there you are again, right on the head. The union cheeks +competition among the labourers, but makes it harder where there are no +unions. There's where your cheap labour of Whitechapel comes in. They're +unskilled, and have no unions, and cut each other's throats, and ours in +the bargain, if we don't belong to a strong union." + +Without going further into the argument, this man on the Mile End Waste +pointed the moral that when two men were after the one job wages were +bound to fall. Had he gone deeper into the matter, he would have found +that even the union, say twenty thousand strong, could not hold up wages +if twenty thousand idle men were trying to displace the union men. This +is admirably instanced, just now, by the return and disbandment of the +soldiers from South Africa. They find themselves, by tens of thousands, +in desperate straits in the army of the unemployed. There is a general +decline in wages throughout the land, which, giving rise to labour +disputes and strikes, is taken advantage of by the unemployed, who gladly +pick up the tools thrown down by the strikers. + +Sweating, starvation wages, armies of unemployed, and great numbers of +the homeless and shelterless are inevitable when there are more men to do +work than there is work for men to do. The men and women I have met upon +the streets, and in the spikes and pegs, are not there because as a mode +of life it may be considered a "soft snap." I have sufficiently outlined +the hardships they undergo to demonstrate that their existence is +anything but "soft." + +It is a matter of sober calculation, here in England, that it is softer +to work for twenty shillings a week, and have regular food, and a bed at +night, than it is to walk the streets. The man who walks the streets +suffers more, and works harder, for far less return. I have depicted the +nights they spend, and how, driven in by physical exhaustion, they go to +the casual ward for a "rest up." Nor is the casual ward a soft snap. To +pick four pounds of oakum, break twelve hundredweight of stones, or +perform the most revolting tasks, in return for the miserable food and +shelter they receive, is an unqualified extravagance on the part of the +men who are guilty of it. On the part of the authorities it is sheer +robbery. They give the men far less for their labour than do the +capitalistic employers. The wage for the same amount of labour, +performed for a private employer, would buy them better beds, better +food, more good cheer, and, above all, greater freedom. + +As I say, it is an extravagance for a man to patronise a casual ward. And +that they know it themselves is shown by the way these men shun it till +driven in by physical exhaustion. Then why do they do it? Not because +they are discouraged workers. The very opposite is true; they are +discouraged vagabonds. In the United States the tramp is almost +invariably a discouraged worker. He finds tramping a softer mode of life +than working. But this is not true in England. Here the powers that be +do their utmost to discourage the tramp and vagabond, and he is, in all +truth, a mightily discouraged creature. He knows that two shillings a +day, which is only fifty cents, will buy him three fair meals, a bed at +night, and leave him a couple of pennies for pocket money. He would +rather work for those two shillings than for the charity of the casual +ward; for he knows that he would not have to work so hard, and that he +would not be so abominably treated. He does not do so, however, because +there are more men to do work than there is work for men to do. + +When there are more men than there is work to be done, a sifting-out +process must obtain. In every branch of industry the less efficient are +crowded out. Being crowded out because of inefficiency, they cannot go +up, but must descend, and continue to descend, until they reach their +proper level, a place in the industrial fabric where they are efficient. +It follows, therefore, and it is inexorable, that the least efficient +must descend to the very bottom, which is the shambles wherein they +perish miserably. + +A glance at the confirmed inefficients at the bottom demonstrates that +they are, as a rule, mental, physical, and moral wrecks. The exceptions +to the rule are the late arrivals, who are merely very inefficient, and +upon whom the wrecking process is just beginning to operate. All the +forces here, it must be remembered, are destructive. The good body +(which is there because its brain is not quick and capable) is speedily +wrenched and twisted out of shape; the clean mind (which is there because +of its weak body) is speedily fouled and contaminated. + +The mortality is excessive, but, even then, they die far too lingering +deaths. + +Here, then, we have the construction of the Abyss and the shambles. +Throughout the whole industrial fabric a constant elimination is going +on. The inefficient are weeded out and flung downward. Various things +constitute inefficiency. The engineer who is irregular or irresponsible +will sink down until he finds his place, say as a casual labourer, an +occupation irregular in its very nature and in which there is little or +no responsibility. Those who are slow and clumsy, who suffer from +weakness of body or mind, or who lack nervous, mental, and physical +stamina, must sink down, sometimes rapidly, sometimes step by step, to +the bottom. Accident, by disabling an efficient worker, will make him +inefficient, and down he must go. And the worker who becomes aged, with +failing energy and numbing brain, must begin the frightful descent which +knows no stopping-place short of the bottom and death. + +In this last instance, the statistics of London tell a terrible tale. The +population of London is one-seventh of the total population of the United +Kingdom, and in London, year in and year out, one adult in every four +dies on public charity, either in the workhouse, the hospital, or the +asylum. When the fact that the well-to-do do not end thus is taken into +consideration, it becomes manifest that it is the fate of at least one in +every three adult workers to die on public charity. + +As an illustration of how a good worker may suddenly become inefficient, +and what then happens to him, I am tempted to give the case of M'Garry, a +man thirty-two years of age, and an inmate of the workhouse. The +extracts are quoted from the annual report of the trade union. + + I worked at Sullivan's place in Widnes, better known as the British + Alkali Chemical Works. I was working in a shed, and I had to cross + the yard. It was ten o'clock at night, and there was no light about. + While crossing the yard I felt something take hold of my leg and screw + it off. I became unconscious; I didn't know what became of me for a + day or two. On the following Sunday night I came to my senses, and + found myself in the hospital. I asked the nurse what was to do with + my legs, and she told me both legs were off. + + There was a stationary crank in the yard, let into the ground; the + hole was 18 inches long, 15 inches deep, and 15 inches wide. The + crank revolved in the hole three revolutions a minute. There was no + fence or covering over the hole. Since my accident they have stopped + it altogether, and have covered the hole up with a piece of sheet + iron. . . . They gave me 25 pounds. They didn't reckon that as + compensation; they said it was only for charity's sake. Out of that I + paid 9 pounds for a machine by which to wheel myself about. + + I was labouring at the time I got my legs off. I got twenty-four + shillings a week, rather better pay than the other men, because I used + to take shifts. When there was heavy work to be done I used to be + picked out to do it. Mr. Manton, the manager, visited me at the + hospital several times. When I was getting better, I asked him if he + would be able to find me a job. He told me not to trouble myself, as + the firm was not cold-hearted. I would be right enough in any case . + . . Mr. Manton stopped coming to see me; and the last time, he said he + thought of asking the directors to give me a fifty-pound note, so I + could go home to my friends in Ireland. + +Poor M'Garry! He received rather better pay than the other men because +he was ambitious and took shifts, and when heavy work was to be done he +was the man picked out to do it. And then the thing happened, and he +went into the workhouse. The alternative to the workhouse is to go home +to Ireland and burden his friends for the rest of his life. Comment is +superfluous. + +It must be understood that efficiency is not determined by the workers +themselves, but is determined by the demand for labour. If three men +seek one position, the most efficient man will get it. The other two, no +matter how capable they may be, will none the less be inefficients. If +Germany, Japan, and the United States should capture the entire world +market for iron, coal, and textiles, at once the English workers would be +thrown idle by hundreds of thousands. Some would emigrate, but the rest +would rush their labour into the remaining industries. A general shaking +up of the workers from top to bottom would result; and when equilibrium +had been restored, the number of the inefficients at the bottom of the +Abyss would have been increased by hundreds of thousands. On the other +hand, conditions remaining constant and all the workers doubling their +efficiency, there would still be as many inefficients, though each +inefficient were twice as capable as he had been and more capable than +many of the efficients had previously been. + +When there are more men to work than there is work for men to do, just as +many men as are in excess of work will be inefficients, and as +inefficients they are doomed to lingering and painful destruction. It +shall be the aim of future chapters to show, by their work and manner of +living, not only how the inefficients are weeded out and destroyed, but +to show how inefficients are being constantly and wantonly created by the +forces of industrial society as it exists to-day. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII--WAGES + + +When I learned that in Lesser London there were 1,292,737 people who +received twenty-one shillings or less a week per family, I became +interested as to how the wages could best be spent in order to maintain +the physical efficiency of such families. Families of six, seven, eight +or ten being beyond consideration, I have based the following table upon +a family of five--a father, mother, and three children; while I have made +twenty-one shillings equivalent to $5.25, though actually, twenty-one +shillings are equivalent to about $5.11. + +Rent $1.50 or 6/0 +Bread 1.00 " 4/0 +Meat O.87.5 " 3/6 +Vegetables O.62.5 " 2/6 +Coals 0.25 " 1/0 +Tea 0.18 " 0/9 +Oil 0.16 " 0/8 +Sugar 0.18 " 0/9 +Milk 0.12 " 0/6 +Soap 0.08 " 0/4 +Butter 0.20 " 0/10 +Firewood 0.08 " 0/4 +Total $5.25 21/2 + +An analysis of one item alone will show how little room there is for +waste. _Bread_, $1: for a family of five, for seven days, one dollar's +worth of bread will give each a daily ration of 2.8 cents; and if they +eat three meals a day, each may consume per meal 9.5 mills' worth of +bread, a little less than one halfpennyworth. Now bread is the heaviest +item. They will get less of meat per mouth each meal, and still less of +vegetates; while the smaller items become too microscopic for +consideration. On the other hand, these food articles are all bought at +small retail, the most expensive and wasteful method of purchasing. + +While the table given above will permit no extravagance, no overloading +of stomachs, it will be noticed that there is no surplus. The whole +guinea is spent for food and rent. There is no pocket-money left over. +Does the man buy a glass of beer, the family must eat that much less; and +in so far as it eats less, just that far will it impair its physical +efficiency. The members of this family cannot ride in busses or trams, +cannot write letters, take outings, go to a "tu'penny gaff" for cheap +vaudeville, join social or benefit clubs, nor can they buy sweetmeats, +tobacco, books, or newspapers. + +And further, should one child (and there are three) require a pair of +shoes, the family must strike meat for a week from its bill of fare. And +since there are five pairs of feet requiring shoes, and five heads +requiring hats, and five bodies requiring clothes, and since there are +laws regulating indecency, the family must constantly impair its physical +efficiency in order to keep warm and out of jail. For notice, when rent, +coals, oil, soap, and firewood are extracted from the weekly income, +there remains a daily allowance for food of 4.5d. to each person; and +that 4.5d. cannot be lessened by buying clothes without impairing the +physical efficiency. + +All of which is hard enough. But the thing happens; the husband and +father breaks his leg or his neck. No 4.5d. a day per mouth for food is +coming in; no halfpennyworth of bread per meal; and, at the end of the +week, no six shillings for rent. So out they must go, to the streets or +the workhouse, or to a miserable den, somewhere, in which the mother will +desperately endeavour to hold the family together on the ten shillings +she may possibly be able to earn. + +While in London there are 1,292,737 people who receive twenty-one +shillings or less a week per family, it must be remembered that we have +investigated a family of five living on a twenty-one shilling basis. +There are larger families, there are many families that live on less than +twenty-one shillings, and there is much irregular employment. The +question naturally arises, How do _they_ live? The answer is that they +do not live. They do not know what life is. They drag out a +subterbestial existence until mercifully released by death. + +Before descending to the fouler depths, let the case of the telephone +girls be cited. Here are clean, fresh English maids, for whom a higher +standard of living than that of the beasts is absolutely necessary. +Otherwise they cannot remain clean, fresh English maids. On entering the +service, a telephone girl receives a weekly wage of eleven shillings. If +she be quick and clever, she may, at the end of five years, attain a +minimum wage of one pound. Recently a table of such a girl's weekly +expenditure was furnished to Lord Londonderry. Here it is:- + + s. d. +Rent, fire, and light 7 6 +Board at home 3 6 +Board at the office 4 6 +Street car fare 1 6 +Laundry 1 0 +Total 18 0 + +This leaves nothing for clothes, recreation, or sickness. And yet many +of the girls are receiving, not eighteen shillings, but eleven shillings, +twelve shillings, and fourteen shillings per week. They must have +clothes and recreation, and-- + + Man to Man so oft unjust, + Is always so to Woman. + +At the Trades Union Congress now being held in London, the Gasworkers' +Union moved that instructions be given the Parliamentary Committee to +introduce a Bill to prohibit the employment of children under fifteen +years of age. Mr. Shackleton, Member of Parliament and a representative +of the Northern Counties Weavers, opposed the resolution on behalf of the +textile workers, who, he said, could not dispense with the earnings of +their children and live on the scale of wages which obtained. The +representatives of 514,000 workers voted against the resolution, while +the representatives of 535,000 workers voted in favour of it. When +514,000 workers oppose a resolution prohibiting child-labour under +fifteen, it is evident that a less-than-living wage is being paid to an +immense number of the adult workers of the country. + +I have spoken with women in Whitechapel who receive right along less than +one shilling for a twelve-hour day in the coat-making sweat shops; and +with women trousers finishers who receive an average princely and weekly +wage of three to four shillings. + +A case recently cropped up of men, in the employ of a wealthy business +house, receiving their board and six shillings per week for six working +days of sixteen hours each. The sandwich men get fourteenpence per day +and find themselves. The average weekly earnings of the hawkers and +costermongers are not more than ten to twelve shillings. The average of +all common labourers, outside the dockers, is less than sixteen shillings +per week, while the dockers average from eight to nine shillings. These +figures are taken from a royal commission report and are authentic. + +Conceive of an old woman, broken and dying, supporting herself and four +children, and paying three shillings per week rent, by making match boxes +at 2.25d. per gross. Twelve dozen boxes for 2.25d., and, in addition, +finding her own paste and thread! She never knew a day off, either for +sickness, rest, or recreation. Each day and every day, Sundays as well, +she toiled fourteen hours. Her day's stint was seven gross, for which +she received 1s. 3.75d. In the week of ninety-eight hours' work, she +made 7066 match boxes, and earned 4s. 10.25d., less per paste and thread. + +Last year, Mr. Thomas Holmes, a police-court missionary of note, after +writing about the condition of the women workers, received the following +letter, dated April 18, 1901:- + + Sir,--Pardon the liberty I am taking, but, having read what you said + about poor women working fourteen hours a day for ten shillings per + week, I beg to state my case. I am a tie-maker, who, after working + all the week, cannot earn more than five shillings, and I have a poor + afflicted husband to keep who hasn't earned a penny for more than ten + years. + +Imagine a woman, capable of writing such a clear, sensible, grammatical +letter, supporting her husband and self on five shillings per week! Mr. +Holmes visited her. He had to squeeze to get into the room. There lay +her sick husband; there she worked all day long; there she cooked, ate, +washed, and slept; and there her husband and she performed all the +functions of living and dying. There was no space for the missionary to +sit down, save on the bed, which was partially covered with ties and +silk. The sick man's lungs were in the last stages of decay. He coughed +and expectorated constantly, the woman ceasing from her work to assist +him in his paroxysms. The silken fluff from the ties was not good for +his sickness; nor was his sickness good for the ties, and the handlers +and wearers of the ties yet to come. + +Another case Mr. Holmes visited was that of a young girl, twelve years of +age, charged in the police court with stealing food. He found her the +deputy mother of a boy of nine, a crippled boy of seven, and a younger +child. Her mother was a widow and a blouse-maker. She paid five +shillings a week rent. Here are the last items in her housekeeping +account: Tea. 0.5d.; sugar, 0.5d.; bread, 0.25d.; margarine, 1d.; oil, +1.5d.; and firewood, 1d. Good housewives of the soft and tender folk, +imagine yourselves marketing and keeping house on such a scale, setting a +table for five, and keeping an eye on your deputy mother of twelve to see +that she did not steal food for her little brothers and sisters, the +while you stitched, stitched, stitched at a nightmare line of blouses, +which stretched away into the gloom and down to the pauper's coffin a- +yawn for you. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX--THE GHETTO + + + Is it well that while we range with Science, glorying in the time, + City children soak and blacken soul and sense in city slime? + There among the gloomy alleys Progress halts on palsied feet; + Crime and hunger cast out maidens by the thousand on the street; + + There the master scrimps his haggard seamstress of her daily bread; + There the single sordid attic holds the living and the dead; + There the smouldering fire of fever creeps across the rotted floor, + And the crowded couch of incest, in the warrens of the poor. + +At one time the nations of Europe confined the undesirable Jews in city +ghettos. But to-day the dominant economic class, by less arbitrary but +none the less rigorous methods, has confined the undesirable yet +necessary workers into ghettos of remarkable meanness and vastness. East +London is such a ghetto, where the rich and the powerful do not dwell, +and the traveller cometh not, and where two million workers swarm, +procreate, and die. + +It must not be supposed that all the workers of London are crowded into +the East End, but the tide is setting strongly in that direction. The +poor quarters of the city proper are constantly being destroyed, and the +main stream of the unhoused is toward the east. In the last twelve +years, one district, "London over the Border," as it is called, which +lies well beyond Aldgate, Whitechapel, and Mile End, has increased +260,000, or over sixty per cent. The churches in this district, by the +way, can seat but one in every thirty-seven of the added population. + +The City of Dreadful Monotony, the East End is often called, especially +by well-fed, optimistic sightseers, who look over the surface of things +and are merely shocked by the intolerable sameness and meanness of it +all. If the East End is worthy of no worse title than The City of +Dreadful Monotony, and if working people are unworthy of variety and +beauty and surprise, it would not be such a bad place in which to live. +But the East End does merit a worse title. It should be called The City +of Degradation. + +While it is not a city of slums, as some people imagine, it may well be +said to be one gigantic slum. From the standpoint of simple decency and +clean manhood and womanhood, any mean street, of all its mean streets, is +a slum. Where sights and sounds abound which neither you nor I would +care to have our children see and hear is a place where no man's children +should live, and see, and hear. Where you and I would not care to have +our wives pass their lives is a place where no other man's wife should +have to pass her life. For here, in the East End, the obscenities and +brute vulgarities of life are rampant. There is no privacy. The bad +corrupts the good, and all fester together. Innocent childhood is sweet +and beautiful: but in East London innocence is a fleeting thing, and you +must catch them before they crawl out of the cradle, or you will find the +very babes as unholily wise as you. + +The application of the Golden Rule determines that East London is an +unfit place in which to live. Where you would not have your own babe +live, and develop, and gather to itself knowledge of life and the things +of life, is not a fit place for the babes of other men to live, and +develop, and gather to themselves knowledge of life and the things of +life. It is a simple thing, this Golden Rule, and all that is required. +Political economy and the survival of the fittest can go hang if they say +otherwise. What is not good enough for you is not good enough for other +men, and there's no more to be said. + +There are 300,000 people in London, divided into families, that live in +one-room tenements. Far, far more live in two and three rooms and are as +badly crowded, regardless of sex, as those that live in one room. The +law demands 400 cubic feet of space for each person. In army barracks +each soldier is allowed 600 cubic feet. Professor Huxley, at one time +himself a medical officer in East London, always held that each person +should have 800 cubic feet of space, and that it should be well +ventilated with pure air. Yet in London there are 900,000 people living +in less than the 400 cubic feet prescribed by the law. + +Mr. Charles Booth, who engaged in a systematic work of years in charting +and classifying the toiling city population, estimates that there are +1,800,000 people in London who are _poor_ and _very poor_. It is of +interest to mark what he terms poor. By _poor_ he means families which +have a total weekly income of from eighteen to twenty-one shillings. The +_very poor_ fall greatly below this standard. + +The workers, as a class, are being more and more segregated by their +economic masters; and this process, with its jamming and overcrowding, +tends not so much toward immorality as unmorality. Here is an extract +from a recent meeting of the London County Council, terse and bald, but +with a wealth of horror to be read between the lines:- + + Mr. Bruce asked the Chairman of the Public Health Committee whether + his attention had been called to a number of cases of serious + overcrowding in the East End. In St. Georges-in-the-East a man and + his wife and their family of eight occupied one small room. This + family consisted of five daughters, aged twenty, seventeen, eight, + four, and an infant; and three sons, aged fifteen, thirteen, and + twelve. In Whitechapel a man and his wife and their three daughters, + aged sixteen, eight, and four, and two sons, aged ten and twelve + years, occupied a smaller room. In Bethnal Green a man and his wife, + with four sons, aged twenty-three, twenty-one, nineteen, and sixteen, + and two daughters, aged fourteen and seven, were also found in one + room. He asked whether it was not the duty of the various local + authorities to prevent such serious overcrowding. + +But with 900,000 people actually living under illegal conditions, the +authorities have their hands full. When the overcrowded folk are ejected +they stray off into some other hole; and, as they move their belongings +by night, on hand-barrows (one hand-barrow accommodating the entire +household goods and the sleeping children), it is next to impossible to +keep track of them. If the Public Health Act of 1891 were suddenly and +completely enforced, 900,000 people would receive notice to clear out of +their houses and go on to the streets, and 500,000 rooms would have to be +built before they were all legally housed again. + +The mean streets merely look mean from the outside, but inside the walls +are to be found squalor, misery, and tragedy. While the following +tragedy may be revolting to read, it must not be forgotten that the +existence of it is far more revolting. + +In Devonshire Place, Lisson Grove, a short while back died an old woman +of seventy-five years of age. At the inquest the coroner's officer +stated that "all he found in the room was a lot of old rags covered with +vermin. He had got himself smothered with the vermin. The room was in a +shocking condition, and he had never seen anything like it. Everything +was absolutely covered with vermin." + +The doctor said: "He found deceased lying across the fender on her back. +She had one garment and her stockings on. The body was quite alive with +vermin, and all the clothes in the room were absolutely grey with +insects. Deceased was very badly nourished and was very emaciated. She +had extensive sores on her legs, and her stockings were adherent to those +sores. The sores were the result of vermin." + +A man present at the inquest wrote: "I had the evil fortune to see the +body of the unfortunate woman as it lay in the mortuary; and even now the +memory of that gruesome sight makes me shudder. There she lay in the +mortuary shell, so starved and emaciated that she was a mere bundle of +skin and bones. Her hair, which was matted with filth, was simply a nest +of vermin. Over her bony chest leaped and rolled hundreds, thousands, +myriads of vermin!" + +If it is not good for your mother and my mother so to die, then it is not +good for this woman, whosoever's mother she might be, so to die. + +Bishop Wilkinson, who has lived in Zululand, recently said, "No human of +an African village would allow such a promiscuous mixing of young men and +women, boys and girls." He had reference to the children of the +overcrowded folk, who at five have nothing to learn and much to unlearn +which they will never unlearn. + +It is notorious that here in the Ghetto the houses of the poor are +greater profit earners than the mansions of the rich. Not only does the +poor worker have to live like a beast, but he pays proportionately more +for it than does the rich man for his spacious comfort. A class of house- +sweaters has been made possible by the competition of the poor for +houses. There are more people than there is room, and numbers are in the +workhouse because they cannot find shelter elsewhere. Not only are +houses let, but they are sublet, and sub-sublet down to the very rooms. + +"A part of a room to let." This notice was posted a short while ago in a +window not five minutes' walk from St. James's Hall. The Rev. Hugh Price +Hughes is authority for the statement that beds are let on the +three-relay system--that is, three tenants to a bed, each occupying it +eight hours, so that it never grows cold; while the floor space +underneath the bed is likewise let on the three-relay system. Health +officers are not at all unused to finding such cases as the following: in +one room having a cubic capacity of 1000 feet, three adult females in the +bed, and two adult females under the bed; and in one room of 1650 cubic +feet, one adult male and two children in the bed, and two adult females +under the bed. + +Here is a typical example of a room on the more respectable two-relay +system. It is occupied in the daytime by a young woman employed all +night in a hotel. At seven o'clock in the evening she vacates the room, +and a bricklayer's labourer comes in. At seven in the morning he +vacates, and goes to his work, at which time she returns from hers. + +The Rev. W. N. Davies, rector of Spitalfields, took a census of some of +the alleys in his parish. He says:- + + In one alley there are ten houses--fifty-one rooms, nearly all about 8 + feet by 9 feet--and 254 people. In six instances only do 2 people + occupy one room; and in others the number varied from 3 to 9. In + another court with six houses and twenty-two rooms were 84 + people--again 6, 7, 8, and 9 being the number living in one room, in + several instances. In one house with eight rooms are 45 people--one + room containing 9 persons, one 8, two 7, and another 6. + +This Ghetto crowding is not through inclination, but compulsion. Nearly +fifty per cent. of the workers pay from one-fourth to one-half of their +earnings for rent. The average rent in the larger part of the East End +is from four to six shillings per week for one room, while skilled +mechanics, earning thirty-five shillings per week, are forced to part +with fifteen shillings of it for two or three pokey little dens, in which +they strive desperately to obtain some semblance of home life. And rents +are going up all the time. In one street in Stepney the increase in only +two years has been from thirteen to eighteen shillings; in another street +from eleven to sixteen shillings; and in another street, from eleven to +fifteen shillings; while in Whitechapel, two-room houses that recently +rented for ten shillings are now costing twenty-one shillings. East, +west, north, and south the rents are going up. When land is worth from +20,000 to 30,000 pounds an acre, some one must pay the landlord. + +Mr. W. C. Steadman, in the House of Commons, in a speech concerning his +constituency in Stepney, related the following:- + + This morning, not a hundred yards from where I am myself living, a + widow stopped me. She has six children to support, and the rent of + her house was fourteen shillings per week. She gets her living by + letting the house to lodgers and doing a day's washing or charring. + That woman, with tears in her eyes, told me that the landlord had + increased the rent from fourteen shillings to eighteen shillings. What + could the woman do? There is no accommodation in Stepney. Every + place is taken up and overcrowded. + +Class supremacy can rest only on class degradation; and when the workers +are segregated in the Ghetto, they cannot escape the consequent +degradation. A short and stunted people is created--a breed strikingly +differentiated from their masters' breed, a pavement folk, as it were +lacking stamina and strength. The men become caricatures of what +physical men ought to be, and their women and children are pale and +anaemic, with eyes ringed darkly, who stoop and slouch, and are early +twisted out of all shapeliness and beauty. + +To make matters worse, the men of the Ghetto are the men who are left--a +deteriorated stock, left to undergo still further deterioration. For a +hundred and fifty years, at least, they have been drained of their best. +The strong men, the men of pluck, initiative, and ambition, have been +faring forth to the fresher and freer portions of the globe, to make new +lands and nations. Those who are lacking, the weak of heart and head and +hand, as well as the rotten and hopeless, have remained to carry on the +breed. And year by year, in turn, the best they breed are taken from +them. Wherever a man of vigour and stature manages to grow up, he is +haled forthwith into the army. A soldier, as Bernard Shaw has said, +"ostensibly a heroic and patriotic defender of his country, is really an +unfortunate man driven by destitution to offer himself as food for powder +for the sake of regular rations, shelter, and clothing." + +This constant selection of the best from the workers has impoverished +those who are left, a sadly degraded remainder, for the great part, +which, in the Ghetto, sinks to the deepest depths. The wine of life has +been drawn off to spill itself in blood and progeny over the rest of the +earth. Those that remain are the lees, and they are segregated and +steeped in themselves. They become indecent and bestial. When they +kill, they kill with their hands, and then stupidly surrender themselves +to the executioners. There is no splendid audacity about their +transgressions. They gouge a mate with a dull knife, or beat his head in +with an iron pot, and then sit down and wait for the police. Wife-beating +is the masculine prerogative of matrimony. They wear remarkable boots of +brass and iron, and when they have polished off the mother of their +children with a black eye or so, they knock her down and proceed to +trample her very much as a Western stallion tramples a rattlesnake. + +A woman of the lower Ghetto classes is as much the slave of her husband +as is the Indian squaw. And I, for one, were I a woman and had but the +two choices, should prefer being a squaw. The men are economically +dependent on their masters, and the women are economically dependent on +the men. The result is, the woman gets the beating the man should give +his master, and she can do nothing. There are the kiddies, and he is the +bread-winner, and she dare not send him to jail and leave herself and +children to starve. Evidence to convict can rarely be obtained when such +cases come into the courts; as a rule, the trampled wife and mother is +weeping and hysterically beseeching the magistrate to let her husband off +for the kiddies' sakes. + +The wives become screaming harridans or, broken-spirited and doglike, +lose what little decency and self-respect they have remaining over from +their maiden days, and all sink together, unheeding, in their degradation +and dirt. + +Sometimes I become afraid of my own generalizations upon the massed +misery of this Ghetto life, and feel that my impressions are exaggerated, +that I am too close to the picture and lack perspective. At such moments +I find it well to turn to the testimony of other men to prove to myself +that I am not becoming over-wrought and addle-pated. Frederick Harrison +has always struck me as being a level-headed, well-controlled man, and he +says:- + + To me, at least, it would be enough to condemn modern society as + hardly an advance on slavery or serfdom, if the permanent condition of + industry were to be that which we behold, that ninety per cent. of the + actual producers of wealth have no home that they can call their own + beyond the end of the week; have no bit of soil, or so much as a room + that belongs to them; have nothing of value of any kind, except as + much old furniture as will go into a cart; have the precarious chance + of weekly wages, which barely suffice to keep them in health; are + housed, for the most part, in places that no man thinks fit for his + horse; are separated by so narrow a margin from destitution that a + month of bad trade, sickness, or unexpected loss brings them face to + face with hunger and pauperism . . . But below this normal state of + the average workman in town and country, there is found the great band + of destitute outcasts--the camp followers of the army of industry--at + least one-tenth the whole proletarian population, whose normal + condition is one of sickening wretchedness. If this is to be the + permanent arrangement of modern society, civilization must be held to + bring a curse on the great majority of mankind. + +Ninety per cent.! The figures are appalling, yet Mr. Stopford Brooke, +after drawing a frightful London picture, finds himself compelled to +multiply it by half a million. Here it is:- + + I often used to meet, when I was curate at Kensington, families + drifting into London along the Hammersmith Road. One day there came + along a labourer and his wife, his son and two daughters. Their + family had lived for a long time on an estate in the country, and + managed, with the help of the common-land and their labour, to get on. + But the time came when the common was encroached upon, and their + labour was not needed on the estate, and they were quietly turned out + of their cottage. Where should they go? Of course to London, where + work was thought to be plentiful. They had a little savings, and they + thought they could get two decent rooms to live in. But the + inexorable land question met them in London. They tried the decent + courts for lodgings, and found that two rooms would cost ten shillings + a week. Food was dear and bad, water was bad, and in a short time + their health suffered. Work was hard to get, and its wage was so low + that they were soon in debt. They became more ill and more despairing + with the poisonous surroundings, the darkness, and the long hours of + work; and they were driven forth to seek a cheaper lodging. They + found it in a court I knew well--a hotbed of crime and nameless + horrors. In this they got a single room at a cruel rent, and work was + more difficult for them to get now, as they came from a place of such + bad repute, and they fell into the hands of those who sweat the last + drop out of man and woman and child, for wages which are the food only + of despair. And the darkness and the dirt, the bad food and the + sickness, and the want of water was worse than before; and the crowd + and the companionship of the court robbed them of the last shreds of + self-respect. The drink demon seized upon them. Of course there was + a public-house at both ends of the court. There they fled, one and + all, for shelter, and warmth, and society, and forgetfulness. And + they came out in deeper debt, with inflamed senses and burning brains, + and an unsatisfied craving for drink they would do anything to + satiate. And in a few months the father was in prison, the wife + dying, the son a criminal, and the daughters on the street. _Multiply + this by half a million, and you will be beneath the truth_. + +No more dreary spectacle can be found on this earth than the whole of the +"awful East," with its Whitechapel, Hoxton, Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, +and Wapping to the East India Docks. The colour of life is grey and +drab. Everything is helpless, hopeless, unrelieved, and dirty. Bath +tubs are a thing totally unknown, as mythical as the ambrosia of the +gods. The people themselves are dirty, while any attempt at cleanliness +becomes howling farce, when it is not pitiful and tragic. Strange, +vagrant odours come drifting along the greasy wind, and the rain, when it +falls, is more like grease than water from heaven. The very cobblestones +are scummed with grease. + +Here lives a population as dull and unimaginative as its long grey miles +of dingy brick. Religion has virtually passed it by, and a gross and +stupid materialism reigns, fatal alike to the things of the spirit and +the finer instincts of life. + +It used to be the proud boast that every Englishman's home was his +castle. But to-day it is an anachronism. The Ghetto folk have no homes. +They do not know the significance and the sacredness of home life. Even +the municipal dwellings, where live the better-class workers, are +overcrowded barracks. They have no home life. The very language proves +it. The father returning from work asks his child in the street where +her mother is; and back the answer comes, "In the buildings." + +A new race has sprung up, a street people. They pass their lives at work +and in the streets. They have dens and lairs into which to crawl for +sleeping purposes, and that is all. One cannot travesty the word by +calling such dens and lairs "homes." The traditional silent and reserved +Englishman has passed away. The pavement folk are noisy, voluble, high- +strung, excitable--when they are yet young. As they grow older they +become steeped and stupefied in beer. When they have nothing else to do, +they ruminate as a cow ruminates. They are to be met with everywhere, +standing on curbs and corners, and staring into vacancy. Watch one of +them. He will stand there, motionless, for hours, and when you go away +you will leave him still staring into vacancy. It is most absorbing. He +has no money for beer, and his lair is only for sleeping purposes, so +what else remains for him to do? He has already solved the mysteries of +girl's love, and wife's love, and child's love, and found them delusions +and shams, vain and fleeting as dew-drops, quick-vanishing before the +ferocious facts of life. + +As I say, the young are high-strung, nervous, excitable; the middle-aged +are empty-headed, stolid, and stupid. It is absurd to think for an +instant that they can compete with the workers of the New World. +Brutalised, degraded, and dull, the Ghetto folk will be unable to render +efficient service to England in the world struggle for industrial +supremacy which economists declare has already begun. Neither as workers +nor as soldiers can they come up to the mark when England, in her need, +calls upon them, her forgotten ones; and if England be flung out of the +world's industrial orbit, they will perish like flies at the end of +summer. Or, with England critically situated, and with them made +desperate as wild beasts are made desperate, they may become a menace and +go "swelling" down to the West End to return the "slumming" the West End +has done in the East. In which case, before rapid-fire guns and the +modern machinery of warfare, they will perish the more swiftly and +easily. + + + + +CHAPTER XX--COFFEE-HOUSES AND DOSS-HOUSES + + +Another phrase gone glimmering, shorn of romance and tradition and all +that goes to make phrases worth keeping! For me, henceforth, "coffee- +house" will possess anything but an agreeable connotation. Over on the +other side of the world, the mere mention of the word was sufficient to +conjure up whole crowds of its historic frequenters, and to send trooping +through my imagination endless groups of wits and dandies, pamphleteers +and bravos, and bohemians of Grub Street. + +But here, on this side of the world, alas and alack, the very name is a +misnomer. Coffee-house: a place where people drink coffee. Not at all. +You cannot obtain coffee in such a place for love or money. True, you +may call for coffee, and you will have brought you something in a cup +purporting to be coffee, and you will taste it and be disillusioned, for +coffee it certainly is not. + +And what is true of the coffee is true of the coffee-house. Working-men, +in the main, frequent these places, and greasy, dirty places they are, +without one thing about them to cherish decency in a man or put +self-respect into him. Table-cloths and napkins are unknown. A man eats +in the midst of the debris left by his predecessor, and dribbles his own +scraps about him and on the floor. In rush times, in such places, I have +positively waded through the muck and mess that covered the floor, and I +have managed to eat because I was abominably hungry and capable of eating +anything. + +This seems to be the normal condition of the working-man, from the zest +with which he addresses himself to the board. Eating is a necessity, and +there are no frills about it. He brings in with him a primitive +voraciousness, and, I am confident, carries away with him a fairly +healthy appetite. When you see such a man, on his way to work in the +morning, order a pint of tea, which is no more tea than it is ambrosia, +pull a hunk of dry bread from his pocket, and wash the one down with the +other, depend upon it, that man has not the right sort of stuff in his +belly, nor enough of the wrong sort of stuff, to fit him for big day's +work. And further, depend upon it, he and a thousand of his kind will +not turn out the quantity or quality of work that a thousand men will who +have eaten heartily of meat and potatoes, and drunk coffee that is +coffee. + +As a vagrant in the "Hobo" of a California jail, I have been served +better food and drink than the London workman receives in his +coffee-houses; while as an American labourer I have eaten a breakfast for +twelvepence such as the British labourer would not dream of eating. Of +course, he will pay only three or four pence for his; which is, however, +as much as I paid, for I would be earning six shillings to his two or two +and a half. On the other hand, though, and in return, I would turn out +an amount of work in the course of the day that would put to shame the +amount he turned out. So there are two sides to it. The man with the +high standard of living will always do more work and better than the man +with the low standard of living. + +There is a comparison which sailormen make between the English and +American merchant services. In an English ship, they say, it is poor +grub, poor pay, and easy work; in an American ship, good grub, good pay, +and hard work. And this is applicable to the working populations of both +countries. The ocean greyhounds have to pay for speed and steam, and so +does the workman. But if the workman is not able to pay for it, he will +not have the speed and steam, that is all. The proof of it is when the +English workman comes to America. He will lay more bricks in New York +than he will in London, still more bricks in St. Louis, and still more +bricks when he gets to San Francisco. {3} His standard of living has +been rising all the time. + +Early in the morning, along the streets frequented by workmen on the way +to work, many women sit on the sidewalk with sacks of bread beside them. +No end of workmen purchase these, and eat them as they walk along. They +do not even wash the dry bread down with the tea to be obtained for a +penny in the coffee-houses. It is incontestable that a man is not fit to +begin his day's work on a meal like that; and it is equally incontestable +that the loss will fall upon his employer and upon the nation. For some +time, now, statesmen have been crying, "Wake up, England!" It would show +more hard-headed common sense if they changed the tune to "Feed up, +England!" + +Not only is the worker poorly fed, but he is filthily fed. I have stood +outside a butcher-shop and watched a horde of speculative housewives +turning over the trimmings and scraps and shreds of beef and mutton--dog- +meat in the States. I would not vouch for the clean fingers of these +housewives, no more than I would vouch for the cleanliness of the single +rooms in which many of them and their families lived; yet they raked, and +pawed, and scraped the mess about in their anxiety to get the worth of +their coppers. I kept my eye on one particularly offensive-looking bit +of meat, and followed it through the clutches of over twenty women, till +it fell to the lot of a timid-appearing little woman whom the butcher +bluffed into taking it. All day long this heap of scraps was added to +and taken away from, the dust and dirt of the street falling upon it, +flies settling on it, and the dirty fingers turning it over and over. + +The costers wheel loads of specked and decaying fruit around in the +barrows all day, and very often store it in their one living and sleeping +room for the night. There it is exposed to the sickness and disease, the +effluvia and vile exhalations of overcrowded and rotten life, and next +day it is carted about again to be sold. + +The poor worker of the East End never knows what it is to eat good, +wholesome meat or fruit--in fact, he rarely eats meat or fruit at all; +while the skilled workman has nothing to boast of in the way of what he +eats. Judging from the coffee-houses, which is a fair criterion, they +never know in all their lives what tea, coffee, or cocoa tastes like. The +slops and water-witcheries of the coffee-houses, varying only in +sloppiness and witchery, never even approximate or suggest what you and I +are accustomed to drink as tea and coffee. + +A little incident comes to me, connected with a coffee-house not far from +Jubilee Street on the Mile End Road. + +"Cawn yer let me 'ave somethin' for this, daughter? Anythin', Hi don't +mind. Hi 'aven't 'ad a bite the blessed dy, an' Hi'm that fynt . . . " + +She was an old woman, clad in decent black rags, and in her hand she held +a penny. The one she had addressed as "daughter" was a careworn woman of +forty, proprietress and waitress of the house. + +I waited, possibly as anxiously as the old woman, to see how the appeal +would be received. It was four in the afternoon, and she looked faint +and sick. The woman hesitated an instant, then brought a large plate of +"stewed lamb and young peas." I was eating a plate of it myself, and it +is my judgment that the lamb was mutton and that the peas might have been +younger without being youthful. However, the point is, the dish was sold +at sixpence, and the proprietress gave it for a penny, demonstrating anew +the old truth that the poor are the most charitable. + +The old woman, profuse in her gratitude, took a seat on the other side of +the narrow table and ravenously attacked the smoking stew. We ate +steadily and silently, the pair of us, when suddenly, explosively and +most gleefully, she cried out to me,-- + +"Hi sold a box o' matches! Yus," she confirmed, if anything with greater +and more explosive glee. "Hi sold a box o' matches! That's 'ow Hi got +the penny." + +"You must be getting along in years," I suggested. + +"Seventy-four yesterday," she replied, and returned with gusto to her +plate. + +"Blimey, I'd like to do something for the old girl, that I would, but +this is the first I've 'ad to-dy," the young fellow alongside volunteered +to me. "An' I only 'ave this because I 'appened to make an odd shilling +washin' out, Lord lumme! I don't know 'ow many pots." + +"No work at my own tryde for six weeks," he said further, in reply to my +questions; "nothin' but odd jobs a blessed long wy between." + +* * * * * + +One meets with all sorts of adventures in coffee-house, and I shall not +soon forget a Cockney Amazon in a place near Trafalgar Square, to whom I +tendered a sovereign when paying my score. (By the way, one is supposed +to pay before he begins to eat, and if he be poorly dressed he is +compelled to pay before he eats). + +The girl bit the gold piece between her teeth, rang it on the counter, +and then looked me and my rags witheringly up and down. + +"Where'd you find it?" she at length demanded. + +"Some mug left it on the table when he went out, eh, don't you think?" I +retorted. + +"Wot's yer gyme?" she queried, looking me calmly in the eyes. + +"I makes 'em," quoth I. + +She sniffed superciliously and gave me the change in small silver, and I +had my revenge by biting and ringing every piece of it. + +"I'll give you a ha'penny for another lump of sugar in the tea," I said. + +"I'll see you in 'ell first," came the retort courteous. Also, she +amplified the retort courteous in divers vivid and unprintable ways. + +I never had much talent for repartee, but she knocked silly what little I +had, and I gulped down my tea a beaten man, while she gloated after me +even as I passed out to the street. + +While 300,000 people of London live in one-room tenements, and 900,000 +are illegally and viciously housed, 38,000 more are registered as living +in common lodging-houses--known in the vernacular as "doss-houses." There +are many kinds of doss-houses, but in one thing they are all alike, from +the filthy little ones to the monster big ones paying five per cent. and +blatantly lauded by smug middle-class men who know but one thing about +them, and that one thing is their uninhabitableness. By this I do not +mean that the roofs leak or the walls are draughty; but what I do mean is +that life in them is degrading and unwholesome. + +"The poor man's hotel," they are often called, but the phrase is +caricature. Not to possess a room to one's self, in which sometimes to +sit alone; to be forced out of bed willy-nilly, the first thing in the +morning; to engage and pay anew for a bed each night; and never to have +any privacy, surely is a mode of existence quite different from that of +hotel life. + +This must not be considered a sweeping condemnation of the big private +and municipal lodging-houses and working-men's homes. Far from it. They +have remedied many of the atrocities attendant upon the irresponsible +small doss-houses, and they give the workman more for his money than he +ever received before; but that does not make them as habitable or +wholesome as the dwelling-place of a man should be who does his work in +the world. + +The little private doss-houses, as a rule, are unmitigated horrors. I +have slept in them, and I know; but let me pass them by and confine +myself to the bigger and better ones. Not far from Middlesex Street, +Whitechapel, I entered such a house, a place inhabited almost entirely by +working men. The entrance was by way of a flight of steps descending +from the sidewalk to what was properly the cellar of the building. Here +were two large and gloomily lighted rooms, in which men cooked and ate. I +had intended to do some cooking myself, but the smell of the place stole +away my appetite, or, rather, wrested it from me; so I contented myself +with watching other men cook and eat. + +One workman, home from work, sat down opposite me at the rough wooden +table, and began his meal. A handful of salt on the not over-clean table +constituted his butter. Into it he dipped his bread, mouthful by +mouthful, and washed it down with tea from a big mug. A piece of fish +completed his bill of fare. He ate silently, looking neither to right +nor left nor across at me. Here and there, at the various tables, other +men were eating, just as silently. In the whole room there was hardly a +note of conversation. A feeling of gloom pervaded the ill-lighted place. +Many of them sat and brooded over the crumbs of their repast, and made me +wonder, as Childe Roland wondered, what evil they had done that they +should be punished so. + +From the kitchen came the sounds of more genial life, and I ventured into +the range where the men were cooking. But the smell I had noticed on +entering was stronger here, and a rising nausea drove me into the street +for fresh air. + +On my return I paid fivepence for a "cabin," took my receipt for the same +in the form of a huge brass check, and went upstairs to the smoking-room. +Here, a couple of small billiard tables and several checkerboards were +being used by young working-men, who waited in relays for their turn at +the games, while many men were sitting around, smoking, reading, and +mending their clothes. The young men were hilarious, the old men were +gloomy. In fact, there were two types of men, the cheerful and the +sodden or blue, and age seemed to determine the classification. + +But no more than the two cellar rooms did this room convey the remotest +suggestion of home. Certainly there could be nothing home-like about it +to you and me, who know what home really is. On the walls were the most +preposterous and insulting notices regulating the conduct of the guests, +and at ten o'clock the lights were put out, and nothing remained but bed. +This was gained by descending again to the cellar, by surrendering the +brass check to a burly doorkeeper, and by climbing a long flight of +stairs into the upper regions. I went to the top of the building and +down again, passing several floors filled with sleeping men. The +"cabins" were the best accommodation, each cabin allowing space for a +tiny bed and room alongside of it in which to undress. The bedding was +clean, and with neither it nor the bed do I find any fault. But there +was no privacy about it, no being alone. + +To get an adequate idea of a floor filled with cabins, you have merely to +magnify a layer of the pasteboard pigeon-holes of an egg-crate till each +pigeon-hole is seven feet in height and otherwise properly dimensioned, +then place the magnified layer on the floor of a large, barnlike room, +and there you have it. There are no ceilings to the pigeon-holes, the +walls are thin, and the snores from all the sleepers and every move and +turn of your nearer neighbours come plainly to your ears. And this cabin +is yours only for a little while. In the morning out you go. You cannot +put your trunk in it, or come and go when you like, or lock the door +behind you, or anything of the sort. In fact, there is no door at all, +only a doorway. If you care to remain a guest in this poor man's hotel, +you must put up with all this, and with prison regulations which impress +upon you constantly that you are nobody, with little soul of your own and +less to say about it. + +Now I contend that the least a man who does his day's work should have is +a room to himself, where he can lock the door and be safe in his +possessions; where he can sit down and read by a window or look out; +where he can come and go whenever he wishes; where he can accumulate a +few personal belongings other than those he carries about with him on his +back and in his pockets; where he can hang up pictures of his mother, +sister, sweet-heart, ballet dancers, or bulldogs, as his heart listeth--in +short, one place of his own on the earth of which he can say: "This is +mine, my castle; the world stops at the threshold; here am I lord and +master." He will be a better citizen, this man; and he will do a better +day's work. + +I stood on one floor of the poor man's hotel and listened. I went from +bed to bed and looked at the sleepers. They were young men, from twenty +to forty, most of them. Old men cannot afford the working-man's home. +They go to the workhouse. But I looked at the young men, scores of them, +and they were not bad-looking fellows. Their faces were made for women's +kisses, their necks for women's arms. They were lovable, as men are +lovable. They were capable of love. A woman's touch redeems and +softens, and they needed such redemption and softening instead of each +day growing harsh and harsher. And I wondered where these women were, +and heard a "harlot's ginny laugh." Leman Street, Waterloo Road, +Piccadilly, The Strand, answered me, and I knew where they were. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI--THE PRECARIOUSNESS OF LIFE + + +I was talking with a very vindictive man. In his opinion, his wife had +wronged him and the law had wronged him. The merits and morals of the +case are immaterial. The meat of the matter is that she had obtained a +separation, and he was compelled to pay ten shillings each week for the +support of her and the five children. "But look you," said he to me, +"wot'll 'appen to 'er if I don't py up the ten shillings? S'posin', now, +just s'posin' a accident 'appens to me, so I cawn't work. S'posin' I get +a rupture, or the rheumatics, or the cholera. Wot's she goin' to do, eh? +Wot's she goin' to do?" + +He shook his head sadly. "No 'ope for 'er. The best she cawn do is the +work'ouse, an' that's 'ell. An' if she don't go to the work'ouse, it'll +be a worse 'ell. Come along 'ith me an' I'll show you women sleepin' in +a passage, a dozen of 'em. An' I'll show you worse, wot she'll come to +if anythin' 'appens to me and the ten shillings." + +The certitude of this man's forecast is worthy of consideration. He knew +conditions sufficiently to know the precariousness of his wife's grasp on +food and shelter. For her game was up when his working capacity was +impaired or destroyed. And when this state of affairs is looked at in +its larger aspect, the same will be found true of hundreds of thousands +and even millions of men and women living amicably together and +co-operating in the pursuit of food and shelter. + +The figures are appalling: 1,800,000 people in London live on the poverty +line and below it, and 1,000,000 live with one week's wages between them +and pauperism. In all England and Wales, eighteen per cent. of the whole +population are driven to the parish for relief, and in London, according +to the statistics of the London County Council, twenty-one per cent. of +the whole population are driven to the parish for relief. Between being +driven to the parish for relief and being an out-and-out pauper there is +a great difference, yet London supports 123,000 paupers, quite a city of +folk in themselves. One in every four in London dies on public charity, +while 939 out of every 1000 in the United Kingdom die in poverty; +8,000,000 simply struggle on the ragged edge of starvation, and +20,000,000 more are not comfortable in the simple and clean sense of the +word. + +It is interesting to go more into detail concerning the London people who +die on charity. + +In 1886, and up to 1893, the percentage of pauperism to population was +less in London than in all England; but since 1893, and for every +succeeding year, the percentage of pauperism to population has been +greater in London than in all England. Yet, from the Registrar-General's +Report for 1886, the following figures are taken:- + +Out of 81,951 deaths in London (1884):- + +In workhouses 9,909 +In hospitals 6,559 +In lunatic asylums 278 +Total in public refuges 16,746 + +Commenting on these figures, a Fabian writer says: "Considering that +comparatively few of these are children, it is probable that one in every +three London adults will be driven into one of these refuges to die, and +the proportion in the case of the manual labour class must of course be +still larger." + +These figures serve somewhat to indicate the proximity of the average +worker to pauperism. Various things make pauperism. An advertisement, +for instance, such as this, appearing in yesterday morning's paper:- + +"Clerk wanted, with knowledge of shorthand, typewriting, and invoicing: +wages ten shillings ($2.50) a week. Apply by letter," &c. + +And in to-day's paper I read of a clerk, thirty-five years of age and an +inmate of a London workhouse, brought before a magistrate for +non-performance of task. He claimed that he had done his various tasks +since he had been an inmate; but when the master set him to breaking +stones, his hands blistered, and he could not finish the task. He had +never been used to an implement heavier than a pen, he said. The +magistrate sentenced him and his blistered hands to seven days' hard +labour. + +Old age, of course, makes pauperism. And then there is the accident, the +thing happening, the death or disablement of the husband, father, and +bread-winner. Here is a man, with a wife and three children, living on +the ticklish security of twenty shillings per week--and there are +hundreds of thousands of such families in London. Perforce, to even half +exist, they must live up to the last penny of it, so that a week's wages +(one pound) is all that stands between this family and pauperism or +starvation. The thing happens, the father is struck down, and what then? +A mother with three children can do little or nothing. Either she must +hand her children over to society as juvenile paupers, in order to be +free to do something adequate for herself, or she must go to the sweat- +shops for work which she can perform in the vile den possible to her +reduced income. But with the sweat-shops, married women who eke out +their husband's earnings, and single women who have but themselves +miserably to support, determine the scale of wages. And this scale of +wages, so determined, is so low that the mother and her three children +can live only in positive beastliness and semi-starvation, till decay and +death end their suffering. + +To show that this mother, with her three children to support, cannot +compete in the sweating industries, I instance from the current +newspapers the two following cases:- + +A father indignantly writes that his daughter and a girl companion +receive 8.5d. per gross for making boxes. They made each day four gross. +Their expenses were 8d. for car fare, 2d. for stamps, 2.5d. for glue, and +1d. for string, so that all they earned between them was 1s. 9d., or a +daily wage each of 10.5d. + +In the second ewe, before the Luton Guardians a few days ago, an old +woman of seventy-two appeared, asking for relief. "She was a straw-hat +maker, but had been compelled to give up the work owing to the price she +obtained for them--namely, 2.25d. each. For that price she had to +provide plait trimmings and make and finish the hats." + +Yet this mother and her three children we are considering have done no +wrong that they should be so punished. They have not sinned. The thing +happened, that is all; the husband, father and bread-winner, was struck +down. There is no guarding against it. It is fortuitous. A family +stands so many chances of escaping the bottom of the Abyss, and so many +chances of falling plump down to it. The chance is reducible to cold, +pitiless figures, and a few of these figures will not be out of place. + +Sir A. Forwood calculates that-- + +1 of every 1400 workmen is killed annually. +1 of every 2500 workmen is totally disabled. +1 of every 300 workmen is permanently partially disabled. +1 of every 8 workmen is temporarily disabled 3 or 4 weeks. + +But these are only the accidents of industry. The high mortality of the +people who live in the Ghetto plays a terrible part. The average age at +death among the people of the West End is fifty-five years; the average +age at death among the people of the East End is thirty years. That is +to say, the person in the West End has twice the chance for life that the +person has in the East End. Talk of war! The mortality in South Africa +and the Philippines fades away to insignificance. Here, in the heart of +peace, is where the blood is being shed; and here not even the civilised +rules of warfare obtain, for the women and children and babes in the arms +are killed just as ferociously as the men are killed. War! In England, +every year, 500,000 men, women, and children, engaged in the various +industries, are killed and disabled, or are injured to disablement by +disease. + +In the West End eighteen per cent. of the children die before five years +of age; in the East End fifty-five per cent. of the children die before +five years of age. And there are streets in London where out of every +one hundred children born in a year, fifty die during the next year; and +of the fifty that remain, twenty-five die before they are five years old. +Slaughter! Herod did not do quite so badly. + +That industry causes greater havoc with human life than battle does no +better substantiation can be given than the following extract from a +recent report of the Liverpool Medical Officer, which is not applicable +to Liverpool alone:- + + In many instances little if any sunlight could get to the courts, and + the atmosphere within the dwellings was always foul, owing largely to + the saturated condition of the walls and ceilings, which for so many + years had absorbed the exhalations of the occupants into their porous + material. Singular testimony to the absence of sunlight in these + courts was furnished by the action of the Parks and Gardens Committee, + who desired to brighten the homes of the poorest class by gifts of + growing flowers and window-boxes; but these gifts could not be made in + courts such as these, _as flowers and plants were susceptible to the + unwholesome surroundings, and would not live_. + +Mr. George Haw has compiled the following table on the three St. George's +parishes (London parishes):- + + Percentage of + Population Death-rate + Overcrowded per 1000 +St. George's West 10 13.2 +St. George's South 35 23.7 +St. George's East 40 26.4 + +Then there are the "dangerous trades," in which countless workers are +employed. Their hold on life is indeed precarious--far, far more +precarious than the hold of the twentieth-century soldier on life. In +the linen trade, in the preparation of the flax, wet feet and wet clothes +cause an unusual amount of bronchitis, pneumonia, and severe rheumatism; +while in the carding and spinning departments the fine dust produces lung +disease in the majority of cases, and the woman who starts carding at +seventeen or eighteen begins to break up and go to pieces at thirty. The +chemical labourers, picked from the strongest and most splendidly-built +men to be found, live, on an average, less than forty-eight years. + +Says Dr. Arlidge, of the potter's trade: "Potter's dust does not kill +suddenly, but settles, year after year, a little more firmly into the +lungs, until at length a case of plaster is formed. Breathing becomes +more and more difficult and depressed, and finally ceases." + +Steel dust, stone dust, clay dust, alkali dust, fluff dust, fibre +dust--all these things kill, and they are more deadly than machine-guns +and pom-poms. Worst of all is the lead dust in the white-lead trades. +Here is a description of the typical dissolution of a young, healthy, +well-developed girl who goes to work in a white-lead factory:- + + Here, after a varying degree of exposure, she becomes anaemic. It may + be that her gums show a very faint blue line, or perchance her teeth + and gums are perfectly sound, and no blue line is discernible. + Coincidently with the anaemia she has been getting thinner, but so + gradually as scarcely to impress itself upon her or her friends. + Sickness, however, ensues, and headaches, growing in intensity, are + developed. These are frequently attended by obscuration of vision or + temporary blindness. Such a girl passes into what appears to her + friends and medical adviser as ordinary hysteria. This gradually + deepens without warning, until she is suddenly seized with a + convulsion, beginning in one half of the face, then involving the arm, + next the leg of the same side of the body, until the convulsion, + violent and purely epileptic form in character, becomes universal. + This is attended by loss of consciousness, out of which she passes + into a series of convulsions, gradually increasing in severity, in one + of which she dies--or consciousness, partial or perfect, is regained, + either, it may be, for a few minutes, a few hours, or days, during + which violent headache is complained of, or she is delirious and + excited, as in acute mania, or dull and sullen as in melancholia, and + requires to be roused, when she is found wandering, and her speech is + somewhat imperfect. Without further warning, save that the pulse, + which has become soft, with nearly the normal number of beats, all at + once becomes low and hard; she is suddenly seized with another + convulsion, in which she dies, or passes into a state of coma from + which she never rallies. In another case the convulsions will + gradually subside, the headache disappears and the patient recovers, + only to find that she has completely lost her eyesight, a loss that + may be temporary or permanent. + +And here are a few specific cases of white-lead poisoning:- + + Charlotte Rafferty, a fine, well-grown young woman with a splendid + constitution--who had never had a day's illness in her life--became a + white-lead worker. Convulsions seized her at the foot of the ladder + in the works. Dr. Oliver examined her, found the blue line along her + gums, which shows that the system is under the influence of the lead. + He knew that the convulsions would shortly return. They did so, and + she died. + + Mary Ann Toler--a girl of seventeen, who had never had a fit in her + life--three times became ill, and had to leave off work in the + factory. Before she was nineteen she showed symptoms of lead + poisoning--had fits, frothed at the mouth, and died. + + Mary A., an unusually vigorous woman, was able to work in the lead + factory for _twenty years_, having colic once only during that time. + Her eight children all died in early infancy from convulsions. One + morning, whilst brushing her hair, this woman suddenly lost all power + in both her wrists. + + Eliza H., aged twenty-five, _after five months_ at lead works, was + seized with colic. She entered another factory (after being refused + by the first one) and worked on uninterruptedly for two years. Then + the former symptoms returned, she was seized with convulsions, and + died in two days of acute lead poisoning. + +Mr. Vaughan Nash, speaking of the unborn generation, says: "The children +of the white-lead worker enter the world, as a rule, only to die from the +convulsions of lead poisoning--they are either born prematurely, or die +within the first year." + +And, finally, let me instance the case of Harriet A. Walker, a young girl +of seventeen, killed while leading a forlorn hope on the industrial +battlefield. She was employed as an enamelled ware brusher, wherein lead +poisoning is encountered. Her father and brother were both out of +employment. She concealed her illness, walked six miles a day to and +from work, earned her seven or eight shillings per week, and died, at +seventeen. + +Depression in trade also plays an important part in hurling the workers +into the Abyss. With a week's wages between a family and pauperism, a +month's enforced idleness means hardship and misery almost indescribable, +and from the ravages of which the victims do not always recover when work +is to be had again. Just now the daily papers contain the report of a +meeting of the Carlisle branch of the Dockers' Union, wherein it is +stated that many of the men, for months past, have not averaged a weekly +income of more than from four to five shillings. The stagnated state of +the shipping industry in the port of London is held accountable for this +condition of affairs. + +To the young working-man or working-woman, or married couple, there is no +assurance of happy or healthy middle life, nor of solvent old age. Work +as they will, they cannot make their future secure. It is all a matter +of chance. Everything depends upon the thing happening, the thing with +which they have nothing to do. Precaution cannot fend it off, nor can +wiles evade it. If they remain on the industrial battlefield they must +face it and take their chance against heavy odds. Of course, if they are +favourably made and are not tied by kinship duties, they may run away +from the industrial battlefield. In which event the safest thing the man +can do is to join the army; and for the woman, possibly, to become a Red +Cross nurse or go into a nunnery. In either case they must forego home +and children and all that makes life worth living and old age other than +a nightmare. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII--SUICIDE + + +With life so precarious, and opportunity for the happiness of life so +remote, it is inevitable that life shall be cheap and suicide common. So +common is it, that one cannot pick up a daily paper without running +across it; while an attempt-at-suicide case in a police court excites no +more interest than an ordinary "drunk," and is handled with the same +rapidity and unconcern. + +I remember such a case in the Thames Police Court. I pride myself that I +have good eyes and ears, and a fair working knowledge of men and things; +but I confess, as I stood in that court-room, that I was half bewildered +by the amazing despatch with which drunks, disorderlies, vagrants, +brawlers, wife-beaters, thieves, fences, gamblers, and women of the +street went through the machine of justice. The dock stood in the centre +of the court (where the light is best), and into it and out again stepped +men, women, and children, in a stream as steady as the stream of +sentences which fell from the magistrate's lips. + +I was still pondering over a consumptive "fence" who had pleaded +inability to work and necessity for supporting wife and children, and who +had received a year at hard labour, when a young boy of about twenty +appeared in the dock. "Alfred Freeman," I caught his name, but failed to +catch the charge. A stout and motherly-looking woman bobbed up in the +witness-box and began her testimony. Wife of the Britannia lock-keeper, +I learned she was. Time, night; a splash; she ran to the lock and found +the prisoner in the water. + +I flashed my gaze from her to him. So that was the charge, self-murder. +He stood there dazed and unheeding, his bonny brown hair rumpled down his +forehead, his face haggard and careworn and boyish still. + +"Yes, sir," the lock-keeper's wife was saying. "As fast as I pulled to +get 'im out, 'e crawled back. Then I called for 'elp, and some workmen +'appened along, and we got 'im out and turned 'im over to the constable." + +The magistrate complimented the woman on her muscular powers, and the +court-room laughed; but all I could see was a boy on the threshold of +life, passionately crawling to muddy death, and there was no laughter in +it. + +A man was now in the witness-box, testifying to the boy's good character +and giving extenuating evidence. He was the boy's foreman, or had been. +Alfred was a good boy, but he had had lots of trouble at home, money +matters. And then his mother was sick. He was given to worrying, and he +worried over it till he laid himself out and wasn't fit for work. He +(the foreman), for the sake of his own reputation, the boy's work being +bad, had been forced to ask him to resign. + +"Anything to say?" the magistrate demanded abruptly. + +The boy in the dock mumbled something indistinctly. He was still dazed. + +"What does he say, constable?" the magistrate asked impatiently. + +The stalwart man in blue bent his ear to the prisoner's lips, and then +replied loudly, "He says he's very sorry, your Worship." + +"Remanded," said his Worship; and the next case was under way, the first +witness already engaged in taking the oath. The boy, dazed and +unheeding, passed out with the jailer. That was all, five minutes from +start to finish; and two hulking brutes in the dock were trying +strenuously to shift the responsibility of the possession of a stolen +fishing-pole, worth probably ten cents. + +The chief trouble with these poor folk is that they do not know how to +commit suicide, and usually have to make two or three attempts before +they succeed. This, very naturally, is a horrid nuisance to the +constables and magistrates, and gives them no end of trouble. Sometimes, +however, the magistrates are frankly outspoken about the matter, and +censure the prisoners for the slackness of their attempts. For instance +Mr. R. S---, chairman of the S--- B--- magistrates, in the case the other +day of Ann Wood, who tried to make away with herself in the canal: "If +you wanted to do it, why didn't you do it and get it done with?" demanded +the indignant Mr. R. S---. "Why did you not get under the water and make +an end of it, instead of giving us all this trouble and bother?" + +Poverty, misery, and fear of the workhouse, are the principal causes of +suicide among the working classes. "I'll drown myself before I go into +the workhouse," said Ellen Hughes Hunt, aged fifty-two. Last Wednesday +they held an inquest on her body at Shoreditch. Her husband came from +the Islington Workhouse to testify. He had been a cheesemonger, but +failure in business and poverty had driven him into the workhouse, +whither his wife had refused to accompany him. + +She was last seen at one in the morning. Three hours later her hat and +jacket were found on the towing path by the Regent's Canal, and later her +body was fished from the water. _Verdict: Suicide during temporary +insanity_. + +Such verdicts are crimes against truth. The Law is a lie, and through it +men lie most shamelessly. For instance, a disgraced woman, forsaken and +spat upon by kith and kin, doses herself and her baby with laudanum. The +baby dies; but she pulls through after a few weeks in hospital, is +charged with murder, convicted, and sentenced to ten years' penal +servitude. Recovering, the Law holds her responsible for her actions; +yet, had she died, the same Law would have rendered a verdict of +temporary insanity. + +Now, considering the case of Ellen Hughes Hunt, it is as fair and logical +to say that her husband was suffering from temporary insanity when he +went into the Islington Workhouse, as it is to say that she was suffering +from temporary insanity when she went into the Regent's Canal. As to +which is the preferable sojourning place is a matter of opinion, of +intellectual judgment. I, for one, from what I know of canals and +workhouses, should choose the canal, were I in a similar position. And I +make bold to contend that I am no more insane than Ellen Hughes Hunt, her +husband, and the rest of the human herd. + +Man no longer follows instinct with the old natural fidelity. He has +developed into a reasoning creature, and can intellectually cling to life +or discard life just as life happens to promise great pleasure or pain. I +dare to assert that Ellen Hughes Hunt, defrauded and bilked of all the +joys of life which fifty-two years' service in the world has earned, with +nothing but the horrors of the workhouse before her, was very rational +and level-headed when she elected to jump into the canal. And I dare to +assert, further, that the jury had done a wiser thing to bring in a +verdict charging society with temporary insanity for allowing Ellen +Hughes Hunt to be defrauded and bilked of all the joys of life which +fifty-two years' service in the world had earned. + +Temporary insanity! Oh, these cursed phrases, these lies of language, +under which people with meat in their bellies and whole shirts on their +backs shelter themselves, and evade the responsibility of their brothers +and sisters, empty of belly and without whole shirts on their backs. + +From one issue of the _Observer_, an East End paper, I quote the +following commonplace events:- + + A ship's fireman, named Johnny King, was charged with attempting to + commit suicide. On Wednesday defendant went to Bow Police Station and + stated that he had swallowed a quantity of phosphor paste, as he was + hard up and unable to obtain work. King was taken inside and an + emetic administered, when he vomited up a quantity of the poison. + Defendant now said he was very sorry. Although he had sixteen years' + good character, he was unable to obtain work of any kind. Mr. + Dickinson had defendant put back for the court missionary to see him. + + Timothy Warner, thirty-two, was remanded for a similar offence. He + jumped off Limehouse Pier, and when rescued, said, "I intended to do + it." + + A decent-looking young woman, named Ellen Gray, was remanded on a + charge of attempting to commit suicide. About half-past eight on + Sunday morning Constable 834 K found defendant lying in a doorway in + Benworth Street, and she was in a very drowsy condition. She was + holding an empty bottle in one hand, and stated that some two or three + hours previously she had swallowed a quantity of laudanum. As she was + evidently very ill, the divisional surgeon was sent for, and having + administered some coffee, ordered that she was to be kept awake. When + defendant was charged, she stated that the reason why she attempted to + take her life was she had neither home nor friends. + +I do not say that all people who commit suicide are sane, no more than I +say that all people who do not commit suicide are sane. Insecurity of +food and shelter, by the way, is a great cause of insanity among the +living. Costermongers, hawkers, and pedlars, a class of workers who live +from hand to mouth more than those of any other class, form the highest +percentage of those in the lunatic asylums. Among the males each year, +26.9 per 10,000 go insane, and among the women, 36.9. On the other hand, +of soldiers, who are at least sure of food and shelter, 13 per 10,000 go +insane; and of farmers and graziers, only 5.1. So a coster is twice as +likely to lose his reason as a soldier, and five times as likely as a +farmer. + +Misfortune and misery are very potent in turning people's heads, and +drive one person to the lunatic asylum, and another to the morgue or the +gallows. When the thing happens, and the father and husband, for all of +his love for wife and children and his willingness to work, can get no +work to do, it is a simple matter for his reason to totter and the light +within his brain go out. And it is especially simple when it is taken +into consideration that his body is ravaged by innutrition and disease, +in addition to his soul being torn by the sight of his suffering wife and +little ones. + +"He is a good-looking man, with a mass of black hair, dark, expressive +eyes, delicately chiselled nose and chin, and wavy, fair moustache." This +is the reporter's description of Frank Cavilla as he stood in court, this +dreary month of September, "dressed in a much worn grey suit, and wearing +no collar." + +Frank Cavilla lived and worked as a house decorator in London. He is +described as a good workman, a steady fellow, and not given to drink, +while all his neighbours unite in testifying that he was a gentle and +affectionate husband and father. + +His wife, Hannah Cavilla, was a big, handsome, light-hearted woman. She +saw to it that his children were sent neat and clean (the neighbours all +remarked the fact) to the Childeric Road Board School. And so, with such +a man, so blessed, working steadily and living temperately, all went +well, and the goose hung high. + +Then the thing happened. He worked for a Mr. Beck, builder, and lived in +one of his master's houses in Trundley Road. Mr. Beck was thrown from +his trap and killed. The thing was an unruly horse, and, as I say, it +happened. Cavilla had to seek fresh employment and find another house. + +This occurred eighteen months ago. For eighteen months he fought the big +fight. He got rooms in a little house in Batavia Road, but could not +make both ends meet. Steady work could not be obtained. He struggled +manfully at casual employment of all sorts, his wife and four children +starving before his eyes. He starved himself, and grew weak, and fell +ill. This was three months ago, and then there was absolutely no food at +all. They made no complaint, spoke no word; but poor folk know. The +housewives of Batavia Road sent them food, but so respectable were the +Cavillas that the food was sent anonymously, mysteriously, so as not to +hurt their pride. + +The thing had happened. He had fought, and starved, and suffered for +eighteen months. He got up one September morning, early. He opened his +pocket-knife. He cut the throat of his wife, Hannah Cavilla, aged thirty- +three. He cut the throat of his first-born, Frank, aged twelve. He cut +the throat of his son, Walter, aged eight. He cut the throat of his +daughter, Nellie, aged four. He cut the throat of his youngest-born, +Ernest, aged sixteen months. Then he watched beside the dead all day +until the evening, when the police came, and he told them to put a penny +in the slot of the gas-meter in order that they might have light to see. + +Frank Cavilla stood in court, dressed in a much worn grey suit, and +wearing no collar. He was a good-looking man, with a mass of black hair, +dark, expressive eyes, delicately chiselled nose and chin, and wavy, fair +moustache. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII--THE CHILDREN + + + "Where home is a hovel, and dull we grovel, + Forgetting the world is fair." + +There is one beautiful sight in the East End, and only one, and it is the +children dancing in the street when the organ-grinder goes his round. It +is fascinating to watch them, the new-born, the next generation, swaying +and stepping, with pretty little mimicries and graceful inventions all +their own, with muscles that move swiftly and easily, and bodies that +leap airily, weaving rhythms never taught in dancing school. + +I have talked with these children, here, there, and everywhere, and they +struck me as being bright as other children, and in many ways even +brighter. They have most active little imaginations. Their capacity for +projecting themselves into the realm of romance and fantasy is +remarkable. A joyous life is romping in their blood. They delight in +music, and motion, and colour, and very often they betray a startling +beauty of face and form under their filth and rags. + +But there is a Pied Piper of London Town who steals them all away. They +disappear. One never sees them again, or anything that suggests them. +You may look for them in vain amongst the generation of grown-ups. Here +you will find stunted forms, ugly faces, and blunt and stolid minds. +Grace, beauty, imagination, all the resiliency of mind and muscle, are +gone. Sometimes, however, you may see a woman, not necessarily old, but +twisted and deformed out of all womanhood, bloated and drunken, lift her +draggled skirts and execute a few grotesque and lumbering steps upon the +pavement. It is a hint that she was once one of those children who +danced to the organ-grinder. Those grotesque and lumbering steps are all +that is left of the promise of childhood. In the befogged recesses of +her brain has arisen a fleeting memory that she was once a girl. The +crowd closes in. Little girls are dancing beside her, about her, with +all the pretty graces she dimly recollects, but can no more than parody +with her body. Then she pants for breath, exhausted, and stumbles out +through the circle. But the little girls dance on. + +The children of the Ghetto possess all the qualities which make for noble +manhood and womanhood; but the Ghetto itself, like an infuriated tigress +turning on its young, turns upon and destroys all these qualities, blots +out the light and laughter, and moulds those it does not kill into sodden +and forlorn creatures, uncouth, degraded, and wretched below the beasts +of the field. + +As to the manner in which this is done, I have in previous chapters +described it at length; here let Professor Huxley describe it in brief:- + +"Any one who is acquainted with the state of the population of all great +industrial centres, whether in this or other countries, is aware that +amidst a large and increasing body of that population there reigns +supreme . . . that condition which the French call _la misere_, a word +for which I do not think there is any exact English equivalent. It is a +condition in which the food, warmth, and clothing which are necessary for +the mere maintenance of the functions of the body in their normal state +cannot be obtained; in which men, women, and children are forced to crowd +into dens wherein decency is abolished, and the most ordinary conditions +of healthful existence are impossible of attainment; in which the +pleasures within reach are reduced to brutality and drunkenness; in which +the pains accumulate at compound interest in the shape of starvation, +disease, stunted development, and moral degradation; in which the +prospect of even steady and honest industry is a life of unsuccessful +battling with hunger, rounded by a pauper's grave." + +In such conditions, the outlook for children is hopeless. They die like +flies, and those that survive, survive because they possess excessive +vitality and a capacity of adaptation to the degradation with which they +are surrounded. They have no home life. In the dens and lairs in which +they live they are exposed to all that is obscene and indecent. And as +their minds are made rotten, so are their bodies made rotten by bad +sanitation, overcrowding, and underfeeding. When a father and mother +live with three or four children in a room where the children take turn +about in sitting up to drive the rats away from the sleepers, when those +children never have enough to eat and are preyed upon and made miserable +and weak by swarming vermin, the sort of men and women the survivors will +make can readily be imagined. + + "Dull despair and misery + Lie about them from their birth; + Ugly curses, uglier mirth, + Are their earliest lullaby." + +A man and a woman marry and set up housekeeping in one room. Their +income does not increase with the years, though their family does, and +the man is exceedingly lucky if he can keep his health and his job. A +baby comes, and then another. This means that more room should be +obtained; but these little mouths and bodies mean additional expense and +make it absolutely impossible to get more spacious quarters. More babies +come. There is not room in which to turn around. The youngsters run the +streets, and by the time they are twelve or fourteen the room-issue comes +to a head, and out they go on the streets for good. The boy, if he be +lucky, can manage to make the common lodging-houses, and he may have any +one of several ends. But the girl of fourteen or fifteen, forced in this +manner to leave the one room called home, and able to earn at the best a +paltry five or six shillings per week, can have but one end. And the +bitter end of that one end is such as that of the woman whose body the +police found this morning in a doorway in Dorset Street, Whitechapel. +Homeless, shelterless, sick, with no one with her in her last hour, she +had died in the night of exposure. She was sixty-two years old and a +match vendor. She died as a wild animal dies. + +Fresh in my mind is the picture of a boy in the dock of an East End +police court. His head was barely visible above the railing. He was +being proved guilty of stealing two shillings from a woman, which he had +spent, not for candy and cakes and a good time, but for food. + +"Why didn't you ask the woman for food?" the magistrate demanded, in a +hurt sort of tone. "She would surely have given you something to eat." + +"If I 'ad arsked 'er, I'd got locked up for beggin'," was the boy's +reply. + +The magistrate knitted his brows and accepted the rebuke. Nobody knew +the boy, nor his father or mother. He was without beginning or +antecedent, a waif, a stray, a young cub seeking his food in the jungle +of empire, preying upon the weak and being preyed upon by the strong. + +The people who try to help, who gather up the Ghetto children and send +them away on a day's outing to the country, believe that not very many +children reach the age of ten without having had at least one day there. +Of this, a writer says: "The mental change caused by one day so spent +must not be undervalued. Whatever the circumstances, the children learn +the meaning of fields and woods, so that descriptions of country scenery +in the books they read, which before conveyed no impression, become now +intelligible." + +One day in the fields and woods, if they are lucky enough to be picked up +by the people who try to help! And they are being born faster every day +than they can be carted off to the fields and woods for the one day in +their lives. One day! In all their lives, one day! And for the rest of +the days, as the boy told a certain bishop, "At ten we 'ops the wag; at +thirteen we nicks things; an' at sixteen we bashes the copper." Which is +to say, at ten they play truant, at thirteen steal, and at sixteen are +sufficiently developed hooligans to smash the policemen. + +The Rev. J. Cartmel Robinson tells of a boy and girl of his parish who +set out to walk to the forest. They walked and walked through the never- +ending streets, expecting always to see it by-and-by; until they sat down +at last, faint and despairing, and were rescued by a kind woman who +brought them back. Evidently they had been overlooked by the people who +try to help. + +The same gentleman is authority for the statement that in a street in +Hoxton (a district of the vast East End), over seven hundred children, +between five and thirteen years, live in eighty small houses. And he +adds: "It is because London has largely shut her children in a maze of +streets and houses and robbed them of their rightful inheritance in sky +and field and brook, that they grow up to be men and women physically +unfit." + +He tells of a member of his congregation who let a basement room to a +married couple. "They said they had two children; when they got +possession it turned out that they had four. After a while a fifth +appeared, and the landlord gave them notice to quit. They paid no +attention to it. Then the sanitary inspector who has to wink at the law +so often, came in and threatened my friend with legal proceedings. He +pleaded that he could not get them out. They pleaded that nobody would +have them with so many children at a rental within their means, which is +one of the commonest complaints of the poor, by-the-bye. What was to be +done? The landlord was between two millstones. Finally he applied to +the magistrate, who sent up an officer to inquire into the case. Since +that time about twenty days have elapsed, and nothing has yet been done. +Is this a singular case? By no means; it is quite common." + +Last week the police raided a disorderly house. In one room were found +two young children. They were arrested and charged with being inmates +the same as the women had been. Their father appeared at the trial. He +stated that himself and wife and two older children, besides the two in +the dock, occupied that room; he stated also that he occupied it because +he could get no other room for the half-crown a week he paid for it. The +magistrate discharged the two juvenile offenders and warned the father +that he was bringing his children up unhealthily. + +But there is no need further to multiply instances. In London the +slaughter of the innocents goes on on a scale more stupendous than any +before in the history of the world. And equally stupendous is the +callousness of the people who believe in Christ, acknowledge God, and go +to church regularly on Sunday. For the rest of the week they riot about +on the rents and profits which come to them from the East End stained +with the blood of the children. Also, at times, so peculiarly are they +made, they will take half a million of these rents and profits and send +it away to educate the black boys of the Soudan. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV--A VISION OF THE NIGHT + + + All these were years ago little red-coloured, pulpy infants, capable + of being kneaded, baked, into any social form you chose.--CARLYLE. + +Late last night I walked along Commercial Street from Spitalfields to +Whitechapel, and still continuing south, down Leman Street to the docks. +And as I walked I smiled at the East End papers, which, filled with civic +pride, boastfully proclaim that there is nothing the matter with the East +End as a living place for men and women. + +It is rather hard to tell a tithe of what I saw. Much of it is +untenable. But in a general way I may say that I saw a nightmare, a +fearful slime that quickened the pavement with life, a mess of +unmentionable obscenity that put into eclipse the "nightly horror" of +Piccadilly and the Strand. It _was_ a menagerie of garmented bipeds that +looked something like humans and more like beasts, and to complete the +picture, brass-buttoned keepers kept order among them when they snarled +too fiercely. + +I was glad the keepers were there, for I did not have on my "seafaring" +clothes, and I was what is called a "mark" for the creatures of prey that +prowled up and down. At times, between keepers, these males looked at me +sharply, hungrily, gutter-wolves that they were, and I was afraid of +their hands, of their naked hands, as one may be afraid of the paws of a +gorilla. They reminded me of gorillas. Their bodies were small, ill- +shaped, and squat. There were no swelling muscles, no abundant thews and +wide-spreading shoulders. They exhibited, rather, an elemental economy +of nature, such as the cave-men must have exhibited. But there was +strength in those meagre bodies, the ferocious, primordial strength to +clutch and gripe and tear and rend. When they spring upon their human +prey they are known even to bend the victim backward and double its body +till the back is broken. They possess neither conscience nor sentiment, +and they will kill for a half-sovereign, without fear or favour, if they +are given but half a chance. They are a new species, a breed of city +savages. The streets and houses, alleys and courts, are their hunting +grounds. As valley and mountain are to the natural savage, street and +building are valley and mountain to them. The slum is their jungle, and +they live and prey in the jungle. + +The dear soft people of the golden theatres and wonder-mansions of the +West End do not see these creatures, do not dream that they exist. But +they are here, alive, very much alive in their jungle. And woe the day, +when England is fighting in her last trench, and her able-bodied men are +on the firing line! For on that day they will crawl out of their dens +and lairs, and the people of the West End will see them, as the dear soft +aristocrats of Feudal France saw them and asked one another, "Whence came +they?" "Are they men?" + +But they were not the only beasts that ranged the menagerie. They were +only here and there, lurking in dark courts and passing like grey shadows +along the walls; but the women from whose rotten loins they spring were +everywhere. They whined insolently, and in maudlin tones begged me for +pennies, and worse. They held carouse in every boozing ken, slatternly, +unkempt, bleary-eyed, and towsled, leering and gibbering, overspilling +with foulness and corruption, and, gone in debauch, sprawling across +benches and bars, unspeakably repulsive, fearful to look upon. + +And there were others, strange, weird faces and forms and twisted +monstrosities that shouldered me on every side, inconceivable types of +sodden ugliness, the wrecks of society, the perambulating carcasses, the +living deaths--women, blasted by disease and drink till their shame +brought not tuppence in the open mart; and men, in fantastic rags, +wrenched by hardship and exposure out of all semblance of men, their +faces in a perpetual writhe of pain, grinning idiotically, shambling like +apes, dying with every step they took and each breath they drew. And +there were young girls, of eighteen and twenty, with trim bodies and +faces yet untouched with twist and bloat, who had fetched the bottom of +the Abyss plump, in one swift fall. And I remember a lad of fourteen, +and one of six or seven, white-faced and sickly, homeless, the pair of +them, who sat upon the pavement with their backs against a railing and +watched it all. + +The unfit and the unneeded! Industry does not clamour for them. There +are no jobs going begging through lack of men and women. The dockers +crowd at the entrance gate, and curse and turn away when the foreman does +not give them a call. The engineers who have work pay six shillings a +week to their brother engineers who can find nothing to do; 514,000 +textile workers oppose a resolution condemning the employment of children +under fifteen. Women, and plenty to spare, are found to toil under the +sweat-shop masters for tenpence a day of fourteen hours. Alfred Freeman +crawls to muddy death because he loses his job. Ellen Hughes Hunt +prefers Regent's Canal to Islington Workhouse. Frank Cavilla cuts the +throats of his wife and children because he cannot find work enough to +give them food and shelter. + +The unfit and the unneeded! The miserable and despised and forgotten, +dying in the social shambles. The progeny of prostitution--of the +prostitution of men and women and children, of flesh and blood, and +sparkle and spirit; in brief, the prostitution of labour. If this is the +best that civilisation can do for the human, then give us howling and +naked savagery. Far better to be a people of the wilderness and desert, +of the cave and the squatting-place, than to be a people of the machine +and the Abyss. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV--THE HUNGER WAIL + + +"My father has more stamina than I, for he is country-born." + +The speaker, a bright young East Ender, was lamenting his poor physical +development. + +"Look at my scrawny arm, will you." He pulled up his sleeve. "Not +enough to eat, that's what's the matter with it. Oh, not now. I have +what I want to eat these days. But it's too late. It can't make up for +what I didn't have to eat when I was a kiddy. Dad came up to London from +the Fen Country. Mother died, and there were six of us kiddies and dad +living in two small rooms. + +"He had hard times, dad did. He might have chucked us, but he didn't. He +slaved all day, and at night he came home and cooked and cared for us. He +was father and mother, both. He did his best, but we didn't have enough +to eat. We rarely saw meat, and then of the worst. And it is not good +for growing kiddies to sit down to a dinner of bread and a bit of cheese, +and not enough of it. + +"And what's the result? I am undersized, and I haven't the stamina of my +dad. It was starved out of me. In a couple of generations there'll be +no more of me here in London. Yet there's my younger brother; he's +bigger and better developed. You see, dad and we children held together, +and that accounts for it." + +"But I don't see," I objected. "I should think, under such conditions, +that the vitality should decrease and the younger children be born weaker +and weaker." + +"Not when they hold together," he replied. "Whenever you come along in +the East End and see a child of from eight to twelve, good-sized, well- +developed, and healthy-looking, just you ask and you will find that it is +the youngest in the family, or at least is one of the younger. The way +of it is this: the older children starve more than the younger ones. By +the time the younger ones come along, the older ones are starting to +work, and there is more money coming in, and more food to go around." + +He pulled down his sleeve, a concrete instance of where chronic +semi-starvation kills not, but stunts. His voice was but one among the +myriads that raise the cry of the hunger wail in the greatest empire in +the world. On any one day, over 1,000,000 people are in receipt of poor- +law relief in the United Kingdom. One in eleven of the whole working- +class receive poor-law relief in the course of the year; 37,500,000 +people receive less than 12 pounds per month, per family; and a constant +army of 8,000,000 lives on the border of starvation. + +A committee of the London County school board makes this declaration: "At +times, _when there is no special distress_, 55,000 children in a state of +hunger, which makes it useless to attempt to teach them, are in the +schools of London alone." The italics are mine. "When there is no +special distress" means good times in England; for the people of England +have come to look upon starvation and suffering, which they call +"distress," as part of the social order. Chronic starvation is looked +upon as a matter of course. It is only when acute starvation makes its +appearance on a large scale that they think something is unusual + +I shall never forget the bitter wail of a blind man in a little East End +shop at the close of a murky day. He had been the eldest of five +children, with a mother and no father. Being the eldest, he had starved +and worked as a child to put bread into the mouths of his little brothers +and sisters. Not once in three months did he ever taste meat. He never +knew what it was to have his hunger thoroughly appeased. And he claimed +that this chronic starvation of his childhood had robbed him of his +sight. To support the claim, he quoted from the report of the Royal +Commission on the Blind, "Blindness is more prevalent in poor districts, +and poverty accelerates this dreadful affliction." + +But he went further, this blind man, and in his voice was the bitterness +of an afflicted man to whom society did not give enough to eat. He was +one of an enormous army of blind in London, and he said that in the blind +homes they did not receive half enough to eat. He gave the diet for a +day:- + +Breakfast--0.75 pint of skilly and dry bread. +Dinner --3 oz. meat. + 1 slice of bread. + 0.5 lb. potatoes. +Supper --0.75 pint of skilly and dry bread. + +Oscar Wilde, God rest his soul, voices the cry of the prison child, +which, in varying degree, is the cry of the prison man and woman:- + +"The second thing from which a child suffers in prison is hunger. The +food that is given to it consists of a piece of usually bad-baked prison +bread and a tin of water for breakfast at half-past seven. At twelve +o'clock it gets dinner, composed of a tin of coarse Indian meal stirabout +(skilly), and at half-past five it gets a piece of dry bread and a tin of +water for its supper. This diet in the case of a strong grown man is +always productive of illness of some kind, chiefly of course diarrhoea, +with its attendant weakness. In fact, in a big prison astringent +medicines are served out regularly by the warders as a matter of course. +In the case of a child, the child is, as a rule, incapable of eating the +food at all. Any one who knows anything about children knows how easily +a child's digestion is upset by a fit of crying, or trouble and mental +distress of any kind. A child who has been crying all day long, and +perhaps half the night, in a lonely dim-lit cell, and is preyed upon by +terror, simply cannot eat food of this coarse, horrible kind. In the +case of the little child to whom Warder Martin gave the biscuits, the +child was crying with hunger on Tuesday morning, and utterly unable to +eat the bread and water served to it for its breakfast. Martin went out +after the breakfasts had been served and bought the few sweet biscuits +for the child rather than see it starving. It was a beautiful action on +his part, and was so recognised by the child, who, utterly unconscious of +the regulations of the Prison Board, told one of the senior wardens how +kind this junior warden had been to him. The result was, of course, a +report and a dismissal." + +Robert Blatchford compares the workhouse pauper's daily diet with the +soldier's, which, when he was a soldier, was not considered liberal +enough, and yet is twice as liberal as the pauper's. + +PAUPER DIET SOLDIER +3.25 oz. Meat 12 oz. +15.5 oz. Bread 24 oz. +6 oz. Vegetables 8 oz. + +The adult male pauper gets meat (outside of soup) but once a week, and +the paupers "have nearly all that pallid, pasty complexion which is the +sure mark of starvation." + +Here is a table, comparing the workhouse officer's weekly allowance:- + +OFFICER DIET PAUPER +7 lb. Bread 6.75 lb. +5 lb. Meat 1 lb. 2 oz. +12 oz. Bacon 2.5 oz. +8 oz. Cheese 2 oz. +7 lb. Potatoes 1.5 lb. +6 lb. Vegetables none. +1 lb. Flour none. +2 oz. Lard none. +12 oz. Butter 7 oz. +none. Rice Pudding 1 lb. + +And as the same writer remarks: "The officer's diet is still more liberal +than the pauper's; but evidently it is not considered liberal enough, for +a footnote is added to the officer's table saying that 'a cash payment of +two shillings and sixpence a week is also made to each resident officer +and servant.' If the pauper has ample food, why does the officer have +more? And if the officer has not too much, can the pauper be properly +fed on less than half the amount?" + +But it is not alone the Ghetto-dweller, the prisoner, and the pauper that +starve. Hodge, of the country, does not know what it is always to have a +full belly. In truth, it is his empty belly which has driven him to the +city in such great numbers. Let us investigate the way of living of a +labourer from a parish in the Bradfield Poor Law Union, Berks. Supposing +him to have two children, steady work, a rent-free cottage, and an +average weekly wage of thirteen shillings, which is equivalent to $3.25, +then here is his weekly budget:- + + s. d. +Bread (5 quarterns) 1 10 +Flour (0.5 gallon) 0 4 +Tea (0.25 lb.) 0 6 +Butter (1 lb.) 1 3 +Lard (1 lb.) 0 6 +Sugar (6 lb.) 1 0 +Bacon or other meat (about 0.25 lb.) 2 8 +Cheese (1 lb.) 0 8 +Milk (half-tin condensed) 0 3.25 +Coal 1 6 +Beer none +Tobacco none +Insurance ("Prudential") 0 3 +Labourers' Union 0 1 +Wood, tools, dispensary, &c. 0 6 +Insurance ("Foresters") and margin 1 1.75 + for clothes +Total 13 0 + +The guardians of the workhouse in the above Union pride themselves on +their rigid economy. It costs per pauper per week:- + + s. d. +Men 6 1.5 +Women 5 6.5 +Children 5 1.25 + +If the labourer whose budget has been described should quit his toil and +go into the workhouse, he would cost the guardians for + + s. d. +Himself 6 1.5 +Wife 5 6.5 +Two children 10 2.5 +Total 21 10.5 +Or roughly, $5.46 + +It would require more than a guinea for the workhouse to care for him and +his family, which he, somehow, manages to do on thirteen shillings. And +in addition, it is an understood fact that it is cheaper to cater for a +large number of people--buying, cooking, and serving wholesale--than it +is to cater for a small number of people, say a family. + +Nevertheless, at the time this budget was compiled, there was in that +parish another family, not of four, but eleven persons, who had to live +on an income, not of thirteen shillings, but of twelve shillings per week +(eleven shillings in winter), and which had, not a rent-free cottage, but +a cottage for which it paid three shillings per week. + +This must be understood, and understood clearly: _Whatever is true of +London in the way of poverty and degradation, is true of all England_. +While Paris is not by any means France, the city of London is England. +The frightful conditions which mark London an inferno likewise mark the +United Kingdom an inferno. The argument that the decentralisation of +London would ameliorate conditions is a vain thing and false. If the +6,000,000 people of London were separated into one hundred cities each +with a population of 60,000, misery would be decentralised but not +diminished. The sum of it would remain as large. + +In this instance, Mr. B. S. Rowntree, by an exhaustive analysis, has +proved for the country town what Mr. Charles Booth has proved for the +metropolis, that fully one-fourth of the dwellers are condemned to a +poverty which destroys them physically and spiritually; that fully one- +fourth of the dwellers do not have enough to eat, are inadequately +clothed, sheltered, and warmed in a rigorous climate, and are doomed to a +moral degeneracy which puts them lower than the savage in cleanliness and +decency. + +After listening to the wail of an old Irish peasant in Kerry, Robert +Blatchford asked him what he wanted. "The old man leaned upon his spade +and looked out across the black peat fields at the lowering skies. 'What +is it that I'm wantun?' he said; then in a deep plaintive tone he +continued, more to himself than to me, 'All our brave bhoys and dear +gurrls is away an' over the says, an' the agent has taken the pig off me, +an' the wet has spiled the praties, an' I'm an owld man, _an' I want the +Day av Judgment_.'" + +The Day of Judgment! More than he want it. From all the land rises the +hunger wail, from Ghetto and countryside, from prison and casual ward, +from asylum and workhouse--the cry of the people who have not enough to +eat. Millions of people, men, women, children, little babes, the blind, +the deaf, the halt, the sick, vagabonds and toilers, prisoners and +paupers, the people of Ireland, England, Scotland, Wales, who have not +enough to eat. And this, in face of the fact that five men can produce +bread for a thousand; that one workman can produce cotton cloth for 250 +people, woollens for 300, and boots and shoes for 1000. It would seem +that 40,000,000 people are keeping a big house, and that they are keeping +it badly. The income is all right, but there is something criminally +wrong with the management. And who dares to say that it is not +criminally mismanaged, this big house, when five men can produce bread +for a thousand, and yet millions have not enough to eat? + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI--DRINK, TEMPERANCE, AND THRIFT + + +The English working classes may be said to be soaked in beer. They are +made dull and sodden by it. Their efficiency is sadly impaired, and they +lose whatever imagination, invention, and quickness may be theirs by +right of race. It may hardly be called an acquired habit, for they are +accustomed to it from their earliest infancy. Children are begotten in +drunkenness, saturated in drink before they draw their first breath, born +to the smell and taste of it, and brought up in the midst of it. + +The public-house is ubiquitous. It flourishes on every corner and +between corners, and it is frequented almost as much by women as by men. +Children are to be found in it as well, waiting till their fathers and +mothers are ready to go home, sipping from the glasses of their elders, +listening to the coarse language and degrading conversation, catching the +contagion of it, familiarising themselves with licentiousness and +debauchery. + +Mrs. Grundy rules as supremely over the workers as she does over the +bourgeoisie; but in the case of the workers, the one thing she does not +frown upon is the public-house. No disgrace or shame attaches to it, nor +to the young woman or girl who makes a practice of entering it. + +I remember a girl in a coffee-house saying, "I never drink spirits when +in a public-'ouse." She was a young and pretty waitress, and she was +laying down to another waitress her pre-eminent respectability and +discretion. Mrs. Grundy drew the line at spirits, but allowed that it +was quite proper for a clean young girl to drink beer, and to go into a +public-house to drink it. + +Not only is this beer unfit for the people to drink, but too often the +men and women are unfit to drink it. On the other hand, it is their very +unfitness that drives them to drink it. Ill-fed, suffering from +innutrition and the evil effects of overcrowding and squalor, their +constitutions develop a morbid craving for the drink, just as the sickly +stomach of the overstrung Manchester factory operative hankers after +excessive quantities of pickles and similar weird foods. Unhealthy +working and living engenders unhealthy appetites and desires. Man cannot +be worked worse than a horse is worked, and be housed and fed as a pig is +housed and fed, and at the same time have clean and wholesome ideals and +aspirations. + +As home-life vanishes, the public-house appears. Not only do men and +women abnormally crave drink, who are overworked, exhausted, suffering +from deranged stomachs and bad sanitation, and deadened by the ugliness +and monotony of existence, but the gregarious men and women who have no +home-life flee to the bright and clattering public-house in a vain +attempt to express their gregariousness. And when a family is housed in +one small room, home-life is impossible. + +A brief examination of such a dwelling will serve to bring to light one +important cause of drunkenness. Here the family arises in the morning, +dresses, and makes its toilet, father, mother, sons, and daughters, and +in the same room, shoulder to shoulder (for the room is small), the wife +and mother cooks the breakfast. And in the same room, heavy and +sickening with the exhalations of their packed bodies throughout the +night, that breakfast is eaten. The father goes to work, the elder +children go to school or into the street, and the mother remains with her +crawling, toddling youngsters to do her housework--still in the same +room. Here she washes the clothes, filling the pent space with soapsuds +and the smell of dirty clothes, and overhead she hangs the wet linen to +dry. + +Here, in the evening, amid the manifold smells of the day, the family +goes to its virtuous couch. That is to say, as many as possible pile +into the one bed (if bed they have), and the surplus turns in on the +floor. And this is the round of their existence, month after month, year +after year, for they never get a vacation save when they are evicted. +When a child dies, and some are always bound to die, since fifty-five per +cent. of the East End children die before they are five years old, the +body is laid out in the same room. And if they are very poor, it is kept +for some time until they can bury it. During the day it lies on the bed; +during the night, when the living take the bed, the dead occupies the +table, from which, in the morning, when the dead is put back into the +bed, they eat their breakfast. Sometimes the body is placed on the shelf +which serves as a pantry for their food. Only a couple of weeks ago, an +East End woman was in trouble, because, in this fashion, being unable to +bury it, she had kept her dead child three weeks. + +Now such a room as I have described is not home but horror; and the men +and women who flee away from it to the public-house are to be pitied, not +blamed. There are 300,000 people, in London, divided into families that +live in single rooms, while there are 900,000 who are illegally housed +according to the Public Health Act of 1891--a respectable +recruiting-ground for the drink traffic. + +Then there are the insecurity of happiness, the precariousness of +existence, the well-founded fear of the future--potent factors in driving +people to drink. Wretchedness squirms for alleviation, and in the public- +house its pain is eased and forgetfulness is obtained. It is unhealthy. +Certainly it is, but everything else about their lives is unhealthy, +while this brings the oblivion that nothing else in their lives can +bring. It even exalts them, and makes them feel that they are finer and +better, though at the same time it drags them down and makes them more +beastly than ever. For the unfortunate man or woman, it is a race +between miseries that ends with death. + +It is of no avail to preach temperance and teetotalism to these people. +The drink habit may be the cause of many miseries; but it is, in turn, +the effect of other and prior miseries. The temperance advocates may +preach their hearts out over the evils of drink, but until the evils that +cause people to drink are abolished, drink and its evils will remain. + +Until the people who try to help realise this, their well-intentioned +efforts will be futile, and they will present a spectacle fit only to set +Olympus laughing. I have gone through an exhibition of Japanese art, got +up for the poor of Whitechapel with the idea of elevating them, of +begetting in them yearnings for the Beautiful and True and Good. Granting +(what is not so) that the poor folk are thus taught to know and yearn +after the Beautiful and True and Good, the foul facts of their existence +and the social law that dooms one in three to a public-charity death, +demonstrate that this knowledge and yearning will be only so much of an +added curse to them. They will have so much more to forget than if they +had never known and yearned. Did Destiny to-day bind me down to the life +of an East End slave for the rest of my years, and did Destiny grant me +but one wish, I should ask that I might forget all about the Beautiful +and True and Good; that I might forget all I had learned from the open +books, and forget the people I had known, the things I had heard, and the +lands I had seen. And if Destiny didn't grant it, I am pretty confident +that I should get drunk and forget it as often as possible. + +These people who try to help! Their college settlements, missions, +charities, and what not, are failures. In the nature of things they +cannot but be failures. They are wrongly, though sincerely, conceived. +They approach life through a misunderstanding of life, these good folk. +They do not understand the West End, yet they come down to the East End +as teachers and savants. They do not understand the simple sociology of +Christ, yet they come to the miserable and the despised with the pomp of +social redeemers. They have worked faithfully, but beyond relieving an +infinitesimal fraction of misery and collecting a certain amount of data +which might otherwise have been more scientifically and less expensively +collected, they have achieved nothing. + +As some one has said, they do everything for the poor except get off +their backs. The very money they dribble out in their child's schemes +has been wrung from the poor. They come from a race of successful and +predatory bipeds who stand between the worker and his wages, and they try +to tell the worker what he shall do with the pitiful balance left to him. +Of what use, in the name of God, is it to establish nurseries for women +workers, in which, for instance, a child is taken while the mother makes +violets in Islington at three farthings a gross, when more children and +violet-makers than they can cope with are being born right along? This +violet-maker handles each flower four times, 576 handlings for three +farthings, and in the day she handles the flowers 6912 times for a wage +of ninepence. She is being robbed. Somebody is on her back, and a +yearning for the Beautiful and True and Good will not lighten her burden. +They do nothing for her, these dabblers; and what they do not do for the +mother, undoes at night, when the child comes home, all that they have +done for the child in the day. + +And one and all, they join in teaching a fundamental lie. They do not +know it is a lie, but their ignorance does not make it more of a truth. +And the lie they preach is "thrift." An instant will demonstrate it. In +overcrowded London, the struggle for a chance to work is keen, and +because of this struggle wages sink to the lowest means of subsistence. +To be thrifty means for a worker to spend less than his income--in other +words, to live on less. This is equivalent to a lowering of the standard +of living. In the competition for a chance to work, the man with a lower +standard of living will underbid the man with a higher standard. And a +small group of such thrifty workers in any overcrowded industry will +permanently lower the wages of that industry. And the thrifty ones will +no longer be thrifty, for their income will have been reduced till it +balances their expenditure. + +In short, thrift negates thrift. If every worker in England should heed +the preachers of thrift and cut expenditure in half, the condition of +there being more men to work than there is work to do would swiftly cut +wages in half. And then none of the workers of England would be thrifty, +for they would be living up to their diminished incomes. The +short-sighted thrift-preachers would naturally be astounded at the +outcome. The measure of their failure would be precisely the measure of +the success of their propaganda. And, anyway, it is sheer bosh and +nonsense to preach thrift to the 1,800,000 London workers who are divided +into families which have a total income of less than 21s. per week, one +quarter to one half of which must be paid for rent. + +Concerning the futility of the people who try to help, I wish to make one +notable, noble exception, namely, the Dr. Barnardo Homes. Dr. Barnardo +is a child-catcher. First, he catches them when they are young, before +they are set, hardened, in the vicious social mould; and then he sends +them away to grow up and be formed in another and better social mould. Up +to date he has sent out of the country 13,340 boys, most of them to +Canada, and not one in fifty has failed. A splendid record, when it is +considered that these lads are waifs and strays, homeless and parentless, +jerked out from the very bottom of the Abyss, and forty-nine out of fifty +of them made into men. + +Every twenty-four hours in the year Dr. Barnardo snatches nine waifs from +the streets; so the enormous field he has to work in may be comprehended. +The people who try to help have something to learn from him. He does not +play with palliatives. He traces social viciousness and misery to their +sources. He removes the progeny of the gutter-folk from their +pestilential environment, and gives them a healthy, wholesome environment +in which to be pressed and prodded and moulded into men. + +When the people who try to help cease their playing and dabbling with day +nurseries and Japanese art exhibits and go back and learn their West End +and the sociology of Christ, they will be in better shape to buckle down +to the work they ought to be doing in the world. And if they do buckle +down to the work, they will follow Dr. Barnardo's lead, only on a scale +as large as the nation is large. They won't cram yearnings for the +Beautiful, and True, and Good down the throat of the woman making violets +for three farthings a gross, but they will make somebody get off her back +and quit cramming himself till, like the Romans, he must go to a bath and +sweat it out. And to their consternation, they will find that they will +have to get off that woman's back themselves, as well as the backs of a +few other women and children they did not dream they were riding upon. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII--THE MANAGEMENT + + +In this final chapter it were well to look at the Social Abyss in its +widest aspect, and to put certain questions to Civilisation, by the +answers to which Civilisation must stand or fall. For instance, has +Civilisation bettered the lot of man? "Man," I use in its democratic +sense, meaning the average man. So the question re-shapes itself: _Has +Civilisation bettered the lot of the average man_? + +Let us see. In Alaska, along the banks of the Yukon River, near its +mouth, live the Innuit folk. They are a very primitive people, +manifesting but mere glimmering adumbrations of that tremendous artifice, +Civilisation. Their capital amounts possibly to 2 pounds per head. They +hunt and fish for their food with bone-headed spews and arrows. They +never suffer from lack of shelter. Their clothes, largely made from the +skins of animals, are warm. They always have fuel for their fires, +likewise timber for their houses, which they build partly underground, +and in which they lie snugly during the periods of intense cold. In the +summer they live in tents, open to every breeze and cool. They are +healthy, and strong, and happy. Their one problem is food. They have +their times of plenty and times of famine. In good times they feast; in +bad times they die of starvation. But starvation, as a chronic +condition, present with a large number of them all the time, is a thing +unknown. Further, they have no debts. + +In the United Kingdom, on the rim of the Western Ocean, live the English +folk. They are a consummately civilised people. Their capital amounts +to at least 300 pounds per head. They gain their food, not by hunting +and fishing, but by toil at colossal artifices. For the most part, they +suffer from lack of shelter. The greater number of them are vilely +housed, do not have enough fuel to keep them warm, and are insufficiently +clothed. A constant number never have any houses at all, and sleep +shelterless under the stars. Many are to be found, winter and summer, +shivering on the streets in their rags. They have good times and bad. In +good times most of them manage to get enough to eat, in bad times they +die of starvation. They are dying now, they were dying yesterday and +last year, they will die to-morrow and next year, of starvation; for +they, unlike the Innuit, suffer from a chronic condition of starvation. +There are 40,000,000 of the English folk, and 939 out of every 1000 of +them die in poverty, while a constant army of 8,000,000 struggles on the +ragged edge of starvation. Further, each babe that is born, is born in +debt to the sum of 22 pounds. This is because of an artifice called the +National Debt. + +In a fair comparison of the average Innuit and the average Englishman, it +will be seen that life is less rigorous for the Innuit; that while the +Innuit suffers only during bad times from starvation, the Englishman +suffers during good times as well; that no Innuit lacks fuel, clothing, +or housing, while the Englishman is in perpetual lack of these three +essentials. In this connection it is well to instance the judgment of a +man such as Huxley. From the knowledge gained as a medical officer in +the East End of London, and as a scientist pursuing investigations among +the most elemental savages, he concludes, "Were the alternative presented +to me, I would deliberately prefer the life of the savage to that of +those people of Christian London." + +The creature comforts man enjoys are the products of man's labour. Since +Civilisation has failed to give the average Englishman food and shelter +equal to that enjoyed by the Innuit, the question arises: _Has +Civilisation increased the producing power of the average man_? If it +has not increased man's producing power, then Civilisation cannot stand. + +But, it will be instantly admitted, Civilisation has increased man's +producing power. Five men can produce bread for a thousand. One man can +produce cotton cloth for 250 people, woollens for 300, and boots and +shoes for 1000. Yet it has been shown throughout the pages of this book +that English folk by the millions do not receive enough food, clothes, +and boots. Then arises the third and inexorable question: _If +Civilisation has increased the producing power of the average man, why +has it not bettered the lot of the average man_? + +There can be one answer only--MISMANAGEMENT. Civilisation has made +possible all manner of creature comforts and heart's delights. In these +the average Englishman does not participate. If he shall be forever +unable to participate, then Civilisation falls. There is no reason for +the continued existence of an artifice so avowed a failure. But it is +impossible that men should have reared this tremendous artifice in vain. +It stuns the intellect. To acknowledge so crushing a defeat is to give +the death-blow to striving and progress. + +One other alternative, and one other only, presents itself. _Civilisation +must be compelled to better the lot of the average men_. This accepted, +it becomes at once a question of business management. Things profitable +must be continued; things unprofitable must be eliminated. Either the +Empire is a profit to England, or it is a loss. If it is a loss, it must +be done away with. If it is a profit, it must be managed so that the +average man comes in for a share of the profit. + +If the struggle for commercial supremacy is profitable, continue it. If +it is not, if it hurts the worker and makes his lot worse than the lot of +a savage, then fling foreign markets and industrial empire overboard. For +it is a patent fact that if 40,000,000 people, aided by Civilisation, +possess a greater individual producing power than the Innuit, then those +40,000,000 people should enjoy more creature comforts and heart's +delights than the Innuits enjoy. + +If the 400,000 English gentlemen, "of no occupation," according to their +own statement in the Census of 1881, are unprofitable, do away with them. +Set them to work ploughing game preserves and planting potatoes. If they +are profitable, continue them by all means, but let it be seen to that +the average Englishman shares somewhat in the profits they produce by +working at no occupation. + +In short, society must be reorganised, and a capable management put at +the head. That the present management is incapable, there can be no +discussion. It has drained the United Kingdom of its life-blood. It has +enfeebled the stay-at-home folk till they are unable longer to struggle +in the van of the competing nations. It has built up a West End and an +East End as large as the Kingdom is large, in which one end is riotous +and rotten, the other end sickly and underfed. + +A vast empire is foundering on the hands of this incapable management. +And by empire is meant the political machinery which holds together the +English-speaking people of the world outside of the United States. Nor +is this charged in a pessimistic spirit. Blood empire is greater than +political empire, and the English of the New World and the Antipodes are +strong and vigorous as ever. But the political empire under which they +are nominally assembled is perishing. The political machine known as the +British Empire is running down. In the hands of its management it is +losing momentum every day. + +It is inevitable that this management, which has grossly and criminally +mismanaged, shall be swept away. Not only has it been wasteful and +inefficient, but it has misappropriated the funds. Every worn-out, pasty- +faced pauper, every blind man, every prison babe, every man, woman, and +child whose belly is gnawing with hunger pangs, is hungry because the +funds have been misappropriated by the management. + +Nor can one member of this managing class plead not guilty before the +judgment bar of Man. "The living in their houses, and in their graves +the dead," are challenged by every babe that dies of innutrition, by +every girl that flees the sweater's den to the nightly promenade of +Piccadilly, by every worked-out toiler that plunges into the canal. The +food this managing class eats, the wine it drinks, the shows it makes, +and the fine clothes it wears, are challenged by eight million mouths +which have never had enough to fill them, and by twice eight million +bodies which have never been sufficiently clothed and housed. + +There can be no mistake. Civilisation has increased man's producing +power an hundred-fold, and through mismanagement the men of Civilisation +live worse than the beasts, and have less to eat and wear and protect +them from the elements than the savage Innuit in a frigid climate who +lives to-day as he lived in the stone age ten thousand years ago. + + + + +CHALLENGE + + +I have a vague remembrance + Of a story that is told +In some ancient Spanish legend + Or chronicle of old. + +It was when brave King Sanche + Was before Zamora slain, +And his great besieging army + Lay encamped upon the plain. + +Don Diego de Ordenez + Sallied forth in front of all, +And shouted loud his challenge + To the warders on the wall. + +All the people of Zamora, + Both the born and the unborn, +As traitors did he challenge + With taunting words of scorn. + +The living in their houses, + And in their graves the dead, +And the waters in their rivers, + And their wine, and oil, and bread. + +There is a greater army + That besets us round with strife, +A starving, numberless army + At all the gates of life. + +The poverty-stricken millions + Who challenge our wine and bread, +And impeach us all as traitors, + Both the living and the dead. + +And whenever I sit at the banquet, + Where the feast and song are high, +Amid the mirth and music + I can hear that fearful cry. + +And hollow and haggard faces + Look into the lighted hall, +And wasted hands are extended + To catch the crumbs that fall + +And within there is light and plenty, + And odours fill the air; +But without there is cold and darkness, + And hunger and despair. + +And there in the camp of famine, + In wind, and cold, and rain, +Christ, the great Lord of the Army, + Lies dead upon the plain. + +LONGFELLOW + + + + +Footnotes: + + +{1} This in the Klondike.--J. L. + +{2} "Runt" in America is the equivalent of the English "crowl," the +dwarf of a litter. + +{3} The San Francisco bricklayer receives twenty shillings per day, and +at present is on strike for twenty-four shillings. diff --git a/data/isles.txt b/data/isles.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd74c5f --- /dev/null +++ b/data/isles.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5650 @@ +A JOURNEY TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND + + +INCH KEITH + + +I had desired to visit the Hebrides, or Western Islands of Scotland, so +long, that I scarcely remember how the wish was originally excited; and +was in the Autumn of the year 1773 induced to undertake the journey, by +finding in Mr. Boswell a companion, whose acuteness would help my +inquiry, and whose gaiety of conversation and civility of manners are +sufficient to counteract the inconveniences of travel, in countries less +hospitable than we have passed. + +On the eighteenth of August we left Edinburgh, a city too well known to +admit description, and directed our course northward, along the eastern +coast of Scotland, accompanied the first day by another gentleman, who +could stay with us only long enough to shew us how much we lost at +separation. + +As we crossed the Frith of Forth, our curiosity was attracted by Inch +Keith, a small island, which neither of my companions had ever visited, +though, lying within their view, it had all their lives solicited their +notice. Here, by climbing with some difficulty over shattered crags, we +made the first experiment of unfrequented coasts. Inch Keith is nothing +more than a rock covered with a thin layer of earth, not wholly bare of +grass, and very fertile of thistles. A small herd of cows grazes +annually upon it in the summer. It seems never to have afforded to man +or beast a permanent habitation. + +We found only the ruins of a small fort, not so injured by time but that +it might be easily restored to its former state. It seems never to have +been intended as a place of strength, nor was built to endure a siege, +but merely to afford cover to a few soldiers, who perhaps had the charge +of a battery, or were stationed to give signals of approaching danger. +There is therefore no provision of water within the walls, though the +spring is so near, that it might have been easily enclosed. One of the +stones had this inscription: 'Maria Reg. 1564.' It has probably been +neglected from the time that the whole island had the same king. + +We left this little island with our thoughts employed awhile on the +different appearance that it would have made, if it had been placed at +the same distance from London, with the same facility of approach; with +what emulation of price a few rocky acres would have been purchased, and +with what expensive industry they would have been cultivated and adorned. + +When we landed, we found our chaise ready, and passed through Kinghorn, +Kirkaldy, and Cowpar, places not unlike the small or straggling market- +towns in those parts of England where commerce and manufactures have not +yet produced opulence. + +Though we were yet in the most populous part of Scotland, and at so small +a distance from the capital, we met few passengers. + +The roads are neither rough nor dirty; and it affords a southern stranger +a new kind of pleasure to travel so commodiously without the interruption +of toll-gates. Where the bottom is rocky, as it seems commonly to be in +Scotland, a smooth way is made indeed with great labour, but it never +wants repairs; and in those parts where adventitious materials are +necessary, the ground once consolidated is rarely broken; for the inland +commerce is not great, nor are heavy commodities often transported +otherwise than by water. The carriages in common use are small carts, +drawn each by one little horse; and a man seems to derive some degree of +dignity and importance from the reputation of possessing a two-horse +cart. + + + + +ST. ANDREWS + + +At an hour somewhat late we came to St. Andrews, a city once +archiepiscopal; where that university still subsists in which philosophy +was formerly taught by Buchanan, whose name has as fair a claim to +immortality as can be conferred by modern latinity, and perhaps a fairer +than the instability of vernacular languages admits. + +We found, that by the interposition of some invisible friend, lodgings +had been provided for us at the house of one of the professors, whose +easy civility quickly made us forget that we were strangers; and in the +whole time of our stay we were gratified by every mode of kindness, and +entertained with all the elegance of lettered hospitality. + +In the morning we rose to perambulate a city, which only history shews to +have once flourished, and surveyed the ruins of ancient magnificence, of +which even the ruins cannot long be visible, unless some care be taken to +preserve them; and where is the pleasure of preserving such mournful +memorials? They have been till very lately so much neglected, that every +man carried away the stones who fancied that he wanted them. + +The cathedral, of which the foundations may be still traced, and a small +part of the wall is standing, appears to have been a spacious and +majestick building, not unsuitable to the primacy of the kingdom. Of the +architecture, the poor remains can hardly exhibit, even to an artist, a +sufficient specimen. It was demolished, as is well known, in the tumult +and violence of Knox's reformation. + +Not far from the cathedral, on the margin of the water, stands a fragment +of the castle, in which the archbishop anciently resided. It was never +very large, and was built with more attention to security than pleasure. +Cardinal Beatoun is said to have had workmen employed in improving its +fortifications at the time when he was murdered by the ruffians of +reformation, in the manner of which Knox has given what he himself calls +a merry narrative. + +The change of religion in Scotland, eager and vehement as it was, raised +an epidemical enthusiasm, compounded of sullen scrupulousness and warlike +ferocity, which, in a people whom idleness resigned to their own +thoughts, and who, conversing only with each other, suffered no dilution +of their zeal from the gradual influx of new opinions, was long +transmitted in its full strength from the old to the young, but by trade +and intercourse with England, is now visibly abating, and giving way too +fast to that laxity of practice and indifference of opinion, in which +men, not sufficiently instructed to find the middle point, too easily +shelter themselves from rigour and constraint. + +The city of St. Andrews, when it had lost its archiepiscopal +pre-eminence, gradually decayed: One of its streets is now lost; and in +those that remain, there is silence and solitude of inactive indigence +and gloomy depopulation. + +The university, within a few years, consisted of three colleges, but is +now reduced to two; the college of St. Leonard being lately dissolved by +the sale of its buildings and the appropriation of its revenues to the +professors of the two others. The chapel of the alienated college is yet +standing, a fabrick not inelegant of external structure; but I was +always, by some civil excuse, hindred from entering it. A decent +attempt, as I was since told, has been made to convert it into a kind of +green-house, by planting its area with shrubs. This new method of +gardening is unsuccessful; the plants do not hitherto prosper. To what +use it will next be put I have no pleasure in conjecturing. It is +something that its present state is at least not ostentatiously +displayed. Where there is yet shame, there may in time be virtue. + +The dissolution of St. Leonard's college was doubtless necessary; but of +that necessity there is reason to complain. It is surely not without +just reproach, that a nation, of which the commerce is hourly extending, +and the wealth encreasing, denies any participation of its prosperity to +its literary societies; and while its merchants or its nobles are raising +palaces, suffers its universities to moulder into dust. + +Of the two colleges yet standing, one is by the institution of its +founder appropriated to Divinity. It is said to be capable of containing +fifty students; but more than one must occupy a chamber. The library, +which is of late erection, is not very spacious, but elegant and +luminous. + +The doctor, by whom it was shewn, hoped to irritate or subdue my English +vanity by telling me, that we had no such repository of books in England. + +Saint Andrews seems to be a place eminently adapted to study and +education, being situated in a populous, yet a cheap country, and +exposing the minds and manners of young men neither to the levity and +dissoluteness of a capital city, nor to the gross luxury of a town of +commerce, places naturally unpropitious to learning; in one the desire of +knowledge easily gives way to the love of pleasure, and in the other, is +in danger of yielding to the love of money. + +The students however are represented as at this time not exceeding a +hundred. Perhaps it may be some obstruction to their increase that there +is no episcopal chapel in the place. I saw no reason for imputing their +paucity to the present professors; nor can the expence of an academical +education be very reasonably objected. A student of the highest class +may keep his annual session, or as the English call it, his term, which +lasts seven months, for about fifteen pounds, and one of lower rank for +less than ten; in which board, lodging, and instruction are all included. + +The chief magistrate resident in the university, answering to our vice- +chancellor, and to the _rector magnificus_ on the continent, had commonly +the title of Lord Rector; but being addressed only as Mr. Rector in an +inauguratory speech by the present chancellor, he has fallen from his +former dignity of style. Lordship was very liberally annexed by our +ancestors to any station or character of dignity: They said, the Lord +General, and Lord Ambassador; so we still say, my Lord, to the judge upon +the circuit, and yet retain in our Liturgy the Lords of the Council. + +In walking among the ruins of religious buildings, we came to two vaults +over which had formerly stood the house of the sub-prior. One of the +vaults was inhabited by an old woman, who claimed the right of abode +there, as the widow of a man whose ancestors had possessed the same +gloomy mansion for no less than four generations. The right, however it +began, was considered as established by legal prescription, and the old +woman lives undisturbed. She thinks however that she has a claim to +something more than sufferance; for as her husband's name was Bruce, she +is allied to royalty, and told Mr. Boswell that when there were persons +of quality in the place, she was distinguished by some notice; that +indeed she is now neglected, but she spins a thread, has the company of +her cat, and is troublesome to nobody. + +Having now seen whatever this ancient city offered to our curiosity, we +left it with good wishes, having reason to be highly pleased with the +attention that was paid us. But whoever surveys the world must see many +things that give him pain. The kindness of the professors did not +contribute to abate the uneasy remembrance of an university declining, a +college alienated, and a church profaned and hastening to the ground. + +St. Andrews indeed has formerly suffered more atrocious ravages and more +extensive destruction, but recent evils affect with greater force. We +were reconciled to the sight of archiepiscopal ruins. The distance of a +calamity from the present time seems to preclude the mind from contact or +sympathy. Events long past are barely known; they are not considered. We +read with as little emotion the violence of Knox and his followers, as +the irruptions of Alaric and the Goths. Had the university been +destroyed two centuries ago, we should not have regretted it; but to see +it pining in decay and struggling for life, fills the mind with mournful +images and ineffectual wishes. + + + + +ABERBROTHICK + + +As we knew sorrow and wishes to be vain, it was now our business to mind +our way. The roads of Scotland afford little diversion to the traveller, +who seldom sees himself either encountered or overtaken, and who has +nothing to contemplate but grounds that have no visible boundaries, or +are separated by walls of loose stone. From the bank of the Tweed to St. +Andrews I had never seen a single tree, which I did not believe to have +grown up far within the present century. Now and then about a +gentleman's house stands a small plantation, which in Scotch is called a +policy, but of these there are few, and those few all very young. The +variety of sun and shade is here utterly unknown. There is no tree for +either shelter or timber. The oak and the thorn is equally a stranger, +and the whole country is extended in uniform nakedness, except that in +the road between Kirkaldy and Cowpar, I passed for a few yards between +two hedges. A tree might be a show in Scotland as a horse in Venice. At +St. Andrews Mr. Boswell found only one, and recommended it to my notice; +I told him that it was rough and low, or looked as if I thought so. This, +said he, is nothing to another a few miles off. I was still less +delighted to hear that another tree was not to be seen nearer. Nay, said +a gentleman that stood by, I know but of this and that tree in the +county. + +The Lowlands of Scotland had once undoubtedly an equal portion of woods +with other countries. Forests are every where gradually diminished, as +architecture and cultivation prevail by the increase of people and the +introduction of arts. But I believe few regions have been denuded like +this, where many centuries must have passed in waste without the least +thought of future supply. Davies observes in his account of Ireland, +that no Irishman had ever planted an orchard. For that negligence some +excuse might be drawn from an unsettled state of life, and the +instability of property; but in Scotland possession has long been secure, +and inheritance regular, yet it may be doubted whether before the Union +any man between Edinburgh and England had ever set a tree. + +Of this improvidence no other account can be given than that it probably +began in times of tumult, and continued because it had begun. Established +custom is not easily broken, till some great event shakes the whole +system of things, and life seems to recommence upon new principles. That +before the Union the Scots had little trade and little money, is no valid +apology; for plantation is the least expensive of all methods of +improvement. To drop a seed into the ground can cost nothing, and the +trouble is not great of protecting the young plant, till it is out of +danger; though it must be allowed to have some difficulty in places like +these, where they have neither wood for palisades, nor thorns for hedges. + +Our way was over the Firth of Tay, where, though the water was not wide, +we paid four shillings for ferrying the chaise. In Scotland the +necessaries of life are easily procured, but superfluities and elegancies +are of the same price at least as in England, and therefore may be +considered as much dearer. + +We stopped a while at Dundee, where I remember nothing remarkable, and +mounting our chaise again, came about the close of the day to +Aberbrothick. + +The monastery of Aberbrothick is of great renown in the history of +Scotland. Its ruins afford ample testimony of its ancient magnificence: +Its extent might, I suppose, easily be found by following the walls among +the grass and weeds, and its height is known by some parts yet standing. +The arch of one of the gates is entire, and of another only so far +dilapidated as to diversify the appearance. A square apartment of great +loftiness is yet standing; its use I could not conjecture, as its +elevation was very disproportionate to its area. Two corner towers, +particularly attracted our attention. Mr. Boswell, whose inquisitiveness +is seconded by great activity, scrambled in at a high window, but found +the stairs within broken, and could not reach the top. Of the other +tower we were told that the inhabitants sometimes climbed it, but we did +not immediately discern the entrance, and as the night was gathering upon +us, thought proper to desist. Men skilled in architecture might do what +we did not attempt: They might probably form an exact ground-plot of this +venerable edifice. They may from some parts yet standing conjecture its +general form, and perhaps by comparing it with other buildings of the +same kind and the same age, attain an idea very near to truth. I should +scarcely have regretted my journey, had it afforded nothing more than the +sight of Aberbrothick. + + + + +MONTROSE + + +Leaving these fragments of magnificence, we travelled on to Montrose, +which we surveyed in the morning, and found it well built, airy, and +clean. The townhouse is a handsome fabrick with a portico. We then went +to view the English chapel, and found a small church, clean to a degree +unknown in any other part of Scotland, with commodious galleries, and +what was yet less expected, with an organ. + +At our inn we did not find a reception such as we thought proportionate +to the commercial opulence of the place; but Mr. Boswell desired me to +observe that the innkeeper was an Englishman, and I then defended him as +well as I could. + +When I had proceeded thus far, I had opportunities of observing what I +had never heard, that there are many beggars in Scotland. In Edinburgh +the proportion is, I think, not less than in London, and in the smaller +places it is far greater than in English towns of the same extent. It +must, however, be allowed that they are not importunate, nor clamorous. +They solicit silently, or very modestly, and therefore though their +behaviour may strike with more force the heart of a stranger, they are +certainly in danger of missing the attention of their countrymen. Novelty +has always some power, an unaccustomed mode of begging excites an +unaccustomed degree of pity. But the force of novelty is by its own +nature soon at an end; the efficacy of outcry and perseverance is +permanent and certain. + +The road from Montrose exhibited a continuation of the same appearances. +The country is still naked, the hedges are of stone, and the fields so +generally plowed that it is hard to imagine where grass is found for the +horses that till them. The harvest, which was almost ripe, appeared very +plentiful. + +Early in the afternoon Mr. Boswell observed that we were at no great +distance from the house of lord Monboddo. The magnetism of his +conversation easily drew us out of our way, and the entertainment which +we received would have been a sufficient recompense for a much greater +deviation. + +The roads beyond Edinburgh, as they are less frequented, must be expected +to grow gradually rougher; but they were hitherto by no means +incommodious. We travelled on with the gentle pace of a Scotch driver, +who having no rivals in expedition, neither gives himself nor his horses +unnecessary trouble. We did not affect the impatience we did not feel, +but were satisfied with the company of each other as well riding in the +chaise, as sitting at an inn. The night and the day are equally solitary +and equally safe; for where there are so few travellers, why should there +be robbers. + + + + +ABERDEEN + + +We came somewhat late to Aberdeen, and found the inn so full, that we had +some difficulty in obtaining admission, till Mr. Boswell made himself +known: His name overpowered all objection, and we found a very good house +and civil treatment. + +I received the next day a very kind letter from Sir Alexander Gordon, +whom I had formerly known in London, and after a cessation of all +intercourse for near twenty years met here professor of physic in the +King's College. Such unexpected renewals of acquaintance may be numbered +among the most pleasing incidents of life. + +The knowledge of one professor soon procured me the notice of the rest, +and I did not want any token of regard, being conducted wherever there +was any thing which I desired to see, and entertained at once with the +novelty of the place, and the kindness of communication. + +To write of the cities of our own island with the solemnity of +geographical description, as if we had been cast upon a newly discovered +coast, has the appearance of very frivolous ostentation; yet as Scotland +is little known to the greater part of those who may read these +observations, it is not superfluous to relate, that under the name of +Aberdeen are comprised two towns standing about a mile distant from each +other, but governed, I think, by the same magistrates. + +Old Aberdeen is the ancient episcopal city, in which are still to be seen +the remains of the cathedral. It has the appearance of a town in decay, +having been situated in times when commerce was yet unstudied, with very +little attention to the commodities of the harbour. + +New Aberdeen has all the bustle of prosperous trade, and all the shew of +increasing opulence. It is built by the water-side. The houses are +large and lofty, and the streets spacious and clean. They build almost +wholly with the granite used in the new pavement of the streets of +London, which is well known not to want hardness, yet they shape it +easily. It is beautiful and must be very lasting. + +What particular parts of commerce are chiefly exercised by the merchants +of Aberdeen, I have not inquired. The manufacture which forces itself +upon a stranger's eye is that of knit-stockings, on which the women of +the lower class are visibly employed. + +In each of these towns there is a college, or in stricter language, an +university; for in both there are professors of the same parts of +learning, and the colleges hold their sessions and confer degrees +separately, with total independence of one on the other. + +In old Aberdeen stands the King's College, of which the first president +was Hector Boece, or Boethius, who may be justly reverenced as one of the +revivers of elegant learning. When he studied at Paris, he was +acquainted with Erasmus, who afterwards gave him a public testimony of +his esteem, by inscribing to him a catalogue of his works. The stile of +Boethius, though, perhaps, not always rigorously pure, is formed with +great diligence upon ancient models, and wholly uninfected with monastic +barbarity. His history is written with elegance and vigour, but his +fabulousness and credulity are justly blamed. His fabulousness, if he +was the author of the fictions, is a fault for which no apology can be +made; but his credulity may be excused in an age, when all men were +credulous. Learning was then rising on the world; but ages so long +accustomed to darkness, were too much dazzled with its light to see any +thing distinctly. The first race of scholars, in the fifteenth century, +and some time after, were, for the most part, learning to speak, rather +than to think, and were therefore more studious of elegance than of +truth. The contemporaries of Boethius thought it sufficient to know what +the ancients had delivered. The examination of tenets and of facts was +reserved for another generation. + +* * * * * + +Boethius, as president of the university, enjoyed a revenue of forty +Scottish marks, about two pounds four shillings and sixpence of sterling +money. In the present age of trade and taxes, it is difficult even for +the imagination so to raise the value of money, or so to diminish the +demands of life, as to suppose four and forty shillings a year, an +honourable stipend; yet it was probably equal, not only to the needs, but +to the rank of Boethius. The wealth of England was undoubtedly to that +of Scotland more than five to one, and it is known that Henry the eighth, +among whose faults avarice was never reckoned, granted to Roger Ascham, +as a reward of his learning, a pension of ten pounds a year. + +The other, called the Marischal College, is in the new town. The hall is +large and well lighted. One of its ornaments is the picture of Arthur +Johnston, who was principal of the college, and who holds among the Latin +poets of Scotland the next place to the elegant Buchanan. + +In the library I was shewn some curiosities; a Hebrew manuscript of +exquisite penmanship, and a Latin translation of Aristotle's Politicks by +Leonardus Aretinus, written in the Roman character with nicety and +beauty, which, as the art of printing has made them no longer necessary, +are not now to be found. This was one of the latest performances of the +transcribers, for Aretinus died but about twenty years before typography +was invented. This version has been printed, and may be found in +libraries, but is little read; for the same books have been since +translated both by Victorius and Lambinus, who lived in an age more +cultivated, but perhaps owed in part to Aretinus that they were able to +excel him. Much is due to those who first broke the way to knowledge, +and left only to their successors the task of smoothing it. + +In both these colleges the methods of instruction are nearly the same; +the lectures differing only by the accidental difference of diligence, or +ability in the professors. The students wear scarlet gowns and the +professors black, which is, I believe, the academical dress in all the +Scottish universities, except that of Edinburgh, where the scholars are +not distinguished by any particular habit. In the King's College there +is kept a public table, but the scholars of the Marischal College are +boarded in the town. The expence of living is here, according to the +information that I could obtain, somewhat more than at St. Andrews. + +The course of education is extended to four years, at the end of which +those who take a degree, who are not many, become masters of arts, and +whoever is a master may, if he pleases, immediately commence doctor. The +title of doctor, however, was for a considerable time bestowed only on +physicians. The advocates are examined and approved by their own body; +the ministers were not ambitious of titles, or were afraid of being +censured for ambition; and the doctorate in every faculty was commonly +given or sold into other countries. The ministers are now reconciled to +distinction, and as it must always happen that some will excel others, +have thought graduation a proper testimony of uncommon abilities or +acquisitions. + +The indiscriminate collation of degrees has justly taken away that +respect which they originally claimed as stamps, by which the literary +value of men so distinguished was authoritatively denoted. That +academical honours, or any others should be conferred with exact +proportion to merit, is more than human judgment or human integrity have +given reason to expect. Perhaps degrees in universities cannot be better +adjusted by any general rule than by the length of time passed in the +public profession of learning. An English or Irish doctorate cannot be +obtained by a very young man, and it is reasonable to suppose, what is +likewise by experience commonly found true, that he who is by age +qualified to be a doctor, has in so much time gained learning sufficient +not to disgrace the title, or wit sufficient not to desire it. + +The Scotch universities hold but one term or session in the year. That +of St. Andrews continues eight months, that of Aberdeen only five, from +the first of November to the first of April. + +In Aberdeen there is an English Chapel, in which the congregation was +numerous and splendid. The form of public worship used by the church of +England is in Scotland legally practised in licensed chapels served by +clergymen of English or Irish ordination, and by tacit connivance quietly +permitted in separate congregations supplied with ministers by the +successors of the bishops who were deprived at the Revolution. + +We came to Aberdeen on Saturday August 21. On Monday we were invited +into the town-hall, where I had the freedom of the city given me by the +Lord Provost. The honour conferred had all the decorations that +politeness could add, and what I am afraid I should not have had to say +of any city south of the Tweed, I found no petty officer bowing for a +fee. + +The parchment containing the record of admission is, with the seal +appending, fastened to a riband and worn for one day by the new citizen +in his hat. + +By a lady who saw us at the chapel, the Earl of Errol was informed of our +arrival, and we had the honour of an invitation to his seat, called +Slanes Castle, as I am told, improperly, from the castle of that name, +which once stood at a place not far distant. + +The road beyond Aberdeen grew more stony, and continued equally naked of +all vegetable decoration. We travelled over a tract of ground near the +sea, which, not long ago, suffered a very uncommon, and unexpected +calamity. The sand of the shore was raised by a tempest in such +quantities, and carried to such a distance, that an estate was +overwhelmed and lost. Such and so hopeless was the barrenness +superinduced, that the owner, when he was required to pay the usual tax, +desired rather to resign the ground. + + + + +SLANES CASTLE, THE BULLER OF BUCHAN + + +We came in the afternoon to Slanes Castle, built upon the margin of the +sea, so that the walls of one of the towers seem only a continuation of a +perpendicular rock, the foot of which is beaten by the waves. To walk +round the house seemed impracticable. From the windows the eye wanders +over the sea that separates Scotland from Norway, and when the winds beat +with violence must enjoy all the terrifick grandeur of the tempestuous +ocean. I would not for my amusement wish for a storm; but as storms, +whether wished or not, will sometimes happen, I may say, without +violation of humanity, that I should willingly look out upon them from +Slanes Castle. + +When we were about to take our leave, our departure was prohibited by the +countess till we should have seen two places upon the coast, which she +rightly considered as worthy of curiosity, Dun Buy, and the Buller of +Buchan, to which Mr. Boyd very kindly conducted us. + +Dun Buy, which in Erse is said to signify the Yellow Rock, is a double +protuberance of stone, open to the main sea on one side, and parted from +the land by a very narrow channel on the other. It has its name and its +colour from the dung of innumerable sea-fowls, which in the Spring chuse +this place as convenient for incubation, and have their eggs and their +young taken in great abundance. One of the birds that frequent this rock +has, as we were told, its body not larger than a duck's, and yet lays +eggs as large as those of a goose. This bird is by the inhabitants named +a Coot. That which is called Coot in England, is here a Cooter. + +Upon these rocks there was nothing that could long detain attention, and +we soon turned our eyes to the Buller, or Bouilloir of Buchan, which no +man can see with indifference, who has either sense of danger or delight +in rarity. It is a rock perpendicularly tubulated, united on one side +with a high shore, and on the other rising steep to a great height, above +the main sea. The top is open, from which may be seen a dark gulf of +water which flows into the cavity, through a breach made in the lower +part of the inclosing rock. It has the appearance of a vast well +bordered with a wall. The edge of the Buller is not wide, and to those +that walk round, appears very narrow. He that ventures to look downward +sees, that if his foot should slip, he must fall from his dreadful +elevation upon stones on one side, or into water on the other. We +however went round, and were glad when the circuit was completed. + +When we came down to the sea, we saw some boats, and rowers, and resolved +to explore the Buller at the bottom. We entered the arch, which the +water had made, and found ourselves in a place, which, though we could +not think ourselves in danger, we could scarcely survey without some +recoil of the mind. The bason in which we floated was nearly circular, +perhaps thirty yards in diameter. We were inclosed by a natural wall, +rising steep on every side to a height which produced the idea of +insurmountable confinement. The interception of all lateral light caused +a dismal gloom. Round us was a perpendicular rock, above us the distant +sky, and below an unknown profundity of water. If I had any malice +against a walking spirit, instead of laying him in the Red-sea, I would +condemn him to reside in the Buller of Buchan. + +But terrour without danger is only one of the sports of fancy, a +voluntary agitation of the mind that is permitted no longer than it +pleases. We were soon at leisure to examine the place with minute +inspection, and found many cavities which, as the waterman told us, went +backward to a depth which they had never explored. Their extent we had +not time to try; they are said to serve different purposes. Ladies come +hither sometimes in the summer with collations, and smugglers make them +storehouses for clandestine merchandise. It is hardly to be doubted but +the pirates of ancient times often used them as magazines of arms, or +repositories of plunder. + +To the little vessels used by the northern rovers, the Buller may have +served as a shelter from storms, and perhaps as a retreat from enemies; +the entrance might have been stopped, or guarded with little difficulty, +and though the vessels that were stationed within would have been +battered with stones showered on them from above, yet the crews would +have lain safe in the caverns. + +Next morning we continued our journey, pleased with our reception at +Slanes Castle, of which we had now leisure to recount the grandeur and +the elegance; for our way afforded us few topics of conversation. The +ground was neither uncultivated nor unfruitful; but it was still all +arable. Of flocks or herds there was no appearance. I had now travelled +two hundred miles in Scotland, and seen only one tree not younger than +myself. + + + + +BAMFF + + +We dined this day at the house of Mr. Frazer of Streichton, who shewed us +in his grounds some stones yet standing of a druidical circle, and what I +began to think more worthy of notice, some forest trees of full growth. + +At night we came to Bamff, where I remember nothing that particularly +claimed my attention. The ancient towns of Scotland have generally an +appearance unusual to Englishmen. The houses, whether great or small, +are for the most part built of stones. Their ends are now and then next +the streets, and the entrance into them is very often by a flight of +steps, which reaches up to the second story, the floor which is level +with the ground being entered only by stairs descending within the house. + +The art of joining squares of glass with lead is little used in Scotland, +and in some places is totally forgotten. The frames of their windows are +all of wood. They are more frugal of their glass than the English, and +will often, in houses not otherwise mean, compose a square of two pieces, +not joining like cracked glass, but with one edge laid perhaps half an +inch over the other. Their windows do not move upon hinges, but are +pushed up and drawn down in grooves, yet they are seldom accommodated +with weights and pullies. He that would have his window open must hold +it with his hand, unless what may be sometimes found among good +contrivers, there be a nail which he may stick into a hole, to keep it +from falling. + +What cannot be done without some uncommon trouble or particular +expedient, will not often be done at all. The incommodiousness of the +Scotch windows keeps them very closely shut. The necessity of +ventilating human habitations has not yet been found by our northern +neighbours; and even in houses well built and elegantly furnished, a +stranger may be sometimes forgiven, if he allows himself to wish for +fresher air. + +These diminutive observations seem to take away something from the +dignity of writing, and therefore are never communicated but with +hesitation, and a little fear of abasement and contempt. But it must be +remembered, that life consists not of a series of illustrious actions, or +elegant enjoyments; the greater part of our time passes in compliance +with necessities, in the performance of daily duties, in the removal of +small inconveniences, in the procurement of petty pleasures; and we are +well or ill at ease, as the main stream of life glides on smoothly, or is +ruffled by small obstacles and frequent interruption. The true state of +every nation is the state of common life. The manners of a people are +not to be found in the schools of learning, or the palaces of greatness, +where the national character is obscured or obliterated by travel or +instruction, by philosophy or vanity; nor is public happiness to be +estimated by the assemblies of the gay, or the banquets of the rich. The +great mass of nations is neither rich nor gay: they whose aggregate +constitutes the people, are found in the streets, and the villages, in +the shops and farms; and from them collectively considered, must the +measure of general prosperity be taken. As they approach to delicacy a +nation is refined, as their conveniences are multiplied, a nation, at +least a commercial nation, must be denominated wealthy. + + + + +ELGIN + + +Finding nothing to detain us at Bamff, we set out in the morning, and +having breakfasted at Cullen, about noon came to Elgin, where in the inn, +that we supposed the best, a dinner was set before us, which we could not +eat. This was the first time, and except one, the last, that I found any +reason to complain of a Scotish table; and such disappointments, I +suppose, must be expected in every country, where there is no great +frequency of travellers. + +The ruins of the cathedral of Elgin afforded us another proof of the +waste of reformation. There is enough yet remaining to shew, that it was +once magnificent. Its whole plot is easily traced. On the north side of +the choir, the chapter-house, which is roofed with an arch of stone, +remains entire; and on the south side, another mass of building, which we +could not enter, is preserved by the care of the family of Gordon; but +the body of the church is a mass of fragments. + +A paper was here put into our hands, which deduced from sufficient +authorities the history of this venerable ruin. The church of Elgin had, +in the intestine tumults of the barbarous ages, been laid waste by the +irruption of a highland chief, whom the bishop had offended; but it was +gradually restored to the state, of which the traces may be now +discerned, and was at last not destroyed by the tumultuous violence of +Knox, but more shamefully suffered to dilapidate by deliberate robbery +and frigid indifference. There is still extant, in the books of the +council, an order, of which I cannot remember the date, but which was +doubtless issued after the Reformation, directing that the lead, which +covers the two cathedrals of Elgin and Aberdeen, shall be taken away, and +converted into money for the support of the army. A Scotch army was in +those times very cheaply kept; yet the lead of two churches must have +born so small a proportion to any military expence, that it is hard not +to believe the reason alleged to be merely popular, and the money +intended for some private purse. The order however was obeyed; the two +churches were stripped, and the lead was shipped to be sold in Holland. I +hope every reader will rejoice that this cargo of sacrilege was lost at +sea. + +Let us not however make too much haste to despise our neighbours. Our +own cathedrals are mouldering by unregarded dilapidation. It seems to be +part of the despicable philosophy of the time to despise monuments of +sacred magnificence, and we are in danger of doing that deliberately, +which the Scots did not do but in the unsettled state of an imperfect +constitution. + +Those who had once uncovered the cathedrals never wished to cover them +again; and being thus made useless, they were, first neglected, and +perhaps, as the stone was wanted, afterwards demolished. + +Elgin seems a place of little trade, and thinly inhabited. The episcopal +cities of Scotland, I believe, generally fell with their churches, though +some of them have since recovered by a situation convenient for commerce. +Thus Glasgow, though it has no longer an archbishop, has risen beyond its +original state by the opulence of its traders; and Aberdeen, though its +ancient stock had decayed, flourishes by a new shoot in another place. + +In the chief street of Elgin, the houses jut over the lowest story, like +the old buildings of timber in London, but with greater prominence; so +that there is sometimes a walk for a considerable length under a +cloister, or portico, which is now indeed frequently broken, because the +new houses have another form, but seems to have been uniformly continued +in the old city. + + + + +FORES. CALDER. FORT GEORGE + + +We went forwards the same day to Fores, the town to which Macbeth was +travelling, when he met the weird sisters in his way. This to an +Englishman is classic ground. Our imaginations were heated, and our +thoughts recalled to their old amusements. + +We had now a prelude to the Highlands. We began to leave fertility and +culture behind us, and saw for a great length of road nothing but heath; +yet at Fochabars, a seat belonging to the duke of Gordon, there is an +orchard, which in Scotland I had never seen before, with some timber +trees, and a plantation of oaks. + +At Fores we found good accommodation, but nothing worthy of particular +remark, and next morning entered upon the road, on which Macbeth heard +the fatal prediction; but we travelled on not interrupted by promises of +kingdoms, and came to Nairn, a royal burgh, which, if once it flourished, +is now in a state of miserable decay; but I know not whether its chief +annual magistrate has not still the title of Lord Provost. + +At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands; for here I first saw peat +fires, and first heard the Erse language. We had no motive to stay +longer than to breakfast, and went forward to the house of Mr. Macaulay, +the minister who published an account of St. Kilda, and by his direction +visited Calder Castle, from which Macbeth drew his second title. It has +been formerly a place of strength. The drawbridge is still to be seen, +but the moat is now dry. The tower is very ancient: Its walls are of +great thickness, arched on the top with stone, and surrounded with +battlements. The rest of the house is later, though far from modern. + +We were favoured by a gentleman, who lives in the castle, with a letter +to one of the officers at Fort George, which being the most regular +fortification in the island, well deserves the notice of a traveller, who +has never travelled before. We went thither next day, found a very kind +reception, were led round the works by a gentleman, who explained the use +of every part, and entertained by Sir Eyre Coote, the governour, with +such elegance of conversation as left us no attention to the delicacies +of his table. + +Of Fort George I shall not attempt to give any account. I cannot +delineate it scientifically, and a loose and popular description is of +use only when the imagination is to be amused. There was every where an +appearance of the utmost neatness and regularity. But my suffrage is of +little value, because this and Fort Augustus are the only garrisons that +I ever saw. + +We did not regret the time spent at the fort, though in consequence of +our delay we came somewhat late to Inverness, the town which may properly +be called the capital of the Highlands. Hither the inhabitants of the +inland parts come to be supplied with what they cannot make for +themselves: Hither the young nymphs of the mountains and valleys are sent +for education, and as far as my observation has reached, are not sent in +vain. + + + + +INVERNESS + + +Inverness was the last place which had a regular communication by high +roads with the southern counties. All the ways beyond it have, I +believe, been made by the soldiers in this century. At Inverness +therefore Cromwell, when he subdued Scotland, stationed a garrison, as at +the boundary of the Highlands. The soldiers seem to have incorporated +afterwards with the inhabitants, and to have peopled the place with an +English race; for the language of this town has been long considered as +peculiarly elegant. + +Here is a castle, called the castle of Macbeth, the walls of which are +yet standing. It was no very capacious edifice, but stands upon a rock +so high and steep, that I think it was once not accessible, but by the +help of ladders, or a bridge. Over against it, on another hill, was a +fort built by Cromwell, now totally demolished; for no faction of +Scotland loved the name of Cromwell, or had any desire to continue his +memory. + +Yet what the Romans did to other nations, was in a great degree done by +Cromwell to the Scots; he civilized them by conquest, and introduced by +useful violence the arts of peace. I was told at Aberdeen that the +people learned from Cromwell's soldiers to make shoes and to plant kail. + +How they lived without kail, it is not easy to guess: They cultivate +hardly any other plant for common tables, and when they had not kail they +probably had nothing. The numbers that go barefoot are still sufficient +to shew that shoes may be spared: They are not yet considered as +necessaries of life; for tall boys, not otherwise meanly dressed, run +without them in the streets; and in the islands the sons of gentlemen +pass several of their first years with naked feet. + +I know not whether it be not peculiar to the Scots to have attained the +liberal, without the manual arts, to have excelled in ornamental +knowledge, and to have wanted not only the elegancies, but the +conveniences of common life. Literature soon after its revival found its +way to Scotland, and from the middle of the sixteenth century, almost to +the middle of the seventeenth, the politer studies were very diligently +pursued. The Latin poetry of _Deliciae Poetarum Scotorum_ would have +done honour to any nation, at least till the publication of _May's +Supplement_ the English had very little to oppose. + +Yet men thus ingenious and inquisitive were content to live in total +ignorance of the trades by which human wants are supplied, and to supply +them by the grossest means. Till the Union made them acquainted with +English manners, the culture of their lands was unskilful, and their +domestick life unformed; their tables were coarse as the feasts of +Eskimeaux, and their houses filthy as the cottages of Hottentots. + +Since they have known that their condition was capable of improvement, +their progress in useful knowledge has been rapid and uniform. What +remains to be done they will quickly do, and then wonder, like me, why +that which was so necessary and so easy was so long delayed. But they +must be for ever content to owe to the English that elegance and culture, +which, if they had been vigilant and active, perhaps the English might +have owed to them. + +Here the appearance of life began to alter. I had seen a few women with +plaids at Aberdeen; but at Inverness the Highland manners are common. +There is I think a kirk, in which only the Erse language is used. There +is likewise an English chapel, but meanly built, where on Sunday we saw a +very decent congregation. + +We were now to bid farewel to the luxury of travelling, and to enter a +country upon which perhaps no wheel has ever rolled. We could indeed +have used our post-chaise one day longer, along the military road to Fort +Augustus, but we could have hired no horses beyond Inverness, and we were +not so sparing of ourselves, as to lead them, merely that we might have +one day longer the indulgence of a carriage. + +At Inverness therefore we procured three horses for ourselves and a +servant, and one more for our baggage, which was no very heavy load. We +found in the course of our journey the convenience of having +disencumbered ourselves, by laying aside whatever we could spare; for it +is not to be imagined without experience, how in climbing crags, and +treading bogs, and winding through narrow and obstructed passages, a +little bulk will hinder, and a little weight will burthen; or how often a +man that has pleased himself at home with his own resolution, will, in +the hour of darkness and fatigue, be content to leave behind him every +thing but himself. + + + + +LOUGH NESS + + +We took two Highlanders to run beside us, partly to shew us the way, and +partly to take back from the sea-side the horses, of which they were the +owners. One of them was a man of great liveliness and activity, of whom +his companion said, that he would tire any horse in Inverness. Both of +them were civil and ready-handed. Civility seems part of the national +character of Highlanders. Every chieftain is a monarch, and politeness, +the natural product of royal government, is diffused from the laird +through the whole clan. But they are not commonly dexterous: their +narrowness of life confines them to a few operations, and they are +accustomed to endure little wants more than to remove them. + +We mounted our steeds on the thirtieth of August, and directed our guides +to conduct us to Fort Augustus. It is built at the head of Lough Ness, +of which Inverness stands at the outlet. The way between them has been +cut by the soldiers, and the greater part of it runs along a rock, +levelled with great labour and exactness, near the water-side. + +Most of this day's journey was very pleasant. The day, though bright, +was not hot; and the appearance of the country, if I had not seen the +Peak, would have been wholly new. We went upon a surface so hard and +level, that we had little care to hold the bridle, and were therefore at +full leisure for contemplation. On the left were high and steep rocks +shaded with birch, the hardy native of the North, and covered with fern +or heath. On the right the limpid waters of Lough Ness were beating +their bank, and waving their surface by a gentle agitation. Beyond them +were rocks sometimes covered with verdure, and sometimes towering in +horrid nakedness. Now and then we espied a little cornfield, which +served to impress more strongly the general barrenness. + +Lough Ness is about twenty-four miles long, and from one mile to two +miles broad. It is remarkable that Boethius, in his description of +Scotland, gives it twelve miles of breadth. When historians or +geographers exhibit false accounts of places far distant, they may be +forgiven, because they can tell but what they are told; and that their +accounts exceed the truth may be justly supposed, because most men +exaggerate to others, if not to themselves: but Boethius lived at no +great distance; if he never saw the lake, he must have been very +incurious, and if he had seen it, his veracity yielded to very slight +temptations. + +Lough Ness, though not twelve miles broad, is a very remarkable diffusion +of water without islands. It fills a large hollow between two ridges of +high rocks, being supplied partly by the torrents which fall into it on +either side, and partly, as is supposed, by springs at the bottom. Its +water is remarkably clear and pleasant, and is imagined by the natives to +be medicinal. We were told, that it is in some places a hundred and +forty fathoms deep, a profundity scarcely credible, and which probably +those that relate it have never sounded. Its fish are salmon, trout, and +pike. + +It was said at fort Augustus, that Lough Ness is open in the hardest +winters, though a lake not far from it is covered with ice. In +discussing these exceptions from the course of nature, the first question +is, whether the fact be justly stated. That which is strange is +delightful, and a pleasing error is not willingly detected. Accuracy of +narration is not very common, and there are few so rigidly philosophical, +as not to represent as perpetual, what is only frequent, or as constant, +what is really casual. If it be true that Lough Ness never freezes, it +is either sheltered by its high banks from the cold blasts, and exposed +only to those winds which have more power to agitate than congeal; or it +is kept in perpetual motion by the rush of streams from the rocks that +inclose it. Its profundity though it should be such as is represented +can have little part in this exemption; for though deep wells are not +frozen, because their water is secluded from the external air, yet where +a wide surface is exposed to the full influence of a freezing atmosphere, +I know not why the depth should keep it open. Natural philosophy is now +one of the favourite studies of the Scottish nation, and Lough Ness well +deserves to be diligently examined. + +The road on which we travelled, and which was itself a source of +entertainment, is made along the rock, in the direction of the lough, +sometimes by breaking off protuberances, and sometimes by cutting the +great mass of stone to a considerable depth. The fragments are piled in +a loose wall on either side, with apertures left at very short spaces, to +give a passage to the wintry currents. Part of it is bordered with low +trees, from which our guides gathered nuts, and would have had the +appearance of an English lane, except that an English lane is almost +always dirty. It has been made with great labour, but has this +advantage, that it cannot, without equal labour, be broken up. + +Within our sight there were goats feeding or playing. The mountains have +red deer, but they came not within view; and if what is said of their +vigilance and subtlety be true, they have some claim to that palm of +wisdom, which the eastern philosopher, whom Alexander interrogated, gave +to those beasts which live furthest from men. + +Near the way, by the water side, we espied a cottage. This was the first +Highland Hut that I had seen; and as our business was with life and +manners, we were willing to visit it. To enter a habitation without +leave, seems to be not considered here as rudeness or intrusion. The old +laws of hospitality still give this licence to a stranger. + +A hut is constructed with loose stones, ranged for the most part with +some tendency to circularity. It must be placed where the wind cannot +act upon it with violence, because it has no cement; and where the water +will run easily away, because it has no floor but the naked ground. The +wall, which is commonly about six feet high, declines from the +perpendicular a little inward. Such rafters as can be procured are then +raised for a roof, and covered with heath, which makes a strong and warm +thatch, kept from flying off by ropes of twisted heath, of which the +ends, reaching from the center of the thatch to the top of the wall, are +held firm by the weight of a large stone. No light is admitted but at +the entrance, and through a hole in the thatch, which gives vent to the +smoke. This hole is not directly over the fire, lest the rain should +extinguish it; and the smoke therefore naturally fills the place before +it escapes. Such is the general structure of the houses in which one of +the nations of this opulent and powerful island has been hitherto content +to live. Huts however are not more uniform than palaces; and this which +we were inspecting was very far from one of the meanest, for it was +divided into several apartments; and its inhabitants possessed such +property as a pastoral poet might exalt into riches. + +When we entered, we found an old woman boiling goats-flesh in a kettle. +She spoke little English, but we had interpreters at hand; and she was +willing enough to display her whole system of economy. She has five +children, of which none are yet gone from her. The eldest, a boy of +thirteen, and her husband, who is eighty years old, were at work in the +wood. Her two next sons were gone to Inverness to buy meal, by which +oatmeal is always meant. Meal she considered as expensive food, and told +us, that in Spring, when the goats gave milk, the children could live +without it. She is mistress of sixty goats, and I saw many kids in an +enclosure at the end of her house. She had also some poultry. By the +lake we saw a potatoe-garden, and a small spot of ground on which stood +four shucks, containing each twelve sheaves of barley. She has all this +from the labour of their own hands, and for what is necessary to be +bought, her kids and her chickens are sent to market. + +With the true pastoral hospitality, she asked us to sit down and drink +whisky. She is religious, and though the kirk is four miles off, +probably eight English miles, she goes thither every Sunday. We gave her +a shilling, and she begged snuff; for snuff is the luxury of a Highland +cottage. + +Soon afterwards we came to the General's Hut, so called because it was +the temporary abode of Wade, while he superintended the works upon the +road. It is now a house of entertainment for passengers, and we found it +not ill stocked with provisions. + + + + +FALL OF FIERS + + +Towards evening we crossed, by a bridge, the river which makes the +celebrated fall of Fiers. The country at the bridge strikes the +imagination with all the gloom and grandeur of Siberian solitude. The +way makes a flexure, and the mountains, covered with trees, rise at once +on the left hand and in the front. We desired our guides to shew us the +fall, and dismounting, clambered over very rugged crags, till I began to +wish that our curiosity might have been gratified with less trouble and +danger. We came at last to a place where we could overlook the river, +and saw a channel torn, as it seems, through black piles of stone, by +which the stream is obstructed and broken, till it comes to a very steep +descent, of such dreadful depth, that we were naturally inclined to turn +aside our eyes. + +But we visited the place at an unseasonable time, and found it divested +of its dignity and terror. Nature never gives every thing at once. A +long continuance of dry weather, which made the rest of the way easy and +delightful, deprived us of the pleasure expected from the fall of Fiers. +The river having now no water but what the springs supply, showed us only +a swift current, clear and shallow, fretting over the asperities of the +rocky bottom, and we were left to exercise our thoughts, by endeavouring +to conceive the effect of a thousand streams poured from the mountains +into one channel, struggling for expansion in a narrow passage, +exasperated by rocks rising in their way, and at last discharging all +their violence of waters by a sudden fall through the horrid chasm. + +The way now grew less easy, descending by an uneven declivity, but +without either dirt or danger. We did not arrive at Fort Augustus till +it was late. Mr. Boswell, who, between his father's merit and his own, +is sure of reception wherever he comes, sent a servant before to beg +admission and entertainment for that night. Mr. Trapaud, the governor, +treated us with that courtesy which is so closely connected with the +military character. He came out to meet us beyond the gates, and +apologized that, at so late an hour, the rules of a garrison suffered him +to give us entrance only at the postern. + + + + +FORT AUGUSTUS + + +In the morning we viewed the fort, which is much less than that of St. +George, and is said to be commanded by the neighbouring hills. It was +not long ago taken by the Highlanders. But its situation seems well +chosen for pleasure, if not for strength; it stands at the head of the +lake, and, by a sloop of sixty tuns, is supplied from Inverness with +great convenience. + +We were now to cross the Highlands towards the western coast, and to +content ourselves with such accommodations, as a way so little frequented +could afford. The journey was not formidable, for it was but of two +days, very unequally divided, because the only house, where we could be +entertained, was not further off than a third of the way. We soon came +to a high hill, which we mounted by a military road, cut in traverses, so +that as we went upon a higher stage, we saw the baggage following us +below in a contrary direction. To make this way, the rock has been hewn +to a level with labour that might have broken the perseverance of a Roman +legion. + +The country is totally denuded of its wood, but the stumps both of oaks +and firs, which are still found, shew that it has been once a forest of +large timber. I do not remember that we saw any animals, but we were +told that, in the mountains, there are stags, roebucks, goats and +rabbits. + +We did not perceive that this tract was possessed by human beings, except +that once we saw a corn field, in which a lady was walking with some +gentlemen. Their house was certainly at no great distance, but so +situated that we could not descry it. + +Passing on through the dreariness of solitude, we found a party of +soldiers from the fort, working on the road, under the superintendence of +a serjeant. We told them how kindly we had been treated at the garrison, +and as we were enjoying the benefit of their labours, begged leave to +shew our gratitude by a small present. + + + + +ANOCH + + +Early in the afternoon we came to Anoch, a village in Glenmollison of +three huts, one of which is distinguished by a chimney. Here we were to +dine and lodge, and were conducted through the first room, that had the +chimney, into another lighted by a small glass window. The landlord +attended us with great civility, and told us what he could give us to eat +and drink. I found some books on a shelf, among which were a volume or +more of Prideaux's Connection. + +This I mentioned as something unexpected, and perceived that I did not +please him. I praised the propriety of his language, and was answered +that I need not wonder, for he had learned it by grammar. + +By subsequent opportunities of observation, I found that my host's +diction had nothing peculiar. Those Highlanders that can speak English, +commonly speak it well, with few of the words, and little of the tone by +which a Scotchman is distinguished. Their language seems to have been +learned in the army or the navy, or by some communication with those who +could give them good examples of accent and pronunciation. By their +Lowland neighbours they would not willingly be taught; for they have long +considered them as a mean and degenerate race. These prejudices are +wearing fast away; but so much of them still remains, that when I asked a +very learned minister in the islands, which they considered as their most +savage clans: 'Those,' said he, 'that live next the Lowlands.' + +As we came hither early in the day, we had time sufficient to survey the +place. The house was built like other huts of loose stones, but the part +in which we dined and slept was lined with turf and wattled with twigs, +which kept the earth from falling. Near it was a garden of turnips and a +field of potatoes. It stands in a glen, or valley, pleasantly watered by +a winding river. But this country, however it may delight the gazer or +amuse the naturalist, is of no great advantage to its owners. Our +landlord told us of a gentleman, who possesses lands, eighteen Scotch +miles in length, and three in breadth; a space containing at least a +hundred square English miles. He has raised his rents, to the danger of +depopulating his farms, and he fells his timber, and by exerting every +art of augmentation, has obtained an yearly revenue of four hundred +pounds, which for a hundred square miles is three halfpence an acre. + +Some time after dinner we were surprised by the entrance of a young +woman, not inelegant either in mien or dress, who asked us whether we +would have tea. We found that she was the daughter of our host, and +desired her to make it. Her conversation, like her appearance, was +gentle and pleasing. We knew that the girls of the Highlands are all +gentlewomen, and treated her with great respect, which she received as +customary and due, and was neither elated by it, nor confused, but repaid +my civilities without embarassment, and told me how much I honoured her +country by coming to survey it. + +She had been at Inverness to gain the common female qualifications, and +had, like her father, the English pronunciation. I presented her with a +book, which I happened to have about me, and should not be pleased to +think that she forgets me. + +In the evening the soldiers, whom we had passed on the road, came to +spend at our inn the little money that we had given them. They had the +true military impatience of coin in their pockets, and had marched at +least six miles to find the first place where liquor could be bought. +Having never been before in a place so wild and unfrequented, I was glad +of their arrival, because I knew that we had made them friends, and to +gain still more of their good will, we went to them, where they were +carousing in the barn, and added something to our former gift. All that +we gave was not much, but it detained them in the barn, either merry or +quarrelling, the whole night, and in the morning they went back to their +work, with great indignation at the bad qualities of whisky. + +We had gained so much the favour of our host, that, when we left his +house in the morning, he walked by us a great way, and entertained us +with conversation both on his own condition, and that of the country. His +life seemed to be merely pastoral, except that he differed from some of +the ancient Nomades in having a settled dwelling. His wealth consists of +one hundred sheep, as many goats, twelve milk-cows, and twenty-eight +beeves ready for the drover. + +From him we first heard of the general dissatisfaction, which is now +driving the Highlanders into the other hemisphere; and when I asked him +whether they would stay at home, if they were well treated, he answered +with indignation, that no man willingly left his native country. Of the +farm, which he himself occupied, the rent had, in twenty-five years, been +advanced from five to twenty pounds, which he found himself so little +able to pay, that he would be glad to try his fortune in some other +place. Yet he owned the reasonableness of raising the Highland rents in +a certain degree, and declared himself willing to pay ten pounds for the +ground which he had formerly had for five. + +Our host having amused us for a time, resigned us to our guides. The +journey of this day was long, not that the distance was great, but that +the way was difficult. We were now in the bosom of the Highlands, with +full leisure to contemplate the appearance and properties of mountainous +regions, such as have been, in many countries, the last shelters of +national distress, and are every where the scenes of adventures, +stratagems, surprises and escapes. + +Mountainous countries are not passed but with difficulty, not merely from +the labour of climbing; for to climb is not always necessary: but because +that which is not mountain is commonly bog, through which the way must be +picked with caution. Where there are hills, there is much rain, and the +torrents pouring down into the intermediate spaces, seldom find so ready +an outlet, as not to stagnate, till they have broken the texture of the +ground. + +Of the hills, which our journey offered to the view on either side, we +did not take the height, nor did we see any that astonished us with their +loftiness. Towards the summit of one, there was a white spot, which I +should have called a naked rock, but the guides, who had better eyes, and +were acquainted with the phenomena of the country, declared it to be +snow. It had already lasted to the end of August, and was likely to +maintain its contest with the sun, till it should be reinforced by +winter. + +The height of mountains philosophically considered is properly computed +from the surface of the next sea; but as it affects the eye or +imagination of the passenger, as it makes either a spectacle or an +obstruction, it must be reckoned from the place where the rise begins to +make a considerable angle with the plain. In extensive continents the +land may, by gradual elevation, attain great height, without any other +appearance than that of a plane gently inclined, and if a hill placed +upon such raised ground be described, as having its altitude equal to the +whole space above the sea, the representation will be fallacious. + +These mountains may be properly enough measured from the inland base; for +it is not much above the sea. As we advanced at evening towards the +western coast, I did not observe the declivity to be greater than is +necessary for the discharge of the inland waters. + +We passed many rivers and rivulets, which commonly ran with a clear +shallow stream over a hard pebbly bottom. These channels, which seem so +much wider than the water that they convey would naturally require, are +formed by the violence of wintry floods, produced by the accumulation of +innumerable streams that fall in rainy weather from the hills, and +bursting away with resistless impetuosity, make themselves a passage +proportionate to their mass. + +Such capricious and temporary waters cannot be expected to produce many +fish. The rapidity of the wintry deluge sweeps them away, and the +scantiness of the summer stream would hardly sustain them above the +ground. This is the reason why in fording the northern rivers, no fishes +are seen, as in England, wandering in the water. + +Of the hills many may be called with Homer's Ida 'abundant in springs', +but few can deserve the epithet which he bestows upon Pelion by 'waving +their leaves.' They exhibit very little variety; being almost wholly +covered with dark heath, and even that seems to be checked in its growth. +What is not heath is nakedness, a little diversified by now and then a +stream rushing down the steep. An eye accustomed to flowery pastures and +waving harvests is astonished and repelled by this wide extent of +hopeless sterility. The appearance is that of matter incapable of form +or usefulness, dismissed by nature from her care and disinherited of her +favours, left in its original elemental state, or quickened only with one +sullen power of useless vegetation. + +It will very readily occur, that this uniformity of barrenness can afford +very little amusement to the traveller; that it is easy to sit at home +and conceive rocks and heath, and waterfalls; and that these journeys are +useless labours, which neither impregnate the imagination, nor enlarge +the understanding. It is true that of far the greater part of things, we +must content ourselves with such knowledge as description may exhibit, or +analogy supply; but it is true likewise, that these ideas are always +incomplete, and that at least, till we have compared them with realities, +we do not know them to be just. As we see more, we become possessed of +more certainties, and consequently gain more principles of reasoning, and +found a wider basis of analogy. + +Regions mountainous and wild, thinly inhabited, and little cultivated, +make a great part of the earth, and he that has never seen them, must +live unacquainted with much of the face of nature, and with one of the +great scenes of human existence. + +As the day advanced towards noon, we entered a narrow valley not very +flowery, but sufficiently verdant. Our guides told us, that the horses +could not travel all day without rest or meat, and intreated us to stop +here, because no grass would be found in any other place. The request +was reasonable and the argument cogent. We therefore willingly +dismounted and diverted ourselves as the place gave us opportunity. + +I sat down on a bank, such as a writer of Romance might have delighted to +feign. I had indeed no trees to whisper over my head, but a clear +rivulet streamed at my feet. The day was calm, the air soft, and all was +rudeness, silence, and solitude. Before me, and on either side, were +high hills, which by hindering the eye from ranging, forced the mind to +find entertainment for itself. Whether I spent the hour well I know not; +for here I first conceived the thought of this narration. + +We were in this place at ease and by choice, and had no evils to suffer +or to fear; yet the imaginations excited by the view of an unknown and +untravelled wilderness are not such as arise in the artificial solitude +of parks and gardens, a flattering notion of self-sufficiency, a placid +indulgence of voluntary delusions, a secure expansion of the fancy, or a +cool concentration of the mental powers. The phantoms which haunt a +desert are want, and misery, and danger; the evils of dereliction rush +upon the thoughts; man is made unwillingly acquainted with his own +weakness, and meditation shows him only how little he can sustain, and +how little he can perform. There were no traces of inhabitants, except +perhaps a rude pile of clods called a summer hut, in which a herdsman had +rested in the favourable seasons. Whoever had been in the place where I +then sat, unprovided with provisions and ignorant of the country, might, +at least before the roads were made, have wandered among the rocks, till +he had perished with hardship, before he could have found either food or +shelter. Yet what are these hillocks to the ridges of Taurus, or these +spots of wildness to the desarts of America? + +It was not long before we were invited to mount, and continued our +journey along the side of a lough, kept full by many streams, which with +more or less rapidity and noise, crossed the road from the hills on the +other hand. These currents, in their diminished state, after several dry +months, afford, to one who has always lived in level countries, an +unusual and delightful spectacle; but in the rainy season, such as every +winter may be expected to bring, must precipitate an impetuous and +tremendous flood. I suppose the way by which we went, is at that time +impassable. + + + + +GLENSHEALS + + +The lough at last ended in a river broad and shallow like the rest, but +that it may be passed when it is deeper, there is a bridge over it. +Beyond it is a valley called Glensheals, inhabited by the clan of Macrae. +Here we found a village called Auknasheals, consisting of many huts, +perhaps twenty, built all of dry-stone, that is, stones piled up without +mortar. + +We had, by the direction of the officers at Fort Augustus, taken bread +for ourselves, and tobacco for those Highlanders who might show us any +kindness. We were now at a place where we could obtain milk, but we must +have wanted bread if we had not brought it. The people of this valley +did not appear to know any English, and our guides now became doubly +necessary as interpreters. A woman, whose hut was distinguished by +greater spaciousness and better architecture, brought out some pails of +milk. The villagers gathered about us in considerable numbers, I believe +without any evil intention, but with a very savage wildness of aspect and +manner. When our meal was over, Mr. Boswell sliced the bread, and +divided it amongst them, as he supposed them never to have tasted a +wheaten loaf before. He then gave them little pieces of twisted tobacco, +and among the children we distributed a small handful of halfpence, which +they received with great eagerness. Yet I have been since told, that the +people of that valley are not indigent; and when we mentioned them +afterwards as needy and pitiable, a Highland lady let us know, that we +might spare our commiseration; for the dame whose milk we drank had +probably more than a dozen milk-cows. She seemed unwilling to take any +price, but being pressed to make a demand, at last named a shilling. +Honesty is not greater where elegance is less. One of the bystanders, as +we were told afterwards, advised her to ask for more, but she said a +shilling was enough. We gave her half a crown, and I hope got some +credit for our behaviour; for the company said, if our interpreters did +not flatter us, that they had not seen such a day since the old laird of +Macleod passed through their country. + +The Macraes, as we heard afterwards in the Hebrides, were originally an +indigent and subordinate clan, and having no farms nor stock, were in +great numbers servants to the Maclellans, who, in the war of Charles the +First, took arms at the call of the heroic Montrose, and were, in one of +his battles, almost all destroyed. The women that were left at home, +being thus deprived of their husbands, like the Scythian ladies of old, +married their servants, and the Macraes became a considerable race. + + + + +THE HIGHLANDS + + +As we continued our journey, we were at leisure to extend our +speculations, and to investigate the reason of those peculiarities by +which such rugged regions as these before us are generally distinguished. + +Mountainous countries commonly contain the original, at least the oldest +race of inhabitants, for they are not easily conquered, because they must +be entered by narrow ways, exposed to every power of mischief from those +that occupy the heights; and every new ridge is a new fortress, where the +defendants have again the same advantages. If the assailants either +force the strait, or storm the summit, they gain only so much ground; +their enemies are fled to take possession of the next rock, and the +pursuers stand at gaze, knowing neither where the ways of escape wind +among the steeps, nor where the bog has firmness to sustain them: besides +that, mountaineers have an agility in climbing and descending distinct +from strength or courage, and attainable only by use. + +If the war be not soon concluded, the invaders are dislodged by hunger; +for in those anxious and toilsome marches, provisions cannot easily be +carried, and are never to be found. The wealth of mountains is cattle, +which, while the men stand in the passes, the women drive away. Such +lands at last cannot repay the expence of conquest, and therefore perhaps +have not been so often invaded by the mere ambition of dominion; as by +resentment of robberies and insults, or the desire of enjoying in +security the more fruitful provinces. + +As mountains are long before they are conquered, they are likewise long +before they are civilized. Men are softened by intercourse mutually +profitable, and instructed by comparing their own notions with those of +others. Thus Caesar found the maritime parts of Britain made less +barbarous by their commerce with the Gauls. Into a barren and rough +tract no stranger is brought either by the hope of gain or of pleasure. +The inhabitants having neither commodities for sale, nor money for +purchase, seldom visit more polished places, or if they do visit them, +seldom return. + +It sometimes happens that by conquest, intermixture, or gradual +refinement, the cultivated parts of a country change their language. The +mountaineers then become a distinct nation, cut off by dissimilitude of +speech from conversation with their neighbours. Thus in Biscay, the +original Cantabrian, and in Dalecarlia, the old Swedish still subsists. +Thus Wales and the Highlands speak the tongue of the first inhabitants of +Britain, while the other parts have received first the Saxon, and in some +degree afterwards the French, and then formed a third language between +them. + +That the primitive manners are continued where the primitive language is +spoken, no nation will desire me to suppose, for the manners of +mountaineers are commonly savage, but they are rather produced by their +situation than derived from their ancestors. + +Such seems to be the disposition of man, that whatever makes a +distinction produces rivalry. England, before other causes of enmity +were found, was disturbed for some centuries by the contests of the +northern and southern counties; so that at Oxford, the peace of study +could for a long time be preserved only by chusing annually one of the +Proctors from each side of the Trent. A tract intersected by many ridges +of mountains, naturally divides its inhabitants into petty nations, which +are made by a thousand causes enemies to each other. Each will exalt its +own chiefs, each will boast the valour of its men, or the beauty of its +women, and every claim of superiority irritates competition; injuries +will sometimes be done, and be more injuriously defended; retaliation +will sometimes be attempted, and the debt exacted with too much interest. + +In the Highlands it was a law, that if a robber was sheltered from +justice, any man of the same clan might be taken in his place. This was +a kind of irregular justice, which, though necessary in savage times, +could hardly fail to end in a feud, and a feud once kindled among an idle +people with no variety of pursuits to divert their thoughts, burnt on for +ages either sullenly glowing in secret mischief, or openly blazing into +public violence. Of the effects of this violent judicature, there are +not wanting memorials. The cave is now to be seen to which one of the +Campbells, who had injured the Macdonalds, retired with a body of his own +clan. The Macdonalds required the offender, and being refused, made a +fire at the mouth of the cave, by which he and his adherents were +suffocated together. + +Mountaineers are warlike, because by their feuds and competitions they +consider themselves as surrounded with enemies, and are always prepared +to repel incursions, or to make them. Like the Greeks in their +unpolished state, described by Thucydides, the Highlanders, till lately, +went always armed, and carried their weapons to visits, and to church. + +Mountaineers are thievish, because they are poor, and having neither +manufactures nor commerce, can grow richer only by robbery. They +regularly plunder their neighbours, for their neighbours are commonly +their enemies; and having lost that reverence for property, by which the +order of civil life is preserved, soon consider all as enemies, whom they +do not reckon as friends, and think themselves licensed to invade +whatever they are not obliged to protect. + +By a strict administration of the laws, since the laws have been +introduced into the Highlands, this disposition to thievery is very much +represt. Thirty years ago no herd had ever been conducted through the +mountains, without paying tribute in the night, to some of the clans; but +cattle are now driven, and passengers travel without danger, fear, or +molestation. + +Among a warlike people, the quality of highest esteem is personal +courage, and with the ostentatious display of courage are closely +connected promptitude of offence and quickness of resentment. The +Highlanders, before they were disarmed, were so addicted to quarrels, +that the boys used to follow any publick procession or ceremony, however +festive, or however solemn, in expectation of the battle, which was sure +to happen before the company dispersed. + +Mountainous regions are sometimes so remote from the seat of government, +and so difficult of access, that they are very little under the influence +of the sovereign, or within the reach of national justice. Law is +nothing without power; and the sentence of a distant court could not be +easily executed, nor perhaps very safely promulgated, among men +ignorantly proud and habitually violent, unconnected with the general +system, and accustomed to reverence only their own lords. It has +therefore been necessary to erect many particular jurisdictions, and +commit the punishment of crimes, and the decision of right to the +proprietors of the country who could enforce their own decrees. It +immediately appears that such judges will be often ignorant, and often +partial; but in the immaturity of political establishments no better +expedient could be found. As government advances towards perfection, +provincial judicature is perhaps in every empire gradually abolished. + +Those who had thus the dispensation of law, were by consequence +themselves lawless. Their vassals had no shelter from outrages and +oppressions; but were condemned to endure, without resistance, the +caprices of wantonness, and the rage of cruelty. + +In the Highlands, some great lords had an hereditary jurisdiction over +counties; and some chieftains over their own lands; till the final +conquest of the Highlands afforded an opportunity of crushing all the +local courts, and of extending the general benefits of equal law to the +low and the high, in the deepest recesses and obscurest corners. + +While the chiefs had this resemblance of royalty, they had little +inclination to appeal, on any question, to superior judicatures. A claim +of lands between two powerful lairds was decided like a contest for +dominion between sovereign powers. They drew their forces into the +field, and right attended on the strongest. This was, in ruder times, +the common practice, which the kings of Scotland could seldom control. + +Even so lately as in the last years of King William, a battle was fought +at Mull Roy, on a plain a few miles to the south of Inverness, between +the clans of Mackintosh and Macdonald of Keppoch. Col. Macdonald, the +head of a small clan, refused to pay the dues demanded from him by +Mackintosh, as his superior lord. They disdained the interposition of +judges and laws, and calling each his followers to maintain the dignity +of the clan, fought a formal battle, in which several considerable men +fell on the side of Mackintosh, without a complete victory to either. +This is said to have been the last open war made between the clans by +their own authority. + +The Highland lords made treaties, and formed alliances, of which some +traces may still be found, and some consequences still remain as lasting +evidences of petty regality. The terms of one of these confederacies +were, that each should support the other in the right, or in the wrong, +except against the king. + +The inhabitants of mountains form distinct races, and are careful to +preserve their genealogies. Men in a small district necessarily mingle +blood by intermarriages, and combine at last into one family, with a +common interest in the honour and disgrace of every individual. Then +begins that union of affections, and co-operation of endeavours, that +constitute a clan. They who consider themselves as ennobled by their +family, will think highly of their progenitors, and they who through +successive generations live always together in the same place, will +preserve local stories and hereditary prejudices. Thus every Highlander +can talk of his ancestors, and recount the outrages which they suffered +from the wicked inhabitants of the next valley. + +Such are the effects of habitation among mountains, and such were the +qualities of the Highlanders, while their rocks secluded them from the +rest of mankind, and kept them an unaltered and discriminated race. They +are now losing their distinction, and hastening to mingle with the +general community. + + + + +GLENELG + + +We left Auknasheals and the Macraes its the afternoon, and in the evening +came to Ratiken, a high hill on which a road is cut, but so steep and +narrow, that it is very difficult. There is now a design of making +another way round the bottom. Upon one of the precipices, my horse, +weary with the steepness of the rise, staggered a little, and I called in +haste to the Highlander to hold him. This was the only moment of my +journey, in which I thought myself endangered. + +Having surmounted the hill at last, we were told that at Glenelg, on the +sea-side, we should come to a house of lime and slate and glass. This +image of magnificence raised our expectation. At last we came to our inn +weary and peevish, and began to inquire for meat and beds. + +Of the provisions the negative catalogue was very copious. Here was no +meat, no milk, no bread, no eggs, no wine. We did not express much +satisfaction. Here however we were to stay. Whisky we might have, and I +believe at last they caught a fowl and killed it. We had some bread, and +with that we prepared ourselves to be contented, when we had a very +eminent proof of Highland hospitality. Along some miles of the way, in +the evening, a gentleman's servant had kept us company on foot with very +little notice on our part. He left us near Glenelg, and we thought on +him no more till he came to us again, in about two hours, with a present +from his master of rum and sugar. The man had mentioned his company, and +the gentleman, whose name, I think, is Gordon, well knowing the penury of +the place, had this attention to two men, whose names perhaps he had not +heard, by whom his kindness was not likely to be ever repaid, and who +could be recommended to him only by their necessities. + +We were now to examine our lodging. Out of one of the beds, on which we +were to repose, started up, at our entrance, a man black as a Cyclops +from the forge. Other circumstances of no elegant recital concurred to +disgust us. We had been frighted by a lady at Edinburgh, with +discouraging representations of Highland lodgings. Sleep, however, was +necessary. Our Highlanders had at last found some hay, with which the +inn could not supply them. I directed them to bring a bundle into the +room, and slept upon it in my riding coat. Mr. Boswell being more +delicate, laid himself sheets with hay over and under him, and lay in +linen like a gentleman. + + + + +SKY. ARMIDEL + + +In the morning, September the second, we found ourselves on the edge of +the sea. Having procured a boat, we dismissed our Highlanders, whom I +would recommend to the service of any future travellers, and were ferried +over to the Isle of Sky. We landed at Armidel, where we were met on the +sands by Sir Alexander Macdonald, who was at that time there with his +lady, preparing to leave the island and reside at Edinburgh. + +Armidel is a neat house, built where the Macdonalds had once a seat, +which was burnt in the commotions that followed the Revolution. The +walled orchard, which belonged to the former house, still remains. It is +well shaded by tall ash trees, of a species, as Mr. Janes the fossilist +informed me, uncommonly valuable. This plantation is very properly +mentioned by Dr. Campbell, in his new account of the state of Britain, +and deserves attention; because it proves that the present nakedness of +the Hebrides is not wholly the fault of Nature. + +As we sat at Sir Alexander's table, we were entertained, according to the +ancient usage of the North, with the melody of the bagpipe. Everything +in those countries has its history. As the bagpiper was playing, an +elderly Gentleman informed us, that in some remote time, the Macdonalds +of Glengary having been injured, or offended by the inhabitants of +Culloden, and resolving to have justice or vengeance, came to Culloden on +a Sunday, where finding their enemies at worship, they shut them up in +the church, which they set on fire; and this, said he, is the tune that +the piper played while they were burning. + +Narrations like this, however uncertain, deserve the notice of the +traveller, because they are the only records of a nation that has no +historians, and afford the most genuine representation of the life and +character of the ancient Highlanders. + +Under the denomination of Highlander are comprehended in Scotland all +that now speak the Erse language, or retain the primitive manners, +whether they live among the mountains or in the islands; and in that +sense I use the name, when there is not some apparent reason for making a +distinction. + +In Sky I first observed the use of Brogues, a kind of artless shoes, +stitched with thongs so loosely, that though they defend the foot from +stones, they do not exclude water. Brogues were formerly made of raw +hides, with the hair inwards, and such are perhaps still used in rude and +remote parts; but they are said not to last above two days. Where life +is somewhat improved, they are now made of leather tanned with oak bark, +as in other places, or with the bark of birch, or roots of tormentil, a +substance recommended in defect of bark, about forty years ago, to the +Irish tanners, by one to whom the parliament of that kingdom voted a +reward. The leather of Sky is not completely penetrated by vegetable +matter, and therefore cannot be very durable. + +My inquiries about brogues, gave me an early specimen of Highland +information. One day I was told, that to make brogues was a domestick +art, which every man practised for himself, and that a pair of brogues +was the work of an hour. I supposed that the husband made brogues as the +wife made an apron, till next day it was told me, that a brogue-maker was +a trade, and that a pair would cost half a crown. It will easily occur +that these representations may both be true, and that, in some places, +men may buy them, and in others, make them for themselves; but I had both +the accounts in the same house within two days. + +Many of my subsequent inquiries upon more interesting topicks ended in +the like uncertainty. He that travels in the Highlands may easily +saturate his soul with intelligence, if he will acquiesce in the first +account. The Highlander gives to every question an answer so prompt and +peremptory, that skepticism itself is dared into silence, and the mind +sinks before the bold reporter in unresisting credulity; but, if a second +question be ventured, it breaks the enchantment; for it is immediately +discovered, that what was told so confidently was told at hazard, and +that such fearlessness of assertion was either the sport of negligence, +or the refuge of ignorance. + +If individuals are thus at variance with themselves, it can be no wonder +that the accounts of different men are contradictory. The traditions of +an ignorant and savage people have been for ages negligently heard, and +unskilfully related. Distant events must have been mingled together, and +the actions of one man given to another. These, however, are +deficiencies in story, for which no man is now to be censured. It were +enough, if what there is yet opportunity of examining were accurately +inspected, and justly represented; but such is the laxity of Highland +conversation, that the inquirer is kept in continual suspense, and by a +kind of intellectual retrogradation, knows less as he hears more. + +In the islands the plaid is rarely worn. The law by which the +Highlanders have been obliged to change the form of their dress, has, in +all the places that we have visited, been universally obeyed. I have +seen only one gentleman completely clothed in the ancient habit, and by +him it was worn only occasionally and wantonly. The common people do not +think themselves under any legal necessity of having coats; for they say +that the law against plaids was made by Lord Hardwicke, and was in force +only for his life: but the same poverty that made it then difficult for +them to change their clothing, hinders them now from changing it again. + +The fillibeg, or lower garment, is still very common, and the bonnet +almost universal; but their attire is such as produces, in a sufficient +degree, the effect intended by the law, of abolishing the dissimilitude +of appearance between the Highlanders and the other inhabitants of +Britain; and, if dress be supposed to have much influence, facilitates +their coalition with their fellow-subjects. + +What we have long used we naturally like, and therefore the Highlanders +were unwilling to lay aside their plaid, which yet to an unprejudiced +spectator must appear an incommodious and cumbersome dress; for hanging +loose upon the body, it must flutter in a quick motion, or require one of +the hands to keep it close. The Romans always laid aside the gown when +they had anything to do. It was a dress so unsuitable to war, that the +same word which signified a gown signified peace. The chief use of a +plaid seems to be this, that they could commodiously wrap themselves in +it, when they were obliged to sleep without a better cover. + +In our passage from Scotland to Sky, we were wet for the first time with +a shower. This was the beginning of the Highland winter, after which we +were told that a succession of three dry days was not to be expected for +many months. The winter of the Hebrides consists of little more than +rain and wind. As they are surrounded by an ocean never frozen, the +blasts that come to them over the water are too much softened to have the +power of congelation. The salt loughs, or inlets of the sea, which shoot +very far into the island, never have any ice upon them, and the pools of +fresh water will never bear the walker. The snow that sometimes falls, +is soon dissolved by the air, or the rain. + +This is not the description of a cruel climate, yet the dark months are +here a time of great distress; because the summer can do little more than +feed itself, and winter comes with its cold and its scarcity upon +families very slenderly provided. + + + + +CORIATACHAN IN SKY + + +The third or fourth day after our arrival at Armidel, brought us an +invitation to the isle of Raasay, which lies east of Sky. It is +incredible how soon the account of any event is propagated in these +narrow countries by the love of talk, which much leisure produces, and +the relief given to the mind in the penury of insular conversation by a +new topick. The arrival of strangers at a place so rarely visited, +excites rumour, and quickens curiosity. I know not whether we touched at +any corner, where Fame had not already prepared us a reception. + +To gain a commodious passage to Raasay, it was necessary to pass over a +large part of Sky. We were furnished therefore with horses and a guide. +In the Islands there are no roads, nor any marks by which a stranger may +find his way. The horseman has always at his side a native of the place, +who, by pursuing game, or tending cattle, or being often employed in +messages or conduct, has learned where the ridge of the hill has breadth +sufficient to allow a horse and his rider a passage, and where the moss +or bog is hard enough to bear them. The bogs are avoided as toilsome at +least, if not unsafe, and therefore the journey is made generally from +precipice to precipice; from which if the eye ventures to look down, it +sees below a gloomy cavity, whence the rush of water is sometimes heard. + +But there seems to be in all this more alarm than danger. The Highlander +walks carefully before, and the horse, accustomed to the ground, follows +him with little deviation. Sometimes the hill is too steep for the +horseman to keep his seat, and sometimes the moss is too tremulous to +bear the double weight of horse and man. The rider then dismounts, and +all shift as they can. + +Journies made in this manner are rather tedious than long. A very few +miles require several hours. From Armidel we came at night to +Coriatachan, a house very pleasantly situated between two brooks, with +one of the highest hills of the island behind it. It is the residence of +Mr. Mackinnon, by whom we were treated with very liberal hospitality, +among a more numerous and elegant company than it could have been +supposed easy to collect. + +The hill behind the house we did not climb. The weather was rough, and +the height and steepness discouraged us. We were told that there is a +cairne upon it. A cairne is a heap of stones thrown upon the grave of +one eminent for dignity of birth, or splendour of atchievements. It is +said that by digging, an urn is always found under these cairnes: they +must therefore have been thus piled by a people whose custom was to burn +the dead. To pile stones is, I believe, a northern custom, and to burn +the body was the Roman practice; nor do I know when it was that these two +acts of sepulture were united. + +The weather was next day too violent for the continuation of our journey; +but we had no reason to complain of the interruption. We saw in every +place, what we chiefly desired to know, the manners of the people. We +had company, and, if we had chosen retirement, we might have had books. + +I never was in any house of the Islands, where I did not find books in +more languages than one, if I staid long enough to want them, except one +from which the family was removed. Literature is not neglected by the +higher rank of the Hebridians. + +It need not, I suppose, be mentioned, that in countries so little +frequented as the Islands, there are no houses where travellers are +entertained for money. He that wanders about these wilds, either +procures recommendations to those whose habitations lie near his way, or, +when night and weariness come upon him, takes the chance of general +hospitality. If he finds only a cottage, he can expect little more than +shelter; for the cottagers have little more for themselves: but if his +good fortune brings him to the residence of a gentleman, he will be glad +of a storm to prolong his stay. There is, however, one inn by the sea- +side at Sconsor, in Sky, where the post-office is kept. + +At the tables where a stranger is received, neither plenty nor delicacy +is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited, must have much wild- +fowl; and I scarcely remember to have seen a dinner without them. The +moorgame is every where to be had. That the sea abounds with fish, needs +not be told, for it supplies a great part of Europe. The Isle of Sky has +stags and roebucks, but no hares. They sell very numerous droves of oxen +yearly to England, and therefore cannot be supposed to want beef at home. +Sheep and goats are in great numbers, and they have the common domestick +fowls. + +But as here is nothing to be bought, every family must kill its own meat, +and roast part of it somewhat sooner than Apicius would prescribe. Every +kind of flesh is undoubtedly excelled by the variety and emulation of +English markets; but that which is not best may be yet very far from bad, +and he that shall complain of his fare in the Hebrides, has improved his +delicacy more than his manhood. + +Their fowls are not like those plumped for sale by the poulterers of +London, but they are as good as other places commonly afford, except that +the geese, by feeding in the sea, have universally a fishy rankness. + +These geese seem to be of a middle race, between the wild and domestick +kinds. They are so tame as to own a home, and so wild as sometimes to +fly quite away. + +Their native bread is made of oats, or barley. Of oatmeal they spread +very thin cakes, coarse and hard, to which unaccustomed palates are not +easily reconciled. The barley cakes are thicker and softer; I began to +eat them without unwillingness; the blackness of their colour raises some +dislike, but the taste is not disagreeable. In most houses there is +wheat flower, with which we were sure to be treated, if we staid long +enough to have it kneaded and baked. As neither yeast nor leaven are +used among them, their bread of every kind is unfermented. They make +only cakes, and never mould a loaf. + +A man of the Hebrides, for of the women's diet I can give no account, as +soon as he appears in the morning, swallows a glass of whisky; yet they +are not a drunken race, at least I never was present at much +intemperance; but no man is so abstemious as to refuse the morning dram, +which they call a skalk. + +The word whisky signifies water, and is applied by way of eminence to +strong water, or distilled liquor. The spirit drunk in the North is +drawn from barley. I never tasted it, except once for experiment at the +inn in Inverary, when I thought it preferable to any English malt brandy. +It was strong, but not pungent, and was free from the empyreumatick taste +or smell. What was the process I had no opportunity of inquiring, nor do +I wish to improve the art of making poison pleasant. + +Not long after the dram, may be expected the breakfast, a meal in which +the Scots, whether of the lowlands or mountains, must be confessed to +excel us. The tea and coffee are accompanied not only with butter, but +with honey, conserves, and marmalades. If an epicure could remove by a +wish, in quest of sensual gratifications, wherever he had supped he would +breakfast in Scotland. + +In the islands however, they do what I found it not very easy to endure. +They pollute the tea-table by plates piled with large slices of cheshire +cheese, which mingles its less grateful odours with the fragrance of the +tea. + +Where many questions are to be asked, some will be omitted. I forgot to +inquire how they were supplied with so much exotic luxury. Perhaps the +French may bring them wine for wool, and the Dutch give them tea and +coffee at the fishing season, in exchange for fresh provision. Their +trade is unconstrained; they pay no customs, for there is no officer to +demand them; whatever therefore is made dear only by impost, is obtained +here at an easy rate. + +A dinner in the Western Islands differs very little from a dinner in +England, except that in the place of tarts, there are always set +different preparations of milk. This part of their diet will admit some +improvement. Though they have milk, and eggs, and sugar, few of them +know how to compound them in a custard. Their gardens afford them no +great variety, but they have always some vegetables on the table. +Potatoes at least are never wanting, which, though they have not known +them long, are now one of the principal parts of their food. They are +not of the mealy, but the viscous kind. + +Their more elaborate cookery, or made dishes, an Englishman at the first +taste is not likely to approve, but the culinary compositions of every +country are often such as become grateful to other nations only by +degrees; though I have read a French author, who, in the elation of his +heart, says, that French cookery pleases all foreigners, but foreign +cookery never satisfies a Frenchman. + +Their suppers are, like their dinners, various and plentiful. The table +is always covered with elegant linen. Their plates for common use are +often of that kind of manufacture which is called cream coloured, or +queen's ware. They use silver on all occasions where it is common in +England, nor did I ever find the spoon of horn, but in one house. + +The knives are not often either very bright, or very sharp. They are +indeed instruments of which the Highlanders have not been long acquainted +with the general use. They were not regularly laid on the table, before +the prohibition of arms, and the change of dress. Thirty years ago the +Highlander wore his knife as a companion to his dirk or dagger, and when +the company sat down to meat, the men who had knives, cut the flesh into +small pieces for the women, who with their fingers conveyed it to their +mouths. + +There was perhaps never any change of national manners so quick, so +great, and so general, as that which has operated in the Highlands, by +the last conquest, and the subsequent laws. We came thither too late to +see what we expected, a people of peculiar appearance, and a system of +antiquated life. The clans retain little now of their original +character, their ferocity of temper is softened, their military ardour is +extinguished, their dignity of independence is depressed, their contempt +of government subdued, and the reverence for their chiefs abated. Of +what they had before the late conquest of their country, there remain +only their language and their poverty. Their language is attacked on +every side. Schools are erected, in which English only is taught, and +there were lately some who thought it reasonable to refuse them a version +of the holy scriptures, that they might have no monument of their mother- +tongue. + +That their poverty is gradually abated, cannot be mentioned among the +unpleasing consequences of subjection. They are now acquainted with +money, and the possibility of gain will by degrees make them industrious. +Such is the effect of the late regulations, that a longer journey than to +the Highlands must be taken by him whose curiosity pants for savage +virtues and barbarous grandeur. + + + + +RAASAY + + +At the first intermission of the stormy weather we were informed, that +the boat, which was to convey us to Raasay, attended us on the coast. We +had from this time our intelligence facilitated, and our conversation +enlarged, by the company of Mr. Macqueen, minister of a parish in Sky, +whose knowledge and politeness give him a title equally to kindness and +respect, and who, from this time, never forsook us till we were preparing +to leave Sky, and the adjacent places. + +The boat was under the direction of Mr. Malcolm Macleod, a gentleman of +Raasay. The water was calm, and the rowers were vigorous; so that our +passage was quick and pleasant. When we came near the island, we saw the +laird's house, a neat modern fabrick, and found Mr. Macleod, the +proprietor of the Island, with many gentlemen, expecting us on the beach. +We had, as at all other places, some difficulty in landing. The craggs +were irregularly broken, and a false step would have been very +mischievous. + +It seemed that the rocks might, with no great labour, have been hewn +almost into a regular flight of steps; and as there are no other landing +places, I considered this rugged ascent as the consequence of a form of +life inured to hardships, and therefore not studious of nice +accommodations. But I know not whether, for many ages, it was not +considered as a part of military policy, to keep the country not easily +accessible. The rocks are natural fortifications, and an enemy climbing +with difficulty, was easily destroyed by those who stood high above him. + +Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility, +elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments, and the usual +conversation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off +the floor; the musician was called, and the whole company was invited to +dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater alacrity. The general air +of festivity, which predominated in this place, so far remote from all +those regions which the mind has been used to contemplate as the mansions +of pleasure, struck the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous +to that which is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light. + +When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six and thirty persons sat +down to two tables in the same room. After supper the ladies sung Erse +songs, to which I listened as an English audience to an Italian opera, +delighted with the sound of words which I did not understand. + +I inquired the subjects of the songs, and was told of one, that it was a +love song, and of another, that it was a farewell composed by one of the +Islanders that was going, in this epidemical fury of emigration, to seek +his fortune in America. What sentiments would arise, on such an +occasion, in the heart of one who had not been taught to lament by +precedent, I should gladly have known; but the lady, by whom I sat, +thought herself not equal to the work of translating. + +Mr. Macleod is the proprietor of the islands of Raasay, Rona, and Fladda, +and possesses an extensive district in Sky. The estate has not, during +four hundred years, gained or lost a single acre. He acknowledges +Macleod of Dunvegan as his chief, though his ancestors have formerly +disputed the pre-eminence. + +One of the old Highland alliances has continued for two hundred years, +and is still subsisting between Macleod of Raasay and Macdonald of Sky, +in consequence of which, the survivor always inherits the arms of the +deceased; a natural memorial of military friendship. At the death of the +late Sir James Macdonald, his sword was delivered to the present laird of +Raasay. + +The family of Raasay consists of the laird, the lady, three sons and ten +daughters. For the sons there is a tutor in the house, and the lady is +said to be very skilful and diligent in the education of her girls. More +gentleness of manners, or a more pleasing appearance of domestick +society, is not found in the most polished countries. + +Raasay is the only inhabited island in Mr. Macleod's possession. Rona +and Fladda afford only pasture for cattle, of which one hundred and sixty +winter in Rona, under the superintendence of a solitary herdsman. + +The length of Raasay is, by computation, fifteen miles, and the breadth +two. These countries have never been measured, and the computation by +miles is negligent and arbitrary. We observed in travelling, that the +nominal and real distance of places had very little relation to each +other. Raasay probably contains near a hundred square miles. It affords +not much ground, notwithstanding its extent, either for tillage, or +pasture; for it is rough, rocky, and barren. The cattle often perish by +falling from the precipices. It is like the other islands, I think, +generally naked of shade, but it is naked by neglect; for the laird has +an orchard, and very large forest trees grow about his house. Like other +hilly countries it has many rivulets. One of the brooks turns a corn- +mill, and at least one produces trouts. + +In the streams or fresh lakes of the Islands, I have never heard of any +other fish than trouts and eels. The trouts, which I have seen, are not +large; the colour of their flesh is tinged as in England. Of their eels +I can give no account, having never tasted them; for I believe they are +not considered as wholesome food. + +It is not very easy to fix the principles upon which mankind have agreed +to eat some animals, and reject others; and as the principle is not +evident, it is not uniform. That which is selected as delicate in one +country, is by its neighbours abhorred as loathsome. The Neapolitans +lately refused to eat potatoes in a famine. An Englishman is not easily +persuaded to dine on snails with an Italian, on frogs with a Frenchman, +or on horseflesh with a Tartar. The vulgar inhabitants of Sky, I know +not whether of the other islands, have not only eels, but pork and bacon +in abhorrence, and accordingly I never saw a hog in the Hebrides, except +one at Dunvegan. + +Raasay has wild fowl in abundance, but neither deer, hares, nor rabbits. +Why it has them not, might be asked, but that of such questions there is +no end. Why does any nation want what it might have? Why are not spices +transplanted to America? Why does tea continue to be brought from China? +Life improves but by slow degrees, and much in every place is yet to do. +Attempts have been made to raise roebucks in Raasay, but without effect. +The young ones it is extremely difficult to rear, and the old can very +seldom be taken alive. + +Hares and rabbits might be more easily obtained. That they have few or +none of either in Sky, they impute to the ravage of the foxes, and have +therefore set, for some years past, a price upon their heads, which, as +the number was diminished, has been gradually raised, from three +shillings and sixpence to a guinea, a sum so great in this part of the +world, that, in a short time, Sky may be as free from foxes, as England +from wolves. The fund for these rewards is a tax of sixpence in the +pound, imposed by the farmers on themselves, and said to be paid with +great willingness. + +The beasts of prey in the Islands are foxes, otters, and weasels. The +foxes are bigger than those of England; but the otters exceed ours in a +far greater proportion. I saw one at Armidel, of a size much beyond that +which I supposed them ever to attain; and Mr. Maclean, the heir of Col, a +man of middle stature, informed me that he once shot an otter, of which +the tail reached the ground, when he held up the head to a level with his +own. I expected the otter to have a foot particularly formed for the art +of swimming; but upon examination, I did not find it differing much from +that of a spaniel. As he preys in the sea, he does little visible +mischief, and is killed only for his fur. White otters are sometimes +seen. + +In Raasay they might have hares and rabbits, for they have no foxes. Some +depredations, such as were never made before, have caused a suspicion +that a fox has been lately landed in the Island by spite or wantonness. +This imaginary stranger has never yet been seen, and therefore, perhaps, +the mischief was done by some other animal. It is not likely that a +creature so ungentle, whose head could have been sold in Sky for a +guinea, should be kept alive only to gratify the malice of sending him to +prey upon a neighbour: and the passage from Sky is wider than a fox would +venture to swim, unless he were chased by dogs into the sea, and perhaps +than his strength would enable him to cross. How beasts of prey came +into any islands is not easy to guess. In cold countries they take +advantage of hard winters, and travel over the ice: but this is a very +scanty solution; for they are found where they have no discoverable means +of coming. + +The corn of this island is but little. I saw the harvest of a small +field. The women reaped the Corn, and the men bound up the sheaves. The +strokes of the sickle were timed by the modulation of the harvest song, +in which all their voices were united. They accompany in the Highlands +every action, which can be done in equal time, with an appropriated +strain, which has, they say, not much meaning; but its effects are +regularity and cheerfulness. The ancient proceleusmatick song, by which +the rowers of gallies were animated, may be supposed to have been of this +kind. There is now an oar-song used by the Hebridians. + +The ground of Raasay seems fitter for cattle than for corn, and of black +cattle I suppose the number is very great. The Laird himself keeps a +herd of four hundred, one hundred of which are annually sold. Of an +extensive domain, which he holds in his own hands, he considers the sale +of cattle as repaying him the rent, and supports the plenty of a very +liberal table with the remaining product. + +Raasay is supposed to have been very long inhabited. On one side of it +they show caves, into which the rude nations of the first ages retreated +from the weather. These dreary vaults might have had other uses. There +is still a cavity near the house called the oar-cave, in which the +seamen, after one of those piratical expeditions, which in rougher times +were very frequent, used, as tradition tells, to hide their oars. This +hollow was near the sea, that nothing so necessary might be far to be +fetched; and it was secret, that enemies, if they landed, could find +nothing. Yet it is not very evident of what use it was to hide their +oars from those, who, if they were masters of the coast, could take away +their boats. + +A proof much stronger of the distance at which the first possessors of +this island lived from the present time, is afforded by the stone heads +of arrows which are very frequently picked up. The people call them Elf- +bolts, and believe that the fairies shoot them at the cattle. They +nearly resemble those which Mr. Banks has lately brought from the savage +countries in the Pacifick Ocean, and must have been made by a nation to +which the use of metals was unknown. + +The number of this little community has never been counted by its ruler, +nor have I obtained any positive account, consistent with the result of +political computation. Not many years ago, the late Laird led out one +hundred men upon a military expedition. The sixth part of a people is +supposed capable of bearing arms: Raasay had therefore six hundred +inhabitants. But because it is not likely, that every man able to serve +in the field would follow the summons, or that the chief would leave his +lands totally defenceless, or take away all the hands qualified for +labour, let it be supposed, that half as many might be permitted to stay +at home. The whole number will then be nine hundred, or nine to a square +mile; a degree of populousness greater than those tracts of desolation +can often show. They are content with their country, and faithful to +their chiefs, and yet uninfected with the fever of migration. + +Near the house, at Raasay, is a chapel unroofed and ruinous, which has +long been used only as a place of burial. About the churches, in the +Islands, are small squares inclosed with stone, which belong to +particular families, as repositories for the dead. At Raasay there is +one, I think, for the proprietor, and one for some collateral house. + +It is told by Martin, that at the death of the Lady of the Island, it has +been here the custom to erect a cross. This we found not to be true. The +stones that stand about the chapel at a small distance, some of which +perhaps have crosses cut upon them, are believed to have been not funeral +monuments, but the ancient boundaries of the sanctuary or consecrated +ground. + +Martin was a man not illiterate: he was an inhabitant of Sky, and +therefore was within reach of intelligence, and with no great difficulty +might have visited the places which he undertakes to describe; yet with +all his opportunities, he has often suffered himself to be deceived. He +lived in the last century, when the chiefs of the clans had lost little +of their original influence. The mountains were yet unpenetrated, no +inlet was opened to foreign novelties, and the feudal institution +operated upon life with their full force. He might therefore have +displayed a series of subordination and a form of government, which, in +more luminous and improved regions, have been long forgotten, and have +delighted his readers with many uncouth customs that are now disused, and +wild opinions that prevail no longer. But he probably had not knowledge +of the world sufficient to qualify him for judging what would deserve or +gain the attention of mankind. The mode of life which was familiar to +himself, he did not suppose unknown to others, nor imagined that he could +give pleasure by telling that of which it was, in his little country, +impossible to be ignorant. + +What he has neglected cannot now be performed. In nations, where there +is hardly the use of letters, what is once out of sight is lost for ever. +They think but little, and of their few thoughts, none are wasted on the +past, in which they are neither interested by fear nor hope. Their only +registers are stated observances and practical representations. For this +reason an age of ignorance is an age of ceremony. Pageants, and +processions, and commemorations, gradually shrink away, as better methods +come into use of recording events, and preserving rights. + +It is not only in Raasay that the chapel is unroofed and useless; through +the few islands which we visited, we neither saw nor heard of any house +of prayer, except in Sky, that was not in ruins. The malignant influence +of Calvinism has blasted ceremony and decency together; and if the +remembrance of papal superstition is obliterated, the monuments of papal +piety are likewise effaced. + +It has been, for many years, popular to talk of the lazy devotion of the +Romish clergy; over the sleepy laziness of men that erected churches, we +may indulge our superiority with a new triumph, by comparing it with the +fervid activity of those who suffer them to fall. + +Of the destruction of churches, the decay of religion must in time be the +consequence; for while the publick acts of the ministry are now performed +in houses, a very small number can be present; and as the greater part of +the Islanders make no use of books, all must necessarily live in total +ignorance who want the opportunity of vocal instruction. + +From these remains of ancient sanctity, which are every where to be +found, it has been conjectured, that, for the last two centuries, the +inhabitants of the Islands have decreased in number. This argument, +which supposes that the churches have been suffered to fall, only because +they were no longer necessary, would have some force, if the houses of +worship still remaining were sufficient for the people. But since they +have now no churches at all, these venerable fragments do not prove the +people of former times to have been more numerous, but to have been more +devout. If the inhabitants were doubled with their present principles, +it appears not that any provision for publick worship would be made. +Where the religion of a country enforces consecrated buildings, the +number of those buildings may be supposed to afford some indication, +however uncertain, of the populousness of the place; but where by a +change of manners a nation is contented to live without them, their decay +implies no diminution of inhabitants. + +Some of these dilapidations are said to be found in islands now +uninhabited; but I doubt whether we can thence infer that they were ever +peopled. The religion of the middle age, is well known to have placed +too much hope in lonely austerities. Voluntary solitude was the great +act of propitiation, by which crimes were effaced, and conscience was +appeased; it is therefore not unlikely, that oratories were often built +in places where retirement was sure to have no disturbance. + +Raasay has little that can detain a traveller, except the Laird and his +family; but their power wants no auxiliaries. Such a seat of +hospitality, amidst the winds and waters, fills the imagination with a +delightful contrariety of images. Without is the rough ocean and the +rocky land, the beating billows and the howling storm: within is plenty +and elegance, beauty and gaiety, the song and the dance. In Raasay, if I +could have found an Ulysses, I had fancied a Phoeacia. + + + + +DUNVEGAN + + +At Raasay, by good fortune, Macleod, so the chief of the clan is called, +was paying a visit, and by him we were invited to his seat at Dunvegan. +Raasay has a stout boat, built in Norway, in which, with six oars, he +conveyed us back to Sky. We landed at Port Re, so called, because James +the Fifth of Scotland, who had curiosity to visit the Islands, came into +it. The port is made by an inlet of the sea, deep and narrow, where a +ship lay waiting to dispeople Sky, by carrying the natives away to +America. + +In coasting Sky, we passed by the cavern in which it was the custom, as +Martin relates, to catch birds in the night, by making a fire at the +entrance. This practice is disused; for the birds, as is known often to +happen, have changed their haunts. + +Here we dined at a publick house, I believe the only inn of the island, +and having mounted our horses, travelled in the manner already described, +till we came to Kingsborough, a place distinguished by that name, because +the King lodged here when he landed at Port Re. We were entertained with +the usual hospitality by Mr. Macdonald and his lady, Flora Macdonald, a +name that will be mentioned in history, and if courage and fidelity be +virtues, mentioned with honour. She is a woman of middle stature, soft +features, gentle manners, and elegant presence. + +In the morning we sent our horses round a promontory to meet us, and +spared ourselves part of the day's fatigue, by crossing an arm of the +sea. We had at last some difficulty in coming to Dunvegan; for our way +led over an extensive moor, where every step was to be taken with +caution, and we were often obliged to alight, because the ground could +not be trusted. In travelling this watery flat, I perceived that it had +a visible declivity, and might without much expence or difficulty be +drained. But difficulty and expence are relative terms, which have +different meanings in different places. + +To Dunvegan we came, very willing to be at rest, and found our fatigue +amply recompensed by our reception. Lady Macleod, who had lived many +years in England, was newly come hither with her son and four daughters, +who knew all the arts of southern elegance, and all the modes of English +economy. Here therefore we settled, and did not spoil the present hour +with thoughts of departure. + +Dunvegan is a rocky prominence, that juts out into a bay, on the west +side of Sky. The house, which is the principal seat of Macleod, is +partly old and partly modern; it is built upon the rock, and looks upon +the water. It forms two sides of a small square: on the third side is +the skeleton of a castle of unknown antiquity, supposed to have been a +Norwegian fortress, when the Danes were masters of the Islands. It is so +nearly entire, that it might have easily been made habitable, were there +not an ominous tradition in the family, that the owner shall not long +outlive the reparation. The grandfather of the present Laird, in +defiance of prediction, began the work, but desisted in a little time, +and applied his money to worse uses. + +As the inhabitants of the Hebrides lived, for many ages, in continual +expectation of hostilities, the chief of every clan resided in a +fortress. This house was accessible only from the water, till the last +possessor opened an entrance by stairs upon the land. + +They had formerly reason to be afraid, not only of declared wars and +authorized invaders, or of roving pirates, which, in the northern seas, +must have been very common; but of inroads and insults from rival clans, +who, in the plenitude of feudal independence, asked no leave of their +Sovereign to make war on one another. Sky has been ravaged by a feud +between the two mighty powers of Macdonald and Macleod. Macdonald having +married a Macleod upon some discontent dismissed her, perhaps because she +had brought him no children. Before the reign of James the Fifth, a +Highland Laird made a trial of his wife for a certain time, and if she +did not please him, he was then at liberty to send her away. This +however must always have offended, and Macleod resenting the injury, +whatever were its circumstances, declared, that the wedding had been +solemnized without a bonfire, but that the separation should be better +illuminated; and raising a little army, set fire to the territories of +Macdonald, who returned the visit, and prevailed. + +Another story may show the disorderly state of insular neighbourhood. The +inhabitants of the Isle of Egg, meeting a boat manned by Macleods, tied +the crew hand and foot, and set them a-drift. Macleod landed upon Egg, +and demanded the offenders; but the inhabitants refusing to surrender +them, retreated to a cavern, into which they thought their enemies +unlikely to follow them. Macleod choked them with smoke, and left them +lying dead by families as they stood. + +Here the violence of the weather confined us for some time, not at all to +our discontent or inconvenience. We would indeed very willingly have +visited the Islands, which might be seen from the house scattered in the +sea, and I was particularly desirous to have viewed Isay; but the storms +did not permit us to launch a boat, and we were condemned to listen in +idleness to the wind, except when we were better engaged by listening to +the ladies. + +We had here more wind than waves, and suffered the severity of a tempest, +without enjoying its magnificence. The sea being broken by the multitude +of islands, does not roar with so much noise, nor beat the shore with +such foamy violence, as I have remarked on the coast of Sussex. Though, +while I was in the Hebrides, the wind was extremely turbulent, I never +saw very high billows. + +The country about Dunvegan is rough and barren. There are no trees, +except in the orchard, which is a low sheltered spot surrounded with a +wall. + +When this house was intended to sustain a siege, a well was made in the +court, by boring the rock downwards, till water was found, which though +so near to the sea, I have not heard mentioned as brackish, though it has +some hardness, or other qualities, which make it less fit for use; and +the family is now better supplied from a stream, which runs by the rock, +from two pleasing waterfalls. + +Here we saw some traces of former manners, and heard some standing +traditions. In the house is kept an ox's horn, hollowed so as to hold +perhaps two quarts, which the heir of Macleod was expected to swallow at +one draught, as a test of his manhood, before he was permitted to bear +arms, or could claim a seat among the men. It is held that the return of +the Laird to Dunvegan, after any considerable absence, produces a +plentiful capture of herrings; and that, if any woman crosses the water +to the opposite Island, the herrings will desert the coast. Boetius +tells the same of some other place. This tradition is not uniform. Some +hold that no woman may pass, and others that none may pass but a Macleod. + +Among other guests, which the hospitality of Dunvegan brought to the +table, a visit was paid by the Laird and Lady of a small island south of +Sky, of which the proper name is Muack, which signifies swine. It is +commonly called Muck, which the proprietor not liking, has endeavoured, +without effect, to change to Monk. It is usual to call gentlemen in +Scotland by the name of their possessions, as Raasay, Bernera, Loch Buy, +a practice necessary in countries inhabited by clans, where all that live +in the same territory have one name, and must be therefore discriminated +by some addition. This gentleman, whose name, I think, is Maclean, +should be regularly called Muck; but the appellation, which he thinks too +coarse for his Island, he would like still less for himself, and he is +therefore addressed by the title of, Isle of Muck. + +This little Island, however it be named, is of considerable value. It is +two English miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and +consequently contains only nine hundred and sixty English acres. It is +chiefly arable. Half of this little dominion the Laird retains in his +own hand, and on the other half, live one hundred and sixty persons, who +pay their rent by exported corn. What rent they pay, we were not told, +and could not decently inquire. The proportion of the people to the land +is such, as the most fertile countries do not commonly maintain. + +The Laird having all his people under his immediate view, seems to be +very attentive to their happiness. The devastation of the small-pox, +when it visits places where it comes seldom, is well known. He has +disarmed it of its terrour at Muack, by inoculating eighty of his people. +The expence was two shillings and sixpence a head. Many trades they +cannot have among them, but upon occasion, he fetches a smith from the +Isle of Egg, and has a tailor from the main land, six times a year. This +island well deserved to be seen, but the Laird's absence left us no +opportunity. + +Every inhabited island has its appendant and subordinate islets. Muck, +however small, has yet others smaller about it, one of which has only +ground sufficient to afford pasture for three wethers. + +At Dunvegan I had tasted lotus, and was in danger of forgetting that I +was ever to depart, till Mr. Boswell sagely reproached me with my +sluggishness and softness. I had no very forcible defence to make; and +we agreed to pursue our journey. Macleod accompanied us to Ulinish, +where we were entertained by the sheriff of the Island. + + + + +ULINISH + + +Mr. Macqueen travelled with us, and directed our attention to all that +was worthy of observation. With him we went to see an ancient building, +called a dun or borough. It was a circular inclosure, about forty-two +feet in diameter, walled round with loose stones, perhaps to the height +of nine feet. The walls were very thick, diminishing a little toward the +top, and though in these countries, stone is not brought far, must have +been raised with much labour. Within the great circle were several +smaller rounds of wall, which formed distinct apartments. Its date, and +its use are unknown. Some suppose it the original seat of the chiefs of +the Macleods. Mr. Macqueen thought it a Danish fort. + +The entrance is covered with flat stones, and is narrow, because it was +necessary that the stones which lie over it, should reach from one wall +to the other; yet, strait as the passage is, they seem heavier than could +have been placed where they now lie, by the naked strength of as many men +as might stand about them. They were probably raised by putting long +pieces of wood under them, to which the action of a long line of lifters +might be applied. Savages, in all countries, have patience proportionate +to their unskilfulness, and are content to attain their end by very +tedious methods. + +If it was ever roofed, it might once have been a dwelling, but as there +is no provision for water, it could not have been a fortress. In Sky, as +in every other place, there is an ambition of exalting whatever has +survived memory, to some important use, and referring it to very remote +ages. I am inclined to suspect, that in lawless times, when the +inhabitants of every mountain stole the cattle of their neighbour, these +inclosures were used to secure the herds and flocks in the night. When +they were driven within the wall, they might be easily watched, and +defended as long as could be needful; for the robbers durst not wait till +the injured clan should find them in the morning. + +The interior inclosures, if the whole building were once a house, were +the chambers of the chief inhabitants. If it was a place of security for +cattle, they were probably the shelters of the keepers. + +From the Dun we were conducted to another place of security, a cave +carried a great way under ground, which had been discovered by digging +after a fox. These caves, of which many have been found, and many +probably remain concealed, are formed, I believe, commonly by taking +advantage of a hollow, where banks or rocks rise on either side. If no +such place can be found, the ground must be cut away. The walls are made +by piling stones against the earth, on either side. It is then roofed by +larger stones laid across the cavern, which therefore cannot be wide. +Over the roof, turfs were placed, and grass was suffered to grow; and the +mouth was concealed by bushes, or some other cover. + +These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude +inhabitants, of which, however, I am by no means persuaded. This was so +low, that no man could stand upright in it. By their construction they +are all so narrow, that two can never pass along them together, and being +subterraneous, they must be always damp. They are not the work of an age +much ruder than the present; for they are formed with as much art as the +construction of a common hut requires. I imagine them to have been +places only of occasional use, in which the Islander, upon a sudden +alarm, hid his utensils, or his cloaths, and perhaps sometimes his wife +and children. + +This cave we entered, but could not proceed the whole length, and went +away without knowing how far it was carried. For this omission we shall +be blamed, as we perhaps have blamed other travellers; but the day was +rainy, and the ground was damp. We had with us neither spades nor +pickaxes, and if love of ease surmounted our desire of knowledge, the +offence has not the invidiousness of singularity. + +Edifices, either standing or ruined, are the chief records of an +illiterate nation. In some part of this journey, at no great distance +from our way, stood a shattered fortress, of which the learned minister, +to whose communication we are much indebted, gave us an account. + +Those, said he, are the walls of a place of refuge, built in the time of +James the Sixth, by Hugh Macdonald, who was next heir to the dignity and +fortune of his chief. Hugh, being so near his wish, was impatient of +delay; and had art and influence sufficient to engage several gentlemen +in a plot against the Laird's life. Something must be stipulated on both +sides; for they would not dip their hands in blood merely for Hugh's +advancement. The compact was formerly written, signed by the +conspirators, and placed in the hands of one Macleod. + +It happened that Macleod had sold some cattle to a drover, who, not +having ready money, gave him a bond for payment. The debt was +discharged, and the bond re-demanded; which Macleod, who could not read, +intending to put into his hands, gave him the conspiracy. The drover, +when he had read the paper, delivered it privately to Macdonald; who, +being thus informed of his danger, called his friends together, and +provided for his safety. He made a public feast, and inviting Hugh +Macdonald and his confederates, placed each of them at the table between +two men of known fidelity. The compact of conspiracy was then shewn, and +every man confronted with his own name. Macdonald acted with great +moderation. He upbraided Hugh, both with disloyalty and ingratitude; but +told the rest, that he considered them as men deluded and misinformed. +Hugh was sworn to fidelity, and dismissed with his companions; but he was +not generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity; and finding no longer any +countenance among the gentlemen, endeavoured to execute the same design +by meaner hands. In this practice he was detected, taken to Macdonald's +castle, and imprisoned in the dungeon. When he was hungry, they let down +a plentiful meal of salted meat; and when, after his repast, he called +for drink, conveyed to him a covered cup, which, when he lifted the lid, +he found empty. From that time they visited him no more, but left him to +perish in solitude and darkness. + +We were then told of a cavern by the sea-side, remarkable for the +powerful reverberation of sounds. After dinner we took a boat, to +explore this curious cavity. The boatmen, who seemed to be of a rank +above that of common drudges, inquired who the strangers were, and being +told we came one from Scotland, and the other from England, asked if the +Englishman could recount a long genealogy. What answer was given them, +the conversation being in Erse, I was not much inclined to examine. + +They expected no good event of the voyage; for one of them declared that +he heard the cry of an English ghost. This omen I was not told till +after our return, and therefore cannot claim the dignity of despising it. + +The sea was smooth. We never left the shore, and came without any +disaster to the cavern, which we found rugged and misshapen, about one +hundred and eighty feet long, thirty wide in the broadest part, and in +the loftiest, as we guessed, about thirty high. It was now dry, but at +high water the sea rises in it near six feet. Here I saw what I had +never seen before, limpets and mussels in their natural state. But, as a +new testimony to the veracity of common fame, here was no echo to be +heard. + +We then walked through a natural arch in the rock, which might have +pleased us by its novelty, had the stones, which incumbered our feet, +given us leisure to consider it. We were shown the gummy seed of the +kelp, that fastens itself to a stone, from which it grows into a strong +stalk. + +In our return, we found a little boy upon the point of rock, catching +with his angle, a supper for the family. We rowed up to him, and +borrowed his rod, with which Mr. Boswell caught a cuddy. + +The cuddy is a fish of which I know not the philosophical name. It is +not much bigger than a gudgeon, but is of great use in these Islands, as +it affords the lower people both food, and oil for their lamps. Cuddies +are so abundant, at sometimes of the year, that they are caught like +whitebait in the Thames, only by dipping a basket and drawing it back. + +If it were always practicable to fish, these Islands could never be in +much danger from famine; but unhappily in the winter, when other +provision fails, the seas are commonly too rough for nets, or boats. + + + + +TALISKER IN SKY + + +From Ulinish, our next stage was to Talisker, the house of colonel +Macleod, an officer in the Dutch service, who, in this time of universal +peace, has for several years been permitted to be absent from his +regiment. Having been bred to physick, he is consequently a scholar, and +his lady, by accompanying him in his different places of residence, is +become skilful in several languages. Talisker is the place beyond all +that I have seen, from which the gay and the jovial seem utterly +excluded; and where the hermit might expect to grow old in meditation, +without possibility of disturbance or interruption. It is situated very +near the sea, but upon a coast where no vessel lands but when it is +driven by a tempest on the rocks. Towards the land are lofty hills +streaming with waterfalls. The garden is sheltered by firs or pines, +which grow there so prosperously, that some, which the present inhabitant +planted, are very high and thick. + +At this place we very happily met Mr. Donald Maclean, a young gentleman, +the eldest son of the Laird of Col, heir to a very great extent of land, +and so desirous of improving his inheritance, that he spent a +considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordshire, and Hampshire, to +learn their practice. He worked with his own hands at the principal +operations of agriculture, that he might not deceive himself by a false +opinion of skill, which, if he should find it deficient at home, he had +no means of completing. If the world has agreed to praise the travels +and manual labours of the Czar of Muscovy, let Col have his share of the +like applause, in the proportion of his dominions to the empire of +Russia. + +This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky, and when he +was weary with following his game, repaired for lodging to Talisker. At +night he missed one of his dogs, and when he went to seek him in the +morning, found two eagles feeding on his carcass. + +Col, for he must be named by his possessions, hearing that our intention +was to visit Jona, offered to conduct us to his chief, Sir Allan Maclean, +who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth, and would readily find us a +convenient passage. From this time was formed an acquaintance, which +being begun by kindness, was accidentally continued by constraint; we +derived much pleasure from it, and I hope have given him no reason to +repent it. + +The weather was now almost one continued storm, and we were to snatch +some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull, the third Island of the +Hebrides, lying about a degree south of Sky, whence we might easily find +our way to Inch Kenneth, where Sir Allan Maclean resided, and afterward +to Jona. + +For this purpose, the most commodious station that we could take was +Armidel, which Sir Alexander Macdonald had now left to a gentleman, who +lived there as his factor or steward. + +In our way to Armidel was Coriatachan, where we had already been, and to +which therefore we were very willing to return. We staid however so long +at Talisker, that a great part of our journey was performed in the gloom +of the evening. In travelling even thus almost without light thro' naked +solitude, when there is a guide whose conduct may be trusted, a mind not +naturally too much disposed to fear, may preserve some degree of +cheerfulness; but what must be the solicitude of him who should be +wandering, among the craggs and hollows, benighted, ignorant, and alone? + +The fictions of the Gothick romances were not so remote from credibility +as they are now thought. In the full prevalence of the feudal +institution, when violence desolated the world, and every baron lived in +a fortress, forests and castles were regularly succeeded by each other, +and the adventurer might very suddenly pass from the gloom of woods, or +the ruggedness of moors, to seats of plenty, gaiety, and magnificence. +Whatever is imaged in the wildest tale, if giants, dragons, and +enchantment be excepted, would be felt by him, who, wandering in the +mountains without a guide, or upon the sea without a pilot, should be +carried amidst his terror and uncertainty, to the hospitality and +elegance of Raasay or Dunvegan. + +To Coriatachan at last we came, and found ourselves welcomed as before. +Here we staid two days, and made such inquiries as curiosity suggested. +The house was filled with company, among whom Mr. Macpherson and his +sister distinguished themselves by their politeness and accomplishments. +By him we were invited to Ostig, a house not far from Armidel, where we +might easily hear of a boat, when the weather would suffer us to leave +the Island. + + + + +OSTIG IN SKY + + +At Ostig, of which Mr. Macpherson is minister, we were entertained for +some days, then removed to Armidel, where we finished our observations on +the island of Sky. + +As this Island lies in the fifty-seventh degree, the air cannot be +supposed to have much warmth. The long continuance of the sun above the +horizon, does indeed sometimes produce great heat in northern latitudes; +but this can only happen in sheltered places, where the atmosphere is to +a certain degree stagnant, and the same mass of air continues to receive +for many hours the rays of the sun, and the vapours of the earth. Sky +lies open on the west and north to a vast extent of ocean, and is cooled +in the summer by perpetual ventilation, but by the same blasts is kept +warm in winter. Their weather is not pleasing. Half the year is deluged +with rain. From the autumnal to the vernal equinox, a dry day is hardly +known, except when the showers are suspended by a tempest. Under such +skies can be expected no great exuberance of vegetation. Their winter +overtakes their summer, and their harvest lies upon the ground drenched +with rain. The autumn struggles hard to produce some of our early +fruits. I gathered gooseberries in September; but they were small, and +the husk was thick. + +Their winter is seldom such as puts a full stop to the growth of plants, +or reduces the cattle to live wholly on the surplusage of the summer. In +the year Seventy-one they had a severe season, remembered by the name of +the Black Spring, from which the island has not yet recovered. The snow +lay long upon the ground, a calamity hardly known before. Part of their +cattle died for want, part were unseasonably sold to buy sustenance for +the owners; and, what I have not read or heard of before, the kine that +survived were so emaciated and dispirited, that they did not require the +male at the usual time. Many of the roebucks perished. + +The soil, as in other countries, has its diversities. In some parts +there is only a thin layer of earth spread upon a rock, which bears +nothing but short brown heath, and perhaps is not generally capable of +any better product. There are many bogs or mosses of greater or less +extent, where the soil cannot be supposed to want depth, though it is too +wet for the plow. But we did not observe in these any aquatick plants. +The vallies and the mountains are alike darkened with heath. Some grass, +however, grows here and there, and some happier spots of earth are +capable of tillage. + +Their agriculture is laborious, and perhaps rather feeble than unskilful. +Their chief manure is seaweed, which, when they lay it to rot upon the +field, gives them a better crop than those of the Highlands. They heap +sea shells upon the dunghill, which in time moulder into a fertilising +substance. When they find a vein of earth where they cannot use it, they +dig it up, and add it to the mould of a more commodious place. + +Their corn grounds often lie in such intricacies among the craggs, that +there is no room for the action of a team and plow. The soil is then +turned up by manual labour, with an instrument called a crooked spade, of +a form and weight which to me appeared very incommodious, and would +perhaps be soon improved in a country where workmen could be easily found +and easily paid. It has a narrow blade of iron fixed to a long and heavy +piece of wood, which must have, about a foot and a half above the iron, a +knee or flexure with the angle downwards. When the farmer encounters a +stone which is the great impediment of his operations, he drives the +blade under it, and bringing the knee or angle to the ground, has in the +long handle a very forcible lever. + +According to the different mode of tillage, farms are distinguished into +long land and short land. Long land is that which affords room for a +plow, and short land is turned up by the spade. + +The grain which they commit to the furrows thus tediously formed, is +either oats or barley. They do not sow barley without very copious +manure, and then they expect from it ten for one, an increase equal to +that of better countries; but the culture is so operose that they content +themselves commonly with oats; and who can relate without compassion, +that after all their diligence they are to expect only a triple increase? +It is in vain to hope for plenty, when a third part of the harvest must +be reserved for seed. + +When their grain is arrived at the state which they must consider as +ripeness, they do not cut, but pull the barley: to the oats they apply +the sickle. Wheel carriages they have none, but make a frame of timber, +which is drawn by one horse with the two points behind pressing on the +ground. On this they sometimes drag home their sheaves, but often convey +them home in a kind of open panier, or frame of sticks upon the horse's +back. + +Of that which is obtained with so much difficulty, nothing surely ought +to be wasted; yet their method of clearing their oats from the husk is by +parching them in the straw. Thus with the genuine improvidence of +savages, they destroy that fodder for want of which their cattle may +perish. From this practice they have two petty conveniences. They dry +the grain so that it is easily reduced to meal, and they escape the theft +of the thresher. The taste contracted from the fire by the oats, as by +every other scorched substance, use must long ago have made grateful. The +oats that are not parched must be dried in a kiln. + +The barns of Sky I never saw. That which Macleod of Raasay had erected +near his house was so contrived, because the harvest is seldom brought +home dry, as by perpetual perflation to prevent the mow from heating. + +Of their gardens I can judge only from their tables. I did not observe +that the common greens were wanting, and suppose, that by choosing an +advantageous exposition, they can raise all the more hardy esculent +plants. Of vegetable fragrance or beauty they are not yet studious. Few +vows are made to Flora in the Hebrides. + +They gather a little hay, but the grass is mown late; and is so often +almost dry and again very wet, before it is housed, that it becomes a +collection of withered stalks without taste or fragrance; it must be +eaten by cattle that have nothing else, but by most English farmers would +be thrown away. + +In the Islands I have not heard that any subterraneous treasures have +been discovered, though where there are mountains, there are commonly +minerals. One of the rocks in Col has a black vein, imagined to consist +of the ore of lead; but it was never yet opened or essayed. In Sky a +black mass was accidentally picked up, and brought into the house of the +owner of the land, who found himself strongly inclined to think it a +coal, but unhappily it did not burn in the chimney. Common ores would be +here of no great value; for what requires to be separated by fire, must, +if it were found, be carried away in its mineral state, here being no +fewel for the smelting-house or forge. Perhaps by diligent search in +this world of stone, some valuable species of marble might be discovered. +But neither philosophical curiosity, nor commercial industry, have yet +fixed their abode here, where the importunity of immediate want supplied +but for the day, and craving on the morrow, has left little room for +excursive knowledge or the pleasing fancies of distant profit. + +They have lately found a manufacture considerably lucrative. Their rocks +abound with kelp, a sea-plant, of which the ashes are melted into glass. +They burn kelp in great quantities, and then send it away in ships, which +come regularly to purchase them. This new source of riches has raised +the rents of many maritime farms; but the tenants pay, like all other +tenants, the additional rent with great unwillingness; because they +consider the profits of the kelp as the mere product of personal labour, +to which the landlord contributes nothing. However, as any man may be +said to give, what he gives the power of gaining, he has certainly as +much right to profit from the price of kelp as of any thing else found or +raised upon his ground. + +This new trade has excited a long and eager litigation between Macdonald +and Macleod, for a ledge of rocks, which, till the value of kelp was +known, neither of them desired the reputation of possessing. + +The cattle of Sky are not so small as is commonly believed. Since they +have sent their beeves in great numbers to southern marts, they have +probably taken more care of their breed. At stated times the annual +growth of cattle is driven to a fair, by a general drover, and with the +money, which he returns to the farmer, the rents are paid. + +The price regularly expected, is from two to three pounds a head: there +was once one sold for five pounds. They go from the Islands very lean, +and are not offered to the butcher, till they have been long fatted in +English pastures. + +Of their black cattle, some are without horns, called by the Scots humble +cows, as we call a bee an humble bee, that wants a sting. Whether this +difference be specifick, or accidental, though we inquired with great +diligence, we could not be informed. We are not very sure that the bull +is ever without horns, though we have been told, that such bulls there +are. What is produced by putting a horned and unhorned male and female +together, no man has ever tried, that thought the result worthy of +observation. + +Their horses are, like their cows, of a moderate size. I had no +difficulty to mount myself commodiously by the favour of the gentlemen. I +heard of very little cows in Barra, and very little horses in Rum, where +perhaps no care is taken to prevent that diminution of size, which must +always happen, where the greater and the less copulate promiscuously, and +the young animal is restrained from growth by penury of sustenance. + +The goat is the general inhabitant of the earth, complying with every +difference of climate, and of soil. The goats of the Hebrides are like +others: nor did I hear any thing of their sheep, to be particularly +remarked. + +In the penury of these malignant regions, nothing is left that can be +converted to food. The goats and the sheep are milked like the cows. A +single meal of a goat is a quart, and of a sheep a pint. Such at least +was the account, which I could extract from those of whom I am not sure +that they ever had inquired. + +The milk of goats is much thinner than that of cows, and that of sheep is +much thicker. Sheeps milk is never eaten before it is boiled: as it is +thick, it must be very liberal of curd, and the people of St. Kilda form +it into small cheeses. + +The stags of the mountains are less than those of our parks, or forests, +perhaps not bigger than our fallow deer. Their flesh has no rankness, +nor is inferiour in flavour to our common venison. The roebuck I neither +saw nor tasted. These are not countries for a regular chase. The deer +are not driven with horns and hounds. A sportsman, with his gun in his +hand, watches the animal, and when he has wounded him, traces him by the +blood. + +They have a race of brinded greyhounds, larger and stronger than those +with which we course hares, and those are the only dogs used by them for +the chase. + +Man is by the use of fire-arms made so much an overmatch for other +animals, that in all countries, where they are in use, the wild part of +the creation sensibly diminishes. There will probably not be long, +either stags or roebucks in the Islands. All the beasts of chase would +have been lost long ago in countries well inhabited, had they not been +preserved by laws for the pleasure of the rich. + +There are in Sky neither rats nor mice, but the weasel is so frequent, +that he is heard in houses rattling behind chests or beds, as rats in +England. They probably owe to his predominance that they have no other +vermin; for since the great rat took possession of this part of the +world, scarce a ship can touch at any port, but some of his race are left +behind. They have within these few years began to infest the isle of +Col, where being left by some trading vessel, they have increased for +want of weasels to oppose them. + +The inhabitants of Sky, and of the other Islands, which I have seen, are +commonly of the middle stature, with fewer among them very tall or very +short, than are seen in England, or perhaps, as their numbers are small, +the chances of any deviation from the common measure are necessarily few. +The tallest men that I saw are among those of higher rank. In regions of +barrenness and scarcity, the human race is hindered in its growth by the +same causes as other animals. + +The ladies have as much beauty here as in other places, but bloom and +softness are not to be expected among the lower classes, whose faces are +exposed to the rudeness of the climate, and whose features are sometimes +contracted by want, and sometimes hardened by the blasts. Supreme beauty +is seldom found in cottages or work-shops, even where no real hardships +are suffered. To expand the human face to its full perfection, it seems +necessary that the mind should co-operate by placidness of content, or +consciousness of superiority. + +Their strength is proportionate to their size, but they are accustomed to +run upon rough ground, and therefore can with great agility skip over the +bog, or clamber the mountain. For a campaign in the wastes of America, +soldiers better qualified could not have been found. Having little work +to do, they are not willing, nor perhaps able to endure a long +continuance of manual labour, and are therefore considered as habitually +idle. + +Having never been supplied with those accommodations, which life +extensively diversified with trades affords, they supply their wants by +very insufficient shifts, and endure many inconveniences, which a little +attention would easily relieve. I have seen a horse carrying home the +harvest on a crate. Under his tail was a stick for a crupper, held at +the two ends by twists of straw. Hemp will grow in their islands, and +therefore ropes may be had. If they wanted hemp, they might make better +cordage of rushes, or perhaps of nettles, than of straw. + +Their method of life neither secures them perpetual health, nor exposes +them to any particular diseases. There are physicians in the Islands, +who, I believe, all practise chirurgery, and all compound their own +medicines. + +It is generally supposed, that life is longer in places where there are +few opportunities of luxury; but I found no instance here of +extraordinary longevity. A cottager grows old over his oaten cakes, like +a citizen at a turtle feast. He is indeed seldom incommoded by +corpulence. Poverty preserves him from sinking under the burden of +himself, but he escapes no other injury of time. Instances of long life +are often related, which those who hear them are more willing to credit +than examine. To be told that any man has attained a hundred years, +gives hope and comfort to him who stands trembling on the brink of his +own climacterick. + +Length of life is distributed impartially to very different modes of life +in very different climates; and the mountains have no greater examples of +age and health than the low lands, where I was introduced to two ladies +of high quality; one of whom, in her ninety-fourth year, presided at her +table with the full exercise of all her powers; and the other has +attained her eighty-fourth, without any diminution of her vivacity, and +with little reason to accuse time of depredations on her beauty. + +In the Islands, as in most other places, the inhabitants are of different +rank, and one does not encroach here upon another. Where there is no +commerce nor manufacture, he that is born poor can scarcely become rich; +and if none are able to buy estates, he that is born to land cannot +annihilate his family by selling it. This was once the state of these +countries. Perhaps there is no example, till within a century and half, +of any family whose estate was alienated otherwise than by violence or +forfeiture. Since money has been brought amongst them, they have found, +like others, the art of spending more than they receive; and I saw with +grief the chief of a very ancient clan, whose Island was condemned by law +to be sold for the satisfaction of his creditors. + +The name of highest dignity is Laird, of which there are in the extensive +Isle of Sky only three, Macdonald, Macleod, and Mackinnon. The Laird is +the original owner of the land, whose natural power must be very great, +where no man lives but by agriculture; and where the produce of the land +is not conveyed through the labyrinths of traffick, but passes directly +from the hand that gathers it to the mouth that eats it. The Laird has +all those in his power that live upon his farms. Kings can, for the most +part, only exalt or degrade. The Laird at pleasure can feed or starve, +can give bread, or withold it. This inherent power was yet strengthened +by the kindness of consanguinity, and the reverence of patriarchal +authority. The Laird was the father of the Clan, and his tenants +commonly bore his name. And to these principles of original command was +added, for many ages, an exclusive right of legal jurisdiction. + +This multifarious, and extensive obligation operated with force scarcely +credible. Every duty, moral or political, was absorbed in affection and +adherence to the Chief. Not many years have passed since the clans knew +no law but the Laird's will. He told them to whom they should be friends +or enemies, what King they should obey, and what religion they should +profess. + +When the Scots first rose in arms against the succession of the house of +Hanover, Lovat, the Chief of the Frasers, was in exile for a rape. The +Frasers were very numerous, and very zealous against the government. A +pardon was sent to Lovat. He came to the English camp, and the clan +immediately deserted to him. + +Next in dignity to the Laird is the Tacksman; a large taker or +lease-holder of land, of which he keeps part, as a domain, in his own +hand, and lets part to under tenants. The Tacksman is necessarily a man +capable of securing to the Laird the whole rent, and is commonly a +collateral relation. These tacks, or subordinate possessions, were long +considered as hereditary, and the occupant was distinguished by the name +of the place at which he resided. He held a middle station, by which the +highest and the lowest orders were connected. He paid rent and reverence +to the Laird, and received them from the tenants. This tenure still +subsists, with its original operation, but not with the primitive +stability. Since the islanders, no longer content to live, have learned +the desire of growing rich, an ancient dependent is in danger of giving +way to a higher bidder, at the expense of domestick dignity and +hereditary power. The stranger, whose money buys him preference, +considers himself as paying for all that he has, and is indifferent about +the Laird's honour or safety. The commodiousness of money is indeed +great; but there are some advantages which money cannot buy, and which +therefore no wise man will by the love of money be tempted to forego. + +I have found in the hither parts of Scotland, men not defective in +judgment or general experience, who consider the Tacksman as a useless +burden of the ground, as a drone who lives upon the product of an estate, +without the right of property, or the merit of labour, and who +impoverishes at once the landlord and the tenant. The land, say they, is +let to the Tacksman at sixpence an acre, and by him to the tenant at ten- +pence. Let the owner be the immediate landlord to all the tenants; if he +sets the ground at eight-pence, he will increase his revenue by a fourth +part, and the tenant's burthen will be diminished by a fifth. + +Those who pursue this train of reasoning, seem not sufficiently to +inquire whither it will lead them, nor to know that it will equally shew +the propriety of suppressing all wholesale trade, of shutting up the +shops of every man who sells what he does not make, and of extruding all +whose agency and profit intervene between the manufacturer and the +consumer. They may, by stretching their understandings a little wider, +comprehend, that all those who by undertaking large quantities of +manufacture, and affording employment to many labourers, make themselves +considered as benefactors to the publick, have only been robbing their +workmen with one hand, and their customers with the other. If Crowley +had sold only what he could make, and all his smiths had wrought their +own iron with their own hammers, he would have lived on less, and they +would have sold their work for more. The salaries of superintendents and +clerks would have been partly saved, and partly shared, and nails been +sometimes cheaper by a farthing in a hundred. But then if the smith +could not have found an immediate purchaser, he must have deserted his +anvil; if there had by accident at any time been more sellers than +buyers, the workmen must have reduced their profit to nothing, by +underselling one another; and as no great stock could have been in any +hand, no sudden demand of large quantities could have been answered and +the builder must have stood still till the nailer could supply him. + +According to these schemes, universal plenty is to begin and end in +universal misery. Hope and emulation will be utterly extinguished; and +as all must obey the call of immediate necessity, nothing that requires +extensive views, or provides for distant consequences will ever be +performed. + +To the southern inhabitants of Scotland, the state of the mountains and +the islands is equally unknown with that of Borneo or Sumatra: Of both +they have only heard a little, and guess the rest. They are strangers to +the language and the manners, to the advantages and wants of the people, +whose life they would model, and whose evils they would remedy. + +Nothing is less difficult than to procure one convenience by the +forfeiture of another. A soldier may expedite his march by throwing away +his arms. To banish the Tacksman is easy, to make a country plentiful by +diminishing the people, is an expeditious mode of husbandry; but little +abundance, which there is nobody to enjoy, contributes little to human +happiness. + +As the mind must govern the hands, so in every society the man of +intelligence must direct the man of labour. If the Tacksmen be taken +away, the Hebrides must in their present state be given up to grossness +and ignorance; the tenant, for want of instruction, will be unskilful, +and for want of admonition will be negligent. The Laird in these wide +estates, which often consist of islands remote from one another, cannot +extend his personal influence to all his tenants; and the steward having +no dignity annexed to his character, can have little authority among men +taught to pay reverence only to birth, and who regard the Tacksman as +their hereditary superior; nor can the steward have equal zeal for the +prosperity of an estate profitable only to the Laird, with the Tacksman, +who has the Laird's income involved in his own. + +The only gentlemen in the Islands are the Lairds, the Tacksmen, and the +Ministers, who frequently improve their livings by becoming farmers. If +the Tacksmen be banished, who will be left to impart knowledge, or +impress civility? The Laird must always be at a distance from the +greater part of his lands; and if he resides at all upon them, must drag +his days in solitude, having no longer either a friend or a companion; he +will therefore depart to some more comfortable residence, and leave the +tenants to the wisdom and mercy of a factor. + +Of tenants there are different orders, as they have greater or less +stock. Land is sometimes leased to a small fellowship, who live in a +cluster of huts, called a Tenants Town, and are bound jointly and +separately for the payment of their rent. These, I believe, employ in +the care of their cattle, and the labour of tillage, a kind of tenants +yet lower; who having a hut with grass for a certain number of cows and +sheep, pay their rent by a stipulated quantity of labour. + +The condition of domestick servants, or the price of occasional labour, I +do not know with certainty. I was told that the maids have sheep, and +are allowed to spin for their own clothing; perhaps they have no +pecuniary wages, or none but in very wealthy families. The state of +life, which has hitherto been purely pastoral, begins now to be a little +variegated with commerce; but novelties enter by degrees, and till one +mode has fully prevailed over the other, no settled notion can be formed. + +Such is the system of insular subordination, which, having little +variety, cannot afford much delight in the view, nor long detain the mind +in contemplation. The inhabitants were for a long time perhaps not +unhappy; but their content was a muddy mixture of pride and ignorance, an +indifference for pleasures which they did not know, a blind veneration +for their chiefs, and a strong conviction of their own importance. + +Their pride has been crushed by the heavy hand of a vindictive conqueror, +whose seventies have been followed by laws, which, though they cannot be +called cruel, have produced much discontent, because they operate upon +the surface of life, and make every eye bear witness to subjection. To +be compelled to a new dress has always been found painful. + +Their Chiefs being now deprived of their jurisdiction, have already lost +much of their influence; and as they gradually degenerate from +patriarchal rulers to rapacious landlords, they will divest themselves of +the little that remains. + +That dignity which they derived from an opinion of their military +importance, the law, which disarmed them, has abated. An old gentleman, +delighting himself with the recollection of better days, related, that +forty years ago, a Chieftain walked out attended by ten or twelve +followers, with their arms rattling. That animating rabble has now +ceased. The Chief has lost his formidable retinue; and the Highlander +walks his heath unarmed and defenceless, with the peaceable submission of +a French peasant or English cottager. + +Their ignorance grows every day less, but their knowledge is yet of +little other use than to shew them their wants. They are now in the +period of education, and feel the uneasiness of discipline, without yet +perceiving the benefit of instruction. + +The last law, by which the Highlanders are deprived of their arms, has +operated with efficacy beyond expectation. Of former statutes made with +the same design, the execution had been feeble, and the effect +inconsiderable. Concealment was undoubtedly practised, and perhaps often +with connivance. There was tenderness, or partiality, on one side, and +obstinacy on the other. But the law, which followed the victory of +Culloden, found the whole nation dejected and intimidated; informations +were given without danger, and without fear, and the arms were collected +with such rigour, that every house was despoiled of its defence. + +To disarm part of the Highlands, could give no reasonable occasion of +complaint. Every government must be allowed the power of taking away the +weapon that is lifted against it. But the loyal clans murmured, with +some appearance of justice, that after having defended the King, they +were forbidden for the future to defend themselves; and that the sword +should be forfeited, which had been legally employed. Their case is +undoubtedly hard, but in political regulations, good cannot be complete, +it can only be predominant. + +Whether by disarming a people thus broken into several tribes, and thus +remote from the seat of power, more good than evil has been produced, may +deserve inquiry. The supreme power in every community has the right of +debarring every individual, and every subordinate society from +self-defence, only because the supreme power is able to defend them; and +therefore where the governor cannot act, he must trust the subject to act +for himself. These Islands might be wasted with fire and sword before +their sovereign would know their distress. A gang of robbers, such as +has been lately found confederating themselves in the Highlands, might +lay a wide region under contribution. The crew of a petty privateer +might land on the largest and most wealthy of the Islands, and riot +without control in cruelty and waste. It was observed by one of the +Chiefs of Sky, that fifty armed men might, without resistance ravage the +country. Laws that place the subjects in such a state, contravene the +first principles of the compact of authority: they exact obedience, and +yield no protection. + +It affords a generous and manly pleasure to conceive a little nation +gathering its fruits and tending its herds with fearless confidence, +though it lies open on every side to invasion, where, in contempt of +walls and trenches, every man sleeps securely with his sword beside him; +where all on the first approach of hostility came together at the call to +battle, as at a summons to a festal show; and committing their cattle to +the care of those whom age or nature has disabled, engage the enemy with +that competition for hazard and for glory, which operate in men that +fight under the eye of those, whose dislike or kindness they have always +considered as the greatest evil or the greatest good. + +This was, in the beginning of the present century, the state of the +Highlands. Every man was a soldier, who partook of national confidence, +and interested himself in national honour. To lose this spirit, is to +lose what no small advantage will compensate. + +It may likewise deserve to be inquired, whether a great nation ought to +be totally commercial? whether amidst the uncertainty of human affairs, +too much attention to one mode of happiness may not endanger others? +whether the pride of riches must not sometimes have recourse to the +protection of courage? and whether, if it be necessary to preserve in +some part of the empire the military spirit, it can subsist more +commodiously in any place, than in remote and unprofitable provinces, +where it can commonly do little harm, and whence it may be called forth +at any sudden exigence? + +It must however be confessed, that a man, who places honour only in +successful violence, is a very troublesome and pernicious animal in time +of peace; and that the martial character cannot prevail in a whole +people, but by the diminution of all other virtues. He that is +accustomed to resolve all right into conquest, will have very little +tenderness or equity. All the friendship in such a life can be only a +confederacy of invasion, or alliance of defence. The strong must +flourish by force, and the weak subsist by stratagem. + +Till the Highlanders lost their ferocity, with their arms, they suffered +from each other all that malignity could dictate, or precipitance could +act. Every provocation was revenged with blood, and no man that ventured +into a numerous company, by whatever occasion brought together, was sure +of returning without a wound. If they are now exposed to foreign +hostilities, they may talk of the danger, but can seldom feel it. If +they are no longer martial, they are no longer quarrelsome. Misery is +caused for the most part, not by a heavy crush of disaster, but by the +corrosion of less visible evils, which canker enjoyment, and undermine +security. The visit of an invader is necessarily rare, but domestick +animosities allow no cessation. + +The abolition of the local jurisdictions, which had for so many ages been +exercised by the chiefs, has likewise its evil and its good. The feudal +constitution naturally diffused itself into long ramifications of +subordinate authority. To this general temper of the government was +added the peculiar form of the country, broken by mountains into many +subdivisions scarcely accessible but to the natives, and guarded by +passes, or perplexed with intricacies, through which national justice +could not find its way. + +The power of deciding controversies, and of punishing offences, as some +such power there must always be, was intrusted to the Lairds of the +country, to those whom the people considered as their natural judges. It +cannot be supposed that a rugged proprietor of the rocks, unprincipled +and unenlightened, was a nice resolver of entangled claims, or very exact +in proportioning punishment to offences. But the more he indulged his +own will, the more he held his vassals in dependence. Prudence and +innocence, without the favour of the Chief, conferred no security; and +crimes involved no danger, when the judge was resolute to acquit. + +When the chiefs were men of knowledge and virtue, the convenience of a +domestick judicature was great. No long journies were necessary, nor +artificial delays could be practised; the character, the alliances, and +interests of the litigants were known to the court, and all false +pretences were easily detected. The sentence, when it was past, could +not be evaded; the power of the Laird superseded formalities, and justice +could not be defeated by interest or stratagem. + +I doubt not but that since the regular judges have made their circuits +through the whole country, right has been every where more wisely, and +more equally distributed; the complaint is, that litigation is grown +troublesome, and that the magistrates are too few, and therefore often +too remote for general convenience. + +Many of the smaller Islands have no legal officer within them. I once +asked, If a crime should be committed, by what authority the offender +could be seized? and was told, that the Laird would exert his right; a +right which he must now usurp, but which surely necessity must vindicate, +and which is therefore yet exercised in lower degrees, by some of the +proprietors, when legal processes cannot be obtained. + +In all greater questions, however, there is now happily an end to all +fear or hope from malice or from favour. The roads are secure in those +places through which, forty years ago, no traveller could pass without a +convoy. All trials of right by the sword are forgotten, and the mean are +in as little danger from the powerful as in other places. No scheme of +policy has, in any country, yet brought the rich and poor on equal terms +into courts of judicature. Perhaps experience, improving on experience, +may in time effect it. + +Those who have long enjoyed dignity and power, ought not to lose it +without some equivalent. There was paid to the Chiefs by the publick, in +exchange for their privileges, perhaps a sum greater than most of them +had ever possessed, which excited a thirst for riches, of which it shewed +them the use. When the power of birth and station ceases, no hope +remains but from the prevalence of money. Power and wealth supply the +place of each other. Power confers the ability of gratifying our desire +without the consent of others. Wealth enables us to obtain the consent +of others to our gratification. Power, simply considered, whatever it +confers on one, must take from another. Wealth enables its owner to give +to others, by taking only from himself. Power pleases the violent and +proud: wealth delights the placid and the timorous. Youth therefore +flies at power, and age grovels after riches. + +The Chiefs, divested of their prerogatives, necessarily turned their +thoughts to the improvement of their revenues, and expect more rent, as +they have less homage. The tenant, who is far from perceiving that his +condition is made better in the same proportion, as that of his landlord +is made worse, does not immediately see why his industry is to be taxed +more heavily than before. He refuses to pay the demand, and is ejected; +the ground is then let to a stranger, who perhaps brings a larger stock, +but who, taking the land at its full price, treats with the Laird upon +equal terms, and considers him not as a Chief, but as a trafficker in +land. Thus the estate perhaps is improved, but the clan is broken. + +It seems to be the general opinion, that the rents have been raised with +too much eagerness. Some regard must be paid to prejudice. Those who +have hitherto paid but little, will not suddenly be persuaded to pay +much, though they can afford it. As ground is gradually improved, and +the value of money decreases, the rent may be raised without any +diminution of the farmer's profits: yet it is necessary in these +countries, where the ejection of a tenant is a greater evil, than in more +populous places, to consider not merely what the land will produce, but +with what ability the inhabitant can cultivate it. A certain stock can +allow but a certain payment; for if the land be doubled, and the stock +remains the same, the tenant becomes no richer. The proprietors of the +Highlands might perhaps often increase their income, by subdividing the +farms, and allotting to every occupier only so many acres as he can +profitably employ, but that they want people. + +There seems now, whatever be the cause, to be through a great part of the +Highlands a general discontent. That adherence, which was lately +professed by every man to the chief of his name, has now little +prevalence; and he that cannot live as he desires at home, listens to the +tale of fortunate islands, and happy regions, where every man may have +land of his own, and eat the product of his labour without a superior. + +Those who have obtained grants of American lands, have, as is well known, +invited settlers from all quarters of the globe; and among other places, +where oppression might produce a wish for new habitations, their +emissaries would not fail to try their persuasions in the Isles of +Scotland, where at the time when the clans were newly disunited from +their Chiefs, and exasperated by unprecedented exactions, it is no wonder +that they prevailed. + +Whether the mischiefs of emigration were immediately perceived, may be +justly questioned. They who went first, were probably such as could best +be spared; but the accounts sent by the earliest adventurers, whether +true or false, inclined many to follow them; and whole neighbourhoods +formed parties for removal; so that departure from their native country +is no longer exile. He that goes thus accompanied, carries with him all +that makes life pleasant. He sits down in a better climate, surrounded +by his kindred and his friends: they carry with them their language, +their opinions, their popular songs, and hereditary merriment: they +change nothing but the place of their abode; and of that change they +perceive the benefit. + +This is the real effect of emigration, if those that go away together +settle on the same spot, and preserve their ancient union. But some +relate that these adventurous visitants of unknown regions, after a +voyage passed in dreams of plenty and felicity, are dispersed at last +upon a Sylvan wilderness, where their first years must be spent in toil, +to clear the ground which is afterwards to be tilled, and that the whole +effect of their undertakings is only more fatigue and equal scarcity. + +Both accounts may be suspected. Those who are gone will endeavour by +every art to draw others after them; for as their numbers are greater, +they will provide better for themselves. When Nova Scotia was first +peopled, I remember a letter, published under the character of a New +Planter, who related how much the climate put him in mind of Italy. Such +intelligence the Hebridians probably receive from their transmarine +correspondents. But with equal temptations of interest, and perhaps with +no greater niceness of veracity, the owners of the Islands spread stories +of American hardships to keep their people content at home. + +Some method to stop this epidemick desire of wandering, which spreads its +contagion from valley to valley, deserves to be sought with great +diligence. In more fruitful countries, the removal of one only makes +room for the succession of another: but in the Hebrides, the loss of an +inhabitant leaves a lasting vacuity; for nobody born in any other parts +of the world will choose this country for his residence, and an Island +once depopulated will remain a desert, as long as the present facility of +travel gives every one, who is discontented and unsettled, the choice of +his abode. + +Let it be inquired, whether the first intention of those who are +fluttering on the wing, and collecting a flock that they may take their +flight, be to attain good, or to avoid evil. If they are dissatisfied +with that part of the globe, which their birth has allotted them, and +resolve not to live without the pleasures of happier climates; if they +long for bright suns, and calm skies, and flowery fields, and fragrant +gardens, I know not by what eloquence they can be persuaded, or by what +offers they can be hired to stay. + +But if they are driven from their native country by positive evils, and +disgusted by ill-treatment, real or imaginary, it were fit to remove +their grievances, and quiet their resentment; since, if they have been +hitherto undutiful subjects, they will not much mend their principles by +American conversation. + +To allure them into the army, it was thought proper to indulge them in +the continuance of their national dress. If this concession could have +any effect, it might easily be made. That dissimilitude of appearance, +which was supposed to keep them distinct from the rest of the nation, +might disincline them from coalescing with the Pensylvanians, or people +of Connecticut. If the restitution of their arms will reconcile them to +their country, let them have again those weapons, which will not be more +mischievous at home than in the Colonies. That they may not fly from the +increase of rent, I know not whether the general good does not require +that the landlords be, for a time, restrained in their demands, and kept +quiet by pensions proportionate to their loss. + +To hinder insurrection, by driving away the people, and to govern +peaceably, by having no subjects, is an expedient that argues no great +profundity of politicks. To soften the obdurate, to convince the +mistaken, to mollify the resentful, are worthy of a statesman; but it +affords a legislator little self-applause to consider, that where there +was formerly an insurrection, there is now a wilderness. + +It has been a question often agitated without solution, why those +northern regions are now so thinly peopled, which formerly overwhelmed +with their armies the Roman empire. The question supposes what I believe +is not true, that they had once more inhabitants than they could +maintain, and overflowed only because they were full. + +This is to estimate the manners of all countries and ages by our own. +Migration, while the state of life was unsettled, and there was little +communication of intelligence between distant places, was among the +wilder nations of Europe, capricious and casual. An adventurous +projector heard of a fertile coast unoccupied, and led out a colony; a +chief of renown for bravery, called the young men together, and led them +out to try what fortune would present. When Caesar was in Gaul, he found +the Helvetians preparing to go they knew not whither, and put a stop to +their motions. They settled again in their own country, where they were +so far from wanting room, that they had accumulated three years provision +for their march. + +The religion of the North was military; if they could not find enemies, +it was their duty to make them: they travelled in quest of danger, and +willingly took the chance of Empire or Death. If their troops were +numerous, the countries from which they were collected are of vast +extent, and without much exuberance of people great armies may be raised +where every man is a soldier. But their true numbers were never known. +Those who were conquered by them are their historians, and shame may have +excited them to say, that they were overwhelmed with multitudes. To +count is a modern practice, the ancient method was to guess; and when +numbers are guessed they are always magnified. + +Thus England has for several years been filled with the atchievements of +seventy thousand Highlanders employed in America. I have heard from an +English officer, not much inclined to favour them, that their behaviour +deserved a very high degree of military praise; but their number has been +much exaggerated. One of the ministers told me, that seventy thousand +men could not have been found in all the Highlands, and that more than +twelve thousand never took the field. Those that went to the American +war, went to destruction. Of the old Highland regiment, consisting of +twelve hundred, only seventy-six survived to see their country again. + +The Gothick swarms have at least been multiplied with equal liberality. +That they bore no great proportion to the inhabitants, in whose countries +they settled, is plain from the paucity of northern words now found in +the provincial languages. Their country was not deserted for want of +room, because it was covered with forests of vast extent; and the first +effect of plenitude of inhabitants is the destruction of wood. As the +Europeans spread over America the lands are gradually laid naked. + +I would not be understood to say, that necessity had never any part in +their expeditions. A nation, whose agriculture is scanty or unskilful, +may be driven out by famine. A nation of hunters may have exhausted +their game. I only affirm that the northern regions were not, when their +irruptions subdued the Romans, overpeopled with regard to their real +extent of territory, and power of fertility. In a country fully +inhabited, however afterward laid waste, evident marks will remain of its +former populousness. But of Scandinavia and Germany, nothing is known +but that as we trace their state upwards into antiquity, their woods were +greater, and their cultivated ground was less. + +That causes were different from want of room may produce a general +disposition to seek another country is apparent from the present conduct +of the Highlanders, who are in some places ready to threaten a total +secession. The numbers which have already gone, though like other +numbers they may be magnified, are very great, and such as if they had +gone together and agreed upon any certain settlement, might have founded +an independent government in the depths of the western continent. Nor +are they only the lowest and most indigent; many men of considerable +wealth have taken with them their train of labourers and dependants; and +if they continue the feudal scheme of polity, may establish new clans in +the other hemisphere. + +That the immediate motives of their desertion must be imputed to their +landlords, may be reasonably concluded, because some Lairds of more +prudence and less rapacity have kept their vassals undiminished. From +Raasa only one man had been seduced, and at Col there was no wish to go +away. + +The traveller who comes hither from more opulent countries, to speculate +upon the remains of pastoral life, will not much wonder that a common +Highlander has no strong adherence to his native soil; for of animal +enjoyments, or of physical good, he leaves nothing that he may not find +again wheresoever he may be thrown. + +The habitations of men in the Hebrides may be distinguished into huts and +houses. By a house, I mean a building with one story over another; by a +hut, a dwelling with only one floor. The Laird, who formerly lived in a +castle, now lives in a house; sometimes sufficiently neat, but seldom +very spacious or splendid. The Tacksmen and the Ministers have commonly +houses. Wherever there is a house, the stranger finds a welcome, and to +the other evils of exterminating Tacksmen may be added the unavoidable +cessation of hospitality, or the devolution of too heavy a burden on the +Ministers. + +Of the houses little can be said. They are small, and by the necessity +of accumulating stores, where there are so few opportunities of purchase, +the rooms are very heterogeneously filled. With want of cleanliness it +were ingratitude to reproach them. The servants having been bred upon +the naked earth, think every floor clean, and the quick succession of +guests, perhaps not always over-elegant, does not allow much time for +adjusting their apartments. + +Huts are of many gradations; from murky dens, to commodious dwellings. + +The wall of a common hut is always built without mortar, by a skilful +adaptation of loose stones. Sometimes perhaps a double wall of stones is +raised, and the intermediate space filled with earth. The air is thus +completely excluded. Some walls are, I think, formed of turfs, held +together by a wattle, or texture of twigs. Of the meanest huts, the +first room is lighted by the entrance, and the second by the smoke hole. +The fire is usually made in the middle. But there are huts, or dwellings +of only one story, inhabited by gentlemen, which have walls cemented with +mortar, glass windows, and boarded floors. Of these all have chimneys, +and some chimneys have grates. + +The house and the furniture are not always nicely suited. We were driven +once, by missing a passage, to the hut of a gentleman, where, after a +very liberal supper, when I was conducted to my chamber, I found an +elegant bed of Indian cotton, spread with fine sheets. The accommodation +was flattering; I undressed myself, and felt my feet in the mire. The +bed stood upon the bare earth, which a long course of rain had softened +to a puddle. + +In pastoral countries the condition of the lowest rank of people is +sufficiently wretched. Among manufacturers, men that have no property +may have art and industry, which make them necessary, and therefore +valuable. But where flocks and corn are the only wealth, there are +always more hands than work, and of that work there is little in which +skill and dexterity can be much distinguished. He therefore who is born +poor never can be rich. The son merely occupies the place of the father, +and life knows nothing of progression or advancement. + +The petty tenants, and labouring peasants, live in miserable cabins, +which afford them little more than shelter from the storms. The Boor of +Norway is said to make all his own utensils. In the Hebrides, whatever +might be their ingenuity, the want of wood leaves them no materials. They +are probably content with such accommodations as stones of different +forms and sizes can afford them. + +Their food is not better than their lodging. They seldom taste the flesh +of land animals; for here are no markets. What each man eats is from his +own stock. The great effect of money is to break property into small +parts. In towns, he that has a shilling may have a piece of meat; but +where there is no commerce, no man can eat mutton but by killing a sheep. + +Fish in fair weather they need not want; but, I believe, man never lives +long on fish, but by constraint; he will rather feed upon roots and +berries. + +The only fewel of the Islands is peat. Their wood is all consumed, and +coal they have not yet found. Peat is dug out of the marshes, from the +depth of one foot to that of six. That is accounted the best which is +nearest the surface. It appears to be a mass of black earth held +together by vegetable fibres. I know not whether the earth be +bituminous, or whether the fibres be not the only combustible part; +which, by heating the interposed earth red hot, make a burning mass. The +heat is not very strong nor lasting. The ashes are yellowish, and in a +large quantity. When they dig peat, they cut it into square pieces, and +pile it up to dry beside the house. In some places it has an offensive +smell. It is like wood charked for the smith. The common method of +making peat fires, is by heaping it on the hearth; but it burns well in +grates, and in the best houses is so used. + +The common opinion is, that peat grows again where it has been cut; +which, as it seems to be chiefly a vegetable substance, is not unlikely +to be true, whether known or not to those who relate it. + +There are water mills in Sky and Raasa; but where they are too far +distant, the house-wives grind their oats with a quern, or hand-mill, +which consists of two stones, about a foot and a half in diameter; the +lower is a little convex, to which the concavity of the upper must be +fitted. In the middle of the upper stone is a round hole, and on one +side is a long handle. The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the +hole with one hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn +slides down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the +upper is ground in its passage. These stones are found in Lochabar. + +The Islands afford few pleasures, except to the hardy sportsman, who can +tread the moor and climb the mountain. The distance of one family from +another, in a country where travelling has so much difficulty, makes +frequent intercourse impracticable. Visits last several days, and are +commonly paid by water; yet I never saw a boat furnished with benches, or +made commodious by any addition to the first fabric. Conveniences are +not missed where they never were enjoyed. + +The solace which the bagpipe can give, they have long enjoyed; but among +other changes, which the last Revolution introduced, the use of the +bagpipe begins to be forgotten. Some of the chief families still +entertain a piper, whose office was anciently hereditary. Macrimmon was +piper to Macleod, and Rankin to Maclean of Col. + +The tunes of the bagpipe are traditional. There has been in Sky, beyond +all time of memory, a college of pipers, under the direction of +Macrimmon, which is not quite extinct. There was another in Mull, +superintended by Rankin, which expired about sixteen years ago. To these +colleges, while the pipe retained its honour, the students of musick +repaired for education. I have had my dinner exhilarated by the bagpipe, +at Armidale, at Dunvegan, and in Col. + +The general conversation of the Islanders has nothing particular. I did +not meet with the inquisitiveness of which I have read, and suspect the +judgment to have been rashly made. A stranger of curiosity comes into a +place where a stranger is seldom seen: he importunes the people with +questions, of which they cannot guess the motive, and gazes with surprise +on things which they, having had them always before their eyes, do not +suspect of any thing wonderful. He appears to them like some being of +another world, and then thinks it peculiar that they take their turn to +inquire whence he comes, and whither he is going. + +The Islands were long unfurnished with instruction for youth, and none +but the sons of gentlemen could have any literature. There are now +parochial schools, to which the lord of every manor pays a certain +stipend. Here the children are taught to read; but by the rule of their +institution, they teach only English, so that the natives read a language +which they may never use or understand. If a parish, which often +happens, contains several Islands, the school being but in one, cannot +assist the rest. This is the state of Col, which, however, is more +enlightened than some other places; for the deficiency is supplied by a +young gentleman, who, for his own improvement, travels every year on foot +over the Highlands to the session at Aberdeen; and at his return, during +the vacation, teaches to read and write in his native Island. + +In Sky there are two grammar schools, where boarders are taken to be +regularly educated. The price of board is from three pounds, to four +pounds ten shillings a year, and that of instruction is half a crown a +quarter. But the scholars are birds of passage, who live at school only +in the summer; for in winter provisions cannot be made for any +considerable number in one place. This periodical dispersion impresses +strongly the scarcity of these countries. + +Having heard of no boarding-school for ladies nearer than Inverness, I +suppose their education is generally domestick. The elder daughters of +the higher families are sent into the world, and may contribute by their +acquisitions to the improvement of the rest. + +Women must here study to be either pleasing or useful. Their +deficiencies are seldom supplied by very liberal fortunes. A hundred +pounds is a portion beyond the hope of any but the Laird's daughter. They +do not indeed often give money with their daughters; the question is, How +many cows a young lady will bring her husband. A rich maiden has from +ten to forty; but two cows are a decent fortune for one who pretends to +no distinction. + +The religion of the Islands is that of the Kirk of Scotland. The +gentlemen with whom I conversed are all inclined to the English liturgy; +but they are obliged to maintain the established Minister, and the +country is too poor to afford payment to another, who must live wholly on +the contribution of his audience. + +They therefore all attend the worship of the Kirk, as often as a visit +from their Minister, or the practicability of travelling gives them +opportunity; nor have they any reason to complain of insufficient +pastors; for I saw not one in the Islands, whom I had reason to think +either deficient in learning, or irregular in life: but found several +with whom I could not converse without wishing, as my respect increased, +that they had not been Presbyterians. + +The ancient rigour of puritanism is now very much relaxed, though all are +not yet equally enlightened. I sometimes met with prejudices +sufficiently malignant, but they were prejudices of ignorance. The +Ministers in the Islands had attained such knowledge as may justly be +admired in men, who have no motive to study, but generous curiosity, or, +what is still better, desire of usefulness; with such politeness as so +narrow a circle of converse could not have supplied, but to minds +naturally disposed to elegance. + +Reason and truth will prevail at last. The most learned of the Scottish +Doctors would now gladly admit a form of prayer, if the people would +endure it. The zeal or rage of congregations has its different degrees. +In some parishes the Lord's Prayer is suffered: in others it is still +rejected as a form; and he that should make it part of his supplication +would be suspected of heretical pravity. + +The principle upon which extemporary prayer was originally introduced, is +no longer admitted. The Minister formerly, in the effusion of his +prayer, expected immediate, and perhaps perceptible inspiration, and +therefore thought it his duty not to think before what he should say. It +is now universally confessed, that men pray as they speak on other +occasions, according to the general measure of their abilities and +attainments. Whatever each may think of a form prescribed by another, he +cannot but believe that he can himself compose by study and meditation a +better prayer than will rise in his mind at a sudden call; and if he has +any hope of supernatural help, why may he not as well receive it when he +writes as when he speaks? + +In the variety of mental powers, some must perform extemporary prayer +with much imperfection; and in the eagerness and rashness of +contradictory opinions, if publick liturgy be left to the private +judgment of every Minister, the congregation may often be offended or +misled. + +There is in Scotland, as among ourselves, a restless suspicion of popish +machinations, and a clamour of numerous converts to the Romish religion. +The report is, I believe, in both parts of the Island equally false. The +Romish religion is professed only in Egg and Canna, two small islands, +into which the Reformation never made its way. If any missionaries are +busy in the Highlands, their zeal entitles them to respect, even from +those who cannot think favourably of their doctrine. + +The political tenets of the Islanders I was not curious to investigate, +and they were not eager to obtrude. Their conversation is decent and +inoffensive. They disdain to drink for their principles, and there is no +disaffection at their tables. I never heard a health offered by a +Highlander that might not have circulated with propriety within the +precincts of the King's palace. + +Legal government has yet something of novelty to which they cannot +perfectly conform. The ancient spirit, that appealed only to the sword, +is yet among them. The tenant of Scalpa, an island belonging to +Macdonald, took no care to bring his rent; when the landlord talked of +exacting payment, he declared his resolution to keep his ground, and +drive all intruders from the Island, and continued to feed his cattle as +on his own land, till it became necessary for the Sheriff to dislodge him +by violence. + +The various kinds of superstition which prevailed here, as in all other +regions of ignorance, are by the diligence of the Ministers almost +extirpated. + +Of Browny, mentioned by Martin, nothing has been heard for many years. +Browny was a sturdy Fairy; who, if he was fed, and kindly treated, would, +as they said, do a great deal of work. They now pay him no wages, and +are content to labour for themselves. + +In Troda, within these three-and-thirty years, milk was put every +Saturday for Greogach, or 'the Old Man with the Long Beard.' Whether +Greogach was courted as kind, or dreaded as terrible, whether they meant, +by giving him the milk, to obtain good, or avert evil, I was not +informed. The Minister is now living by whom the practice was abolished. + +They have still among them a great number of charms for the cure of +different diseases; they are all invocations, perhaps transmitted to them +from the times of popery, which increasing knowledge will bring into +disuse. + +They have opinions, which cannot be ranked with superstition, because +they regard only natural effects. They expect better crops of grain, by +sowing their seed in the moon's increase. The moon has great influence +in vulgar philosophy. In my memory it was a precept annually given in +one of the English Almanacks, 'to kill hogs when the moon was increasing, +and the bacon would prove the better in boiling.' + +We should have had little claim to the praise of curiosity, if we had not +endeavoured with particular attention to examine the question of the +Second Sight. Of an opinion received for centuries by a whole nation, +and supposed to be confirmed through its whole descent, by a series of +successive facts, it is desirable that the truth should be established, +or the fallacy detected. + +The Second Sight is an impression made either by the mind upon the eye, +or by the eye upon the mind, by which things distant or future are +perceived, and seen as if they were present. A man on a journey far from +home falls from his horse, another, who is perhaps at work about the +house, sees him bleeding on the ground, commonly with a landscape of the +place where the accident befalls him. Another seer, driving home his +cattle, or wandering in idleness, or musing in the sunshine, is suddenly +surprised by the appearance of a bridal ceremony, or funeral procession, +and counts the mourners or attendants, of whom, if he knows them, he +relates the names, if he knows them not, he can describe the dresses. +Things distant are seen at the instant when they happen. Of things +future I know not that there is any rule for determining the time between +the Sight and the event. + +This receptive faculty, for power it cannot be called, is neither +voluntary nor constant. The appearances have no dependence upon choice: +they cannot be summoned, detained, or recalled. The impression is +sudden, and the effect often painful. + +By the term Second Sight, seems to be meant a mode of seeing, superadded +to that which Nature generally bestows. In the Earse it is called +Taisch; which signifies likewise a spectre, or a vision. I know not, nor +is it likely that the Highlanders ever examined, whether by Taisch, used +for Second Sight, they mean the power of seeing, or the thing seen. + +I do not find it to be true, as it is reported, that to the Second Sight +nothing is presented but phantoms of evil. Good seems to have the same +proportions in those visionary scenes, as it obtains in real life: almost +all remarkable events have evil for their basis; and are either miseries +incurred, or miseries escaped. Our sense is so much stronger of what we +suffer, than of what we enjoy, that the ideas of pain predominate in +almost every mind. What is recollection but a revival of vexations, or +history but a record of wars, treasons, and calamities? Death, which is +considered as the greatest evil, happens to all. The greatest good, be +it what it will, is the lot but of a part. + +That they should often see death is to be expected; because death is an +event frequent and important. But they see likewise more pleasing +incidents. A gentleman told me, that when he had once gone far from his +own Island, one of his labouring servants predicted his return, and +described the livery of his attendant, which he had never worn at home; +and which had been, without any previous design, occasionally given him. + +Our desire of information was keen, and our inquiry frequent. Mr. +Boswell's frankness and gaiety made every body communicative; and we +heard many tales of these airy shows, with more or less evidence and +distinctness. + +It is the common talk of the Lowland Scots, that the notion of the Second +Sight is wearing away with other superstitions; and that its reality is +no longer supposed, but by the grossest people. How far its prevalence +ever extended, or what ground it has lost, I know not. The Islanders of +all degrees, whether of rank or understanding, universally admit it, +except the Ministers, who universally deny it, and are suspected to deny +it, in consequence of a system, against conviction. One of them honestly +told me, that he came to Sky with a resolution not to believe it. + +Strong reasons for incredulity will readily occur. This faculty of +seeing things out of sight is local, and commonly useless. It is a +breach of the common order of things, without any visible reason or +perceptible benefit. It is ascribed only to a people very little +enlightened; and among them, for the most part, to the mean and the +ignorant. + +To the confidence of these objections it may be replied, that by +presuming to determine what is fit, and what is beneficial, they +presuppose more knowledge of the universal system than man has attained; +and therefore depend upon principles too complicated and extensive for +our comprehension; and that there can be no security in the consequence, +when the premises are not understood; that the Second Sight is only +wonderful because it is rare, for, considered in itself, it involves no +more difficulty than dreams, or perhaps than the regular exercise of the +cogitative faculty; that a general opinion of communicative impulses, or +visionary representations, has prevailed in all ages and all nations; +that particular instances have been given, with such evidence, as neither +Bacon nor Bayle has been able to resist; that sudden impressions, which +the event has verified, have been felt by more than own or publish them; +that the Second Sight of the Hebrides implies only the local frequency of +a power, which is nowhere totally unknown; and that where we are unable +to decide by antecedent reason, we must be content to yield to the force +of testimony. + +By pretension to Second Sight, no profit was ever sought or gained. It +is an involuntary affection, in which neither hope nor fear are known to +have any part. Those who profess to feel it, do not boast of it as a +privilege, nor are considered by others as advantageously distinguished. +They have no temptation to feign; and their hearers have no motive to +encourage the imposture. + +To talk with any of these seers is not easy. There is one living in Sky, +with whom we would have gladly conversed; but he was very gross and +ignorant, and knew no English. The proportion in these countries of the +poor to the rich is such, that if we suppose the quality to be +accidental, it can very rarely happen to a man of education; and yet on +such men it has sometimes fallen. There is now a Second Sighted +gentleman in the Highlands, who complains of the terrors to which he is +exposed. + +The foresight of the Seers is not always prescience; they are impressed +with images, of which the event only shews them the meaning. They tell +what they have seen to others, who are at that time not more knowing than +themselves, but may become at last very adequate witnesses, by comparing +the narrative with its verification. + +To collect sufficient testimonies for the satisfaction of the publick, or +of ourselves, would have required more time than we could bestow. There +is, against it, the seeming analogy of things confusedly seen, and little +understood, and for it, the indistinct cry of national persuasion, which +may be perhaps resolved at last into prejudice and tradition. I never +could advance my curiosity to conviction; but came away at last only +willing to believe. + +As there subsists no longer in the Islands much of that peculiar and +discriminative form of life, of which the idea had delighted our +imagination, we were willing to listen to such accounts of past times as +would be given us. But we soon found what memorials were to be expected +from an illiterate people, whose whole time is a series of distress; +where every morning is labouring with expedients for the evening; and +where all mental pains or pleasure arose from the dread of winter, the +expectation of spring, the caprices of their Chiefs, and the motions of +the neighbouring clans; where there was neither shame from ignorance, nor +pride in knowledge; neither curiosity to inquire, nor vanity to +communicate. + +The Chiefs indeed were exempt from urgent penury, and daily difficulties; +and in their houses were preserved what accounts remained of past ages. +But the Chiefs were sometimes ignorant and careless, and sometimes kept +busy by turbulence and contention; and one generation of ignorance +effaces the whole series of unwritten history. Books are faithful +repositories, which may be a while neglected or forgotten; but when they +are opened again, will again impart their instruction: memory, once +interrupted, is not to be recalled. Written learning is a fixed +luminary, which, after the cloud that had hidden it has past away, is +again bright in its proper station. Tradition is but a meteor, which, if +once it falls, cannot be rekindled. + +It seems to be universally supposed, that much of the local history was +preserved by the Bards, of whom one is said to have been retained by +every great family. After these Bards were some of my first inquiries; +and I received such answers as, for a while, made me please myself with +my increase of knowledge; for I had not then learned how to estimate the +narration of a Highlander. + +They said that a great family had a Bard and a Senachi, who were the poet +and historian of the house; and an old gentleman told me that he +remembered one of each. Here was a dawn of intelligence. Of men that +had lived within memory, some certain knowledge might be attained. Though +the office had ceased, its effects might continue; the poems might be +found, though there was no poet. + +Another conversation indeed informed me, that the same man was both Bard +and Senachi. This variation discouraged me; but as the practice might be +different in different times, or at the same time in different families, +there was yet no reason for supposing that I must necessarily sit down in +total ignorance. + +Soon after I was told by a gentleman, who is generally acknowledged the +greatest master of Hebridian antiquities, that there had indeed once been +both Bards and Senachies; and that Senachi signified 'the man of talk,' +or of conversation; but that neither Bard nor Senachi had existed for +some centuries. I have no reason to suppose it exactly known at what +time the custom ceased, nor did it probably cease in all houses at once. +But whenever the practice of recitation was disused, the works, whether +poetical or historical, perished with the authors; for in those times +nothing had been written in the Earse language. + +Whether the 'Man of talk' was a historian, whose office was to tell +truth, or a story-teller, like those which were in the last century, and +perhaps are now among the Irish, whose trade was only to amuse, it now +would be vain to inquire. + +Most of the domestick offices were, I believe, hereditary; and probably +the laureat of a clan was always the son of the last laureat. The +history of the race could no otherwise be communicated, or retained; but +what genius could be expected in a poet by inheritance? + +The nation was wholly illiterate. Neither bards nor Senachies could +write or read; but if they were ignorant, there was no danger of +detection; they were believed by those whose vanity they flattered. + +The recital of genealogies, which has been considered as very efficacious +to the preservation of a true series of ancestry, was anciently made, +when the heir of the family came to manly age. This practice has never +subsisted within time of memory, nor was much credit due to such +rehearsers, who might obtrude fictitious pedigrees, either to please +their masters, or to hide the deficiency of their own memories. + +Where the Chiefs of the Highlands have found the histories of their +descent is difficult to tell; for no Earse genealogy was ever written. In +general this only is evident, that the principal house of a clan must be +very ancient, and that those must have lived long in a place, of whom it +is not known when they came thither. + +Thus hopeless are all attempts to find any traces of Highland learning. +Nor are their primitive customs and ancient manner of life otherwise than +very faintly and uncertainly remembered by the present race. + +The peculiarities which strike the native of a commercial country, +proceeded in a great measure from the want of money. To the servants and +dependents that were not domesticks, and if an estimate be made from the +capacity of any of their old houses which I have seen, their domesticks +could have been but few, were appropriated certain portions of land for +their support. Macdonald has a piece of ground yet, called the Bards or +Senachies field. When a beef was killed for the house, particular parts +were claimed as fees by the several officers, or workmen. What was the +right of each I have not learned. The head belonged to the smith, and +the udder of a cow to the piper: the weaver had likewise his particular +part; and so many pieces followed these prescriptive claims, that the +Laird's was at last but little. + +The payment of rent in kind has been so long disused in England, that it +is totally forgotten. It was practised very lately in the Hebrides, and +probably still continues, not only in St. Kilda, where money is not yet +known, but in others of the smaller and remoter Islands. It were perhaps +to be desired, that no change in this particular should have been made. +When the Laird could only eat the produce of his lands, he was under the +necessity of residing upon them; and when the tenant could not convert +his stock into more portable riches, he could never be tempted away from +his farm, from the only place where he could be wealthy. Money confounds +subordination, by overpowering the distinctions of rank and birth, and +weakens authority by supplying power of resistance, or expedients for +escape. The feudal system is formed for a nation employed in +agriculture, and has never long kept its hold where gold and silver have +become common. + +Their arms were anciently the Glaymore, or great two-handed sword, and +afterwards the two-edged sword and target, or buckler, which was +sustained on the left arm. In the midst of the target, which was made of +wood, covered with leather, and studded with nails, a slender lance, +about two feet long, was sometimes fixed; it was heavy and cumberous, and +accordingly has for some time past been gradually laid aside. Very few +targets were at Culloden. The dirk, or broad dagger, I am afraid, was of +more use in private quarrels than in battles. The Lochaber-ax is only a +slight alteration of the old English bill. + +After all that has been said of the force and terrour of the Highland +sword, I could not find that the art of defence was any part of common +education. The gentlemen were perhaps sometimes skilful gladiators, but +the common men had no other powers than those of violence and courage. +Yet it is well known, that the onset of the Highlanders was very +formidable. As an army cannot consist of philosophers, a panick is +easily excited by any unwonted mode of annoyance. New dangers are +naturally magnified; and men accustomed only to exchange bullets at a +distance, and rather to hear their enemies than see them, are discouraged +and amazed when they find themselves encountered hand to hand, and catch +the gleam of steel flashing in their faces. + +The Highland weapons gave opportunity for many exertions of personal +courage, and sometimes for single combats in the field; like those which +occur so frequently in fabulous wars. At Falkirk, a gentleman now +living, was, I suppose after the retreat of the King's troops, engaged at +a distance from the rest with an Irish dragoon. They were both skilful +swordsmen, and the contest was not easily decided: the dragoon at last +had the advantage, and the Highlander called for quarter; but quarter was +refused him, and the fight continued till he was reduced to defend +himself upon his knee. At that instant one of the Macleods came to his +rescue; who, as it is said, offered quarter to the dragoon, but he +thought himself obliged to reject what he had before refused, and, as +battle gives little time to deliberate, was immediately killed. + +Funerals were formerly solemnized by calling multitudes together, and +entertaining them at great expence. This emulation of useless cost has +been for some time discouraged, and at last in the Isle of Sky is almost +suppressed. + +Of the Earse language, as I understand nothing, I cannot say more than I +have been told. It is the rude speech of a barbarous people, who had few +thoughts to express, and were content, as they conceived grossly, to be +grossly understood. After what has been lately talked of Highland Bards, +and Highland genius, many will startle when they are told, that the Earse +never was a written language; that there is not in the world an Earse +manuscript a hundred years old; and that the sounds of the Highlanders +were never expressed by letters, till some little books of piety were +translated, and a metrical version of the Psalms was made by the Synod of +Argyle. Whoever therefore now writes in this language, spells according +to his own perception of the sound, and his own idea of the power of the +letters. The Welsh and the Irish are cultivated tongues. The Welsh, two +hundred years ago, insulted their English neighbours for the instability +of their Orthography; while the Earse merely floated in the breath of the +people, and could therefore receive little improvement. + +When a language begins to teem with books, it is tending to refinement; +as those who undertake to teach others must have undergone some labour in +improving themselves, they set a proportionate value on their own +thoughts, and wish to enforce them by efficacious expressions; speech +becomes embodied and permanent; different modes and phrases are compared, +and the best obtains an establishment. By degrees one age improves upon +another. Exactness is first obtained, and afterwards elegance. But +diction, merely vocal, is always in its childhood. As no man leaves his +eloquence behind him, the new generations have all to learn. There may +possibly be books without a polished language, but there can be no +polished language without books. + +That the Bards could not read more than the rest of their countrymen, it +is reasonable to suppose; because, if they had read, they could probably +have written; and how high their compositions may reasonably be rated, an +inquirer may best judge by considering what stores of imagery, what +principles of ratiocination, what comprehension of knowledge, and what +delicacy of elocution he has known any man attain who cannot read. The +state of the Bards was yet more hopeless. He that cannot read, may now +converse with those that can; but the Bard was a barbarian among +barbarians, who, knowing nothing himself, lived with others that knew no +more. + +There has lately been in the Islands one of these illiterate poets, who +hearing the Bible read at church, is said to have turned the sacred +history into verse. I heard part of a dialogue, composed by him, +translated by a young lady in Mull, and thought it had more meaning than +I expected from a man totally uneducated; but he had some opportunities +of knowledge; he lived among a learned people. After all that has been +done for the instruction of the Highlanders, the antipathy between their +language and literature still continues; and no man that has learned only +Earse is, at this time, able to read. + +The Earse has many dialects, and the words used in some Islands are not +always known in others. In literate nations, though the pronunciation, +and sometimes the words of common speech may differ, as now in England, +compared with the South of Scotland, yet there is a written diction, +which pervades all dialects, and is understood in every province. But +where the whole language is colloquial, he that has only one part, never +gets the rest, as he cannot get it but by change of residence. + +In an unwritten speech, nothing that is not very short is transmitted +from one generation to another. Few have opportunities of hearing a long +composition often enough to learn it, or have inclination to repeat it so +often as is necessary to retain it; and what is once forgotten is lost +for ever. I believe there cannot be recovered, in the whole Earse +language, five hundred lines of which there is any evidence to prove them +a hundred years old. Yet I hear that the father of Ossian boasts of two +chests more of ancient poetry, which he suppresses, because they are too +good for the English. + +He that goes into the Highlands with a mind naturally acquiescent, and a +credulity eager for wonders, may come back with an opinion very different +from mine; for the inhabitants knowing the ignorance of all strangers in +their language and antiquities, perhaps are not very scrupulous adherents +to truth; yet I do not say that they deliberately speak studied +falsehood, or have a settled purpose to deceive. They have inquired and +considered little, and do not always feel their own ignorance. They are +not much accustomed to be interrogated by others; and seem never to have +thought upon interrogating themselves; so that if they do not know what +they tell to be true, they likewise do not distinctly perceive it to be +false. + +Mr. Boswell was very diligent in his inquiries; and the result of his +investigations was, that the answer to the second question was commonly +such as nullified the answer to the first. + +We were a while told, that they had an old translation of the scriptures; +and told it till it would appear obstinacy to inquire again. Yet by +continued accumulation of questions we found, that the translation meant, +if any meaning there were, was nothing else than the Irish Bible. + +We heard of manuscripts that were, or that had been in the hands of +somebody's father, or grandfather; but at last we had no reason to +believe they were other than Irish. Martin mentions Irish, but never any +Earse manuscripts, to be found in the Islands in his time. + +I suppose my opinion of the poems of Ossian is already discovered. I +believe they never existed in any other form than that which we have +seen. The editor, or author, never could shew the original; nor can it +be shewn by any other; to revenge reasonable incredulity, by refusing +evidence, is a degree of insolence, with which the world is not yet +acquainted; and stubborn audacity is the last refuge of guilt. It would +be easy to shew it if he had it; but whence could it be had? It is too +long to be remembered, and the language formerly had nothing written. He +has doubtless inserted names that circulate in popular stories, and may +have translated some wandering ballads, if any can be found; and the +names, and some of the images being recollected, make an inaccurate +auditor imagine, by the help of Caledonian bigotry, that he has formerly +heard the whole. + +I asked a very learned Minister in Sky, who had used all arts to make me +believe the genuineness of the book, whether at last he believed it +himself? but he would not answer. He wished me to be deceived, for the +honour of his country; but would not directly and formally deceive me. +Yet has this man's testimony been publickly produced, as of one that held +Fingal to be the work of Ossian. + +It is said, that some men of integrity profess to have heard parts of it, +but they all heard them when they were boys; and it was never said that +any of them could recite six lines. They remember names, and perhaps +some proverbial sentiments; and, having no distinct ideas, coin a +resemblance without an original. The persuasion of the Scots, however, +is far from universal; and in a question so capable of proof, why should +doubt be suffered to continue? The editor has been heard to say, that +part of the poem was received by him, in the Saxon character. He has +then found, by some peculiar fortune, an unwritten language, written in a +character which the natives probably never beheld. + +I have yet supposed no imposture but in the publisher, yet I am far from +certainty, that some translations have not been lately made, that may now +be obtruded as parts of the original work. Credulity on one part is a +strong temptation to deceit on the other, especially to deceit of which +no personal injury is the consequence, and which flatters the author with +his own ingenuity. The Scots have something to plead for their easy +reception of an improbable fiction; they are seduced by their fondness +for their supposed ancestors. A Scotchman must be a very sturdy +moralist, who does not love Scotland better than truth: he will always +love it better than inquiry; and if falsehood flatters his vanity, will +not be very diligent to detect it. Neither ought the English to be much +influenced by Scotch authority; for of the past and present state of the +whole Earse nation, the Lowlanders are at least as ignorant as ourselves. +To be ignorant is painful; but it is dangerous to quiet our uneasiness by +the delusive opiate of hasty persuasion. + +But this is the age, in which those who could not read, have been +supposed to write; in which the giants of antiquated romance have been +exhibited as realities. If we know little of the ancient Highlanders, +let us not fill the vacuity with Ossian. If we had not searched the +Magellanick regions, let us however forbear to people them with Patagons. + +Having waited some days at Armidel, we were flattered at last with a wind +that promised to convey us to Mull. We went on board a boat that was +taking in kelp, and left the Isle of Sky behind us. We were doomed to +experience, like others, the danger of trusting to the wind, which blew +against us, in a short time, with such violence, that we, being no +seasoned sailors, were willing to call it a tempest. I was sea-sick and +lay down. Mr. Boswell kept the deck. The master knew not well whither +to go; and our difficulties might perhaps have filled a very pathetick +page, had not Mr. Maclean of Col, who, with every other qualification +which insular life requires, is a very active and skilful mariner, +piloted us safe into his own harbour. + + + + +COL + + +In the morning we found ourselves under the Isle of Col, where we landed; +and passed the first day and night with Captain Maclean, a gentleman who +has lived some time in the East Indies; but having dethroned no Nabob, is +not too rich to settle in own country. + +Next day the wind was fair, and we might have had an easy passage to +Mull; but having, contrarily to our own intention, landed upon a new +Island, we would not leave it wholly unexamined. We therefore suffered +the vessel to depart without us, and trusted the skies for another wind. + +Mr. Maclean of Col, having a very numerous family, has, for some time +past, resided at Aberdeen, that he may superintend their education, and +leaves the young gentleman, our friend, to govern his dominions, with the +full power of a Highland Chief. By the absence of the Laird's family, +our entertainment was made more difficult, because the house was in a +great degree disfurnished; but young Col's kindness and activity supplied +all defects, and procured us more than sufficient accommodation. + +Here I first mounted a little Highland steed; and if there had been many +spectators, should have been somewhat ashamed of my figure in the march. +The horses of the Islands, as of other barren countries, are very low: +they are indeed musculous and strong, beyond what their size gives reason +for expecting; but a bulky man upon one of their backs makes a very +disproportionate appearance. + +From the habitation of Captain Maclean, we went to Grissipol, but called +by the way on Mr. Hector Maclean, the Minister of Col, whom we found in a +hut, that is, a house of only one floor, but with windows and chimney, +and not inelegantly furnished. Mr. Maclean has the reputation of great +learning: he is seventy-seven years old, but not infirm, with a look of +venerable dignity, excelling what I remember in any other man. + +His conversation was not unsuitable to his appearance. I lost some of +his good-will, by treating a heretical writer with more regard than, in +his opinion, a heretick could deserve. I honoured his orthodoxy, and did +not much censure his asperity. A man who has settled his opinions, does +not love to have the tranquillity of his conviction disturbed; and at +seventy-seven it is time to be in earnest. + +Mention was made of the Earse translation of the New Testament, which has +been lately published, and of which the learned Mr. Macqueen of Sky spoke +with commendation; but Mr. Maclean said he did not use it, because he +could make the text more intelligible to his auditors by an extemporary +version. From this I inferred, that the language of the translation was +not the language of the Isle of Col. + +He has no publick edifice for the exercise of his ministry; and can +officiate to no greater number, than a room can contain; and the room of +a hut is not very large. This is all the opportunity of worship that is +now granted to the inhabitants of the Island, some of whom must travel +thither perhaps ten miles. Two chapels were erected by their ancestors, +of which I saw the skeletons, which now stand faithful witnesses of the +triumph of the Reformation. + +The want of churches is not the only impediment to piety: there is +likewise a want of Ministers. A parish often contains more Islands than +one; and each Island can have the Minister only in its own turn. At +Raasa they had, I think, a right to service only every third Sunday. All +the provision made by the present ecclesiastical constitution, for the +inhabitants of about a hundred square miles, is a prayer and sermon in a +little room, once in three weeks: and even this parsimonious distribution +is at the mercy of the weather; and in those Islands where the Minister +does not reside, it is impossible to tell how many weeks or months may +pass without any publick exercise of religion. + + + + +GRISSIPOL IN COL + + +After a short conversation with Mr. Maclean, we went on to Grissipol, a +house and farm tenanted by Mr. Macsweyn, where I saw more of the ancient +life of a Highlander, than I had yet found. Mrs. Macsweyn could speak no +English, and had never seen any other places than the Islands of Sky, +Mull, and Col: but she was hospitable and good-humoured, and spread her +table with sufficient liberality. We found tea here, as in every other +place, but our spoons were of horn. + +The house of Grissipol stands by a brook very clear and quick; which is, +I suppose, one of the most copious streams in the Island. This place was +the scene of an action, much celebrated in the traditional history of +Col, but which probably no two relaters will tell alike. + +Some time, in the obscure ages, Macneil of Barra married the Lady +Maclean, who had the Isle of Col for her jointure. Whether Macneil +detained Col, when the widow was dead, or whether she lived so long as to +make her heirs impatient, is perhaps not now known. The younger son, +called John Gerves, or John the Giant, a man of great strength who was +then in Ireland, either for safety, or for education, dreamed of +recovering his inheritance; and getting some adventurers together, which, +in those unsettled times, was not hard to do, invaded Col. He was driven +away, but was not discouraged, and collecting new followers, in three +years came again with fifty men. In his way he stopped at Artorinish in +Morvern, where his uncle was prisoner to Macleod, and was then with his +enemies in a tent. Maclean took with him only one servant, whom he +ordered to stay at the outside; and where he should see the tent pressed +outwards, to strike with his dirk, it being the intention of Maclean, as +any man provoked him, to lay hands upon him, and push him back. He +entered the tent alone, with his Lochabar-axe in his hand, and struck +such terror into the whole assembly, that they dismissed his uncle. + +When he landed at Col, he saw the sentinel, who kept watch towards the +sea, running off to Grissipol, to give Macneil, who was there with a +hundred and twenty men, an account of the invasion. He told Macgill, one +of his followers, that if he intercepted that dangerous intelligence, by +catching the courier, he would give him certain lands in Mull. Upon this +promise, Macgill pursued the messenger, and either killed, or stopped +him; and his posterity, till very lately, held the lands in Mull. + +The alarm being thus prevented, he came unexpectedly upon Macneil. Chiefs +were in those days never wholly unprovided for an enemy. A fight ensued, +in which one of their followers is said to have given an extraordinary +proof of activity, by bounding backwards over the brook of Grissipol. +Macneil being killed, and many of his clan destroyed, Maclean took +possession of the Island, which the Macneils attempted to conquer by +another invasion, but were defeated and repulsed. + +Maclean, in his turn, invaded the estate of the Macneils, took the castle +of Brecacig, and conquered the Isle of Barra, which he held for seven +years, and then restored it to the heirs. + + + + +CASTLE OF COL + + +From Grissipol, Mr. Maclean conducted us to his father's seat; a neat new +house, erected near the old castle, I think, by the last proprietor. Here +we were allowed to take our station, and lived very commodiously, while +we waited for moderate weather and a fair wind, which we did not so soon +obtain, but we had time to get some information of the present state of +Col, partly by inquiry, and partly by occasional excursions. + +Col is computed to be thirteen miles in length, and three in breadth. +Both the ends are the property of the Duke of Argyle, but the middle +belongs to Maclean, who is called Col, as the only Laird. + +Col is not properly rocky; it is rather one continued rock, of a surface +much diversified with protuberances, and covered with a thin layer of +earth, which is often broken, and discovers the stone. Such a soil is +not for plants that strike deep roots; and perhaps in the whole Island +nothing has ever yet grown to the height of a table. The uncultivated +parts are clothed with heath, among which industry has interspersed spots +of grass and corn; but no attempt has yet been made to raise a tree. +Young Col, who has a very laudable desire of improving his patrimony, +purposes some time to plant an orchard; which, if it be sheltered by a +wall, may perhaps succeed. He has introduced the culture of turnips, of +which he has a field, where the whole work was performed by his own hand. +His intention is to provide food for his cattle in the winter. This +innovation was considered by Mr. Macsweyn as the idle project of a young +head, heated with English fancies; but he has now found that turnips will +really grow, and that hungry sheep and cows will really eat them. + +By such acquisitions as these, the Hebrides may in time rise above their +annual distress. Wherever heath will grow, there is reason to think +something better may draw nourishment; and by trying the production of +other places, plants will be found suitable to every soil. + +Col has many lochs, some of which have trouts and eels, and others have +never yet been stocked; another proof of the negligence of the Islanders, +who might take fish in the inland waters, when they cannot go to sea. + +Their quadrupeds are horses, cows, sheep, and goats. They have neither +deer, hares, nor rabbits. They have no vermin, except rats, which have +been lately brought thither by sea, as to other places; and are free from +serpents, frogs, and toads. + +The harvest in Col, and in Lewis, is ripe sooner than in Sky; and the +winter in Col is never cold, but very tempestuous. I know not that I +ever heard the wind so loud in any other place; and Mr. Boswell observed, +that its noise was all its own, for there were no trees to increase it. + +Noise is not the worst effect of the tempests; for they have thrown the +sand from the shore over a considerable part of the land; and it is said +still to encroach and destroy more and more pasture; but I am not of +opinion, that by any surveys or landmarks, its limits have been ever +fixed, or its progression ascertained. If one man has confidence enough +to say, that it advances, nobody can bring any proof to support him in +denying it. The reason why it is not spread to a greater extent, seems +to be, that the wind and rain come almost together, and that it is made +close and heavy by the wet before the storms can put it in motion. So +thick is the bed, and so small the particles, that if a traveller should +be caught by a sudden gust in dry weather, he would find it very +difficult to escape with life. + +For natural curiosities, I was shown only two great masses of stone, +which lie loose upon the ground; one on the top of a hill, and the other +at a small distance from the bottom. They certainly were never put into +their present places by human strength or skill; and though an earthquake +might have broken off the lower stone, and rolled it into the valley, no +account can be given of the other, which lies on the hill, unless, which +I forgot to examine, there be still near it some higher rock, from which +it might be torn. All nations have a tradition, that their earliest +ancestors were giants, and these stones are said to have been thrown up +and down by a giant and his mistress. There are so many more important +things, of which human knowledge can give no account, that it may be +forgiven us, if we speculate no longer on two stones in Col. + +This Island is very populous. About nine-and-twenty years ago, the +fencible men of Col were reckoned one hundred and forty, which is the +sixth of eight hundred and forty; and probably some contrived to be left +out of the list. The Minister told us, that a few years ago the +inhabitants were eight hundred, between the ages of seven and of seventy. +Round numbers are seldom exact. But in this case the authority is good, +and the errour likely to be little. If to the eight hundred be added +what the laws of computation require, they will be increased to at least +a thousand; and if the dimensions of the country have been accurately +related, every mile maintains more than twenty-five. + +This proportion of habitation is greater than the appearance of the +country seems to admit; for wherever the eye wanders, it sees much waste +and little cultivation. I am more inclined to extend the land, of which +no measure has ever been taken, than to diminish the people, who have +been really numbered. Let it be supposed, that a computed mile contains +a mile and a half, as was commonly found true in the mensuration of the +English roads, and we shall then allot nearly twelve to a mile, which +agrees much better with ocular observation. + +Here, as in Sky, and other Islands, are the Laird, the Tacksmen, and the +under tenants. + +Mr. Maclean, the Laird, has very extensive possessions, being proprietor, +not only of far the greater part of Col, but of the extensive Island of +Rum, and a very considerable territory in Mull. + +Rum is one of the larger Islands, almost square, and therefore of great +capacity in proportion to its sides. By the usual method of estimating +computed extent, it may contain more than a hundred and twenty square +miles. + +It originally belonged to Clanronald, and was purchased by Col; who, in +some dispute about the bargain, made Clanronald prisoner, and kept him +nine months in confinement. Its owner represents it as mountainous, +rugged, and barren. In the hills there are red deer. The horses are +very small, but of a breed eminent for beauty. Col, not long ago, bought +one of them from a tenant; who told him, that as he was of a shape +uncommonly elegant, he could not sell him but at a high price; and that +whoever had him should pay a guinea and a half. + +There are said to be in Barra a race of horses yet smaller, of which the +highest is not above thirty-six inches. + +The rent of Rum is not great. Mr. Maclean declared, that he should be +very rich, if he could set his land at two-pence halfpenny an acre. The +inhabitants are fifty-eight families, who continued Papists for some time +after the Laird became a Protestant. Their adherence to their old +religion was strengthened by the countenance of the Laird's sister, a +zealous Romanist, till one Sunday, as they were going to mass under the +conduct of their patroness, Maclean met them on the way, gave one of them +a blow on the head with a yellow stick, I suppose a cane, for which the +Earse had no name, and drove them to the kirk, from which they have never +since departed. Since the use of this method of conversion, the +inhabitants of Egg and Canna, who continue Papists, call the +Protestantism of Rum, the religion of the Yellow Stick. + +The only Popish Islands are Egg and Canna. Egg is the principal Island +of a parish, in which, though he has no congregation, the Protestant +Minister resides. I have heard of nothing curious in it, but the cave in +which a former generation of the Islanders were smothered by Macleod. + +If we had travelled with more leisure, it had not been fit to have +neglected the Popish Islands. Popery is favourable to ceremony; and +among ignorant nations, ceremony is the only preservative of tradition. +Since protestantism was extended to the savage parts of Scotland, it has +perhaps been one of the chief labours of the Ministers to abolish stated +observances, because they continued the remembrance of the former +religion. We therefore who came to hear old traditions, and see +antiquated manners, should probably have found them amongst the Papists. + +Canna, the other Popish Island, belongs to Clanronald. It is said not to +comprise more than twelve miles of land, and yet maintains as many +inhabitants as Rum. + +We were at Col under the protection of the young Laird, without any of +the distresses, which Mr. Pennant, in a fit of simple credulity, seems to +think almost worthy of an elegy by Ossian. Wherever we roved, we were +pleased to see the reverence with which his subjects regarded him. He +did not endeavour to dazzle them by any magnificence of dress: his only +distinction was a feather in his bonnet; but as soon as he appeared, they +forsook their work and clustered about him: he took them by the hand, and +they seemed mutually delighted. He has the proper disposition of a +Chieftain, and seems desirous to continue the customs of his house. The +bagpiper played regularly, when dinner was served, whose person and dress +made a good appearance; and he brought no disgrace upon the family of +Rankin, which has long supplied the Lairds of Col with hereditary musick. + +The Tacksmen of Col seem to live with less dignity and convenience than +those of Sky; where they had good houses, and tables not only plentiful, +but delicate. In Col only two houses pay the window tax; for only two +have six windows, which, I suppose, are the Laird's and Mr. Macsweyn's. + +The rents have, till within seven years, been paid in kind, but the +tenants finding that cattle and corn varied in their price, desired for +the future to give their landlord money; which, not having yet arrived at +the philosophy of commerce, they consider as being every year of the same +value. + +We were told of a particular mode of under-tenure. The Tacksman admits +some of his inferior neighbours to the cultivation of his grounds, on +condition that performing all the work, and giving a third part of the +seed, they shall keep a certain number of cows, sheep, and goats, and +reap a third part of the harvest. Thus by less than the tillage of two +acres they pay the rent of one. + +There are tenants below the rank of Tacksmen, that have got smaller +tenants under them; for in every place, where money is not the general +equivalent, there must be some whose labour is immediately paid by daily +food. + +A country that has no money, is by no means convenient for beggars, both +because such countries are commonly poor, and because charity requires +some trouble and some thought. A penny is easily given upon the first +impulse of compassion, or impatience of importunity; but few will +deliberately search their cupboards or their granaries to find out +something to give. A penny is likewise easily spent, but victuals, if +they are unprepared, require houseroom, and fire, and utensils, which the +beggar knows not where to find. + +Yet beggars there sometimes are, who wander from Island to Island. We +had, in our passage to Mull, the company of a woman and her child, who +had exhausted the charity of Col. The arrival of a beggar on an Island +is accounted a sinistrous event. Every body considers that he shall have +the less for what he gives away. Their alms, I believe, is generally +oatmeal. + +Near to Col is another Island called Tireye, eminent for its fertility. +Though it has but half the extent of Rum, it is so well peopled, that +there have appeared, not long ago, nine hundred and fourteen at a +funeral. The plenty of this Island enticed beggars to it, who seemed so +burdensome to the inhabitants, that a formal compact was drawn up, by +which they obliged themselves to grant no more relief to casual +wanderers, because they had among them an indigent woman of high birth, +whom they considered as entitled to all that they could spare. I have +read the stipulation, which was indited with juridical formality, but was +never made valid by regular subscription. + +If the inhabitants of Col have nothing to give, it is not that they are +oppressed by their landlord: their leases seem to be very profitable. One +farmer, who pays only seven pounds a year, has maintained seven daughters +and three sons, of whom the eldest is educated at Aberdeen for the +ministry; and now, at every vacation, opens a school in Col. + +Life is here, in some respects, improved beyond the condition of some +other Islands. In Sky what is wanted can only be bought, as the arrival +of some wandering pedlar may afford an opportunity; but in Col there is a +standing shop, and in Mull there are two. A shop in the Islands, as in +other places of little frequentation, is a repository of every thing +requisite for common use. Mr. Boswell's journal was filled, and he +bought some paper in Col. To a man that ranges the streets of London, +where he is tempted to contrive wants, for the pleasure of supplying +them, a shop affords no image worthy of attention; but in an Island, it +turns the balance of existence between good and evil. To live in +perpetual want of little things, is a state not indeed of torture, but of +constant vexation. I have in Sky had some difficulty to find ink for a +letter; and if a woman breaks her needle, the work is at a stop. + +As it is, the Islanders are obliged to content themselves with +succedaneous means for many common purposes. I have seen the chief man +of a very wide district riding with a halter for a bridle, and governing +his hobby with a wooden curb. + +The people of Col, however, do not want dexterity to supply some of their +necessities. Several arts which make trades, and demand apprenticeships +in great cities, are here the practices of daily economy. In every house +candles are made, both moulded and dipped. Their wicks are small shreds +of linen cloth. They all know how to extract from the Cuddy, oil for +their lamps. They all tan skins, and make brogues. + +As we travelled through Sky, we saw many cottages, but they very +frequently stood single on the naked ground. In Col, where the hills +opened a place convenient for habitation, we found a petty village, of +which every hut had a little garden adjoining; thus they made an +appearance of social commerce and mutual offices, and of some attention +to convenience and future supply. There is not in the Western Islands +any collection of buildings that can make pretensions to be called a +town, except in the Isle of Lewis, which I have not seen. + +If Lewis is distinguished by a town, Col has also something peculiar. The +young Laird has attempted what no Islander perhaps ever thought on. He +has begun a road capable of a wheel-carriage. He has carried it about a +mile, and will continue it by annual elongation from his house to the +harbour. + +Of taxes here is no reason for complaining; they are paid by a very easy +composition. The malt-tax for Col is twenty shillings. Whisky is very +plentiful: there are several stills in the Island, and more is made than +the inhabitants consume. + +The great business of insular policy is now to keep the people in their +own country. As the world has been let in upon them, they have heard of +happier climates, and less arbitrary government; and if they are +disgusted, have emissaries among them ready to offer them land and +houses, as a reward for deserting their Chief and clan. Many have +departed both from the main of Scotland, and from the Islands; and all +that go may be considered as subjects lost to the British crown; for a +nation scattered in the boundless regions of America resembles rays +diverging from a focus. All the rays remain, but the heat is gone. Their +power consisted in their concentration: when they are dispersed, they +have no effect. + +It may be thought that they are happier by the change; but they are not +happy as a nation, for they are a nation no longer. As they contribute +not to the prosperity of any community, they must want that security, +that dignity, that happiness, whatever it be, which a prosperous +community throws back upon individuals. + +The inhabitants of Col have not yet learned to be weary of their heath +and rocks, but attend their agriculture and their dairies, without +listening to American seducements. + +There are some however who think that this emigration has raised terrour +disproportionate to its real evil; and that it is only a new mode of +doing what was always done. The Highlands, they say, never maintained +their natural inhabitants; but the people, when they found themselves too +numerous, instead of extending cultivation, provided for themselves by a +more compendious method, and sought better fortune in other countries. +They did not indeed go away in collective bodies, but withdrew invisibly, +a few at a time; but the whole number of fugitives was not less, and the +difference between other times and this, is only the same as between +evaporation and effusion. + +This is plausible, but I am afraid it is not true. Those who went +before, if they were not sensibly missed, as the argument supposes, must +have gone either in less number, or in a manner less detrimental, than at +present; because formerly there was no complaint. Those who then left +the country were generally the idle dependants on overburdened families, +or men who had no property; and therefore carried away only themselves. +In the present eagerness of emigration, families, and almost communities, +go away together. Those who were considered as prosperous and wealthy +sell their stock and carry away the money. Once none went away but the +useless and poor; in some parts there is now reason to fear, that none +will stay but those who are too poor to remove themselves, and too +useless to be removed at the cost of others. + +Of antiquity there is not more knowledge in Col than in other places; but +every where something may be gleaned. + +How ladies were portioned, when there was no money, it would be difficult +for an Englishman to guess. In 1649, Maclean of Dronart in Mull married +his sister Fingala to Maclean of Coll, with a hundred and eighty kine; +and stipulated, that if she became a widow, her jointure should be three +hundred and sixty. I suppose some proportionate tract of land was +appropriated to their pasturage. + +The disposition to pompous and expensive funerals, which has at one time +or other prevailed in most parts of the civilized world, is not yet +suppressed in the Islands, though some of the ancient solemnities are +worn away, and singers are no longer hired to attend the procession. +Nineteen years ago, at the burial of the Laird of Col, were killed thirty +cows, and about fifty sheep. The number of the cows is positively told, +and we must suppose other victuals in like proportion. + +Mr. Maclean informed us of an odd game, of which he did not tell the +original, but which may perhaps be used in other places, where the reason +of it is not yet forgot. At New-year's eve, in the hall or castle of the +Laird, where, at festal seasons, there may be supposed a very numerous +company, one man dresses himself in a cow's hide, upon which other men +beat with sticks. He runs with all this noise round the house, which all +the company quits in a counterfeited fright: the door is then shut. At +New-year's eve there is no great pleasure to be had out of doors in the +Hebrides. They are sure soon to recover from their terrour enough to +solicit for re-admission; which, for the honour of poetry, is not to be +obtained but by repeating a verse, with which those that are knowing and +provident take care to be furnished. + +Very near the house of Maclean stands the castle of Col, which was the +mansion of the Laird, till the house was built. It is built upon a rock, +as Mr. Boswell remarked, that it might not be mined. It is very strong, +and having been not long uninhabited, is yet in repair. On the wall was, +not long ago, a stone with an inscription, importing, that 'if any man of +the clan of Maclonich shall appear before this castle, though he come at +midnight, with a man's head in his hand, he shall there find safety and +protection against all but the King.' + +This is an old Highland treaty made upon a very memorable occasion. +Maclean, the son of John Gerves, who recovered Col, and conquered Barra, +had obtained, it is said, from James the Second, a grant of the lands of +Lochiel, forfeited, I suppose, by some offence against the state. + +Forfeited estates were not in those days quietly resigned; Maclean, +therefore, went with an armed force to seize his new possessions, and, I +know not for what reason, took his wife with him. The Camerons rose in +defence of their Chief, and a battle was fought at the head of Loch Ness, +near the place where Fort Augustus now stands, in which Lochiel obtained +the victory, and Maclean, with his followers, was defeated and destroyed. + +The lady fell into the hands of the conquerours, and being found pregnant +was placed in the custody of Maclonich, one of a tribe or family branched +from Cameron, with orders, if she brought a boy, to destroy him, if a +girl, to spare her. + +Maclonich's wife, who was with child likewise, had a girl about the same +time at which lady Maclean brought a boy, and Maclonich with more +generosity to his captive, than fidelity to his trust, contrived that the +children should be changed. + +Maclean being thus preserved from death, in time recovered his original +patrimony; and in gratitude to his friend, made his castle a place of +refuge to any of the clan that should think himself in danger; and, as a +proof of reciprocal confidence, Maclean took upon himself and his +posterity the care of educating the heir of Maclonich. + +This story, like all other traditions of the Highlands, is variously +related, but though some circumstances are uncertain, the principal fact +is true. Maclean undoubtedly owed his preservation to Maclonich; for the +treaty between the two families has been strictly observed: it did not +sink into disuse and oblivion, but continued in its full force while the +chieftains retained their power. I have read a demand of protection, +made not more than thirty-seven years ago, for one of the Maclonichs, +named Ewen Cameron, who had been accessory to the death of Macmartin, and +had been banished by Lochiel, his lord, for a certain term; at the +expiration of which he returned married from France, but the Macmartins, +not satisfied with the punishment, when he attempted to settle, still +threatened him with vengeance. He therefore asked, and obtained shelter +in the Isle of Col. + +The power of protection subsists no longer, but what the law permits is +yet continued, and Maclean of Col now educates the heir of Maclonich. + +There still remains in the Islands, though it is passing fast away, the +custom of fosterage. A Laird, a man of wealth and eminence, sends his +child, either male or female, to a tacksman, or tenant, to be fostered. +It is not always his own tenant, but some distant friend that obtains +this honour; for an honour such a trust is very reasonably thought. The +terms of fosterage seem to vary in different islands. In Mull, the +father sends with his child a certain number of cows, to which the same +number is added by the fosterer. The father appropriates a +proportionable extent of ground, without rent, for their pasturage. If +every cow brings a calf, half belongs to the fosterer, and half to the +child; but if there be only one calf between two cows, it is the child's, +and when the child returns to the parent, it is accompanied by all the +cows given, both by the father and by the fosterer, with half of the +increase of the stock by propagation. These beasts are considered as a +portion, and called Macalive cattle, of which the father has the produce, +but is supposed not to have the full property, but to owe the same number +to the child, as a portion to the daughter, or a stock for the son. + +Children continue with the fosterer perhaps six years, and cannot, where +this is the practice, be considered as burdensome. The fosterer, if he +gives four cows, receives likewise four, and has, while the child +continues with him, grass for eight without rent, with half the calves, +and all the milk, for which he pays only four cows when he dismisses his +Dalt, for that is the name for a foster child. + +Fosterage is, I believe, sometimes performed upon more liberal terms. Our +friend, the young Laird of Col, was fostered by Macsweyn of Grissipol. +Macsweyn then lived a tenant to Sir James Macdonald in the Isle of Sky; +and therefore Col, whether he sent him cattle or not, could grant him no +land. The Dalt, however, at his return, brought back a considerable +number of Macalive cattle, and of the friendship so formed there have +been good effects. When Macdonald raised his rents, Macsweyn was, like +other tenants, discontented, and, resigning his farm, removed from Sky to +Col, and was established at Grissipol. + +These observations we made by favour of the contrary wind that drove us +to Col, an Island not often visited; for there is not much to amuse +curiosity, or to attract avarice. + +The ground has been hitherto, I believe, used chiefly for pasturage. In +a district, such as the eye can command, there is a general herdsman, who +knows all the cattle of the neighbourhood, and whose station is upon a +hill, from which he surveys the lower grounds; and if one man's cattle +invade another's grass, drives them back to their own borders. But other +means of profit begin to be found; kelp is gathered and burnt, and sloops +are loaded with the concreted ashes. Cultivation is likely to be +improved by the skill and encouragement of the present heir, and the +inhabitants of those obscure vallies will partake of the general progress +of life. + +The rents of the parts which belong to the Duke of Argyle, have been +raised from fifty-five to one hundred and five pounds, whether from the +land or the sea I cannot tell. The bounties of the sea have lately been +so great, that a farm in Southuist has risen in ten years from a rent of +thirty pounds to one hundred and eighty. + +He who lives in Col, and finds himself condemned to solitary meals, and +incommunicable reflection, will find the usefulness of that middle order +of Tacksmen, which some who applaud their own wisdom are wishing to +destroy. Without intelligence man is not social, he is only gregarious; +and little intelligence will there be, where all are constrained to daily +labour, and every mind must wait upon the hand. + +After having listened for some days to the tempest, and wandered about +the Island till our curiosity was satisfied, we began to think about our +departure. To leave Col in October was not very easy. We however found +a sloop which lay on the coast to carry kelp; and for a price which we +thought levied upon our necessities, the master agreed to carry us to +Mull, whence we might readily pass back to Scotland. + + + + +MULL + + +As we were to catch the first favourable breath, we spent the night not +very elegantly nor pleasantly in the vessel, and were landed next day at +Tobor Morar, a port in Mull, which appears to an unexperienced eye formed +for the security of ships; for its mouth is closed by a small island, +which admits them through narrow channels into a bason sufficiently +capacious. They are indeed safe from the sea, but there is a hollow +between the mountains, through which the wind issues from the land with +very mischievous violence. + +There was no danger while we were there, and we found several other +vessels at anchor; so that the port had a very commercial appearance. + +The young Laird of Col, who had determined not to let us lose his +company, while there was any difficulty remaining, came over with us. His +influence soon appeared; for he procured us horses, and conducted us to +the house of Doctor Maclean, where we found very kind entertainment, and +very pleasing conversation. Miss Maclean, who was born, and had been +bred at Glasgow, having removed with her father to Mull, added to other +qualifications, a great knowledge of the Earse language, which she had +not learned in her childhood, but gained by study, and was the only +interpreter of Earse poetry that I could ever find. + +The Isle of Mull is perhaps in extent the third of the Hebrides. It is +not broken by waters, nor shot into promontories, but is a solid and +compact mass, of breadth nearly equal to its length. Of the dimensions +of the larger Islands, there is no knowledge approaching to exactness. I +am willing to estimate it as containing about three hundred square miles. + +Mull had suffered like Sky by the black winter of seventy-one, in which, +contrary to all experience, a continued frost detained the snow eight +weeks upon the ground. Against a calamity never known, no provision had +been made, and the people could only pine in helpless misery. One tenant +was mentioned, whose cattle perished to the value of three hundred +pounds; a loss which probably more than the life of man is necessary to +repair. In countries like these, the descriptions of famine become +intelligible. Where by vigorous and artful cultivation of a soil +naturally fertile, there is commonly a superfluous growth both of grain +and grass; where the fields are crowded with cattle; and where every hand +is able to attract wealth from a distance, by making something that +promotes ease, or gratifies vanity, a dear year produces only a +comparative want, which is rather seen than felt, and which terminates +commonly in no worse effect, than that of condemning the lower orders of +the community to sacrifice a little luxury to convenience, or at most a +little convenience to necessity. + +But where the climate is unkind, and the ground penurious, so that the +most fruitful years will produce only enough to maintain themselves; +where life unimproved, and unadorned, fades into something little more +than naked existence, and every one is busy for himself, without any arts +by which the pleasure of others may be increased; if to the daily burden +of distress any additional weight be added, nothing remains but to +despair and die. In Mull the disappointment of a harvest, or a murrain +among the cattle, cuts off the regular provision; and they who have no +manufactures can purchase no part of the superfluities of other +countries. The consequence of a bad season is here not scarcity, but +emptiness; and they whose plenty, was barely a supply of natural and +present need, when that slender stock fails, must perish with hunger. + +All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, +he may learn to improve his own, and if fortune carries him to worse, he +may learn to enjoy it. + +Mr. Boswell's curiosity strongly impelled him to survey Iona, or +Icolmkil, which was to the early ages the great school of Theology, and +is supposed to have been the place of sepulture for the ancient kings. I, +though less eager, did not oppose him. + +That we might perform this expedition, it was necessary to traverse a +great part of Mull. We passed a day at Dr. Maclean's, and could have +been well contented to stay longer. But Col provided us horses, and we +pursued our journey. This was a day of inconvenience, for the country is +very rough, and my horse was but little. We travelled many hours through +a tract, black and barren, in which, however, there were the reliques of +humanity; for we found a ruined chapel in our way. + +It is natural, in traversing this gloom of desolation, to inquire, +whether something may not be done to give nature a more cheerful face, +and whether those hills and moors that afford heath cannot with a little +care and labour bear something better? The first thought that occurs is +to cover them with trees, for that in many of these naked regions trees +will grow, is evident, because stumps and roots are yet remaining; and +the speculatist hastily proceeds to censure that negligence and laziness +that has omitted for so long a time so easy an improvement. + +To drop seeds into the ground, and attend their growth, requires little +labour and no skill. He who remembers that all the woods, by which the +wants of man have been supplied from the Deluge till now, were self-sown, +will not easily be persuaded to think all the art and preparation +necessary, which the Georgick writers prescribe to planters. Trees +certainly have covered the earth with very little culture. They wave +their tops among the rocks of Norway, and might thrive as well in the +Highlands and Hebrides. + +But there is a frightful interval between the seed and timber. He that +calculates the growth of trees, has the unwelcome remembrance of the +shortness of life driven hard upon him. He knows that he is doing what +will never benefit himself; and when he rejoices to see the stem rise, is +disposed to repine that another shall cut it down. + +Plantation is naturally the employment of a mind unburdened with care, +and vacant to futurity, saturated with present good, and at leisure to +derive gratification from the prospect of posterity. He that pines with +hunger, is in little care how others shall be fed. The poor man is +seldom studious to make his grandson rich. It may be soon discovered, +why in a place, which hardly supplies the cravings of necessity, there +has been little attention to the delights of fancy, and why distant +convenience is unregarded, where the thoughts are turned with incessant +solicitude upon every possibility of immediate advantage. + +Neither is it quite so easy to raise large woods, as may be conceived. +Trees intended to produce timber must be sown where they are to grow; and +ground sown with trees must be kept useless for a long time, inclosed at +an expence from which many will be discouraged by the remoteness of the +profit, and watched with that attention, which, in places where it is +most needed, will neither be given nor bought. That it cannot be plowed +is evident; and if cattle be suffered to graze upon it, they will devour +the plants as fast as they rise. Even in coarser countries, where herds +and flocks are not fed, not only the deer and the wild goats will browse +upon them, but the hare and rabbit will nibble them. It is therefore +reasonable to believe, what I do not remember any naturalist to have +remarked, that there was a time when the world was very thinly inhabited +by beasts, as well as men, and that the woods had leisure to rise high +before animals had bred numbers sufficient to intercept them. + +Sir James Macdonald, in part of the wastes of his territory, set or sowed +trees, to the number, as I have been told, of several millions, +expecting, doubtless, that they would grow up into future navies and +cities; but for want of inclosure, and of that care which is always +necessary, and will hardly ever be taken, all his cost and labour have +been lost, and the ground is likely to continue an useless heath. + +Having not any experience of a journey in Mull, we had no doubt of +reaching the sea by day-light, and therefore had not left Dr. Maclean's +very early. We travelled diligently enough, but found the country, for +road there was none, very difficult to pass. We were always struggling +with some obstruction or other, and our vexation was not balanced by any +gratification of the eye or mind. We were now long enough acquainted +with hills and heath to have lost the emotion that they once raised, +whether pleasing or painful, and had our mind employed only on our own +fatigue. We were however sure, under Col's protection, of escaping all +real evils. There was no house in Mull to which he could not introduce +us. He had intended to lodge us, for that night, with a gentleman that +lived upon the coast, but discovered on the way, that he then lay in bed +without hope of life. + +We resolved not to embarrass a family, in a time of so much sorrow, if +any other expedient could he found; and as the Island of Ulva was over- +against us, it was determined that we should pass the strait and have +recourse to the Laird, who, like the other gentlemen of the Islands, was +known to Col. We expected to find a ferry-boat, but when at last we came +to the water, the boat was gone. + +We were now again at a stop. It was the sixteenth of October, a time +when it is not convenient to sleep in the Hebrides without a cover, and +there was no house within our reach, but that which we had already +declined. + + + + +ULVA + + +While we stood deliberating, we were happily espied from an Irish ship, +that lay at anchor in the strait. The master saw that we wanted a +passage, and with great civility sent us his boat, which quickly conveyed +us to Ulva, where we were very liberally entertained by Mr. Macquarry. + +To Ulva we came in the dark, and left it before noon the next day. A +very exact description therefore will not be expected. We were told, +that it is an Island of no great extent, rough and barren, inhabited by +the Macquarrys; a clan not powerful nor numerous, but of antiquity, which +most other families are content to reverence. The name is supposed to be +a depravation of some other; for the Earse language does not afford it +any etymology. Macquarry is proprietor both of Ulva and some adjacent +Islands, among which is Staffa, so lately raised to renown by Mr. Banks. + +When the Islanders were reproached with their ignorance, or insensibility +of the wonders of Staffa, they had not much to reply. They had indeed +considered it little, because they had always seen it; and none but +philosophers, nor they always, are struck with wonder, otherwise than by +novelty. How would it surprise an unenlightened ploughman, to hear a +company of sober men, inquiring by what power the hand tosses a stone, or +why the stone, when it is tossed, falls to the ground! + +Of the ancestors of Macquarry, who thus lies hid in his unfrequented +Island, I have found memorials in all places where they could be +expected. + +Inquiring after the reliques of former manners, I found that in Ulva, +and, I think, no where else, is continued the payment of the Mercheta +Mulierum; a fine in old times due to the Laird at the marriage of a +virgin. The original of this claim, as of our tenure of Borough English, +is variously delivered. It is pleasant to find ancient customs in old +families. This payment, like others, was, for want of money, made +anciently in the produce of the land. Macquarry was used to demand a +sheep, for which he now takes a crown, by that inattention to the +uncertain proportion between the value and the denomination of money, +which has brought much disorder into Europe. A sheep has always the same +power of supplying human wants, but a crown will bring at one time more, +at another less. + +Ulva was not neglected by the piety of ardent times: it has still to show +what was once a church. + + + + +INCH KENNETH + + +In the morning we went again into the boat, and were landed on Inch +Kenneth, an Island about a mile long, and perhaps half a mile broad, +remarkable for pleasantness and fertility. It is verdant and grassy, and +fit both for pasture and tillage; but it has no trees. Its only +inhabitants were Sir Allan Maclean and two young ladies, his daughters, +with their servants. + +Romance does not often exhibit a scene that strikes the imagination more +than this little desert in these depths of Western obscurity, occupied +not by a gross herdsman, or amphibious fisherman, but by a gentleman and +two ladies, of high birth, polished manners and elegant conversation, +who, in a habitation raised not very far above the ground, but furnished +with unexpected neatness and convenience, practised all the kindness of +hospitality, and refinement of courtesy. + +Sir Allan is the Chieftain of the great clan of Maclean, which is said to +claim the second place among the Highland families, yielding only to +Macdonald. Though by the misconduct of his ancestors, most of the +extensive territory, which would have descended to him, has been +alienated, he still retains much of the dignity and authority of his +birth. When soldiers were lately wanting for the American war, +application was made to Sir Allan, and he nominated a hundred men for the +service, who obeyed the summons, and bore arms under his command. + +He had then, for some time, resided with the young ladies in Inch +Kenneth, where he lives not only with plenty, but with elegance, having +conveyed to his cottage a collection of books, and what else is necessary +to make his hours pleasant. + +When we landed, we were met by Sir Allan and the Ladies, accompanied by +Miss Macquarry, who had passed some time with them, and now returned to +Ulva with her father. + +We all walked together to the mansion, where we found one cottage for Sir +Allan, and I think two more for the domesticks and the offices. We +entered, and wanted little that palaces afford. Our room was neatly +floored, and well lighted; and our dinner, which was dressed in one of +the other huts, was plentiful and delicate. + +In the afternoon Sir Allan reminded us, that the day was Sunday, which he +never suffered to pass without some religious distinction, and invited us +to partake in his acts of domestick worship; which I hope neither Mr. +Boswell nor myself will be suspected of a disposition to refuse. The +elder of the Ladies read the English service. + +Inch Kenneth was once a seminary of ecclesiasticks, subordinate, I +suppose, to Icolmkill. Sir Allan had a mind to trace the foundations of +the college, but neither I nor Mr. Boswell, who bends a keener eye on +vacancy, were able to perceive them. + +Our attention, however, was sufficiently engaged by a venerable chapel, +which stands yet entire, except that the roof is gone. It is about sixty +feet in length, and thirty in breadth. On one side of the altar is a bas +relief of the blessed Virgin, and by it lies a little bell; which, though +cracked, and without a clapper, has remained there for ages, guarded only +by the venerableness of the place. The ground round the chapel is +covered with gravestones of Chiefs and ladies; and still continues to be +a place of sepulture. + +Inch Kenneth is a proper prelude to Icolmkill. It was not without some +mournful emotion that we contemplated the ruins of religious structures +and the monuments of the dead. + +On the next day we took a more distinct view of the place, and went with +the boat to see oysters in the bed, out of which the boatmen forced up as +many as were wanted. Even Inch Kenneth has a subordinate Island, named +Sandiland, I suppose in contempt, where we landed, and found a rock, with +a surface of perhaps four acres, of which one is naked stone, another +spread with sand and shells, some of which I picked up for their glossy +beauty, and two covered with a little earth and grass, on which Sir Allan +has a few sheep. I doubt not but when there was a college at Inch +Kenneth, there was a hermitage upon Sandiland. + +Having wandered over those extensive plains, we committed ourselves again +to the winds and waters; and after a voyage of about ten minutes, in +which we met with nothing very observable, were again safe upon dry +ground. + +We told Sir Allan our desire of visiting Icolmkill, and entreated him to +give us his protection, and his company. He thought proper to hesitate a +little, but the Ladies hinted, that as they knew he would not finally +refuse, he would do better if he preserved the grace of ready compliance. +He took their advice, and promised to carry us on the morrow in his boat. + +We passed the remaining part of the day in such amusements as were in our +power. Sir Allan related the American campaign, and at evening one of +the Ladies played on her harpsichord, while Col and Mr. Boswell danced a +Scottish reel with the other. + +We could have been easily persuaded to a longer stay upon Inch Kenneth, +but life will not be all passed in delight. The session at Edinburgh was +approaching, from which Mr. Boswell could not be absent. + +In the morning our boat was ready: it was high and strong. Sir Allan +victualled it for the day, and provided able rowers. We now parted from +the young Laird of Col, who had treated us with so much kindness, and +concluded his favours by consigning us to Sir Allan. Here we had the +last embrace of this amiable man, who, while these pages were preparing +to attest his virtues, perished in the passage between Ulva and Inch +Kenneth. + +Sir Allan, to whom the whole region was well known, told us of a very +remarkable cave, to which he would show us the way. We had been +disappointed already by one cave, and were not much elevated by the +expectation of another. + +It was yet better to see it, and we stopped at some rocks on the coast of +Mull. The mouth is fortified by vast fragments of stone, over which we +made our way, neither very nimbly, nor very securely. The place, +however, well repaid our trouble. The bottom, as far as the flood rushes +in, was encumbered with large pebbles, but as we advanced was spread over +with smooth sand. The breadth is about forty-five feet: the roof rises +in an arch, almost regular, to a height which we could not measure; but I +think it about thirty feet. + +This part of our curiosity was nearly frustrated; for though we went to +see a cave, and knew that caves are dark, we forgot to carry tapers, and +did not discover our omission till we were wakened by our wants. Sir +Allan then sent one of the boatmen into the country, who soon returned +with one little candle. We were thus enabled to go forward, but could +not venture far. Having passed inward from the sea to a great depth, we +found on the right hand a narrow passage, perhaps not more than six feet +wide, obstructed by great stones, over which we climbed and came into a +second cave, in breadth twenty-five feet. The air in this apartment was +very warm, but not oppressive, nor loaded with vapours. Our light showed +no tokens of a feculent or corrupted atmosphere. Here was a square +stone, called, as we are told, Fingal's Table. + +If we had been provided with torches, we should have proceeded in our +search, though we had already gone as far as any former adventurer, +except some who are reported never to have returned; and, measuring our +way back, we found it more than a hundred and sixty yards, the eleventh +part of a mile. + +Our measures were not critically exact, having been made with a walking +pole, such as it is convenient to carry in these rocky countries, of +which I guessed the length by standing against it. In this there could +be no great errour, nor do I much doubt but the Highlander, whom we +employed, reported the number right. More nicety however is better, and +no man should travel unprovided with instruments for taking heights and +distances. + +There is yet another cause of errour not always easily surmounted, though +more dangerous to the veracity of itinerary narratives, than imperfect +mensuration. An observer deeply impressed by any remarkable spectacle, +does not suppose, that the traces will soon vanish from his mind, and +having commonly no great convenience for writing, defers the description +to a time of more leisure, and better accommodation. + +He who has not made the experiment, or who is not accustomed to require +rigorous accuracy from himself, will scarcely believe how much a few +hours take from certainty of knowledge, and distinctness of imagery; how +the succession of objects will be broken, how separate parts will be +confused, and how many particular features and discriminations will be +compressed and conglobated into one gross and general idea. + +To this dilatory notation must be imputed the false relations of +travellers, where there is no imaginable motive to deceive. They trusted +to memory, what cannot be trusted safely but to the eye, and told by +guess what a few hours before they had known with certainty. Thus it was +that Wheeler and Spon described with irreconcilable contrariety things +which they surveyed together, and which both undoubtedly designed to show +as they saw them. + +When we had satisfied our curiosity in the cave, so far as our penury of +light permitted us, we clambered again to our boat, and proceeded along +the coast of Mull to a headland, called Atun, remarkable for the columnar +form of the rocks, which rise in a series of pilasters, with a degree of +regularity, which Sir Allan thinks not less worthy of curiosity than the +shore of Staffa. + +Not long after we came to another range of black rocks, which had the +appearance of broken pilasters, set one behind another to a great depth. +This place was chosen by Sir Allan for our dinner. We were easily +accommodated with seats, for the stones were of all heights, and +refreshed ourselves and our boatmen, who could have no other rest till we +were at Icolmkill. + +The evening was now approaching, and we were yet at a considerable +distance from the end of our expedition. We could therefore stop no more +to make remarks in the way, but set forward with some degree of +eagerness. The day soon failed us, and the moon presented a very solemn +and pleasing scene. The sky was clear, so that the eye commanded a wide +circle: the sea was neither still nor turbulent: the wind neither silent +nor loud. We were never far from one coast or another, on which, if the +weather had become violent, we could have found shelter, and therefore +contemplated at ease the region through which we glided in the +tranquillity of the night, and saw now a rock and now an island grow +gradually conspicuous and gradually obscure. I committed the fault which +I have just been censuring, in neglecting, as we passed, to note the +series of this placid navigation. + +We were very near an Island, called Nun's Island, perhaps from an ancient +convent. Here is said to have been dug the stone that was used in the +buildings of Icolmkill. Whether it is now inhabited we could not stay to +inquire. + +At last we came to Icolmkill, but found no convenience for landing. Our +boat could not be forced very near the dry ground, and our Highlanders +carried us over the water. + +We were now treading that illustrious Island, which was once the luminary +of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians +derived the benefits of knowledge, and the blessings of religion. To +abstract the mind from all local emotion would be impossible, if it were +endeavoured, and would be foolish, if it were possible. Whatever +withdraws us from the power of our senses; whatever makes the past, the +distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the +dignity of thinking beings. Far from me and from my friends, be such +frigid philosophy as may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any +ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man +is little to be envied, whose patriotism would not gain force upon the +plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins +of Iona! + +We came too late to visit monuments: some care was necessary for +ourselves. Whatever was in the Island, Sir Allan could command, for the +inhabitants were Macleans; but having little they could not give us much. +He went to the headman of the Island, whom Fame, but Fame delights in +amplifying, represents as worth no less than fifty pounds. He was +perhaps proud enough of his guests, but ill prepared for our +entertainment; however, he soon produced more provision than men not +luxurious require. Our lodging was next to be provided. We found a barn +well stocked with hay, and made our beds as soft as we could. + +In the morning we rose and surveyed the place. The churches of the two +convents are both standing, though unroofed. They were built of unhewn +stone, but solid, and not inelegant. I brought away rude measures of the +buildings, such as I cannot much trust myself, inaccurately taken, and +obscurely noted. Mr. Pennant's delineations, which are doubtless exact, +have made my unskilful description less necessary. + +The episcopal church consists of two parts, separated by the belfry, and +built at different times. The original church had, like others, the +altar at one end, and tower at the other: but as it grew too small, +another building of equal dimension was added, and the tower then was +necessarily in the middle. + +That these edifices are of different ages seems evident. The arch of the +first church is Roman, being part of a circle; that of the additional +building is pointed, and therefore Gothick, or Saracenical; the tower is +firm, and wants only to be floored and covered. + +Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks, there are some walls +remaining, but nothing approaching to a complete apartment. + +The bottom of the church is so incumbered with mud and rubbish, that we +could make no discoveries of curious inscriptions, and what there are +have been already published. The place is said to be known where the +black stones lie concealed, on which the old Highland Chiefs, when they +made contracts and alliances, used to take the oath, which was considered +as more sacred than any other obligation, and which could not be violated +without the blackest infamy. In those days of violence and rapine, it +was of great importance to impress upon savage minds the sanctity of an +oath, by some particular and extraordinary circumstances. They would not +have recourse to the black stones, upon small or common occasions, and +when they had established their faith by this tremendous sanction, +inconstancy and treachery were no longer feared. + +The chapel of the nunnery is now used by the inhabitants as a kind of +general cow-house, and the bottom is consequently too miry for +examination. Some of the stones which covered the later abbesses have +inscriptions, which might yet be read, if the chapel were cleansed. The +roof of this, as of all the other buildings, is totally destroyed, not +only because timber quickly decays when it is neglected, but because in +an island utterly destitute of wood, it was wanted for use, and was +consequently the first plunder of needy rapacity. + +The chancel of the nuns' chapel is covered with an arch of stone, to +which time has done no injury; and a small apartment communicating with +the choir, on the north side, like the chapter-house in cathedrals, +roofed with stone in the same manner, is likewise entire. + +In one of the churches was a marble altar, which the superstition of the +inhabitants has destroyed. Their opinion was, that a fragment of this +stone was a defence against shipwrecks, fire, and miscarriages. In one +corner of the church the bason for holy water is yet unbroken. + +The cemetery of the nunnery was, till very lately, regarded with such +reverence, that only women were buried in it. These reliques of +veneration always produce some mournful pleasure. I could have forgiven +a great injury more easily than the violation of this imaginary sanctity. + +South of the chapel stand the walls of a large room, which was probably +the hall, or refectory of the nunnery. This apartment is capable of +repair. Of the rest of the convent there are only fragments. + +Besides the two principal churches, there are, I think, five chapels yet +standing, and three more remembered. There are also crosses, of which +two bear the names of St. John and St. Matthew. + +A large space of ground about these consecrated edifices is covered with +gravestones, few of which have any inscription. He that surveys it, +attended by an insular antiquary, may be told where the Kings of many +nations are buried, and if he loves to sooth his imagination with the +thoughts that naturally rise in places where the great and the powerful +lie mingled with the dust, let him listen in submissive silence; for if +he asks any questions, his delight is at an end. + +Iona has long enjoyed, without any very credible attestation, the honour +of being reputed the cemetery of the Scottish Kings. It is not unlikely, +that, when the opinion of local sanctity was prevalent, the Chieftains of +the Isles, and perhaps some of the Norwegian or Irish princes were +reposited in this venerable enclosure. But by whom the subterraneous +vaults are peopled is now utterly unknown. The graves are very numerous, +and some of them undoubtedly contain the remains of men, who did not +expect to be so soon forgotten. + +Not far from this awful ground, may be traced the garden of the +monastery: the fishponds are yet discernible, and the aqueduct, which +supplied them, is still in use. + +There remains a broken building, which is called the Bishop's house, I +know not by what authority. It was once the residence of some man above +the common rank, for it has two stories and a chimney. We were shewn a +chimney at the other end, which was only a nich, without perforation, but +so much does antiquarian credulity, or patriotick vanity prevail, that it +was not much more safe to trust the eye of our instructor than the +memory. + +There is in the Island one house more, and only one, that has a chimney: +we entered it, and found it neither wanting repair nor inhabitants; but +to the farmers, who now possess it, the chimney is of no great value; for +their fire was made on the floor, in the middle of the room, and +notwithstanding the dignity of their mansion, they rejoiced, like their +neighbours, in the comforts of smoke. + +It is observed, that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most +pleasant and fruitful places. While the world allowed the monks their +choice, it is surely no dishonour that they chose well. This Island is +remarkably fruitful. The village near the churches is said to contain +seventy families, which, at five in a family, is more than a hundred +inhabitants to a mile. There are perhaps other villages: yet both corn +and cattle are annually exported. + +But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity. The +inhabitants are remarkably gross, and remarkably neglected: I know not if +they are visited by any Minister. The Island, which was once the +metropolis of learning and piety, has now no school for education, nor +temple for worship, only two inhabitants that can speak English, and not +one that can write or read. + +The people are of the clan of Maclean; and though Sir Allan had not been +in the place for many years, he was received with all the reverence due +to their Chieftain. One of them being sharply reprehended by him, for +not sending him some rum, declared after his departure, in Mr. Boswell's +presence, that he had no design of disappointing him, 'for,' said he, 'I +would cut my bones for him; and if he had sent his dog for it, he should +have had it.' + +When we were to depart, our boat was left by the ebb at a great distance +from the water, but no sooner did we wish it afloat, than the islanders +gathered round it, and, by the union of many hands, pushed it down the +beach; every man who could contribute his help seemed to think himself +happy in the opportunity of being, for a moment, useful to his Chief. + +We now left those illustrious ruins, by which Mr. Boswell was much +affected, nor would I willingly be thought to have looked upon them +without some emotion. Perhaps, in the revolutions of the world, Iona may +be sometime again the instructress of the Western Regions. + +It was no long voyage to Mull, where, under Sir Allan's protection, we +landed in the evening, and were entertained for the night by Mr. Maclean, +a Minister that lives upon the coast, whose elegance of conversation, and +strength of judgment, would make him conspicuous in places of greater +celebrity. Next day we dined with Dr. Maclean, another physician, and +then travelled on to the house of a very powerful Laird, Maclean of +Lochbuy; for in this country every man's name is Maclean. + +Where races are thus numerous, and thus combined, none but the Chief of a +clan is addressed by his name. The Laird of Dunvegan is called Macleod, +but other gentlemen of the same family are denominated by the places +where they reside, as Raasa, or Talisker. The distinction of the meaner +people is made by their Christian names. In consequence of this +practice, the late Laird of Macfarlane, an eminent genealogist, +considered himself as disrespectfully treated, if the common addition was +applied to him. Mr. Macfarlane, said he, may with equal propriety be +said to many; but I, and I only, am Macfarlane. + +Our afternoon journey was through a country of such gloomy desolation, +that Mr. Boswell thought no part of the Highlands equally terrifick, yet +we came without any difficulty, at evening, to Lochbuy, where we found a +true Highland Laird, rough and haughty, and tenacious of his dignity; +who, hearing my name, inquired whether I was of the Johnstons of +Glencroe, or of Ardnamurchan. + +Lochbuy has, like the other insular Chieftains, quitted the castle that +sheltered his ancestors, and lives near it, in a mansion not very +spacious or splendid. I have seen no houses in the Islands much to be +envied for convenience or magnificence, yet they bare testimony to the +progress of arts and civility, as they shew that rapine and surprise are +no longer dreaded, and are much more commodious than the ancient +fortresses. + +The castles of the Hebrides, many of which are standing, and many ruined, +were always built upon points of land, on the margin of the sea. For the +choice of this situation there must have been some general reason, which +the change of manners has left in obscurity. They were of no use in the +days of piracy, as defences of the coast; for it was equally accessible +in other places. Had they been sea-marks or light-houses, they would +have been of more use to the invader than the natives, who could want no +such directions of their own waters: for a watch-tower, a cottage on a +hill would have been better, as it would have commanded a wider view. + +If they be considered merely as places of retreat, the situation seems +not well chosen; for the Laird of an Island is safest from foreign +enemies in the center; on the coast he might be more suddenly surprised +than in the inland parts; and the invaders, if their enterprise +miscarried, might more easily retreat. Some convenience, however, +whatever it was, their position on the shore afforded; for uniformity of +practice seldom continues long without good reason. + +A castle in the Islands is only a single tower of three or four stories, +of which the walls are sometimes eight or nine feet thick, with narrow +windows, and close winding stairs of stone. The top rises in a cone, or +pyramid of stone, encompassed by battlements. The intermediate floors +are sometimes frames of timber, as in common houses, and sometimes arches +of stone, or alternately stone and timber; so that there was very little +danger from fire. In the center of every floor, from top to bottom, is +the chief room, of no great extent, round which there are narrow +cavities, or recesses, formed by small vacuities, or by a double wall. I +know not whether there be ever more than one fire-place. They had not +capacity to contain many people, or much provision; but their enemies +could seldom stay to blockade them; for if they failed in the first +attack, their next care was to escape. + +The walls were always too strong to be shaken by such desultory +hostilities; the windows were too narrow to be entered, and the +battlements too high to be scaled. The only danger was at the gates, +over which the wall was built with a square cavity, not unlike a chimney, +continued to the top. Through this hollow the defendants let fall stones +upon those who attempted to break the gate, and poured down water, +perhaps scalding water, if the attack was made with fire. The castle of +Lochbuy was secured by double doors, of which the outer was an iron +grate. + +In every castle is a well and a dungeon. The use of the well is evident. +The dungeon is a deep subterraneous cavity, walled on the sides, and +arched on the top, into which the descent is through a narrow door, by a +ladder or a rope, so that it seems impossible to escape, when the rope or +ladder is drawn up. The dungeon was, I suppose, in war, a prison for +such captives as were treated with severity, and, in peace, for such +delinquents as had committed crimes within the Laird's jurisdiction; for +the mansions of many Lairds were, till the late privation of their +privileges, the halls of justice to their own tenants. + +As these fortifications were the productions of mere necessity, they are +built only for safety, with little regard to convenience, and with none +to elegance or pleasure. It was sufficient for a Laird of the Hebrides, +if he had a strong house, in which he could hide his wife and children +from the next clan. That they are not large nor splendid is no wonder. +It is not easy to find how they were raised, such as they are, by men who +had no money, in countries where the labourers and artificers could +scarcely be fed. The buildings in different parts of the Island shew +their degrees of wealth and power. I believe that for all the castles +which I have seen beyond the Tweed, the ruins yet remaining of some one +of those which the English built in Wales, would supply materials. + +These castles afford another evidence that the fictions of romantick +chivalry had for their basis the real manners of the feudal times, when +every Lord of a seignory lived in his hold lawless and unaccountable, +with all the licentiousness and insolence of uncontested superiority and +unprincipled power. The traveller, whoever he might be, coming to the +fortified habitation of a Chieftain, would, probably, have been +interrogated from the battlements, admitted with caution at the gate, +introduced to a petty Monarch, fierce with habitual hostility, and +vigilant with ignorant suspicion; who, according to his general temper, +or accidental humour, would have seated a stranger as his guest at the +table, or as a spy confined him in the dungeon. + +Lochbuy means the Yellow Lake, which is the name given to an inlet of the +sea, upon which the castle of Mr. Maclean stands. The reason of the +appellation we did not learn. + +We were now to leave the Hebrides, where we had spent some weeks with +sufficient amusement, and where we had amplified our thoughts with new +scenes of nature, and new modes of life. More time would have given us a +more distinct view, but it was necessary that Mr. Boswell should return +before the courts of justice were opened; and it was not proper to live +too long upon hospitality, however liberally imparted. + +Of these Islands it must be confessed, that they have not many +allurements, but to the mere lover of naked nature. The inhabitants are +thin, provisions are scarce, and desolation and penury give little +pleasure. + +The people collectively considered are not few, though their numbers are +small in proportion to the space which they occupy. Mull is said to +contain six thousand, and Sky fifteen thousand. Of the computation +respecting Mull, I can give no account; but when I doubted the truth of +the numbers attributed to Sky, one of the Ministers exhibited such facts +as conquered my incredulity. + +Of the proportion, which the product of any region bears to the people, +an estimate is commonly made according to the pecuniary price of the +necessaries of life; a principle of judgment which is never certain, +because it supposes what is far from truth, that the value of money is +always the same, and so measures an unknown quantity by an uncertain +standard. It is competent enough when the markets of the same country, +at different times, and those times not too distant, are to be compared; +but of very little use for the purpose of making one nation acquainted +with the state of another. Provisions, though plentiful, are sold in +places of great pecuniary opulence for nominal prices, to which, however +scarce, where gold and silver are yet scarcer, they can never be raised. + +In the Western Islands there is so little internal commerce, that hardly +any thing has a known or settled rate. The price of things brought in, +or carried out, is to be considered as that of a foreign market; and even +this there is some difficulty in discovering, because their denominations +of quantity are different from ours; and when there is ignorance on both +sides, no appeal can be made to a common measure. + +This, however, is not the only impediment. The Scots, with a vigilance +of jealousy which never goes to sleep, always suspect that an Englishman +despises them for their poverty, and to convince him that they are not +less rich than their neighbours, are sure to tell him a price higher than +the true. When Lesley, two hundred years ago, related so punctiliously, +that a hundred hen eggs, new laid, were sold in the Islands for a peny, +he supposed that no inference could possibly follow, but that eggs were +in great abundance. Posterity has since grown wiser; and having learned, +that nominal and real value may differ, they now tell no such stories, +lest the foreigner should happen to collect, not that eggs are many, but +that pence are few. + +Money and wealth have by the use of commercial language been so long +confounded, that they are commonly supposed to be the same; and this +prejudice has spread so widely in Scotland, that I know not whether I +found man or woman, whom I interrogated concerning payments of money, +that could surmount the illiberal desire of deceiving me, by representing +every thing as dearer than it is. + +From Lochbuy we rode a very few miles to the side of Mull, which faces +Scotland, where, having taken leave of our kind protector, Sir Allan, we +embarked in a boat, in which the seat provided for our accommodation was +a heap of rough brushwood; and on the twenty-second of October reposed at +a tolerable inn on the main land. + +On the next day we began our journey southwards. The weather was +tempestuous. For half the day the ground was rough, and our horses were +still small. Had they required much restraint, we might have been +reduced to difficulties; for I think we had amongst us but one bridle. We +fed the poor animals liberally, and they performed their journey well. In +the latter part of the day, we came to a firm and smooth road, made by +the soldiers, on which we travelled with great security, busied with +contemplating the scene about us. The night came on while we had yet a +great part of the way to go, though not so dark, but that we could +discern the cataracts which poured down the hills, on one side, and fell +into one general channel that ran with great violence on the other. The +wind was loud, the rain was heavy, and the whistling of the blast, the +fall of the shower, the rush of the cataracts, and the roar of the +torrent, made a nobler chorus of the rough musick of nature than it had +ever been my chance to hear before. The streams, which ran cross the way +from the hills to the main current, were so frequent, that after a while +I began to count them; and, in ten miles, reckoned fifty-five, probably +missing some, and having let some pass before they forced themselves upon +my notice. At last we came to Inverary, where we found an inn, not only +commodious, but magnificent. + +The difficulties of peregrination were now at an end. Mr. Boswell had +the honour of being known to the Duke of Argyle, by whom we were very +kindly entertained at his splendid seat, and supplied with conveniences +for surveying his spacious park and rising forests. + +After two days stay at Inverary we proceeded Southward over Glencroe, a +black and dreary region, now made easily passable by a military road, +which rises from either end of the glen by an acclivity not dangerously +steep, but sufficiently laborious. In the middle, at the top of the +hill, is a seat with this inscription, 'Rest, and be thankful.' Stones +were placed to mark the distances, which the inhabitants have taken away, +resolved, they said, 'to have no new miles.' + +In this rainy season the hills streamed with waterfalls, which, crossing +the way, formed currents on the other side, that ran in contrary +directions as they fell to the north or south of the summit. Being, by +the favour of the Duke, well mounted, I went up and down the hill with +great convenience. + +From Glencroe we passed through a pleasant country to the banks of Loch +Lomond, and were received at the house of Sir James Colquhoun, who is +owner of almost all the thirty islands of the Loch, which we went in a +boat next morning to survey. The heaviness of the rain shortened our +voyage, but we landed on one island planted with yew, and stocked with +deer, and on another containing perhaps not more than half an acre, +remarkable for the ruins of an old castle, on which the osprey builds her +annual nest. Had Loch Lomond been in a happier climate, it would have +been the boast of wealth and vanity to own one of the little spots which +it incloses, and to have employed upon it all the arts of embellishment. +But as it is, the islets, which court the gazer at a distance, disgust +him at his approach, when he finds, instead of soft lawns; and shady +thickets, nothing more than uncultivated ruggedness. + +Where the Loch discharges itself into a river, called the Leven, we +passed a night with Mr. Smollet, a relation of Doctor Smollet, to whose +memory he has raised an obelisk on the bank near the house in which he +was born. The civility and respect which we found at every place, it is +ungrateful to omit, and tedious to repeat. Here we were met by a post- +chaise, that conveyed us to Glasgow. + +To describe a city so much frequented as Glasgow, is unnecessary. The +prosperity of its commerce appears by the greatness of many private +houses, and a general appearance of wealth. It is the only episcopal +city whose cathedral was left standing in the rage of Reformation. It is +now divided into many separate places of worship, which, taken all +together, compose a great pile, that had been some centuries in building, +but was never finished; for the change of religion intercepted its +progress, before the cross isle was added, which seems essential to a +Gothick cathedral. + +The college has not had a sufficient share of the increasing magnificence +of the place. The session was begun; for it commences on the tenth of +October and continues to the tenth of June, but the students appeared not +numerous, being, I suppose, not yet returned from their several homes. +The division of the academical year into one session, and one recess, +seems to me better accommodated to the present state of life, than that +variegation of time by terms and vacations derived from distant +centuries, in which it was probably convenient, and still continued in +the English universities. So many solid months as the Scotch scheme of +education joins together, allow and encourage a plan for each part of the +year; but with us, he that has settled himself to study in the college is +soon tempted into the country, and he that has adjusted his life in the +country, is summoned back to his college. + +Yet when I have allowed to the universities of Scotland a more rational +distribution of time, I have given them, so far as my inquiries have +informed me, all that they can claim. The students, for the most part, +go thither boys, and depart before they are men; they carry with them +little fundamental knowledge, and therefore the superstructure cannot be +lofty. The grammar schools are not generally well supplied; for the +character of a school-master being there less honourable than in England, +is seldom accepted by men who are capable to adorn it, and where the +school has been deficient, the college can effect little. + +Men bred in the universities of Scotland cannot be expected to be often +decorated with the splendours of ornamental erudition, but they obtain a +mediocrity of knowledge, between learning and ignorance, not inadequate +to the purposes of common life, which is, I believe, very widely diffused +among them, and which countenanced in general by a national combination +so invidious, that their friends cannot defend it, and actuated in +particulars by a spirit of enterprise, so vigorous, that their enemies +are constrained to praise it, enables them to find, or to make their way +to employment, riches, and distinction. + +From Glasgow we directed our course to Auchinleck, an estate devolved, +through a long series of ancestors, to Mr. Boswell's father, the present +possessor. In our way we found several places remarkable enough in +themselves, but already described by those who viewed them at more +leisure, or with much more skill; and stopped two days at Mr. Campbell's, +a gentleman married to Mr. Boswell's sister. + +Auchinleck, which signifies a stony field, seems not now to have any +particular claim to its denomination. It is a district generally level, +and sufficiently fertile, but like all the Western side of Scotland, +incommoded by very frequent rain. It was, with the rest of the country, +generally naked, till the present possessor finding, by the growth of +some stately trees near his old castle, that the ground was favourable +enough to timber, adorned it very diligently with annual plantations. + +Lord Auchinleck, who is one of the Judges of Scotland, and therefore not +wholly at leisure for domestick business or pleasure, has yet found time +to make improvements in his patrimony. He has built a house of hewn +stone, very stately, and durable, and has advanced the value of his lands +with great tenderness to his tenants. + +I was, however, less delighted with the elegance of the modern mansion, +than with the sullen dignity of the old castle. I clambered with Mr. +Boswell among the ruins, which afford striking images of ancient life. It +is, like other castles, built upon a point of rock, and was, I believe, +anciently surrounded with a moat. There is another rock near it, to +which the drawbridge, when it was let down, is said to have reached. +Here, in the ages of tumult and rapine, the Laird was surprised and +killed by the neighbouring Chief, who perhaps might have extinguished the +family, had he not in a few days been seized and hanged, together with +his sons, by Douglas, who came with his forces to the relief of +Auchinleck. + +At no great distance from the house runs a pleasing brook, by a red rock, +out of which has been hewn a very agreeable and commodious summer-house, +at less expence, as Lord Auchinleck told me, than would have been +required to build a room of the same dimensions. The rock seems to have +no more dampness than any other wall. Such opportunities of variety it +is judicious not to neglect. + +We now returned to Edinburgh, where I passed some days with men of +learning, whose names want no advancement from my commemoration, or with +women of elegance, which perhaps disclaims a pedant's praise. + +The conversation of the Scots grows every day less unpleasing to the +English; their peculiarities wear fast away; their dialect is likely to +become in half a century provincial and rustick, even to themselves. The +great, the learned, the ambitious, and the vain, all cultivate the +English phrase, and the English pronunciation, and in splendid companies +Scotch is not much heard, except now and then from an old Lady. + +There is one subject of philosophical curiosity to be found in Edinburgh, +which no other city has to shew; a college of the deaf and dumb, who are +taught to speak, to read, to write, and to practice arithmetick, by a +gentleman, whose name is Braidwood. The number which attends him is, I +think, about twelve, which he brings together into a little school, and +instructs according to their several degrees of proficiency. + +I do not mean to mention the instruction of the deaf as new. Having been +first practised upon the son of a constable of Spain, it was afterwards +cultivated with much emulation in England, by Wallis and Holder, and was +lately professed by Mr. Baker, who once flattered me with hopes of seeing +his method published. How far any former teachers have succeeded, it is +not easy to know; the improvement of Mr. Braidwood's pupils is wonderful. +They not only speak, write, and understand what is written, but if he +that speaks looks towards them, and modifies his organs by distinct and +full utterance, they know so well what is spoken, that it is an +expression scarcely figurative to say, they hear with the eye. That any +have attained to the power mentioned by Burnet, of feeling sounds, by +laying a hand on the speaker's mouth, I know not; but I have seen so +much, that I can believe more; a single word, or a short sentence, I +think, may possibly be so distinguished. + +It will readily be supposed by those that consider this subject, that Mr. +Braidwood's scholars spell accurately. Orthography is vitiated among +such as learn first to speak, and then to write, by imperfect notions of +the relation between letters and vocal utterance; but to those students +every character is of equal importance; for letters are to them not +symbols of names, but of things; when they write they do not represent a +sound, but delineate a form. + +This school I visited, and found some of the scholars waiting for their +master, whom they are said to receive at his entrance with smiling +countenances and sparkling eyes, delighted with the hope of new ideas. +One of the young Ladies had her slate before her, on which I wrote a +question consisting of three figures, to be multiplied by two figures. +She looked upon it, and quivering her fingers in a manner which I thought +very pretty, but of which I know not whether it was art or play, +multiplied the sum regularly in two lines, observing the decimal place; +but did not add the two lines together, probably disdaining so easy an +operation. I pointed at the place where the sum total should stand, and +she noted it with such expedition as seemed to shew that she had it only +to write. + +It was pleasing to see one of the most desperate of human calamities +capable of so much help; whatever enlarges hope, will exalt courage; +after having seen the deaf taught arithmetick, who would be afraid to +cultivate the Hebrides? + +Such are the things which this journey has given me an opportunity of +seeing, and such are the reflections which that sight has raised. Having +passed my time almost wholly in cities, I may have been surprised by +modes of life and appearances of nature, that are familiar to men of +wider survey and more varied conversation. Novelty and ignorance must +always be reciprocal, and I cannot but be conscious that my thoughts on +national manners, are the thoughts of one who has seen but little. diff --git a/data/last.txt b/data/last.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcdfb3 --- /dev/null +++ b/data/last.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18951 @@ + SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION + + IN TWO VOLUMES + + VOL. I. BEING THE JOURNALS OF + + CAPTAIN R. F. SCOTT, R.N., C.V.O. + + VOL. II. BEING THE REPORTS OF THE JOURNEYS AND THE SCIENTIFIC WORK + UNDERTAKEN BY DR. E. A. WILSON AND THE SURVIVING MEMBERS OF THE + EXPEDITION + + ARRANGED BY + + LEONARD HUXLEY + + WITH A PREFACE BY + + SIR CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B., F.R.S. + +WITH PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECES, 6 ORIGINAL SKETCHES IN PHOTOGRAVURE BY + DR. E. A. WILSON, 18 COLOURED PLATES (10 FROM DRAWINGS BY DR. WILSON), + 260 FULL PAGE AND SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY + HERBERT G. PONTING AND OTHER MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION, PANORAMAS + AND MAPS + + VOLUME I + + NEW YORK + + 1913 + + + +PREFACE + +Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer, +able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors, +and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility +to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man living +could be found who was so well fitted to command a great Antarctic +Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. The object was +to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott +entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence +and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the +history of Arctic travelling, combined with experience of different +conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and +founder of Antarctic sledge travelling. + +His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings +along the barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the +discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the examination +of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria Mountains--a +range of great height and many hundreds of miles in length, which had +only before been seen from a distance out at sea--and above all the +discovery of the great ice cap on which the South Pole is situated, +by one of the most remarkable polar journeys on record. His small but +excellent scientific staff worked hard and with trained intelligence, +their results being recorded in twelve large quarto volumes. + +The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his +beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic +work. The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command +of battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that +five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labours. + +The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly scientific, +to complete and extend his former work in all branches of science. It +was his ambition that in his ship there should be the most completely +equipped expedition for scientific purposes connected with the polar +regions, both as regards men and material, that ever left these +shores. In this he succeeded. He had on board a fuller complement +of geologists, one of them especially trained for the study of +physiography, biologists, physicists, and surveyors than ever before +composed the staff of a polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott's objects +were strictly scientific, including the completion and extension +of his former discoveries. The results will be explained in the +second volume of this work. They will be found to be extensive and +important. Never before, in the polar regions, have meteorological, +magnetic and tidal observations been taken, in one locality, during +five years. It was also part of Captain Scott's plan to reach the +South Pole by a long and most arduous journey, but here again his +intention was, if possible, to achieve scientific results on the +way, especially hoping to discover fossils which would throw light +on the former history of the great range of mountains which he had +made known to science. + +The principal aim of this great man, for he rightly has his niche +among the polar Dii Majores, was the advancement of knowledge. From +all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable men of our time, and +the vast number of readers of his journal will be deeply impressed +with the beauty of his character. The chief traits which shone forth +through his life were conspicuous in the hour of death. There are few +events in history to be compared, for grandeur and pathos, with the +last closing scene in that silent wilderness of snow. The great leader, +with the bodies of his dearest friends beside him, wrote and wrote +until the pencil dropped from his dying grasp. There was no thought +of himself, only the earnest desire to give comfort and consolation +to others in their sorrow. His very last lines were written lest he +who induced him to enter upon Antarctic work should now feel regret +for what he had done. + +'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of him, +and never regretted his putting me in command of the _Discovery_.' + +CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM. + +Sept. 1913. + + + +Contents of the First Volume + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I + +THROUGH STORMY SEAS + +General Stowage--A Last Scene in New Zealand--Departure--On Deck with +the Dogs--The Storm--The Engine-room Flooded--Clearing the Pumps--Cape +Crozier as a Station--Birds of the South--A Pony's Memory--Tabular +Bergs--An Incomparable Scene--Formation of the Pack--Movements of +the Floes ... 1 + + +CHAPTER II + +IN THE PACK + +A Reported Island--Incessant Changes--The Imprisoning Ice--Ski-ing +and Sledging on the Floes--Movement of Bergs--Opening of the +Pack--A Damaged Rudder--To Stop or not to Stop--Nicknames--Ski +Exercise--Penguins and Music--Composite Floes--Banked Fires--Christmas +in the Ice--The Penguins and the Skua--Ice Movements--State of the +Ice-house--Still in the Ice--Life in the Pack--Escape from the Pack--A +Calm--The Pack far to the North--Science in the Ice ... 20 + + +CHAPTER III + +LAND + +Land at Last--Reach Cape Crozier--Cliffs of Cape Crozier--Landing +Impossible--Penguins and Killers--Cape Evans as Winter Station--The +Ponies Landed--Penguins' Fatuous Conduct--Adventure with Killer +Whales--Habits of the Killer Whale--Landing Stores--The Skuas +Nesting--Ponies and their Ways--Dangers of the Rotting Ice ... 53 + + +CHAPTER IV + +SETTLING IN + +Loss of a Motor--A Dog Dies--Result of Six Days' Work--Restive +Ponies--An Ice Cave--Loading Ballast--Pony Prospects--First Trip +to Hut Point--Return: Prospects of Sea Ice--A Secure Berth--The +Hut--Home Fittings and Autumn Plans--The Pianola--Seal Rissoles--The +Ship Stranded--Ice begins to go. ... 73 + + +CHAPTER V + +DEPOT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP + +Dogs and Ponies at Work--Stores for Depots--Old Stores at Discovery +Hut--To Encourage the Pony--Depôt Plans--Pony Snowshoes--Impressions +on the March--Further Impressions--Sledging Necessities and +Luxuries--A Better Surface--Chaos Without; Comfort Within--After the +Blizzard--Marching Routine--The Weakest Ponies Return--Bowers and +Cherry-Garrard--Snow Crusts and Blizzards--A Resented Frostbite--One +Ton Camp. ... 96 + + +CHAPTER VI + +ADVENTURE AND PERIL + +Dogs' and Ponies' Ways--The Dogs in a Crevasse--Rescue Work--Chances +of a Snow Bridge--The Dog Rations--A Startling Mail--Cross the Other +Party--The End of Weary Willy--The Ice Breaks--The Ponies on the +Floe--Safely Back. ... 122 + + +CHAPTER VII + +AT DISCOVERY HUT + +Fitting up the Old Hut--A Possible Land Route--The Geological Party +Arrives--Clothing--Exceptional Gales--Geology at Hut Point--An Ice +Foot Exposed--Stabling at Hut Point--Waiting for the Ice--A Clear +Day--Pancake Ice--Life at Hut Point--From Hut Point to Cape Evans--A +Blizzard on the Sea Ice--Dates of the Sea Freezing. ... 138 + + +CHAPTER VIII + +HOME IMPRESSIONS AND AN EXCURSION + +Baseless Fears about the Hut--The Death of 'Hackenschmidt'--The Dark +Room--The Biologists' Cubicle--An Artificer Cook--A Satisfactory +Organisation--Up an Ice Face--An Icy Run--On getting Hot ... 158 + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE WORK AND THE WORKERS + +Balloons--Occupations--Many Talents--The Young Ice goes out--Football: +Inverted Temperatures--Of Rainbows--Football: New Ice--Individual +Scientific Work--Individuals at Work--Thermometers on the Floe--Floe +Temperatures--A Bacterium in the Snow--Return of the Hut Point +Party--Personal Harmony ... 171 + + +CHAPTER X + +IN WINTER QUARTERS: MODERN STYLE + +On Penguins--The Electrical Instruments--On Horse Management--On +Ice Problems--The Aurora--The Nimrod Hut--Continued Winds--Modern +Interests--The Sense of Cold--On the Floes--A Tribute to Wilson ... 190 + + +CHAPTER XI + +TO MIDWINTER DAY + +Ventilation--On the Meteorological Instruments--Magnesium +Flashlight--On the Beardmore Glacier--Lively Discussions--Action of +Sea Water on Ice--A Theory of Blizzards--On Arctic Surveying--Ice +Structure--Ocean Life--On Volcanoes--Daily Routine--On Motor +Sledging--Crozier Party's Experiments--Midwinter Day Dinner--A +Christmas Tree--An Ethereal Glory ... 205 + + +CHAPTER XII + +AWAITING THE CROZIER PARTY + +Threats of a Blizzard--Start of the Crozier Party--Strange Winds--A +Current Vane--Pendulum Observations--Lost on the Floe--The Wanderer +Returns--Pony Parasites--A Great Gale--The Ways of Storekeepers--A +Sick Pony--A Sudden Recovery--Effects of Lack of Light--Winds of +Hurricane Force--Unexpected Ice Conditions--Telephones at Work--The +Cold on the Winter Journey--Shelterless in a Blizzard--A Most Gallant +Story--Winter Clothing Nearly Perfect. 228 + + +CHAPTER XIII + +THE RETURN OF THE SUN + +The Indomitable Bowers--A Theory of Blizzards--Ponies' Tricks--On +Horse Management--The Two Esquimaux Dogs--Balloon Records--On +Scurvy--From Tent Island--On India--Storms and Acclimatisation--On +Physiography--Another Lost Dog Returns--The Debris Cones--On Chinese +Adventures--Inverted Temperature. ... 255 + + +CHAPTER XIV + +PREPARATIONS: THE SPRING JOURNEY + +On Polar Clothing--Prospects of the Motor Sledges--South Polar Times, +II--The Spring Western Journey--The Broken Glacier Tongue--Marching +Against a Blizzard--The Value of Experience--General Activity--Final +Instructions ... 276 + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE LAST WEEKS AT CAPE EVANS + +Clissold's Accident--Various Invalids--Christopher's Capers--A Motor +Mishap--Dog Sickness--Some Personal Sketches--A Pony Accident--A +Football Knee--Value of the Motors--The Balance of Heat and Cold--The +First Motor on the Barrier--Last Days at Cape Evans. ... 290 + + +CHAPTER XVI + +SOUTHERN JOURNEY: THE BARRIER STAGE + +Midnight Lunches--A Motor Breaks Down--The Second Motor Fails--Curious +Features of the Blizzard--Ponies Suffer in a Blizzard--Ponies go +Well--A Head Wind--Bad Conditions Continue--At One Ton Camp--Winter +Minimum Temperature--Daily Rest in the Sun--Steady Plodding--The First +Pony Shot--A Trying March--The Second Pony Shot--Dogs, Ponies, and +Driving--The Southern Mountains Appear--The Third Blizzard--A Fourth +Blizzard--The Fifth and Long Blizzard--Patience and Resolution--Still +Held Up--The End of the Barrier Journey. ... 308 + + +CHAPTER XVII + +ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER + +Difficulties with Deep Snow--With Full Loads--After-Effects of the +Great Storm--A Fearful Struggle--Less Snow and Better Going--The Valley +of the Beardmore--Wilson Snow Blind--The Upper Glacier Basin--Return +of the First Party--Upper Glacier Depot. ... 340 + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +THE SUMMIT JOURNEY TO THE POLE + +Pressures Under Mount Darwin--A Change for the Better--Running of a +Sledge--Lost Time Made Up--Comfort of Double Tent--Last Supporting +Party Returns--Hard Work on the Summit--Accident to Evans--The Members +of the Party--Mishap to a Watch--A Chill in the Air--A Critical +Time--Forestalled--At the Pole. ... 354 + + +CHAPTER XIX + +THE RETURN FROM THE POLE + +A Hard Time on the Summit--First Signs of Weakening--Difficulty in +Following Tracks--Getting Hungrier--Accidents Multiply--Accident +to Scott--The Ice-fall--End of the Summit Journey--Happy Moments on +Firm Land--In a Maze of Crevasses--Mid-Glacier Depôt Reached--A Sick +Comrade--Death of P.O. Evans. ... 377 + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE LAST MARCH + +Snow Like Desert Sand--A Gloomy Prospect--No Help from the Wind--The +Grip of Cold--Three Blows of Misfortune--From Bad to Worse--A +Sick Comrade--Oates' Case Hopeless--The Death of Oates--Scott +Frostbitten--The Last Camp--Farewell Letters--The Last Message. ... 396 + + +APPENDIX ... 419 + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE FIRST VOLUME + + +Photogravure Plates + + +Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott, R.N., C.V.O. _Frontispiece_ +From a Painting by Harrington Mann + + +From Sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson + + +A Lead in the Pack 26 +On the Way to the Pole 364 +'Black Flag Camp'--Amundsen's Black Flag within a Few Miles of the +South Pole 367 +Amundsen's Tent at the South Pole 371 +Cairn left by the Norwegians S.S.W. from Black Flag Camp and Amundsen's +South Pole Mark 376 +Mount Buckley, One of the Last of Many Pencil Sketches made on the +Return Journey from the Pole 386 + + +Coloured Plates + +From Water-colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson + + +The Great Ice Barrier, looking east from Cape Crozier _Facing p_. 51 +Hut Point, Midnight, March 27, 1911 138 +A Sunset from Hut Point, April 2, 1911 150 +Mount Erebus 169 +Lunar Corona 176 +Paraselene, June 15, 1911 178 +'Birdie' Bowers reading the Thermometer on the Ramp, June 6, +1911 214 +Iridescent Clouds. Looking North from Cape Evans 257 +Exercising the Ponies 288 +Mr. Ponting Lecturing on Japan 202 + + +Panoramas + +From Photographs by Herbert G. Ponting + + +The Western Mountains as seen from Captain Scott's Winter Quarters +at Cape Evans _Facing p._ 126 +Mount Terror and its Glaciers 126 +The Royal Society Mountains of Victoria Land--Telephoto Study from +Cape Evans 284 +Mount Erebus and Glaciers to the Turk's Head 284 + + +Full Page Plates + +The Full Page Plates are from photographs by Herbert G. Ponting, +except where otherwise stated + + +The Crew of the 'Terra Nova' _Facing p._ 2 +Captain Oates and Ponies on the 'Terra Nova' 6 +'Vaida' 8 +'Krisravitsa' 8 +'Stareek' Malingering 8 +Manning the Pumps 10 +The First Iceberg 10 +Albatross Soaring 12 +Albatrosses Foraging in the Wake of the 'Terra Nova' 12 +Dr. Wilson and Dr. Atkinson loading the Harpoon Gun 14 +A. B. Cheetham--the Boatswain of the 'Terra Nova' 14 +Evening Scene in the Pack 17 +Lieut. Evans in the Crow's Nest 20 +Furling Sail in the Pack 20 +A Berg breaking up in the Pack 23 +Moonlight in the Pack 29 +Christmas Eve (1910) in the Pack 36 +'I don't care what becomes of Me' 44 +An Adelie about to Dive 44 +Open Water in the Ross Sea 46 +In the Pack--a Lead opening up 48 +Cape Crozier: the End of the Great Ice Barrier 54 +Ice-Blink over the Barrier 56 +The Barrier and Mount Terror 56 +The Midnight Sun in McMurdo Sound 58 +Entering McMurdo Sound--Cape Bird and Mount Erebus 60 +Surf breaking against Stranded Ice at Cape Evans 60 +The 'Terra Nova' in McMurdo Sound 62 +Disembarking the Ponies 64 +Ponies tethered out on the Sea Ice Facing p. 64 +Lieut. H. E. de P. Rennick 66 +Lieut. Rennick and a Friendly Penguin 66 +The Arch Berg from Within 68 +Something of a Phenomenon--A Fresh Water Cascade 71 +The Arch Berg from Without 74 +Ponting Cinematographs the Bow of the 'Terra Nova' Breaking through +the Ice-floes 76 +Landing a Motor-Sledge 76 +Lieut. Evans and Nelson Cutting a Cave for Cold Storage 78 +The Condition of Affairs a Week after Landing 78 +Killer Whales Rising to Blow 82 +Hut Point and Observation Hill 82 +The Tenements 84 +Plan of Hut Page 85 +The Point of the Barne Glacier Facing p. 90 +Winter Quarters at Cape Evans 94 +Lillie and Dr. Levick Sorting a Trawl Catch 101 +Seals Basking on Newly-formed Pancake Ice off Cape Evans 106 +Lieut. Tryggve Gran 112 +Captain Scott on Skis 118 +Summer Time: the Ice opening up 133 +Spray Ridges of Ice after a Blizzard 145 +A Berg Drifting in McMurdo Sound 155 +Pancake Ice Forming into Floes off Cape Evans 155 +Ponting Developing a Plate in the Dark Room 160 +The Falling of the Long Polar Night 164 +Depot Laying and Western Parties on their Return to Cape Evans 166 +A Blizzard Approaching across the Sea Ice 171 +The Barne Glacier: a Crevasse with a Thin Snow Bridge 174 +Dr. Wilson Working up the Sketch which is given at p. 178 180 +Dr. Simpson at the Unifilar Magnetometer 182 +Dr. Atkinson in his Laboratory 182 +Winter Work 184 +Dr. Atkinson and Clissold hauling up the Fish Trap 186 +The Freezing up of the Sea 188 +Whale-back Clouds over Mount Erebus 190 + (Photo by F. Debenham) +The Hut and the Western Mountains from the Top of the Ramp 194 +Cape Royds, looking North 199 +The Castle Berg Facing p. 205 +Captain Scott's Last Birthday Dinner 210 +Captain Scott in his 'Den' 218 +Dr. Wilson and Lieut Bowers reading the Ramp Thermometer in the Winter +Night, -40° Fahrenheit--a Flashlight Photograph 221 +Finnesko 228 +Ski-shoes for use with Finnesko 228 +Finnesko fitted with the Ski-shoes 228 +Finnesko with Crampons 228 +Dr. Atkinson's Frostbitten Hand 232 +Petty Officer Evans Binding up Dr. Atkinson's Hand 232 +Pony takes Whisky 234 +The Stables in Winter 234 +Oates and Meares at the Blubber Stove in the Stables 238 +Petty Officers Crean and Evans Exercising their Ponies in the +Winter 240 +Oates and Meares out Skiing in the Night 240 +Remarkable Cirrus Clouds over the Barne Glacier 244 +Lieut. Evans Observing an Occultation of Jupiter 247 +Dr. Simpson in the Hut at the Other End of the Telephone Timing the +Observation 247 +'Birdie' (Lieut. H. R. Bowers) 252 +The Summit of Mount Erebus 254 +Capt. L. E. G. Oates by the Stable Door 260 +Debenham, Gran, and Taylor in their Cubicle 264 +Nelson and his Gear 264 +Dr. Simpson sending up a Balloon 266 +The Polar Party's Sledging Ration 266 +An Ice Grotto--Tent Island in Distance 269 +Dr. Wilson Watching the First Rays of Sunlight being Recorded after +the long Winter Night 271 +The Return of the Sun 271 +C. H. Meares and 'Osman,' the Leader of the Dogs 274 +Meares and Demetri at 'Discovery' Hut 277 +The Main Party at Cape Evans after the Winter, 1911 280 +The Castle Berg at the End of the Winter 282 +Mount Erebus over a Water-worn Iceberg 290 +On the Summit of an Iceberg 290 +Dr. Wilson and Pony 'Nobby' 292 +Cherry-Garrard giving his Pony 'Michael' a roll in the Snow 292 +Surveying Party's Tent after a Blizzard Facing p 294 + (Photo by Lieut T Gran) +Dogs with Stores about to leave Hut Point 296 +Dogs Galloping towards the Barrier 296 +Meares and Demetri with their Dog-teams leaving Hut Point 296 +Dr. Wilson 298 +Preparing Sledges for Polar Journey 300 +Day's Motor under Way 302 +One of the Motor Sledges 302 +Meares and Demetri at the Blubber Stove in the 'Discovery' Hut 305 +The Motor Party 308 +H. G. Ponting and one of his Cinematograph Cameras 311 +Members of the Polar Party having a Meal in Camp 316 + (Enlarged from a cinematograph film) +Members of the Polar Party getting into their Sleeping-bags 322 + (Enlarged from a cinematograph film) +Ponies behind their Shelter in Camp on the Barrier 328 + (Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott) +Ponies on the March 334 + (Photo by F. Debenham) +Captain Scott wearing the Wallet in which he carried his Sledging +Journals 338 +Pressure on the Beardmore below the Cloudmaker Mountain 340 + (Photo by C. S. Wright) +Mount Kyffin 342 + (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) +Camp under the Wild Range 345 + (Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott) +Dr. Wilson Sketching on the Beardmore 348 + (Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott) +Some Members of the Supporting Parties as they appeared on their +Return from the Polar Journey 350 +Camp at Three Degree Depot 352 + (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) +Chief Stoker Lashly 355 +Petty Officer Crean 355 +Pitching the Double Tent on the Summit 358 + (Photo by Lieut H R Bowers) +The Polar Party on the Trail 360 + (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) +At the South Pole 374 + (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) +Amundsen's Tent at the South Pole Facing p. 380 + (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) +Sastrugi 382 +The Cloudmaker Mountain 390 + (Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers) +Petty Officer Edgar Evans, R.N. 392 +Facsimile of the Last Words of the Journal 403 +Facsimile of Message to the Public 414 + + + +Map + + +British Antarctic Expedition, 1910-1913--Track Chart of Main Southern +Journey At end of text + + + +British Antarctic Expedition, 1910 + + +Shore Parties + + +Officers + +Name. Rank, &c. +Robert Falcon Scott Captain, R.N., C.V.O. +Edward R. G. R. Evans Commander, R.N. +Victor L. A. Campbell Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List). +Henry R. Bowers Lieutenant, R.N. +Lawrence E. G. Oates Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons. +G. Murray Levick Surgeon, R.N. +Edward L. Atkinson Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist. + + +Scientific Staff + +Edward Adrian Wilson M.A., M.B., Chief of the Scientific + Staff, and Zoologist. +George C. Simpson D.Sc., Meteorologist. +T. Griffith Taylor B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist. +Edward W. Nelson Biologist. +Frank Debenham B.A., B.Sc., Geologist. +Charles S. Wright B.A., Physicist. +Raymond E. Priestley Geologist. +Herbert G. Ponting F.R.G.S., Camera Artist. +Cecil H. Meares In Charge of Dogs. +Bernard C. Day Motor Engineer. +Apsley Cherry-Garrard B.A., Asst. Zoologist. +Tryggve Gran Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R., + Ski Expert. + + +Men + +W. Lashly Chief Stoker. +W. W. Archer Chief Steward. +Thomas Clissold Cook, late R.N. +Edgar Evans Petty Officer, R.N. +Robert Forde Petty Officer, R.N. +Thomas Crean Petty Officer, R.N. +Thomas S. Williamson Petty Officer, R.N. +Patrick Keohane Petty Officer, R.N. +George P. Abbott Petty Officer, R.N. +Frank V. Browning Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N. +Harry Dickason Able Seaman, R.N. +F. J. Hooper Steward, late R.N. +Anton Omelchenko Groom. +Demetri Gerof Dog Driver. + + +Ship's Party + + +Officers, &c. + +Harry L. L. Pennell Lieutenant, R.N. +Henry E. de P. Rennick Lieutenant, R.N. +Wilfred M. Bruce Lieutenant, R.N.R. +Francis R. H. Drake Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired), + Secretary & Meteorologist in Ship. +Dennis G. Lillie M.A., Biologist in Ship. +James R. Denniston In Charge of Mules in Ship. +Alfred B. Cheetham R.N.R., Boatswain. +William Williams, O.N. Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N., Engineer. +William A. Horton, O.N. Eng. Rm. Art., 3rd Cl., R.N., 2nd Engr. +Francis E. C. Davies, O.N. Shipwright, R.N., Carpenter. +Frederick Parsons Petty Officer, R.N. +William L. Heald Late P.O., R.N. +Arthur S. Bailey Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N. +Albert Balson Leading Seaman, R.N. +Joseph Leese, O.N. Able Seaman, R.N. +John Hugh Mather, O.N. Petty Officer, R.N.V.R. +Robert Oliphant Able Seaman. +Thomas F. McLeon ,, ,, +Mortimer McCarthy ,, ,, +William Knowles ,, ,, +Charles Williams ,, ,, +James Skelton ,, ,, +William McDonald ,, ,, +James Paton ,, ,, +Robert Brissenden Leading Stoker, R.N. +Edward A. McKenzie ,, ,, ,, +William Burton Leading Stoker, R.N. +Bernard J. Stone ,, ,, ,, +Angus McDonald Fireman. +Thomas McGillon ,, +Charles Lammas ,, +W. H. Neale Steward. + + +GLOSSARY + + +_Barrier_. The immense sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of +still greater length, which lies south of Ross Island to the west of +Victoria Land. +_Brash_. Small ice fragments from a floe that is breaking up. +_Drift_. Snow swept from the ground like dust and driven before +the wind. +_Finnesko_. Fur boots. +_Flense, flence_. To cut the blubber from a skin or carcase. +_Frost_ _smoke_. A mist of water vapour above the open leads, condensed +by the severe cold. +_Hoosh_. A thick camp soup with a basis of pemmican. +_Ice-foot_. Properly the low fringe of ice formed about Polar lands +by the sea spray. More widely, the banks of ice of varying height +which skirt many parts of the Antarctic shores. +_Piedmont_. Coastwise stretches of the ancient ice sheet which once +covered the Antarctic Continent, remaining either on the land, or +wholly or partially afloat. +_Pram_. A Norwegian skiff, with a spoon bow. +_Primus_. A portable stove for cooking. +_Ramp_. A great embankment of morainic material with ice beneath, +once part of the glacier, on the lowest slopes of Erebus at the +landward end of C. Evans. +_Saennegras_. A kind of fine Norwegian hay, used as packing in the +finnesko to keep the feet warm and to make the fur boot fit firmly. +_Sastrugus_. An irregularity formed by the wind on a snowplain. 'Snow +wave' is not completely descriptive, as the sastrugus has often a +fantastic shape unlike the ordinary conception of a wave. +_Skua_. A large gull. +_Working_ _crack_. An open crack which leaves the ice free to move +with the movement of the water beneath. + + + + + +NOTE. + +Passages enclosed in inverted commas are taken from home letters of +Captain Scott. + +A number following a word in the text refers to a corresponding note +in the Appendix to this volume. + + + + +SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION + +CHAPTER I + +Through Stormy Seas + + +The Final Preparations in New Zealand + +The first three weeks of November have gone with such a rush that I +have neglected my diary and can only patch it up from memory. + +The dates seem unimportant, but throughout the period the officers +and men of the ship have been unremittingly busy. + +On arrival the ship was cleared of all the shore party stores, +including huts, sledges, &c. Within five days she was in dock. Bowers +attacked the ship's stores, surveyed, relisted, and restowed them, +saving very much space by unstowing numerous cases and stowing the +contents in the lazarette. Meanwhile our good friend Miller attacked +the leak and traced it to the stern. We found the false stem split, and +in one case a hole bored for a long-stem through-bolt which was much +too large for the bolt. Miller made the excellent job in overcoming +this difficulty which I expected, and since the ship has been afloat +and loaded the leak is found to be enormously reduced. The ship still +leaks, but the amount of water entering is little more than one would +expect in an old wooden vessel. + +The stream which was visible and audible inside the stern has been +entirely stopped. Without steam the leak can now be kept under with +the hand pump by two daily efforts of a quarter of an hour to twenty +minutes. As the ship was, and in her present heavily laden condition, +it would certainly have taken three to four hours each day. + +Before the ship left dock, Bowers and Wyatt were at work again in the +shed with a party of stevedores, sorting and relisting the shore party +stores. Everything seems to have gone without a hitch. The various +gifts and purchases made in New Zealand were collected--butter, +cheese, bacon, hams, some preserved meats, tongues. + +Meanwhile the huts were erected on the waste ground beyond the +harbour works. Everything was overhauled, sorted, and marked afresh +to prevent difficulty in the South. Davies, our excellent carpenter, +Forde, Abbott, and Keohane were employed in this work. The large +green tent was put up and proper supports made for it. + +When the ship came out of dock she presented a scene of great +industry. Officers and men of the ship, with a party of stevedores, +were busy storing the holds. Miller's men were building horse stalls, +caulking the decks, resecuring the deckhouses, putting in bolts and +various small fittings. The engine-room staff and Anderson's people +on the engines; scientists were stowing their laboratories; the cook +refitting his galley, and so forth--not a single spot but had its +band of workers. + +We prepared to start our stowage much as follows: The main hold +contains all the shore party provisions and part of the huts; +above this on the main deck is packed in wonderfully close fashion +the remainder of the wood of the huts, the sledges, and travelling +equipment, and the larger instruments and machines to be employed by +the scientific people; this encroaches far on the men's space, but +the extent has been determined by their own wish; they have requested, +through Evans, that they should not be considered: they were prepared +to pig it anyhow, and a few cubic feet of space didn't matter--such +is their spirit. + +The men's space, such as it is, therefore, extends from the fore +hatch to the stem on the main deck. + +Under the forecastle are stalls for fifteen ponies, the maximum the +space would hold; the narrow irregular space in front is packed tight +with fodder. + +Immediately behind the forecastle bulkhead is the small booby hatch, +the only entrance to the men's mess deck in bad weather. Next comes +the foremast, and between that and the fore hatch the galley and winch; +on the port side of the fore hatch are stalls for four ponies--a very +stout wooden structure. + +Abaft the fore hatch is the ice-house. We managed to get 3 tons of ice, +162 carcases of mutton, and three carcases of beef, besides some boxes +of sweetbreads and kidneys, into this space. The carcases are stowed +in tiers with wooden battens between the tiers--it looks a triumph +of orderly stowage, and I have great hope that it will ensure fresh +mutton throughout our winter. + +On either side of the main hatch and close up to the ice-house are +two out of our three motor sledges; the third rests across the break +of the poop in a space formerly occupied by a winch. + +In front of the break of the poop is a stack of petrol cases; a +further stack surmounted with bales of fodder stands between the main +hatch and the mainmast, and cases of petrol, paraffin, and alcohol, +arranged along either gangway. + +We have managed to get 405 tons of coal in bunkers and main hold, +25 tons in a space left in the fore hold, and a little over 30 tons +on the upper deck. + +The sacks containing this last, added to the goods already mentioned, +make a really heavy deck cargo, and one is naturally anxious concerning +it; but everything that can be done by lashing and securing has +been done. + +The appearance of confusion on deck is completed by our thirty-three +dogs_1_ chained to stanchions and bolts on the ice-house and on the +main hatch, between the motor sledges. + +With all these stores on board the ship still stood two inches +above her load mark. The tanks are filled with compressed forage, +except one, which contains 12 tons of fresh water, enough, we hope, +to take us to the ice. + +_Forage_.--I originally ordered 30 tons of compressed oaten hay from +Melbourne. Oates has gradually persuaded us that this is insufficient, +and our pony food weight has gone up to 45 tons, besides 3 or 4 tons +for immediate use. The extra consists of 5 tons of hay, 5 or 6 tons +of oil-cake, 4 or 5 tons of bran, and some crushed oats. We are not +taking any corn. + +We have managed to wedge in all the dog biscuits, the total weight +being about 5 tons; Meares is reluctant to feed the dogs on seal, +but I think we ought to do so during the winter. + +We stayed with the Kinseys at their house 'Te Han' at Clifton. The +house stands at the edge of the cliff, 400 feet above the sea, and +looks far over the Christchurch plains and the long northern beach +which limits it; close beneath one is the harbour bar and winding +estuary of the two small rivers, the Avon and Waimakariri. Far away +beyond the plains are the mountains, ever changing their aspect, and +yet farther in over this northern sweep of sea can be seen in clear +weather the beautiful snow-capped peaks of the Kaikouras. The scene is +wholly enchanting, and such a view from some sheltered sunny corner +in a garden which blazes with masses of red and golden flowers tends +to feelings of inexpressible satisfaction with all things. At night +we slept in this garden under peaceful clear skies; by day I was off +to my office in Christchurch, then perhaps to the ship or the Island, +and so home by the mountain road over the Port Hills. It is a pleasant +time to remember in spite of interruptions--and it gave time for many +necessary consultations with Kinsey. His interest in the expedition +is wonderful, and such interest on the part of a thoroughly shrewd +business man is an asset of which I have taken full advantage. Kinsey +will act as my agent in Christchurch during my absence; I have given +him an ordinary power of attorney, and I think have left him in +possession of all facts. His kindness to us was beyond words. + + +The Voyage Out + +_Saturday, November 26_.--We advertised our start at 3 P.M., and +at three minutes to that hour the _Terra Nova_ pushed off from +the jetty. A great mass of people assembled. K. and I lunched with +a party in the New Zealand Company's ship _Ruapehu_. Mr. Kinsey, +Ainsley, the Arthur and George Rhodes, Sir George Clifford, &c._2_ +K. and I went out in the ship, but left her inside the heads after +passing the _Cambrian_, the only Naval ship present. We came home in +the Harbour Tug; two other tugs followed the ship out and innumerable +small boats. Ponting busy with cinematograph. We walked over the +hills to Sumner. Saw the Terra Nova, a little dot to the S.E. + +_Monday, November_ 28.--Caught 8 o'clock express to Port Chalmers, +Kinsey saw us off. Wilson joined train. Rhodes met us Timaru. Telegram +to say _Terra Nova_ had arrived Sunday night. Arrived Port Chalmers +at 4.30. Found all well. + +_Tuesday, November_ 29.--Saw Fenwick _re Central News_ agreement--to +town. Thanked Glendenning for handsome gift, 130 grey jerseys. To +Town Hall to see Mayor. Found all well on board. + +We left the wharf at 2.30--bright sunshine--very gay scene. If anything +more craft following us than at Lyttelton--Mrs. Wilson, Mrs. Evans, +and K. left at Heads and back in Harbour Tug. Other tugs followed +farther with Volunteer Reserve Gunboat--all left about 4.30. Pennell +'swung' the ship for compass adjustment, then 'away.' + +_Evening_.--Loom of land and Cape Saunders Light blinking. + +_Wednesday, November_ 30.--Noon no miles. Light breeze from northward +all day, freshening towards nightfall and turning to N.W. Bright +sunshine. Ship pitching with south-westerly swell. All in good spirits +except one or two sick. + +We are away, sliding easily and smoothly through the water, but +burning coal--8 tons in 24 hours reported 8 P.M. + +_Thursday, December_ 1.--The month opens well on the whole. During +the night the wind increased; we worked up to 8, to 9, and to 9.5 +knots. Stiff wind from N.W. and confused sea. Awoke to much motion. + +The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the +circumstances. + +Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can +devise--and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close side +by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together and groom +between--swaying, swaying continually to the plunging, irregular +motion. + +One takes a look through a hole in the bulkhead and sees a row +of heads with sad, patient eyes come swinging up together from the +starboard side, whilst those on the port swing back; then up come the +port heads, whilst the starboard recede. It seems a terrible ordeal +for these poor beasts to stand this day after day for weeks together, +and indeed though they continue to feed well the strain quickly drags +down their weight and condition; but nevertheless the trial cannot be +gauged from human standards. There are horses which never lie down, +and all horses can sleep standing; anatomically they possess a ligament +in each leg which takes their weight without strain. Even our poor +animals will get rest and sleep in spite of the violent motion. Some 4 +or 5 tons of fodder and the ever watchful Anton take up the remainder +of the forecastle space. Anton is suffering badly from sea-sickness, +but last night he smoked a cigar. He smoked a little, then had an +interval of evacuation, and back to his cigar whilst he rubbed his +stomach and remarked to Oates 'no good'--gallant little Anton! + +There are four ponies outside the forecastle and to leeward of the +fore hatch, and on the whole, perhaps, with shielding tarpaulins, +they have a rather better time than their comrades. Just behind +the ice-house and on either side of the main hatch are two enormous +packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 × 5 × 4; mounted as +they are several inches above the deck they take a formidable amount +of space. A third sledge stands across the break of the poop in the +space hitherto occupied by the after winch. All these cases are covered +with stout tarpaulin and lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings, +so that they may be absolutely secure. + +The petrol for these sledges is contained in tins and drums protected +in stout wooden packing-cases which are ranged across the deck +immediately in front of the poop and abreast the motor sledges. The +quantity is 2 1/2 tons and the space occupied considerable. + +Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley forward +to the wheel aft, the deck is stacked with coal bags forming our deck +cargo of coal, now rapidly diminishing. + +We left Port Chalmers with 462 tons of coal on board, rather a +greater quantity than I had hoped for, and yet the load mark was +3 inches above the water. The ship was over 2 feet by the stern, +but this will soon be remedied. + +Upon the coal sacks, upon and between the motor sledges and upon +the ice-house are grouped the dogs, thirty-three in all. They must +perforce be chained up and they are given what shelter is afforded +on deck, but their position is not enviable. The seas continually +break on the weather bulwarks and scatter clouds of heavy spray over +the backs of all who must venture into, the waist of the ship. The +dogs sit with their tails to this invading water, their coats wet and +dripping. It is a pathetic attitude, deeply significant of cold and +misery; occasionally some poor beast emits a long pathetic whine. The +group forms a picture of wretched dejection; such a life is truly +hard for these poor creatures. + +We manage somehow to find a seat for everyone at our cabin table, +although the wardroom contains twenty-four officers. There are +generally one or two on watch, which eases matters, but it is a +squash. Our meals are simple enough, but it is really remarkable to +see the manner in which our two stewards, Hooper and Neald, provide +for all requirements, washing up, tidying cabin, and making themselves +generally useful in the cheerfullest manner. + +With such a large number of hands on board, allowing nine seamen in +each watch, the ship is easily worked, and Meares and Oates have their +appointed assistants to help them in custody of dogs and ponies, but +on such a night as the last with the prospect of dirty weather, the +'after guard' of volunteers is awake and exhibiting its delightful +enthusiasm in the cause of safety and comfort--some are ready to +lend a hand if there is difficulty with ponies and dogs, others in +shortening or trimming sails, and others again in keeping the bunkers +filled with the deck coal. + +I think Priestley is the most seriously incapacitated by +sea-sickness--others who might be as bad have had some experience +of the ship and her movement. Ponting cannot face meals but sticks +to his work; on the way to Port Chalmers I am told that he posed +several groups before the cinematograph, though obliged repeatedly +to retire to the ship's side. Yesterday he was developing plates with +the developing dish in one hand and an ordinary basin in the other! + +We have run 190 miles to-day: a good start, but inconvenient in one +respect--we have been making for Campbell Island, but early this +morning it became evident that our rapid progress would bring us to +the Island in the middle of the night, instead of to-morrow, as I had +anticipated. The delay of waiting for daylight would not be advisable +under the circumstances, so we gave up this item of our programme. + +Later in the day the wind has veered to the westward, heading us +slightly. I trust it will not go further round; we are now more +than a point to eastward of our course to the ice, and three points +to leeward of that to Campbell Island, so that we should not have +fetched the Island anyhow. + +_Friday, December_ 1.--A day of great disaster. From 4 o'clock last +night the wind freshened with great rapidity, and very shortly we were +under topsails, jib, and staysail only. It blew very hard and the sea +got up at once. Soon we were plunging heavily and taking much water +over the lee rail. Oates and Atkinson with intermittent assistance from +others were busy keeping the ponies on their legs. Cases of petrol, +forage, etc., began to break loose on the upper deck; the principal +trouble was caused by the loose coal-bags, which were bodily lifted by +the seas and swung against the lashed cases. 'You know how carefully +everything had been lashed, but no lashings could have withstood the +onslaught of these coal sacks for long'; they acted like battering +rams. 'There was nothing for it but to grapple with the evil, +and nearly all hands were labouring for hours in the waist of the +ship, heaving coal sacks overboard and re-lashing the petrol cases, +etc., in the best manner possible under such difficult and dangerous +circumstances. The seas were continually breaking over these people +and now and again they would be completely submerged. At such times +they had to cling for dear life to some fixture to prevent themselves +being washed overboard, and with coal bags and loose cases washing +about, there was every risk of such hold being torn away.' + +'No sooner was some semblance of order restored than some exceptionally +heavy wave would tear away the lashing and the work had to be done +all over again.' + +The night wore on, the sea and wind ever rising, and the ship ever +plunging more distractedly; we shortened sail to main topsail and +staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose. Tales +of ponies down came frequently from forward, where Oates and Atkinson +laboured through the entire night. Worse was to follow, much worse--a +report from the engine-room that the pumps had choked and the water +risen over the gratings. + +From this moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the centre +of interest. The water gained in spite of every effort. Lashley, +to his neck in rushing water, stuck gamely to the work of clearing +suctions. For a time, with donkey engine and bilge pump sucking, +it looked as though the water would be got under; but the hope was +short-lived: five minutes of pumping invariably led to the same +result--a general choking of the pumps. + +The outlook appeared grim. The amount of water which was being made, +with the ship so roughly handled, was most uncertain. 'We knew that +normally the ship was not making much water, but we also knew that a +considerable part of the water washing over the upper deck must be +finding its way below; the decks were leaking in streams. The ship +was very deeply laden; it did not need the addition of much water +to get her water-logged, in which condition anything might have +happened.' The hand pump produced only a dribble, and its suction +could not be got at; as the water crept higher it got in contact +with the boiler and grew warmer--so hot at last that no one could +work at the suctions. Williams had to confess he was beaten and must +draw fires. What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very +black. The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop, +a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of the +bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on the main +engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead. It was at such +times that the heaviest seas swept in over the lee rail; over and over +[again] the rail, from the forerigging to the main, was covered by a +solid sheet of curling water which swept aft and high on the poop. On +one occasion I was waist deep when standing on the rail of the poop. + +The scene on deck was devastating, and in the engine-room the water, +though really not great in quantity, rushed over the floor plates +and frames in a fashion that gave it a fearful significance. + +The afterguard were organised in two parties by Evans to work buckets; +the men were kept steadily going on the choked hand pumps--this +seemed all that could be done for the moment, and what a measure to +count as the sole safeguard of the ship from sinking, practically an +attempt to bale her out! Yet strange as it may seem the effort has not +been wholly fruitless--the string of buckets which has now been kept +going for four hours, [1] together with the dribble from the pump, +has kept the water under--if anything there is a small decrease. + +Meanwhile we have been thinking of a way to get at the suction of +the pump: a hole is being made in the engine-room bulkhead, the coal +between this and the pump shaft will be removed, and a hole made in +the shaft. With so much water coming on board, it is impossible to +open the hatch over the shaft. We are not out of the wood, but hope +dawns, as indeed it should for me, when I find myself so wonderfully +served. Officers and men are singing chanties over their arduous +work. Williams is working in sweltering heat behind the boiler to +get the door made in the bulkhead. Not a single one has lost his +good spirits. A dog was drowned last night, one pony is dead and two +others in a bad condition--probably they too will go. 'Occasionally +a heavy sea would bear one of them away, and he was only saved by +his chain. Meares with some helpers had constantly to be rescuing +these wretched creatures from hanging, and trying to find them better +shelter, an almost hopeless task. One poor beast was found hanging +when dead; one was washed away with such force that his chain broke +and he disappeared overboard; the next wave miraculously washed him +on board again and he is now fit and well.' The gale has exacted +heavy toll, but I feel all will be well if we can only cope with the +water. Another dog has just been washed overboard--alas! Thank God, +the gale is abating. The sea is still mountainously high, but the +ship is not labouring so heavily as she was. I pray we may be under +sail again before morning. + +_Saturday, December_ 3.--Yesterday the wind slowly fell towards +evening; less water was taken on board, therefore less found its way +below, and it soon became evident that our baling was gaining on the +engine-room. The work was steadily kept going in two-hour shifts. By +10 P.M. the hole in the engine-room bulkhead was completed, and +(Lieut.) Evans, wriggling over the coal, found his way to the pump +shaft and down it. He soon cleared the suction 'of the coal balls +(a mixture of coal and oil) which choked it,' and to the joy of all +a good stream of water came from the pump for the first time. From +this moment it was evident we should get over the difficulty, and +though the pump choked again on several occasions the water in the +engine-room steadily decreased. It was good to visit that spot this +morning and to find that the water no longer swished from side to +side. In the forenoon fires were laid and lighted--the hand pump was +got into complete order and sucked the bilges almost dry, so that +great quantities of coal and ashes could be taken out. + +Now all is well again, and we are steaming and sailing steadily south +within two points of our course. Campbell and Bowers have been busy +relisting everything on the upper deck. This afternoon we got out +the two dead ponies through the forecastle skylight. It was a curious +proceeding, as the space looked quite inadequate for their passage. We +looked into the ice-house and found it in the best order. + +Though we are not yet safe, as another gale might have disastrous +results, it is wonderful to realise the change which has been wrought +in our outlook in twenty-four hours. The others have confessed +the gravely serious view of our position which they shared with me +yesterday, and now we are all hopeful again. + +As far as one can gather, besides the damage to the bulwarks of +the ship, we have lost two ponies, one dog, '10 tons of coal,' 65 +gallons of petrol, and a case of the biologists' spirit--a serious +loss enough, but much less than I expected. 'All things considered we +have come off lightly, but it was bad luck to strike a gale at such +a time.' The third pony which was down in a sling for some time in +the gale is again on his feet. He looks a little groggy, but may pull +through if we don't have another gale. Osman, our best sledge dog, +was very bad this morning, but has been lying warmly in hay all day, +and is now much better. 'Several more were in a very bad way and +needed nursing back to life.' The sea and wind seem to be increasing +again, and there is a heavy southerly swell, but the glass is high; +we ought not to have another gale till it falls._3_ + +_Monday, December_ 5.--Lat. 56° 40'.--The barometer has been almost +steady since Saturday, the wind rising and falling slightly, but +steady in direction from the west. From a point off course we have +crept up to the course itself. Everything looks prosperous except +the ponies. Up to this morning, in spite of favourable wind and sea, +the ship has been pitching heavily to a south-westerly swell. This has +tried the animals badly, especially those under the forecastle. We had +thought the ponies on the port side to be pretty safe, but two of them +seem to me to be groggy, and I doubt if they could stand more heavy +weather without a spell of rest. I pray there may be no more gales. We +should be nearing the limits of the westerlies, but one cannot be +sure for at least two days. There is still a swell from the S.W., +though it is not nearly so heavy as yesterday, but I devoutly wish it +would vanish altogether. So much depends on fine weather. December +ought to be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always has been, and +just now conditions point to fine weather. Well, we must be prepared +for anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about these animals of ours. + +The dogs have quite recovered since the fine weather--they are quite +in good form again. + +Our deck cargo is getting reduced; all the coal is off the upper +deck and the petrol is re-stored in better fashion; as far as that +is concerned we should not mind another blow. Campbell and Bowers +have been untiring in getting things straight on deck. + +The idea of making our station Cape Crozier has again come on the +tapis. There would be many advantages: the ease of getting there at an +early date, the fact that none of the autumn or summer parties could +be cut off, the fact that the main Barrier could be reached without +crossing crevasses and that the track to the Pole would be due south +from the first:--the mild condition and absence of blizzards at the +penguin rookery, the opportunity of studying the Emperor penguin +incubation, and the new interest of the geology of Terror, besides +minor facilities, such as the getting of ice, stones for shelters, +&c. The disadvantages mainly consist in the possible difficulty of +landing stores--a swell would make things very unpleasant, and might +possibly prevent the landing of the horses and motors. Then again +it would be certain that some distance of bare rock would have to +be traversed before a good snow surface was reached from the hut, +and possibly a climb of 300 or 400 feet would intervene. Again, +it might be difficult to handle the ship whilst stores were being +landed, owing to current, bergs, and floe ice. It remains to be seen, +but the prospect is certainly alluring. At a pinch we could land the +ponies in McMurdo Sound and let them walk round. + +The sun is shining brightly this afternoon, everything is drying, +and I think the swell continues to subside. + +_Tuesday, December_ 6.--Lat. 59° 7'. Long. 177° 51' E. Made good +S. 17 E. 153; 457' to Circle. The promise of yesterday has been +fulfilled, the swell has continued to subside, and this afternoon +we go so steadily that we have much comfort. I am truly thankful +mainly for the sake of the ponies; poor things, they look thin and +scraggy enough, but generally brighter and fitter. There is no doubt +the forecastle is a bad place for them, but in any case some must +have gone there. The four midship ponies, which were expected to be +subject to the worst conditions, have had a much better time than their +fellows. A few ponies have swollen legs, but all are feeding well. The +wind failed in the morning watch and later a faint breeze came from the +eastward; the barometer has been falling, but not on a steep gradient; +it is still above normal. This afternoon it is overcast with a Scotch +mist. Another day ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales. + +We still continue to discuss the project of landing at Cape Crozier, +and the prospect grows more fascinating as we realise it. For +instance, we ought from such a base to get an excellent idea of the +Barrier movement, and of the relative movement amongst the pressure +ridges. There is no doubt it would be a tremendous stroke of luck to +get safely landed there with all our paraphernalia. + +Everyone is very cheerful--one hears laughter and song all day--it's +delightful to be with such a merry crew. A week from New Zealand +to-day. + +_Wednesday, December_ 7.--Lat. 61° 22'. Long. 179° 56' W. Made good +S. 25 E. 150; Ant. Circle 313'. The barometer descended on a steep +regular gradient all night, turning suddenly to an equally steep up +grade this morning. With the turn a smart breeze sprang up from the +S.W. and forced us three points off our course. The sea has remained +calm, seeming to show that the ice is not far off; this afternoon +temperature of air and water both 34°, supporting the assumption. The +wind has come fair and we are on our course again, going between 7 +and 8 knots. + +Quantities of whale birds about the ship, the first fulmars and the +first McCormick skua seen. Last night saw 'hour glass' dolphins +about. Sooty and black-browed albatrosses continue, with Cape +chickens. The cold makes people hungry and one gets just a tremor on +seeing the marvellous disappearance of consumables when our twenty-four +young appetites have to be appeased. + +Last night I discussed the Western Geological Party, and explained to +Ponting the desirability of his going with it. I had thought he ought +to be in charge, as the oldest and most experienced traveller, and +mentioned it to him--then to Griffith Taylor. The latter was evidently +deeply disappointed. So we three talked the matter out between us, and +Ponting at once disclaimed any right, and announced cheerful agreement +with Taylor's leadership; it was a satisfactory arrangement, and shows +Ponting in a very pleasant light. I'm sure he's a very nice fellow. + +I would record here a symptom of the spirit which actuates the +men. After the gale the main deck under the forecastle space in +which the ponies are stabled leaked badly, and the dirt of the +stable leaked through on hammocks and bedding. Not a word has been +said; the men living in that part have done their best to fend +off the nuisance with oilskins and canvas, but without sign of +complaint. Indeed the discomfort throughout the mess deck has been +extreme. Everything has been thrown about, water has found its way +down in a dozen places. There is no daylight, and air can come only +through the small fore hatch; the artificial lamplight has given much +trouble. The men have been wetted to the skin repeatedly on deck, +and have no chance of drying their clothing. All things considered, +their cheerful fortitude is little short of wonderful. + +_First Ice_.--There was a report of ice at dinner to-night. Evans +corroborated Cheetham's statement that there was a berg far away to +the west, showing now and again as the sun burst through the clouds. + +_Thursday, December_ 8.--63° 20'. 177° 22'. S. 31 E. 138'; to +Circle 191'. The wind increased in the first watch last night to +a moderate gale. The ship close hauled held within two points of +her course. Topgallant sails and mainsail were furled, and later in +the night the wind gradually crept ahead. At 6 A.M. we were obliged +to furl everything, and throughout the day we have been plunging +against a stiff breeze and moderate sea. This afternoon by keeping a +little to eastward of the course, we have managed to get fore and aft +sail filled. The barometer has continued its steady upward path for +twenty-four hours; it shows signs of turning, having reached within +1/10th of 30 inches. It was light throughout last night (always a +cheerful condition), but this head wind is trying to the patience, +more especially as our coal expenditure is more than I estimated. We +manage 62 or 63 revolutions on about 9 tons, but have to distil every +three days at expense of half a ton, and then there is a weekly half +ton for the cook. It is certainly a case of fighting one's way South. + +I was much disturbed last night by the motion; the ship was pitching +and twisting with short sharp movements on a confused sea, and with +every plunge my thoughts flew to our poor ponies. This afternoon +they are fairly well, but one knows that they must be getting weaker +as time goes on, and one longs to give them a good sound rest with +the ship on an even keel. Poor patient beasts! One wonders how far +the memory of such fearful discomfort will remain with them--animals +so often remember places and conditions where they have encountered +difficulties or hurt. Do they only recollect circumstances which are +deeply impressed by some shock of fear or sudden pain, and does the +remembrance of prolonged strain pass away? Who can tell? But it would +seem strangely merciful if nature should blot out these weeks of slow +but inevitable torture. + +The dogs are in great form again; for them the greatest circumstance +of discomfort is to be constantly wet. It was this circumstance +prolonged throughout the gale which nearly lost us our splendid leader +'Osman.' In the morning he was discovered utterly exhausted and only +feebly trembling; life was very nearly out of him. He was buried in +hay, and lay so for twenty-four hours, refusing food--the wonderful +hardihood of his species was again shown by the fact that within +another twenty-four hours he was to all appearance as fit as ever. + +Antarctic petrels have come about us. This afternoon one was caught. + +Later, about 7 P.M. Evans saw two icebergs far on the port beam; they +could only be seen from the masthead. Whales have been frequently +seen--Balænoptera Sibbaldi--supposed to be the biggest mammal that +has ever existed._4_ + +_Friday, December_ 9.--65° 8'. 177° 41'. Made good S. 4 W. 109'; +Scott Island S. 22 W. 147'. At six this morning bergs and pack were +reported ahead; at first we thought the pack might consist only of +fragments of the bergs, but on entering a stream we found small worn +floes--the ice not more than two or three feet in thickness. 'I had +hoped that we should not meet it till we reached latitude 66 1/2 or +at least 66.' We decided to work to the south and west as far as the +open water would allow, and have met with some success. At 4 P.M., +as I write, we are still in open water, having kept a fairly straight +course and come through five or six light streams of ice, none more +than 300 yards across. + +We have passed some very beautiful bergs, mostly tabular. The heights +have varied from 60 to 80 feet, and I am getting to think that this +part of the Antarctic yields few bergs of greater altitude. + +Two bergs deserve some description. One, passed very close on port +hand in order that it might be cinematographed, was about 80 feet in +height, and tabular. It seemed to have been calved at a comparatively +recent date. + +The above picture shows its peculiarities, and points to the +desirability of close examination of other berg faces. There seemed +to be a distinct difference of origin between the upper and lower +portions of the berg, as though a land glacier had been covered by +layer after layer of seasonal snow. Then again, what I have described +as 'intrusive layers of blue ice' was a remarkable feature; one +could imagine that these layers represent surfaces which have been +transformed by regelation under hot sun and wind. + +This point required investigation. + +The second berg was distinguished by innumerable vertical cracks. These +seemed to run criss-cross and to weaken the structure, so that the +various séracs formed by them had bent to different angles and shapes, +giving a very irregular surface to the berg, and a face scarred with +immense vertical fissures. + +One imagines that such a berg has come from a region of ice disturbance +such as King Edward's Land. + +We have seen a good many whales to-day, rorquals with high black +spouts--_Balænoptera Sibbaldi_. + +The birds with us: Antarctic and snow petrel--a fulmar--and this +morning Cape pigeon. + +We have pack ice farther north than expected, and it's impossible to +interpret the fact. One hopes that we shall not have anything heavy, +but I'm afraid there's not much to build upon. 10 P.M.--We have made +good progress throughout the day, but the ice streams thicken as we +advance, and on either side of us the pack now appears in considerable +fields. We still pass quantities of bergs, perhaps nearly one-half +the number tabular, but the rest worn and fantastic. + +The sky has been wonderful, with every form of cloud in every condition +of light and shade; the sun has continually appeared through breaks +in the cloudy heavens from time to time, brilliantly illuminating some +field of pack, some steep-walled berg, or some patch of bluest sea. So +sunlight and shadow have chased each other across our scene. To-night +there is little or no swell--the ship is on an even keel, steady, +save for the occasional shocks on striking ice. + +It is difficult to express the sense of relief this steadiness gives +after our storm-tossed passage. One can only imagine the relief and +comfort afforded to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and +the human element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise +in spite of the imminence of delay. + +If the pack becomes thick I shall certainly put the fires out and wait +for it to open. I do not think it ought to remain close for long in +this meridian. To-night we must be beyond the 66th parallel. + +_Saturday, December_ 10.--Dead Reckoning 66° 38'. Long. 178° +47'. Made good S. 17 W. 94. C. Crozier 688'. Stayed on deck till +midnight. The sun just dipped below the southern horizon. The scene +was incomparable. The northern sky was gloriously rosy and reflected +in the calm sea between the ice, which varied from burnished copper to +salmon pink; bergs and pack to the north had a pale greenish hue with +deep purple shadows, the sky shaded to saffron and pale green. We gazed +long at these beautiful effects. The ship made through leads during the +night; morning found us pretty well at the end of the open water. We +stopped to water ship from a nice hummocky floe. We made about 8 tons +of water. Rennick took a sounding, 1960 fathoms; the tube brought up +two small lumps of volcanic lava with the usual globigerina ooze. + +Wilson shot a number of Antarctic petrel and snowy petrel. Nelson +got some crustaceans and other beasts with a vertical tow net, and +got a water sample and temperatures at 400 metres. The water was +warmer at that depth. About 1.30 we proceeded at first through fairly +easy pack, then in amongst very heavy old floes grouped about a big +berg; we shot out of this and made a détour, getting easier going; +but though the floes were less formidable as we proceeded south, +the pack grew thicker. I noticed large floes of comparatively thin +ice very sodden and easily split; these are similar to some we went +through in the _Discovery_, but tougher by a month. + +At three we stopped and shot four crab-eater seals; to-night we had +the livers for dinner--they were excellent. + +To-night we are in very close pack--it is doubtful if it is worth +pushing on, but an arch of clear sky which has shown to the southward +all day makes me think that there must be clearer water in that +direction; perhaps only some 20 miles away--but 20 miles is much +under present conditions. As I came below to bed at 11 P.M. Bruce +was slogging away, making fair progress, but now and again brought up +altogether. I noticed the ice was becoming much smoother and thinner, +with occasional signs of pressure, between which the ice was very thin. + +'We had been very carefully into all the evidence of former voyages +to pick the best meridian to go south on, and I thought and still +think that the evidence points to the 178 W. as the best. We entered +the pack more or less on this meridian, and have been rewarded by +encountering worse conditions than any ship has had before. Worse, in +fact, than I imagined would have been possible on any other meridian +of those from which we could have chosen. + +'To understand the difficulty of the position you must appreciate +what the pack is and how little is known of its movements. + +'The pack in this part of the world consists (1) of the ice which has +formed over the sea on the fringe of the Antarctic continent during +the last winter; (2) of very heavy old ice floes which have broken +out of bays and inlets during the previous summer, but have not had +time to get north before the winter set in; (3) of comparatively +heavy ice formed over the Ross Sea early in the last winter; and (4) +of comparatively thin ice which has formed over parts of the Ross +Sea in middle or towards the end of the last winter. + +'Undoubtedly throughout the winter all ice-sheets move and twist, +tear apart and press up into ridges, and thousands of bergs charge +through these sheets, raising hummocks and lines of pressure and +mixing things up; then of course where such rents are made in the +winter the sea freezes again, forming a newer and thinner sheet. + +'With the coming of summer the northern edge of the sheet decays +and the heavy ocean swell penetrates it, gradually breaking it into +smaller and smaller fragments. Then the whole body moves to the north +and the swell of the Ross Sea attacks the southern edge of the pack. + +'This makes it clear why at the northern and southern limits the +pieces or ice-floes are comparatively small, whilst in the middle the +floes may be two or three miles across; and why the pack may and does +consist of various natures of ice-floes in extraordinary confusion. + +'Further it will be understood why the belt grows narrower and the +floes thinner and smaller as the summer advances. + +'We know that where thick pack may be found early in January, open +water and a clear sea may be found in February, and broadly that the +later the date the easier the chance of getting through. + +'A ship going through the pack must either break through the floes, +push them aside, or go round them, observing that she cannot push +floes which are more than 200 or 300 yards across. + +'Whether a ship can get through or not depends on the thickness and +nature of the ice, the size of the floes and the closeness with which +they are packed together, as well as on her own power. + +'The situation of the main bodies of pack and the closeness with +which the floes are packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing +winds. One cannot tell what winds have prevailed before one's arrival; +therefore one cannot know much about the situation or density. + +'Within limits the density is changing from day to day and even +from hour to hour; such changes depend on the wind, but it may +not necessarily be a local wind, so that at times they seem almost +mysterious. One sees the floes pressing closely against one another +at a given time, and an hour or two afterwards a gap of a foot or +more may be seen between each. + +'When the floes are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes +impossible to force a way through, but when there is release of +pressure the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag path.' + + + +CHAPTER II + +In the Pack + +_Sunday, December_ ll.--The ice grew closer during the night, and +at 6 it seemed hopeless to try and get ahead. The pack here is very +regular; the floes about 2 1/2 feet thick and very solid. They are +pressed closely together, but being irregular in shape, open spaces +frequently occur, generally triangular in shape. + +It might be noted that such ice as this occupies much greater space +than it originally did when it formed a complete sheet--hence if the +Ross Sea were wholly frozen over in the spring, the total quantity +of pack to the north of it when it breaks out must be immense. + +This ice looks as though it must have come from the Ross Sea, and +yet one is puzzled to account for the absence of pressure. + +We have lain tight in the pack all day; the wind from 6 A.M. strong +from W. and N.W., with snow; the wind has eased to-night, and for some +hours the glass, which fell rapidly last night, has been stationary. I +expect the wind will shift soon; pressure on the pack has eased, +but so far it has not opened. + +This morning Rennick got a sounding at 2015 fathoms from bottom +similar to yesterday, with small pieces of basic lava; these two +soundings appear to show a great distribution of this volcanic rock +by ice. The line was weighed by hand after the soundings. I read +Service in the wardroom. + +This afternoon all hands have been away on ski over the floes. It +is delightful to get the exercise. I'm much pleased with the ski and +ski boots--both are very well adapted to our purposes. + +This waiting requires patience, though I suppose it was to be expected +at such an early season. It is difficult to know when to try and push +on again. + +_Monday, December_ 12.--The pack was a little looser this morning; +there was a distinct long swell apparently from N.W. The floes were +not apart but barely touching the edges, which were hard pressed +yesterday; the wind still holds from N.W., but lighter. Gran, Oates, +and Bowers went on ski towards a reported island about which there +had been some difference of opinion. I felt certain it was a berg, +and it proved to be so; only of a very curious dome shape with very +low cliffs all about. + +Fires were ordered for 12, and at 11.30 we started steaming with plain +sail set. We made, and are making fair progress on the whole, but it +is very uneven. We escaped from the heavy floes about us into much +thinner pack, then through two water holes, then back to the thinner +pack consisting of thin floes of large area fairly easily broken. All +went well till we struck heavy floes again, then for half an hour we +stopped dead. Then on again, and since alternately bad and good--that +is, thin young floes and hoary older ones, occasionally a pressed up +berg, very heavy. + +The best news of yesterday was that we drifted 15 miles to the S.E., +so that we have not really stopped our progress at all, though it has, +of course, been pretty slow. + +I really don't know what to think of the pack, or when to hope for +open water. + +We tried Atkinson's blubber stove this afternoon with great +success. The interior of the stove holds a pipe in a single coil +pierced with holes on the under side. These holes drip oil on to an +asbestos burner. The blubber is placed in a tank suitably built around +the chimney; the overflow of oil from this tank leads to the feed pipe +in the stove, with a cock to regulate the flow. A very simple device, +but as has been shown a very effective one; the stove gives great heat, +but, of course, some blubber smell. However, with such stoves in the +south one would never lack cooked food or warm hut. + +Discussed with Wright the fact that the hummocks on sea ice always +yield fresh water. We agreed that the brine must simply run down +out of the ice. It will be interesting to bring up a piece of sea +ice and watch this process. But the fact itself is interesting as +showing that the process producing the hummock is really producing +fresh water. It may also be noted as phenomenon which makes _all_ +the difference to the ice navigator._5_ + +Truly the getting to our winter quarters is no light task; at first the +gales and heavy seas, and now this continuous fight with the pack ice. + +8 P.M.--We are getting on with much bumping and occasional 'hold ups.' + +_Tuesday, December_ 13.--I was up most of the night. Never have I +experienced such rapid and complete changes of prospect. Cheetham +in the last dog watch was running the ship through sludgy new ice, +making with all sail set four or five knots. Bruce, in the first, +took over as we got into heavy ice again; but after a severe tussle +got through into better conditions. The ice of yesterday loose with +sludgy thin floes between. The middle watch found us making for an +open lead, the ice around hard and heavy. We got through, and by +sticking to the open water and then to some recently frozen pools +made good progress. At the end of the middle watch trouble began +again, and during this and the first part of the morning we were +wrestling with the worst conditions we have met. Heavy hummocked +bay ice, the floes standing 7 or 8 feet out of water, and very deep +below. It was just such ice as we encountered at King Edward's Land +in the _Discovery_. I have never seen anything more formidable. The +last part of the morning watch was spent in a long recently frozen +lead or pool, and the ship went well ahead again. + +These changes sound tame enough, but they are a great strain on +one's nerves--one is for ever wondering whether one has done right +in trying to come down so far east, and having regard to coal, what +ought to be done under the circumstances. + +In the first watch came many alterations of opinion; time and again it +looks as though we ought to stop when it seemed futile to be pushing +and pushing without result; then would come a stretch of easy going and +the impression that all was going very well with us. The fact of the +matter is, it is difficult not to imagine the conditions in which one +finds oneself to be more extensive than they are. It is wearing to have +to face new conditions every hour. This morning we met at breakfast +in great spirits; the ship has been boring along well for two hours, +then Cheetham suddenly ran her into a belt of the worst and we were +held up immediately. We can push back again, I think, but meanwhile +we have taken advantage of the conditions to water ship. These big +floes are very handy for that purpose at any rate. Rennick got a +sounding 2124 fathoms, similar bottom _including_ volcanic lava. + +_December_ 13 (_cont_.).--67° 30' S. 177° 58' W. Made good S. 20 +E. 27'. C. Crozier S. 21 W. 644'.--We got in several tons of ice, +then pushed off and slowly and laboriously worked our way to one of +the recently frozen pools. It was not easily crossed, but when we came +to its junction with the next part to the S.W. (in which direction I +proposed to go) we were quite hung up. A little inspection showed that +the big floes were tending to close. It seems as though the tenacity of +the 6 or 7 inches of recent ice over the pools is enormously increased +by lateral pressure. But whatever the cause, we could not budge. + +We have decided to put fires out and remain here till the conditions +change altogether for the better. It is sheer waste of coal to make +further attempts to break through as things are at present. + +We have been set to the east during the past days; is it the normal +set in the region, or due to the prevalence of westerly winds? Possibly +much depends on this as concerns our date of release. It is annoying, +but one must contain one's soul in patience and hope for a brighter +outlook in a day or two. Meanwhile we shall sound and do as much +biological work as is possible. + +The pack is a sunless place as a rule; this morning we had bright +sunshine for a few hours, but later the sky clouded over from the +north again, and now it is snowing dismally. It is calm. + +_Wednesday, December_ 14.--Position, N. 2', W. 1/2'. The pack still +close around. From the masthead one can see a few patches of open +water in different directions, but the main outlook is the same +scene of desolate hummocky pack. The wind has come from the S.W., +force 2; we have bright sunshine and good sights. The ship has swung +to the wind and the floes around are continually moving. They change +their relative positions in a slow, furtive, creeping fashion. The +temperature is 35°, the water 29.2° to 29.5°. Under such conditions +the thin sludgy ice ought to be weakening all the time; a few inches +of such stuff should allow us to push through anywhere. + +One realises the awful monotony of a long stay in the pack, such as +Nansen and others experienced. One can imagine such days as these +lengthening into interminable months and years. + +For us there is novelty, and everyone has work to do or makes work, +so that there is no keen sense of impatience. + +Nelson and Lillie were up all night with the current meter; it is not +quite satisfactory, but some result has been obtained. They will also +get a series of temperatures and samples and use the vertical tow net. + +The current is satisfactory. Both days the fixes have been good--it +is best that we should go north and west. I had a great fear that we +should be drifted east and so away to regions of permanent pack. If +we go on in this direction it can only be a question of time before +we are freed. + +We have all been away on ski on the large floe to which we anchored +this morning. Gran is wonderfully good and gives instruction well. It +was hot and garments came off one by one--the Soldier [2] and Atkinson +were stripped to the waist eventually, and have been sliding round +the floe for some time in that condition. Nearly everyone has been +wearing goggles; the glare is very bad. Ponting tried to get a colour +picture, but unfortunately the ice colours are too delicate for this. + +To-night Campbell, Evans, and I went out over the floe, and each in +turn towed the other two; it was fairly easy work--that is, to pull +310 to 320 lbs. One could pull it perhaps more easily on foot, yet +it would be impossible to pull such a load on a sledge. What a puzzle +this pulling of loads is! If one could think that this captivity was +soon to end there would be little reason to regret it; it is giving +practice with our deep sea gear, and has made everyone keen to learn +the proper use of ski. + +The swell has increased considerably, but it is impossible to tell +from what direction it comes; one can simply note that the ship and +brash ice swing to and fro, bumping into the floe. + +We opened the ice-house to-day, and found the meat in excellent +condition--most of it still frozen. + +_Thursday, December_ 15.--66° 23' S. 177° 59' W. Sit. N. 2', E. 5 +1/2'.--In the morning the conditions were unaltered. Went for a ski +run before breakfast. It makes a wonderful difference to get the +blood circulating by a little exercise. + +After breakfast we served out ski to the men of the landing party. They +are all very keen to learn, and Gran has been out morning and afternoon +giving instruction. + +Meares got some of his dogs out and a sledge--two lots of seven--those +that looked in worst condition (and several are getting very fat) were +tried. They were very short of wind--it is difficult to understand +how they can get so fat, as they only get two and a half biscuits +a day at the most. The ponies are looking very well on the whole, +especially those in the outside stalls. + +Rennick got a sounding to-day 1844 fathoms; reversible thermometers +were placed close to bottom and 500 fathoms up. We shall get a very +good series of temperatures from the bottom up during the wait. Nelson +will try to get some more current observations to-night or to-morrow. + +It is very trying to find oneself continually drifting north, but +one is thankful not to be going east. + +To-night it has fallen calm and the floes have decidedly opened; +there is a lot of water about the ship, but it does not look to extend +far. Meanwhile the brash and thinner floes are melting; everything +of that sort must help--but it's trying to the patience to be delayed +like this. + +We have seen enough to know that with a north-westerly or westerly +wind the floes tend to pack and that they open when it is calm. The +question is, will they open more with an easterly or south-easterly +wind--that is the hope. + +Signs of open water round and about are certainly increasing rather +than diminishing. + +_Friday, December_ 16.--The wind sprang up from the N.E. this morning, +bringing snow, thin light hail, and finally rain; it grew very thick +and has remained so all day. + +Early the floe on which we had done so much ski-ing broke up, and +we gathered in our ice anchors, then put on head sail, to which she +gradually paid off. With a fair wind we set sail on the foremast, +and slowly but surely she pushed the heavy floes aside. At lunch +time we entered a long lead of open water, and for nearly half an +hour we sailed along comfortably in it. Entering the pack again, +we found the floes much lighter and again pushed on slowly. In all +we may have made as much as three miles. + +I have observed for some time some floes of immense area forming a +chain of lakes in this pack, and have been most anxious to discover +their thickness. They are most certainly the result of the freezing +of comparatively recent pools in the winter pack, and it follows +that they must be getting weaker day by day. If one could be certain +firstly, that these big areas extend to the south, and, secondly, +that the ship could go through them, it would be worth getting up +steam. We have arrived at the edge of one of these floes, and the +ship will not go through under sail, but I'm sure she would do so +under steam. Is this a typical floe? And are there more ahead? + +One of the ponies got down this afternoon--Oates thinks it was probably +asleep and fell, but the incident is alarming; the animals are not +too strong. On this account this delay is harassing--otherwise we +should not have much to regret. + +_Saturday, December_ 17.--67° 24'. 177° 34'. Drift for 48 hours S. 82 +E. 9.7'. It rained hard and the glass fell rapidly last night with +every sign of a coming gale. This morning the wind increased to force +6 from the west with snow. At noon the barograph curve turned up and +the wind moderated, the sky gradually clearing. + +To-night it is fairly bright and clear; there is a light south-westerly +wind. It seems rather as though the great gales of the Westerlies must +begin in these latitudes with such mild disturbances as we have just +experienced. I think it is the first time I have known rain beyond +the Antarctic circle--it is interesting to speculate on its effect +in melting the floes. + +We have scarcely moved all day, but bergs which have become quite +old friends through the week are on the move, and one has approached +and almost circled us. Evidently these bergs are moving about in an +irregular fashion, only they must have all travelled a little east in +the forty-eight hours as we have done. Another interesting observation +to-night is that of the slow passage of a stream of old heavy floes +past the ship and the lighter ice in which she is held. + +There are signs of water sky to the south, and I'm impatient to +be off, but still one feels that waiting may be good policy, and I +should certainly contemplate waiting some time longer if it weren't +for the ponies. + +Everyone is wonderfully cheerful; there is laughter all day +long. Nelson finished his series of temperatures and samples to-day +with an observation at 1800 metres. + + + Series of Sea Temperatures + + Depth + Metres Temp. (uncorrected) + + Dec. 14 0 -1.67 + ,, 10 -1.84 + ,, 20 -1.86 + ,, 30 -1.89 + ,, 50 -1.92 + ,, 75 -1.93 + ,, 100 -1.80 + ,, 125 -1.11 + ,, 150 -0.63 + ,, 200 0.24 + ,, 500 1.18 + ,, 1500 0.935 + Dec. 17 1800 0.61 + ,, 2300 0.48 + Dec. 15 2800 0.28 + ,, 3220 0.11 + ,, 3650 -0.13 no sample + ,, 3891 bottom + Dec. 20 2300 (1260 fms.) 0.48° C. + ,, 3220 (1760 fms.) 0.11° C. + ,, 3300 bottom + + +A curious point is that the bottom layer is 2 tenths higher on the +20th, remaining in accord with the same depth on the 15th. + +_Sunday, December_ 18.--In the night it fell calm and the floes +opened out. There is more open water between the floes around us, +yet not a great deal more. + +In general what we have observed on the opening of the pack means a +very small increase in the open water spaces, but enough to convey +the impression that the floes, instead of wishing to rub shoulders +and grind against one another, desire to be apart. They touch lightly +where they touch at all--such a condition makes much difference to +the ship in attempts to force her through, as each floe is freer to +move on being struck. + +If a pack be taken as an area bounded by open water, it is evident +that a small increase of the periphery or a small outward movement +of the floes will add much to the open water spaces and create a +general freedom. + +The opening of this pack was reported at 3 A.M., and orders were given +to raise steam. The die is cast, and we must now make a determined +push for the open southern sea. + +There is a considerable swell from the N.W.; it should help us to +get along. + +_Evening_.--Again extraordinary differences of fortune. At first +things looked very bad--it took nearly half an hour to get started, +much more than an hour to work away to one of the large area floes to +which I have referred; then to my horror the ship refused to look at +it. Again by hard fighting we worked away to a crack running across +this sheet, and to get through this crack required many stoppages +and engine reversals. + +Then we had to shoot away south to avoid another unbroken floe of +large area, but after we had rounded this things became easier; from 6 +o'clock we were almost able to keep a steady course, only occasionally +hung up by some thicker floe. The rest of the ice was fairly recent +and easily broken. At 7 the leads of recent ice became easier still, +and at 8 we entered a long lane of open water. For a time we almost +thought we had come to the end of our troubles, and there was much +jubilation. But, alas! at the end of the lead we have come again to +heavy bay ice. It is undoubtedly this mixture of bay ice which causes +the open leads, and I cannot but think that this is the King Edward's +Land pack. We are making S.W. as best we can. + +What an exasperating game this is!--one cannot tell what is going +to happen in the next half or even quarter of an hour. At one moment +everything looks flourishing, the next one begins to doubt if it is +possible to get through. + +_New Fish_.--Just at the end of the open lead to-night we capsized +a small floe and thereby jerked a fish out on top of another one. We +stopped and picked it up, finding it a beautiful silver grey, genus +_Notothenia_--I think a new species. + +Snow squalls have been passing at intervals--the wind continues in +the N.W. It is comparatively warm. + +We saw the first full-grown Emperor penguin to-night. + +_Monday, December_ 19.--On the whole, in spite of many bumps, we made +good progress during the night, but the morning (present) outlook is +the worst we've had. We seem to be in the midst of a terribly heavy +screwed pack; it stretches in all directions as far as the eye can see, +and the prospects are alarming from all points of view. I have decided +to push west--anything to get out of these terribly heavy floes. Great +patience is the only panacea for our ill case. It is bad luck. + +We first got amongst the very thick floes at 1 A.M., and jammed +through some of the most monstrous I have ever seen. The pressure +ridges rose 24 feet above the surface--the ice must have extended +at least 30 feet below. The blows given us gave the impression of +irresistible solidity. Later in the night we passed out of this into +long lanes of water and some of thin brash ice, hence the progress +made. I'm afraid we have strained our rudder; it is stiff in one +direction. We are in difficult circumstances altogether. This morning +we have brilliant sunshine and no wind. + +Noon 67° 54.5' S., 178° 28' W. Made good S. 34 W. 37'; C. Crozier +606'. Fog has spread up from the south with a very light southerly +breeze. + +There has been another change of conditions, but I scarcely know +whether to call it for the better or the worse. There are fewer heavy +old floes; on the other hand, the one year's floes, tremendously +screwed and doubtless including old floes in their mass, have now +enormously increased in area. + +A floe which we have just passed must have been a mile across--this +argues lack of swell and from that one might judge the open water to be +very far. We made progress in a fairly good direction this morning, +but the outlook is bad again--the ice seems to be closing. Again +patience, we must go on steadily working through. + +5.30.--We passed two immense bergs in the afternoon watch, the first +of an irregular tabular form. The stratified surface had clearly +faulted. I suggest that an uneven bottom to such a berg giving unequal +buoyancy to parts causes this faulting. The second berg was domed, +having a twin peak. These bergs are still a puzzle. I rather cling +to my original idea that they become domed when stranded and isolated. + +These two bergs had left long tracks of open water in the pack. We came +through these making nearly 3 knots, but, alas! only in a direction +which carried us a little east of south. It was difficult to get from +one tract to another, but the tracts themselves were quite clear of +ice. I noticed with rather a sinking that the floes on either side +of us were assuming gigantic areas; one or two could not have been +less than 2 or 3 miles across. It seemed to point to very distant +open water. + +But an observation which gave greater satisfaction was a steady +reduction in the thickness of the floes. At first they were still much +pressed up and screwed. One saw lines and heaps of pressure dotted over +the surface of the larger floes, but it was evident from the upturned +slopes that the floes had been thin when these disturbances took place. + +At about 4.30 we came to a group of six or seven low tabular +bergs some 15 or 20 feet in height. It was such as these that we +saw in King Edward's Land, and they might very well come from that +region. Three of these were beautifully uniform, with flat tops and +straight perpendicular sides, and others had overhanging cornices, +and some sloped towards the edges. + +No more open water was reported on the other side of the bergs, +and one wondered what would come next. The conditions have proved a +pleasing surprise. There are still large floes on either side of us, +but they are not much hummocked; there are pools of water on their +surface, and the lanes between are filled with light brash and only an +occasional heavy floe. The difference is wonderful. The heavy floes and +gigantic pressure ice struck one most alarmingly--it seemed impossible +that the ship could win her way through them, and led one to imagine +all sorts of possibilities, such as remaining to be drifted north +and freed later in the season, and the contrast now that the ice all +around is little more than 2 or 3 feet thick is an immense relief. It +seems like release from a horrid captivity. Evans has twice suggested +stopping and waiting to-day, and on three occasions I have felt my +own decision trembling in the balance. If this condition holds I need +not say how glad we shall be that we doggedly pushed on in spite of +the apparently hopeless outlook. + +In any case, if it holds or not, it will be a great relief to feel +that there is this plain of negotiable ice behind one. + +Saw two sea leopards this evening, one in the water making short, +lazy dives under the floes. It had a beautiful sinuous movement. + +I have asked Pennell to prepare a map of the pack; it ought to give +some idea of the origin of the various forms of floes, and their +general drift. I am much inclined to think that most of the pressure +ridges are formed by the passage of bergs through the comparatively +young ice. I imagine that when the sea freezes very solid it carries +bergs with it, but obviously the enormous mass of a berg would need +a great deal of stopping. In support of this view I notice that +most of the pressure ridges are formed by pieces of a sheet which +did not exceed one or two feet in thickness--also it seems that the +screwed ice which we have passed has occurred mostly in the regions +of bergs. On one side of the tabular berg passed yesterday pressure +was heaped to a height of 15 feet--it was like a ship's bow wave on a +large scale. Yesterday there were many bergs and much pressure; last +night no bergs and practically no pressure; this morning few bergs +and comparatively little pressure. It goes to show that the unconfined +pack of these seas would not be likely to give a ship a severe squeeze. + +Saw a young Emperor this morning, and whilst trying to capture it +one of Wilson's new whales with the sabre dorsal fin rose close to +the ship. I estimated this fin to be 4 feet high. + +It is pretty to see the snow petrel and Antarctic petrel diving +on to the upturned and flooded floes. The wash of water sweeps the +Euphausia [3] across such submerged ice. The Antarctic petrel has a +pretty crouching attitude. + + + Notes On Nicknames + + Evans Teddy + Wilson Bill, Uncle Bill, Uncle + Simpson Sunny Jim + Ponting Ponco + Meares + Day + Campbell The Mate, Mr. Mate + Pennell Penelope + + Rennick Parnie + Bowers Birdie + Taylor Griff and Keir Hardy + Nelson Marie and Bronte + Gran + Cherry-Garrard Cherry + Wright Silas, Toronto + Priestley Raymond + Debenham Deb + Bruce + Drake Francis + Atkinson Jane, Helmin, Atchison + Oates Titus, Soldier, 'Farmer Hayseed' (by Bowers) + Levick Toffarino, the Old Sport + Lillie Lithley, Hercules, Lithi_6_ + + +_Tuesday, December_ 20.--Noon 68° 41' S., 179° 28' W. Made good S. 36 +W. 58; C. Crozier S. 20 W. 563'.--The good conditions held up to +midnight last night; we went from lead to lead with only occasional +small difficulties. At 9 o'clock we passed along the western edge of +a big stream of very heavy bay ice--such ice as would come out late +in the season from the inner reaches and bays of Victoria Sound, +where the snows drift deeply. For a moment one imagined a return to +our bad conditions, but we passed this heavy stuff in an hour and +came again to the former condition, making our way in leads between +floes of great area. + +Bowers reported a floe of 12 square miles in the middle watch. We +made very fair progress during the night, and an excellent run in the +morning watch. Before eight a moderate breeze sprang up from the west +and the ice began to close. We have worked our way a mile or two on +since, but with much difficulty, so that we have now decided to bank +fires and wait for the ice to open again; meanwhile we shall sound +and get a haul with tow nets. I'm afraid we are still a long way from +the open water; the floes are large, and where we have stopped they +seem to be such as must have been formed early last winter. The signs +of pressure have increased again. Bergs were very scarce last night, +but there are several around us to-day. One has a number of big humps +on top. It is curious to think how these big blocks became perched so +high. I imagine the berg must have been calved from a region of hard +pressure ridges. [Later] This is a mistake--on closer inspection it +is quite clear that the berg has tilted and that a great part of the +upper strata, probably 20 feet deep, has slipped off, leaving the +humps as islands on top. + +It looks as though we must exercise patience again; progress is more +difficult than in the worst of our experiences yesterday, but the +outlook is very much brighter. This morning there were many dark +shades of open water sky to the south; the westerly wind ruffling +the water makes these cloud shadows very dark. + +The barometer has been very steady for several days and we ought to +have fine weather: this morning a lot of low cloud came from the +S.W., at one time low enough to become fog--the clouds are rising +and dissipating, and we have almost a clear blue sky with sunshine. + +_Evening_.--The wind has gone from west to W.S.W. and still blows +nearly force 6. We are lying very comfortably alongside a floe with +open water to windward for 200 or 300 yards. The sky has been clear +most of the day, fragments of low stratus occasionally hurry across +the sky and a light cirrus is moving with some speed. Evidently it +is blowing hard in the upper current. The ice has closed--I trust it +will open well when the wind lets up. There is a lot of open water +behind us. The berg described this morning has been circling round +us, passing within 800 yards; the bearing and distance have altered +so un-uniformly that it is evident that the differential movement +between the surface water and the berg-driving layers (from 100 to +200 metres down) is very irregular. We had several hours on the floe +practising ski running, and thus got some welcome exercise. Coal is +now the great anxiety--we are making terrible inroads on our supply--we +have come 240 miles since we first entered the pack streams. + +The sounding to-day gave 1804 fathoms--the water bottle didn't work, +but temperatures were got at 1300 and bottom. + +The temperature was down to 20° last night and kept 2 or 3 degrees +below freezing all day. + +The surface for ski-ing to-day was very good. + +_Wednesday, December_ 21.--The wind was still strong this morning, +but had shifted to the south-west. With an overcast sky it was very +cold and raw. The sun is now peeping through, the wind lessening and +the weather conditions generally improving. During the night we had +been drifting towards two large bergs, and about breakfast time we +were becoming uncomfortably close to one of them--the big floes were +binding down on one another, but there seemed to be open water to +the S.E., if we could work out in that direction. + +(_Note_.--All directions of wind are given 'true' in this book.) + +_Noon Position_.--68° 25' S., 179° 11' W. Made good S. 26 E. 2.5'. Set +of current N., 32 E. 9.4'. Made good 24 hours--N. 40 E. 8'. We got the +steam up and about 9 A.M. commenced to push through. Once or twice +we have spent nearly twenty minutes pushing through bad places, but +it looks as though we are getting to easier water. It's distressing +to have the pack so tight, and the bergs make it impossible to lie +comfortably still for any length of time. + +Ponting has made some beautiful photographs and Wilson some charming +pictures of the pack and bergs; certainly our voyage will be well +illustrated. We find quite a lot of sketching talent. Day, Taylor, +Debenham, and Wright all contribute to the elaborate record of the +bergs and ice features met with. + +5 P.M.--The wind has settled to a moderate gale from S.W. We went +2 1/2 miles this morning, then became jammed again. The effort has +taken us well clear of the threatening bergs. Some others to leeward +now are a long way off, but they _are_ there and to leeward, robbing +our position of its full measure of security. Oh! but it's mighty +trying to be delayed and delayed like this, and coal going all the +time--also we are drifting N. and E.--the pack has carried us 9' +N. and 6' E. It really is very distressing. I don't like letting +fires go out with these bergs about. + +Wilson went over the floe to capture some penguins and lay flat on the +surface. We saw the birds run up to him, then turn within a few feet +and rush away again. He says that they came towards him when he was +singing, and ran away again when he stopped. They were all one year +birds, and seemed exceptionally shy; they appear to be attracted to +the ship by a fearful curiosity._7_ + +A chain of bergs must form a great obstruction to a field of pack ice, +largely preventing its drift and forming lanes of open water. Taken +in conjunction with the effect of bergs in forming pressure ridges, +it follows that bergs have a great influence on the movement as well +as the nature of pack. + +_Thursday, December_ 22.--Noon 68° 26' 2'' S., 197° 8' 5'' W. Sit. N. 5 +E. 8.5'.--No change. The wind still steady from the S.W., with a +clear sky and even barometer. It looks as though it might last any +time. This is sheer bad luck. We have let the fires die out; there +are bergs to leeward and we must take our chance of clearing them--we +cannot go on wasting coal. + +There is not a vestige of swell, and with the wind in this direction +there certainly ought to be if the open water was reasonably close. No, +it looks as though we'd struck a streak of real bad luck; that +fortune has determined to put every difficulty in our path. We have +less than 300 tons of coal left in a ship that simply eats coal. It's +alarming--and then there are the ponies going steadily down hill in +condition. The only encouragement is the persistence of open water to +the east and south-east to south; big lanes of open water can be seen +in that position, but we cannot get to them in this pressed up pack. + +Atkinson has discovered a new tapeworm in the intestines of the Adélie +penguin--a very tiny worm one-eighth of an inch in length with a +propeller-shaped head. + +A crumb of comfort comes on finding that we have not drifted to the +eastward appreciably. + +_Friday, December_ 23.--The wind fell light at about ten last night +and the ship swung round. Sail was set on the fore, and she pushed a +few hundred yards to the north, but soon became jammed again. This +brought us dead to windward of and close to a large berg with the +wind steadily increasing. Not a very pleasant position, but also +not one that caused much alarm. We set all sail, and with this help +the ship slowly carried the pack round, pivoting on the berg until, +as the pressure relieved, she slid out into the open water close +to the berg. Here it was possible to 'wear ship,' and we saw a fair +prospect of getting away to the east and afterwards south. Following +the leads up we made excellent progress during the morning watch, +and early in the forenoon turned south, and then south-west. + +We had made 8 1/2' S. 22 E. and about 5' S.S.W. by 1 P.M., and could +see a long lead of water to the south, cut off only by a broad strip +of floe with many water holes in it: a composite floe. There was just +a chance of getting through, but we have stuck half-way, advance and +retreat equally impossible under sail alone. Steam has been ordered +but will not be ready till near midnight. Shall we be out of the pack +by Christmas Eve? + +The floes to-day have been larger but thin and very sodden. There +are extensive water pools showing in patches on the surface, and one +notes some that run in line as though extending from cracks; also here +and there close water-free cracks can be seen. Such floes might well +be termed '_composite_' floes, since they evidently consist of old +floes which have been frozen together--the junction being concealed +by more recent snow falls. + +A month ago it would probably have been difficult to detect +inequalities or differences in the nature of the parts of the floes, +but now the younger ice has become waterlogged and is melting rapidly, +hence the pools. + +I am inclined to think that nearly all the large floes as well as +many of the smaller ones are 'composite,' and this would seem to show +that the cementing of two floes does not necessarily mean a line of +weakness, provided the difference in the thickness of the cemented +floes is not too great; of course, young ice or even a single season's +sea ice cannot become firmly attached to the thick old bay floes, +and hence one finds these isolated even at this season of the year. + +Very little can happen in the personal affairs of our company in this +comparatively dull time, but it is good to see the steady progress +that proceeds unconsciously in cementing the happy relationship that +exists between the members of the party. Never could there have been +a greater freedom from quarrels and trouble of all sorts. I have +not heard a harsh word or seen a black look. A spirit of tolerance +and good humour pervades the whole community, and it is glorious to +realise that men can live under conditions of hardship, monotony, +and danger in such bountiful good comradeship. + +Preparations are now being made for Christmas festivities. It is +curious to think that we have already passed the longest day in the +southern year. + +Saw a whale this morning--estimated 25 to 30 feet. Wilson thinks a +new species. Find Adélie penguins in batches of twenty or so. Do not +remember having seen so many together in the pack. + +_After midnight, December_ 23.--Steam was reported ready at 11 +P.M. After some pushing to and fro we wriggled out of our ice prison +and followed a lead to opener waters. + +We have come into a region where the open water exceeds the ice; the +former lies in great irregular pools 3 or 4 miles or more across and +connecting with many leads. The latter, and the fact is puzzling, still +contain floes of enormous dimensions; we have just passed one which +is at least 2 miles in diameter. In such a scattered sea we cannot +go direct, but often have to make longish detours; but on the whole +in calm water and with a favouring wind we make good progress. With +the sea even as open as we find it here it is astonishing to find the +floes so large, and clearly there cannot be a southerly swell. The +floes have water pools as described this afternoon, and none average +more than 2 feet in thickness. We have two or three bergs in sight. + +_Saturday, December 24, Christmas Eve_.--69° 1' S., 178° 29' W. S. 22 +E. 29'; C. Crozier 551'. Alas! alas! at 7 A.M. this morning we were +brought up with a solid sheet of pack extending in all directions, +save that from which we had come. I must honestly own that I turned +in at three thinking we had come to the end of our troubles; I had +a suspicion of anxiety when I thought of the size of the floes, but +I didn't for a moment suspect we should get into thick pack again +behind those great sheets of open water. + +All went well till four, when the white wall again appeared ahead--at +five all leads ended and we entered the pack; at seven we were close +up to an immense composite floe, about as big as any we've seen. She +wouldn't skirt the edge of this and she wouldn't go through it. There +was nothing to do but to stop and bank fires. How do we stand?--Any +day or hour the floes may open up, leaving a road to further open +water to the south, but there is no guarantee that one would not be +hung up again and again in this manner as long as these great floes +exist. In a fortnight's time the floes will have crumbled somewhat, +and in many places the ship will be able to penetrate them. + +What to do under these circumstances calls for the most difficult +decision. + +If one lets fires out it means a dead loss of over 2 tons, when the +boiler has to be heated again. But this 2 tons would only cover a day +under banked fires, so that for anything longer than twenty-four hours +it is economy to put the fires out. At each stoppage one is called upon +to decide whether it is to be for more or less than twenty-four hours. + +Last night we got some five or six hours of good going ahead--but it +has to be remembered that this costs 2 tons of coal in addition to +that expended in doing the distance. + +If one waits one probably drifts north--in all other respects +conditions ought to be improving, except that the southern edge of +the pack will be steadly augmenting. + + + Rough Summary of Current in Pack + + Dec. Current Wind + + 11-12 S. 48 E. 12'? N. by W. 3 to 5 + 13-14 N. 20 W. 2' N.W. by W. 0-2 + 14-15 N. 2 E. 5.2' S.W. 1-2 + 15-17 apparently little current variable light + 20-21 N. 32 E. 9.4 N.W. to W.S.W. 4 to 6 + 21-22 N. 5 E. 8.5 West 4 to 5 + + +The above seems to show that the drift is generally with the wind. We +have had a predominance of westerly winds in a region where a +predominance of easterly might be expected. + +Now that we have an easterly, what will be the result? + +_Sunday, December_ 25, _Christmas Day_.--Dead reckoning 69° 5' +S., 178° 30' E. The night before last I had bright hopes that this +Christmas Day would see us in open water. The scene is altogether +too Christmassy. Ice surrounds us, low nimbus clouds intermittently +discharging light snow flakes obscure the sky, here and there small +pools of open water throw shafts of black shadow on to the cloud--this +black predominates in the direction from whence we have come, elsewhere +the white haze of ice blink is pervading. + +We are captured. We do practically nothing under sail to push +through, and could do little under steam, and at each step forward +the possibility of advance seems to lessen. + +The wind which has persisted from the west for so long fell light +last night, and to-day comes from the N.E. by N., a steady breeze +from 2 to 3 in force. Since one must have hope, ours is pinned to +the possible effect of a continuance of easterly wind. Again the +call is for patience and again patience. Here at least we seem to +enjoy full security. The ice is so thin that it could not hurt by +pressure--there are no bergs within reasonable distance--indeed the +thinness of the ice is one of the most tantalising conditions. In +spite of the unpropitious prospect everyone on board is cheerful and +one foresees a merry dinner to-night. + +The mess is gaily decorated with our various banners. There was full +attendance at the Service this morning and a lusty singing of hymns. + +Should we now try to go east or west? + +I have been trying to go west because the majority of tracks lie that +side and no one has encountered such hard conditions as ours--otherwise +there is nothing to point to this direction, and all through the last +week the prospect to the west has seemed less promising than in other +directions; in spite of orders to steer to the S.W. when possible it +has been impossible to push in that direction. + +An event of Christmas was the production of a family by Crean's +rabbit. She gave birth to 17, it is said, and Crean has given away 22! + +I don't know what will become of the parent or family; at present +they are warm and snug enough, tucked away in the fodder under the +forecastle. + +_Midnight_.--To-night the air is thick with falling snow; the +temperature 28°. It is cold and slushy without. + +A merry evening has just concluded. We had an excellent dinner: tomato +soup, penguin breast stewed as an entrée, roast beef, plum-pudding, +and mince pies, asparagus, champagne, port and liqueurs--a festive +menu. Dinner began at 6 and ended at 7. For five hours the company +has been sitting round the table singing lustily; we haven't much +talent, but everyone has contributed more or less, 'and the choruses +are deafening. It is rather a surprising circumstance that such an +unmusical party should be so keen on singing. On Xmas night it was +kept up till 1 A.M., and no work is done without a chanty. I don't +know if you have ever heard sea chanties being sung. The merchant +sailors have quite a repertoire, and invariably call on it when +getting up anchor or hoisting sails. Often as not they are sung in +a flat and throaty style, but the effect when a number of men break +into the chorus is generally inspiriting.' + +The men had dinner at midday--much the same fare, but with beer +and some whisky to drink. They seem to have enjoyed themselves +much. Evidently the men's deck contains a very merry band. + +There are three groups of penguins roosting on the floes quite close +to the ship. I made the total number of birds 39. We could easily +capture these birds, and so it is evident that food can always be +obtained in the pack. + +To-night I noticed a skua gull settle on an upturned block of ice at +the edge of the floe on which several penguins were preparing for +rest. It is a fact that the latter held a noisy confabulation with +the skua as subject--then they advanced as a body towards it; within a +few paces the foremost penguin halted and turned, and then the others +pushed him on towards the skua. One after another they jibbed at being +first to approach their enemy, and it was only with much chattering +and mutual support that they gradually edged towards him. + +They couldn't reach him as he was perched on a block, but when they +got quite close the skua, who up to that time had appeared quite +unconcerned, flapped away a few yards and settled close on the other +side of the group of penguins. The latter turned and repeated their +former tactics until the skua finally flapped away altogether. It +really was extraordinarily interesting to watch the timorous protesting +movements of the penguins. The frame of mind producing every action +could be so easily imagined and put into human sentiments. + +On the other side of the ship part of another group of penguins +were quarrelling for the possession of a small pressure block which +offered only the most insecure foothold. The scrambling antics to +secure the point of vantage, the ousting of the bird in possession, +and the incontinent loss of balance and position as each bird reached +the summit of his ambition was almost as entertaining as the episode +of the skua. Truly these little creatures afford much amusement. + +_Monday, December 26_.--Obs. 69° 9' S., 178° 13' W. Made good 48 hours, +S. 35 E. 10'.--The position to-night is very cheerless. All hope +that this easterly wind will open the pack seems to have vanished. We +are surrounded with compacted floes of immense area. Openings appear +between these floes and we slide crab-like from one to another with +long delays between. It is difficult to keep hope alive. There are +streaks of water sky over open leads to the north, but everywhere to +the south we have the uniform white sky. The day has been overcast +and the wind force 3 to 5 from the E.N.E.--snow has fallen from time +to time. There could scarcely be a more dreary prospect for the eye +to rest upon. + +As I lay in my bunk last night I seemed to note a measured crush on +the brash ice, and to-day first it was reported that the floes had +become smaller, and then we seemed to note a sort of measured send +alongside the ship. There may be a long low swell, but it is not +helping us apparently; to-night the floes around are indisputably +as large as ever and I see little sign of their breaking or becoming +less tightly locked. + +It is a very, very trying time. + +We have managed to make 2 or 3 miles in a S.W. (?) direction under +sail by alternately throwing her aback, then filling sail and pressing +through the narrow leads; probably this will scarcely make up for our +drift. It's all very disheartening. The bright side is that everyone +is prepared to exert himself to the utmost--however poor the result +of our labours may show. + +Rennick got a sounding again to-day, 1843 fathoms. + +One is much struck by our inability to find a cause for the periodic +opening and closing of the floes. One wonders whether there is a reason +to be found in tidal movement. In general, however, it seems to show +that our conditions are governed by remote causes. Somewhere well +north or south of us the wind may be blowing in some other direction, +tending to press up or release pressure; then again such sheets of open +water as those through which we passed to the north afford space into +which bodies of pack can be pushed. The exasperating uncertainty of +one's mind in such captivity is due to ignorance of its cause and +inability to predict the effect of changes of wind. One can only +vaguely comprehend that things are happening far beyond our horizon +which directly affect our situation. + +_Tuesday, December_ 27.--Dead reckoning 69° 12' S., 178° 18' W. We +made nearly 2 miles in the first watch--half push, half drift. Then +the ship was again held up. In the middle the ice was close around, +even pressing on us, and we didn't move a yard. The wind steadily +increased and has been blowing a moderate gale, shifting in direction +to E.S.E. We are reduced to lower topsails. + +In the morning watch we began to move again, the ice opening out with +the usual astonishing absence of reason. We have made a mile or two in +a westerly direction in the same manner as yesterday. The floes seem +a little smaller, but our outlook is very limited; there is a thick +haze, and the only fact that can be known is that there are pools of +water at intervals for a mile or two in the direction in which we go. + +We commence to move between two floes, make 200 or 300 yards, and +are then brought up bows on to a large lump. This may mean a wait +of anything from ten minutes to half an hour, whilst the ship swings +round, falls away, and drifts to leeward. When clear she forges ahead +again and the operation is repeated. Occasionally when she can get +a little way on she cracks the obstacle and slowly passes through +it. There is a distinct swell--very long, very low. I counted the +period as about nine seconds. Everyone says the ice is breaking up. I +have not seen any distinct evidence myself, but Wilson saw a large +floe which had recently cracked into four pieces in such a position +that the ship could not have caused it. The breaking up of the big +floes is certainly a hopeful sign. + +'I have written quite a lot about the pack ice when under ordinary +conditions I should have passed it with few words. But you will +scarcely be surprised when I tell you what an obstacle we have found +it on this occasion.' + +I was thinking during the gale last night that our position might +be a great deal worse than it is. We were lying amongst the floes +perfectly peacefully whilst the wind howled through the rigging. One +felt quite free from anxiety as to the ship, the sails, the bergs +or ice pressures. One calmly went below and slept in the greatest +comfort. One thought of the ponies, but after all, horses have been +carried for all time in small ships, and often enough for very long +voyages. The Eastern Party [4] will certainly benefit by any delay +we may make; for them the later they get to King Edward's Land the +better. The depot journey of the Western Party will be curtailed, +but even so if we can get landed in January there should be time for +a good deal of work. One must confess that things might be a great +deal worse and there would be little to disturb one if one's release +was certain, say in a week's time. + +I'm afraid the ice-house is not going on so well as it might. There is +some mould on the mutton and the beef is tainted. There is a distinct +smell. The house has been opened by order when the temperature has +fallen below 28°. I thought the effect would be to 'harden up' the +meat, but apparently we need air circulation. When the temperature +goes down to-night we shall probably take the beef out of the house +and put a wind sail in to clear the atmosphere. If this does not +improve matters we must hang more carcasses in the rigging. + +_Later_, 6 P.M.--The wind has backed from S.E. to E.S.E. and the +swell is going down--this seems to argue open water in the first but +not in the second direction and that the course we pursue is a good +one on the whole. + +The sky is clearing but the wind still gusty, force 4 to 7; the ice +has frozen a little and we've made no progress since noon. + +9 P.M.--One of the ponies went down to-night. He has been down +before. It may mean nothing; on the other hand it is not a circumstance +of good omen. + +Otherwise there is nothing further to record, and I close this volume +of my Journal under circumstances which cannot be considered cheerful. + + +A FRESH MS. BOOK. 1910-11. + +[_On the Flyleaf_] + + + 'And in regions far + Such heroes bring ye forth + As those from whom we came + And plant our name + Under that star + Not known unto our North.' + + 'To the Virginian Voyage.' + + DRAYTON. + +'But be the workemen what they may be, let us speake of the worke; +that is, the true greatnesse of Kingdom and estates; and the meanes +thereof.' + +BACON. + + +Still in the Ice + +_Wednesday, December 28, 1910_.--Obs. Noon, 69° 17' S., 179° 42' +W. Made good since 26th S. 74 W. 31'; C. Crozier S. 22 W. 530'. The +gale has abated. The sky began to clear in the middle watch; +now we have bright, cheerful, warm sunshine (temp. 28°). The wind +lulled in the middle watch and has fallen to force 2 to 3. We made +1 1/2 miles in the middle and have added nearly a mile since. This +movement has brought us amongst floes of decidedly smaller area and +the pack has loosened considerably. A visit to the crow's nest shows +great improvement in the conditions. There is ice on all sides, but a +large percentage of the floes is quite thin and even the heavier ice +appears breakable. It is only possible to be certain of conditions +for three miles or so--the limit of observation from the crow's nest; +but as far as this limit there is no doubt the ship could work through +with ease. Beyond there are vague signs of open water in the southern +sky. We have pushed and drifted south and west during the gale and +are now near the 180th meridian again. It seems impossible that we +can be far from the southern limit of the pack. + +On strength of these observations we have decided to raise steam. I +trust this effort will carry us through. + +The pony which fell last night has now been brought out into the +open. The poor beast is in a miserable condition, very thin, very weak +on the hind legs, and suffering from a most irritating skin affection +which is causing its hair to fall out in great quantities. I think +a day or so in the open will help matters; one or two of the other +ponies under the forecastle are also in poor condition, but none +so bad as this one. Oates is unremitting in his attention and care +of the animals, but I don't think he quite realises that whilst in +the pack the ship must remain steady and that, therefore, a certain +limited scope for movement and exercise is afforded by the open deck +on which the sick animal now stands. + +If we can get through the ice in the coming effort we may get all the +ponies through safely, but there would be no great cause for surprise +if we lost two or three more. + +These animals are now the great consideration, balanced as they are +against the coal expenditure. + +This morning a number of penguins were diving for food around and +under the ship. It is the first time they have come so close to the +ship in the pack, and there can be little doubt that the absence of +motion of the propeller has made them bold. + +The Adélie penguin on land or ice is almost wholly ludicrous. Whether +sleeping, quarrelling, or playing, whether curious, frightened, or +angry, its interest is continuously humorous, but the Adélie penguin +in the water is another thing; as it darts to and fro a fathom or two +below the surface, as it leaps porpoise-like into the air or swims +skimmingly over the rippling surface of a pool, it excites nothing +but admiration. Its speed probably appears greater than it is, but +the ability to twist and turn and the general control of movement is +both beautiful and wonderful. + +As one looks across the barren stretches of the pack, it is sometimes +difficult to realise what teeming life exists immediately beneath +its surface. + +A tow-net is filled with diatoms in a very short space of time, +showing that the floating plant life is many times richer than that +of temperate or tropic seas. These diatoms mostly consist of three +or four well-known species. Feeding on these diatoms are countless +thousands of small shrimps (_Euphausia_); they can be seen swimming at +the edge of every floe and washing about on the overturned pieces. In +turn they afford food for creatures great and small: the crab-eater +or white seal, the penguins, the Antarctic and snowy petrel, and an +unknown number of fish. + +These fish must be plentiful, as shown by our capture of one on an +overturned floe and the report of several seen two days ago by some men +leaning over the counter of the ship. These all exclaimed together, +and on inquiry all agreed that they had seen half a dozen or more a +foot or so in length swimming away under a floe. Seals and penguins +capture these fish, as also, doubtless, the skuas and the petrels. + +Coming to the larger mammals, one occasionally sees the long lithe +sea leopard, formidably armed with ferocious teeth and doubtless +containing a penguin or two and perhaps a young crab-eating seal. The +killer whale (_Orca gladiator_), unappeasably voracious, devouring +or attempting to devour every smaller animal, is less common in the +pack but numerous on the coasts. Finally, we have the great browsing +whales of various species, from the vast blue whale (_Balænoptera +Sibbaldi_), the largest mammal of all time, to the smaller and less +common bottle-nose and such species as have not yet been named. Great +numbers of these huge animals are seen, and one realises what a demand +they must make on their food supply and therefore how immense a supply +of small sea beasts these seas must contain. Beneath the placid ice +floes and under the calm water pools the old universal warfare is +raging incessantly in the struggle for existence. + +Both morning and afternoon we have had brilliant sunshine, and +this afternoon all the after-guard lay about on the deck sunning +themselves. A happy, care-free group. + +10 P.M.--We made our start at eight, and so far things look well. We +have found the ice comparatively thin, the floes 2 to 3 feet in +thickness except where hummocked; amongst them are large sheets from +6 inches to 1 foot in thickness as well as fairly numerous water +pools. The ship has pushed on well, covering at least 3 miles an hour, +though occasionally almost stopped by a group of hummocked floes. The +sky is overcast: stratus clouds come over from the N.N.E. with wind in +the same direction soon after we started. This may be an advantage, +as the sails give great assistance and the officer of the watch has +an easier time when the sun is not shining directly in his eyes. As +I write the pack looks a little closer; I hope to heavens it is not +generally closing up again--no sign of open water to the south. Alas! + +12 P.M.--Saw two sea leopards playing in the wake. + +_Thursday, December_ 29.--No sights. At last the change for which +I have been so eagerly looking has arrived and we are steaming +amongst floes of small area evidently broken by swell, and with edges +abraded by contact. The transition was almost sudden. We made very +good progress during the night with one or two checks and one or two +slices of luck in the way of open water. In one pool we ran clear +for an hour, capturing 6 good miles. + +This morning we were running through large continuous sheets of ice +from 6 inches to 1 foot in thickness, with occasional water holes and +groups of heavier floes. This forenoon it is the same tale, except +that the sheets of thin ice are broken into comparatively regular +figures, none more than 30 yards across. It is the hopefullest sign +of the approach to the open sea that I have seen. + +The wind remains in the north helping us, the sky is overcast and +slight sleety drizzle is falling; the sun has made one or two attempts +to break through but without success. + +Last night we had a good example of the phenomenon called 'Glazed +Frost.' The ship everywhere, on every fibre of rope as well as on her +more solid parts, was covered with a thin sheet of ice caused by a +fall of light super-cooled rain. The effect was pretty and interesting. + +Our passage through the pack has been comparatively uninteresting +from the zoologist's point of view, as we have seen so little of +the rarer species of animals or of birds in exceptional plumage. We +passed dozens of crab-eaters, but have seen no Ross seals nor have we +been able to kill a sea leopard. To-day we see very few penguins. I'm +afraid there can be no observations to give us our position. + + +Release after Twenty Days in the Pack + +_Friday, December_ 30.--Obs. 72° 17' S. 177° 9' E. Made good in +48 hours, S. 19 W. 190'; C. Crozier S. 21 W. 334'. We are out of +the pack at length and at last; one breathes again and hopes that +it will be possible to carry out the main part of our programme, +but the coal will need tender nursing. + +Yesterday afternoon it became darkly overcast with falling snow. The +barometer fell on a very steep gradient and the wind increased to +force 6 from the E.N.E. In the evening the snow fell heavily and the +glass still galloped down. In any other part of the world one would +have felt certain of a coming gale. But here by experience we know +that the barometer gives little indication of wind. + +Throughout the afternoon and evening the water holes became more +frequent and we came along at a fine speed. At the end of the first +watch we were passing through occasional streams of ice; the wind had +shifted to north and the barometer had ceased to fall. In the middle +watch the snow held up, and soon after--1 A.M.--Bowers steered through +the last ice stream. + +At six this morning we were well in the open sea, the sky thick and +overcast with occasional patches of fog. We passed one small berg +on the starboard hand with a group of Antarctic petrels on one side +and a group of snow petrels on the other. It is evident that these +birds rely on sea and swell to cast their food up on ice ledges--only +a few find sustenance in the pack where, though food is plentiful, +it is not so easily come by. A flight of Antarctic petrel accompanied +the ship for some distance, wheeling to and fro about her rather than +following in the wake as do the more northerly sea birds. + +It is [good] to escape from the captivity of the pack and to feel that +a few days will see us at Cape Crozier, but it is sad to remember +the terrible inroad which the fight of the last fortnight has made +on our coal supply. + +2 P.M.--The wind failed in the forenoon. Sails were clewed up, and +at eleven we stopped to sound. The sounding showed 1111 fathoms--we +appear to be on the edge of the continental shelf. Nelson got some +samples and temperatures. + +The sun is bursting through the misty sky and warming the air. The +snowstorm had covered the ropes with an icy sheet--this is now peeling +off and falling with a clatter to the deck, from which the moist slush +is rapidly evaporating. In a few hours the ship will be dry--much to +our satisfaction; it is very wretched when, as last night, there is +slippery wet snow underfoot and on every object one touches. + +Our run has exceeded our reckoning by much. I feel confident that +our speed during the last two days had been greatly under-estimated +and so it has proved. We ought to be off C. Crozier on New Year's Day. + +8 P.M.--Our calm soon came to an end, the breeze at 3 P.M. coming +strong from the S.S.W., dead in our teeth--a regular southern +blizzard. We are creeping along a bare 2 knots. I begin to wonder +if fortune will ever turn her wheel. On every possible occasion she +seems to have decided against us. Of course, the ponies are feeling +the motion as we pitch in a short, sharp sea--it's damnable for them +and disgusting for us. + + +Summary of the Pack + +We may be said to have entered the pack at 4 P.M. on the 9th in +latitude 65 1/2 S. We left it at 1 A.M. on 30th in latitude 71 1/2 +S. We have taken twenty days and some odd hours to get through, and +covered in a direct line over 370 miles--an average of 18 miles a +day. We entered the pack with 342 tons of coal and left with 281 tons; +we have, therefore, expended 61 tons in forcing our way through--an +average of 6 miles to the ton. + +These are not pleasant figures to contemplate, but considering the +exceptional conditions experienced I suppose one must conclude that +things might have been worse. + + + 9th. Loose streams, steaming. + 10th. Close pack. + 11th. 6 A.M. close pack, stopped. + 12th. 11.30 A.M. started. + 13th. 8 A.M. heavy pack, stopped; 8 P.M. out fires. + 14th. Fires out. + 15th. ... + 16th. ... + 17th. ... + 18th. Noon, heavy pack and leads, steaming + 19th. Noon, heavy pack and leads, steaming. + 20th. Forenoon, banked fires. + 21st. 9 A.M. started. 11 A.M. banked. + 22nd. ,, ,, + 23rd. Midnight, started. + 24th. 7 A.M. stopped + 25th. Fires out. + 26th. ,, ,, + 27th. ,, ,, + 28th. 7.30 P.M. steaming. + 29th. Steaming. + 30th. Steaming. + + +These columns show that we were steaming for nine out of twenty +days. We had two long stops, one of _five_ days and one of _four and +a half_ days. On three other occasions we stopped for short intervals +without drawing fires. + +I have asked Wright to plot the pack with certain symbols on the chart +made by Pennell. It promises to give a very graphic representation +of our experiences. + +'We hold the record for reaching the northern edge of the pack, +whereas three or four times the open Ross Sea has been gained at an +earlier date. + +'I can imagine few things more trying to the patience than the long +wasted days of waiting. Exasperating as it is to see the tons of +coal melting away with the smallest mileage to our credit, one has +at least the satisfaction of active fighting and the hope of better +fortune. To wait idly is the worst of conditions. You can imagine how +often and how restlessly we climbed to the crow's nest and studied +the outlook. And strangely enough there was generally some change to +note. A water lead would mysteriously open up a few miles away or the +place where it had been would as mysteriously close. Huge icebergs +crept silently towards or past us, and continually we were observing +these formidable objects with range finder and compass to determine +the relative movement, sometimes with misgiving as to our ability +to clear them. Under steam the change of conditions was even more +marked. Sometimes we would enter a lead of open water and proceed for +a mile or two without hindrance; sometimes we would come to big sheets +of thin ice which broke easily as our iron-shod prow struck them, and +sometimes even a thin sheet would resist all our attempts to break it; +sometimes we would push big floes with comparative ease and sometimes +a small floe would bar our passage with such obstinacy that one would +almost believe it possessed of an evil spirit; sometimes we passed +through acres of sludgy sodden ice which hissed as it swept along +the side, and sometimes the hissing ceased seemingly without rhyme +or reason, and we found our screw churning the sea without any effect. + +'Thus the steaming days passed away in an ever changing environment +and are remembered as an unceasing struggle. + +'The ship behaved splendidly--no other ship, not even the _Discovery_, +would have come through so well. Certainly the _Nimrod_ would never +have reached the south water had she been caught in such pack. As +a result I have grown strangely attached to the _Terra Nova_. As +she bumped the floes with mighty shocks, crushing and grinding a way +through some, twisting and turning to avoid others, she seemed like a +living thing fighting a great fight. If only she had more economical +engines she would be suitable in all respects. + +'Once or twice we got among floes which stood 7 or 8 feet above water, +with hummocks and pinnacles as high as 25 feet. The ship could have +stood no chance had such floes pressed against her, and at first we +were a little alarmed in such situations. But familiarity breeds +contempt; there never was any pressure in the heavy ice, and I'm +inclined to think there never would be. + +'The weather changed frequently during our journey through the +pack. The wind blew strong from the west and from the east; the +sky was often darkly overcast; we had snowstorms, flaky snow, and +even light rain. In all such circumstances we were better placed in +the pack than outside of it. The foulest weather could do us little +harm. During quite a large percentage of days, however, we had bright +sunshine, which, even with the temperature well below freezing, +made everything look bright and cheerful. The sun also brought us +wonderful cloud effects, marvellously delicate tints of sky, cloud, +and ice, such effects as one might travel far to see. In spite of our +impatience we would not willingly have missed many of the beautiful +scenes which our sojourn in the pack afforded us. Ponting and Wilson +have been busy catching these effects, but no art can reproduce such +colours as the deep blue of the icebergs. + +'Scientifically we have been able to do something. We have managed to +get a line of soundings on our route showing the raising of the bottom +from the ocean depths to the shallow water on the continental shelf, +and the nature of the bottom. With these soundings we have obtained +many interesting observations of the temperature of different layers +of water in the sea. + +'Then we have added a great deal to the knowledge of life in the pack +from observation of the whales, seals, penguins, birds, and fishes as +well as of the pelagic beasts which are caught in tow-nets. Life in +one form or another is very plentiful in the pack, and the struggle +for existence here as elsewhere is a fascinating subject for study. + +'We have made a systematic study of the ice also, both the bergs and +sea ice, and have got a good deal of useful information concerning +it. Also Pennell has done a little magnetic work. + +'But of course this slight list of activity in the cause of science is +a very poor showing for the time of our numerous experts; many have +had to be idle in regard to their own specialities, though none are +idle otherwise. All the scientific people keep night watch when they +have no special work to do, and I have never seen a party of men so +anxious to be doing work or so cheerful in doing it. When there is +anything to be done, such as making or shortening sail, digging ice +from floes for the water supply, or heaving up the sounding line, it +goes without saying that all the afterguard turn out to do it. There +is no hesitation and no distinction. It will be the same when it +comes to landing stores or doing any other hard manual labour. + +'The spirit of the enterprise is as bright as ever. Every one strives +to help every one else, and not a word of complaint or anger has +been heard on board. The inner life of our small community is very +pleasant to think upon and very wonderful considering the extremely +small space in which we are confined. + +'The attitude of the men is equally worthy of admiration. In the +forecastle as in the wardroom there is a rush to be first when work is +to be done, and the same desire to sacrifice selfish consideration to +the success of the expedition. It is very good to be able to write in +such high praise of one's companions, and I feel that the possession +of such support ought to ensure success. Fortune would be in a hard +mood indeed if it allowed such a combination of knowledge, experience, +ability, and enthusiasm to achieve nothing.' + + + +CHAPTER III + +Land + +_Saturday, December_ 31. _New Year's Eve_.--Obs. 72° 54' S., 174° +55' E. Made good S. 45 W. 55'; C. Crozier S. 17 W. 286'.--'The +New Year's Eve found us in the Ross Sea, but not at the end of our +misfortunes.' We had a horrible night. In the first watch we kept away +2 points and set fore and aft sail. It did not increase our comfort +but gave us greater speed. The night dragged slowly through. I could +not sleep thinking of the sore strait for our wretched ponies. In +the morning watch the wind and sea increased and the outlook was +very distressing, but at six ice was sighted ahead. Under ordinary +conditions the safe course would have been to go about and stand to the +east. But in our case we must risk trouble to get smoother water for +the ponies. We passed a stream of ice over which the sea was breaking +heavily and one realised the danger of being amongst loose floes in +such a sea. But soon we came to a compacter body of floes, and running +behind this we were agreeably surprised to find comparatively smooth +water. We ran on for a bit, then stopped and lay to. Now we are lying +in a sort of ice bay--there is a mile or so of pack to windward, and +two horns which form the bay embracing us. The sea is damped down to +a gentle swell, although the wind is as strong as ever. As a result +we are lying very comfortably. The ice is drifting a little faster +than the ship so that we have occasionally to steam slowly to leeward. + +So far so good. From a dangerous position we have achieved one which +only directly involved a waste of coal. The question is, which will +last longest, the gale or our temporary shelter? + +Rennick has just obtained a sounding of 187 fathoms; taken in +conjunction with yesterday's 1111 fathoms and Ross's sounding of 180, +this is interesting, showing the rapid gradient of the continental +shelf. Nelson is going to put over the 8 feet Agassiz trawl. + +Unfortunately we could not clear the line for the trawl--it is +stowed under the fodder. A light dredge was tried on a small manilla +line--very little result. First the weights were insufficient to +carry it to the bottom; a second time, with more weight and line, it +seems to have touched for a very short time only; there was little of +value in the catch, but the biologists are learning the difficulties +of the situation. + +_Evening_.--Our protection grew less as the day advanced but saved +us much from the heavy swell. At 8 P.M. we started to steam west +to gain fresh protection, there being signs of pack to south and +west; the swell is again diminishing. The wind which started south +yesterday has gone to S.S.W. (true), the main swell in from S.E. by +S. or S.S.E. There seems to be another from south but none from the +direction from which the wind is now blowing. The wind has been getting +squally: now the squalls are lessening in force, the sky is clearing +and we seem to be approaching the end of the blow. I trust it may be +so and that the New Year will bring us better fortune than the old. + +If so, it will be some pleasure to write 1910 for the last time.--Land +oh! + +At 10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant +but splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in +sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous--the latter from +this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark as Sabine +itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it. I believe we +could have seen it at a distance of 30 or 40 miles farther--such is +the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere. + +Finis 1910 + +1911 + +_Sunday, January_ 1.--Obs. 73° 5' S. 174° 11' E. Made good S. 48 +W. 13.4; C. Crozier S. 15 W. 277'.--At 4 A.M. we proceeded, steaming +slowly to the S.E. The wind having gone to the S.W. and fallen to +force 3 as we cleared the ice, we headed into a short steep swell, +and for some hours the ship pitched most uncomfortably. + +At 8 A.M. the ship was clear of the ice and headed south with fore +and aft sail set. She is lying easier on this course, but there is +still a good deal of motion, and would be more if we attempted to +increase speed. + +Oates reports that the ponies are taking it pretty well. + +Soon after 8 A.M. the sky cleared, and we have had brilliant sunshine +throughout the day; the wind came from the N.W. this forenoon, but +has dropped during the afternoon. We increased to 55 revolutions at +10 A.M. The swell is subsiding but not so quickly as I had expected. + +To-night it is absolutely calm, with glorious bright sunshine. Several +people were sunning themselves at 11 o'clock! sitting on deck and +reading. + +The land is clear to-night. Coulman Island 75 miles west. + + + Sounding at 7 P.M., 187 fathoms. + Sounding at 4 A.M., 310 ,, + + +_Monday, January_ 2.--Obs. 75° 3', 173° 41'. Made good S. 3 +W. 119'; C. Crozier S. 22 W. 159'.--It has been a glorious night +followed by a glorious forenoon; the sun has been shining almost +continuously. Several of us drew a bucket of sea water and had a +bath with salt water soap on the deck. The water was cold, of course, +but it was quite pleasant to dry oneself in the sun. The deck bathing +habit has fallen off since we crossed the Antarctic circle, but Bowers +has kept going in all weathers. + +There is still a good deal of swell--difficult to understand after +a day's calm--and less than 200 miles of water to wind-ward. + +Wilson saw and sketched the new white stomached whale seen by us in +the pack. + +At 8.30 we sighted Mount Erebus, distant about 115 miles; the sky +is covered with light cumulus and an easterly wind has sprung up, +force 2 to 3. With all sail set we are making very good progress. + +_Tuesday, January_ 3, 10 A.M.--The conditions are very much the same +as last night. We are only 24 miles from C. Crozier and the land is +showing up well, though Erebus is veiled in stratus cloud. + +It looks finer to the south and we may run into sunshine soon, but +the wind is alarming and there is a slight swell which has little +effect on the ship, but makes all the difference to our landing. + +For the moment it doesn't look hopeful. We have been continuing our +line of soundings. From the bank we crossed in latitude 71° the water +has gradually got deeper, and we are now getting 310 to 350 fathoms +against 180 on the bank. + +The _Discovery_ soundings give depths up to 450 fathoms East of +Ross Island. + +6 P.M.--No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is +denied us. + +We came up to the Barrier five miles east of the Cape soon after +1 P.M. The swell from the E.N.E. continued to the end. The Barrier +was not more than 60 feet in height. From the crow's nest one could +see well over it, and noted that there was a gentle slope for at +least a mile towards the edge. The land of Black (or White?) Island +could be seen distinctly behind, topping the huge lines of pressure +ridges. We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it +to the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed +since _Discovery_ days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff in the +same place. + +The Barrier takes a sharp turn back at 2 or 3 miles from the cliffs, +runs back for half a mile, then west again with a fairly regular +surface until within a few hundred yards of the cliffs; the interval is +occupied with a single high pressure ridge--the evidences of pressure +at the edge being less marked than I had expected. + +Ponting was very busy with cinematograph and camera. In the angle +at the corner near the cliffs Rennick got a sounding of 140 fathoms +and Nelson some temperatures and samples. When lowering the water +bottle on one occasion the line suddenly became slack at 100 metres, +then after a moment's pause began to run out again. We are curious +to know the cause, and imagine the bottle struck a seal or whale. + +Meanwhile, one of the whale boats was lowered and Wilson, Griffith +Taylor, Priestley, Evans, and I were pulled towards the shore. The +after-guard are so keen that the proper boat's crew was displaced and +the oars manned by Oates, Atkinson, and Cherry-Garrard, the latter +catching several crabs. + +The swell made it impossible for us to land. I had hoped to see +whether there was room to pass between the pressure ridge and the +cliff, a route by which Royds once descended to the Emperor rookery; +as we approached the corner we saw that a large piece of sea floe ice +had been jammed between the Barrier and the cliff and had buckled +up till its under surface stood 3 or 4 ft. above the water. On top +of this old floe we saw an old Emperor moulting and a young one +shedding its down. (The down had come off the head and flippers +and commenced to come off the breast in a vertical line similar to +the ordinary moult.) This is an age and stage of development of the +Emperor chick of which we have no knowledge, and it would have been +a triumph to have secured the chick, but, alas! there was no way to +get at it. Another most curious sight was the feet and tails of two +chicks and the flipper of an adult bird projecting from the ice on +the under side of the jammed floe; they had evidently been frozen in +above and were being washed out under the floe. + +Finding it impossible to land owing to the swell, we pulled along +the cliffs for a short way. These Crozier cliffs are remarkably +interesting. The rock, mainly volcanic tuff, includes thick strata +of columnar basalt, and one could see beautiful designs of jammed +and twisted columns as well as caves with whole and half pillars +very much like a miniature Giant's Causeway. Bands of bright yellow +occurred in the rich brown of the cliffs, caused, the geologists +think, by the action of salts on the brown rock. In places the cliffs +overhung. In places, the sea had eaten long low caves deep under them, +and continued to break into them over a shelving beach. Icicles hung +pendant everywhere, and from one fringe a continuous trickle of thaw +water had swollen to a miniature waterfall. It was like a big hose +playing over the cliff edge. We noticed a very clear echo as we passed +close to a perpendicular rock face. Later we returned to the ship, +which had been trying to turn in the bay--she is not very satisfactory +in this respect owing to the difficulty of starting the engines either +ahead or astern--several minutes often elapse after the telegraph +has been put over before there is any movement of the engines. + +It makes the position rather alarming when one is feeling one's way +into some doubtful corner. When the whaler was hoisted we proceeded +round to the penguin rookery; hopes of finding a quiet landing had +now almost disappeared.8 + +There were several small grounded bergs close to the rookery; going +close to these we got repeated soundings varying from 34 down to 12 +fathoms. There is evidently a fairly extensive bank at the foot of the +rookery. There is probably good anchorage behind some of the bergs, +but none of these afford shelter for landing on the beach, on which the +sea is now breaking incessantly; it would have taken weeks to land the +ordinary stores and heaven only knows how we could have got the ponies +and motor sledges ashore. Reluctantly and sadly we have had to abandon +our cherished plan--it is a thousand pities. Every detail of the shore +promised well for a wintering party. Comfortable quarters for the hut, +ice for water, snow for the animals, good slopes for ski-ing, vast +tracks of rock for walks. Proximity to the Barrier and to the rookeries +of two types of penguins--easy ascent of Mount Terror--good ground for +biological work--good peaks for observation of all sorts--fairly easy +approach to the Southern Road, with no chance of being cut off--and +so forth. It is a thousand pities to have to abandon such a spot. + +On passing the rookery it seemed to me we had been wrong in assuming +that all the guano is blown away. I think there must be a pretty +good deposit in places. The penguins could be seen very clearly +from the ship. On the large rookery they occupy an immense acreage, +and one imagines have extended as far as shelter can be found. But +on the small rookery they are patchy and there seems ample room for +the further extension of the colonies. Such unused spaces would have +been ideal for a wintering station if only some easy way could have +been found to land stores. + +I noted many groups of penguins on the snow slopes over-looking the +sea far from the rookeries, and one finds it difficult to understand +why they meander away to such places. + +A number of killer whales rose close to the ship when we were opposite +the rookery. What an excellent time these animals must have with +thousands of penguins passing to and fro! + +We saw our old _Discovery_ post-office pole sticking up as erect as +when planted, and we have been comparing all we have seen with old +photographs. No change at all seems to have taken place anywhere, +and this is very surprising in the case of the Barrier edge. + +From the penguin rookeries to the west it is a relentless coast +with high ice cliffs and occasional bare patches of rock showing +through. Even if landing were possible, the grimmest crevassed snow +slopes lie behind to cut one off from the Barrier surface; there is +no hope of shelter till we reach Cape Royds. + +Meanwhile all hands are employed making a running survey. I give an +idea of the programme opposite. Terror cleared itself of cloud some +hours ago, and we have had some change in views of it. It is quite +certain that the ascent would be easy. The Bay on the north side of +Erebus is much deeper than shown on the chart. + +The sun has been obstinate all day, peeping out occasionally and then +shyly retiring; it makes a great difference to comfort. + + + _Programme_ + + Bruce continually checking speed with hand log. + + Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam. + Nelson noting results. + + Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter. + Cherry-Garrard noting results. + + Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam. + Atkinson noting results. + + Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder. + Wright noting results. + + Rennick sounding with Thomson machine. + Drake noting results. + + +Beaufort Island looks very black from the south. + +10.30.--We find pack off Cape Bird; we have passed through some +streams and there is some open water ahead, but I'm afraid we may +find the ice pretty thick in the Strait at this date. + +_Wednesday, January_ 4, 1 A.M.--We are around Cape Bird and in sight of +our destination, but it is doubtful if the open water extends so far. + +We have advanced by following an open water lead close along the +land. Cape Bird is a very rounded promontory with many headlands; +it is not easy to say which of these is the Cape. + +The same grim unattainable ice-clad coast line extends continuously +from the Cape Crozier Rookery to Cape Bird. West of C. Bird there is +a very extensive expanse of land, and on it one larger and several +small penguin rookeries. + +On the uniform dark reddish brown of the land can be seen numerous +grey spots; these are erratic boulders of granite. Through glasses +one could be seen perched on a peak at least 1300 feet above the sea. + +Another group of killer whales were idly diving off the penguin +rookery; an old one with a very high straight dorsal fin and several +youngsters. We watched a small party of penguins leaping through the +water towards their enemies. It seemed impossible that they should +have failed to see the sinister fins during their frequent jumps into +the air, yet they seemed to take no notice whatever--stranger still, +the penguins must have actually crossed the whales, yet there was no +commotion whatever, and presently the small birds could be seen leaping +away on the other side. One can only suppose the whales are satiated. + +As we rounded Cape Bird we came in sight of the old well-remembered +land marks--Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains--seen dimly +through a hazy atmosphere. It was good to see them again, and perhaps +after all we are better this side of the Island. It gives one a homely +feeling to see such a familiar scene. + +4 A.M.--The steep exposed hill sides on the west side of Cape Bird look +like high cliffs as one gets south of them and form a most conspicuous +land mark. We pushed past these cliffs into streams of heavy bay ice, +making fair progress; as we proceeded the lanes became scarcer, the +floes heavier, but the latter remain loose. 'Many of us spent the +night on deck as we pushed through the pack.' We have passed some +very large floes evidently frozen in the strait. This is curious, +as all previous evidence has pointed to the clearance of ice sheets +north of Cape Royds early in the spring. + +I have observed several floes with an entirely new type of +surface. They are covered with scales, each scale consisting of a +number of little flaky ice sheets superimposed, and all 'dipping' +at the same angle. It suggests to me a surface with sastrugi and +layers of fine dust on which the snow has taken hold. + +We are within 5 miles of Cape Royds and ought to get there. + +_Wednesday, January_ 4, P.M..--This work is full of surprises. + +At 6 A.M. we came through the last of the Strait pack some three +miles north of Cape Royds. We steered for the Cape, fully expecting +to find the edge of the pack ice ranging westward from it. To our +astonishment we ran on past the Cape with clear water or thin sludge +ice on all sides of us. Past Cape Royds, past Cape Barne, past the +glacier on its south side, and finally round and past Inaccessible +Island, a good 2 miles south of Cape Royds. 'The Cape itself was cut +off from the south.' We could have gone farther, but the last sludge +ice seemed to be increasing in thickness, and there was no wintering +spot to aim for but Cape Armitage. [5] 'I have never seen the ice of +the Sound in such a condition or the land so free from snow. Taking +these facts in conjunction with the exceptional warmth of the air, +I came to the conclusion that it had been an exceptionally warm +summer. At this point it was evident that we had a considerable choice +of wintering spots. We could have gone to either of the small islands, +to the mainland, the Glacier Tongue, or pretty well anywhere except Hut +Point. My main wish was to choose a place that would not be easily cut +off from the Barrier, and my eye fell on a cape which we used to call +the Skuary a little behind us. It was separated from old _Discovery_ +quarters by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue, +and I thought that these bays would remain frozen until late in the +season, and that when they froze over again the ice would soon become +firm.' I called a council and put these propositions. To push on to +the Glacier Tongue and winter there; to push west to the 'tombstone' +ice and to make our way to an inviting spot to the northward of the +cape we used to call 'the Skuary.' I favoured the latter course, +and on discussion we found it obviously the best, so we turned back +close around Inaccessible Island and steered for the fast ice off +the Cape at full speed. After piercing a small fringe of thin ice +at the edge of the fast floe the ship's stem struck heavily on hard +bay ice about a mile and a half from the shore. Here was a road +to the Cape and a solid wharf on which to land our stores. We made +fast with ice anchors. Wilson, Evans, and I went to the Cape, which +I had now rechristened Cape Evans in honour of our excellent second +in command. A glance at the land showed, as we expected, ideal spots +for our wintering station. The rock of the Cape consists mainly of +volcanic agglomerate with olivine kenyte; it is much weathered and +the destruction had formed quantities of coarse sand. We chose a spot +for the hut on a beach facing N.W. and well protected by numerous +small hills behind. This spot seems to have all the local advantages +(which I must detail later) for a winter station, and we realised that +at length our luck had turned. The most favourable circumstance of +all is the stronge chance of communication with Cape Armitage being +established at an early date. + +It was in connection with this fact that I had had such a strong +desire to go to Mount Terror, and such misgivings if we had been +forced to go to Cape Royds. It is quite evident that the ice south of +Cape Royds does not become secure till late in the season, probably +in May. Before that, all evidence seems to show that the part between +Cape Royds and Cape Barne is continually going out. How, I ask myself, +was our depot party to get back to home quarters? I feel confident we +can get to the new spot we have chosen at a comparatively early date; +it will probably only be necessary to cross the sea ice in the deep +bays north and south of the Glacier Tongue, and the ice rarely goes +out of there after it has first formed. Even if it should, both stages +can be seen before the party ventures upon them. + +After many frowns fortune has treated us to the kindest smile--for +twenty-four hours we have had a calm with brilliant sunshine. Such +weather in such a place comes nearer to satisfying my ideal of +perfection than any condition that I have ever experienced. The warm +glow of the sun with the keen invigorating cold of the air forms a +combination which is inexpressibly health-giving and satisfying to me, +whilst the golden light on this wonderful scene of mountain and ice +satisfies every claim of scenic magnificence. No words of mine can +convey the impressiveness of the wonderful panorama displayed to our +eyes. Ponting is enraptured and uses expressions which in anyone else +and alluding to any other subject might be deemed extravagant. + + + +The Landing: A Week's Work + +Whilst we were on shore Campbell was taking the first steps towards +landing our stores. Two of the motor sledges were soon hoisted +out, and Day with others was quickly unpacking them. Our luck stood +again. In spite of all the bad weather and the tons of sea water which +had washed over them the sledges and all the accessories appeared as +fresh and clean as if they had been packed on the previous day--much +credit is due to the officers who protected them with tarpaulins and +lashings. After the sledges came the turn of the ponies--there was a +good deal of difficulty in getting some of them into the horse box, +but Oates rose to the occasion and got most in by persuasion, whilst +others were simply lifted in by the sailors. Though all are thin and +some few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised at the evident +vitality which they still possessed--some were even skittish. I cannot +express the relief when the whole seventeen were safely picketed on the +floe. From the moment of getting on the snow they seemed to take a new +lease of life, and I haven't a doubt they will pick up very rapidly. It +really is a triumph to have got them through safely and as well as +they are. Poor brutes, how they must have enjoyed their first roll, +and how glad they must be to have freedom to scratch themselves! It is +evident all have suffered from skin irritation--one can imagine the +horror of suffering from such an ill for weeks without being able to +get at the part that itched. I note that now they are picketed together +they administer kindly offices to each other; one sees them gnawing +away at each other's flanks in most amicable and obliging manner. + +Meares and the dogs were out early, and have been running to and fro +most of the day with light loads. The great trouble with them has +been due to the fatuous conduct of the penguins. Groups of these have +been constantly leaping on to our floe. From the moment of landing +on their feet their whole attitude expressed devouring curiosity and +a pig-headed disregard for their own safety. They waddle forward, +poking their heads to and fro in their usually absurd way, in spite of +a string of howling dogs straining to get at them. 'Hulloa,' they seem +to say, 'here's a game--what do all you ridiculous things want?' And +they come a few steps nearer. The dogs make a rush as far as their +leashes or harness allow. The penguins are not daunted in the least, +but their ruffs go up and they squawk with semblance of anger, for all +the world as though they were rebuking a rude stranger--their attitude +might be imagined to convey 'Oh, that's the sort of animal you are; +well, you've come to the wrong place--we aren't going to be bluffed +and bounced by you,' and then the final fatal steps forward are taken +and they come within reach. There is a spring, a squawk, a horrid red +patch on the snow, and the incident is closed. Nothing can stop these +silly birds. Members of our party rush to head them off, only to be +met with evasions--the penguins squawk and duck as much as to say, +'What's it got to do with you, you silly ass? Let us alone.' + +With the first spilling of blood the skua gulls assemble, and soon, +for them at least, there is a gruesome satisfaction to be reaped. Oddly +enough, they don't seem to excite the dogs; they simply alight within +a few feet and wait for their turn in the drama, clamouring and +quarrelling amongst themselves when the spoils accrue. Such incidents +were happening constantly to-day, and seriously demoralising the dog +teams. Meares was exasperated again and again. + +The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing one and +Nelson the other. In spite of a few minor breakdowns they hauled good +loads to the shore. It is early to call them a success, but they are +certainly extremely promising. + +The next thing to be got out of the ship was the hut, and the large +quantity of timber comprising it was got out this afternoon. + +And so to-night, with the sun still shining, we look on a very +different prospect from that of 48 or even 24 hours ago. + +I have just come back from the shore. + +The site for the hut is levelled and the erecting party is living +on shore in our large green tent with a supply of food for eight +days. Nearly all the timber, &c., of the hut is on shore, the +remainder half-way there. The ponies are picketed in a line on a +convenient snow slope so that they cannot eat sand. Oates and Anton +are sleeping ashore to watch over them. The dogs are tied to a long +length of chain stretched on the sand; they are coiled up after a +long day, looking fitter already. Meares and Demetri are sleeping +in the green tent to look after them. A supply of food for ponies +and dogs as well as for the men has been landed. Two motor sledges +in good working order are safely on the beach. + +A fine record for our first day's work. All hands start again at 6 +A.M. to-morrow. + +It's splendid to see at last the effect of all the months of +preparation and organisation. There is much snoring about me as I +write (2 P.M.) from men tired after a hard day's work and preparing +for such another to-morrow. I also must sleep, for I have had none +for 48 hours--but it should be to dream happily. + +_Thursday, January_ 5.--All hands were up at 5 this morning and at +work at 6. Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone +works and gradually the work gets organised. I was a little late on +the scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary +scene. Some 6 or 7 killer whales, old and young, were skirting the fast +floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived rapidly, +almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly appeared astern, +raising their snouts out of water. I had heard weird stories of these +beasts, but had never associated serious danger with them. Close to +the water's edge lay the wire stern rope of the ship, and our two +Esquimaux dogs were tethered to this. I did not think of connecting +the movements of the whales with this fact, and seeing them so close +I shouted to Ponting, who was standing abreast of the ship. He seized +his camera and ran towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the +beasts, which had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole +floe under him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments. One +could hear the 'booming' noise as the whales rose under the ice and +struck it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under the ice, +setting it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his feet and was +able to fly to security. By an extraordinary chance also, the splits +had been made around and between the dogs, so that neither of them +fell into the water. Then it was clear that the whales shared our +astonishment, for one after another their huge hideous heads shot +vertically into the air through the cracks which they had made. As +they reared them to a height of 6 or 8 feet it was possible to see +their tawny head markings, their small glistening eyes, and their +terrible array of teeth--by far the largest and most terrifying in +the world. There cannot be a doubt that they looked up to see what +had happened to Ponting and the dogs. + +The latter were horribly frightened and strained to their chains, +whining; the head of one killer must certainly have been within 5 +feet of one of the dogs. + +After this, whether they thought the game insignificant, or whether +they missed Ponting is uncertain, but the terrifying creatures passed +on to other hunting grounds, and we were able to rescue the dogs, +and what was even more important, our petrol--5 or 6 tons of which was +waiting on a piece of ice which was not split away from the main mass. + +Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually skirt +the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap up anyone +who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but the facts +that they could display such deliberate cunning, that they were able +to break ice of such thickness (at least 2 1/2 feet), and that they +could act in unison, were a revelation to us. It is clear that they +are endowed with singular intelligence, and in future we shall treat +that intelligence with every respect. + + +Notes on the Killer or Grampus (_Orca gladiator_) + +One killed at Greenwich, 31 feet. + +Teeth about 2 1/2 inches above jaw; about 3 1/2 inches total length. + +_'British Quadrupeds'--Bell:_ + +'The fierceness and voracity of the killer, in which it surpasses +all other known cetaceans.' + +In stomach of a 21 ft. specimen were found remains of 13 porpoises +and 14 seals. + +A herd of white whales has been seen driven into a bay and literally +torn to pieces. + +Teeth, large, conical, and slightly recurred, 11 or 12 on each side +of either jaw. + +_'Mammals'--Flower and Lydekker:_ + +'Distinguished from all their allies by great strength and ferocity.' + +'Combine in packs to hunt down and destroy . . . full sized whales.' + +'_Marine Mammalia'--Scammon_: + +Adult males average 20 feet; females 15 feet. + +Strong sharp conical teeth which interlock. Combines great strength +with agility. + +Spout 'low and bushy.' + +Habits exhibit a boldness and cunning peculiar to their carnivorous +propensities. + +Three or four do not hesitate to grapple the largest baleen whales, who +become paralysed with terror--frequently evince no efforts to escape. + +Instances have occurred where a band of orcas laid siege to whales +in tow, and although frequently lanced and cut with boat spades, +made away with their prey. + +Inclined to believe it rarely attacks larger cetaceans. + +Possessed of great swiftness. + +Sometimes seen peering above the surface with a seal in their bristling +jaws, shaking and crushing their victims and swallowing them apparently +with gusto. + +Tear white whales into pieces. + + +Ponting has been ravished yesterday by a view of the ship seen from a +big cave in an iceberg, and wished to get pictures of it. He succeeded +in getting some splendid plates. This fore-noon I went to the iceberg +with him and agreed that I had rarely seen anything more beautiful +than this cave. It was really a sort of crevasse in a tilted berg +parallel to the original surface; the strata on either side had bent +outwards; through the back the sky could be seen through a screen +of beautiful icicles--it looked a royal purple, whether by contrast +with the blue of the cavern or whether from optical illusion I do +not know. Through the larger entrance could be seen, also partly +through icicles, the ship, the Western Mountains, and a lilac sky; +a wonderfully beautiful picture. + +Ponting is simply entranced with this view of Mt. Erebus, and with +the two bergs in the foreground and some volunteers he works up +foregrounds to complete his picture of it. + +I go to bed very satisfied with the day's work, but hoping for better +results with the improved organisation and familiarity with the work. + +To-day we landed the remainder of the woodwork of the hut, all the +petrol, paraffin and oil of all descriptions, and a quantity of +oats for the ponies besides odds and ends. The ponies are to begin +work to-morrow; they did nothing to-day, but the motor sledges did +well--they are steadying down to their work and made nothing but +non-stop runs to-day. One begins to believe they will be reliable, +but I am still fearing that they will not take such heavy loads as +we hoped. + +Day is very pleased and thinks he's going to do wonders, and Nelson +shares his optimism. The dogs find the day work terribly heavy and +Meares is going to put them on to night work. + +The framework of the hut is nearly up; the hands worked till 1 +A.M. this morning and were at it again at 7 A.M.--an instance of the +spirit which actuates everyone. The men teams formed of the after-guard +brought in good loads, but they are not yet in condition. The hut is +about 11 or 12 feet above the water as far as I can judge. I don't +think spray can get so high in such a sheltered spot even if we get +a northerly gale when the sea is open. + +In all other respects the situation is admirable. This work makes +one very tired for Diary-writing. + +_Friday, January_ 6.--We got to work at 6 again this morning. Wilson, +Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, and I took each a pony, returned to the ship, +and brought a load ashore; we then changed ponies and repeated the +process. We each took three ponies in the morning, and I took one in +the afternoon. + +Bruce, after relief by Rennick, took one in the morning and one in the +afternoon--of the remaining five Oates deemed two unfit for work and +three requiring some breaking in before getting to serious business. + +I was astonished at the strength of the beasts I handled; three out +of the four pulled hard the whole time and gave me much exercise. I +brought back loads of 700 lbs. and on one occasion over 1000 lbs. + +With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties we have done an +excellent day of transporting--another such day should practically +finish all the stores and leave only fuel and fodder (60 tons) to +complete our landing. So far it has been remarkably expeditious. + +The motor sledges are working well, but not very well; the small +difficulties will be got over, but I rather fear they will never draw +the loads we expect of them. Still they promise to be a help, and +they are lively and attractive features of our present scene as they +drone along over the floe. At a little distance, without silencers, +they sound exactly like threshing machines. + +The dogs are getting better, but they only take very light loads +still and get back from each journey pretty dead beat. In their +present state they don't inspire confidence, but the hot weather is +much against them. + +The men parties have done splendidly. Campbell and his Eastern Party +made eight journeys in the day, a distance over 24 miles. Everyone +declares that the ski sticks greatly help pulling; it is surprising +that we never thought of using them before. + +Atkinson is very bad with snow blindness to-night; also Bruce. Others +have a touch of the same disease. It's well for people to get +experience of the necessity of safeguarding their eyes. + +The only thing which troubles me at present is the wear on our +sledges owing to the hard ice. No great harm has been done so far, +thanks to the excellent wood of which the runners are made, but +we can't afford to have them worn. Wilson carried out a suggestion +of his own to-night by covering the runners of a 9-ft. sledge with +strips from the skin of a seal which he killed and flensed for the +purpose. I shouldn't wonder if this acted well, and if it does we +will cover more sledges in a similar manner. We shall also try Day's +new under-runners to-morrow. After 48 hours of brilliant sunshine we +have a haze over the sky. + +List of sledges: + + + 12 ft. 11 in use + 14 spare + 10 ft. 10 not now used + 9 ft. 10 in use + + +To-day I walked over our peninsula to see what the southern side was +like. Hundreds of skuas were nesting and attacked in the usual manner +as I passed. They fly round shrieking wildly until they have gained +some altitude. They then swoop down with great impetus directly +at one's head, lifting again when within a foot of it. The bolder +ones actually beat on one's head with their wings as they pass. At +first it is alarming, but experience shows that they never strike +except with their wings. A skua is nesting on a rock between the +ponies and the dogs. People pass every few minutes within a pace +or two, yet the old bird has not deserted its chick. In fact, it +seems gradually to be getting confidence, for it no longer attempts +to swoop at the intruder. To-day Ponting went within a few feet, +and by dint of patience managed to get some wonderful cinematograph +pictures of its movements in feeding and tending its chick, as well +as some photographs of these events at critical times. + +The main channel for thaw water at Cape Evans is now quite a rushing +stream. + +Evans, Pennell, and Rennick have got sight for meridian distance; +we ought to get a good longitude fix. + +_Saturday, January_ 7.--The sun has returned. To-day it seemed better +than ever and the glare was blinding. There are quite a number of +cases of snow blindness. + +We have done splendidly. To-night all the provisions except some in +bottles are ashore and nearly all the working paraphernalia of the +scientific people--no light item. There remains some hut furniture, +2 1/2 tons of carbide, some bottled stuff, and some odds and ends +which should occupy only part of to-morrow; then we come to the two +last and heaviest items--coal and horse fodder. + +If we are not through in the week we shall be very near it. Meanwhile +the ship is able to lay at the ice edge without steam; a splendid +saving. + +There has been a steady stream of cases passing along the shore route +all day and transport arrangements are hourly improving. + +Two parties of four and three officers made ten journeys each, +covering over 25 miles and dragging loads one way which averaged 250 +to 300 lbs. per man. + +The ponies are working well now, but beginning to give some +excitement. On the whole they are fairly quiet beasts, but they +get restive with their loads, mainly but indirectly owing to the +smoothness of the ice. They know perfectly well that the swingle trees +and traces are hanging about their hocks and hate it. (I imagine it +gives them the nervous feeling that they are going to be carried off +their feet.) This makes it hard to start them, and when going they +seem to appreciate the fact that the sledges will overrun them should +they hesitate or stop. The result is that they are constantly fretful +and the more nervous ones tend to become refractory and unmanageable. + +Oates is splendid with them--I do not know what we should do without +him. + +I did seven journeys with ponies and got off with a bump on the head +and some scratches. + +One pony got away from Debenham close to the ship, and galloped the +whole way in with its load behind; the load capsized just off the +shore and the animal and sledge dashed into the station. Oates very +wisely took this pony straight back for another load. + +Two or three ponies got away as they were being harnessed, and careered +up the hill again. In fact there were quite a lot of minor incidents +which seemed to endanger life and limb to the animals if not the men, +but which all ended safely. + +One of Meares' dog teams ran away--one poor dog got turned over at +the start and couldn't get up again (Muk/aka). He was dragged at a +gallop for nearly half a mile; I gave him up as dead, but apparently +he was very little hurt. + +The ponies are certainly going to keep things lively as time goes on +and they get fresher. Even as it is, their condition can't be half +as bad as we imagined; the runaway pony wasn't much done even after +the extra trip. + +The station is beginning to assume the appearance of an orderly +camp. We continue to find advantages in the situation; the long level +beach has enabled Bowers to arrange his stores in the most systematic +manner. Everything will be handy and there will never be a doubt as +to the position of a case when it is wanted. The hut is advancing +apace--already the matchboarding is being put on. The framework is +being clothed. It should be extraordinarily warm and comfortable, +for in addition to this double coating of insulation, dry seaweed in +quilted sacking, I propose to stack the pony fodder all around it. + +I am wondering how we shall stable the ponies in the winter. + +The only drawback to the present position is that the ice is getting +thin and sludgy in the cracks and on some of the floes. The ponies drop +their feet through, but most of them have evidently been accustomed +to something of the sort; they make no fuss about it. Everything +points to the desirability of the haste which we are making--so we +go on to-morrow, Sunday. + +A whole host of minor ills besides snow blindness have come upon +us. Sore faces and lips, blistered feet, cuts and abrasions; there are +few without some troublesome ailment, but, of course, such things are +'part of the business.' The soles of my feet are infernally sore. + +'Of course the elements are going to be troublesome, but it is good +to know them as the only adversary and to feel there is so small a +chance of internal friction.' + +Ponting had an alarming adventure about this time. Bent on getting +artistic photographs with striking objects, such as hummocked floes +or reflecting water, in the foreground, he used to depart with his +own small sledge laden with cameras and cinematograph to journey +alone to the grounded icebergs. One morning as he tramped along +harnessed to his sledge, his snow glasses clouded with the mist of +perspiration, he suddenly felt the ice giving under his feet. He +describes the sensation as the worst he ever experienced, and one can +well believe it; there was no one near to have lent assistance had he +gone through. Instinctively he plunged forward, the ice giving at every +step and the sledge dragging through water. Providentially the weak +area he had struck was very limited, and in a minute or two he pulled +out on a firm surface. He remarked that he was perspiring very freely! + +Looking back it is easy to see that we were terribly incautious in +our treatment of this decaying ice. + + + +CHAPTER IV + +Settling In + +_Sunday, January 8_.--A day of disaster. I stupidly gave permission for +the third motor to be got out this morning. This was done first thing +and the motor placed on firm ice. Later Campbell told me one of the men +had dropped a leg through crossing a sludgy patch some 200 yards from +the ship. I didn't consider it very serious, as I imagined the man +had only gone through the surface crust. About 7 A.M. I started for +the shore with a single man load, leaving Campbell looking about for +the best crossing for the motor. I sent Meares and the dogs over with +a can of petrol on arrival. After some twenty minutes he returned to +tell me the motor had gone through. Soon after Campbell and Day arrived +to confirm the dismal tidings. It appears that getting frightened of +the state of affairs Campbell got out a line and attached it to the +motor--then manning the line well he attempted to rush the machine +across the weak place. A man on the rope, Wilkinson, suddenly went +through to the shoulders, but was immediately hauled out. During the +operation the ice under the motor was seen to give, and suddenly it +and the motor disappeared. The men kept hold of the rope, but it cut +through the ice towards them with an ever increasing strain, obliging +one after another to let go. Half a minute later nothing remained but +a big hole. Perhaps it was lucky there was no accident to the men, +but it's a sad incident for us in any case. It's a big blow to know +that one of the two best motors, on which so much time and trouble +have been spent, now lies at the bottom of the sea. The actual spot +where the motor disappeared was crossed by its fellow motor with a +very heavy load as well as by myself with heavy ponies only yesterday. + +Meares took Campbell back and returned with the report that the ice +in the vicinity of the accident was hourly getting more dangerous. + +It was clear that we were practically cut off, certainly as regards +heavy transport. Bowers went back again with Meares and managed +to ferry over some wind clothes and odds and ends. Since that no +communication has been held; the shore party have been working, +but the people on board have had a half holiday. + +At 6 I went to the ice edge farther to the north. I found a place where +the ship could come and be near the heavy ice over which sledging +is still possible. I went near the ship and semaphored directions +for her to get to this place as soon as she could, using steam if +necessary. She is at present wedged in with the pack, and I think +Pennell hopes to warp her along when the pack loosens. + +Meares and I marked the new trail with kerosene tins before +returning. So here we are waiting again till fortune is +kinder. Meanwhile the hut proceeds; altogether there are four layers +of boarding to go on, two of which are nearing completion; it will +be some time before the rest and the insulation is on. + +It's a big job getting settled in like this and a tantalising one +when one is hoping to do some depot work before the season closes. + +We had a keen north wind to-night and a haze, but wind is dropping and +sun shining brightly again. To-day seemed to be the hottest we have +yet had; after walking across I was perspiring freely, and later as +I sat in the sun after lunch one could almost imagine a warm summer +day in England. + +This is my first night ashore. I'm writing in one of my new domed +tents which makes a very comfortable apartment. + +_Monday, January_ 9.--I didn't poke my nose out of my tent till 6.45, +and the first object I saw was the ship, which had not previously been +in sight from our camp. She was now working her way along the ice +edge with some difficulty. I heard afterwards that she had started +at 6.15 and she reached the point I marked yesterday at 8.15. After +breakfast I went on board and was delighted to find a good solid +road right up to the ship. A flag was hoisted immediately for the +ponies to come out, and we commenced a good day's work. All day the +sledges have been coming to and fro, but most of the pulling work +has been done by the ponies: the track is so good that these little +animals haul anything from 12 to 18 cwt. Both dogs and men parties +have been a useful addition to the haulage--no party or no single +man comes over without a load averaging 300 lbs. per man. The dogs, +working five to a team, haul 5 to 6 cwt. and of course they travel +much faster than either ponies or men. + +In this way we transported a large quantity of miscellaneous stores; +first about 3 tons of coal for present use, then 2 1/2 tons of carbide, +all the many stores, chimney and ventilators for the hut, all the +biologists' gear--a big pile, the remainder of the physicists' gear +and medical stores, and many old cases; in fact a general clear up +of everything except the two heavy items of forage and fuel. Later in +the day we made a start on the first of these, and got 7 tons ashore +before ceasing work. We close with a good day to our credit, marred +by an unfortunate incident--one of the dogs, a good puller, was seen +to cough after a journey; he was evidently trying to bring something +up--two minutes later he was dead. Nobody seems to know the reason, +but a post-mortem is being held by Atkinson and I suppose the cause +of death will be found. We can't afford to lose animals of any sort. + +All the ponies except three have now brought loads from the +ship. Oates thinks these three are too nervous to work over this +slippery surface. However, he tried one of the hardest cases to-night, +a very fine pony, and got him in successfully with a big load. + +To-morrow we ought to be running some twelve or thirteen of these +animals. + +Griffith Taylor's bolted on three occasions, the first two times more +or less due to his own fault, but the third owing to the stupidity +of one of the sailors. Nevertheless a third occasion couldn't be +overlooked by his messmates, who made much merriment of the event. It +was still funnier when he brought his final load (an exceptionally +heavy one) with a set face and ardent pace, vouchsafing not a word +to anyone he passed. + +We have achieved fair organisation to-day. Evans is in charge of the +road and periodically goes along searching for bad places and bridging +cracks with boards and snow. + +Bowers checks every case as it comes on shore and dashes off to the +ship to arrange the precedence of different classes of goods. He proves +a perfect treasure; there is not a single case he does not know or +a single article of any sort which he cannot put his hand on at once. + +Rennick and Bruce are working gallantly at the discharge of stores +on board. + +Williamson and Leese load the sledges and are getting very clever +and expeditious. Evans (seaman) is generally superintending the +sledging and camp outfit. Forde, Keohane, and Abbott are regularly +assisting the carpenter, whilst Day, Lashly, Lillie, and others give +intermittent help. + +Wilson, Cherry-Garrard, Wright, Griffith Taylor, Debenham, Crean, and +Browning have been driving ponies, a task at which I have assisted +myself once or twice. There was a report that the ice was getting +rotten, but I went over it myself and found it sound throughout. The +accident with the motor sledge has made people nervous. + +The weather has been very warm and fine on the whole, with occasional +gleams of sunshine, but to-night there is a rather chill wind from +the south. The hut is progressing famously. In two more working days +we ought to have everything necessary on shore. + +_Tuesday, January_ 10.--We have been six days in McMurdo Sound and +to-night I can say we are landed. Were it impossible to land another +pound we could go on without hitch. Nothing like it has been done +before; nothing so expeditious and complete. This morning the main +loads were fodder. Sledge after sledge brought the bales, and early +in the afternoon the last (except for about a ton stowed with Eastern +Party stores) was brought on shore. Some addition to our patent fuel +was made in the morning, and later in the afternoon it came in a +steady stream. We have more than 12 tons and could make this do if +necessity arose. + +In addition to this oddments have been arriving all day--instruments, +clothing, and personal effects. Our camp is becoming so perfect in +its appointments that I am almost suspicious of some drawback hidden +by the summer weather. + +The hut is progressing apace, and all agree that it should be the +most perfectly comfortable habitation. 'It amply repays the time +and attention given to the planning.' The sides have double boarding +inside and outside the frames, with a layer of our excellent quilted +seaweed insulation between each pair of boardings. The roof has a +single matchboarding inside, but on the outside is a matchboarding, +then a layer of 2-ply 'ruberoid,' then a layer of quilted seaweed, then +a second matchboarding, and finally a cover of 3-ply 'ruberoid.' The +first floor is laid, but over this there will be a quilting, a felt +layer, a second boarding, and finally linoleum; as the plenteous +volcanic sand can be piled well up on every side it is impossible to +imagine that draughts can penetrate into the hut from beneath, and +it is equally impossible to imagine great loss of heat by contact +or radiation in that direction. To add to the wall insulation the +south and east sides of the hut are piled high with compressed forage +bales, whilst the north side is being prepared as a winter stable for +the ponies. The stable will stand between the wall of the hut and a +wall built of forage bales, six bales high and two bales thick. This +will be roofed with rafters and tarpaulin, as we cannot find enough +boarding. We shall have to take care that too much snow does not +collect on the roof, otherwise the place should do excellently well. + +Some of the ponies are very troublesome, but all except two have been +running to-day, and until this evening there were no excitements. After +tea Oates suggested leading out the two intractable animals behind +other sledges; at the same time he brought out the strong, nervous +grey pony. I led one of the supposedly safe ponies, and all went well +whilst we made our journey; three loads were safely brought in. But +whilst one of the sledges was being unpacked the pony tied to it +suddenly got scared. Away he dashed with sledge attached; he made +straight for the other ponies, but finding the incubus still fast +to him he went in wider circles, galloped over hills and boulders, +narrowly missing Ponting and his camera, and finally dashed down hill +to camp again pretty exhausted--oddly enough neither sledge nor pony +was much damaged. Then we departed again in the same order. Half-way +over the floe my rear pony got his foreleg foul of his halter, then +got frightened, tugged at his halter, and lifted the unladen sledge to +which he was tied--then the halter broke and away he went. But by this +time the damage was done. My pony snorted wildly and sprang forward as +the sledge banged to the ground. I just managed to hold him till Oates +came up, then we started again; but he was thoroughly frightened--all +my blandishments failed when he reared and plunged a second time, +and I was obliged to let go. He galloped back and the party dejectedly +returned. At the camp Evans got hold of the pony, but in a moment it +was off again, knocking Evans off his legs. Finally he was captured +and led forth once more between Oates and Anton. He remained fairly +well on the outward journey, but on the homeward grew restive again; +Evans, who was now leading him, called for Anton, and both tried to +hold him, but to no purpose--he dashed off, upset his load, and came +back to camp with the sledge. All these troubles arose after he had +made three journeys without a hitch and we had come to regard him as +a nice, placid, gritty pony. Now I'm afraid it will take a deal of +trouble to get him safe again, and we have three very troublesome +beasts instead of two. I have written this in some detail to show +the unexpected difficulties that arise with these animals, and the +impossibility of knowing exactly where one stands. The majority of +our animals seem pretty quiet now, but any one of them may break out +in this way if things go awry. There is no doubt that the bumping of +the sledges close at the heels of the animals is the root of the evil. + +The weather has the appearance of breaking. We had a strongish +northerly breeze at midday with snow and hail storms, and now the wind +has turned to the south and the sky is overcast with threatenings of a +blizzard. The floe is cracking and pieces may go out--if so the ship +will have to get up steam again. The hail at noon made the surface +very bad for some hours; the men and dogs felt it most. + +The dogs are going well, but Meares says he thinks that several are +suffering from snow blindness. I never knew a dog get it before, but +Day says that Shackleton's dogs suffered from it. The post-mortem +on last night's death revealed nothing to account for it. Atkinson +didn't examine the brain, and wonders if the cause lay there. There is +a certain satisfaction in believing that there is nothing infectious. + +_Wednesday, January_ ll.--A week here to-day--it seems quite a month, +so much has been crammed into a short space of time. + +The threatened blizzard materialised at about four o'clock this +morning. The wind increased to force six or seven at the ship, and +continued to blow, with drift, throughout the forenoon. + +Campbell and his sledging party arrived at the Camp at 8.0 +A.M. bringing a small load: there seemed little object, but I suppose +they like the experience of a march in the blizzard. They started +to go back, but the ship being blotted out, turned and gave us their +company at breakfast. The day was altogether too bad for outside work, +so we turned our attention to the hut interior, with the result that +to-night all the matchboarding is completed. The floor linoleum is +the only thing that remains to be put down; outside, the roof and ends +have to be finished. Then there are several days of odd jobs for the +carpenter, and all will be finished. It is a first-rate building in +an extraordinarily sheltered spot; whilst the wind was raging at the +ship this morning we enjoyed comparative peace. Campbell says there +was an extraordinary change as he approached the beach. + +I sent two or three people to dig into the hard snow drift behind +the camp; they got into solid ice immediately, became interested +in the job, and have begun the making of a cave which is to be our +larder. Already they have tunnelled 6 or 8 feet in and have begun +side channels. In a few days they will have made quite a spacious +apartment--an ideal place to keep our meat store. We had been +speculating as to the origin of this solid drift and attached great +antiquity to it, but the diggers came to a patch of earth with skua +feathers, which rather knocks our theories on the head. + +The wind began to drop at midday, and after lunch I went to the +ship. I was very glad to learn that she can hold steam at two hours' +notice on an expenditure of 13 cwt. The ice anchors had held well +during the blow. + +As far as I can see the open water extends to an east and west line +which is a little short of the glacier tongue. + +To-night the wind has dropped altogether and we return to the +glorious conditions of a week ago. I trust they may last for a few +days at least. + +_Thursday, January_ 12.--Bright sun again all day, but in the afternoon +a chill wind from the S.S.W. Again we are reminded of the shelter +afforded by our position; to-night the anemometers on Observatory +Hill show a 20-mile wind--down in our valley we only have mild puffs. + +Sledging began as usual this morning; seven ponies and the dog teams +were hard at it all the forenoon. I ran six journeys with five dogs, +driving them in the Siberian fashion for the first time. It was not +difficult, but I kept forgetting the Russian words at critical moments: +'Ki'--'right'; 'Tchui'--'left'; 'Itah'--'right ahead'; [here is a +blank in memory and in diary]--'get along'; 'Paw'--'stop.' Even my +short experience makes me think that we may have to reorganise this +driving to suit our particular requirements. I am inclined for smaller +teams and the driver behind the sledge. However, it's early days to +decide such matters, and we shall learn much on the depot journey. + +Early in the afternoon a message came from the ship to say that all +stores had been landed. Nothing remains to be brought but mutton, +books and pictures, and the pianola. So at last we really are a +self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We are LANDED eight +days after our arrival--a very good record. + +The hut could be inhabited at this moment, but probably we shall not +begin to live in it for a week. Meanwhile the carpenter will go on +steadily fitting up the dark room and various other compartments as +well as Simpson's Corner. [6] + +The grotto party are making headway into the ice for our larder, +but it is slow and very arduous work. However, once made it will be +admirable in every way. + +To-morrow we begin sending ballast off to the ship; some 30 tons will +be sledged off by the ponies. The hut and grotto parties will continue, +and the arrangements for the depot journey will be commenced. I +discussed these with Bowers this afternoon--he is a perfect treasure, +enters into one's ideas at once, and evidently thoroughly understands +the principles of the game. + +I have arranged to go to Hut Point with Meares and some dogs to-morrow +to test the ice and see how the land lies. As things are at present +we ought to have little difficulty in getting the depot party away +any time before the end of the month, but the ponies will have to +cross the Cape [7] without loads. There is a way down on the south +side straight across, and another way round, keeping the land on the +north side and getting on ice at the Cape itself. Probably the ship +will take the greater part of the loads. + +_Saturday, January_ 14.--The completion of our station is approaching +with steady progress. The wind was strong from the S.S.E. yesterday +morning, sweeping over the camp; the temperature fell to 15°, the sky +became overcast. To the south the land outlines were hazy with drift, +so my dog tour was abandoned. In the afternoon, with some moderation +of conditions, the ballast party went to work, and wrought so well +that more than 10 tons were got off before night. The organisation of +this work is extremely good. The loose rocks are pulled up, some 30 or +40 feet up the hillside, placed on our heavy rough sledges and rushed +down to the floe on a snow track; here they are laden on pony sledges +and transported to the ship. I slept on board the ship and found it +colder than the camp--the cabins were below freezing all night and +the only warmth existed in the cheery spirit of the company. The +cold snap froze the water in the boiler and Williams had to light +one of the fires this morning. I shaved and bathed last night (the +first time for 10 days) and wrote letters from breakfast till tea +time to-day. Meanwhile the ballast team has been going on merrily, +and to-night Pennell must have some 26 tons on board. + +It was good to return to the camp and see the progress which had +been made even during such a short absence. The grotto has been much +enlarged and is, in fact, now big enough to hold all our mutton and +a considerable quantity of seal and penguin. + +Close by Simpson and Wright have made surprising progress in excavating +for the differential magnetic hut. They have already gone in 7 feet +and, turning a corner, commenced the chamber, which is to be 13 feet +× 5 feet. The hard ice of this slope is a godsend and both grottoes +will be ideal for their purposes. + +The cooking range and stove have been placed in the hut and now +chimneys are being constructed; the porch is almost finished as well +as the interior; the various carpenters are busy with odd jobs and +it will take them some time to fix up the many small fittings that +different people require. + +I have been making arrangements for the depôt journey, telling off +people for ponies and dogs, &c._9_ + +To-morrow is to be our first rest day, but next week everything will +be tending towards sledging preparations. I have also been discussing +and writing about the provisions of animals to be brought down in +the _Terra Nova_ next year. + +The wind is very persistent from the S.S.E., rising and falling; +to-night it has sprung up again, and is rattling the canvas of +the tent. + +Some of the ponies are not turning out so well as I expected; they +are slow walkers and must inevitably impede the faster ones. Two of +the best had been told off for Campbell by Oates, but I must alter +the arrangement. 'Then I am not quite sure they are going to stand +the cold well, and on this first journey they may have to face pretty +severe conditions. Then, of course, there is the danger of losing +them on thin ice or by injury sustained in rough places. Although we +have fifteen now (two having gone for the Eastern Party) it is not at +all certain that we shall have such a number when the main journey is +undertaken next season. One can only be careful and hope for the best.' + +_Sunday, January_ 15.--We had decided to observe this day as a 'day +of rest,' and so it has been. + +At one time or another the majority have employed their spare hours +in writing letters. + +We rose late, having breakfast at nine. The morning promised well and +the day fulfilled the promise: we had bright sunshine and practically +no wind. + +At 10 A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and we all +assembled on the beach and I read Divine Service, our first Service at +the camp and impressive in the open air. After Service I told Campbell +that I should have to cancel his two ponies and give him two others. He +took it like the gentleman he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason. + +He had asked me previously to be allowed to go to Cape Royds over the +glacier and I had given permission. After our talk we went together +to explore the route, which we expected to find much crevassed. I +only intended to go a short way, but on reaching the snow above the +uncovered hills of our Cape I found the surface so promising and so +free from cracks that I went quite a long way. Eventually I turned, +leaving Campbell, Gran, and Nelson roped together and on ski to make +their way onward, but not before I felt certain that the route to +Cape Royds would be quite easy. As we topped the last rise we saw +Taylor and Wright some way ahead on the slope; they had come up by +a different route. Evidently they are bound for the same goal. + +I returned to camp, and after lunch Meares and I took a sledge +and nine dogs over the Cape to the sea ice on the south side and +started for Hut Point. We took a little provision and a cooker and +our sleeping-bags. Meares had found a way over the Cape which was +on snow all the way except about 100 yards. The dogs pulled well, +and we went towards the Glacier Tongue at a brisk pace; found much of +the ice uncovered. Towards the Glacier Tongue there were some heaps +of snow much wind blown. As we rose the glacier we saw the _Nimrod_ +depot some way to the right and made for it. We found a good deal +of compressed fodder and boxes of maize, but no grain crushed as +expected. The open water was practically up to the Glacier Tongue. + +We descended by an easy slope 1/4 mile from the end of the Glacier +Tongue, but found ourselves cut off by an open crack some 15 feet +across and had to get on the glacier again and go some 1/2 mile +farther in. We came to a second crack, but avoided it by skirting to +the west. From this point we had an easy run without difficulty to +Hut Point. There was a small pool of open water and a longish crack +off Hut Point. I got my feet very wet crossing the latter. We passed +hundreds of seals at the various cracks. + +On the arrival at the hut to my chagrin we found it filled with +snow. Shackleton reported that the door had been forced by the wind, +but that he had made an entrance by the window and found shelter +inside--other members of his party used it for shelter. But they +actually went away and left the window (which they had forced) open; +as a result, nearly the whole of the interior of the hut is filled +with hard icy snow, and it is now impossible to find shelter inside. + +Meares and I were able to clamber over the snow to some extent and +to examine the neat pile of cases in the middle, but they will take +much digging out. We got some asbestos sheeting from the magnetic +hut and made the best shelter we could to boil our cocoa. + +There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in +such a desolate condition. I had had so much interest in seeing +all the old landmarks and the huts apparently intact. To camp +outside and feel that all the old comfort and cheer had departed, +was dreadfully heartrending. I went to bed thoroughly depressed. It +stems a fundamental expression of civilised human sentiment that men +who come to such places as this should leave what comfort they can +to welcome those who follow. + +_Monday, January_ 16.--We slept badly till the morning and, +therefore, late. After breakfast we went up the hills; there was a +keen S.E. breeze, but the sun shone and my spirits revived. There was +very much less snow everywhere than I had ever seen. The ski run was +completely cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill +almost bare, a great bare slope on the side of Arrival Heights, and +on top of Crater Heights an immense bare table-land. How delighted +we should have been to see it like this in the old days! The pond was +thawed and the #confervae green in fresh water. The hole which we had +dug in the mound in the pond was still there, as Meares discovered +by falling into it up to his waist and getting very wet. + +On the south side we could see the Pressure Ridges beyond Pram Point +as of old--Horseshoe Bay calm and unpressed--the sea ice pressed +on Pram Point and along the Gap ice foot, and a new ridge running +around C. Armitage about 2 miles off. We saw Ferrar's old thermometer +tubes standing out of the snow slope as though they'd been placed +yesterday. Vince's cross might have been placed yesterday--the paint +was so fresh and the inscription so legible. + +The flagstaff was down, the stays having carried away, but in five +minutes it could be put up again. We loaded some asbestos sheeting +from the old magnetic hut on our sledges for Simpson, and by standing +1/4 mile off Hut Point got a clear run to Glacier Tongue. I had hoped +to get across the wide crack by going west, but found that it ran for +a great distance and had to get on the glacier at the place at which +we had left it. We got to camp about teatime. I found our larder +in the grotto completed and stored with mutton and penguins--the +temperature inside has never been above 27°, so that it ought to be +a fine place for our winter store. Simpson has almost completed the +differential magnetic cave next door. The hut stove was burning well +and the interior of the building already warm and homelike--a day or +two and we shall be occupying it. + +I took Ponting out to see some interesting thaw effects on the ice +cliffs east of the Camp. I noted that the ice layers were pressing +out over thin dirt bands as though the latter made the cleavage lines +over which the strata slid. + +It has occurred to me that although the sea ice may freeze in our bays +early in March it will be a difficult thing to get ponies across it +owing to the cliff edges at the side. We must therefore be prepared +to be cut off for a longer time than I anticipated. I heard that all +the people who journeyed towards C. Royds yesterday reached their +destination in safety. Campbell, Levick, and Priestley had just +departed when I returned._10_ + +_Tuesday, January_ 17.--We took up our abode in the hut to-day +and are simply overwhelmed with its comfort. After breakfast this +morning I found Bowers making cubicles as I had arranged, but I soon +saw these would not fit in, so instructed him to build a bulkhead of +cases which shuts off the officers' space from the men's, I am quite +sure to the satisfaction of both. The space between my bulkhead and +the men's I allotted to five: Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Meares, and +Cherry-Garrard. These five are all special friends and have already +made their dormitory very habitable. Simpson and Wright are near the +instruments in their corner. Next come Day and Nelson in a space which +includes the latter's 'Lab.' near the big window; next to this is a +space for three--Debenham, Taylor, and Gran; they also have already +made their space part dormitory and part workshop. + +It is fine to see the way everyone sets to work to put things straight; +in a day or two the hut will become the most comfortable of houses, +and in a week or so the whole station, instruments, routine, men and +animals, &c., will be in working order. + +It is really wonderful to realise the amount of work which has been +got through of late. + +It will be a _fortnight to-morrow_ since we arrived in McMurdo Sound, +and here we are absolutely settled down and ready to start on our depôt +journey directly the ponies have had a proper chance to recover from +the effects of the voyage. I had no idea we should be so expeditious. + +It snowed hard all last night; there were about three or four inches +of soft snow over the camp this morning and Simpson tells me some +six inches out by the ship. The camp looks very white. During the +day it has been blowing very hard from the south, with a great deal +of drift. Here in this camp as usual we do not feel it much, but we +see the anemometer racing on the hill and the snow clouds sweeping +past the ship. The floe is breaking between the point and the ship, +though curiously it remains fast on a direct route to the ship. Now +the open water runs parallel to our ship road and only a few hundred +yards south of it. Yesterday the whaler was rowed in close to the +camp, and if the ship had steam up she could steam round to within +a few hundred yards of us. The big wedge of ice to which the ship is +holding on the outskirts of the Bay can have very little grip to keep +it in and must inevitably go out very soon. I hope this may result +in the ship finding a more sheltered and secure position close to us. + +A big iceberg sailed past the ship this afternoon. Atkinson declares +it was the end of the Cape Barne Glacier. I hope they will know in +the ship, as it would be interesting to witness the birth of a glacier +in this region. + +It is clearing to-night, but still blowing hard. The ponies don't +like the wind, but they are all standing the cold wonderfully and +all their sores are healed up. + +_Wednesday, January_ 18.--The ship had a poor time last night; steam +was ordered, but the floe began breaking up fast at 1 A.M., and the +rest of the night was passed in struggling with ice anchors; steam +was reported ready just as the ship broke adrift. In the morning she +secured to the ice edge on the same line as before but a few hundred +yards nearer. After getting things going at the hut, I walked over and +suggested that Pennell should come round the corner close in shore. The +ice anchors were tripped and we steamed slowly in, making fast to +the floe within 200 yards of the ice foot and 400 yards of the hut. + +For the present the position is extraordinarily comfortable. With a +southerly blow she would simply bind on to the ice, receiving great +shelter from the end of the Cape. With a northerly blow she might +turn rather close to the shore, where the soundings run to 3 fathoms, +but behind such a stretch of ice she could scarcely get a sea or swell +without warning. It looks a wonderfully comfortable little nook, but, +of course, one can be certain of nothing in this place; one knows from +experience how deceptive the appearance of security may be. Pennell +is truly excellent in his present position--he's invariably cheerful, +unceasingly watchful, and continuously ready for emergencies. I have +come to possess implicit confidence in him. + +The temperature fell to 4° last night, with a keen S.S.E. breeze; it +was very unpleasant outside after breakfast. Later in the forenoon +the wind dropped and the sun shone forth. This afternoon it fell +almost calm, but the sky clouded over again and now there is a +gentle warm southerly breeze with light falling snow and an overcast +sky. Rather significant of a blizzard if we had not had such a lot of +wind lately. The position of the ship makes the casual transport that +still proceeds very easy, but the ice is rather thin at the edge. In +the hut all is marching towards the utmost comfort. + +Bowers has completed a storeroom on the south side, an excellent place +to keep our travelling provisions. Every day he conceives or carries +out some plan to benefit the camp. Simpson and Wright are worthy of +all admiration: they have been unceasingly active in getting things +to the fore and I think will be ready for routine work much earlier +than was anticipated. But, indeed, it is hard to specialise praise +where everyone is working so indefatigably for the cause. + +Each man in his way is a treasure. + +Clissold the cook has started splendidly, has served seal, penguin, +and skua now, and I can honestly say that I have never met these +articles of food in such a pleasing guise; 'this point is of the +greatest practical importance, as it means the certainty of good +health for any number of years.' Hooper was landed to-day, much to +his joy. He got to work at once, and will be a splendid help, freeing +the scientific people of all dirty work. Anton and Demetri are both +most anxious to help on all occasions; they are excellent boys. + +_Thursday, January_ 19.--The hut is becoming the most comfortable +dwelling-place imaginable. We have made unto ourselves a truly +seductive home, within the walls of which peace, quiet, and comfort +reign supreme. + +Such a noble dwelling transcends the word 'hut,' and we pause to +give it a more fitting title only from lack of the appropriate +suggestion. What shall we call it? + +'The word "hut" is misleading. Our residence is really a house of +considerable size, in every respect the finest that has ever been +erected in the Polar regions; 50 ft. long by 25 wide and 9 ft. to +the eaves. + +'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill on a long +stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision cases ranged in neat +blocks in front of it and the sea lapping the icefoot below, you will +have some idea of our immediate vicinity. As for our wider surroundings +it would be difficult to describe their beauty in sufficiently glowing +terms. Cape Evans is one of the many spurs of Erebus and the one that +stands closest under the mountain, so that always towering above us +we have the grand snowy peak with its smoking summit. North and south +of us are deep bays, beyond which great glaciers come rippling over +the lower slopes to thrust high blue-walled snouts into the sea. The +sea is blue before us, dotted with shining bergs or ice floes, whilst +far over the Sound, yet so bold and magnificent as to appear near, +stand the beautiful Western Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks, +their deep glacial valley and clear cut scarps, a vision of mountain +scenery that can have few rivals. + +'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the +most beautiful spot he has ever seen and spends all day and most +of the night in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera and +cinematograph.' + +The wind has been boisterous all day, to advantage after the last snow +fall, as it has been drifting the loose snow along and hardening the +surfaces. The horses don't like it, naturally, but it wouldn't do to +pamper them so soon before our journey. I think the hardening process +must be good for animals though not for men; nature replies to it in +the former by growing a thick coat with wonderful promptitude. It seems +to me that the shaggy coats of our ponies are already improving. The +dogs seem to feel the cold little so far, but they are not so exposed. + +A milder situation might be found for the ponies if only we could +picket them off the snow. + +Bowers has completed his southern storeroom and brought the wing +across the porch on the windward side, connecting the roofing with +that of the porch. The improvement is enormous and will make the +greatest difference to those who dwell near the door. + +The carpenter has been setting up standards and roof beams for the +stables, which will be completed in a few days. Internal affairs have +been straightening out as rapidly as before, and every hour seems to +add some new touch for the better. + +This morning I overhauled all the fur sleeping-bags and found them +in splendid order--on the whole the skins are excellent. Since that +I have been trying to work out sledge details, but my head doesn't +seem half as clear on the subject as it ought to be. + +I have fixed the 25th as the date for our departure. Evans is to get +all the sledges and gear ready whilst Bowers superintends the filling +of provision bags. + +Griffith Taylor and his companions have been seeking advice as to their +Western trip. Wilson, dear chap, has been doing his best to coach them. + +Ponting has fitted up his own dark room--doing the carpentering work +with extraordinary speed and to everyone's admiration. To-night he +made a window in the dark room in an hour or so. + +Meares has become enamoured of the gramophone. We find we have +a splendid selection of records. The pianola is being brought in +sections, but I'm not at all sure it will be worth the trouble. Oates +goes steadily on with the ponies--he is perfectly excellent and +untiring in his devotion to the animals. + +Day and Nelson, having given much thought to the proper fitting up +of their corner, have now begun work. There seems to be little doubt +that these ingenious people will make the most of their allotted space. + +I have done quite a lot of thinking over the autumn journeys and a +lot remains to be done, mainly on account of the prospect of being +cut off from our winter quarters; for this reason we must have a +great deal of food for animals and men. + +_Friday, January_ 20.--Our house has assumed great proportions. Bowers' +annexe is finished, roof and all thoroughly snow tight; an excellent +place for spare clothing, furs, and ready use stores, and its extension +affording complete protection to the entrance porch of the hut. The +stables are nearly finished--a thoroughly stout well-roofed lean-to +on the north side. Nelson has a small extension on the east side +and Simpson a prearranged projection on the S.E. corner, so that +on all sides the main building has thrown out limbs. Simpson has +almost completed his ice cavern, light-tight lining, niches, floor +and all. Wright and Forde have almost completed the absolute hut, +a patchwork building for which the framework only was brought--but +it will be very well adapted for our needs. + +Gran has been putting 'record' on the ski runners. Record is a mixture +of vegetable tar, paraffin, soft soap, and linseed oil, with some +patent addition which prevents freezing--this according to Gran. + +P.O. Evans and Crean have been preparing sledges; Evans shows himself +wonderfully capable, and I haven't a doubt as to the working of the +sledges he has fitted up. + +We have been serving out some sledging gear and wintering boots. We are +delighted with everything. First the felt boots and felt slippers made +by Jaeger and then summer wind clothes and fur mits--nothing could be +better than these articles. Finally to-night we have overhauled and +served out two pairs of finnesko (fur boots) to each traveller. They +are excellent in quality. At first I thought they seemed small, but a +stiffness due to cold and dryness misled me--a little stretching and +all was well. They are very good indeed. I have an idea to use putties +to secure our wind trousers to the finnesko. But indeed the whole +time we are thinking of devices to make our travelling work easier. + +'We have now tried most of our stores, and so far we have not found +a single article that is not perfectly excellent in quality and +preservation. We are well repaid for all the trouble which was taken in +selecting the food list and the firms from which the various articles +could best be obtained, and we are showering blessings on Mr. Wyatt's +head for so strictly safeguarding our interests in these particulars. + +'Our clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running +through the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with some pride +that there is not a single arrangement which I would have had altered.' + +An Emperor penguin was found on the Cape well advanced in moult, +a good specimen skin. Atkinson found cysts formed by a tapeworm in +the intestines. It seems clear that this parasite is not transferred +from another host, and that its history is unlike that of any other +known tapeworm--in fact, Atkinson scores a discovery in parasitology +of no little importance. + +The wind has turned to the north to-night and is blowing quite fresh. I +don't much like the position of the ship as the ice is breaking away +all the time. The sky is quite clear and I don't think the wind often +lasts long under such conditions. + +The pianola has been erected by Rennick. He is a good fellow and one +feels for him much at such a time--it must be rather dreadful for +him to be returning when he remembers that he was once practically +one of the shore party._11_ The pianola has been his special care, +and it shows well that he should give so much pains in putting it +right for us. + +Day has been explaining the manner in which he hopes to be able to +cope with the motor sledge difficulty. He is hopeful of getting things +right, but I fear it won't do to place more reliance on the machines. + +Everything looks hopeful for the depot journey if only we can get +our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue. + +We had some seal rissoles to-day so extraordinarily well cooked that +it was impossible to distinguish them from the best beef rissoles. I +told two of the party they were beef, and they made no comment till I +enlightened them after they had eaten two each. It is the first time +I have tasted seal without being aware of its particular flavour. But +even its own flavour is acceptable in our cook's hands--he really +is excellent. + +_Saturday, January_ 21.--My anxiety for the ship was not +unfounded. Fearing a little trouble I went out of the hut in the middle +of the night and saw at once that she was having a bad time--the +ice was breaking with a northerly swell and the wind increasing, +with the ship on dead lee shore; luckily the ice anchors had been +put well in on the floe and some still held. Pennell was getting up +steam and his men struggling to replace the anchors. + +We got out the men and gave some help. At 6 steam was up, and I was +right glad to see the ship back out to windward, leaving us to recover +anchors and hawsers. + +She stood away to the west, and almost immediately after a large berg +drove in and grounded in the place she had occupied. + +We spent the day measuring our provisions and fixing up clothing +arrangements for our journey; a good deal of progress has been made. + +In the afternoon the ship returned to the northern ice edge; the +wind was still strong (about N. 30 W.) and loose ice all along the +edge--our people went out with the ice anchors and I saw the ship +pass west again. Then as I went out on the floe came the report that +she was ashore. I ran out to the Cape with Evans and saw that the +report was only too true. She looked to be firmly fixed and in a very +uncomfortable position. It looked as though she had been trying to +get round the Cape, and therefore I argued she must have been going a +good pace as the drift was making rapidly to the south. Later Pennell +told me he had been trying to look behind the berg and had been going +astern some time before he struck. + +My heart sank when I looked at her and I sent Evans off in the whaler +to sound, recovered the ice anchors again, set the people to work, +and walked disconsolately back to the Cape to watch. + +Visions of the ship failing to return to New Zealand and of sixty +people waiting here arose in my mind with sickening pertinacity, +and the only consolation I could draw from such imaginations was the +determination that the southern work should go on as before--meanwhile +the least ill possible seemed to be an extensive lightening of the +ship with boats as the tide was evidently high when she struck--a +terribly depressing prospect. + +Some three or four of us watched it gloomily from the shore whilst +all was bustle on board, the men shifting cargo aft. Pennell tells +me they shifted 10 tons in a very short time. + +The first ray of hope came when by careful watching one could see +that the ship was turning very slowly, then one saw the men running +from side to side and knew that an attempt was being made to roll her +off. The rolling produced a more rapid turning movement at first and +then she seemed to hang again. But only for a short time; the engines +had been going astern all the time and presently a slight movement +became apparent. But we only knew she was getting clear when we heard +cheers on board and more cheers from the whaler. + +Then she gathered stern way and was clear. The relief was enormous. + +The wind dropped as she came off, and she is now securely moored off +the northern ice edge, where I hope the greater number of her people +are finding rest. For here and now I must record the splendid manner +in which these men are working. I find it difficult to express my +admiration for the manner in which the ship is handled and worked +under these very trying circumstances. + +From Pennell down there is not an officer or man who has not done his +job nobly during the past weeks, and it will be a glorious thing to +remember the unselfish loyal help they are giving us. + +Pennell has been over to tell me all about it to-night; I think I +like him more every day. + +Campbell and his party returned late this afternoon--I have not +heard details. + +Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue and satisfied themselves +that the ice is good. It only has to remain another three days, +and it would be poor luck if it failed in that time. + +_Sunday, January_ 22.--A quiet day with little to record. + +The ship lies peacefully in the bay; a brisk northerly breeze in +the forenoon died to light airs in the evening--it is warm enough, +the temperature in the hut was 63° this evening. We have had a long +busy day at clothing--everyone sewing away diligently. The Eastern +Party ponies were put on board the ship this morning. + +_Monday, January_ 23.--Placid conditions last for a very short time in +these regions. I got up at 5 this morning to find the weather calm and +beautiful, but to my astonishment an opening lane of water between the +land and the ice in the bay. The latter was going out in a solid mass. + +The ship discovered it easily, got up her ice anchors, sent a boat +ashore, and put out to sea to dredge. We went on with our preparations, +but soon Meares brought word that the ice in the south bay was going in +an equally rapid fashion. This proved an exaggeration, but an immense +piece of floe had separated from the land. Meares and I walked till +we came to the first ice. Luckily we found that it extends for some +2 miles along the rock of our Cape, and we discovered a possible way +to lead ponies down to it. It was plain that only the ponies could +go by it--no loads. + +Since that everything has been rushed--and a wonderful day's work has +resulted; we have got all the forage and food sledges and equipment +off to the ship--the dogs will follow in an hour, I hope, with pony +harness, &c., that is everything to do with our depôt party, except +the ponies. + +As at present arranged they are to cross the Cape and try to get +over the Southern Road [8] to-morrow morning. One breathes a prayer +that the Road holds for the few remaining hours. It goes in one place +between a berg in open water and a large pool of the glacier face--it +may be weak in that part, and at any moment the narrow isthmus may +break away. We are doing it on a very narrow margin. + +If all is well I go to the ship to-morrow morning after the ponies +have started, and then to Glacier Tongue. + + + +CHAPTER V + +Depôt Laying To One Ton Camp + +_Tuesday, January_ 24.--People were busy in the hut all last night--we +got away at 9 A.M. A boat from the _Terra Nova_ fetched the Western +Party and myself as the ponies were led out of the camp. Meares and +Wilson went ahead of the ponies to test the track. On board the ship I +was taken in to see Lillie's catch of sea animals. It was wonderful, +quantities of sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, +&c., &c.--but the _pièce de résistance_ was the capture of several +buckets full of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces had been +previously caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling that it alone +repays the whole enterprise. + +In the forenoon we skirted the Island, getting 30 and 40 fathoms of +water north and west of Inaccessible Island. With a telescope we could +see the string of ponies steadily progressing over the sea ice past the +Razor Back Islands. As soon as we saw them well advanced we steamed on +to the Glacier Tongue. The open water extended just round the corner +and the ship made fast in the narrow angle made by the sea ice with +the glacier, her port side flush with the surface of the latter. I +walked over to meet the ponies whilst Campbell went to investigate a +broad crack in the sea ice on the Southern Road. The ponies were got +on to the Tongue without much difficulty, then across the glacier, and +picketed on the sea ice close to the ship. Meanwhile Campbell informed +me that the big crack was 30 feet across: it was evident we must get +past it on the glacier, and I asked Campbell to peg out a road clear +of cracks. Oates reported the ponies ready to start again after tea, +and they were led along Campbell's road, their loads having already +been taken on the floe--all went well until the animals got down on +the floe level and Oates led across an old snowed-up crack. His and +the next pony got across, but the third made a jump at the edge and +sank to its stomach in the middle. It couldn't move, and with such +struggles as it made it sank deeper till only its head and forelegs +showed above the slush. With some trouble we got ropes on these, +and hauling together pulled the poor creature out looking very weak +and miserable and trembling much. + +We led the other ponies round farther to the west and eventually got +all out on the floe, gave them a small feed, and started them off with +their loads. The dogs meanwhile gave some excitement. Starting on +hard ice with a light load nothing could hold them, and they dashed +off over everything--it seemed wonderful that we all reached the +floe in safety. Wilson and I drive one team, whilst Evans and Meares +drive the other. I withhold my opinion of the dogs in much doubt as +to whether they are going to be a real success--but the ponies are +going to be real good. They work with such extraordinary steadiness, +stepping out briskly and cheerfully, following in each other's +tracks. The great drawback is the ease with which they sink in soft +snow: they go through in lots of places where the men scarcely make an +impression--they struggle pluckily when they sink, but it is trying to +watch them. We came with the loads noted below and one bale of fodder +(105 lbs.) added to each sledge. We are camped 6 miles from the glacier +and 2 from Hut Point--a cold east wind; to-night the temperature 19°. + +_Autumn Party to start January 25, 1911_ + +12 men, [9] 8 ponies, 26 dogs. + +First load estimated 5385 lbs., including 14 weeks' food and fuel +for men--taken to Cache No. 1. + +Ship transports following to Glacier Tongue: + + + lbs. + 130 Bales compressed fodder 13,650 + 24 Cases dog biscuit 1,400 + 10 Sacks of oats 1,600 ? + ------ + 16,650 + + +Teams return to ship to transport this load to Cache No. 1. Dog teams +also take on 500 lbs. of biscuit from Hut Point. + + + Pony Sledges + + lbs. + On all sledges + + Sledge with straps and tank 52 + Pony furniture 25 + Driver's ski and sleeping-bag, &c. 40 + + + Nos. 1 & 5 + Cooker and primus instruments 40 + Tank containing biscuit 172 + Sack of oats 160 + Tent and poles 28 + Alpine rope 5 + 1 oil can and spirit can 15 + --- + 537 + + Nos. 2 & 6 + Oil 100 + Tank contents: food bags 285 + Ready provision bag 63 + 2 picks 20 + --- + 468 + + Nos. 3 & 7 + Oil 100 + Tank contents: biscuit 196 + Sack of oats 160 + 2 shovels 9 + --- + 465 + + Nos. 4 & 8 + Box with tools, &c. 35 + Cookers, &c. 105 + Tank contents food bags 252 + Sack of oats 160 + 3 long bamboos and spare gear 15 + --- + 567 + + +Spare Gear per Man + + 2 pairs under socks + 2 pairs outer socks + 1 pair hair socks + 1 pair night socks + 1 pyjama jacket + 1 pyjama trousers + 1 woollen mits + 2 finnesko + Skein = 10 lbs. + Books, diaries, tobacco, &c. 2 ,, + -- + 12 lbs. + +Dress + + Vest and drawers + Woollen shirt + Jersey + Balaclava + Wind Suit + Two pairs socks + Ski boots. + + + +Dogs + + No. 1. + lbs. + Sledge straps and tanks 54 + Drivers' ski and bags 80 + Cooker primus and instruments 50 + Tank contents: biscuit 221 + Alpine rope 5 + Lamps and candles 4 + 2 shovels 9 + Ready provision bag 63 + Sledge meter 2 + --- + 488 + + No. 2. + lbs. + Sledge straps and tanks 54 + Drivers' ski and bags 80 + Tank contents: food bags 324 + Tent and poles 33 + --- + 491 + + +10-ft. sledge: men's harness, extra tent. + +_Thursday, January 26_.--Yesterday I went to the ship with a dog +team. All went well till the dogs caught sight of a whale breeching +in the 30 ft. lead and promptly made for it! It was all we could do +to stop them before we reached the water. + +Spent the day writing letters and completing arrangements for the +ship--a brisk northerly breeze sprang up in the night and the ship +bumped against the glacier until the pack came in as protection from +the swell. Ponies and dogs arrived about 1 P.M., and at 5 we all went +out for the final start. + +A little earlier Pennell had the men aft and I thanked them for +their splendid work. They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of +fellows never sailed in a ship. It was good to get their hearty send +off. Before we could get away Ponting had his half-hour photographing +us, the ponies and the dog teams--I hope he will have made a good +thing of it. It was a little sad to say farewell to all these good +fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily trust that all +will be successful in their ventures, for indeed their unselfishness +and their generous high spirit deserves reward. God bless them. + +So here we are with all our loads. One wonders what the upshot will +be. It will take three days to transport the loads to complete safety; +the break up of the sea ice ought not to catch us before that. The +wind is from the S.E. again to-night. + +_Friday, January_ 27.--Camp 2. Started at 9.30 and moved a load of +fodder 3 3/4 miles south--returned to camp to lunch--then shifted +camp and provisions. Our weights are now divided into three loads: +two of food for ponies, one of men's provisions with some ponies' +food. It is slow work, but we retreat slowly but surely from the +chance of going out on the sea ice. + +We are camped about a mile south of C. Armitage. After camping I went +to the east till abreast of Pram Point, finding the ice dangerously +thin off C. Armitage. It is evident we must make a considerable +détour to avoid danger. The rest of the party went to the _Discovery_ +hut to see what could be done towards digging it out. The report is +unfavourable, as I expected. The drift inside has become very solid--it +would take weeks of work to clear it. A great deal of biscuit and some +butter, cocoa, &c., was seen, so that we need not have any anxiety +about provisions if delayed in returning to Cape Evans. + +The dogs are very tired to-night. I have definitely handed the +control of the second team to Wilson. He was very eager to have +it and will do well I'm sure--but certainly also the dogs will not +pull heavy loads--500 pounds proved a back-breaking load for 11 dogs +to-day--they brought it at a snail's pace. Meares has estimated to +give them two-thirds of a pound of biscuit a day. I have felt sure +he will find this too little. + +The ponies are doing excellently. Their loads run up to 800 and 900 +lbs. and they make very light of them. Oates said he could have gone +on for some time to-night. + +_Saturday, January_ 28.--Camp 2. The ponies went back for the last load +at Camp 1, and I walked south to find a way round the great pressure +ridge. The sea ice south is covered with confused irregular sastrugi +well remembered from _Discovery_ days. The pressure ridge is new. The +broken ice of the ridge ended east of the spot I approached and the +pressure was seen only in a huge domed wave, the hollow of which +on my left was surrounded with a countless number of seals--these +lay about sleeping or apparently gambolling in the shallow water. I +imagine the old ice in this hollow has gone well under and that the +seals have a pool above it which may be warmer on such a bright day. + +It was evident that the ponies could be brought round by this route, +and I returned to camp to hear that one of the ponies (Keohane's) +had gone lame. The Soldier took a gloomy view of the situation, +but he is not an optimist. It looks as though a tendon had been +strained, but it is not at all certain. Bowers' pony is also weak in +the forelegs, but we knew this before: it is only a question of how +long he will last. The pity is that he is an excellently strong pony +otherwise. Atkinson has a bad heel and laid up all day--his pony was +tied behind another sledge, and went well, a very hopeful sign. + +In the afternoon I led the ponies out 2 3/4 miles south to the +crossing of the pressure ridge, then east 1 1/4 till we struck the +barrier edge and ascended it. Going about 1/2 mile in we dumped the +loads--the ponies sank deep just before the loads were dropped, but +it looked as though the softness was due to some rise in the surface. + +We saw a dark object a quarter of a mile north as we reached the +Barrier. I walked over and found it to be the tops of two tents more +than half buried--Shackleton's tents we suppose. A moulting Emperor +penguin was sleeping between them. The canvas on one tent seemed +intact, but half stripped from the other. + +The ponies pulled splendidly to-day, as also the dogs, but we have +decided to load both lightly from now on, to march them easily, and +to keep as much life as possible in them. There is much to be learnt +as to their powers of performance. + +Keohane says 'Come on, lad, you'll be getting to the Pole' by way of +cheering his animal--all the party is cheerful, there never were a +better set of people. + +_Sunday, January_ 29.--Camp 2. This morning after breakfast I +read prayers. Excellent day. The seven good ponies have made two +journeys to the Barrier, covering 18 geographical miles, half with +good loads--none of them were at all done. Oates' pony, a spirited, +nervous creature, got away at start when his head was left for a +moment and charged through the camp at a gallop; finally his sledge +cannoned into another, the swingle tree broke, and he galloped away, +kicking furiously at the dangling trace. Oates fetched him when he +had quieted down, and we found that nothing had been hurt or broken +but the swingle tree. + +Gran tried going on ski with his pony. All went well while he was +alongside, but when he came up from the back the swish of the ski +frightened the beast, who fled faster than his pursuer--that is, +the pony and load were going better than the Norwegian on ski. + +Gran is doing very well. He has a lazy pony and a good deal of work +to get him along, and does it very cheerfully. + +The dogs are doing excellently--getting into better condition +every day. + +They ran the first load 1 mile 1200 yards past the stores on the +Barrier, to the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home depot. + +I don't think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but it's +just as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp must deserve +its distinctive title of 'Safety.' + +In the afternoon the dogs ran a second load to the same place--covering +over 24 geographical miles in the day--an excellent day's work._12_ + +Evans and I took a load out on foot over the pressure ridge. The camp +load alone remains to be taken to the Barrier. Once we get to Safety +Camp we can stay as long as we like before starting our journey. It +is only when we start that we must travel fast. + +Most of the day it has been overcast, but to-night it has cleared +again. There is very little wind. The temperatures of late have been +ranging from 9° at night to 24° in the day. Very easy circumstances +for sledging. + +_Monday, January_ 30.--Camp 3. Safety Camp. Bearings: Lat. 77.55; Cape +Armitage N. 64 W.; Camel's Hump of Blue Glacier left, extreme; Castle +Rock N. 40 W. Called the camp at 7.30. Finally left with ponies at +11.30. There was a good deal to do, which partly accounts for delays, +but we shall have to 'buck up' with our camp arrangement. Atkinson +had his foot lanced and should be well in a couple of days. + +I led the lame pony; his leg is not swelled, but I fear he's developed +a permanent defect--there are signs of ring bone and the hoof is split. + +A great shock came when we passed the depôted fodder and made for +this camp. The ponies sank very deep and only brought on their loads +with difficulty, getting pretty hot. The distance was but 1 1/2 +miles, but it took more out of them than the rest of the march. We +camped and held a council of war after lunch. I unfolded my plan, +which is to go forward with five weeks' food for men and animals: to +depôt a fortnight's supply after twelve or thirteen days and return +here. The loads for ponies thus arranged work out a little over 600 +lbs., for the dog teams 700 lbs., both apart from sledges. The ponies +ought to do it easily if the surface is good enough for them to walk, +which is doubtful--the dogs may have to be lightened--such as it is, +it is the best we can do under the circumstances! + +This afternoon I went forward on ski to see if the conditions +changed. In 2 or 3 miles I could see no improvement. + +Bowers, Garrard, and the three men went and dug out the _Nimrod_ +tent. They found a cooker and provisions and remains of a hastily +abandoned meal. One tent was half full of hard ice, the result of +thaw. The Willesden canvas was rotten except some material used for +the doors. The floor cloth could not be freed. + +The Soldier doesn't like the idea of fetching up the remainder of the +loads to this camp with the ponies. I think we will bring on all we +can with the dogs and take the risk of leaving the rest. + +The _Nimrod_ camp was evidently made by some relief or ship party, +and if that has stood fast for so long there should be little fear +for our stuff in a single season. To-morrow we muster stores, build +the depot, and pack our sledges. + +_Tuesday, January_ 31.--Camp 3. We have everything ready to +start--but this afternoon we tried our one pair of snow-shoes on +'Weary Willy.' The effect was magical. He strolled around as though +walking on hard ground in places where he floundered woefully without +them. Oates hasn't had any faith in these shoes at all, and I thought +that even the quietest pony would need to be practised in their use. + +Immediately after our experiment I decided that an effort must be +made to get more, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson were on +their way to the station more than 20 miles away. There is just the +chance that the ice may not have gone out, but it is a very poor one +I fear. At present it looks as though we might double our distance +with the snow-shoes. + +Atkinson is better to-day, but not by any means well, so that the +delay is in his favour. We cannot start on till the dogs return with +or without the shoes. The only other hope for this journey is that the +Barrier gets harder farther out, but I feel that the prospect of this +is not very bright. In any case it is something to have discovered +the possibilities of these shoes. + +Low temperature at night for first time. Min. 2.4°. Quite warm in tent. + +_Wednesday, February_ 1.--Camp 3. A day of comparative inactivity and +some disappointment. Meares and Wilson returned at noon, reporting +the ice out beyond the Razor Back Island--no return to Cape Evans--no +pony snow-shoes--alas! I have decided to make a start to-morrow without +them. Late to-night Atkinson's foot was examined: it is bad and there's +no possibility of its getting right for some days. He must be left +behind--I've decided to leave Crean with him. Most luckily we now +have an extra tent and cooker. How the ponies are to be led is very +doubtful. Well, we must do the best that circumstances permit. Poor +Atkinson is in very low spirits. + +I sent Gran to the _Discovery_ hut with our last mail. He went on +ski and was nearly 4 hours away, making me rather anxious, as the +wind had sprung up and there was a strong surface-drift; he narrowly +missed the camp on returning and I am glad to get him back. + +Our food allowance seems to be very ample, and if we go on as at +present we shall thrive amazingly. + +_Thursday, February_ 2.--Camp 4. Made a start at last. Roused out at 7, +left camp about 10.30. Atkinson and Crean remained behind--very hard +on the latter. Atkinson suffering much pain and mental distress at +his condition--for the latter I fear I cannot have much sympathy, as +he ought to have reported his trouble long before. Crean will manage +to rescue some more of the forage from the Barrier edge--I am very +sorry for him. + +On starting with all the ponies (I leading Atkinson's) I saw with +some astonishment that the animals were not sinking deeply, and to my +pleased surprise we made good progress at once. This lasted for more +than an hour, then the surface got comparatively bad again--but still +most of the ponies did well with it, making 5 miles. Birdie's [10] +animal, however, is very heavy and flounders where the others walk +fairly easily. He is eager and tries to go faster as he flounders. As +a result he was brought in, in a lather. I inquired for our one set +of snow-shoes and found they had been left behind. The difference +in surface from what was expected makes one wonder whether better +conditions may not be expected during the night and in the morning, +when the temperatures are low. My suggestion that we should take to +night marching has met with general approval. Even if there is no +improvement in the surface the ponies will rest better during the +warmer hours and march better in the night. + +So we are resting in our tents, waiting to start to-night. Gran has +gone back for the snow-shoes--he volunteered good-naturedly--certainly +his expertness on ski is useful. + +Last night the temperature fell to -6° after the wind dropped--to-day +it is warm and calm. + +_Impressions_ + +The seductive folds of the sleeping-bag. + +The hiss of the primus and the fragrant steam of the cooker issuing +from the tent ventilator. + +The small green tent and the great white road. + +The whine of a dog and the neigh of our steeds. + +The driving cloud of powdered snow. + +The crunch of footsteps which break the surface crust. + +The wind blown furrows. + +The blue arch beneath the smoky cloud. + +The crisp ring of the ponies' hoofs and the swish of the following +sledge. + +The droning conversation of the march as driver encourages or chides +his horse. + +The patter of dog pads. + +The gentle flutter of our canvas shelter. + +Its deep booming sound under the full force of a blizzard. + +The drift snow like finest flour penetrating every hole and +corner--flickering up beneath one's head covering, pricking sharply +as a sand blast. + +The sun with blurred image peeping shyly through the wreathing drift +giving pale shadowless light. + +The eternal silence of the great white desert. Cloudy columns of snow +drift advancing from the south, pale yellow wraiths, heralding the +coming storm, blotting out one by one the sharp-cut lines of the land. + +The blizzard, Nature's protest--the crevasse, Nature's pitfall--that +grim trap for the unwary--no hunter could conceal his snare so +perfectly--the light rippled snow bridge gives no hint or sign of +the hidden danger, its position unguessable till man or beast is +floundering, clawing and struggling for foothold on the brink. + +The vast silence broken only by the mellow sounds of the marching +column. + +_Friday, February_ 3, 8 A.M.--Camp 5. Roused the camp at 10 P.M. and +we started marching at 12.30. At first surface bad, but gradually +improving. We had two short spells and set up temporary camp to feed +ourselves and ponies at 3.20. Started again at 5 and marched till +7. In all covered 9 miles. Surface seemed to have improved during the +last part of the march till just before camping time, when Bowers, who +was leading, plunged into soft snow. Several of the others following +close on his heels shared his fate, and soon three ponies were plunging +and struggling in a drift. Garrard's pony, which has very broad feet, +found hard stuff beyond and then my pony got round. Forde and Keohane +led round on comparatively hard ground well to the right, and the +entangled ponies were unharnessed and led round from patch to patch +till firmer ground was reached. Then we camped and the remaining loads +were brought in. Then came the _triumph of the snow-shoe_ again. We +put a set on Bowers' big pony--at first he walked awkwardly (for a +few minutes only) then he settled down, was harnessed to his load, +brought that in and another also--all over places into which he had +been plunging. If we had more of these shoes we could certainly put +them on seven out of eight of our ponies--and after a little I think +on the eighth, Oates' pony, as certainly the ponies so shod would draw +their loads over the soft snow patches without any difficulty. It is +trying to feel that so great a help to our work has been left behind +at the station. + +_Impressions_ + +It is pathetic to see the ponies floundering in the soft patches. The +first sink is a shock to them and seems to brace them to action. Thus +they generally try to rush through when they feel themselves +sticking. If the patch is small they land snorting and agitated on +the harder surface with much effort. And if the patch is extensive +they plunge on gamely until exhausted. Most of them after a bit +plunge forward with both forefeet together, making a series of jumps +and bringing the sledge behind them with jerks. This is, of course, +terribly tiring for them. Now and again they have to stop, and it is +horrid to see them half engulfed in the snow, panting and heaving from +the strain. Now and again one falls and lies trembling and temporarily +exhausted. It must be terribly trying for them, but it is wonderful +to see how soon they recover their strength. The quiet, lazy ponies +have a much better time than the eager ones when such troubles arise. + +The soft snow which gave the trouble is evidently in the hollow of one +of the big waves that continue through the pressure ridges at Cape +Crozier towards the Bluff. There are probably more of these waves, +though we crossed several during the last part of the march--so far +it seems that the soft parts are in patches only and do not extend +the whole length of the hollow. Our course is to pick a way with +the sure-footed beasts and keep the others back till the road has +been tested. + +What extraordinary uncertainties this work exhibits! Every day some +new fact comes to light--some new obstacle which threatens the gravest +obstruction. I suppose this is the reason which makes the game so +well worth playing. + +_Impressions_ + +The more I think of our sledging outfit the more certain I am that +we have arrived at something near a perfect equipment for civilised +man under such conditions. + +The border line between necessity and luxury is vague enough. + +We might save weight at the expense of comfort, but all possible saving +would amount to but a mere fraction of one's loads. Supposing it were +a grim struggle for existence and we were forced to drop everything +but the barest necessities, the total saving on this three weeks' +journey would be: + + + lbs. + Fuel for cooking 100 + Cooking apparatus 45 + Personal clothing, &c., say 100 + Tent, say 30 + Instruments, &c. 100 + --- + 375 + + +This is half of one of ten sledge loads, or about one-twentieth of +the total weight carried. If this is the only part of our weights +which under any conceivable circumstances could be included in +the category of luxuries, it follows the sacrifice to comfort is +negligible. Certainly we could not have increased our mileage by +making such a sacrifice. + +But beyond this it may be argued that we have an unnecessary amount +of food: 32 oz. per day per man is our allowance. I well remember +the great strait of hunger to which we were reduced in 1903 after +four or five weeks on 26 oz., and am perfectly confident that we +were steadily losing stamina at that time. Let it be supposed that +4 oz. per day per man might conceivably be saved. We have then a +3 lbs. a day saved in the camp, or 63 lbs. in the three weeks, or +1/100th part of our present loads. + +The smallness of the fractions on which the comfort and physical +well-being of the men depend is due to the fact of travelling with +animals whose needs are proportionately so much greater than those of +the men. It follows that it must be sound policy to keep the men of a +sledge party keyed up to a high pitch of well-fed physical condition +as long as they have animals to drag their loads. The time for short +rations, long marches and carefullest scrutiny of detail comes when +the men are dependent on their own traction efforts. + +6 P.M.--It has been blowing from the S.W., but the wind is dying +away--the sky is overcast--I write after 9 hours' sleep, the others +still peacefully slumbering. Work with animals means long intervals +of rest which are not altogether easily occupied. With our present +routine the dogs remain behind for an hour or more, trying to hit +off their arrival in the new camp soon after the ponies have been +picketed. The teams are pulling very well, Meares' especially. The +animals are getting a little fierce. Two white dogs in Meares' team +have been trained to attack strangers--they were quiet enough on board +ship, but now bark fiercely if anyone but their driver approaches the +team. They suddenly barked at me as I was pointing out the stopping +place to Meares, and Osman, my erstwhile friend, swept round and +nipped my leg lightly. I had no stick and there is no doubt that if +Meares had not been on the sledge the whole team, following the lead +of the white dogs, would have been at me in a moment. + +Hunger and fear are the only realities in dog life: an empty stomach +makes a fierce dog. There is something almost alarming in the sudden +fierce display of natural instinct in a tame creature. Instinct +becomes a blind, unreasoning, relentless passion. For instance the +dogs are as a rule all very good friends in harness: they pull side +by side rubbing shoulders, they walk over each other as they settle +to rest, relations seem quite peaceful and quiet. But the moment food +is in their thoughts, however, their passions awaken; each dog is +suspicious of his neighbour, and the smallest circumstance produces +a fight. With like suddenness their rage flares out instantaneously +if they get mixed up on the march--a quiet, peaceable team which has +been lazily stretching itself with wagging tails one moment will become +a set of raging, tearing, fighting devils the next. It is such stern +facts that resign one to the sacrifice of animal life in the effort +to advance such human projects as this. + +The Corner Camp. [Bearings: Obs. Hill < Bluff 86°; Obs. Hill < Knoll +80 1/2°; Mt. Terror N. 4 W.; Obs. Hill N. 69 W.] + +_Saturday, February_ 4, 8 A.M., 1911.--Camp 6. A satisfactory night +march covering 10 miles and some hundreds of yards. + +Roused party at 10, when it was blowing quite hard from the S.E., +with temperature below zero. It looked as though we should have a +pretty cold start, but by the end of breakfast the wind had dropped +and the sun shone forth. + +Started on a bad surface--ponies plunging a good deal for 2 miles or +so, Bowers' 'Uncle Bill' walking steadily on his snow-shoes. After this +the surface improved and the marching became steadier. We camped for +lunch after 5 miles. Going still better in the afternoon, except that +we crossed several crevasses. Oates' pony dropped his legs into two +of these and sank into one--oddly the other ponies escaped and we were +the last. Some 2 miles from our present position the cracks appeared to +cease, and in the last march we have got on to quite a hard surface on +which the ponies drag their loads with great ease. This part seems to +be swept by the winds which so continually sweep round Cape Crozier, +and therefore it is doubtful if it extends far to the south, but for +the present the going should be good. Had bright moonshine for the +march, but now the sky has clouded and it looks threatening to the +south. I think we may have a blizzard, though the wind is northerly +at present. + +The ponies are in very good form; 'James Pigg' remarkably recovered +from his lameness. + +8 P.M.--It is blowing a blizzard--wind moderate--temperature mild. + +_Impressions_ + +The deep, dreamless sleep that follows the long march and the +satisfying supper. + +The surface crust which breaks with a snap and sinks with a snap, +startling men and animals. + +Custom robs it of dread but not of interest to the dogs, who come to +imagine such sounds as the result of some strange freak of hidden +creatures. They become all alert and spring from side to side, +hoping to catch the creature. The hope clings in spite of continual +disappointment._13_ + +A dog must be either eating, asleep, or _interested_. His eagerness +to snatch at interest, to chain his attention to something, is almost +pathetic. The monotony of marching kills him. + +This is the fearfullest difficulty for the dog driver on a snow plain +without leading marks or objects in sight. The dog is almost human +in its demand for living interest, yet fatally less than human in +its inability to foresee. + +The dog lives for the day, the hour, even the moment. The human being +can live and support discomfort for a future. + +_Sunday, February_ 5.--Corner Camp, No. 6. The blizzard descended on +us at about 4 P.M. yesterday; for twenty-four hours it continued with +moderate wind, then the wind shifting slightly to the west came with +much greater violence. Now it is blowing very hard and our small frail +tent is being well tested. One imagines it cannot continue long as at +present, but remembers our proximity to Cape Crozier and the length +of the blizzards recorded in that region. As usual we sleep and eat, +conversing as cheerfully as may be in the intervals. There is scant +news of our small outside world--only a report of comfort and a rumour +that Bowers' pony has eaten one of its putties!! + +11 P.M.--Still blowing hard--a real blizzard now with dusty, floury +drift--two minutes in the open makes a white figure. What a wonderful +shelter our little tent affords! We have just had an excellent meal, +a quiet pipe, and fireside conversation within, almost forgetful for +the time of the howling tempest without;--now, as we lie in our bags +warm and comfortable, one can scarcely realise that 'hell' is on the +other side of the thin sheet of canvas that protects us. + +_Monday, February_ 6.--Corner Camp, No. 6. 6 P.M. The wind increased +in the night. It has been blowing very hard all day. No fun to be +out of the tent--but there are no shirkers with us. Oates has been +out regularly to feed the ponies; Meares and Wilson to attend to the +dogs--the rest of us as occasion required. The ponies are fairly +comfortable, though one sees now what great improvements could be +made to the horse clothes. The dogs ought to be quite happy. They are +curled snugly under the snow and at meal times issue from steaming warm +holes. The temperature is high, luckily. We are comfortable enough in +the tent, but it is terribly trying to the patience--over fifty hours +already and no sign of the end. The drifts about the camp are very +deep--some of the sledges almost covered. It is the old story, eat and +sleep, sleep and eat--and it's surprising how much sleep can be put in. + +_Tuesday, February_ 7, 5 P.M.--Corner Camp, No. 6. The wind kept on +through the night, commencing to lull at 8 A.M. At 10 A.M. one could +see an arch of clear sky to the S.W. and W., White Island, the Bluff, +and the Western Mountains clearly defined. The wind had fallen very +light and we were able to do some camp work, digging out sledges and +making the ponies more comfortable. At 11 a low dark cloud crept over +the southern horizon and there could be no doubt the wind was coming +upon us again. At 1 P.M. the drift was all about us once more and +the sun obscured. One began to feel that fortune was altogether too +hard on us--but now as I write the wind has fallen again to a gentle +breeze, the sun is bright, and the whole southern horizon clear. A +good sign is the freedom of the Bluff from cloud. One feels that we +ought to have a little respite for the next week, and now we must +do everything possible to tend and protect our ponies. All looks +promising for the night march. + +_Wednesday, February_ 8.--No. 7 Camp. Bearings: Lat. 78° 13'; +Mt. Terror N. 3 W.; Erebus 23 1/2 Terror 2nd peak from south; Pk. 2 +White Island 74 Terror; Castle Rk. 43 Terror. Night march just +completed. 10 miles, 200 yards. The ponies were much shaken by the +blizzard. One supposes they did not sleep--all look listless and two +or three are visibly thinner than before. But the worst case by far +is Forde's little pony; he was reduced to a weight little exceeding +400 lbs. on his sledge and caved in altogether on the second part of +the march. The load was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled +this in, leading the pony. The poor thing is a miserable scarecrow and +never ought to have been brought--it is the same pony that did so badly +in the ship. To-day it is very fine and bright. We are giving a good +deal of extra food to the animals, and my hope is that they will soon +pick up again--but they cannot stand more blizzards in their present +state. I'm afraid we shall not get very far, but at all hazards we +must keep the greater number of the ponies alive. The dogs are in +fine form--the blizzard has only been a pleasant rest _for them_. + +_Memo_.--Left No. 7 Camp. 2 bales of fodder. + +_Thursday, February_ 9.--No. 8 Camp. Made good 11 miles. Good night +march; surface excellent, but we are carrying very light loads +with the exception of one or two ponies. Forde's poor 'Misery' is +improving slightly. It is very keen on its feed. Its fate is much in +doubt. Keohane's 'Jimmy Pigg' is less lame than yesterday. In fact +there is a general buck up all round. + +It was a coldish march with light head wind and temperature 5° or 6° +below zero, but it was warm in the sun all yesterday and promises to be +warm again to-day. If such weather would hold there would be nothing to +fear for the ponies. We have come to the conclusion that the principal +cause of their discomfort is the comparative thinness of their coats. + +We get the well-remembered glorious views of the Western Mountains, +but now very distant. No crevasses to-day. I shall be surprised if +we pass outside all sign of them. + +One begins to see how things ought to be worked next year if the +ponies hold out. Ponies and dogs are losing their snow blindness. + +_Friday, February_ 10.--No. 9 Camp. 12 miles 200 yards. Cold march, +very chilly wind, overcast sky, difficult to see surface or course. + +Noticed sledges, ponies, &c., cast shadows all round. + +Surface very good and animals did splendidly. + +We came over some undulations during the early part of the march, +but the last part appeared quite flat. I think I remember observing +the same fact on our former trip. + +The wind veers and backs from S. to W. and even to N., coming in +gusts. The sastrugi are distinctly S.S.W. There isn't a shadow of +doubt that the prevailing wind is along the coast, taking the curve +of the deep bay south of the Bluff. + +The question now is: Shall we by going due southward keep this hard +surface? If so, we should have little difficulty in reaching the +Beardmore Glacier next year. + +We turn out of our sleeping-bags about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I +shout to the Soldier 'How are things?' There is a response suggesting +readiness, and soon after figures are busy amongst sledges and +ponies. It is chilling work for the fingers and not too warm for the +feet. The rugs come off the animals, the harness is put on, tents and +camp equipment are loaded on the sledges, nosebags filled for the next +halt; one by one the animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked +to the sledge. Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep such +a nervous creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt one feels +impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy fellows. Wilson +and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and ends. Still we wait: +the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few pony putties need +adjustment, a party has been slow striking their tent. With numbed +fingers on our horse's bridle and the animal striving to turn its +head from the wind one feels resentful. At last all is ready. One says +'All right, Bowers, go ahead,' and Birdie leads his big animal forward, +starting, as he continues, at a steady pace. The horses have got cold +and at the word they are off, the Soldier's and one or two others +with a rush. Finnesko give poor foothold on the slippery sastrugi, +and for a minute or two drivers have some difficulty in maintaining +the pace on their feet. Movement is warming, and in ten minutes the +column has settled itself to steady marching. + +The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or another +of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone. These are +the only real incidents of the march--for the rest it passes with +a steady tramp and slight variation of formation. The weaker ponies +drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon up in line again when +the first halt is made. We have come to a single halt in each half +march. Last night it was too cold to stop long and a very few minutes +found us on the go again. + +As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle. Then +at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his tent mates +lead still farther out to get the distance for the picket lines; +Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two other sledges of +our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we are drawn up in camp +formation. The picket lines are run across at right angles to the line +of advance and secured to the two sledges at each end. In a few minutes +ponies are on the lines covered, tents up again and cookers going. + +Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp, +have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks. They +try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after our own +and generally succeed well. The mid march halt runs into an hour to an +hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp forth again. We +generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and within an hour +and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags. Such is at present +the daily routine. At the long halt we do our best for our animals +by building snow walls and improving their rugs, &c. + +_Saturday, February_ 11.--No. 10 Camp. Bearings: Lat. 78° 47'. Bluff +S. 79 W.; Left extreme Bluff 65°; Bluff A White Island near Sound. 11 +miles. Covered 6 and 5 miles between halts. The surface has got a good +deal softer. In the next two marches we should know more certainly, +but it looks as though the conditions to the south will not be so +good as those we have had hitherto. + +Blossom, Evans' pony, has very small hoofs and found the going very +bad. It is less a question of load than one of walking, and there is +no doubt that some form of snow-shoe would help greatly. The question +is, what form? + +All the ponies were a little done when we stopped, but the weather +is favourable for a good rest; there is no doubt this night marching +is the best policy. + +Even the dogs found the surface more difficult to-day, but they are +pulling very well. Meares has deposed Osman in favour of Rabchick, +as the former was getting either very disobedient or very deaf. The +change appears excellent. Rabchick leads most obediently. + +Mem. for next year. A stout male bamboo shod with a spike to sound +for crevasses. + +_Sunday, February_ 12.--No. 11 Camp. 10 miles. Depot one Bale +of Fodder. Variation 150 E. South True = N. 30 E. by compass. The +surface is getting decidedly worse. The ponies sink quite deep every +now and again. We marched 6 1/4 miles before lunch, Blossom dropping +considerably behind. He lagged more on the second march and we halted +at 9 miles. Evans said he might be dragged for another mile and we +went on for that distance and camped. + +The sky was overcast: very dark and snowy looking in the south--very +difficult to steer a course. Mt. Discovery is in line with the south +end of the Bluff from the camp and we are near the 79th parallel. We +must get exact bearings for this is to be called the 'Bluff Camp' +and should play an important part in the future. Bearings: Bluff 36° +13'; Black Island Rht. Ex. I have decided to send E. Evans, Forde, +and Keohane back with the three weakest ponies which they have been +leading. The remaining five ponies which have been improving in +condition will go on for a few days at least, and we must see how +near we can come to the 80th parallel. + +To-night we have been making all the necessary arrangements for this +plan. Cherry-Garrard is to come into our tent. + +_Monday, February_ 13.--No. 12 Camp. 9 miles 150 yds. The wind got up +from the south with drift before we started yesterday--all appearance +of a blizzard. But we got away at 12.30 and marched through drift for +7 miles. It was exceedingly cold at first. Just at starting the sky +cleared in the wonderfully rapid fashion usual in these regions. We +saw that our camp had the southern edge of the base rock of the Bluff +in line with Mt. Discovery, and White Island well clear of the eastern +slope of Mt. Erebus. A fairly easy alignment to pick up. + +At lunch time the sky lightened up and the drift temporarily ceased. I +thought we were going to get in a good march, but on starting again +the drift came thicker than ever and soon the course grew wild. We +went on for 2 miles and then I decided to camp. So here we are with a +full blizzard blowing. I told Wilson I should camp if it grew thick, +and hope he and Meares have stopped where they were. They saw Evans +start back from No. 11 Camp before leaving. I trust they have got +in something of a march before stopping. This continuous bad weather +is exceedingly trying, but our own ponies are quite comfortable this +time, I'm glad to say. We have built them extensive snow walls behind +which they seem to get quite comfortable shelter. We are five in a +tent yet fairly comfortable. + +Our ponies' coats are certainly getting thicker and I see no reason +why we shouldn't get to the 80th parallel if only the weather would +give us a chance. + +Bowers is wonderful. Throughout the night he has worn no head-gear +but a common green felt hat kept on with a chin stay and affording no +cover whatever for the ears. His face and ears remain bright red. The +rest of us were glad to have thick Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have +never seen anyone so unaffected by the cold. To-night he remained +outside a full hour after the rest of us had got into the tent. He +was simply pottering about the camp doing small jobs to the sledges, +&c. Cherry-Garrard is remarkable because of his eyes. He can only see +through glasses and has to wrestle with all sorts of inconveniences +in consequence. Yet one could never guess it--for he manages somehow +to do more than his share of the work. + +_Tuesday, February_ 14.--13 Camp. 7 miles 650 yards. A disappointing +day: the weather had cleared, the night was fine though cold, +temperature well below zero with a keen S.W. breeze. Soon after the +start we struck very bad surface conditions. The ponies sank lower +than their hocks frequently and the soft patches of snow left by the +blizzard lay in sandy heaps, making great friction for the runners. We +struggled on, but found Gran with Weary Willy dropping to the rear. I +consulted Oates as to distance and he cheerfully proposed 15 miles +for the day! This piqued me somewhat and I marched till the sledge +meter showed 6 1/2 miles. By this time Weary Willy had dropped about +three-quarters of a mile and the dog teams were approaching. Suddenly +we heard much barking in the distance, and later it was evident that +something had gone wrong. Oates and then I hurried back. I met Meares, +who told me the dogs of his team had got out of hand and attacked +Weary Willy when they saw him fall. Finally they had been beaten off +and W.W. was being led without his sledge. W.W. had been much bitten, +but luckily I think not seriously: he appears to have made a gallant +fight, and bit and shook some of the dogs with his teeth. Gran did +his best, breaking his ski stick. Meares broke his dog stick--one way +and another the dogs must have had a rocky time, yet they seemed to +bear charmed lives when their blood is up, as apparently not one of +them has been injured. + +After lunch four of us went back and dragged up the load. It taught us +the nature of the surface more than many hours of pony leading!! The +incident is deplorable and the blame widespread. I find W.W.'s load +was much heavier than that of the other ponies. + +I blame myself for not supervising these matters more effectively +and for allowing W.W. to get so far behind. + +We started off again after lunch, but when we had done two-thirds of a +mile, W.W.'s condition made it advisable to halt. He has been given a +hot feed, a large snow wall, and some extra sacking--the day promises +to be quiet and warm for him, and one can only hope that these measures +will put him right again. But the whole thing is very annoying. + +_Memo_.--Arrangements for ponies. + +1. Hot bran or oat mashes. + +2. Clippers for breaking wires of bales. + +3. Pickets for horses. + +4. Lighter ponies to take 10 ft. sledges? + +The surface is so crusty and friable that the question of snow-shoes +again becomes of great importance. + +All the sastrugi are from S.W. by S. to S.W. and all the wind that +we have experienced in this region--there cannot be a doubt that the +wind sweeps up the coast at all seasons. + +A point has arisen as to the deposition. David [11] called the crusts +seasonal. This must be wrong; they mark blizzards, but after each +blizzard fresh crusts are formed only over the patchy heaps left by the +blizzard. A blizzard seems to leave heaps which cover anything from +one-sixth to one-third of the whole surface--such heaps presumably +turn hollows into mounds with fresh hollows between--these are filled +in turn by ensuing blizzards. If this is so, the only way to get at +the seasonal deposition would be to average the heaps deposited and +multiply this by the number of blizzards in the year. + +_Monday, February_ 15.--14 Camp. 7 miles 775 yards. The surface was +wretched to-day, the two drawbacks of yesterday (the thin crusts which +let the ponies through and the sandy heaps which hang on the runners) +if anything exaggerated. + +Bowers' pony refused work at intervals for the first time. His hind +legs sink very deep. Weary Willy is decidedly better. The Soldier +takes a gloomy view of everything, but I've come to see that this is +a characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays every attention to +the weaker horses. + +We had frequent halts on the march, but managed 4 miles before lunch +and 3 1/2 after. + +The temperature was -15° at the lunch camp. It was cold sitting in +the tent waiting for the ponies to rest. The thermometer is now -7°, +but there is a bright sun and no wind, which makes the air feel +quite comfortable: one's socks and finnesko dry well. Our provision +allowance is working out very well. In fact all is well with us except +the condition of the ponies. The more I see of the matter the more +certain I am that we must save all the ponies to get better value out +of them next year. It would have been ridiculous to have worked some +out this year as the Soldier wished. Even now I feel we went too far +with the first three. + +One thing is certain. A good snow-shoe would be worth its weight in +gold on this surface, and if we can get something really practical +we ought to greatly increase our distances next year. + +_Mems_.--Storage of biscuit next year, lashing cases on sledges. + +Look into sledgemeter. + +Picket lines for ponies. + +Food tanks to be size required. + +Two sledges altered to take steel runners. + +Stowage of pony food. Enough sacks for ready bags. + +_Thursday, February_ 16.--6 miles 1450 yards. 15 Camp. The surface +a good deal better, but the ponies running out. Three of the five +could go on without difficulty. Bowers' pony might go on a bit, +but Weary Willy is a good deal done up, and to push him further +would be to risk him unduly, so to-morrow we turn. The temperature +on the march to-night fell to -21° with a brisk S.W. breeze. Bowers +started out as usual in his small felt hat, ears uncovered. Luckily +I called a halt after a mile and looked at him. His ears were quite +white. Cherry and I nursed them back whilst the patient seemed to +feel nothing but intense surprise and disgust at the mere fact of +possessing such unruly organs. Oates' nose gave great trouble. I got +frostbitten on the cheek lightly, as also did Cherry-Garrard. + +Tried to march in light woollen mits to great discomfort. + +_Friday, February_ 17.--Camp 15. Lat. 79° 28 1/2' S. It clouded over +yesterday--the temperature rose and some snow fell. Wind from the +south, cold and biting, as we turned out. We started to build the +depot. I had intended to go on half a march and return to same camp, +leaving Weary Willy to rest, but under the circumstances did not like +to take risk. + +Stores left in depôt: + +Lat. 79° 29'. Depot. + + + lbs. + + 245 7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit + 12 2 days' provision bags for 1 unit + 8 8 weeks' tea + 31 6 weeks' extra butter + 176 176 lbs. biscuit (7 weeks full biscuit) + 85 8 1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks oil for 1 unit) + 850 5 sacks of oats + 424 4 bales of fodder + 250 Tank of dog biscuit + 100 2 cases of biscuit + ---- + 2181 + + 1 skein white line + 1 set breast harness + 2 12 ft. sledges + 2 pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks + 1 Minimum Thermometer + 1 tin Rowntree cocoa + 1 tin matches + + +With packing we have landed considerably over a ton of stuff. It is a +pity we couldn't get to 80°, but as it is we shall have a good leg up +for next year and can at least feed the ponies full up to this point. + +Our Camp 15 is very well marked, I think. Besides the flagstaff and +black flag we have piled biscuit boxes, filled and empty, to act as +reflectors--secured tea tins to the sledges, which are planted upright +in the snow. The depot cairn is more than 6 ft. above the surface, +very solid and large; then there are the pony protection walls; +altogether it should show up for many miles. + +I forgot to mention that looking back on the 15th we saw a cairn +built on a camp 12 1/2 miles behind--it was miraged up. + +It seems as though some of our party will find spring journeys pretty +trying. Oates' nose is always on the point of being frostbitten; +Meares has a refractory toe which gives him much trouble--this is +the worst prospect for summit work. I have been wondering how I shall +stick the summit again, this cold spell gives ideas. I think I shall +be all right, but one must be prepared for a pretty good doing. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +Adventure and Peril + +_Saturday, February_ 18.--Camp 12. North 22 miles 1996 yards. I +scattered some oats 50 yards east of depôt. [12] The minimum +thermometer showed -16° when we left camp: _inform Simpson!_ + +The ponies started off well, Gran leading my pony with Weary Willy +behind, the Soldier leading his with Cherry's behind, and Bowers +steering course as before with a light sledge. [13] + +We started half an hour later, soon overtook the ponies, and luckily +picked up a small bag of oats which they had dropped. We went on for +10 3/4 miles and stopped for lunch. After lunch to our astonishment +the ponies appeared, going strong. They were making for a camp some +miles farther on, and meant to remain there. I'm very glad to have +seen them making the pace so well. They don't propose to stop for +lunch at all but to march right through 10 or 12 miles a day. I think +they will have little difficulty in increasing this distance. + +For the dogs the surface has been bad, and one or another of us on +either sledge has been running a good part of the time. But we have +covered 23 miles: three marches out. We have four days' food for them +and ought to get in very easily. + +As we camp late the temperature is evidently very low and there is a +low drift. Conditions are beginning to be severe on the Barrier and +I shall be glad to get the ponies into more comfortable quarters. + +_Sunday, February_ 19.--Started 10 P.M. Camped 6.30. Nearly 26 +miles to our credit. The dogs went very well and the surface became +excellent after the first 5 or 6 miles. At the Bluff Camp, No. 11, +we picked up Evans' track and found that he must have made excellent +progress. No. 10 Camp was much snowed up: I should imagine our light +blizzard was severely felt along this part of the route. We must look +out to-morrow for signs of Evans being 'held up.' + +The old tracks show better here than on the softer surface. During this +journey both ponies and dogs have had what under ordinary circumstances +would have been a good allowance of food, yet both are desperately +hungry. Both eat their own excrement. With the ponies it does not +seem so horrid, as there must be a good deal of grain, &c., which +is not fully digested. It is the worst side of dog driving. All the +rest is diverting. The way in which they keep up a steady jog trot +for hour after hour is wonderful. Their legs seem steel springs, +fatigue unknown--for at the end of a tiring march any unusual +incident will arouse them to full vigour. Osman has been restored +to leadership. It is curious how these leaders come off and go off, +all except old Stareek, who remains as steady as ever. + +We are all acting like seasoned sledge travellers now, such is the +force of example. Our tent is up and cooker going in the shortest +time after halt, and we are able to break camp in exceptionally good +time. Cherry-Garrard is cook. He is excellent, and is quickly learning +all the tips for looking after himself and his gear. + +What a difference such care makes is apparent now, but was more so when +he joined the tent with all his footgear iced up, whilst Wilson and +I nearly always have dry socks and finnesko to put on. This is only +a point amongst many in which experience gives comfort. Every minute +spent in keeping one's gear dry and free of snow is very well repaid. + +_Monday, February_ 20.--29 miles. Lunch. Excellent run on hard +wind-swept surface--_covered nearly seventeen miles_. Very cold at +starting and during march. Suddenly wind changed and temperature rose +so that at the moment of stopping for final halt it appeared quite +warm, almost sultry. On stopping found we had covered 29 miles, +some 35 statute miles. The dogs are weary but by no means played +out--during the last part of the journey they trotted steadily with a +wonderfully tireless rhythm. I have been off the sledge a good deal +and trotting for a good many miles, so should sleep well. E. Evans +has left a bale of forage at Camp 8 and has not taken on the one which +he might have taken from the depôt--facts which show that his ponies +must have been going strong. I hope to find them safe and sound the +day after to-morrow. + +We had the most wonderfully beautiful sky effects on the march with +the sun circling low on the southern horizon. Bright pink clouds +hovered overhead on a deep grey-blue background. Gleams of bright +sunlit mountains appeared through the stratus. + +Here it is most difficult to predict what is going to happen. Sometimes +the southern sky looks dark and ominous, but within half an hour all +has changed--the land comes and goes as the veil of stratus lifts and +falls. It seems as though weather is made here rather than dependent +on conditions elsewhere. It is all very interesting. + +_Tuesday, February_ 21.--New Camp about 12 miles from Safety Camp. 15 +1/2 miles. We made a start as usual about 10 P.M. The light was +good at first, but rapidly grew worse till we could see little of +the surface. The dogs showed signs of wearying. About an hour and a +half after starting we came on mistily outlined pressure ridges. We +were running by the sledges. Suddenly Wilson shouted 'Hold on to +the sledge,' and I saw him slip a leg into a crevasse. I jumped to +the sledge, but saw nothing. Five minutes after, as the teams were +trotting side by side, the middle dogs of our team disappeared. In +a moment the whole team were sinking--two by two we lost sight of +them, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman the leader exerted +all his great strength and kept a foothold--it was wonderful to see +him. The sledge stopped and we leapt aside. The situation was clear +in another moment. We had been actually travelling along the bridge +of a crevasse, the sledge had stopped on it, whilst the dogs hung +in their harness in the abyss, suspended between the sledge and +the leading dog. Why the sledge and ourselves didn't follow the +dogs we shall never know. I think a fraction of a pound of added +weight must have taken us down. As soon as we grasped the position, +we hauled the sledge clear of the bridge and anchored it. Then we +peered into the depths of the crack. The dogs were howling dismally, +suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions and evidently terribly +frightened. Two had dropped out of their harness, and we could see +them indistinctly on a snow bridge far below. The rope at either +end of the chain had bitten deep into the snow at the side of the +crevasse, and with the weight below, it was impossible to move it. By +this time Wilson and Cherry-Garrard, who had seen the accident, +had come to our assistance. At first things looked very bad for our +poor team, and I saw little prospect of rescuing them. I had luckily +inquired about the Alpine rope before starting the march, and now +Cherry-Garrard hurriedly brought this most essential aid. It takes +one a little time to make plans under such sudden circumstances, +and for some minutes our efforts were rather futile. We could get +not an inch on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope, +which was binding Osman to the snow with a throttling pressure. Then +thought became clearer. We unloaded our sledge, putting in safety our +sleeping-bags with the tent and cooker. Choking sounds from Osman made +it clear that the pressure on him must soon be relieved. I seized the +lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the tent poles across the +crevasse, and with Meares managed to get a few inches on the leading +line; this freed Osman, whose harness was immediately cut. + +Then securing the Alpine rope to the main trace we tried to haul up +together. One dog came up and was unlashed, but by this time the rope +had cut so far back at the edge that it was useless to attempt to get +more of it. But we could now unbend the sledge and do that for which +we should have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the +gap and work from it. We managed to do this, our fingers constantly +numbed. Wilson held on to the anchored trace whilst the rest of us +laboured at the leader end. The leading rope was very small and I was +fearful of its breaking, so Meares was lowered down a foot or two to +secure the Alpine rope to the leading end of the trace; this done, +the work of rescue proceeded in better order. Two by two we hauled +the animals up to the sledge and one by one cut them out of their +harness. Strangely the last dogs were the most difficult, as they +were close under the lip of the gap, bound in by the snow-covered +rope. Finally, with a gasp we got the last poor creature on to firm +snow. We had recovered eleven of the thirteen._13a_ + +Then I wondered if the last two could not be got, and we paid down the +Alpine rope to see if it was long enough to reach the snow bridge on +which they were coiled. The rope is 90 feet, and the amount remaining +showed that the depth of the bridge was about 65 feet. I made a +bowline and the others lowered me down. The bridge was firm and I got +hold of both dogs, which were hauled up in turn to the surface. Then +I heard dim shouts and howls above. Some of the rescued animals had +wandered to the second sledge, and a big fight was in progress. All +my rope-tenders had to leave to separate the combatants; but they +soon returned, and with some effort I was hauled to the surface. + +All is well that ends well, and certainly this was a most surprisingly +happy ending to a very serious episode. We felt we must have +refreshment, so camped and had a meal, congratulating ourselves on +a really miraculous escape. If the sledge had gone down Meares and +I _must_ have been badly injured, if not killed outright. The dogs +are wonderful, but have had a terrible shaking--three of them are +passing blood and have more or less serious internal injuries. Many +were held up by a thin thong round the stomach, writhing madly +to get free. One dog better placed in its harness stretched its +legs full before and behind and just managed to claw either side +of the gap--it had continued attempts to climb throughout, giving +vent to terrified howls. Two of the animals hanging together had +been fighting at intervals when they swung into any position which +allowed them to bite one another. The crevasse for the time being +was an inferno, and the time must have been all too terribly long for +the wretched creatures. It was twenty minutes past three when we had +completed the rescue work, and the accident must have happened before +one-thirty. Some of the animals must have been dangling for over an +hour. I had a good opportunity of examining the crack. + +The section seemed such as I have shown. It narrowed towards the east +and widened slightly towards the west. In this direction there were +curious curved splinters; below the snow bridge on which I stood the +opening continued, but narrowing, so that I think one could not have +fallen many more feet without being wedged. Twice I have owed safety +to a snow bridge, and it seems to me that the chance of finding some +obstruction or some saving fault in the crevasse is a good one, +but I am far from thinking that such a chance can be relied upon, +and it would be an awful situation to fall beyond the limits of the +Alpine rope. + +We went on after lunch, and very soon got into soft snow and regular +surface where crevasses are most unlikely to occur. We have pushed on +with difficulty, for the dogs are badly cooked and the surface tries +them. We are all pretty done, but luckily the weather favours us. A +sharp storm from the south has been succeeded by ideal sunshine which +is flooding the tent as I write. It is the calmest, warmest day we +have had since we started sledging. We are only about 12 miles from +Safety Camp, and I trust we shall push on without accident to-morrow, +but I am anxious about some of the dogs. We shall be lucky indeed if +all recover. + +My companions to-day were excellent; Wilson and Cherry-Garrard if +anything the most intelligently and readily helpful. + +I begin to think that there is no avoiding the line of cracks running +from the Bluff to Cape Crozier, but my hope is that the danger does +not extend beyond a mile or two, and that the cracks are narrower +on the pony road to Corner Camp. If eight ponies can cross without +accident I do not think there can be great danger. Certainly we must +rigidly adhere to this course on all future journeys. We must try and +plot out the danger line. [14] I begin to be a little anxious about +the returning ponies. + +I rather think the dogs are being underfed--they have weakened badly +in the last few days--more than such work ought to entail. Now they +are absolutely ravenous. + +Meares has very dry feet. Whilst we others perspire freely and our +skin remains pink and soft his gets horny and scaly. He amused us +greatly to-night by scraping them. The sound suggested the whittling +of a hard wood block and the action was curiously like an attempt to +shape the feet to fit the finnesko! + + +Summary of Marches Made on the Depôt Journey + +Distances in Geographical Miles. Variation 152 E. + + + + m. yds. +Safety No. 3 to 4 E. 4 2000 + S. 64 E. 4 500 | + 4 to 5 S. 77 E. 1 312 | 9.359 + S. 60 E. 3 1575 | + 5 to 6 S. 48 E. 10 270 Var. 149 1/2 E. +Corner 6 to 7 S. 10 145 + 7 to 8 S. ? 11 198 + 8 to 9 S. 12 325 + 9 to 10 S. 11 118 +Bluff Camp 10 to 11 S. 10 226 Var. 152 1/2 E. + 11 to 12 S. 9 150 + 12 to 13 S. 7 650 + 13 to 14 S. 7 Bowers 775 + 14 to 15 S. 8 1450 + --- ---- + 111 610 + +Return 17th-18th + + 15 to 12 N. 22 1994 + 18th-19th 12 + to midway + between 9 & 10 N. 48 1825 + 19th-20th + Lunch 8 Camp N. 65 1720 + 19th-20th + 7 Camp N. 77 1820 + 20th-21st N. 30 to 35 W. 93 950 + 21st-22nd + Safety Camp N. & W. 107 1125 + + +_Wednesday, February_ 22.--Safety Camp. Got away at 10 again: surface +fairly heavy: dogs going badly. + +The dogs are as thin as rakes; they are ravenous and very tired. I feel +this should not be, and that it is evident that they are underfed. The +ration must be increased next year and we _must_ have some properly +thought out diet. The biscuit alone is not good enough. Meares is +excellent to a point, but ignorant of the conditions here. One thing +is certain, the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with men +sitting on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the teams and +the Russian custom must be dropped. Meares, I think, rather imagined +himself racing to the Pole and back on a dog sledge. This journey +has opened his eyes a good deal. + +We reached Safety Camp (dist. 14 miles) at 4.30 A.M.; found Evans and +his party in excellent health, but, alas! with only ONE pony. As far as +I can gather Forde's pony only got 4 miles back from the Bluff Camp; +then a blizzard came on, and in spite of the most tender care from +Forde the pony sank under it. Evans says that Forde spent hours with +the animal trying to keep it going, feeding it, walking it about; +at last he returned to the tent to say that the poor creature had +fallen; they all tried to get it on its feet again but their efforts +were useless. It couldn't stand, and soon after it died. + +Then the party marched some 10 miles, but the blizzard had had a +bad effect on Blossom--it seemed to have shrivelled him up, and +now he was terribly emaciated. After this march he could scarcely +move. Evans describes his efforts as pathetic; he got on 100 yards, +then stopped with legs outstretched and nose to the ground. They rested +him, fed him well, covered him with rugs; but again all efforts were +unavailing. The last stages came with painful detail. So Blossom is +also left on the Southern Road. + +The last pony, James Pigg, as he is called, has thriven amazingly--of +course great care has been taken with him and he is now getting full +feed and very light work, so he ought to do well. The loss is severe; +but they were the two oldest ponies of our team and the two which +Oates thought of least use. + +Atkinson and Crean have departed, leaving no trace--not even a note. + +Crean had carried up a good deal of fodder, and some seal meat was +found buried. + +After a few hours' sleep we are off for Hut Point. + +There are certain points in night marching, if only for the glorious +light effects which the coming night exhibits. + +_Wednesday, February_ 22.--10 P.M. Safety Camp. Turned out at 11 this +morning after 4 hours' sleep. + +Wilson, Meares, Evans, Cherry-Garrard, and I went to Hut Point. Found +a great enigma. The hut was cleared and habitable--but no one was +there. A pencil line on the wall said that a bag containing a mail +was inside, but no bag could be found. We puzzled much, then finally +decided on the true solution, viz. that Atkinson and Crean had gone +towards Safety Camp as we went to Hut Point--later we saw their sledge +track leading round on the sea ice. Then we returned towards Safety +Camp and endured a very bad hour in which we could see the two bell +tents but not the domed. It was an enormous relief to find the dome +securely planted, as the ice round Cape Armitage is evidently very +weak; I have never seen such enormous water holes off it. + +But every incident of the day pales before the startling contents of +the mail bag which Atkinson gave me--a letter from Campbell setting +out his doings and the finding of Amundsen established in the Bay +of Whales. + +One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper, as +well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as though +this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for the honour +of the country without fear or panic. + +There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace +to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles--I never +thought he could have got so many dogs safely to the ice. His plan for +running them seems excellent. But above and beyond all he can start +his journey early in the season--an impossible condition with ponies. + +The ice is still in at the Glacier Tongue: a very late date--it +looks as though it will not break right back this season, but off +Cape Armitage it is so thin that I doubt if the ponies could safely +be walked round. + +_Thursday, February_ 23.--Spent the day preparing sledges, &c., for +party to meet Bowers at Corner Camp. It was blowing and drifting and +generally uncomfortable. Wilson and Meares killed three seals for +the dogs. + +_Friday, February_ 24.--Roused out at 6. Started marching at 9. Self, +Crean, and Cherry-Garrard one sledge and tent; Evans, Atkinson, Forde, +second sledge and tent; Keohane leading his pony. We pulled on ski +in the forenoon; the second sledge couldn't keep up, so we changed +about for half the march. In the afternoon we pulled on foot. On the +whole I thought the labour greater on foot, so did Crean, showing +the advantage of experience. + +There is no doubt that very long days' work could be done by men in +hard condition on ski. + +The hanging back of the second sledge was mainly a question of +condition, but to some extent due to the sledge. We have a 10 ft., +whilst the other party has a 12 ft.; the former is a distinct advantage +in this case. + +It has been a horrid day. We woke to find a thick covering of sticky +ice crystals on everything--a frost _rime_. I cleared my ski before +breakfast arid found more on afterwards. There was the suggestion +of an early frosty morning at home--such a morning as develops +into a beautiful sunshiny day; but in our case, alas! such hopes +were shattered: it was almost damp, with temperature near zero and a +terribly bad light for travelling. In the afternoon Erebus and Terror +showed up for a while. Now it is drifting hard with every sign of +a blizzard--a beastly night. This marching is going to be very good +for our condition and I shall certainly keep people at it. + +_Saturday, February_ 25.--Fine bright day--easy marching--covered 9 +miles and a bit yesterday and the same to-day. Should reach Corner +Camp before lunch to-morrow. + +Turned out at 3 A.M. and saw a short black line on the horizon +towards White Island. Thought it an odd place for a rock exposure +and then observed movement in it. Walked 1 1/2 miles towards it and +made certain that it was Oates, Bowers, and the ponies. They seemed +to be going very fast and evidently did not see our camp. To-day we +have come on their tracks, and I fear there are only four ponies left. + +James Pigg, our own pony, limits the length of our marches. The +men haulers could go on much longer, and we all like pulling on +ski. Everyone must be practised in this. + +_Sunday, February_ 26.--Marched on Corner Camp, but second main party +found going very hard and eventually got off their ski and pulled +on foot. James Pigg also found the surface bad, so we camped and had +lunch after doing 3 miles. + +Except for our tent the camp routine is slack. Shall have to tell +people that we are out on business, not picnicking. It was another +3 miles to depot after lunch. Found signs of Bowers' party having +camped there and glad to see five pony walls. Left six full weeks' +provision: 1 bag of oats, 3/4 of a bale of fodder. Then Cherry-Garrard, +Crean, and I started for home, leaving the others to bring the pony +by slow stages. We covered 6 1/4 miles in direct line, then had some +tea and marched another 8. We must be less than 10 miles from Safety +Camp. Pitched tent at 10 P.M., very dark for cooking. + +_Monday, February_ 27.--Awoke to find it blowing a howling +blizzard--absolutely confined to tent at present--to step outside is to +be covered with drift in a minute. We have managed to get our cooking +things inside and have had a meal. Very anxious about the ponies--am +wondering where they can be. The return party [15] has had two days +and may have got them into some shelter--but more probably they were +not expecting this blow--I wasn't. The wind is blowing force 8 or 9; +heavy gusts straining the tent; the temperature is evidently quite +low. This is poor luck. + +_Tuesday, February_ 28.--Safety Camp. Packed up at 6 A.M. and marched +into Safety Camp. Found everyone very cold and depressed. Wilson +and Meares had had continuous bad weather since we left, Bowers and +Oates since their arrival. The blizzard had raged for two days. The +animals looked in a sorry condition but all were alive. The wind blew +keen and cold from the east. There could be no advantage in waiting +here, and soon all arrangements were made for a general shift to Hut +Point. Packing took a long time. The snowfall had been prodigious, +and parts of the sledges were 3 or 4 feet under drift. About 4 o'clock +the two dog teams got safely away. Then the pony party prepared to +go. As the clothes were stripped from the ponies the ravages of the +blizzard became evident. The animals without exception were terribly +emaciated, and Weary Willy was in a pitiable condition. + +The plan was for the ponies to follow the dog tracks, our small party +to start last and get in front of the ponies on the sea ice. I was +very anxious about the sea ice passage owing to the spread of the +water holes. + +The ponies started, but Weary Willy, tethered last without a load, +immediately fell down. We tried to get him up and he made efforts, +but was too exhausted. + +Then we rapidly reorganised. Cherry-Garrard and Crean went on whilst +Oates and Gran stayed with me. We made desperate efforts to save the +poor creature, got him once more on his legs and gave him a hot oat +mash. Then after a wait of an hour Oates led him off, and we packed +the sledge and followed on ski; 500 yards away from the camp the poor +creature fell again and I felt it was the last effort. We camped, +built a snow wall round him, and did all we possibly could to get him +on his feet. Every effort was fruitless, though the poor thing made +pitiful struggles. Towards midnight we propped him up as comfortably +as we could and went to bed. + +_Wednesday, March_ 1, A.M.--Our pony died in the night. It is hard +to have got him back so far only for this. It is clear that these +blizzards are terrible for the poor animals. Their coats are not good, +but even with the best of coats it is certain they would lose condition +badly if caught in one, and we cannot afford to lose condition at +the beginning of a journey. It makes a late start _necessary for +next year_. + +Well, we have done our best and bought our experience at a heavy +cost. Now every effort must be bent on saving the remaining animals, +and it will be good luck if we get four back to Cape Evans, or even +three. Jimmy Pigg may have fared badly; Bowers' big pony is in a bad +way after that frightful blizzard. I cannot remember such a bad storm +in February or March: the temperature was -7°. + + +Bowers Incident + +I note the events of the night of March 1 whilst they are yet fresh +in my memory. + +_Thursday, March_ 2, A.M.--The events of the past 48 hours bid fair +to wreck the expedition, and the only one comfort is the miraculous +avoidance of loss of life. We turned out early yesterday, Oates, +Gran, and I, after the dismal night of our pony's death, and pulled +towards the forage depot [16] on ski. As we approached, the sky +looked black and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes +loomed out ahead. At first I thought it one of the strange optical +illusions common in this region--but as we neared the depot all doubt +was dispelled. The sea was full of broken pieces of Barrier edge. My +thoughts flew to the ponies and dogs, and fearful anxieties assailed +my mind. We turned to follow the sea edge and suddenly discovered a +working crack. We dashed over this and slackened pace again after a +quarter of a mile. Then again cracks appeared ahead and we increased +pace as much as possible, not slackening again till we were in line +between the Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile my first thought +was to warn Evans. We set up tent, and Gran went to the depot with +a note as Oates and I disconsolately thought out the situation. I +thought to myself that if either party had reached safety either on +the Barrier or at Hut Point they would immediately have sent a warning +messenger to Safety Camp. By this time the messenger should have been +with us. Some half-hour passed, and suddenly with a 'Thank God!' I +made certain that two specks in the direction of Pram Point were human +beings. I hastened towards them and found they were Wilson and Meares, +who had led the homeward way with the dog teams. They were astonished +to see me--they said they feared the ponies were adrift on the sea +ice--they had seen them with glasses from Observation Hill. They +thought I was with them. They had hastened out without breakfast: +we made them cocoa and discussed the gloomiest situation. Just +after cocoa Wilson discovered a figure making rapidly for the depot +from the west. Gran was sent off again to intercept. It proved to +be Crean--he was exhausted and a little incoherent. The ponies had +camped at 2.30 A.M. on the sea ice well beyond the seal crack on the +previous night. In the middle of the night... + +_Friday, March_ 3, A.M.--I was interrupted when writing yesterday +and continue my story this morning.... In the middle of the night +at 4.30 Bowers got out of the tent and discovered the ice had broken +all round him: a crack ran under the picketing line, and one pony had +disappeared. They had packed with great haste and commenced jumping +the ponies from floe to floe, then dragging the loads over after--the +three men must have worked splendidly and fearlessly. At length they +had worked their way to heavier floes lying near the Barrier edge, +and at one time thought they could get up, but soon discovered that +there were gaps everywhere off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma +Crean volunteering was sent off to try to reach me. The sea was like +a cauldron at the time of the break up, and killer whales were putting +their heads up on all sides. Luckily they did not frighten the ponies. + +He travelled a great distance over the sea ice, leaping from floe +to floe, and at last found a thick floe from which with help of ski +stick he could climb the Barrier face. It was a desperate venture, +but luckily successful. + +As soon as I had digested Crean's news I sent Gran back to Hut Point +with Wilson and Meares and started with my sledge, Crean, and Oates +for the scene of the mishap. We stopped at Safety Camp to load some +provisions and oil and then, marching carefully round, approached +the ice edge. To my joy I caught sight of the lost party. We got our +Alpine rope and with its help dragged the two men to the surface. I +pitched camp at a safe distance from the edge and then we all started +salvage work. The ice had ceased to drift and lay close and quiet +against the Barrier edge. We got the men at 5.30 P.M. and all the +sledges and effects on to the Barrier by 4 A.M. As we were getting +up the last loads the ice showed signs of drifting off, and we saw +it was hopeless to try and move the ponies. The three poor beasts had +to be left on their floe for the moment, well fed. None of our party +had had sleep the previous night and all were dog tired. I decided we +must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30 yesterday morning. Before +breakfast we discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried +to anchor their floe with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had +drawn. It was a sad moment. At breakfast we decided to pack and +follow the Barrier edge: this was the position when I last wrote, +but the interruption came when Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, +announced that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N.W. We +packed and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down +to the poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of +life. Then there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier +edge and discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable +way to land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought, +tried to leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually +we had to kill him--it was awful. I recalled all hands and pointed +out my road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and worked +their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with them on the +same track. Meanwhile Cherry and I dug a road at the Barrier edge. We +saved one pony; for a time I thought we should get both, but Bowers' +poor animal slipped at a jump and plunged into the water: we dragged +him out on some brash ice--killer whales all about us in an intense +state of excitement. The poor animal couldn't rise, and the only +merciful thing was to kill it. These incidents were too terrible. + +At 5 P.M. we sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to the +one I had first pitched. Even here it seemed unsafe, so I walked +nearly two miles to discover cracks: I could find none, and we turned +in about midnight. + +So here we are ready to start our sad journey to Hut Point. Everything +out of joint with the loss of the ponies, but mercifully with all +the party alive and well. + +_Saturday, March_ 4, A.M.--We had a terrible pull at the start +yesterday, taking four hours to cover some three miles to march on the +line between Safety Camp and Fodder Depot. From there Bowers went to +Safety Camp and found my notes to Evans had been taken. We dragged on +after lunch to the place where my tent had been pitched when Wilson +first met me and where we had left our ski and other loads. All these +had gone. We found sledge tracks leading in towards the land and +at length marks of a pony's hoofs. We followed these and some ski +tracks right into the land, coming at length to the highest of the +Pram Point ridges. I decided to camp here, and as we unpacked I saw +four figures approaching. They proved to be Evans and his party. They +had ascended towards Castle Rock on Friday and found a good camp site +on top of the Ridge. They were in good condition. It was a relief +to hear they had found a good road up. They went back to their camp +later, dragging one of our sledges and a light load. Atkinson is to +go to Hut Point this morning to tell Wilson about us. The rest ought +to meet us and help us up the hill--just off to march up the hill, +hoping to avoid trouble with the pony._14_ + +_Sunday, March_ 5, A.M.--Marched up the hill to Evans' Camp under +Castle Rock. Evans' party came to meet us and helped us up with the +loads--it was a steep, stiff pull; the pony was led up by Oates. As +we camped for lunch Atkinson and Gran appeared, the former having +been to Hut Point to carry news of the relief. I sent Gran on to +Safety Camp to fetch some sugar and chocolate, left Evans, Oates, and +Keohane in camp, and marched on with remaining six to Hut Point. It +was calm at Evans' Camp, but blowing hard on the hill and harder at +Hut Point. Found the hut in comparative order and slept there. + + + +CHAPTER VII + +At Discovery Hut + +_Monday, March_ 6, A.M.--Roused the hands at 7.30. Wilson, Bowers, +Garrard, and I went out to Castle Rock. We met Evans just short of +his camp and found the loads had been dragged up the hill. Oates +and Keohane had gone back to lead on the ponies. At the top of the +ridge we harnessed men and ponies to the sledges and made rapid +progress on a good surface towards the hut. The weather grew very +thick towards the end of the march, with all signs of a blizzard. We +unharnessed the ponies at the top of Ski slope--Wilson guided them +down from rock patch to rock patch; the remainder of us got down a +sledge and necessaries over the slope. It is a ticklish business to +get the sledge along the ice foot, which is now all blue ice ending +in a drop to the sea. One has to be certain that the party has good +foothold. All reached the hut in safety. The ponies have admirably +comfortable quarters under the verandah. + +After some cocoa we fetched in the rest of the dogs from the Gap and +another sledge from the hill. It had ceased to snow and the wind had +gone down slightly. Turned in with much relief to have all hands and +the animals safely housed. + +_Tuesday, March_ 7, A.M.--Yesterday went over to Pram Point with +Wilson. We found that the corner of sea ice in Pram Point Bay had +not gone out--it was crowded with seals. We killed a young one and +carried a good deal of the meat and some of the blubber back with us. + +Meanwhile the remainder of the party had made some progress towards +making the hut more comfortable. In the afternoon we all set to in +earnest and by supper time had wrought wonders. + +We have made a large L-shaped inner apartment with packing-cases, +the intervals stopped with felt. An empty kerosene tin and some +firebricks have been made into an excellent little stove, which has +been connected to the old stove-pipe. The solider fare of our meals +is either stewed or fried on this stove whilst the tea or cocoa is +being prepared on a primus. + +The temperature of the hut is low, of course, but in every other +respect we are absolutely comfortable. There is an unlimited quantity +of biscuit, and our discovery at Pram Point means an unlimited +supply of seal meat. We have heaps of cocoa, coffee, and tea, and a +sufficiency of sugar and salt. In addition a small store of luxuries, +chocolate, raisins, lentils, oatmeal, sardines, and jams, which will +serve to vary the fare. One way and another we shall manage to be +very comfortable during our stay here, and already we can regard it +as a temporary home. + +_Thursday, March_ 9, A.M.--Yesterday and to-day very busy about the +hut and overcoming difficulties fast. The stove threatened to exhaust +our store of firewood. We have redesigned it so that it takes only a +few chips of wood to light it and then continues to give great heat +with blubber alone. To-day there are to be further improvements to +regulate the draught and increase the cooking range. We have further +housed in the living quarters with our old _Discovery_ winter awning, +and begin already to retain the heat which is generated inside. We are +beginning to eat blubber and find biscuits fried in it to be delicious. + +We really have everything necessary for our comfort and only need +a little more experience to make the best of our resources. The +weather has been wonderfully, perhaps ominously, fine during the +last few days. The sea has frozen over and broken up several times +already. The warm sun has given a grand opportunity to dry all gear. + +Yesterday morning Bowers went with a party to pick up the stores +rescued from the floe last week. Evans volunteered to join the party +with Meares, Keohane, Atkinson, and Gran. They started from the hut +about 10 A.M.; we helped them up the hill, and at 7.30 I saw them reach +the camp containing the gear, some 12 miles away. I don't expect them +in till to-morrow night. + +It is splendid to see the way in which everyone is learning the +ropes, and the resource which is being shown. Wilson as usual leads +in the making of useful suggestions and in generally providing for +our wants. He is a tower of strength in checking the ill-usage of +clothes--what I have come to regard as the greatest danger with +Englishmen. + +_Friday, March_ 10, A.M.--Went yesterday to Castle Rock with Wilson +to see what chance there might be of getting to Cape Evans. [17] +The day was bright and it was quite warm walking in the sun. There +is no doubt the route to Cape Evans lies over the worst corner of +Erebus. From this distance the whole mountain side looks a mass of +crevasses, but a route might be found at a level of 3000 or 4000 ft. + +The hut is getting warmer and more comfortable. We have very excellent +nights; it is cold only in the early morning. The outside temperatures +range from 8° or so in the day to 2° at night. To-day there is a strong +S.E. wind with drift. We are going to fetch more blubber for the stove. + +_Saturday, March 11, A.M._--Went yesterday morning to Pram Point to +fetch in blubber--wind very strong to Gap but very little on Pram +Point side. + +In the evening went half-way to Castle Rock; strong bitter cold wind on +summit. Could not see the sledge party, but after supper they arrived, +having had very hard pulling. They had had no wind at all till they +approached the hut. Their temperatures had fallen to -10° and -15°, +but with bright clear sunshine in the daytime. They had thoroughly +enjoyed their trip and the pulling on ski. + +Life in the hut is much improved, but if things go too fast there +will be all too little to think about and give occupation in the hut. + +It is astonishing how the miscellaneous assortment of articles +remaining in and about the hut have been put to useful purpose. + +This deserves description._15_ + +_Monday, March_ 13, A.M.--The weather grew bad on Saturday night +and we had a mild blizzard yesterday. The wind went to the south +and increased in force last night, and this morning there was quite +a heavy sea breaking over the ice foot. The spray came almost up to +the dogs. It reminds us of the gale in which we drove ashore in the +_Discovery._ We have had some trouble with our blubber stove and got +the hut very full of smoke on Saturday night. As a result we are all as +black as sweeps and our various garments are covered with oily soot. We +look a fearful gang of ruffians. The blizzard has delayed our plans +and everyone's attention is bent on the stove, the cooking, and the +various internal arrangements. Nothing is done without a great amount +of advice received from all quarters, and consequently things are +pretty well done. The hut has a pungent odour of blubber and blubber +smoke. We have grown accustomed to it, but imagine that ourselves and +our clothes will be given a wide berth when we return to Cape Evans. + +_Wednesday, March_ 15, A.M.--It was blowing continuously from the +south throughout Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday--I never remember such +a persistent southerly wind. + +Both Monday and Tuesday I went up Crater Hill. I feared that our floe +at Pram Point would go, but yesterday it still remained, though the +cracks are getting more open. We should be in a hole if it went. [18] + +As I came down the hill yesterday I saw a strange figure advancing and +found it belonged to Griffith Taylor. He and his party had returned +safely. They were very full of their adventures. The main part of +their work seems to be rediscovery of many facts which were noted but +perhaps passed over too lightly in the _Discovery_--but it is certain +that the lessons taught by the physiographical and ice features will +now be thoroughly explained. A very interesting fact lies in the +continuous bright sunshiny weather which the party enjoyed during +the first four weeks of their work. They seem to have avoided all +our stormy winds and blizzards. + +But I must leave Griffith Taylor to tell his own story, which will +certainly be a lengthy one. The party gives Evans [P.O.] a very +high character. + +To-day we have a large seal-killing party. I hope to get in a good +fortnight's allowance of blubber as well as meat, and pray that our +floe will remain. + +_Friday, March_ 17, A.M.--We killed eleven seals at Pram Point on +Wednesday, had lunch on the Point, and carried some half ton of the +blubber and meat back to camp--it was a stiff pull up the hill. + +Yesterday the last Corner Party started: Evans, Wright, Crean, and +Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard, and Atkinson in the +other. It was very sporting of Wright to join in after only a day's +rest. He is evidently a splendid puller. + +Debenham has become principal cook, and evidently enjoys the task. + +Taylor is full of good spirits and anecdote, an addition to the party. + +Yesterday after a beautifully fine morning we got a strong northerly +wind which blew till the middle of the night, crowding the young +ice up the Strait. Then the wind suddenly shifted to the south, +and I thought we were in for a blizzard; but this morning the wind +has gone to the S.E.--the stratus cloud formed by the north wind is +dissipating, and the damp snow deposited in the night is drifting. It +looks like a fine evening. + +Steadily we are increasing the comforts of the hut. The stove has +been improved out of all recognition; with extra stove-pipes we get +no back draughts, no smoke inside, whilst the economy of fuel is +much increased. + +Insulation inside and out is the subject we are now attacking. + +The young ice is going to and fro, but the sea refuses to freeze over +so far--except in the region of Pram Point, where a bay has remained +for some four days holding some pieces of Barrier in its grip. These +pieces have come from the edge of the Barrier and some are crumbling +already, showing a deep and rapid surface deposit of snow and therefore +the probability that they are drifted sea ice not more than a year +or two old, the depth of the drift being due to proximity to an old +Barrier edge. + +I have just taken to pyjama trousers and shall don an extra shirt--I +have been astonished at the warmth which I have felt throughout in +light clothing. So far I have had nothing more than a singlet and +jersey under pyjama jacket and a single pair of drawers under wind +trousers. A hole in the drawers of ancient date means that one place +has had no covering but the wind trousers, yet I have never felt cold +about the body. + +In spite of all little activities I am impatient of our wait here. But +I shall be impatient also in the main hut. It is ill to sit still +and contemplate the ruin which has assailed our transport. The +scheme of advance must be very different from that which I first +contemplated. The Pole is a very long way off, alas! + +Bit by bit I am losing all faith in the dogs--I'm afraid they will +never go the pace we look for. + +_Saturday, March_ 18, A.M.--Still blowing and drifting. It seems as +though there can be no peace at this spot till the sea is properly +frozen over. It blew very hard from the S.E. yesterday--I could +scarcely walk against the wind. In the night it fell calm; the moon +shone brightly at midnight. Then the sky became overcast and the +temperature rose to +11. Now the wind is coming in spurts from the +south--all indications of a blizzard. + +With the north wind of Friday the ice must have pressed up on Hut +Point. A considerable floe of pressed up young ice is grounded under +the point, and this morning we found a seal on this. Just as the party +started out to kill it, it slid off into the water--it had evidently +finished its sleep--but it is encouraging to have had a chance to +capture a seal so close to the hut. + +_Monday, March_ 20.--On Saturday night it blew hard from the south, +thick overhead, low stratus and drift. The sea spray again came over +the ice foot and flung up almost to the dogs; by Sunday morning the +wind had veered to the S.E., and all yesterday it blew with great +violence and temperature down to -11° and -12°. + +We were confined to the hut and its immediate environs. Last night the +wind dropped, and for a few hours this morning we had light airs only, +the temperature rising to -2°. + +The continuous bad weather is very serious for the dogs. We have +strained every nerve to get them comfortable, but the changes of wind +made it impossible to afford shelter in all directions. Some five or +six dogs are running loose, but we dare not allow the stronger animals +such liberty. They suffer much from the cold, but they don't get worse. + +The small white dog which fell into the crevasse on our home journey +died yesterday. Under the best circumstances I doubt if it could have +lived, as there had evidently been internal injury and an external +sore had grown gangrenous. Three other animals are in a poor way, +but may pull through with luck. + +We had a stroke of luck to-day. The young ice pressed up off Hut +Point has remained fast--a small convenient platform jutting out +from the point. We found two seals on it to-day and killed them--thus +getting a good supply of meat for the dogs and some more blubber for +our fire. Other seals came up as the first two were being skinned, +so that one may now hope to keep up all future supplies on this side +of the ridge. + +As I write the wind is blowing up again and looks like returning to +the south. The only comfort is that these strong cold winds with no +sun must go far to cool the waters of the Sound. + +The continuous bad weather is trying to the spirits, but we are fairly +comfortable in the hut and only suffer from lack of exercise to work +off the heavy meals our appetites demand. + +_Tuesday, March_ 21.--The wind returned to the south at 8 last +night. It gradually increased in force until 2 A.M., when it +was blowing from the S.S.W., force 9 to 10. The sea was breaking +constantly and heavily on the ice foot. The spray carried right over +the Point--covering all things and raining on the roof of the hut. Poor +Vince's cross, some 30 feet above the water, was enveloped in it. + +Of course the dogs had a very poor time, and we went and released +two or three, getting covered in spray during the operation--our wind +clothes very wet. + +This is the third gale from the south since our arrival here. Any +one of these would have rendered the Bay impossible for a ship, and +therefore it is extraordinary that we should have entirely escaped +such a blow when the _Discovery_ was in it in 1902. + +The effects of this gale are evident and show that it is a most unusual +occurrence. The rippled snow surface of the ice foot is furrowed in +all directions and covered with briny deposit--a condition we have +never seen before. The ice foot at the S.W. corner of the bay is +broken down, bare rock appearing for the first time. + +The sledges, magnetic huts, and in fact every exposed object on the +Point are thickly covered with brine. Our seal floe has gone, so it +is good-bye to seals on this side for some time. + +The dogs are the main sufferers by this continuance of phenomenally +terrible weather. At least four are in a bad state; some six or seven +others are by no means fit and well, but oddly enough some ten or a +dozen animals are as fit as they can be. Whether constitutionally +harder or whether better fitted by nature or chance to protect +themselves it is impossible to say--Osman, Czigane, Krisravitsa, +Hohol, and some others are in first-rate condition, whilst Lappa is +better than he has ever been before. + +It is so impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in the traces and +so laborious to be continually attempting it, that we have decided +to let the majority run loose. It will be wonderful if we can avoid +one or two murders, but on the other hand probably more would die if +we kept them in leash. + +We shall try and keep the quarrelsome dogs chained up. + +The main trouble that seems to come on the poor wretches is the icing +up of their hindquarters; once the ice gets thoroughly into the coat +the hind legs get half paralysed with cold. The hope is that the +animals will free themselves of this by running about. + +Well, well, fortune is not being very kind to us. This month will have +sad memories. Still I suppose things might be worse; the ponies are +well housed and are doing exceedingly well, though we have slightly +increased their food allowance. + +Yesterday afternoon we climbed Observation Hill to see some examples of +spheroidal weathering--Wilson knew of them and guided. The geologists +state that they indicate a columnar structure, the tops of the columns +being weathered out. + +The specimens we saw were very perfect. Had some interesting +instruction in geology in the evening. I should not regret a stay +here with our two geologists if only the weather would allow us to +get about. + +This morning the wind moderated and went to the S.E.; the sea +naturally fell quickly. The temperature this morning was + 17°; +minimum +11°. But now the wind is increasing from the S.E. and it is +momentarily getting colder. + +_Thursday, March_ 23, A.M.--No signs of depot party, which to-night +will have been a week absent. On Tuesday afternoon we went up to +the Big Boulder above Ski slope. The geologists were interested, +and we others learnt something of olivines, green in crystal form +or oxidized to bright red, granites or granulites or quartzites, +hornblende and feldspars, ferrous and ferric oxides of lava acid, +basic, plutonic, igneous, eruptive--schists, basalts &c. All such +things I must get clearer in my mind. [19] + +Tuesday afternoon a cold S.E. wind commenced and blew all night. + +Yesterday morning it was calm and I went up Crater Hill. The sea +of stratus cloud hung curtain-like over the Strait--blue sky east +and south of it and the Western Mountains bathed in sunshine, sharp, +clear, distinct, a glorious glimpse of grandeur on which the curtain +gradually descended. In the morning it looked as though great pieces +of Barrier were drifting out. From the hill one found these to be +but small fragments which the late gale had dislodged, leaving in +places a blue wall very easily distinguished from the general white +of the older fractures. The old floe and a good extent of new ice +had remained fast in Pram Point Bay. Great numbers of seals up as +usual. The temperature was up to +20° at noon. In the afternoon a very +chill wind from the east, temperature rapidly dropping till zero in +the evening. The Strait obstinately refuses to freeze. + +We are scoring another success in the manufacture of blubber lamps, +which relieves anxiety as to lighting as the hours of darkness +increase. + +The young ice in Pram Point Bay is already being pressed up. + +_Friday, March_ 24, A.M.--Skuas still about, a few--very shy--very +dark in colour after moulting. + +Went along Arrival Heights yesterday with very keen over-ridge wind--it +was difficult to get shelter. In the evening it fell calm and has +remained all night with temperature up to + 18°. This morning it is +snowing with fairly large flakes. + +Yesterday for the first time saw the ice foot on the south side of the +bay, a wall some 5 or 6 ft. above water and 12 or 14 ft. below; the +sea bottom quite clear with the white wall resting on it. This must +be typical of the ice foot all along the coast, and the wasting of +caves at sea level alone gives the idea of an overhanging mass. Very +curious and interesting erosion of surface of the ice foot by waves +during recent gale. + +The depot party returned yesterday morning. They had thick weather +on the outward march and missed the track, finally doing 30 miles +between Safety Camp and Corner Camp. They had a hard blow up to force +8 on the night of our gale. Started N.W. and strongest S.S.E. + +The sea wants to freeze--a thin coating of ice formed directly the +wind dropped; but the high temperature does not tend to thicken it +rapidly and the tide makes many an open lead. We have been counting +our resources and arranging for another twenty days' stay. + +_Saturday, March_ 25, A.M.--We have had two days of surprisingly +warm weather, the sky overcast, snow falling, wind only in light +airs. Last night the sky was clearing, with a southerly wind, and this +morning the sea was open all about us. It is disappointing to find +the ice so reluctant to hold; at the same time one supposes that the +cooling of the water is proceeding and therefore that each day makes +it easier for the ice to form--the sun seems to have lost all power, +but I imagine its rays still tend to warm the surface water about the +noon hours. It is only a week now to the date which I thought would +see us all at Cape Evans. + +The warmth of the air has produced a comparatively uncomfortable state +of affairs in the hut. The ice on the inner roof is melting fast, +dripping on the floor and streaming down the sides. The increasing +cold is checking the evil even as I write. Comfort could only be +ensured in the hut either by making a clean sweep of all the ceiling +ice or by keeping the interior at a critical temperature little +above freezing-point. + +_Sunday, March_ 26, P.M.--Yesterday morning went along Arrival Heights +in very cold wind. Afternoon to east side Observation Hill. As +afternoon advanced, wind fell. Glorious evening--absolutely calm, +smoke ascending straight. Sea frozen over--looked very much like +final freezing, but in night wind came from S.E., producing open +water all along shore. Wind continued this morning with drift, +slackened in afternoon; walked over Gap and back by Crater Heights +to Arrival Heights. + +Sea east of Cape Armitage pretty well covered with ice; some open +pools--sea off shore west of the Cape frozen in pools, open lanes +close to shore as far as Castle Rock. Bays either side of Glacier +Tongue _look_ fairly well frozen. Hut still dropping water badly. + +Held service in hut this morning, read Litany. One skua seen to-day. + +_Monday, March_ 27, P.M.--Strong easterly wind on ridge to-day rushing +down over slopes on western side. + +Ice holding south from about Hut Point, but cleared 1/2 to 3/4 +mile from shore to northward. Cleared in patches also, I am told, +on both sides of Glacier Tongue, which is annoying. A regular local +wind. The Barrier edge can be seen clearly all along, showing there +is little or no drift. Have been out over the Gap for walk. Glad to +say majority of people seem anxious to get exercise, but one or two +like the fire better. + +The dogs are getting fitter each day, and all save one or two have +excellent coats. I was very pleased to find one or two of the animals +voluntarily accompanying us on our walk. It is good to see them +trotting against a strong drift. + +_Tuesday, March_ 28.--Slowly but surely the sea is freezing over. The +ice holds and thickens south of Hut Point in spite of strong easterly +wind and in spite of isolated water holes which obstinately remain +open. It is difficult to account for these--one wonders if the air +currents shoot downward on such places; but even so it is strange +that they do not gradually diminish in extent. A great deal of ice +seems to have remained in and about the northern islets, but it is +too far to be sure that there is a continuous sheet. + +We are building stabling to accommodate four more ponies under the +eastern verandah. When this is complete we shall be able to shelter +seven animals, and this should be enough for winter and spring +operations. + +_Thursday, March_ 30.--The ice holds south of Hut Point, though not +thickening rapidly--yesterday was calm and the same ice conditions +seemed to obtain on both sides of the Glacier Tongue. It looks as +though the last part of the road to become safe will be the stretch +from Hut Point to Turtleback Island. Here the sea seems disinclined +to freeze even in calm weather. To-day there is more strong wind from +the east. White horse all along under the ridge. + +The period of our stay here seems to promise to lengthen. It is +trying--trying--but we can live, which is something. I should not +be greatly surprised if we had to wait till May. Several skuas were +about the camp yesterday. I have seen none to-day. + +Two rorquals were rising close to Hut Point this morning--although +the ice is nowhere thick it was strange to see them making for the +open leads and thin places to blow. + +_Friday, March_ 31.--I studied the wind blowing along the ridge +yesterday and came to the conclusion that a comparatively thin shaft of +air was moving along the ridge from Erebus. On either side of the ridge +it seemed to pour down from the ridge itself--there was practically +no wind on the sea ice off Pram Point, and to the westward of Hut +Point the frost smoke was drifting to the N.W. The temperature ranges +about zero. It seems to be almost certain that the perpetual wind is +due to the open winter. Meanwhile the sea refuses to freeze over. + +Wright pointed out the very critical point which zero temperature +represents in the freezing of salt water, being the freezing +temperature of concentrated brine--a very few degrees above or below +zero would make all the difference to the rate of increase of the +ice thickness. + +Yesterday the ice was 8 inches in places east of Cape Armitage and 6 +inches in our Bay: it was said to be fast to the south of the Glacier +Tongue well beyond Turtleback Island and to the north out of the +Islands, except for a strip of water immediately north of the Tongue. + +We are good for another week in pretty well every commodity and shall +then have to reduce luxuries. But we have plenty of seal meat, blubber +and biscuit, and can therefore remain for a much longer period if needs +be. Meanwhile the days are growing shorter and the weather colder. + +_Saturday, April_ 1.--The wind yesterday was blowing across the Ridge +from the top down on the sea to the west: very little wind on the +eastern slopes and practically none at Pram Point. A seal came up +in our Bay and was killed. Taylor found a number of fish frozen into +the sea ice--he says there are several in a small area. + +The pressure ridges in Pram Point Bay are estimated by Wright to +have set up about 3 feet. This ice has been 'in' about ten days. It +is now safe to work pretty well anywhere south of Hut Point. + +Went to Third Crater (next Castle Rock) yesterday. The ice seems to +be holding in the near Bay from a point near Hulton Rocks to Glacier; +also in the whole of the North Bay except for a tongue of open water +immediately north of the Glacier. + +The wind is the same to-day as yesterday, and the open water apparently +not reduced by a square yard. I'm feeling impatient. + +_Sunday, April_ 2, A.M.--Went round Cape Armitage to Pram Point on +sea ice for first time yesterday afternoon. Ice solid everywhere, +except off the Cape, where there are numerous open pools. Can only +imagine layers of comparatively warm water brought to the surface +by shallows. The ice between the pools is fairly shallow. One +Emperor killed off the Cape. Several skuas seen--three seals up in +our Bay--several off Pram Point in the shelter of Horse Shoe Bay. A +great many fish on sea ice--mostly small, but a second species 5 or +6 inches long: imagine they are chased by seals and caught in brashy +ice where they are unable to escape. Came back over hill: glorious +sunset, brilliant crimson clouds in west. + +Returned to find wind dropping, the first time for three days. It +turned to north in the evening. Splendid aurora in the night; a bright +band of light from S.S.W. to E.N.E. passing within 10° of the zenith +with two waving spirals at the summit. This morning sea to north +covered with ice. Min. temp, for night -5°, but I think most of the +ice was brought in by the wind. Things look more hopeful. Ice now +continuous to Cape Evans, but very thin as far as Glacier Tongue; +three or four days of calm or light winds should make everything firm. + +_Wednesday, April_ 5, A.M.--The east wind has continued with a short +break on Sunday for five days, increasing in violence and gradually +becoming colder and more charged with snow until yesterday, when we +had a thick overcast day with falling and driving snow and temperature +down to -11°. + +Went beyond Castle Rock on Sunday and Monday mornings with Griffith +Taylor. + +Think the wind fairly local and that the Strait has frozen over to +the north, as streams of drift snow and ice crystals (off the cliffs) +were building up the ice sheet towards the wind. Monday we could see +the approaching white sheet--yesterday it was visibly closer to land, +though the wind had not decreased. Walking was little pleasure on +either day: yesterday climbed about hills to see all possible. No one +else left the hut. In the evening the wind fell and freezing continued +during night (min.--17°). This morning there is ice everywhere. I +cannot help thinking it has come to stay. In Arrival Bay it is 6 +to 7 inches thick, but the new pools beyond have only I inch of the +regular elastic sludgy new ice. The sky cleared last night, and this +morning we have sunshine for the first time for many days. If this +weather holds for a day we shall be all right. We are getting towards +the end of our luxuries, so that it is quite time we made a move--we +are very near the end of the sugar. + +The skuas seem to have gone, the last was seen on Sunday. These birds +were very shy towards the end of their stay, also very dark in plumage; +they did not seem hungry, and yet it must have been difficult for +them to get food. + +The seals are coming up in our Bay--five last night. Luckily the +dogs have not yet discovered them or the fact that the sea ice will +bear them. + +Had an interesting talk with Taylor on agglomerate and basaltic dykes +of Castle Rock. The perfection of the small cone craters below Castle +Rock seem to support the theory we have come to, that there have been +volcanic disturbances since the recession of the greater ice sheet. + +It is a great thing having Wright to fog out the ice problems, +and he has had a good opportunity of observing many interesting +things here. He is keeping notes of ice changes and a keen eye on +ice phenomena; we have many discussions. + +Yesterday Wilson prepared a fry of seal meat with penguin blubber. It +had a flavour like cod-liver oil and was not much appreciated--some +ate their share, and I think all would have done so if we had had +sledging appetites--shades of _Discovery_ days!!_16_ + +This Emperor weighed anything from 88 to 96 lbs., and therefore +approximated to or exceeded the record. + +The dogs are doing pretty well with one or two exceptions. Deek is +the worst, but I begin to think all will pull through. + +_Thursday, April_ 6, A.M.--The weather continued fine and clear +yesterday--one of the very few fine days we have had since our arrival +at the hut. + +The sun shone continuously from early morning till it set behind the +northern hills about 5 P.M. The sea froze completely, but with only +a thin sheet to the north. A fairly strong northerly wind sprang up, +causing this thin ice to override and to leave several open leads +near the land. In the forenoon I went to the edge of the new ice +with Wright. It looked at the limit of safety and we did not venture +far. The over-riding is interesting: the edge of one sheet splits as +it rises and slides over the other sheet in long tongues which creep +onward impressively. Whilst motion lasts there is continuous music, +a medley of high pitched but tuneful notes--one might imagine small +birds chirping in a wood. The ice sings, we say. + +P.M.--In the afternoon went nearly two miles to the north over the +young ice; found it about 3 1/2 inches thick. At supper arranged +programme for shift to Cape Evans--men to go on Saturday--dogs +Sunday--ponies Monday--all subject to maintenance of good weather +of course. + +_Friday, April_ 7.--Went north over ice with Atkinson, Bowers, Taylor, +Cherry-Garrard; found the thickness nearly 5 inches everywhere except +in open water leads, which remain open in many places. As we got away +from the land we got on an interesting surface of small pancakes, +much capped and pressed up, a sort of mosaic. This is the ice which +was built up from lee side of the Strait, spreading across to windward +against the strong winds of Monday and Tuesday. + +Another point of interest was the manner in which the overriding ice +sheets had scraped the under floes. + +Taylor fell in when rather foolishly trying to cross a thinly covered +lead--he had a very scared face for a moment or two whilst we hurried +to the rescue, but hauled himself out with his ice axe without our +help and walked back with Cherry. + +The remainder of us went on till abreast of the sulphur cones under +Castle Rock, when we made for the shore, and with a little mutual +help climbed the cliff and returned by land. + +As far as one can see all should be well for our return to-morrow, +but the sky is clouding to-night and a change of weather seems +imminent. Three successive fine days seem near the limit in this +region. + +We have picked up quite a number of fish frozen in the ice--the larger +ones about the size of a herring and the smaller of a minnow. We +imagined both had been driven into the slushy ice by seals, but +to-day Gran found a large fish frozen in the act of swallowing a +small one. It looks as though both small and large are caught when +one is chasing the other. + +We have achieved such great comfort here that one is half sorry to +leave--it is a fine healthy existence with many hours spent in the +open and generally some interesting object for our walks abroad. The +hill climbing gives excellent exercise--we shall miss much of it at +Cape Evans. But I am anxious to get back and see that all is well at +the latter, as for a long time I have been wondering how our beach +has withstood the shocks of northerly winds. The thought that the hut +may have been damaged by the sea in one of the heavy storms will not +be banished. + + +A Sketch of the Life at Hut Point + +We gather around the fire seated on packing-cases to receive them +with a hunk of butter and a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well +worth living. After lunch we are out and about again; there is little +to tempt a long stay indoors and exercise keeps us all the fitter. + +The falling light and approach of supper drives us home again with +good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival one +another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver. A single +dish may not seem to offer much opportunity of variation, but a lot +can be done with a little flour, a handful of raisins, a spoonful of +curry powder, or the addition of a little boiled pea meal. Be this as +it may, we never tire of our dish and exclamations of satisfaction +can be heard every night--or nearly every night, for two nights ago +[April 4] Wilson, who has proved a genius in the invention of 'plats,' +almost ruined his reputation. He proposed to fry the seal liver +in penguin blubber, suggesting that the latter could be freed from +all rankness. The blubber was obtained and rendered down with great +care, the result appeared as delightfully pure fat free from smell; +but appearances were deceptive; the 'fry' proved redolent of penguin, +a concentrated essence of that peculiar flavour which faintly lingers +in the meat and should not be emphasised. Three heroes got through +their pannikins, but the rest of us decided to be contented with +cocoa and biscuit after tasting the first mouthful. After supper we +have an hour or so of smoking and conversation--a cheering, pleasant +hour--in which reminiscences are exchanged by a company which has +very literally had world-wide experience. There is scarce a country +under the sun which one or another of us has not travelled in, so +diverse are our origins and occupations. An hour or so after supper +we tail off one by one, spread out our sleeping-bags, take off our +shoes and creep into comfort, for our reindeer bags are really warm +and comfortable now that they have had a chance of drying, and the +hut retains some of the heat generated in it. Thanks to the success +of the blubber lamps and to a fair supply of candles, we can muster +ample light to read for another hour or two, and so tucked up in our +furs we study the social and political questions of the past decade. + +We muster no less than sixteen. Seven of us pretty well cover the floor +of one wing of the L-shaped enclosure, four sleep in the other wing, +which also holds the store, whilst the remaining five occupy the annexe +and affect to find the colder temperature more salubrious. Everyone +can manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a few +would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which goes +to show that our extremely simple life is an exceedingly healthy one, +though with faces and hands blackened with smoke, appearances might +not lead an outsider to suppose it. + +_Sunday, April_ 9, A.M.--On Friday night it grew overcast and the +wind went to the south. During the whole of yesterday and last +night it blew a moderate blizzard--the temperature at highest +5°, +a relatively small amount of drift. On Friday night the ice in the +Strait went out from a line meeting the shore 3/4 mile north of Hut +Point. A crack off Hut Point and curving to N.W. opened to about 15 +or 20 feet, the opening continuing on the north side of the Point. It +is strange that the ice thus opened should have remained. + +Ice cleared out to the north directly wind commenced--it didn't wait +a single instant, showing that our journey over it earlier in the day +was a very risky proceeding--the uncertainty of these conditions is +beyond words, but there shall be no more of this foolish venturing +on young ice. This decision seems to put off the return of the ponies +to a comparatively late date. + +Yesterday went to the second crater, Arrival Heights, hoping to see +the condition of the northerly bays, but could see little or nothing +owing to drift. A white line dimly seen on the horizon seemed to +indicate that the ice drifted out has not gone far. + +Some skuas were seen yesterday, a very late date. The seals disinclined +to come on the ice; one can be seen at Cape Armitage this morning, +but it is two or three days since there was one up in our Bay. It +will certainly be some time before the ponies can be got back. + +_Monday, April_ 10, P.M.--Intended to make for Cape Evans this +morning. Called hands early, but when we were ready for departure after +breakfast, the sky became more overcast and snow began to fall. It +continued off and on all day, only clearing as the sun set. It would +have been the worst condition possible for our attempt, as we could +not have been more than 100 yards. + +Conditions look very unfavourable for the continued freezing of +the Strait. + +_Thursday, April_ 13.--Started from Hut Point 9 A.M. Tuesday. Party +consisted of self, Bowers, P.O. Evans, Taylor, one tent; Evans, +Gran, Crean, Debenham, and Wright, second tent. Left Wilson in +charge at Hut Point with Meares, Forde, Keohane, Oates, Atkinson, and +Cherry-Garrard. All gave us a pull up the ski slope; it had become a +point of honour to take this slope without a 'breather.' I find such +an effort trying in the early morning, but had to go through with it. + +Weather fine; we marched past Castle Rock, east of it; the snow +was soft on the slopes, showing the shelter afforded--continued to +traverse the ridge for the first time--found quite good surface much +wind swept--passed both cones on the ridge on the west side. Caught a +glimpse of fast ice in the Bays either side of Glacier as expected, +but in the near Bay its extent was very small. Evidently we should +have to go well along the ridge before descending, and then the +problem would be how to get down over the cliffs. On to Hulton Rocks +7 1/2 miles from the start--here it was very icy and wind swept, +inhospitable--the wind got up and light became bad just at the critical +moment, so we camped and had some tea at 2 P.M. A clearance half an +hour later allowed us to see a possible descent to the ice cliffs, +but between Hulton Rocks and Erebus all the slope was much cracked +and crevassed. We chose a clear track to the edge of the cliffs, +but could find no low place in these, the lowest part being 24 feet +sheer drop. Arriving here the wind increased, the snow drifting off +the ridge--we had to decide quickly; I got myself to the edge and +made standing places to work the rope; dug away at the cornice, well +situated for such work in harness. Got three people lowered by the +Alpine rope--Evans, Bowers, and Taylor--then sent down the sledges, +which went down in fine style, fully packed--then the remainder of the +party. For the last three, drove a stake hard down in the snow and +used the rope round it, the men being lowered by people below--came +down last myself. Quite a neat and speedy bit of work and all done +in 20 minutes without serious frostbite--quite pleased with the result. + +We found pulling to Glacier Tongue very heavy over the surface of +ice covered with salt crystals, and reached Glacier Tongue about +5.30; found a low place and got the sledges up the 6 ft. wall pretty +easily. Stiff incline, but easy pulling on hard surface--the light +was failing and the surface criss-crossed with innumerable cracks; +several of us fell in these with risk of strain, but the north side +was well snow-covered and easy, with a good valley leading to a low +ice cliff--here a broken piece afforded easy descent. I decided to +push on for Cape Evans, so camped for tea at 6. At 6.30 found darkness +suddenly arrived; it was very difficult to see anything--we got down +on the sea ice, very heavy pulling, but plodded on for some hours; at +10 arrived close under little Razor Back Island, and not being able +to see anything ahead, decided to camp and got to sleep at 11.30 in +no very comfortable circumstances. + +The wind commenced to rise during night. We found a roaring blizzard +in the morning. We had many alarms for the safety of the ice on +which the camp was pitched. Bowers and Taylor climbed the island; +reported wind terrific on the summit--sweeping on either side but +comparatively calm immediately to windward and to leeward. Waited +all day in hopes of a lull; at 3 I went round the island myself with +Bowers, and found a little ice platform close under the weather +side; resolved to shift camp here. It took two very cold hours, +but we gained great shelter, the cliffs rising almost sheer from the +tents. Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied down on the +tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the wind sweeping +over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening; we could scarcely +hear ourselves speak. Settled down for our second night with little +comfort, and slept better, knowing we could not be swept out to sea, +but provisions were left only for one more meal. + +During the night the wind moderated and we could just see outline +of land. + +I roused the party at 7 A.M. and we were soon under weigh, with a +desperately cold and stiff breeze and frozen clothes; it was very +heavy pulling, but the distance only two miles. Arrived off the point +about ten and found sea ice continued around it. It was a very great +relief to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was well. + +Another pony, Hackenschmidt, and one dog reported dead, but this +certainly is not worse than expected. All the other animals are in +good form. + +Delighted with everything I see in the hut. Simpson has done wonders, +but indeed so has everyone else, and I must leave description to a +future occasion. + +_Friday, April_ 14.--Good Friday. Peaceful day. Wind continuing 20 +to 30 miles per hour. + +Had divine service. + +_Saturday, April_ 15.--Weather continuing thoroughly bad. Wind +blowing from 30 to 40 miles an hour all day; drift bad, and to-night +snow falling. I am waiting to get back to Hut Point with relief +stores. To-night sent up signal light to inform them there of our +safe arrival--an answering flare was shown. + +_Sunday, April_ 16.--Same wind as yesterday up to 6 o'clock, when it +fell calm with gusts from the north. + +Have exercised the ponies to-day and got my first good look at them. I +scarcely like to express the mixed feelings with which I am able to +regard this remnant. + + +Freezing of Bays. Cape Evans + +_March_ 15.--General young ice formed. + +_March_ 19.--Bay cleared except strip inside Inaccessible and +Razor Back Islands to Corner Turk's Head. + +_March_ 20.--Everything cleared. + +_March_ 25.--Sea froze over inside Islands for good. + +_March_ 28.--Sea frozen as far as seen. + +_March_ 30.--Remaining only inside Islands. + +_April_ 1.--Limit Cape to Island. + +_April_ 6.--Present limit freezing in Strait and in North Bay. + +_April_ 9.--Strait cleared except former limit and _some_ ice in +North Bay likely to remain. + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +Home Impressions and an Excursion + +_Impressions on returning to the Hut, April_ 13, 1911 + +In choosing the site of the hut on our Home Beach I had thought of +the possibility of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, +firstly, that no heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the +Sound; secondly, that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack +which would damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was excellently +protected by the Barne Glacier, and finally, that the beach itself +showed no signs of having been swept by the sea, the rock fragments +composing it being completely angular. + +When the hut was erected and I found that its foundation was only +11 feet above the level of the sea ice, I had a slight misgiving, +but reassured myself again by reconsidering the circumstances that +afforded shelter to the beach. + +The fact that such question had been considered makes it easier to +understand the attitude of mind that readmitted doubt in the face of +phenomenal conditions. + +The event has justified my original arguments, but I must confess a +sense of having assumed security without sufficient proof in a case +where an error of judgment might have had dire consequences. + +It was not until I found all safe at the Home Station that I realised +how anxious I had been concerning it. In a normal season no thought +of its having been in danger would have occurred to me, but since the +loss of the ponies and the breaking of the Glacier Tongue I could not +rid myself of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some +abnormal swell had swept the beach; gloomy thoughts of the havoc that +might have been wrought by such an event would arise in spite of the +sound reasons which had originally led me to choose the site of the +hut as a safe one. + +The late freezing of the sea, the terrible continuance of wind and +the abnormalities to which I have referred had gradually strengthened +the profound distrust with which I had been forced to regard our +mysterious Antarctic climate until my imagination conjured up many +forms of disaster as possibly falling on those from whom I had parted +for so long. + +We marched towards Cape Evans under the usually miserable conditions +which attend the breaking of camp in a cold wind after a heavy +blizzard. The outlook was dreary in the grey light of early morning, +our clothes were frozen stiff and our fingers, wet and cold in the +tent, had been frostbitten in packing the sledges. + +A few comforting signs of life appeared as we approached the Cape; some +old footprints in the snow, a long silk thread from the meteorologist's +balloon; but we saw nothing more as we neared the rocks of the +promontory and the many grounded bergs which were scattered off it. + +To my surprise the fast ice extended past the Cape and we were able +to round it into the North Bay. Here we saw the weather screen on Wind +Vane Hill, and a moment later turned a small headland and brought the +hut in full view. It was intact--stables, outhouses and all; evidently +the sea had left it undisturbed. I breathed a huge sigh of relief. We +watched two figures at work near the stables and wondered when they +would see us. In a moment or two they did so, and fled inside the +hut to carry the news of our arrival. Three minutes later all nine +occupants [20] were streaming over the floe towards us with shouts +of welcome. There were eager inquiries as to mutual welfare and it +took but a minute to learn the most important events of the quiet +station life which had been led since our departure. These under the +circumstances might well be considered the deaths of one pony and +one dog. The pony was that which had been nicknamed Hackenschmidt +from his vicious habit of using both fore and hind legs in attacking +those who came near him. He had been obviously of different breed from +the other ponies, being of lighter and handsomer shape, suggestive +of a strain of Arab blood. From no cause which could be discovered +either by the symptoms of his illness or the post-mortem held by +Nelson could a reason be found for his death. In spite of the best +feeding and every care he had gradually sickened until he was too +weak to stand, and in this condition there had been no option but to +put him out of misery. Anton considers the death of Hackenschmidt to +have been an act of 'cussedness'--the result of a determination to do +no work for the Expedition!! Although the loss is serious I remember +doubts which I had as to whether this animal could be anything but +a source of trouble to us. He had been most difficult to handle all +through, showing a vicious, intractable temper. I had foreseen great +difficulties with him, especially during the early part of any journey +on which he was taken, and this consideration softened the news of +his death. The dog had been left behind in a very sick condition, +and this loss was not a great surprise. + +These items were the worst of the small budget of news that awaited +me; for the rest, the hut arrangements had worked out in the most +satisfactory manner possible and the scientific routine of observations +was in full swing. After our primitive life at Cape Armitage it +was wonderful to enter the precincts of our warm, dry Cape Evans +home. The interior space seemed palatial, the light resplendent, +and the comfort luxurious. It was very good to eat in civilised +fashion, to enjoy the first bath for three months, and have contact +with clean, dry clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom +soon banished their delight) are the treasured remembrance of every +Polar traveller. They throw into sharpest contrast the hardships of +the past and the comforts of the present, and for the time he revels +in the unaccustomed physical contentment that results. + +I was not many hours or even minutes in the hut before I was haled +round to observe in detail the transformation which had taken place +during my absence, and in which a very proper pride was taken by +those who had wrought it. + +Simpson's Corner was the first visited. Here the eye travelled over +numerous shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments, +electric batteries and switchboards, whilst the ear caught the +ticking of many clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally +the trembling note of an electric bell. But such sights and sounds +conveyed only an impression of the delicate methodical means by which +the daily and hourly variations of our weather conditions were being +recorded--a mere glimpse of the intricate arrangements of a first-class +meteorological station--the one and only station of that order which +has been established in Polar regions. It took me days and even months +to realise fully the aims of our meteorologist and the scientific +accuracy with which he was achieving them. When I did so to an adequate +extent I wrote some description of his work which will be found in the +following pages of this volume. [21] The first impression which I am +here describing was more confused; I appreciated only that by going to +'Simpson's Corner' one could ascertain at a glance how hard the wind +was blowing and had been blowing, how the barometer was varying, to +what degree of cold the thermometer had descended; if one were still +more inquisitive he could further inform himself as to the electrical +tension of the atmosphere and other matters of like import. That such +knowledge could be gleaned without a visit to the open air was an +obvious advantage to those who were clothing themselves to face it, +whilst the ability to study the variation of a storm without exposure +savoured of no light victory of mind over matter. + +The dark room stands next to the parasitologist's side of the bench +which flanks Sunny Jim's Corner--an involved sentence. To be more +exact, the physicists adjust their instruments and write up books at +a bench which projects at right angles to the end wall of the hut; +the opposite side of this bench is allotted to Atkinson, who is to +write with his back to the dark room. Atkinson being still absent +his corner was unfurnished, and my attention was next claimed by +the occupant of the dark room beyond Atkinson's limit. The art of +photography has never been so well housed within the Polar regions and +rarely without them. Such a palatial chamber for the development of +negatives and prints can only be justified by the quality of the work +produced in it, and is only justified in our case by the possession +of such an artist as Ponting. He was eager to show me the results +of his summer work, and meanwhile my eye took in the neat shelves +with their array of cameras, &c., the porcelain sink and automatic +water tap, the two acetylene gas burners with their shading screens, +and the general obviousness of all conveniences of the photographic +art. Here, indeed, was encouragement for the best results, and to +the photographer be all praise, for it is mainly his hand which has +executed the designs which his brain conceived. In this may be clearly +seen the advantage of a traveller's experience. Ponting has had to fend +for himself under primitive conditions in a new land; the result is a +'handy man' with every form of tool and in any circumstances. Thus, +when building operations were to the fore and mechanical labour +scarce, Ponting returned to the shell of his apartment with only the +raw material for completing it. In the shortest possible space of +time shelves and tanks were erected, doors hung and windows framed, +and all in a workmanlike manner commanding the admiration of all +beholders. It was well that speed could be commanded for such work, +since the fleeting hours of the summer season had been altogether too +few to be spared from the immediate service of photography. Ponting's +nervous temperament allowed no waste of time--for him fine weather +meant no sleep; he decided that lost opportunities should be as rare +as circumstances would permit. + +This attitude was now manifested in the many yards of cinematograph +film remaining on hand and yet greater number recorded as having been +sent back in the ship, in the boxes of negatives lying on the shelves +and a well-filled album of prints. + +Of the many admirable points in this work perhaps the most notable +are Ponting's eye for a picture and the mastery he has acquired of ice +subjects; the composition of most of his pictures is extraordinarily +good, he seems to know by instinct the exact value of foreground +and middle distance and of the introduction of 'life,' whilst with +more technical skill in the manipulation of screens and exposures he +emphasises the subtle shadows of the snow and reproduces its wondrously +transparent texture. He is an artist in love with his work, and it +was good to hear his enthusiasm for results of the past and plans of +the future. + +Long before I could gaze my fill at the contents of the dark room I +was led to the biologists' cubicle; Nelson and Day had from the first +decided to camp together, each having a habit of methodical neatness; +both were greatly relieved when the arrangement was approved, and +they were freed from the chance of an untidy companion. No attempt +had been made to furnish this cubicle before our departure on the +autumn journey, but now on my return I found it an example of the best +utilisation of space. The prevailing note was neatness; the biologist's +microscope stood on a neat bench surrounded by enamel dishes, vessels, +and books neatly arranged; behind him, when seated, rose two neat +bunks with neat, closely curtained drawers for clothing and neat +reflecting sconces for candles; overhead was a neat arrangement for +drying socks with several nets, neatly bestowed. The carpentering +to produce this effect had been of quite a high order, and was in +very marked contrast with that exhibited for the hasty erections in +other cubicles. The pillars and boarding of the bunks had carefully +finished edges and were stained to mahogany brown. Nelson's bench +is situated very conveniently under the largest of the hut windows, +and had also an acetylene lamp, so that both in summer and winter he +has all conveniences for his indoor work. + +Day appeared to have been unceasingly busy during my absence. Everyone +paid tribute to his mechanical skill and expressed gratitude for the +help he had given in adjusting instruments and generally helping +forward the scientific work. He was entirely responsible for the +heating, lighting, and ventilating arrangements, and as all these +appear satisfactory he deserved much praise. Particulars concerning +these arrangements I shall give later; as a first impression it is +sufficient to note that the warmth and lighting of the hut seemed as +good as could be desired, whilst for our comfort the air seemed fresh +and pure. Day had also to report some progress with the motor sledges, +but this matter also I leave for future consideration. + +My attention was very naturally turned from the heating arrangements +to the cooking stove and its custodian, Clissold. I had already +heard much of the surpassingly satisfactory meals which his art had +produced, and had indeed already a first experience of them. Now I +was introduced to the cook's corner with its range and ovens, its +pots and pans, its side tables and well-covered shelves. Much was to +be gathered therefrom, although a good meal by no means depends only +on kitchen conveniences. It was gratifying to learn that the stove had +proved itself economical and the patent fuel blocks a most convenient +and efficient substitute for coal. Save for the thickness of the +furnace cheeks and the size of the oven Clissold declared himself +wholly satisfied. He feared that the oven would prove too small to +keep up a constant supply of bread for all hands; nevertheless he +introduced me to this oven with an air of pride which I soon found +to be fully justified. For connected therewith was a contrivance +for which he was entirely responsible, and which in its ingenuity +rivalled any of which the hut could boast. The interior of the oven +was so arranged that the 'rising' of the bread completed an electric +circuit, thereby ringing a bell and switching on a red lamp. Clissold +had realised that the continuous ringing of the bell would not be +soothing to the nerves of our party, nor the continuous burning of +the lamp calculated to prolong its life, and he had therefore added +the clockwork mechanism which automatically broke the circuit after +a short interval of time; further, this clockwork mechanism could be +made to control the emersion of the same warning signals at intervals +of time varied according to the desire of the operator;--thus because, +when in bed, he would desire a signal at short periods, but if absent +from the hut he would wish to know at a glance what had happened +when he returned. Judged by any standard it was a remarkably pretty +little device, but when I learnt that it had been made from odds and +ends, such as a cog-wheel or spring here and a cell or magnet there, +begged from other departments, I began to realise that we had a very +exceptional cook. Later when I found that Clissold was called in to +consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor and that he was capable of +constructing a dog sledge out of packing cases, I was less surprised, +because I knew by this time that he had had considerable training in +mechanical work before he turned his attention to pots and pans. + +My first impressions include matters to which I was naturally eager to +give an early half-hour, namely the housing of our animals. I found +herein that praise was as justly due to our Russian boys as to my +fellow Englishmen. + +Anton with Lashly's help had completed the furnishing of the +stables. Neat stalls occupied the whole length of the 'lean to,' the +sides so boarded that sprawling legs could not be entangled beneath +and the front well covered with tin sheet to defeat the 'cribbers.' I +could but sigh again to think of the stalls that must now remain empty, +whilst appreciating that there was ample room for the safe harbourage +of the ten beasts that remain, be the winter never so cold or the +winds so wild. + +Later we have been able to give double space to all but two or three +of our animals, in which they can lie down if they are so inclined. + +The ponies look fairly fit considering the low diet on which they +have been kept; their coats were surprisingly long and woolly in +contrast with those of the animals I had left at Hut Point. At this +time they were being exercised by Lashly, Anton, Demetri, Hooper, +and Clissold, and as a rule were ridden, the sea having only recently +frozen. The exercise ground had lain on the boulder-strewn sand of +the home beach and extending towards the Skua lake; and across these +stretches I soon saw barebacked figures dashing at speed, and not +a few amusing incidents in which horse and rider parted with abrupt +lack of ceremony. I didn't think this quite the most desirable form +of exercise for the beasts, but decided to leave matters as they were +till our pony manager returned. + +Demetri had only five or six dogs left in charge, but these looked +fairly fit, all things considered, and it was evident the boy was bent +on taking every care of them, for he had not only provided shelters, +but had built a small 'lean to' which would serve as a hospital for +any animal whose stomach or coat needed nursing. + +Such were in broad outline the impressions I received on my first +return to our home station; they were almost wholly pleasant and, +as I have shown, in happy contrast with the fears that had assailed +me on the homeward route. As the days went by I was able to fill in +the detail in equally pleasant fashion, to watch the development of +fresh arrangements and the improvement of old ones. Finally, in this +way I was brought to realise what an extensive and intricate but +eminently satisfactory organisation I had made myself responsible for. + +_Notes on Flyleaf of Fresh MS. Book_ + +Genus Homo, Species Sapiens! + +FLOTSAM + +Wm. Barents' house in Novaya Zemlya built 1596. Found by Capt. Carlsen +1871 (275 years later) intact, everything inside as left! What of +this hut? + +The ocean girt continent. + +'Might have seemed almost heroic if any higher end than excessive +love of gain and traffic had animated the design.'--MILTON. + +'He is not worthy to live at all, who, for fear and danger of death +shunneth his country's service or his own honour, since death is +inevitable and the fame of virtue immortal.'--SIR HUMPHREY GILBERT. + +There is no part of the world that _can_ not be reached by man. When +the 'can be' is turned to 'has been' the Geographical Society will +have altered its status. + + +'At the whirring loom of time unawed +I weave the living garment of God.'--GOETHE. + + +By all means think yourself big but don't think everyone else small! + +The man who knows everyone's job isn't much good at his own. + +'When you are attacked unjustly avoid the appearance of evil, but +avoid also the appearance of being too good!' 'A man can't be too good, +but he can appear too good.' + +_Monday, April_ 17.--Started from C. Evans with two 10 ft. sledges. + + + Party 1. Self, Lashly, Day, Demetri. + ,, 2. Bowers, Nelson, Crean, Hooper. + + +We left at 8 A.M., taking our personal equipment, a week's provision +of sledging food, and butter, oatmeal, flour, lard, chocolate, &c., +for the hut. + +Two of the ponies hauled the sledges to within a mile of the Glacier +Tongue; the wind, which had been north, here suddenly shifted to S.E., +very biting. (The wind remained north at C. Evans during the afternoon, +the ponies walked back into it.) Sky overcast, very bad light. Found +the place to get on the glacier, but then lost the track-crossed +more or less direct, getting amongst many cracks. Came down in bay +near the open water--stumbled over the edge to an easy drift. More +than once on these trips I as leader have suddenly disappeared from +the sight of the others, affording some consternation till they got +close enough to see what has happened. The pull over sea ice was very +heavy and in face of strong wind and drift. Every member of the party +was frostbitten about the face, several with very cold feet. Pushed +on after repairs. Found drift streaming off the ice cliff, a new +cornice formed and our rope buried at both ends. The party getting +cold, I decided to camp, have tea, and shift foot gear. Whilst tea +was preparing, Bowers and I went south, then north, along the cliffs +to find a place to ascend--nearly everywhere ascent seemed impossible +in the vicinity of Hulton Rocks or north, but eventually we found an +overhanging cornice close to our rope. + +After lunch we unloaded a sledge, which, held high on end by four men, +just reached the edge of the cornice. Clambering up over backs and +up sledge I used an ice-axe to cut steps over the cornice and thus +managed to get on top, then cut steps and surmounted the edge of the +cornice. Helped Bowers up with the rope; others followed--then the +gear was hauled up piecemeal. For Crean, the last man up, we lowered +the sledge over the cornice and used a bowline in the other end of +the rope on top of it. He came up grinning with delight, and we all +thought the ascent rather a cunning piece of work. It was fearfully +cold work, but everyone working with rare intelligence, we eventually +got everything up and repacked the sledge; glad to get in harness +again. Then a heavy pull up a steep slope in wretched light, making +detour to left to avoid crevasses. We reached the top and plodded on +past the craters as nearly as possible as on the outward route. The +party was pretty exhausted and very wet with perspiration. Approaching +Castle Rock the weather and light improved. Camped on Barrier Slope +north of Castle Rock about 9 P.M. Night cold but calm, -38° during +night; slept pretty well. + +_Tuesday, April_ 18.--Hut Point. Good moonlight at 7 A.M.--had +breakfast. Broke camp very quickly--Lashly splendid at camp work as of +old--very heavy pull up to Castle Rock, sweated much. This sweating in +cold temperature is a serious drawback. Reached Hut Point 1 P.M. Found +all well in excellent spirits--didn't seem to want us much!! + +Party reported very bad weather since we left, cold blizzard, then +continuous S.W. wind with -20° and below. The open water was right +up to Hut Point, wind absolutely preventing all freezing along +shore. Wilson reported skua gull seen Monday. + +Found party much shorter of blubber than I had expected--they were +only just keeping themselves supplied with a seal killed two days +before and one as we arrived. + +Actually less fast ice than when we left! + +_Wednesday, April_ 19.--Hut Point. Calm during night, sea froze over +at noon, 4 1/2 inches thick off Hut Point, showing how easily the +sea will freeze when the chance is given. + +Three seals reported on the ice; all hands out after breakfast and the +liver and blubber of all three seals were brought in. This relieves +one of a little anxiety, leaving a twelve days' stock, in which time +other seals ought to be coming up. I am making arrangements to start +back to-morrow, but at present it is overcast and wind coming up from +the south. This afternoon, all ice frozen last night went out quietly; +the sea tried to freeze behind it, but the wind freshened soon. The +ponies were exercised yesterday and to-day; they look pretty fit, +but their coats are not so good as those in winter quarters--they +want fatty foods. + +Am preparing to start to-morrow, satisfied that the _Discovery_ Hut +is very comfortable and life very liveable in it. The dogs are much +the same, all looking pretty fit except Vaida and Rabchick--neither of +which seem to get good coats. I am greatly struck with the advantages +of experience in Crean and Lashly for all work about camps. + +_Thursday, April_ 20.--Hut Point. Everything ready for starting this +morning, but of course it 'blizzed.' Weather impossible--much wind +and drift from south. Wind turned to S.E. in afternoon--temperatures +low. Went for walk to Cape Armitage, but it is really very +unpleasant. The wind blowing round the Cape is absolutely blighting, +force 7 and temperature below -30°. Sea a black cauldron covered with +dark frost smoke. No ice can form in such weather. + +_Friday, April_ 21.--Started homeward at 10.30. + +Left Meares in charge of station with Demetri to help with dogs, +Lashly and Keohane to look out for ponies, Nelson and Day and Forde +to get some idea of the life and experience. Homeward party, therefore: + + + Self Bowers + Wilson Oates + Atkinson Cherry-Garrard + Crean Hooper + + +As usual all hands pulled up Ski slope, which we took without a +halt. Lashly and Demetri came nearly to Castle Rock--very cold +side wind and some frostbites. We reached the last downward slope +about 2.30; at the cliff edge found the cornice gone--heavy wind and +drift worse than before, if anything. We bustled things, and after +tantalising delays with the rope got Bowers and some others on the +floe, then lowered the sledges packed; three men, including Crean and +myself, slid down last on the Alpine rope--doubled and taken round +an ash stave, so that we were able to unreeve the end and recover +the rope--we recovered also most of the old Alpine rope, all except a +piece buried in snow on the sea ice and dragged down under the slush, +just like the _Discovery_ boats; I could not have supposed this could +happen in so short a time._17_ + +By the time all stores were on the floe, with swirling drift about +us, everyone was really badly cold--one of those moments for quick +action. We harnessed and dashed for the shelter of the cliffs; up +tents, and hot tea as quick as possible; after this and some shift of +foot gear all were much better. Heavy plod over the sea ice, starting +at 4.30--very bad light on the glacier, and we lost our way as usual, +stumbling into many crevasses, but finally descended in the old place; +by this time sweating much. Crean reported our sledge pulling much more +heavily than the other one. Marched on to Little Razor Back Island +without halt, our own sledge dragging fearfully. Crean said there +was great difference in the sledges, though loads were equal. Bowers +politely assented when I voiced this sentiment, but I'm sure he and his +party thought it the plea of tired men. However there was nothing like +proof, and he readily assented to change sledges. The difference was +really extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight compared +with the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters regardless +of how much we perspired. We arrived at the hut (two miles away) ten +minutes ahead of the others, who by this time were quite convinced +as to the difference in the sledges. + +The difference was only marked when pulling over the salt-covered +sea ice; on snow the sledges seemed pretty much the same. It is due +to the grain of the wood in the runners and is worth looking into. + +We all arrived bathed in sweat--our garments were soaked through, and +as we took off our wind clothes showers of ice fell on the floor. The +accumulation was almost incredible and shows the whole trouble of +sledging in cold weather. It would have been very uncomfortable to +have camped in the open under such conditions, and assuredly a winter +and spring party cannot afford to get so hot if they wish to retain +any semblance of comfort. + +Our excellent cook had just the right meal prepared for us--an enormous +dish of rice and figs, and cocoa in a bucket! The hut party were all +very delighted to see us, and the fittings and comforts of the hut +are amazing to the newcomers. + +_Saturday, April_ 22.--Cape Evans, Winter Quarters. The sledging +season is at an end. It's good to be back in spite of all the losses +we have sustained. + +To-day we enjoy a very exceptional calm. The sea is freezing over +of course, but unfortunately our view from Observatory Hill is very +limited. Oates and the rest are exercising the ponies. I have been +sorting my papers and getting ready for the winter work. + + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Work and the Workers + +_Sunday, April_ 23.--Winter Quarters. The last day of the sun and +a very glorious view of its golden light over the Barne Glacier. We +could not see the sun itself on account of the Glacier, the fine ice +cliffs of which were in deep shadow under the rosy rays. + +_Impression_.--The long mild twilight which like a silver clasp unites +to-day with yesterday; when morning and evening sit together hand in +hand beneath the starless sky of midnight. + +It blew hard last night and most of the young ice has gone as +expected. Patches seem to be remaining south of the Glacier Tongue and +the Island and off our own bay. In this very queer season it appears +as though the final freezing is to be reached by gradual increments +to the firmly established ice. + +Had Divine Service. Have only seven hymn-books, those brought on +shore for our first Service being very stupidly taken back to the ship. + +I begin to think we are too comfortable in the hut and hope it will +not make us slack; but it is good to see everyone in such excellent +spirits--so far not a rift in the social arrangements. + +_Monday, April 24_.--A night watchman has been instituted mainly for +the purpose of observing the aurora, of which the displays have been +feeble so far. The observer is to look round every hour or oftener +if there is aught to be seen. He is allowed cocoa and sardines with +bread and butter--the cocoa can be made over an acetylene Bunsen +burner, part of Simpson's outfit. I took the first turn last night; +the remainder of the afterguard follow in rotation. The long night +hours give time to finish up a number of small tasks--the hut remains +quite warm though the fires are out. + +Simpson has been practising with balloons during our absence. This +morning he sent one up for trial. The balloon is of silk and has a +capacity of 1 cubic metre. It is filled with hydrogen gas, which is +made in a special generator. The generation is a simple process. A +vessel filled with water has an inverted vessel within it; a pipe +is led to the balloon from the latter and a tube of india-rubber is +attached which contains calcium hydrate. By tipping the tube the amount +of calcium hydrate required can be poured into the generator. As the +gas is made it passes into the balloon or is collected in the inner +vessel, which acts as a bell jar if the stop cock to the balloon +is closed. + +The arrangements for utilising the balloon are very pretty. + +An instrument weighing only 2 1/4 oz. and recording the temperature and +pressure is attached beneath a small flag and hung 10 to 15 ft. below +the balloon with balloon silk thread; this silk thread is of such fine +quality that 5 miles of it only weighs 4 ozs., whilst its breaking +strain is 1 1/4 lbs. The lower part of the instrument is again attached +to the silk thread, which is cunningly wound on coned bobbins from +which the balloon unwinds it without hitch or friction as it ascends. + +In order to spare the silk any jerk as the balloon is released two +pieces of string united with a slow match carry the strain between +the instrument and the balloon until the slow match is consumed. + +The balloon takes about a quarter of an hour to inflate; the slow +match is then lit, and the balloon released; with a weight of 8 +oz. and a lifting power of 2 1/2 lbs. it rises rapidly. After it +is lost to ordinary vision it can be followed with glasses as mile +after mile of thread runs out. Theoretically, if strain is put on the +silk thread it should break between the instrument and the balloon, +leaving the former free to drop, when the thread can be followed up +and the instrument with its record recovered. + +To-day this was tried with a dummy instrument, but the thread broke +close to the bobbins. In the afternoon a double thread was tried, +and this acted successfully. + +To-day I allotted the ponies for exercise. Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, +Hooper, Clissold, P.O. Evans, and Crean take animals, besides Anton +and Oates. I have had to warn people that they will not necessarily +lead the ponies which they now tend. + +Wilson is very busy making sketches. + +_Tuesday, April_ 28.--It was comparatively calm all day yesterday +and last night, and there have been light airs only from the south +to-day. The temperature, at first comparatively high at -5°, has +gradually fallen to -13°; as a result the Strait has frozen over at +last and it looks as though the Hut Point party should be with us +before very long. If the blizzards hold off for another three days the +crossing should be perfectly safe, but I don't expect Meares to hurry. + +Although we had very good sunset effects at Hut Point, Ponting and +others were much disappointed with the absence of such effects at Cape +Evans. This was probably due to the continual interference of frost +smoke; since our return here and especially yesterday and to-day the +sky and sea have been glorious in the afternoon. + +Ponting has taken some coloured pictures, but the result is not very +satisfactory and the plates are much spotted; Wilson is very busy +with pencil and brush. + +Atkinson is unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and +incubators. Wright is wrestling with the electrical instruments. Evans +is busy surveying the Cape and its vicinity. Oates is reorganising +the stable, making bigger stalls, &c. Cherry-Garrard is building a +stone house for taxidermy and with a view to getting hints for making +a shelter at Cape Crozier during the winter. Debenham and Taylor are +taking advantage of the last of the light to examine the topography +of the peninsula. In fact, everyone is extraordinarily busy. + +I came back with the impression that we should not find our winter +walks so interesting as those at Hut Point, but I'm rapidly altering my +opinion; we may miss the hill climbing here, but in every direction +there is abundance of interest. To-day I walked round the shores +of the North Bay examining the kenyte cliffs and great masses of +morainic material of the Barne Glacier, then on under the huge blue +ice cliffs of the Glacier itself. With the sunset lights, deep shadows, +the black islands and white bergs it was all very beautiful. + +Simpson and Bowers sent up a balloon to-day with a double thread +and instrument attached; the line was checked at about 3 miles, +and soon after the instrument was seen to disengage. The balloon at +first went north with a light southerly breeze till it reached 300 +or 400 ft., then it turned to the south but did not travel rapidly; +when 2 miles of thread had gone it seemed to be going north again or +rising straight upward. + +In the afternoon Simpson and Bowers went to recover their treasure, +but somewhere south of Inaccessible Island they found the thread +broken and the light was not good enough to continue the search. + +The sides of the galley fire have caved in--there should have been +cheeks to prevent this; we got some fire clay cement to-day and +plastered up the sides. I hope this will get over the difficulty, +but have some doubt. + +_Wednesday, April_ 26.--Calm. Went round Cape Evans--remarkable +effects of icicles on the ice foot, formed by spray of southerly gales. + +_Thursday, April_ 27.--The fourth day in succession without wind, +but overcast. Light snow has fallen during the day--to-night the wind +comes from the north. + +We should have our party back soon. The temperature remains about -5° +and the ice should be getting thicker with rapidity. + +Went round the bergs off Cape Evans--they are very beautiful, +especially one which is pierced to form a huge arch. It will be +interesting to climb around these monsters as the winter proceeds. + +To-day I have organised a series of lectures for the winter; the people +seem keen and it ought to be exceedingly interesting to discuss so +many diverse subjects with experts. + +We have an extraordinary diversity of talent and training in our +people; it would be difficult to imagine a company composed of +experiences which differed so completely. We find one hut contains +an experience of every country and every clime! What an assemblage +of motley knowledge! + +_Friday, April_ 28.--Another comparatively calm day--temp. -12°, +clear sky. Went to ice caves on glacier S. of Cape; these are really +very wonderful. Ponting took some photographs with long exposure +and Wright got some very fine ice crystals. The Glacier Tongue comes +close around a high bluff headland of kenyte; it is much cracked and +curiously composed of a broad wedge of white névé over blue ice. The +faults in the dust strata in these surfaces are very mysterious and +should be instructive in the explanation of certain ice problems. + +It looks as though the sea had frozen over for good. If no further +blizzard clears the Strait it can be said for this season that: + + + The Bays froze over on March 25. + The Strait ,, ,, ,, April 22. + ,, ,, dissipated April 29. + ,, ,, froze over on April 30. + + +Later. The Hut Point record of freezing is: + + + Night 24th-25th. Ice forming mid-day 25th, opened + with leads. + 26th. Ice all out, sound apparently open. + 27th. Strait apparently freezing. + Early 28th. Ice over whole Strait. + 29th. All ice gone. + 30th. Freezing over. + May 4th. Broad lead opened along land to Castle + Rock, 300 to 400 yds. wide. + + +Party intended to start on 11th, if weather fine. + +Very fine display of aurora to-night, one of the brightest I have ever +seen--over Erebus; it is conceded that a red tinge is seen after the +movement of light. + +_Saturday, April_ 29.--Went to Inaccessible Island with Wilson. The +agglomerates, kenytes, and lavas are much the same as those at Cape +Evans. The Island is 540 ft. high, and it is a steep climb to reach +the summit over very loose sand and boulders. From the summit one +has an excellent view of our surroundings and the ice in the Strait, +which seemed to extend far beyond Cape Royds, but had some ominous +cracks beyond the Island. + +We climbed round the ice foot after descending the hill and found +it much broken up on the south side; the sea spray had washed far up +on it. + +It is curious to find that all the heavy seas come from the south +and that it is from this direction that protection is most needed. + +There is some curious weathering on the ice blocks on the N. side; +also the snow drifts show interesting dirt bands. The island had a good +sprinkling of snow, which will all be gone, I expect, to-night. For +as we reached the summit we saw a storm approaching from the south; +it had blotted out the Bluff, and we watched it covering Black Island, +then Hut Point and Castle Rock. By the time we started homeward it +was upon us, making a harsh chatter as it struck the high rocks and +sweeping along the drift on the floe. + +The blow seems to have passed over to-night and the sky is clear +again, but I much fear the ice has gone out in the Strait. There is +an ominous black look to the westward. + +_Sunday, April_ 30.--As I feared last night, the morning light revealed +the havoc made in the ice by yesterday's gale. From Wind Vane Hill (66 +feet) it appeared that the Strait had not opened beyond the island, +but after church I went up the Ramp with Wilson and steadily climbed +over the Glacier ice to a height of about 650 feet. From this elevation +one could see that a broad belt of sea ice had been pushed bodily +to seaward, and it was evident that last night the whole stretch of +water from Hut Point to Turtle Island must have been open--so that +our poor people at Hut Point are just where they were. + +The only comfort is that the Strait is already frozen again; but what +is to happen if every blow clears the sea like this? + +Had an interesting walk. One can go at least a mile up the glacier +slope before coming to crevasses, and it does not appear that these +would be serious for a good way farther. The view is magnificent, +and on a clear day like this, one still enjoys some hours of daylight, +or rather twilight, when it is possible to see everything clearly. + +Have had talks of the curious cones which are such a feature of +the Ramp--they are certainly partly produced by ice and partly by +weathering. The ponds and various forms of ice grains interest us. + +To-night have been naming all the small land features of our vicinity. + +_Tuesday, May_ 2.--It was calm yesterday. A balloon was sent up in +the morning, but only reached a mile in height before the instrument +was detached (by slow match). + +In the afternoon went out with Bowers and his pony to pick up +instrument, which was close to the shore in the South Bay. Went on past +Inaccessible Island. The ice outside the bergs has grown very thick, 14 +inches or more, but there were freshly frozen pools beyond the Island. + +In the evening Wilson opened the lecture series with a paper on +'Antarctic Flying Birds.' Considering the limits of the subject the +discussion was interesting. The most attractive point raised was +that of pigmentation. Does the absence of pigment suggest absence of +reserve energy? Does it increase the insulating properties of the +hair or feathers? Or does the animal clothed in white radiate less +of his internal heat? The most interesting example of Polar colouring +here is the increased proportion of albinos amongst the giant petrels +found in high latitudes. + +To-day have had our first game of football; a harassing southerly +wind sprang up, which helped my own side to the extent of three goals. + +This same wind came with a clear sky and jumped up and down in force +throughout the afternoon, but has died away to-night. In the afternoon +I saw an ominous lead outside the Island which appeared to extend a +long way south. I'm much afraid it may go across our pony track from +Hut Point. I am getting anxious to have the hut party back, and begin +to wonder if the ice to the south will ever hold in permanently now +that the Glacier Tongue has gone. + +_Wednesday, May_ 3.--Another calm day, very beautiful and clear. Wilson +and Bowers took our few dogs for a run in a sledge. Walked myself out +over ice in North Bay--there are a good many cracks and pressures +with varying thickness of ice, showing how tide and wind shift the +thin sheets--the newest leads held young ice of 4 inches. + +The temperature remains high, the lowest yesterday -13°; it should +be much lower with such calm weather and clear skies. A strange fact +is now very commonly noticed: in calm weather there is usually a +difference of 4° or 5° between the temperature at the hut and that +on Wind Vane Hill (64 feet), the latter being the higher. This shows +an inverted temperature. + +As I returned from my walk the southern sky seemed to grow darker, +and later stratus cloud was undoubtedly spreading up from that +direction--this at about 5 P.M. About 7 a moderate north wind sprang +up. This seemed to indicate a southerly blow, and at about 9 the wind +shifted to that quarter and blew gustily, 25 to 35 m.p.h. One cannot +see the result on the Strait, but I fear it means that the ice has +gone out again in places. The wind dropped as suddenly as it had +arisen soon after midnight. + +In the evening Simpson gave us his first meteorological lecture--the +subject, 'Coronas, Halos, Rainbows, and Auroras.' He has a remarkable +power of exposition and taught me more of these phenomena in the hour +than I had learnt by all previous interested inquiries concerning them. + +I note one or two points concerning each phenomenon. + +_Corona_.--White to brown inside ring called Aureola--outside +are sometimes seen two or three rings of prismatic light in +addition. Caused by diffraction of light round drops of water or ice +crystals; diameter of rings inversely proportionate to size of drops +or crystals--mixed sizes of ditto causes aureola without rings. + +_Halos_.--Caused by refraction and reflection through and from ice +crystals. In this connection the hexagonal, tetrahedonal type of +crystallisation is first to be noted; then the infinite number of +forms in which this can be modified together with result of fractures: +two forms predominate, the plate and the needle; these forms falling +through air assume definite position--the plate falls horizontally +swaying to and fro, the needle turns rapidly about its longer axis, +which remains horizontal. Simpson showed excellent experiments to +illustrate; consideration of these facts and refraction of light +striking crystals clearly leads to explanation of various complicated +halo phenomena such as recorded and such as seen by us on the Great +Barrier, and draws attention to the critical refraction angles of 32° +and 46°, the radius of inner and outer rings, the position of mock +suns, contra suns, zenith circles, &c. + +Further measurements are needed; for instance of streamers from mock +suns and examination of ice crystals. (Record of ice crystals seen +on Barrier Surface.) + +_Rainbows_.--Caused by reflection and refraction from and through +_drops of water_--colours vary with size of drops, the smaller the +drop the lighter the colours and nearer to the violet end of the +spectrum--hence white rainbow as seen on the Barrier, very small drops. + +Double Bows--diameters must be 84° and 100°--again from laws of +refraction--colours: inner, red outside; outer, red inside--i.e. reds +come together. + +Wanted to see more rainbows on Barrier. In this connection a good +rainbow was seen to N.W. in February from winter quarters. Reports +should note colours and relative width of bands of colour. + +_Iridescent Clouds_.--Not yet understood; observations required, +especially angular distance from the sun. + +_Auroras_.--Clearly most frequent and intense in years of maximum +sun spots; this argues connection with the sun. + +Points noticed requiring confirmation: + +Arch: centre of arch in magnetic meridian. + +Shafts: take direction of dipping needle. + +Bands and Curtains with convolutions--not understood. + +Corona: shafts meeting to form. + +Notes required on movement and direction of movement--colours +seen--supposed red and possibly green rays preceding or accompanying +movement. Auroras are sometimes accompanied by magnetic storms, +but not always, and vice versa--in general significant signs of +some connection--possible common dependents on a third factor. The +phenomenon further connects itself in form with lines of magnetic +force about the earth. + +(Curious apparent connection between spectrum of aurora and that of +a heavy gas, 'argon.' May be coincidence.) + +Two theories enunciated: + +_Arrhenius_.--Bombardments of minute charged particles from the sun +gathered into the magnetic field of the earth. + +_Birkeland_.--Bombardment of free negative electrons gathered into +the magnetic field of the earth. + +It is experimentally shown that minute drops of water are deflected +by light. + +It is experimentally shown that ions are given off by dried calcium, +which the sun contains. + +Professor Störmer has collected much material showing connection of +the phenomenon with lines of magnetic force. + +_Thursday, May_ 4.--From the small height of Wind Vane Hill (64 feet) +it was impossible to say if the ice in the Strait had been out after +yesterday's wind. The sea was frozen, but after twelve hours' calm it +would be in any case. The dark appearance of the ice is noticeable, but +this has been the case of late since the light is poor; little snow has +fallen or drifted and the ice flowers are very sparse and scattered. + +We had an excellent game of football again to-day--the exercise is +delightful and we get very warm. Atkinson is by far the best player, +but Hooper, P.O. Evans, and Crean are also quite good. It has been +calm all day again. + +Went over the sea ice beyond the Arch berg; the ice half a mile beyond +is only 4 inches. I think this must have been formed since the blow +of yesterday, that is, in sixteen hours or less. + +Such rapid freezing is a hopeful sign, but the prompt dissipation of +the floe under a southerly wind is distinctly the reverse. + +I am anxious to get our people back from Hut Point, mainly on account +of the two ponies; with so much calm weather there should have been +no difficulty for the party in keeping up its supply of blubber; +an absence of which is the only circumstance likely to discomfort it. + +The new ice over which I walked is extraordinarily slippery and +free from efflorescence. I think this must be a further sign of +rapid formation. + +_Friday, May_ 5.--Another calm day following a quiet night. Once +or twice in the night a light northerly wind, soon dying away. The +temperature down to -12°. What is the meaning of this comparative +warmth? As usual in calms the Wind Vane Hill temperature is 3° or 4° +higher. It is delightful to contemplate the amount of work which is +being done at the station. No one is idle--all hands are full, and one +cannot doubt that the labour will be productive of remarkable result. + +I do not think there can be any life quite so demonstrative of +character as that which we had on these expeditions. One sees a +remarkable reassortment of values. Under ordinary conditions it is so +easy to carry a point with a little bounce; self-assertion is a mask +which covers many a weakness. As a rule we have neither the time nor +the desire to look beneath it, and so it is that commonly we accept +people on their own valuation. Here the outward show is nothing, +it is the inward purpose that counts. So the 'gods' dwindle and the +humble supplant them. Pretence is useless. + +One sees Wilson busy with pencil and colour box, rapidly and steadily +adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at intervals filling +the gaps in his zoological work of _Discovery_ times; withal ready +and willing to give advice and assistance to others at all times; +his sound judgment appreciated and therefore a constant referee. + +Simpson, master of his craft, untiringly attentive to the working +of his numerous self-recording instruments, observing all changes +with scientific acumen, doing the work of two observers at least +and yet ever seeking to correlate an expanded scope. So the current +meteorological and magnetic observations are taken as never before +by Polar expeditions. + +Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his mind +with the ice problems of this wonderful region. He has taken the +electrical work in hand with all its modern interest of association +with radio-activity. + +Evans, with a clear-minded zeal in his own work, does it with all the +success of result which comes from the taking of pains. Therefrom +we derive a singularly exact preservation of time--an important +consideration to all, but especially necessary for the physical +work. Therefrom also, and including more labour, we have an accurate +survey of our immediate surroundings and can trust to possess the +correctly mapped results of all surveying data obtained. He has Gran +for assistant. + +Taylor's intellect is omnivorous and versatile--his mind is unceasingly +active, his grasp wide. Whatever he writes will be of interest--his +pen flows well. + +Debenham's is clearer. Here we have a well-trained, sturdy worker, with +a quiet meaning that carries conviction; he realises the conceptions +of thoroughness and conscientiousness. + +To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working of our +station. He has a natural method in line with which all arrangements +fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly adjusted to supply, +and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing the length of time +which each of our possessions will last us and the assurance that +there can be no waste. Active mind and active body were never more +happily blended. It is a restless activity, admitting no idle moments +and ever budding into new forms. + +So we see the balloons ascending under his guidance and anon he is +away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such a task +completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out again with +the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because for the moment +there is no one else to care for these animals. Now in a similar +manner he is spreading thermometer screens to get comparative readings +with the home station. He is for the open air, seemingly incapable +of realising any discomfort from it, and yet his hours within doors +spent with equal profit. For he is intent on tracking the problems +of sledging food and clothing to their innermost bearings and is +becoming an authority on past records. This will be no small help to +me and one which others never could have given. + +Adjacent to the physicist's corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly +pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world. The +laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are +his field of labour. Constantly he comes to ask if I would like to +see some new form and I am taken to see some protozoa or ascidian +isolated on the slide plate of his microscope. The fishes themselves +are comparatively new to science; it is strange that their parasites +should have been under investigation so soon. + +Atkinson's bench with its array of microscopes, test-tubes, spirit +lamps, &c., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater +part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic +enthusiasm. This world of ours is a different one to him than it is +to the rest of us--he gauges it by its picturesqueness--his joy is to +reproduce its pictures artistically, his grief to fail to do so. No +attitude could be happier for the work which he has undertaken, and one +cannot doubt its productiveness. I would not imply that he is out of +sympathy with the works of others, which is far from being the case, +but that his energies centre devotedly on the minutiae of his business. + +Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet +workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness +to help everyone. 'One has caught glimpses of him in tight places; +sound all through and pretty hard also.' Indoors he is editing our +Polar journal, out of doors he is busy making trial stone huts and +blubber stoves, primarily with a view to the winter journey to Cape +Crozier, but incidentally these are instructive experiments for any +party which may get into difficulty by being cut off from the home +station. It is very well to know how best to use the scant resources +that nature provides in these regions. In this connection I have +been studying our Arctic library to get details concerning snow hut +building and the implements used for it. + +Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really devoted to their +care, and I believe will produce them in the best possible form for the +sledging season. Opening out the stores, installing a blubber stove, +&c., has kept _him_ busy, whilst his satellite, Anton, is ever at +work in the stables--an excellent little man. + +Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt boots, +and generally working on sledging kit. In fact there is no one idle, +and no one who has the least prospect of idleness. + +_Saturday, May_ 6.--Two more days of calm, interrupted with occasional +gusts. + +Yesterday, Friday evening, Taylor gave an introductory lecture on +his remarkably fascinating subject--modern physiography. + +These modern physiographers set out to explain the forms of +land erosion on broad common-sense lines, heedless of geological +support. They must, in consequence, have their special language. River +courses, they say, are not temporary--in the main they are archaic. In +conjunction with land elevations they have worked through _geographical +cycles_, perhaps many. In each geographical cycle they have advanced +from _infantile_ V-shaped forms; the courses broaden and deepen, the +bank slopes reduce in angle as maturer stages are reached until the +level of sea surface is more and more nearly approximated. In _senile_ +stages the river is a broad sluggish stream flowing over a plain with +little inequality of level. The cycle has formed a _Peneplain._ +Subsequently, with fresh elevation, a new cycle is commenced. So much +for the simple case, but in fact nearly all cases are modified by +unequal elevations due to landslips, by variation in hardness of rock, +&c. Hence modification in positions of river courses and the fact of +different parts of a single river being in different stages of cycle. + +Taylor illustrated his explanations with examples: The Red River, +Canada--Plain flat though elevated, water lies in pools, river flows in +'V' 'infantile' form. + +The Rhine Valley--The gorgeous scenery from Mainz down due to infantile +form in recently elevated region. + +The Russian Plains--Examples of 'senility.' + +Greater complexity in the Blue Mountains--these are undoubted earth +folds; the Nepean River flows through an offshoot of a fold, the +valley being made as the fold was elevated--curious valleys made by +erosion of hard rock overlying soft. + +River _piracy--Domestic_, the short circuiting of a _meander_, such +as at Coo in the Ardennes; _Foreign_, such as Shoalhaven River, +Australia--stream has captured river. + +Landslips have caused the isolation of Lake George and altered the +watershed of the whole country to the south. + +Later on Taylor will deal with the effects of ice and lead us to the +formation of the scenery of our own region, and so we shall have much +to discuss. + +_Sunday, May_ 7.--Daylight now is very short. One wonders why the Hut +Point party does not come. Bowers and Cherry-Garrard have set up a +thermometer screen containing maximum thermometers and thermographs on +the sea floe about 3/4' N.W. of the hut. Another smaller one is to go +on top of the Ramp. They took the screen out on one of Day's bicycle +wheel carriages and found it ran very easily over the salty ice where +the sledges give so much trouble. This vehicle is not easily turned, +but may be very useful before there is much snowfall. + +Yesterday a balloon was sent up and reached a very good height +(probably 2 to 3 miles) before the instrument disengaged; the balloon +went almost straight up and the silk fell in festoons over the +rocky part of the Cape, affording a very difficult clue to follow; +but whilst Bowers was following it, Atkinson observed the instrument +fall a few hundred yards out on the Bay--it was recovered and gives +the first important record of upper air temperature. + +Atkinson and Crean put out the fish trap in about 3 fathoms of water +off the west beach; both yesterday morning and yesterday evening +when the trap was raised it contained over forty fish, whilst this +morning and this evening the catches in the same spot have been from +twenty to twenty-five. We had fish for breakfast this morning, but +an even more satisfactory result of the catches has been revealed +by Atkinson's microscope. He had discovered quite a number of new +parasites and found work to last quite a long time. + +Last night it came to my turn to do night watchman again, so that I +shall be glad to have a good sleep to-night. + +Yesterday we had a game of football; it is pleasant to mess about, +but the light is failing. + +Clissold is still producing food novelties; to-night we had galantine +of seal--it was _excellent_. + +_Monday, May_ 8--Tuesday, May 9.--As one of the series of lectures I +gave an outline of my plans for next season on Monday evening. Everyone +was interested naturally. I could not but hint that in my opinion +the problem of reaching the Pole can best be solved by relying on +the ponies and man haulage. With this sentiment the whole company +appeared to be in sympathy. Everyone seems to distrust the dogs when +it comes to glacier and summit. I have asked everyone to give thought +to the problem, to freely discuss it, and bring suggestions to my +notice. It's going to be a tough job; that is better realised the +more one dives into it. + +To-day (Tuesday) Debenham has been showing me his photographs +taken west. With Wright's and Taylor's these will make an extremely +interesting series--the ice forms especially in the region of the +Koettlitz glacier are unique. + +The Strait has been frozen over a week. I cannot understand why the +Hut Point party doesn't return. The weather continues wonderfully +calm though now looking a little unsettled. Perhaps the unsettled +look stops the party, or perhaps it waits for the moon, which will +be bright in a day or two. + +Any way I wish it would return, and shall not be free from anxiety +till it does. + +Cherry-Garrard is experimenting in stone huts and with blubber +fires--all with a view to prolonging the stay at Cape Crozier. + +Bowers has placed one thermometer screen on the floe about 3/4' out, +and another smaller one above the Ramp. Oddly, the floe temperature +seems to agree with that on Wind Vane Hill, whilst the hut temperature +is always 4° or 5° colder in calm weather. To complete the records +a thermometer is to be placed in South Bay. + +Science--the rock foundation of all effort!! + +_Wednesday, May_ 10.--It has been blowing from the South 12 to 20 miles +per hour since last night; the ice remains fast. The temperature -12° +to -19°. The party does not come. I went well beyond Inaccessible +Island till Hut Point and Castle Rock appeared beyond Tent Island, +that is, well out on the space which was last seen as open water. The +ice is 9 inches thick, not much for eight or nine days' freezing; +but it is very solid--the surface wet but very slippery. I suppose +Meares waits for 12 inches in thickness, or fears the floe is too +slippery for the ponies. + +Yet I wish he would come. + +I took a thermometer on my walk to-day; the temperature was -12° +inside Inaccessible Island, but only -8° on the sea ice outside--the +wind seemed less outside. Coming in under lee of Island and bergs I was +reminded of the difficulty of finding shelter in these regions. The +weather side of hills seems to afford better shelter than the lee +side, as I have remarked elsewhere. May it be in part because all +lee sides tend to be filled by drift snow, blown and weathered rock +debris? There was a good lee under one of the bergs; in one corner the +ice sloped out over me and on either side, forming a sort of grotto; +here the air was absolutely still. + +Ponting gave us an interesting lecture on Burmah, illustrated with +fine slides. His descriptive language is florid, but shows the +artistic temperament. Bowers and Simpson were able to give personal +reminiscences of this land of pagodas, and the discussion led to +interesting statements on the religion, art, and education of its +people, their philosophic idleness, &c. Our lectures are a real +success. + +_Friday, May_ 12.--Yesterday morning was quiet. Played football in +the morning; wind got up in the afternoon and evening. + +All day it has been blowing hard, 30 to 60 miles an hour; it has never +looked very dark overhead, but a watery cirrus has been in evidence +for some time, causing well marked paraselene. + +I have not been far from the hut, but had a great fear on one occasion +that the ice had gone out in the Strait. + +The wind is dropping this evening, and I have been up to Wind Vane +Hill. I now think the ice has remained fast. + +There has been astonishingly little drift with the wind, probably +due to the fact that there has been so very little snowfall of late. + +Atkinson is pretty certain that he has isolated a very motile bacterium +in the snow. It is probably air borne, and though no bacteria have +been found in the air, this may be carried in upper currents and +brought down by the snow. If correct it is an interesting discovery. + +To-night Debenham gave a geological lecture. It was elementary. He +gave little more than the rough origin and classification of rocks +with a view to making his further lectures better understood. + +_Saturday, May_ 13.--The wind dropped about 10 last night. This +morning it was calm and clear save for a light misty veil of ice +crystals through which the moon shone with scarce clouded brilliancy, +surrounded with bright cruciform halo and white paraselene. Mock +moons with prismatic patches of colour appeared in the radiant ring, +echoes of the main source of light. Wilson has a charming sketch of +the phenomenon. + +I went to Inaccessible Island, and climbing some way up the steep +western face, reassured myself concerning the ice. It was evident +that there had been no movement in consequence of yesterday's blow. + +In climbing I had to scramble up some pretty steep rock faces and +screens, and held on only in anticipation of gaining the top of the +Island and an easy descent. Instead of this I came to an impossible +overhanging cliff of lava, and was forced to descend as I had come +up. It was no easy task, and I was glad to get down with only one slip, +when I brought myself up with my ice axe in the nick of time to prevent +a fall over a cliff. This Island is very steep on all sides. There +is only one known place of ascent; it will be interesting to try and +find others. + +After tea Atkinson came in with the glad tidings that the dog team +were returning from Hut Point. We were soon on the floe to welcome +the last remnant of our wintering party. Meares reported everything +well and the ponies not far behind. + +The dogs were unharnessed and tied up to the chains; they are all +looking remarkably fit--apparently they have given no trouble at all +of late; there have not even been any fights. + +Half an hour later Day, Lashly, Nelson, Forde, and Keohane arrived +with the two ponies--men and animals in good form. + +It is a great comfort to have the men and dogs back, and a greater +to contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled for the +winter. Everything seems to depend on these animals. + +I have not seen the meteorological record brought back, but it appears +that the party had had very fine calm weather since we left them, +except during the last three days when wind has been very strong. It +is curious that we should only have got one day with wind. + +I am promised the sea-freezing record to-morrow. Four seals were +got on April 22, the day after we left, and others have been killed +since, so that there is a plentiful supply of blubber and seal meat +at the hut--the rest of the supplies seem to have been pretty well run +out. Some more forage had been fetched in from the depot. A young sea +leopard had been killed on the sea ice near Castle Rock three days ago, +this being the second only found in the Sound. + +It is a strange fact that none of the returning party seem to greatly +appreciate the food luxuries they have had since their return. It +would have been the same with us had we not had a day or two in tents +before our return. It seems more and more certain that a very simple +fare is all that is needed here--plenty of seal meat, flour, and fat, +with tea, cocoa, and sugar; these are the only real requirements for +comfortable existence. + +The temperatures at Hut Point have not been as low as I expected. There +seems to have been an extraordinary heat wave during the spell of +calm recorded since we left--the thermometer registering little below +zero until the wind came, when it fell to -20°. Thus as an exception +we have had a fall instead of a rise of temperature with wind. + +[The exact inventory of stores at Hut Point here recorded has no +immediate bearing on the history of the expedition, but may be noted +as illustrating the care and thoroughness with which all operations +were conducted. Other details as to the carbide consumed in making +acetylene gas may be briefly quoted. The first tin was opened on +February 1, the second on March 26. The seventh on May 20, the next +eight at the average interval of 9 1/2 days.] + +_Sunday, May_ 14.--Grey and dull in the morning. + +Exercised the ponies and held the usual service. This morning I gave +Wright some notes containing speculations on the amount of ice on the +Antarctic continent and on the effects of winter movements in the sea +ice. I want to get into his head the larger bearing of the problems +which our physical investigations involve. He needs two years here to +fully realise these things, and with all his intelligence and energy +will produce little unless he has that extended experience. + +The sky cleared at noon, and this afternoon I walked over the North +Bay to the ice cliffs--such a very beautiful afternoon and evening--the +scene bathed in moonlight, so bright and pure as to be almost golden, +a very wonderful scene. At such times the Bay seems strangely homely, +especially when the eye rests on our camp with the hut and lighted +windows. + +I am very much impressed with the extraordinary and general cordiality +of the relations which exist amongst our people. I do not suppose that +a statement of the real truth, namely, that there is no friction at +all, will be credited--it is so generally thought that the many rubs of +such a life as this are quietly and purposely sunk in oblivion. With +me there is no need to draw a veil; there is nothing to cover. There +are no strained relations in this hut, and nothing more emphatically +evident than the universally amicable spirit which is shown on all +occasions. + +Such a state of affairs would be delightfully surprising under any +conditions, but it is much more so when one remembers the diverse +assortment of our company. + +This theme is worthy of expansion. To-night Oates, captain in a smart +cavalry regiment, has been 'scrapping' over chairs and tables with +Debenham, a young Australian student. + +It is a triumph to have collected such men. + +The temperature has been down to -23°, the lowest yet recorded +here--doubtless we shall soon get lower, for I find an extraordinary +difference between this season as far as it has gone and those +of 1902-3. + + + +CHAPTER X + +In Winter Quarters: Modern Style + +_Monday, May_ 15.--The wind has been strong from the north all +day--about 30 miles an hour. A bank of stratus cloud about 6000 or +7000 feet (measured by Erebus) has been passing rapidly overhead +_towards_ the north; it is nothing new to find the overlying layers +of air moving in opposite directions, but it is strange that the +phenomenon is so persistent. Simpson has frequently remarked as a +great feature of weather conditions here the seeming reluctance of +the air to 'mix'--the fact seems to be the explanation of many curious +fluctuations of temperature. + +Went for a short walk, but it was not pleasant. Wilson gave +an interesting lecture on penguins. He explained the primitive +characteristics in the arrangement of feathers on wings and body, the +absence of primaries and secondaries or bare tracts; the modification +of the muscles of the wings and in the structure of the feet (the +metatarsal joint). He pointed out (and the subsequent discussion +seemed to support him) that these birds probably branched at a very +early stage of bird life--coming pretty directly from the lizard +bird Archaeopteryx of the Jurassic age. Fossils of giant penguins +of Eocene and Miocene ages show that there has been extremely little +development since. + +He passed on to the classification and habitat of different genera, +nest-making habits, eggs, &c. Then to a brief account of the habits +of the Emperors and Adelies, which was of course less novel ground +for the old hands. + +Of special points of interest I recall his explanation of the +desirability of embryonic study of the Emperor to throw further +light on the development of the species in the loss of teeth, &c.; +and Ponting's contribution and observation of adult Adelies teaching +their young to swim--this point has been obscure. It has been said +that the old birds push the young into the water, and, per contra, +that they leave them deserted in the rookery--both statements seemed +unlikely. It would not be strange if the young Adelie had to learn to +swim (it is a well-known requirement of the Northern fur seal--sea +bear), but it will be interesting to see in how far the adult birds +lay themselves out to instruct their progeny. + +During our trip to the ice and sledge journey one of our dogs, Vaida, +was especially distinguished for his savage temper and generally +uncouth manners. He became a bad wreck with his poor coat at Hut Point, +and in this condition I used to massage him; at first the operation was +mistrusted and only continued to the accompaniment of much growling, +but later he evidently grew to like the warming effect and sidled +up to me whenever I came out of the hut, though still with some +suspicion. On returning here he seemed to know me at once, and now +comes and buries his head in my legs whenever I go out of doors; he +allows me to rub him and push him about without the slightest protest +and scampers about me as I walk abroad. He is a strange beast--I +imagine so unused to kindness that it took him time to appreciate it. + +_Tuesday, May_ 16.--The north wind continued all night but dropped this +forenoon. Conveniently it became calm at noon and we had a capital +game of football. The light is good enough, but not much more than +good enough, for this game. + +Had some instruction from Wright this morning on the electrical +instruments. + +Later went into our carbide expenditure with Day: am glad to find it +sufficient for two years, but am not making this generally known as +there are few things in which economy is less studied than light if +regulations allow of waste. + + +Electrical Instruments + +For measuring the ordinary potential gradient we have two +self-recording quadrant electrometers. The principle of this instrument +is the same as that of the old Kelvin instrument; the clockwork +attached to it unrolls a strip of paper wound on a roller; at intervals +the needle of the instrument is depressed by an electromagnet and makes +a dot on the moving paper. The relative position of these dots forms +the record. One of our instruments is adjusted to give only 1/10th +the refinement of measurement of the other by means of reduction in +the length of the quartz fibre. The object of this is to continue the +record in snowstorms, &c., when the potential difference of air and +earth is very great. The instruments are kept charged with batteries +of small Daniels cells. The clocks are controlled by a master clock. + +The instrument available for radio-activity measurements is a modified +type of the old gold-leaf electroscope. The measurement is made by the +mutual repulsion of quartz fibres acting against a spring--the extent +of the repulsion is very clearly shown against a scale magnified by +a telescope. + +The measurements to be made with instrument are various: + +The _ionization of the air_. A length of wire charged with 2000 volts +(negative) is exposed to the air for several hours. It is then coiled +on a frame and its rate of discharge measured by the electroscope. + +The _radio-activity of the various rocks_ of our neighbourhood; +this by direct measurement of the rock. + +The _conductivity of the air_, that is, the relative movement of +ions in the air; by movement of air past charged surface. Rate of +absorption of + and - ions is measured, the negative ion travelling +faster than the positive. + +_Wednesday, May_ 17.--For the first time this season we have a rise +of temperature with a southerly wind. The wind force has been about +30 since yesterday evening; the air is fairly full of snow and the +temperature has risen to -6° from -18°. + +I heard one of the dogs barking in the middle of the night, and on +inquiry learned that it was one of the 'Serais,' [22] that he seemed +to have something wrong with his hind leg, and that he had been put +under shelter. This morning the poor brute was found dead. + +I'm afraid we can place but little reliance on our dog teams and +reflect ruefully on the misplaced confidence with which I regarded +the provision of our transport. Well, one must suffer for errors +of judgment. + +This afternoon Wilson held a post-mortem on the dog; he could find +no sufficient cause of death. This is the third animal that has died +at winter quarters without apparent cause. Wilson, who is nettled, +proposes to examine the brain of this animal to-morrow. + +Went up the Ramp this morning. There was light enough to see our camp, +and it looked homely, as it does from all sides. Somehow we loom larger +here than at Cape Armitage. We seem to be more significant. It must +be from contrast of size; the larger hills tend to dwarf the petty +human element. + +To-night the wind has gone back to the north and is now blowing fresh. + +This sudden and continued complete change of direction is new to +our experience. + +Oates has just given us an excellent little lecture on the management +of horses. + +He explained his plan of feeding our animals 'soft' during the +winter, and hardening them up during the spring. He pointed out that +the horse's natural food being grass and hay, he would naturally +employ a great number of hours in the day filling a stomach of small +capacity with food from which he could derive only a small percentage +of nutriment. + +Hence it is desirable to feed horses often and light. His present +routine is as follows: + +Morning.--Chaff. + +Noon, after exercise.--Snow. Chaff and either oats or oil-cake +alternate days. + +Evening, 5 P.M.--Snow. Hot bran mash with oil-cake or boiled oats and +chaff; finally a small quantity of hay. This sort of food should be +causing the animals to put on flesh, but is not preparing them for +work. In October he proposes to give 'hard' food, all cold, and to +increase the exercising hours. + +As concerning the food we possess he thinks: + +The _chaff_ made of young wheat and hay is doubtful; there does not +seem to be any grain with it--and would farmers cut young wheat? There +does not seem to be any 'fat' in this food, but it is very well for +ordinary winter purposes. + +N.B.--It seems to me this ought to be inquired into. _Bran_ much +discussed, but good because it causes horses to chew the oats with +which mixed. + +_Oil-cake_, greasy, producing energy--excellent for horses to work on. + +_Oats_, of which we have two qualities, also very good working +food--our white quality much better than the brown. + +Our trainer went on to explain the value of training horses, of +getting them 'balanced' to pull with less effort. He owns it is very +difficult when one is walking horses only for exercise, but thinks +something can be done by walking them fast and occasionally making +them step backwards. + +Oates referred to the deeds that had been done with horses by +foreigners in shows and with polo ponies by Englishmen when the +animals were trained; it is, he said, a sort of gymnastic training. + +The discussion was very instructive and I have only noted the salient +points. + +_Thursday, May_ 18.--The wind dropped in the night; to-day it is calm, +with slight snowfall. We have had an excellent football match--the +only outdoor game possible in this light. + +I think our winter routine very good, I suppose every leader of a +party has thought that, since he has the power of altering it. On the +other hand, routine in this connection must take into consideration the +facilities of work and play afforded by the preliminary preparations +for the expedition. The winter occupations of most of our party +depend on the instruments and implements, the clothing and sledging +outfit, provided by forethought, and the routine is adapted to these +occupations. + +The busy winter routine of our party may therefore be excusably held +as a subject for self-congratulation. + +_Friday, May_ 19.--Wind from the north in the morning, temperature +comparatively high (about -6°). We played football during the noon +hour--the game gets better as we improve our football condition +and skill. + +In the afternoon the wind came from the north, dying away again late +at night. + +In the evening Wright lectured on 'Ice Problems.' He had a difficult +subject and was nervous. He is young and has never done original work; +is only beginning to see the importance of his task. + +He started on the crystallisation of ice, and explained with very +good illustrations the various forms of crystals, the manner of their +growth under different conditions and different temperatures. This +was instructive. Passing to the freezing of salt water, he was not +very clear. Then on to glaciers and their movements, theories for +same and observations in these regions. + +There was a good deal of disconnected information--silt bands, +crevasses were mentioned. Finally he put the problems of larger aspect. + +The upshot of the discussion was a decision to devote another evening +to the larger problems such as the Great Ice Barrier and the interior +ice sheet. I think I will write the paper to be discussed on this +occasion. + +I note with much satisfaction that the talks on ice problems and the +interest shown in them has had the effect of making Wright devote +the whole of his time to them. That may mean a great deal, for he is +a hard and conscientious worker. + +Atkinson has a new hole for his fish trap in 15 fathoms; yesterday +morning he got a record catch of forty-three fish, but oddly enough +yesterday evening there were only two caught. + +_Saturday, May_ 20.--Blowing hard from the south, with some snow and +very cold. Few of us went far; Wilson and Bowers went to the top of +the Ramp and found the wind there force 6 to 7, temperature -24°; +as a consequence they got frost-bitten. There was lively cheering +when they reappeared in this condition, such is the sympathy which is +here displayed for affliction; but with Wilson much of the amusement +arises from his peculiarly scant headgear and the confessed jealousy of +those of us who cannot face the weather with so little face protection. + +The wind dropped at night. + +_Sunday, May_ 21.--Observed as usual. It blew from the north in the +morning. Had an idea to go to Cape Royds this evening, but it was +reported that the open water reached to the Barne Glacier, and last +night my own observation seemed to confirm this. + +This afternoon I started out for the open water. I found the ice solid +off the Barne Glacier tongue, but always ahead of me a dark horizon as +though I was within a very short distance of its edge. I held on with +this appearance still holding up to C. Barne itself and then past that +Cape and half way between it and C. Royds. This was far enough to make +it evident that the ice was continuous to C. Royds, and has been so +for a long time. Under these circumstances the continual appearance of +open water to the north is most extraordinary and quite inexplicable. + +Have had some very interesting discussions with Wilson, Wright, +and Taylor on the ice formations to the west. How to account for +the marine organisms found on the weathered glacier ice north of the +Koettlitz Glacier? We have been elaborating a theory under which this +ice had once a negative buoyancy due to the morainic material on top +and in the lower layers of the ice mass, and had subsequently floated +when the greater amount of this material had weathered out. + +Have arranged to go to C. Royds to-morrow. + +The temperatures have sunk very steadily this year; for a long time +they hung about zero, then for a considerable interval remained about +-10°; now they are down in the minus twenties, with signs of falling +(to-day -24°). + +Bowers' meteorological stations have been amusingly named Archibald, +Bertram, Clarence--they are entered by the initial letter, but spoken +of by full title. + +To-night we had a glorious auroral display--quite the most brilliant +I have seen. At one time the sky from N.N.W. to S.S.E. as high as the +zenith was massed with arches, band, and curtains, always in rapid +movement. The waving curtains were especially fascinating--a wave +of bright light would start at one end and run along to the other, +or a patch of brighter light would spread as if to reinforce the +failing light of the curtain. + + +Auroral Notes + +The auroral light is of a palish green colour, but we now see +distinctly a red flush preceding the motion of any bright part. + +The green ghostly light seems suddenly to spring to life with rosy +blushes. There is infinite suggestion in this phenomenon, and in that +lies its charm; the suggestion of life, form, colour and movement never +less than evanescent, mysterious,--no reality. It is the language +of mystic signs and portents--the inspiration of the gods--wholly +spiritual--divine signalling. Remindful of superstition, provocative +of imagination. Might not the inhabitants of some other world (Mars) +controlling mighty forces thus surround our globe with fiery symbols, +a golden writing which we have not the key to decipher? + +There is argument on the confession of Ponting's inability to obtain +photographs of the aurora. Professor Stormer of Norway seems to +have been successful. Simpson made notes of his method, which seems +to depend merely on the rapidity of lens and plate. Ponting claims +to have greater rapidity in both, yet gets no result even with long +exposure. It is not only a question of aurora; the stars are equally +reluctant to show themselves on Ponting's plate. Even with five seconds +exposure the stars become short lines of light on the plate of a fixed +camera. Stormer's stars are points and therefore his exposure must +have been short, yet there is detail in some of his pictures which +it seems impossible could have been got with a short exposure. It is +all very puzzling. + +_Monday, May_ 22.--Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, Evans (P.O.), Clissold, +and self went to C. Royds with a 'go cart' carrying our sleeping-bags, +a cooker, and a small quantity of provision. + +The 'go cart' consists of a framework of steel tubing supported on +four bicycle wheels. + +The surface of the floes carries 1 to 2 inches of snow, barely covering +the salt ice flowers, and for this condition this vehicle of Day's +is excellent. The advantage is that it meets the case where the +salt crystals form a heavy frictional surface for wood runners. I'm +inclined to think that there are great numbers of cases when wheels +would be more efficient than runners on the sea ice. + +We reached Cape Royds in 2 1/2 hours, killing an Emperor penguin +in the bay beyond C. Barne. This bird was in splendid plumage, the +breast reflecting the dim northern light like a mirror. + +It was fairly dark when we stumbled over the rocks and dropped on to +Shackleton's Hut. Clissold started the cooking-range, Wilson and I +walked over to the Black beach and round back by Blue Lake. + +The temperature was down at -31° and the interior of the hut was +very cold. + +_Tuesday, May_ 23.--We spent the morning mustering the stores +within and without the hut, after a cold night which we passed very +comfortably in our bags. + +We found a good quantity of flour and Danish butter and a fair amount +of paraffin, with smaller supplies of assorted articles--the whole +sufficient to afford provision for such a party as ours for about six +or eight months if well administered. In case of necessity this would +undoubtedly be a very useful reserve to fall back upon. These stores +are somewhat scattered, and the hut has a dilapidated, comfortless +appearance due to its tenantless condition; but even so it seemed to +me much less inviting than our old _Discovery_ hut at C. Armitage. + +After a cup of cocoa there was nothing to detain us, and we started +back, the only useful articles added to our weights being a scrap or +two of leather and _five hymn-books_. Hitherto we have been only able +to muster seven copies; this increase will improve our Sunday Services. + +_Wednesday, May_ 24.--A quiet day with northerly wind; the temperature +rose gradually to zero. Having the night duty, did not go out. The +moon has gone and there is little to attract one out of doors. + +Atkinson gave us an interesting little discourse on parasitology, +with a brief account of the life history of some ecto- and some +endo-parasites--Nematodes, Trematodes. He pointed out how that +in nearly every case there was a secondary host, how in some cases +disease was caused, and in others the presence of the parasite was even +helpful. He acknowledged the small progress that had been made in this +study. He mentioned ankylostomiasis, blood-sucking worms, Bilhartsia +(Trematode) attacking bladder (Egypt), Filaria (round tapeworm), +Guinea worm, Trichina (pork), and others, pointing to disease caused. + +From worms he went to Protozoa-Trypanosomes, sleeping sickness, +host tsetse-fly--showed life history comparatively, propagated in +secondary host or encysting in primary host--similarly malarial germs +spread by Anopheles mosquitoes--all very interesting. + +In the discussion following Wilson gave some account of the grouse +disease worm, and especially of the interest in finding free living +species almost identical; also part of the life of disease worm is +free living. Here we approached a point pressed by Nelson concerning +the degeneration consequent on adoption of the parasitic habit. All +parasites seem to have descended from free living beasts. One asks +'what is degeneration?' without receiving a very satisfactory +answer. After all, such terms must be empirical. + +_Thursday, May_ 25.--It has been blowing from south with heavy gusts +and snow, temperature extraordinarily high, -6°. This has been a heavy +gale. The weather conditions are certainly very interesting; Simpson +has again called attention to the wind in February, March, and April +at Cape Evans--the record shows an extraordinary large percentage +of gales. It is quite certain that we scarcely got a fraction of the +wind on the Barrier and doubtful if we got as much at Hut Point. + +_Friday, May_ 26.--A calm and clear day--a nice change from recent +weather. It makes an enormous difference to the enjoyment of this +life if one is able to get out and stretch one's legs every day. This +morning I went up the Ramp. No sign of open water, so that my fears +for a broken highway in the coming season are now at rest. In future +gales can only be a temporary annoyance--anxiety as to their result +is finally allayed. + +This afternoon I searched out ski and ski sticks and went for a short +run over the floe. The surface is quite good since the recent snowfall +and wind. This is satisfactory, as sledging can now be conducted on +ordinary lines, and if convenient our parties can pull on ski. The +young ice troubles of April and May have passed away. It is curious +that circumstances caused us to miss them altogether during our stay +in the _Discovery._ + +We are living extraordinarily well. At dinner last night we had some +excellent thick seal soup, very much like thick hare soup; this was +followed by an equally tasty seal steak and kidney pie and a fruit +jelly. The smell of frying greeted us on awaking this morning, and +at breakfast each of us had two of our nutty little _Notothenia_ fish +after our bowl of porridge. These little fish have an extraordinarily +sweet taste--bread and butter and marmalade finished the meal. At the +midday meal we had bread and butter, cheese, and cake, and to-night +I smell mutton in the preparation. Under the circumstances it would +be difficult to conceive more appetising repasts or a regime which +is likely to produce scorbutic symptoms. I cannot think we shall +get scurvy. + +Nelson lectured to us to-night, giving a very able little elementary +sketch of the objects of the biologist. A fact struck one in his +explanation of the rates of elimination. Two of the offspring of +two parents alone survive, speaking broadly; this the same of the +human species or the 'ling,' with 24,000,000 eggs in the roe of +each female! He talked much of evolution, adaptation, &c. Mendelism +became the most debated point of the discussion; the transmission +of characters has a wonderful fascination for the human mind. There +was also a point striking deep in the debate on Professor Loeb's +experiments with sea urchins; how far had he succeeded in reproducing +the species without the male spermatozoa? Not very far, it seemed, +when all was said. + +A theme for a pen would be the expansion of interest in polar affairs; +compare the interests of a winter spent by the old Arctic voyagers +with our own, and look into the causes. The aspect of everything +changes as our knowledge expands. + +The expansion of human interest in rude surroundings may perhaps +best be illustrated by comparisons. It will serve to recall such a +simple case as the fact that our ancestors applied the terms horrid, +frightful, to mountain crags which in our own day are more justly +admired as lofty, grand, and beautiful. + +The poetic conception of this natural phenomenon has followed not so +much an inherent change of sentiment as the intimacy of wider knowledge +and the death of superstitious influence. One is much struck by the +importance of realising limits. + +_Saturday, May_ 27.--A very unpleasant, cold, windy day. Annoyed with +the conditions, so did not go out. + +In the evening Bowers gave his lecture on sledging diets. He has +shown great courage in undertaking the task, great perseverance in +unearthing facts from books, and a considerable practical skill in +stringing these together. It is a thankless task to search polar +literature for dietary facts and still more difficult to attach due +weight to varying statements. Some authors omit discussion of this +important item altogether, others fail to note alterations made in +practice or additions afforded by circumstances, others again forget +to describe the nature of various food stuffs. + +Our lecturer was both entertaining and instructive when he dealt +with old time rations; but he naturally grew weak in approaching the +physiological aspect of the question. He went through with it manfully +and with a touch of humour much appreciated; whereas, for instance, +he deduced facts from 'the equivalent of Mr. Joule, a gentleman whose +statements he had no reason to doubt.' + +Wilson was the mainstay of the subsequent discussion and put +all doubtful matters in a clearer light. 'Increase your fats +(carbohydrate)' is what science seems to say, and practice with +conservativism is inclined to step cautiously in response to this +urgence. I shall, of course, go into the whole question as thoroughly +as available information and experience permits. Meanwhile it is +useful to have had a discussion which aired the popular opinions. + +Feeling went deepest on the subject of tea versus cocoa; admitting all +that can be said concerning stimulation and reaction, I am inclined +to see much in favour of tea. Why should not one be mildly stimulated +during the marching hours if one can cope with reaction by profounder +rest during the hours of inaction? + +_Sunday, May_ 28.--Quite an excitement last night. One of the ponies +(the grey which I led last year and salved from the floe) either fell +or tried to lie down in his stall, his head being lashed up to the +stanchions on either side. In this condition he struggled and kicked +till his body was twisted right round and his attitude extremely +uncomfortable. Very luckily his struggles were heard almost at once, +and his head ropes being cut, Oates got him on his feet again. He +looked a good deal distressed at the time, but is now quite well +again and has been out for his usual exercise. + +Held Service as usual. + +This afternoon went on ski around the bay and back across. Little +or no wind; sky clear, temperature -25°. It was wonderfully mild +considering the temperature--this sounds paradoxical, but the sensation +of cold does not conform to the thermometer--it is obviously dependent +on the wind and less obviously on the humidity of the air and the +ice crystals floating in it. I cannot very clearly account for this +effect, but as a matter of fact I have certainly felt colder in still +air at -10° than I did to-day when the thermometer was down to -25°, +other conditions apparently equal. + +The amazing circumstance is that by no means can we measure the +humidity, or indeed the precipitation or evaporation. I have just +been discussing with Simpson the insuperable difficulties that stand +in the way of experiment in this direction, since cold air can only +hold the smallest quantities of moisture, and saturation covers an +extremely small range of temperature. + +_Monday, May_ 29.--Another beautiful calm day. Went out both before and +after the mid-day meal. This morning with Wilson and Bowers towards +the thermometer off Inaccessible Island. On the way my companionable +dog was heard barking and dimly seen--we went towards him and found +that he was worrying a young sea leopard. This is the second found in +the Strait this season. We had to secure it as a specimen, but it was +sad to have to kill. The long lithe body of this seal makes it almost +beautiful in comparison with our stout, bloated Weddells. This poor +beast turned swiftly from side to side as we strove to stun it with +a blow on the nose. As it turned it gaped its jaws wide, but oddly +enough not a sound came forth, not even a hiss. + +After lunch a sledge was taken out to secure the prize, which had +been photographed by flashlight. + +Ponting has been making great advances in flashlight work, and has +opened up quite a new field in which artistic results can be obtained +in the winter. + +Lecture--Japan. To-night Ponting gave us a charming lecture on +Japan with wonderful illustrations of his own. He is happiest in his +descriptions of the artistic side of the people, with which he is +in fullest sympathy. So he took us to see the flower pageants. The +joyful festivals of the cherry blossom, the wistaria, the iris and +chrysanthemum, the sombre colours of the beech blossom and the paths +about the lotus gardens, where mankind meditated in solemn mood. We +had pictures, too, of Nikko and its beauties, of Temples and great +Buddhas. Then in more touristy strain of volcanoes and their craters, +waterfalls and river gorges, tiny tree-clad islets, that feature of +Japan--baths and their bathers, Ainos, and so on. His descriptions +were well given and we all of us thoroughly enjoyed our evening. + +_Tuesday, May_ 30.--Am busy with my physiological investigations. [23] +Atkinson reported a sea leopard at the tide crack; it proved to be +a crab-eater, young and very active. In curious contrast to the sea +leopard of yesterday in snapping round it uttered considerable noise, +a gasping throaty growl. + +Went out to the outer berg, where there was quite a collection of +people, mostly in connection with Ponting, who had brought camera +and flashlight. + +It was beautifully calm and comparatively warm. It was good to hear +the gay chatter and laughter, and see ponies and their leaders come +up out of the gloom to add liveliness to the scene. The sky was +extraordinarily clear at noon and to the north very bright. + +We have had an exceptionally large tidal range during the last +three days--it has upset the tide gauge arrangements and brought a +little doubt on the method. Day is going into the question, which we +thoroughly discussed to-day. Tidal measurements will be worse than +useless unless we can be sure of the accuracy of our methods. Pools +of salt water have formed over the beach floes in consequence of the +high tide, and in the chase of the crab eater to-day very brilliant +flashes of phosphorescent light appeared in these pools. We think it +due to a small cope-pod. I have just found a reference to the same +phenomena in Nordenskiöld's 'Vega.' He, and apparently Bellot before +him, noted the phenomenon. An interesting instance of bi-polarity. + +Another interesting phenomenon observed to-day was a cirrus cloud lit +by sunlight. It was seen by Wilson and Bowers 5° above the northern +horizon--the sun is 9° below our horizon, and without refraction we +calculate a cloud could be seen which was 12 miles high. Allowing +refraction the phenomenon appears very possible. + +_Wednesday, May_ 31.--The sky was overcast this morning and the +temperature up to -13°. Went out after lunch to 'Land's End.' The +surface of snow was sticky for ski, except where drifts were +deep. There was an oppressive feel in the air and I got very hot, +coming in with head and hands bare. + +At 5, from dead calm the wind suddenly sprang up from the south, force +40 miles per hour, and since that it has been blowing a blizzard; +wind very gusty, from 20 to 60 miles. I have never known a storm come +on so suddenly, and it shows what possibility there is of individuals +becoming lost even if they only go a short way from the hut. + +To-night Wilson has given us a very interesting lecture on +sketching. He started by explaining his methods of rough sketch +and written colour record, and explained its suitability to this +climate as opposed to coloured chalks, &c.--a very practical method +for cold fingers and one that becomes more accurate with practice in +observation. His theme then became the extreme importance of accuracy, +his mode of expression and explanation frankly Ruskinesque. Don't +put in meaningless lines--every line should be from observation. So +with contrast of light and shade--fine shading, subtle distinction, +everything--impossible without care, patience, and trained attention. + +He raised a smile by generalising failures in sketches of others of +our party which had been brought to him for criticism. He pointed +out how much had been put in from preconceived notion. 'He will draw +a berg faithfully as it is now and he studies it, but he leaves sea +and sky to be put in afterwards, as he thinks they must be like sea +and sky everywhere else, and he is content to try and remember how +these _should_ be done.' Nature's harmonies cannot be guessed at. + +He quoted much from Ruskin, leading on a little deeper to +'Composition,' paying a hearty tribute to Ponting. + +The lecture was delivered in the author's usual modest strain, but +unconsciously it was expressive of himself and his whole-hearted +thoroughness. He stands very high in the scale of human beings--how +high I scarcely knew till the experience of the past few months. + +There is no member of our party so universally esteemed; only +to-night I realise how patiently and consistently he has given time +and attention to help the efforts of the other sketchers, and so it is +all through; he has had a hand in almost every lecture given, and has +been consulted in almost every effort which has been made towards the +solution of the practical or theoretical problems of our polar world. + +The achievement of a great result by patient work is the best +possible object lesson for struggling humanity, for the results of +genius, however admirable, can rarely be instructive. The chief of +the Scientific Staff sets an example which is more potent than any +other factor in maintaining that bond of good fellowship which is +the marked and beneficent characteristic of our community. + + + +CHAPTER XI + +To Midwinter Day + +_Thursday, June_ 1.--The wind blew hard all night, gusts arising to +72 m.p.h.; the anemometer choked five times--temperature +9°. It is +still blowing this morning. Incidentally we have found that these +heavy winds react very conveniently on our ventilating system. A fire +is always a good ventilator, ensuring the circulation of inside air and +the indraught of fresh air; its defect as a ventilator lies in the low +level at which it extracts inside air. Our ventilating system utilises +the normal fire draught, but also by suitable holes in the funnelling +causes the same draught to extract foul air at higher levels. I think +this is the first time such a system has been used. It is a bold step +to make holes in the funnelling as obviously any uncertainty of draught +might fill the hut with smoke. Since this does not happen with us it +follows that there is always strong suction through our stovepipes, +and this is achieved by their exceptionally large dimensions and by +the length of the outer chimney pipe. + +With wind this draught is greatly increased and with high winds the +draught would be too great for the stoves if it were not for the +relief of the ventilating holes. + +In these circumstances, therefore, the rate of extraction of air +automatically rises, and since high wind is usually accompanied with +marked rise of temperature, the rise occurs at the most convenient +season, when the interior of the hut would otherwise tend to become +oppressively warm. The practical result of the system is that in +spite of the numbers of people living in the hut, the cooking, and +the smoking, the inside air is nearly always warm, sweet, and fresh. + +There is usually a drawback to the best of arrangements, and I have +said 'nearly' always. The exceptions in this connection occur when +the outside air is calm and warm and the galley fire, as in the early +morning, needs to be worked up; it is necessary under these conditions +to temporarily close the ventilating holes, and if at this time the +cook is intent on preparing our breakfast with a frying-pan we are +quickly made aware of his intentions. A combination of this sort is +rare and lasts only for a very short time, for directly the fire is +aglow the ventilator can be opened again and the relief is almost +instantaneous. + +This very satisfactory condition of inside air must be a highly +important factor in the preservation of health. + + + + + +I have to-day regularised the pony 'nicknames'; I must leave it to +Drake to pull out the relation to the 'proper' names according to +our school contracts! [24] + +The nicknames are as follows: + + + James Pigg Keohane + Bones Crean + Michael Clissold + Snatcher Evans (P.O.) + Jehu + China + Christopher Hooper + Victor Bowers + Snippets (windsucker) + Nobby Lashly + + +_Friday, June_ 2.--The wind still high. The drift ceased at an early +hour yesterday; it is difficult to account for the fact. At night +the sky cleared; then and this morning we had a fair display of +aurora streamers to the N. and a faint arch east. Curiously enough +the temperature still remains high, about +7°. + +The meteorological conditions are very puzzling. + +_Saturday, June_ 3.--The wind dropped last night, but at 4 +A.M. suddenly sprang up from a dead calm to 30 miles an hour. Almost +instantaneously, certainly within the space of one minute, there was +a temperature rise of nine degrees. It is the most extraordinary +and interesting example of a rise of temperature with a southerly +wind that I can remember. It is certainly difficult to account for +unless we imagine that during the calm the surface layer of cold air +is extremely thin and that there is a steep inverted gradient. When +the wind arose the sky overhead was clearer than I ever remember to +have seen it, the constellations brilliant, and the Milky Way like +a bright auroral streamer. + +The wind has continued all day, making it unpleasant out of doors. I +went for a walk over the land; it was dark, the rock very black, +very little snow lying; old footprints in the soft, sandy soil were +filled with snow, showing quite white on a black ground. Have been +digging away at food statistics. + +Simpson has just given us a discourse, in the ordinary lecture series, +on his instruments. Having already described these instruments, there +is little to comment upon; he is excellently lucid in his explanations. + +As an analogy to the attempt to make a scientific observation when +the condition under consideration is affected by the means employed, +he rather quaintly cited the impossibility of discovering the length +of trousers by bending over to see! + +The following are the instruments described: + + + Features + + The outside (bimetallic) thermograph. + + The inside thermograph (alcohol) + Alcohol in spiral, small lead pipe--float vessel. + + The electrically recording anemometer + Cam device with contact on wheel; slowing arrangement, + inertia of wheel. + + The Dynes anemometer + Parabola on immersed float. + + The recording wind vane + Metallic pen. + + The magnetometer + Horizontal force measured in two directions--vertical + force in one--timing arrangement. + + The high and low potential apparatus of the balloon thermograph + Spotting arrangement and difference, see _ante_. + + +Simpson is admirable as a worker, admirable as a scientist, and +admirable as a lecturer. + +_Sunday, June_ 4.--A calm and beautiful day. The account of this, +a typical Sunday, would run as follows: Breakfast. A half-hour or +so selecting hymns and preparing for Service whilst the hut is being +cleared up. The Service: a hymn; Morning prayer to the Psalms; another +hymn; prayers from Communion Service and Litany; a final hymn and +our special prayer. Wilson strikes the note on which the hymn is to +start and I try to hit it after with doubtful success! After church +the men go out with their ponies. + +To-day Wilson, Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Lashly, and I went to +start the building of our first 'igloo.' There is a good deal of +difference of opinion as to the best implement with which to cut snow +blocks. Cherry-Garrard had a knife which I designed and Lashly made, +Wilson a saw, and Bowers a large trowel. I'm inclined to think the +knife will prove most effective, but the others don't acknowledge +it _yet_. As far as one can see at present this knife should have a +longer handle and much coarser teeth in the saw edge--perhaps also +the blade should be thinner. + +We must go on with this hut building till we get good at it. I'm sure +it's going to be a useful art. + +We only did three courses of blocks when tea-time arrived, and light +was not good enough to proceed after tea. + +Sunday afternoon for the men means a 'stretch of the land.' + +I went over the floe on ski. The best possible surface after the late +winds as far as Inaccessible Island. Here, and doubtless in most places +along the shore, this, the first week of June, may be noted as the date +by which the wet, sticky salt crystals become covered and the surface +possible for wood runners. Beyond the island the snow is still very +thin, barely covering the ice flowers, and the surface is still bad. + +There has been quite a small landslide on the S. side of the Island; +seven or eight blocks of rock, one or two tons in weight, have dropped +on to the floe, an interesting instance of the possibility of transport +by sea ice. + +Ponting has been out to the bergs photographing by flashlight. As +I passed south of the Island with its whole mass between myself +and the photographer I saw the flashes of magnesium light, having +all the appearance of lightning. The light illuminated the sky and +apparently objects at a great distance from the camera. It is evident +that there may be very great possibilities in the use of this light +for signalling purposes and I propose to have some experiments. + +N.B.--Magnesium flashlight as signalling apparatus in the summer. + +Another crab-eater seal was secured to-day; he had come up by the +bergs. + +_Monday, June_ 5.--The wind has been S. all day, sky overcast and +air misty with snow crystals. The temperature has gone steadily up +and to-night rose to + 16°. Everything seems to threaten a blizzard +which cometh not. But what is to be made of this extraordinary high +temperature heaven only knows. Went for a walk over the rocks and +found it very warm and muggy. + +Taylor gave us a paper on the Beardmore Glacier. He has taken pains +to work up available information; on the ice side he showed the +very gradual gradient as compared with the Ferrar. If crevasses +are as plentiful as reported, the motion of glacier must be very +considerable. There seem to be three badly crevassed parts where the +glacier is constricted and the fall is heavier. + +Geologically he explained the rocks found and the problems +unsolved. The basement rocks, as to the north, appear to be reddish +and grey granites and altered slate (possibly bearing fossils). The +Cloudmaker appears to be diorite; Mt. Buckley sedimentary. The +suggested formation is of several layers of coal with sandstone +above and below; interesting to find if it is so and investigate +coal. Wood fossil conifer appears to have come from this--better to +get leaves--wrap fossils up for protection. + +Mt. Dawson described as pinkish limestone, with a wedge of dark rock; +this very doubtful! Limestone is of great interest owing to chance +of finding Cambrian fossils (Archeocyathus). + +He mentioned the interest of finding here, as in Dry Valley, volcanic +cones of recent date (later than the recession of the ice). As points +to be looked to in Geology and Physiography: + +1. Hope Island shape. + +2. Character of wall facets. + +3. Type of tributary glacierscliff or curtain, broken. + + +4. Do tributaries enter 'at grade'? + +5. Lateral gullies pinnacled, &c., shape and size of slope. + +6. Do tributaries cut out gullies--empty unoccupied cirques, + hangers, &c. + +7. Do upland moraines show tesselation? + +8. Arrangement of strata, inclusion of. + +9. Types of moraines, distance of blocks. + +10. Weathering of glaciers. Types of surface. (Thrust mark? Rippled, + snow stool, glass house, coral reef, honeycomb, ploughshare, + bastions, piecrust.) + +11. Amount of water silt bands, stratified, or irregular folded + or broken. + +12. Cross section, of valleys 35° slopes? + +13. Weather slopes debris covered, height to which. + +14. Nunataks, height of rounded, height of any angle in profile, + erratics. + +15. Evidence of order in glacier delta. + +Debenham in discussion mentioned usefulness of small chips of +rock--many chips from several places are more valuable than few +larger specimens. + +We had an interesting little discussion. + +I must enter a protest against the use made of the word 'glaciated' +by Geologists and Physiographers. + +To them a 'glaciated land' is one which appears to have been shaped +by former ice action. + +The meaning I attach to the phrase, and one which I believe is more +commonly current, is that it describes a land at present wholly or +partly covered with ice and snow. + +I hold the latter is the obvious meaning and the former results from +a piracy committed in very recent times. + +The alternative terms descriptive of the different meanings are ice +covered and ice eroded. + +To-day I have been helping the Soldier to design pony rugs; the great +thing, I think, is to get something which will completely cover the +hindquarters. + +_Tuesday, June_ 6.--The temperature has been as high as +19° to-day; +the south wind persisted until the evening with clear sky except +for fine effects of torn cloud round about the mountain. To-night +the moon has emerged from behind the mountain and sails across the +cloudless northern sky; the wind has fallen and the scene is glorious. + +It is my birthday, a fact I might easily have forgotten, but my kind +people did not. At lunch an immense birthday cake made its appearance +and we were photographed assembled about it. Clissold had decorated +its sugared top with various devices in chocolate and crystallised +fruit, flags and photographs of myself. + +After my walk I discovered that great preparations were in progress for +a special dinner, and when the hour for that meal arrived we sat down +to a sumptuous spread with our sledge banners hung about us. Clissold's +especially excellent seal soup, roast mutton and red currant jelly, +fruit salad, asparagus and chocolate--such was our menu. For drink we +had cider cup, a mystery not yet fathomed, some sherry and a liqueur. + +After this luxurious meal everyone was very festive and amiably +argumentative. As I write there is a group in the dark room discussing +political progress with discussions--another at one corner of +the dinner table airing its views on the origin of matter and the +probability of its ultimate discovery, and yet another debating +military problems. The scraps that reach me from the various groups +sometimes piece together in ludicrous fashion. Perhaps these arguments +are practically unprofitable, but they give a great deal of pleasure +to the participants. It's delightful to hear the ring of triumph in +some voice when the owner imagines he has delivered himself of a +well-rounded period or a clinching statement concerning the point +under discussion. They are boys, all of them, but such excellent +good-natured ones; there has been no sign of sharpness or anger, +no jarring note, in all these wordy contests! all end with a laugh. + +Nelson has offered Taylor a pair of socks to teach him some +geology! This lulls me to sleep! + +_Wednesday, June_ 7.--A very beautiful day. In the afternoon went +well out over the floe to the south, looking up Nelson at his icehole +and picking up Bowers at his thermometer. The surface was polished +and beautifully smooth for ski, the scene brightly illuminated +with moonlight, the air still and crisp, and the thermometer at +-10°. Perfect conditions for a winter walk. + +In the evening I read a paper on 'The Ice Barrier and Inland Ice.' I +have strung together a good many new points and the interest taken +in the discussion was very genuine--so keen, in fact, that we did not +break up till close on midnight. I am keeping this paper, which makes +a very good basis for all future work on these subjects. (See Vol. II.) + + +Shelters to Iceholes + +Time out of number one is coming across rediscoveries. Of such a +nature is the building of shelters for iceholes. We knew a good deal +about it in the _Discovery_, but unfortunately did not make notes of +our experiences. I sketched the above figures for Nelson, and found on +going to the hole that the drift accorded with my sketch. The sketches +explain themselves. I think wall 'b' should be higher than wall 'a.' + +My night on duty. The silent hours passed rapidly and comfortably. To +bed 7 A.M. + +_Thursday, June_ 8.--Did not turn out till 1 P.M., then with a bad +head, an inevitable sequel to a night of vigil. Walked out to and +around the bergs, bright moonlight, but clouds rapidly spreading up +from south. + +Tried the snow knife, which is developing. Debenham and Gran went +off to Hut Point this morning; they should return to-morrow. + +_Friday, June_ 9.--No wind came with the clouds of yesterday, but +the sky has not been clear since they spread over it except for about +two hours in the middle of the night when the moonlight was so bright +that one might have imagined the day returned. + +Otherwise the web of stratus which hangs over us thickens and thins, +rises and falls with very bewildering uncertainty. We want theories +for these mysterious weather conditions; meanwhile it is annoying to +lose the advantages of the moonlight. + +This morning had some discussion with Nelson and Wright regarding the +action of sea water in melting barrier and sea ice. The discussion +was useful to me in drawing attention to the equilibrium of layers +of sea water. + +In the afternoon I went round the Razor Back Islands on ski, a run +of 5 or 6 miles; the surface was good but in places still irregular +with the pressures formed when the ice was 'young.' + +The snow is astonishingly soft on the south side of both islands. It +is clear that in the heaviest blizzard one could escape the wind +altogether by camping to windward of the larger island. One sees +more and more clearly what shelter is afforded on the weather side +of steep-sided objects. + +Passed three seals asleep on the ice. Two others were killed near +the bergs. + +_Saturday, June_ 10.--The impending blizzard has come; the wind came +with a burst at 9.30 this morning. + +Simpson spent the night turning over a theory to account for the +phenomenon, and delivered himself of it this morning. It seems a +good basis for the reference of future observations. He imagines the +atmosphere A C in potential equilibrium with large margin of stability, +i.e. the difference of temperature between A and C being much less +than the adiabatic gradient. + +In this condition there is a tendency to cool by radiation until +some critical layer, B, reaches its due point. A stratus cloud is +thus formed at B; from this moment A B continues to cool, but B C is +protected from radiating, whilst heated by radiation from snow and +possibly by release of latent heat due to cloud formation. + +The condition now rapidly approaches unstable equilibrium, B C tending +to rise, A B to descend. + +Owing to lack of sun heat the effect will be more rapid in south than +north and therefore the upset will commence first in the south. After +the first start the upset will rapidly spread north, bringing the +blizzard. The facts supporting the theory are the actual formation +of a stratus cloud before a blizzard, the snow and warm temperature +of the blizzard and its gusty nature. + +It is a pretty starting-point, but, of course, there are weak spots. + +Atkinson has found a trypanosome in the fish--it has been stained, +photographed and drawn--an interesting discovery having regard to +the few species that have been found. A trypanosome is the cause of +'sleeping sickness.' + +The blizzard has continued all day with a good deal of drift. I went +for a walk, but the conditions were not inviting. + +We have begun to consider details of next season's travelling +equipment. The crampons, repair of finnesko with sealskin, and an +idea for a double tent have been discussed to-day. P.O. Evans and +Lashly are delightfully intelligent in carrying out instructions. + +_Sunday, June_ 11.--A fine clear morning, the moon now revolving well +aloft and with full face. + +For exercise a run on ski to the South Bay in the morning and a dash +up the Ramp before dinner. Wind and drift arose in the middle of the +day, but it is now nearly calm again. + +At our morning service Cherry-Garrard, good fellow, vamped the +accompaniment of two hymns; he received encouraging thanks and will +cope with all three hymns next Sunday. + +Day by day news grows scant in this midwinter season; all events seem +to compress into a small record, yet a little reflection shows that +this is not the case. For instance I have had at least three important +discussions on weather and ice conditions to-day, concerning which +many notes might be made, and quite a number of small arrangements +have been made. + +If a diary can be so inadequate here how difficult must be the task +of making a faithful record of a day's events in ordinary civilised +life! I think this is why I have found it so difficult to keep a +diary at home. + +_Monday, June_ 12.--The weather is not kind to us. There has not been +much wind to-day, but the moon has been hid behind stratus cloud. One +feels horribly cheated in losing the pleasure of its light. I scarcely +know what the Crozier party can do if they don't get better luck +next month. + +Debenham and Gran have not yet returned; this is their fifth day +of absence. + +Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went to Cape Royds this afternoon to stay +the night. Taylor and Wright walked there and back after breakfast +this morning. They returned shortly after lunch. + +Went for a short spin on ski this morning and again this +afternoon. This evening Evans has given us a lecture on surveying. He +was shy and slow, but very painstaking, taking a deal of trouble in +preparing pictures, &c. + +I took the opportunity to note hurriedly the few points to which I +want attention especially directed. No doubt others will occur to +me presently. I think I now understand very well how and why the old +surveyors (like Belcher) failed in the early Arctic work. + +1. Every officer who takes part in the Southern Journey ought to have + in his memory the approximate variation of the compass at various + stages of the journey and to know how to apply it to obtain a true + course from the compass. The variation changes very slowly so that + no great effort of memory is required. + +2. He ought to know what the true course is to reach one depôt from + another. + +3. He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite. + +4. He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation. + +5. He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to work + out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude. + +6. He should know how to read the sledgemeter. + +7. He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries and + the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time. + +8. He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of objects, + the opening out of valleys, the observation of new peaks, &c._19_ + +_Tuesday, June_ 13.--A very beautiful day. We revelled in the calm +clear moonlight; the temperature has fallen to -26°. The surface of +the floe perfect for ski--had a run to South Bay in forenoon and was +away on a long circuit around Inaccessible Island in the afternoon. In +such weather the cold splendour of the scene is beyond description; +everything is satisfying, from the deep purple of the starry sky to +the gleaming bergs and the sparkle of the crystals under foot. + +Some very brilliant patches of aurora over the southern shoulder of +the mountain. Observed an exceedingly bright meteor shoot across the +sky to the northward. + +On my return found Debenham and Gran back from Cape Armitage. They had +intended to start back on Sunday, but were prevented by bad weather; +they seemed to have had stronger winds than we. + +On arrival at the hut they found poor little 'Mukaka' coiled up +outside the door, looking pitifully thin and weak, but with enough +energy to bark at them. + +This dog was run over and dragged for a long way under the sledge +runners whilst we were landing stores in January (the 7th). He has +never been worth much since, but remained lively in spite of all the +hardships of sledging work. At Hut Point he looked a miserable object, +as the hair refused to grow on his hindquarters. It seemed as though +he could scarcely continue in such a condition, and when the party came +back to Cape Evans he was allowed to run free alongside the sledge. + +On the arrival of the party I especially asked after the little animal +and was told by Demetri that he had returned, but later it transpired +that this was a mistake--that he had been missed on the journey and +had not turned up again later as was supposed. + +I learned this fact only a few days ago and had quite given up the hope +of ever seeing the poor little beast again. It is extraordinary to +realise that this poor, lame, half-clad animal has lived for a whole +month by himself. He had blood on his mouth when found, implying the +capture of a seal, but how he managed to kill it and then get through +its skin is beyond comprehension. Hunger drives hard. + +_Wednesday, June_ 14.--Storms are giving us little rest. We found +a thin stratus over the sky this morning, foreboding ill. The wind +came, as usual with a rush, just after lunch. At first there was much +drift--now the drift has gone but the gusts run up to 65 m.p.h. + +Had a comfortless stroll around the hut; how rapidly things change +when one thinks of the delights of yesterday! Paid a visit to +Wright's ice cave; the pendulum is installed and will soon be ready +for observation. Wright anticipates the possibility of difficulty +with ice crystals on the agate planes. + +He tells me that he has seen some remarkably interesting examples of +the growth of ice crystals on the walls of the cave and has observed +the same unaccountable confusion of the size of grains in the ice, +showing how little history can be gathered from the structure of ice. + +This evening Nelson gave us his second biological lecture, starting +with a brief reference to the scientific classification of the +organism into Kingdom, Phylum, Group, Class, Order, Genus, Species; +he stated the justification of a biologist in such an expedition, +as being 'To determine the condition under which organic substances +exist in the sea.' + +He proceeded to draw divisions between the bottom organisms without +power of motion, benthon, the nekton motile life in mid-water, and +the plankton or floating life. Then he led very prettily on to the +importance of the tiny vegetable organisms as the basis of all life. + +In the killer whale may be found a seal, in the seal a fish, in +the fish a smaller fish, in the smaller fish a copepod, and in the +copepod a diatom. If this be regular feeding throughout, the diatom +or vegetable is essentially the base of all. + +Light is the essential of vegetable growth or metabolism, and light +quickly vanishes in depth of water, so that all ocean life must +ultimately depend on the phyto-plankton. To discover the conditions +of this life is therefore to go to the root of matters. + +At this point came an interlude--descriptive of the various biological +implements in use in the ship and on shore. The otter trawl, the +Agassiz trawl, the 'D' net, and the ordinary dredger. + +A word or two on the using of 'D' nets and then explanation of +sieves for classifying the bottom, its nature causing variation in +the organisms living on it. + +From this he took us amongst the tow-nets with their beautiful +silk fabrics, meshes running 180 to the inch and materials costing 2 +guineas the yard--to the German tow-nets for quantitative measurements, +the object of the latter and its doubtful accuracy, young fish trawls. + +From this to the chemical composition of sea water, the total salt +about 3.5 per cent, but variable: the proportions of the various salts +do not appear to differ, thus the chlorine test detects the salinity +quantitatively. Physically plankton life must depend on this salinity +and also on temperature, pressure, light, and movement. + +(If plankton only inhabits surface waters, then density, temperatures, +&c., of surface waters must be the important factors. Why should +biologists strive for deeper layers? Why should not deep sea life be +maintained by dead vegetable matter?) + +Here again the lecturer branched off into descriptions of water +bottles, deep sea thermometers, and current-meters, the which I think +have already received some notice in this diary. To what depth light +may extend is the difficult problem and we had some speculation, +especially in the debate on this question. Simpson suggested that +laboratory experiment should easily determine. Atkinson suggested +growth of bacteria on a scratched plate. The idea seems to be that +vegetable life cannot exist without red rays, which probably do not +extend beyond 7 feet or so. Against this is an extraordinary recovery +of _Holosphera Firidis_ by German expedition from 2000 fathoms; +this seems to have been confirmed. Bowers caused much amusement by +demanding to know 'If the pycnogs (pycnogonids) were more nearly +related to the arachnids (spiders) or crustaceans.' As a matter of +fact a very sensible question, but it caused amusement because of +its sudden display of long names. Nelson is an exceedingly capable +lecturer; he makes his subject very clear and is never too technical. + +_Thursday, June_ 15.--Keen cold wind overcast sky till 5.30 P.M. Spent +an idle day. + +Jimmy Pigg had an attack of colic in the stable this afternoon. He was +taken out and doctored on the floe, which seemed to improve matters, +but on return to the stable he was off his feed. + +This evening the Soldier tells me he has eaten his food, so I hope +all be well again. + +_Friday, June_ 16.--Overcast again--little wind but also little +moonlight. Jimmy Pigg quite recovered. + +Went round the bergs in the afternoon. A great deal of ice has fallen +from the irregular ones, showing that a great deal of weathering of +bergs goes on during the winter and hence that the life of a berg is +very limited, even if it remains in the high latitudes. + +To-night Debenham lectured on volcanoes. His matter is very good, but +his voice a little monotonous, so that there were signs of slumber +in the audience, but all woke up for a warm and amusing discussion +succeeding the lecture. + +The lecturer first showed a world chart showing distribution of +volcanoes, showing general tendency of eruptive explosions to occur +in lines. After following these lines in other parts of the world he +showed difficulty of finding symmetrical linear distribution near +McMurdo Sound. He pointed out incidentally the important inference +which could be drawn from the discovery of altered sandstones in the +Erebus region. He went to the shapes of volcanoes: + +The massive type formed by very fluid lavas--Mauna Loa (Hawaii), +Vesuvius, examples. + +The more perfect cones formed by ash talus--Fujiama, Discovery. + +The explosive type with parasitic cones--Erebus, Morning, Etna. + +Fissure eruption--historic only in Iceland, but best prehistoric +examples Deccan (India) and Oregon (U.S.). + +There is small ground for supposing relation between adjacent +volcanoes--activity in one is rarely accompanied by activity in the +other. It seems most likely that vent tubes are entirely separate. + +_Products of volcanoes_.--The lecturer mentioned the escape of +quantities of free hydrogen--there was some discussion on this +point afterwards; that water is broken up is easily understood, but +what becomes of the oxygen? Simpson suggests the presence of much +oxidizable material. + +CO_2 as a noxious gas also mentioned and discussed--causes mythical +'upas' tree--sulphurous fumes attend final stages. + +Practically little or no heat escapes through sides of a volcano. + +There was argument over physical conditions influencing +explosions--especially as to barometric influence. There was a good +deal of disjointed information on lavas, ropy or rapid flowing and +viscous--also on spatter cones and caverns. + +In all cases lavas cool slowly--heat has been found close to the +surface after 87 years. On Etna there is lava over ice. The lecturer +finally reviewed the volcanicity of our own neighbourhood. He described +various vents of Erebus, thinks Castle Rock a 'plug'--here some +discussion--Observation Hill part of old volcano, nothing in common +with Crater Hill. Inaccessible Island seems to have no connection +with Erebus. + +Finally we had a few words on the origin of volcanicity and afterwards +some discussion on an old point--the relation to the sea. Why are +volcanoes close to sea? Debenham thinks not cause and effect, but +two effects resulting from same cause. + +Great argument as to whether effect of barometric changes on Erebus +vapour can be observed. Not much was said about the theory of +volcanoes, but Debenham touched on American theories--the melting +out from internal magma. + +There was nothing much to catch hold of throughout, but discussion +of such a subject sorts one's ideas. + +_Saturday, June_ 17.--Northerly wind, temperature changeable, dropping +to -16°. + +Wind doubtful in the afternoon. Moon still obscured--it is very +trying. Feeling dull in spirit to-day. + +_Sunday, June_ 18.--Another blizzard--the weather is distressing. It +ought to settle down soon, but unfortunately the moon is passing. + +Held the usual Morning Service. Hymns not quite successful to-day. + +To-night Atkinson has taken the usual monthly measurement. I don't +think there has been much change. + +_Monday, June_ 19.--A pleasant change to find the air calm and the +sky clear--temperature down to -28°. At 1.30 the moon vanished behind +the western mountains, after which, in spite of the clear sky, it +was very dark on the floe. Went out on ski across the bay, then round +about the cape, and so home, facing a keen northerly wind on return. + +Atkinson is making a new fish trap hole; from one cause and another, +the breaking of the trap, and the freezing of the hole, no catch +has been made for some time. I don't think we shall get good catches +during the dark season, but Atkinson's own requirements are small, +and the fish, though nice enough, are not such a luxury as to be +greatly missed from our 'menu.' + +Our daily routine has possessed a settled regularity for a long +time. Clissold is up about 7 A.M. to start the breakfast. At 7.30 +Hooper starts sweeping the floor and setting the table. Between 8 and +8.30 the men are out and about, fetching ice for melting, &c. Anton +is off to feed the ponies, Demetri to see the dogs; Hooper bursts +on the slumberers with repeated announcements of the time, usually +a quarter of an hour ahead of the clock. There is a stretching of +limbs and an interchange of morning greetings, garnished with sleepy +humour. Wilson and Bowers meet in a state of nature beside a washing +basin filled with snow and proceed to rub glistening limbs with this +chilling substance. A little later with less hardihood some others +may be seen making the most of a meagre allowance of water. Soon after +8.30 I manage to drag myself from a very comfortable bed and make my +toilet with a bare pint of water. By about ten minutes to 9 my clothes +are on, my bed is made, and I sit down to my bowl of porridge; most +of the others are gathered about the table by this time, but there +are a few laggards who run the nine o'clock rule very close. The rule +is instituted to prevent delay in the day's work, and it has needed +a little pressure to keep one or two up to its observance. By 9.20 +breakfast is finished, and before the half-hour has struck the table +has been cleared. From 9.30 to 1.30 the men are steadily employed +on a programme of preparation for sledging, which seems likely to +occupy the greater part of the winter. The repair of sleeping-bags +and the alteration of tents have already been done, but there are many +other tasks uncompleted or not yet begun, such as the manufacture of +provision bags, crampons, sealskin soles, pony clothes, &c. + +Hooper has another good sweep up the hut after breakfast, washes the +mess traps, and generally tidies things. I think it a good thing +that in these matters the officers need not wait on themselves; +it gives long unbroken days of scientific work and must, therefore, +be an economy of brain in the long run. + +We meet for our mid-day meal at 1.30 or 1.45, and spend a very +cheerful half-hour over it. Afterwards the ponies are exercised, +weather permitting; this employs all the men and a few of the officers +for an hour or more--the rest of us generally take exercise in some +form at the same time. After this the officers go on steadily with +their work, whilst the men do odd jobs to while away the time. The +evening meal, our dinner, comes at 6.30, and is finished within the +hour. Afterwards people read, write, or play games, or occasionally +finish some piece of work. The gramophone is usually started by some +kindly disposed person, and on three nights of the week the lectures +to which I have referred are given. These lectures still command full +audiences and lively discussions. + +At 11 P.M. the acetylene lights are put out, and those who wish to +remain up or to read in bed must depend on candle-light. The majority +of candles are extinguished by midnight, and the night watchman alone +remains awake to keep his vigil by the light of an oil lamp. + +Day after day passes in this fashion. It is not a very active life +perhaps, but certainly not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than +eight hours out of the twenty-four. + +On Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning some extra bathing takes place; +chins are shaven, and perhaps clean garments donned. Such signs, +with the regular Service on Sunday, mark the passage of the weeks. + +To-night Day has given us a lecture on his motor sledge. He seems very +hopeful of success, but I fear is rather more sanguine in temperament +than his sledge is reliable in action. I wish I could have more +confidence in his preparations, as he is certainly a delightful +companion. + +_Tuesday, June_ 20.--Last night the temperature fell to -36°, the +lowest we have had this year. On the Ramp the minimum was -31°, not +the first indication of a reversed temperature gradient. We have had +a calm day, as is usual with a low thermometer. + +It was very beautiful out of doors this morning; as the crescent moon +was sinking in the west, Erebus showed a heavy vapour cloud, showing +that the quantity is affected by temperature rather than pressure. + +I'm glad to have had a good run on ski. + +The Cape Crozier party are preparing for departure, and heads have been +put together to provide as much comfort as the strenuous circumstances +will permit. I came across a hint as to the value of a double tent +in Sverdrup's book, 'New Land,' and (P.O.) Evans has made a lining +for one of the tents; it is secured on the inner side of the poles +and provides an air space inside the tent. I think it is going to be +a great success, and that it will go far to obviate the necessity of +considering the question of snow huts--though we shall continue our +efforts in this direction also. + +Another new departure is the decision to carry eiderdown sleeping-bags +inside the reindeer ones. + +With such an arrangement the early part of the journey is bound to +be comfortable, but when the bags get iced difficulties are pretty +certain to arise. + +Day has been devoting his energies to the creation of a blubber stove, +much assisted of course by the experience gained at Hut Point. + +The blubber is placed in an annular vessel, A. The oil from it passes +through a pipe, B, and spreads out on the surface of a plate, C, +with a containing flange; _d d_ are raised points which serve as +heat conductors; _e e_ is a tin chimney for flame with air holes at +its base. + +To start the stove the plate C must be warmed with spirit lamp or +primus, but when the blubber oil is well alight its heat is quite +sufficient to melt the blubber in And keep up the oil supply--the heat +gradually rises until the oil issues from B in a vaporised condition, +when, of course, the heat given off by the stove is intense. + +This stove was got going this morning in five minutes in the outer +temperature with the blubber hard frozen. It will make a great +difference to the Crozier Party if they can manage to build a hut, +and the experience gained will be everything for the Western Party +in the summer. With a satisfactory blubber stove it would never be +necessary to carry fuel on a coast journey, and we shall deserve well +of posterity if we can perfect one. + +The Crozier journey is to be made to serve a good many trial ends. As I +have already mentioned, each man is to go on a different food scale, +with a view to determining the desirable proportion of fats and +carbohydrates. Wilson is also to try the effect of a double wind-proof +suit instead of extra woollen clothing. + +If two suits of wind-proof will keep one as warm in the spring as a +single suit does in the summer, it is evident that we can face the +summit of Victoria Land with a very slight increase of weight. + +I think the new crampons, which will also be tried on this journey, +are going to be a great success. We have returned to the last +_Discovery_ type with improvements; the magnalium sole plates of +our own crampons are retained but shod with 1/2-inch steel spikes; +these plates are rivetted through canvas to an inner leather sole, +and the canvas is brought up on all sides to form a covering to the +'finnesko' over which it is laced--they are less than half the weight +of an ordinary ski boot, go on very easily, and secure very neatly. + +Midwinter Day, the turn of the season, is very close; it will be good +to have light for the more active preparations for the coming year. + +_Wednesday, June_ 21.--The temperature low again, falling to -36°. A +curious hazy look in the sky, very little wind. The cold is bringing +some minor troubles with the clockwork instruments in the open and +with the acetylene gas plant--no insuperable difficulties. Went for +a ski run round the bergs; found it very dark and uninteresting. + +The temperature remained low during night and Taylor reported a very +fine display of Aurora. + +_Thursday, June 22_.--MIDWINTER. The sun reached its maximum depression +at about 2.30 P.M. on the 22nd, Greenwich Mean Time: this is 2.30 +A.M. on the 23rd according to the local time of the 180th meridian +which we are keeping. Dinner to-night is therefore the meal which is +nearest the sun's critical change of course, and has been observed +with all the festivity customary at Xmas at home. + +At tea we broached an enormous Buzzard cake, with much gratitude to +its provider, Cherry-Garrard. In preparation for the evening our +'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table, +which itself was laid with glass and a plentiful supply of champagne +bottles instead of the customary mugs and enamel lime juice jugs. At +seven o'clock we sat down to an extravagant bill of fare as compared +with our usual simple diet. + +Beginning on seal soup, by common consent the best decoction that our +cook produces, we went on to roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, fried +potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Then followed a flaming plum-pudding +and excellent mince pies, and thereafter a dainty savoury of anchovy +and cod's roe. A wondrous attractive meal even in so far as judged +by our simple lights, but with its garnishments a positive feast, for +withal the table was strewn with dishes of burnt almonds, crystallised +fruits, chocolates and such toothsome kickshaws, whilst the unstinted +supply of champagne which accompanied the courses was succeeded by +a noble array of liqueur bottles from which choice could be made in +the drinking of toasts. + +I screwed myself up to a little speech which drew attention to the +nature of the celebration as a half-way mark not only in our winter +but in the plans of the Expedition as originally published. (I fear +there are some who don't realise how rapidly time passes and who have +barely begun work which by this time ought to be in full swing.) + +We had come through a summer season and half a winter,and had before +us half a winter and a second summer. We ought to know how we stood +in every respect; we did know how we stood in regard to stores and +transport, and I especially thanked the officer in charge of stores +and the custodians of the animals. I said that as regards the future, +chance must play a part, but that experience showed me that it would +have been impossible to have chosen people more fitted to support me +in the enterprise to the South than those who were to start in that +direction in the spring. I thanked them all for having put their +shoulders to the wheel and given me this confidence. + +We drank to the Success of the Expedition. + +Then everyone was called on to speak, starting on my left and working +round the table; the result was very characteristic of the various +individuals--one seemed to know so well the style of utterance to +which each would commit himself. + +Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly, +all had exceedingly kind things to say of me--in fact I was obliged +to request the omission of compliments at an early stage. Nevertheless +it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition of my attitude +towards the scientific workers of the Expedition, and I felt very +warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for expressing it. + +If good will and happy fellowship count towards success, very surely +shall we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment, much applauded, +that there had not been a single disagreement between any two members +of our party from the beginning. By the end of dinner a very cheerful +spirit prevailed, and the room was cleared for Ponting and his lantern, +whilst the gramophone gave forth its most lively airs. + +When the table was upended, its legs removed, and chairs arranged in +rows, we had quite a roomy lecture hall. Ponting had cleverly chosen +this opportunity to display a series of slides made from his own local +negatives. I have never so fully realised his work as on seeing these +beautiful pictures; they so easily outclass anything of their kind +previously taken in these regions. Our audience cheered vociferously. + +After this show the table was restored for snapdragon, and a brew of +milk punch was prepared in which we drank the health of Campbell's +party and of our good friends in the _Terra Nova_. Then the table +was again removed and a set of lancers formed. + +By this time the effect of stimulating liquid refreshment on men so +long accustomed to a simple life became apparent. Our biologist had +retired to bed, the silent Soldier bubbled with humour and insisted +on dancing with Anton. Evans, P.O., was imparting confidences in +heavy whispers. Pat' Keohane had grown intensely Irish and desirous +of political argument, whilst Clissold sat with a constant expansive +smile and punctuated the babble of conversation with an occasional +'Whoop' of delight or disjointed witticism. Other bright-eyed +individuals merely reached the capacity to enjoy that which under +ordinary circumstances might have passed without evoking a smile. + +In the midst of the revelry Bowers suddenly appeared, followed by some +satellites bearing an enormous Christmas Tree whose branches bore +flaming candles, gaudy crackers, and little presents for all. The +presents, I learnt, had been prepared with kindly thought by Miss +Souper (Mrs. Wilson's sister) and the tree had been made by Bowers of +pieces of stick and string with coloured paper to clothe its branches; +the whole erection was remarkably creditable and the distribution of +the presents caused much amusement. + +Whilst revelry was the order of the day within our hut, the elements +without seemed desirous of celebrating the occasion with equal emphasis +and greater decorum. The eastern sky was massed with swaying auroral +light, the most vivid and beautiful display that I had ever seen--fold +on fold the arches and curtains of vibrating luminosity rose and spread +across the sky, to slowly fade and yet again spring to glowing life. + +The brighter light seemed to flow, now to mass itself in wreathing +folds in one quarter, from which lustrous streamers shot upward, and +anon to run in waves through the system of some dimmer figure as if +to infuse new life within it. + +It is impossible to witness such a beautiful phenomenon without a +sense of awe, and yet this sentiment is not inspired by its brilliancy +but rather by its delicacy in light and colour, its transparency, and +above all by its tremulous evanescence of form. There is no glittering +splendour to dazzle the eye, as has been too often described; rather +the appeal is to the imagination by the suggestion of something +wholly spiritual, something instinct with a fluttering ethereal life, +serenely confident yet restlessly mobile. + +One wonders why history does not tell us of 'aurora' worshippers, so +easily could the phenomenon be considered the manifestation of 'god' +or 'demon.' To the little silent group which stood at gaze before such +enchantment it seemed profane to return to the mental and physical +atmosphere of our house. Finally when I stepped within, I was glad +to find that there had been a general movement bedwards, and in the +next half-hour the last of the roysterers had succumbed to slumber. + +Thus, except for a few bad heads in the morning, ended the High +Festival of Midwinter. + +There is little to be said for the artificial uplifting of animal +spirits, yet few could take great exception to so rare an outburst +in a long run of quiet days. + +After all we celebrated the birth of a season which for weal or woe +must be numbered amongst the greatest in our lives. + + + +CHAPTER XII + +Awaiting the Crozier Party + +_Friday, June_ 23--_Saturday, June_ 24.--Two quiet, uneventful days +and a complete return to routine. + +_Sunday, June_ 25.--I find I have made no mention of Cherry-Garrard's +first number of the revived _South Polar Times_, presented to me on +Midwinter Day. + +It is a very good little volume, bound by Day in a really charming +cover of carved venesta wood and sealskin. The contributors are +anonymous, but I have succeeded in guessing the identity of the +greater number. + +The Editor has taken a statistical paper of my own on the plans +for the Southern Journey and a well-written serious article on the +Geological History of our region by Taylor. Except for editorial and +meteorological notes the rest is conceived in the lighter vein. The +verse is mediocre except perhaps for a quaint play of words in an +amusing little skit on the sleeping-bag argument; but an article +entitled 'Valhalla' appears to me to be altogether on a different +level. It purports to describe the arrival of some of our party at the +gates proverbially guarded by St. Peter; the humour is really delicious +and nowhere at all forced. In the jokes of a small community it is +rare to recognise one which would appeal to an outsider, but some +of the happier witticisms of this article seem to me fit for wider +circulation than our journal enjoys at present. Above all there is +distinct literary merit in it--a polish which leaves you unable to +suggest the betterment of a word anywhere. + +I unhesitatingly attribute this effort to Taylor, but Wilson and +Garrard make Meares responsible for it. If they are right I shall +have to own that my judgment of attributes is very much at fault. I +must find out. [25] + +A quiet day. Read Church Service as usual; in afternoon walked up the +Ramp with Wilson to have a quiet talk before he departs. I wanted to +get his ideas as to the scientific work done. + +We agreed as to the exceptionally happy organisation of our party. + +I took the opportunity to warn Wilson concerning the desirability of +complete understanding with Ponting and Taylor with respect to their +photographs and records on their return to civilisation. + +The weather has been very mysterious of late; on the 23rd and 24th +it continuously threatened a blizzard, but now the sky is clearing +again with all signs of fine weather. + +_Monday, June_ 26.--With a clear sky it was quite twilighty at +noon to-day. Already such signs of day are inspiriting. In the +afternoon the wind arose with drift and again the prophets predicted +a blizzard. After an hour or two the wind fell and we had a calm, +clear evening and night. The blizzards proper seem to be always +preceded by an overcast sky in accordance with Simpson's theory. + +Taylor gave a most interesting lecture on the physiographic features +of the region traversed by his party in the autumn. His mind is very +luminous and clear and he treated the subject with a breadth of view +which was delightful. The illustrative slides were made from Debenham's +photographs, and many of them were quite beautiful. Ponting tells me +that Debenham knows quite a lot about photography and goes to work +in quite the right way. + +The lecture being a précis of Taylor's report there is no need to +recapitulate its matter. With the pictures it was startling to realise +the very different extent to which tributary glaciers have carved the +channels in which they lie. The Canadian Glacier lies dead, but at +'grade' it has cut a very deep channel. The 'double curtain' hangs +at an angle of 25°, with practically no channel. Mention was made of +the difference of water found in Lake Bonney by me in December 1903 +and the Western Party in February 1911. It seems certain that water +must go on accumulating in the lake during the two or three summer +months, and it is hard to imagine that all can be lost again by the +winter's evaporation. If it does, 'evaporation' becomes a matter of +primary importance. + +There was an excellent picture showing the find of sponges on the +Koettlitz Glacier. Heaps of large sponges were found containing +corals and some shells, all representative of present-day fauna. How +on earth did they get to the place where found? There was a good +deal of discussion on the point and no very satisfactory solution +offered. Cannot help thinking that there is something in the thought +that the glacier may have been weighted down with rubble which finally +disengaged itself and allowed the ice to rise. Such speculations +are interesting. + +Preparations for the start of the Crozier Party are now completed, +and the people will have to drag 253 lbs. per man--a big weight. + +Day has made an excellent little blubber lamp for lighting; it has +an annular wick and talc chimney; a small circular plate over the +wick conducts the heat down and raises the temperature of combustion, +so that the result is a clear white flame. + +We are certainly within measurable distance of using blubber in the +most effective way for both heating and lighting, and this is an +advance which is of very high importance to the future of Antarctic +Exploration. + +_Tuesday, June_ 27.--The Crozier Party departed this morning +in good spirits--their heavy load was distributed on two 9-feet +sledges. Ponting photographed them by flashlight and attempted to get a +cinematograph picture by means of a flash candle. But when the candle +was ignited it was evident that the light would not be sufficient +for the purpose and there was not much surprise when the film proved +a failure. The three travellers found they could pull their load +fairly easily on the sea ice when the rest of us stood aside for the +trial. I'm afraid they will find much more difficulty on the Barrier, +but there was nothing now to prevent them starting, and off they went. + +With helping contingent I went round the Cape. Taylor and Nelson +left at the Razor Back Island and report all well. Simpson, Meares +and Gran continued and have not yet returned. + +Gran just back on ski; left party at 5 1/4 miles. Says Meares and +Simpson are returning on foot. Reports a bad bit of surface between +Tent Island and Glacier Tongue. It was well that the party had +assistance to cross this. + +This winter travel is a new and bold venture, but the right men have +gone to attempt it. All good luck go with them. + + +Coal Consumption + +Bowers reports that present consumption (midwinter) = 4 blocks per day +(100 lbs.). + +An occasional block is required for the absolute magnetic hut. He +reports 8 1/2 tons used since landing. This is in excess of 4 blocks +per day as follows: + + + 8 1/2 tons in 150 days = 127 lbs. per diem. + = 889 lbs. per week, or nearly 8 cwt. + = 20 1/2 tons per year. + + +_Report August_ 4. + +Used to date = 9 tons = 20,160 lbs. + +Say 190 days at 106 lbs. per day. + +Coal remaining 20 1/2 tons. + +Estimate 8 tons to return of ship. + +Total estimate for year, 17 tons. We should have 13 or 14 tons for +next year. + + +A FRESH MS. BOOK + +_Quotations on the Flyleaf_ + +'Where the (Queen's) Law does not carry it is irrational to exact an +observance of other and weaker rules.'--RUDYARD KIPLING. + +Confident of his good intentions but doubtful of his fortitude. + +'So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter, the +purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that human +beings can set before themselves is not the pursuit of any such +chimera as the annihilation of the unknown; but it is simply the +unwearied endeavour to remove its boundaries a little further from +our little sphere of action.'--HUXLEY. + +_Wednesday, June_ 28.--The temperature has been hovering around -30° +with a clear sky--at midday it was exceptionally light, and even two +hours after noon I was able to pick my way amongst the boulders of +the Ramp. We miss the Crozier Party. Lectures have ceased during its +absence, so that our life is very quiet. + +_Thursday, June_ 29.--It seemed rather stuffy in the hut last night--I +found it difficult to sleep, and noticed a good many others in like +case. I found the temperature was only 50°, but that the small uptake +on the stove pipe was closed. I think it would be good to have a +renewal of air at bed time, but don't quite know how to manage this. + +It was calm all night and when I left the hut at 8.30. At 9 the wind +suddenly rose to 40 m.p.h. and at the same moment the temperature rose +10°. The wind and temperature curves show this sudden simultaneous +change more clearly than usual. The curious circumstance is that +this blow comes out of a clear sky. This will be disturbing to our +theories unless the wind drops again very soon. + +The wind fell within an hour almost as suddenly as it had arisen; the +temperature followed, only a little more gradually. One may well wonder +how such a phenomenon is possible. In the middle of a period of placid +calm and out of a clear sky there suddenly rushed upon one this volume +of comparatively warm air; it has come and gone like the whirlwind. + +Whence comes it and whither goeth? + +Went round the bergs after lunch on ski--splendid surface and quite +a good light. + +We are now getting good records with the tide gauge after a great +deal of trouble. Day has given much of his time to the matter, +and after a good deal of discussion has pretty well mastered the +principles. We brought a self-recording instrument from New Zealand, +but this was passed over to Campbell. It has not been an easy matter +to manufacture one for our own use. The wire from the bottom weight +is led through a tube filled with paraffin as in _Discovery_ days, +and kept tight by a counter weight after passage through a block on +a stanchion rising 6 feet above the floe. + +In his first instrument Day arranged for this wire to pass around a +pulley, the revolution of which actuated the pen of the recording +drum. This should have been successful but for the difficulty of +making good mechanical connection between the recorder and the +pulley. Backlash caused an unreliable record, and this arrangement +had to be abandoned. The motion of the wire was then made to actuate +the recorder through a hinged lever, and this arrangement holds, but +days and even weeks have been lost in grappling the difficulties of +adjustment between the limits of the tide and those of the recording +drum; then when all seemed well we found that the floe was not rising +uniformly with the water. It is hung up by the beach ice. When we +were considering the question of removing the whole apparatus to a +more distant point, a fresh crack appeared between it and the shore, +and on this 'hinge' the floe seems to be moving more freely. + +_Friday, June_ 30, 1911.--The temperature is steadily falling; we are +descending the scale of negative thirties and to-day reached its limit, +-39°. Day has manufactured a current vane, a simple arrangement: +up to the present he has used this near the Cape. There is little +doubt, however, that the water movement is erratic and irregular +inside the islands, and I have been anxious to get observations which +will indicate the movement in the 'Strait.' I went with him to-day to +find a crack which I thought must run to the north from Inaccessible +Island. We discovered it about 2 to 2 1/2 miles out and found it to +be an ideal place for such work, a fracture in the ice sheet which is +constantly opening and therefore always edged with thin ice. Have told +Day that I think a bottle weighted so as to give it a small negative +buoyancy, and attached to a fine line, should give as good results as +his vane and would be much handier. He now proposes to go one better +and put an electric light in the bottle. + +We found that our loose dogs had been attacking a seal, and then +came across a dead seal which had evidently been worried to death +some time ago. It appears Demetri saw more seal further to the north, +and this afternoon Meares has killed a large one as well as the one +which was worried this morning. + +It is good to find the seals so close, but very annoying to find that +the dogs have discovered their resting-place. + +The long spell of fine weather is very satisfactory. + +_Saturday, July_ 1, 1911.--We have designed new ski boots and I +think they are going to be a success. My object is to stick to the +Huitfeldt binding for sledging if possible. One must wear finnesko on +the Barrier, and with finnesko alone a loose binding is necessary. For +this we brought 'Finon' bindings, consisting of leather toe straps +and thong heel binding. With this arrangement one does not have good +control of his ski and stands the chance of a chafe on the 'tendon +Achillis.' Owing to the last consideration many had decided to go +with toe strap alone as we did in the _Discovery_. This brought into +my mind the possibility of using the iron cross bar and snap heel +strap of the Huitfeldt on a suitable overshoe. + +Evans, P.O., has arisen well to the occasion as a boot maker, and has +just completed a pair of shoes which are very nearly what we require. + +The soles have two thicknesses of seal skin cured with alum, stiffened +at the foot with a layer of venesta board, and raised at the heel on +a block of wood. The upper part is large enough to contain a finnesko +and is secured by a simple strap. A shoe weighs 13 oz. against 2 +lbs. for a single ski boot--so that shoe and finnesko together are +less weight than a boot. + +If we can perfect this arrangement it should be of the greatest use +to us. + +Wright has been swinging the pendulum in his cavern. Prodigious +trouble has been taken to keep the time, and this object has been +immensely helped by the telephone communication between the cavern, +the transit instrument, and the interior of the hut. The timekeeper is +perfectly placed. Wright tells me that his ice platform proves to be +five times as solid as the fixed piece of masonry used at Potsdam. The +only difficulty is the low temperature, which freezes his breath on +the glass window of the protecting dome. I feel sure these gravity +results are going to be very good. + +The temperature has been hanging in the minus thirties all day with +calm and clear sky, but this evening a wind has sprung up without +rise of temperature. It is now -32°, with a wind of 25 m.p.h.--a +pretty stiff condition to face outside! + +_Sunday, July_ 2.--There was wind last night, but this morning found +a settled calm again, with temperature as usual about -35°. The moon +is rising again; it came over the shoulder of Erebus about 5 P.M., +in second quarter. It will cross the meridian at night, worse luck, +but such days as this will be pleasant even with a low moon; one is +very glad to think the Crozier Party are having such a peaceful time. + +Sunday routine and nothing much to record. + +_Monday, July_ 3.--Another quiet day, the sky more suspicious in +appearance. Thin stratus cloud forming and dissipating overhead, +curling stratus clouds over Erebus. Wind at Cape Crozier seemed +a possibility. + +Our people have been far out on the floe. It is cheerful to see the +twinkling light of some worker at a water hole or hear the ring of +distant voices or swish of ski. + +_Tuesday, July_ 4.--A day of blizzard and adventure. + +The wind arose last night, and although the temperature advanced a +few degrees it remained at a very low point considering the strength +of the wind. + +This forenoon it was blowing 40 to 45 m.p.h. with a temperature -25° +to -28°. No weather to be in the open. + +In the afternoon the wind modified slightly. Taylor and Atkinson went +up to the Ramp thermometer screen. After this, entirely without my +knowledge, two adventurous spirits, Atkinson and Gran, decided to +start off over the floe, making respectively for the north and south +Bay thermometers, 'Archibald' and 'Clarence.' This was at 5.30; Gran +was back by dinner at 6.45, and it was only later that I learned that +he had gone no more than 200 or 300 yards from the land and that it +had taken him nearly an hour to get back again. + +Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was nearly +over at 7.15, although I had heard that the wind had dropped at the +beginning of dinner and that it remained very thick all round, with +light snow falling. + +Although I felt somewhat annoyed, I had no serious anxiety at this +time, and as several members came out of the hut I despatched them +short distances to shout and show lanterns and arranged to have a +paraffin flare lit on Wind Vane Hill. + +Evans, P.O., Crean and Keohane, being anxious for a walk, were sent +to the north with a lantern. Whilst this desultory search proceeded +the wind sprang up again from the south, but with no great force, and +meanwhile the sky showed signs of clearing and the moon appeared dimly +through the drifting clouds. With such a guide we momentarily looked +for the return of our wanderer, and with his continued absence our +anxiety grew. At 9.30 Evans, P.O., and his party returned without news +of him, and at last there was no denying the possibility of a serious +accident. Between 9.30 and 10 proper search parties were organised, and +I give the details to show the thoroughness which I thought necessary +to meet the gravity of the situation. I had by this time learnt that +Atkinson had left with comparatively light clothing and, still worse, +with leather ski boots on his feet; fortunately he had wind clothing. + +P.O. Evans was away first with Crean, Keohane, and Demetri, a light +sledge, a sleeping-bag, and a flask of brandy. His orders were to +search the edge of the land and glacier through the sweep of the Bay to +the Barne Glacier and to Cape Barne beyond, then to turn east along an +open crack and follow it to Inaccessible Island. Evans (Lieut.), with +Nelson, Forde, and Hooper, left shortly after, similarly equipped, +to follow the shore of the South Bay in similar fashion, then turn +out to the Razor Back and search there. Next Wright, Gran, and Lashly +set out for the bergs to look thoroughly about them and from thence +pass round and examine Inaccessible Island. After these parties got +away, Meares and Debenham started with a lantern to search to and fro +over the surface of our promontory. Simpson and Oates went out in a +direct line over the Northern floe to the 'Archibald' thermometer, +whilst Ponting and Taylor re-examined the tide crack towards the +Barne Glacier. Meanwhile Day went to and fro Wind Vane Hill to light +at intervals upon its crest bundles of tow well soaked in petrol. At +length Clissold and I were left alone in the hut, and as the hours went +by I grew ever more alarmed. It was impossible for me to conceive how +an able man could have failed to return to the hut before this or by +any means found shelter in such clothing in such weather. Atkinson had +started for a point a little more than a mile away; at 10.30 he had +been five hours away; what conclusion could be drawn? And yet I felt +it most difficult to imagine an accident on open floe with no worse +pitfall than a shallow crack or steep-sided snow drift. At least I +could feel that every spot which was likely to be the scene of such an +accident would be searched. Thus 11 o'clock came without change, then +11.30 with its 6 hours of absence. But at 11.45 I heard voices from +the Cape, and presently the adventure ended to my extreme relief when +Meares and Debenham led our wanderer home. He was badly frostbitten +in the hand and less seriously on the face, and though a good deal +confused, as men always are on such occasions, he was otherwise well. + +His tale is confused, but as far as one can gather he did not go more +than a quarter of a mile in the direction of the thermometer screen +before he decided to turn back. He then tried to walk with the wind +a little on one side on the bearing he had originally observed, and +after some time stumbled on an old fish trap hole, which he knew to +be 200 yards from the Cape. He made this 200 yards in the direction +he supposed correct, and found nothing. In such a situation had he +turned east he must have hit the land somewhere close to the hut and +so found his way to it. The fact that he did not, but attempted to +wander straight on, is clear evidence of the mental condition caused +by that situation. There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man has +not only to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must struggle +with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning power which +is far more likely to undo him. + +In fact Atkinson has really no very clear idea of what happened to him +after he missed the Cape. He seems to have wandered aimlessly up wind +till he hit an island; he walked all round this; says he couldn't +see a yard at this time; fell often into the tide crack; finally +stopped under the lee of some rocks; here got his hand frostbitten +owing to difficulty of getting frozen mit on again, finally got it on; +started to dig a hole to wait in. Saw something of the moon and left +the island; lost the moon and wanted to go back; could find nothing; +finally stumbled on another island, perhaps the same one; waited +again, again saw the moon, now clearing; shaped some sort of course +by it--then saw flare on Cape and came on rapidly--says he shouted to +someone on Cape quite close to him, greatly surprised not to get an +answer. It is a rambling tale to-night and a half thawed brain. It is +impossible to listen to such a tale without appreciating that it has +been a close escape or that there would have been no escape had the +blizzard continued. The thought that it would return after a short +lull was amongst the worst with me during the hours of waiting. + +2 A.M.--The search parties have returned and all is well again, but +we must have no more of these very unnecessary escapades. Yet it is +impossible not to realise that this bit of experience has done more +than all the talking I could have ever accomplished to bring home to +our people the dangers of a blizzard. + +_Wednesday, July_ 5.--Atkinson has a bad hand to-day, immense blisters +on every finger giving them the appearance of sausages. To-night +Ponting has photographed the hand. + +As I expected, some amendment of Atkinson's tale as written last +night is necessary, partly due to some lack of coherency in the tale +as first told and partly a reconsideration of the circumstances by +Atkinson himself. + +It appears he first hit Inaccessible Island, and got his hand +frostbitten before he reached it. It was only on arrival in its lee +that he discovered the frostbite. He must have waited there some +time, then groped his way to the western end thinking he was near +the Ramp. Then wandering away in a swirl of drift to clear some +irregularities at the ice foot, he completely lost the island when +he could only have been a few yards from it. + +He seems in this predicament to have clung to the old idea of walking +up wind, and it must be considered wholly providential that on this +course he next struck Tent Island. It was round this island that he +walked, finally digging himself a shelter on its lee side under the +impression that it was Inaccessible Island. When the moon appeared he +seems to have judged its bearing well, and as he travelled homeward +he was much surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island appear on +his left. The distance of Tent Island, 4 to 5 miles, partly accounts +for the time he took in returning. Everything goes to confirm the +fact that he had a very close shave of being lost altogether. + +For some time past some of the ponies have had great irritation of +the skin. I felt sure it was due to some parasite, though the Soldier +thought the food responsible and changed it. + +To-day a tiny body louse was revealed under Atkinson's microscope +after capture from 'Snatcher's' coat. A dilute solution of carbolic is +expected to rid the poor beasts of their pests, but meanwhile one or +two of them have rubbed off patches of hair which they can ill afford +to spare in this climate. I hope we shall get over the trouble quickly. + +The day has been gloriously fine again, with bright moonlight all the +afternoon. It was a wondrous sight to see Erebus emerge from soft filmy +clouds of mist as though some thin veiling had been withdrawn with +infinite delicacy to reveal the pure outline of this moonlit mountain. + +_Thursday, July_ 6, _continued_.--The temperature has taken a +plunge--to -46° last night. It is now -45°, with a ten-mile breeze +from the south. Frostbiting weather! + +Went for a short run on foot this forenoon and a longer one on ski +this afternoon. The surface is bad after the recent snowfall. A new +pair of sealskin overshoes for ski made by Evans seem to be a complete +success. He has modified the shape of the toe to fit the ski irons +better. I am very pleased with this arrangement. + +I find it exceedingly difficult to settle down to solid work just at +present and keep putting off the tasks which I have set myself. + +The sun has not yet risen a degree of the eleven degrees below our +horizon which it was at noon on Midwinter Day, and yet to-day there +was a distinct red in the northern sky. Perhaps such sunset colours +have something to do with this cold snap. + +_Friday, July_ 7.--The temperature fell to -49° last night--our record +so far, and likely to remain so, one would think. This morning it was +fine and calm, temperature -45°. But this afternoon a 30-mile wind +sprang up from the S.E., and the temperature only gradually rose +to -30°, never passing above that point. I thought it a little too +strenuous and so was robbed of my walk. + +The dogs' coats are getting pretty thick, and they seem to take +matters pretty comfortably. The ponies are better, I think, but I +shall be glad when we are sure of having rid them of their pest. + +I was the victim of a very curious illusion to-day. On our small +heating stove stands a cylindrical ice melter which keeps up the +supply of water necessary for the dark room and other scientific +instruments. This iron container naturally becomes warm if it is not +fed with ice, and it is generally hung around with socks and mits which +require drying. I put my hand on the cylindrical vessel this afternoon +and withdrew it sharply with the sensation of heat. To verify the +impression I repeated the action two or three times, when it became +so strong that I loudly warned the owners of the socks, &c., of the +peril of burning to which they were exposed. Upon this Meares said, +'But they filled the melter with ice a few minutes ago,' and then, +coming over to feel the surface himself, added, 'Why, it's cold, +sir.' And indeed so it was. The slightly damp chilled surface of the +iron had conveyed to me the impression of excessive heat. + +There is nothing intrinsically new in this observation; it has often +been noticed that metal surfaces at low temperatures give a sensation +of burning to the bare touch, but none the less it is an interesting +variant of the common fact. + +Apropos. Atkinson is suffering a good deal from his hand: the frostbite +was deeper than I thought; fortunately he can now feel all his fingers, +though it was twenty-four hours before sensation returned to one +of them. + +_Monday, July_ 10.--We have had the worst gale I have ever known in +these regions and have not yet done with it. + +The wind started at about mid-day on Friday, and increasing in +violence reached an average of 60 miles for one hour on Saturday, the +gusts at this time exceeding 70 m.p.h. This force of wind, although +exceptional, has not been without parallel earlier in the year, but +the extraordinary feature of this gale was the long continuance of +a very cold temperature. On Friday night the thermometer registered +-39°. Throughout Saturday and the greater part of Sunday it did +not rise above -35°. Late yesterday it was in the minus twenties, +and to-day at length it has risen to zero. + +Needless to say no one has been far from the hut. It was my turn for +duty on Saturday night, and on the occasions when I had to step out of +doors I was struck with the impossibility of enduring such conditions +for any length of time. One seemed to be robbed of breath as they +burst on one--the fine snow beat in behind the wind guard, and ten +paces against the wind were sufficient to reduce one's face to the +verge of frostbite. To clear the anemometer vane it is necessary to go +to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder. Twice whilst engaged +in this task I had literally to lean against the wind with head bent +and face averted and so stagger crab-like on my course. In those two +days of really terrible weather our thoughts often turned to absentees +at Cape Crozier with the devout hope that they may be safely housed. + +They are certain to have been caught by this gale, but I trust +before it reached them they had managed to get up some sort of +shelter. Sometimes I have imagined them getting much more wind than +we do, yet at others it seems difficult to believe that the Emperor +penguins have chosen an excessively wind-swept area for their rookery. + +To-day with the temperature at zero one can walk about outside without +inconvenience in spite of a 50-mile wind. Although I am loath to +believe it there must be some measure of acclimatisation, for it +is certain we should have felt to-day's wind severely when we first +arrived in McMurdo Sound. + +_Tuesday, July_ 11.--Never was such persistent bad weather. To-day the +temperature is up to 5° to 7°, the wind 40 to 50 m.p.h., the air +thick with snow, and the moon a vague blue. This is the fourth day +of gale; if one reflects on the quantity of transported air (nearly +4,000 miles) one gets a conception of the transference which such a +gale effects and must conclude that potentially warm upper currents +are pouring into our polar area from more temperate sources. + +The dogs are very gay and happy in the comparative warmth. I have been +going to and fro on the home beach and about the rocky knolls in its +environment--in spite of the wind it was very warm. I dug myself a +hole in a drift in the shelter of a large boulder and lay down in it, +and covered my legs with loose snow. It was so warm that I could have +slept very comfortably. + +I have been amused and pleased lately in observing the manners +and customs of the persons in charge of our stores; quite a number +of secret caches exist in which articles of value are hidden from +public knowledge so that they may escape use until a real necessity +arises. The policy of every storekeeper is to have something up his +sleeve for a rainy day. For instance, Evans (P.O.), after thoroughly +examining the purpose of some individual who is pleading for a piece +of canvas, will admit that he may have a small piece somewhere which +could be used for it, when, as a matter of fact, he possesses quite +a number of rolls of that material. + +Tools, metal material, leather, straps and dozens of items are +administered with the same spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, +Lashly, Oates and Meares, while our main storekeeper Bowers even +affects to bemoan imaginary shortages. Such parsimony is the best +guarantee that we are prepared to face any serious call. + +_Wednesday, July_ 12.--All night and to-day wild gusts of wind shaking +the hut; long, ragged, twisted wind-cloud in the middle heights. A +watery moon shining through a filmy cirrostratus--the outlook +wonderfully desolate with its ghostly illumination and patchy clouds +of flying snow drift. It would be hardly possible for a tearing, raging +wind to make itself more visible. At Wind Vane Hill the anemometer has +registered 68 miles between 9 and 10 A.M.--a record. The gusts at the +hut frequently exceed 70 m.p.h.--luckily the temperature is up to 5°, +so that there is no hardship for the workers outside. + +_Thursday, July_ 13.--The wind continued to blow throughout the night, +with squalls of even greater violence than before; a new record was +created by a gust of 77 m.p.h. shown by the anemometer. + +The snow is so hard blown that only the fiercest gusts raise the +drifting particles--it is interesting to note the balance of nature +whereby one evil is eliminated by the excess of another. + +For an hour after lunch yesterday the gale showed signs of moderation +and the ponies had a short walk over the floe. Out for exercise at this +time I was obliged to lean against the wind, my light overall clothes +flapping wildly and almost dragged from me; later when the wind rose +again it was quite an effort to stagger back to the hut against it. + +This morning the gale still rages, but the sky is much clearer; +the only definite clouds are those which hang to the southward of +Erebus summit, but the moon, though bright, still exhibits a watery +appearance, showing that there is still a thin stratus above us. + +The work goes on very steadily--the men are making crampons and +ski boots of the new style. Evans is constructing plans of the Dry +Valley and Koettlitz Glacier with the help of the Western Party. The +physicists are busy always, Meares is making dog harness, Oates ridding +the ponies of their parasites, and Ponting printing from his negatives. + +Science cannot be served by 'dilettante' methods, but demands a mind +spurred by ambition or the satisfaction of ideals. + +Our most popular game for evening recreation is chess; so many players +have developed that our two sets of chessmen are inadequate. + +_Friday, July_ 14.--We have had a horrible fright and are not yet +out of the wood. + +At noon yesterday one of the best ponies, 'Bones,' suddenly went off +his feed--soon after it was evident that he was distressed and there +could be no doubt that he was suffering from colic. Oates called my +attention to it, but we were neither much alarmed, remembering the +speedy recovery of 'Jimmy Pigg' under similar circumstances. Later +the pony was sent out for exercise with Crean. I passed him twice +and seemed to gather that things were well, but Crean afterwards told +me that he had had considerable trouble. Every few minutes the poor +beast had been seized with a spasm of pain, had first dashed forward +as though to escape it and then endeavoured to lie down. Crean had +had much difficulty in keeping him in, and on his legs, for he is +a powerful beast. When he returned to the stable he was evidently +worse, and Oates and Anton patiently dragged a sack to and fro +under his stomach. Every now and again he attempted to lie down, +and Oates eventually thought it wiser to let him do so. Once down, +his head gradually drooped until he lay at length, every now and again +twitching very horribly with the pain and from time to time raising +his head and even scrambling to his legs when it grew intense. I don't +think I ever realised before how pathetic a horse could be under such +conditions; no sound escapes him, his misery can only be indicated by +those distressing spasms and by dumb movements of the head turned with +a patient expression always suggestive of appeal. Although alarmed +by this time, remembering the care with which the animals are being +fed I could not picture anything but a passing indisposition. But as +hour after hour passed without improvement, it was impossible not to +realise that the poor beast was dangerously ill. Oates administered +an opium pill and later on a second, sacks were heated in the oven and +placed on the poor beast; beyond this nothing could be done except to +watch--Oates and Crean never left the patient. As the evening wore +on I visited the stable again and again, but only to hear the same +tale--no improvement. Towards midnight I felt very downcast. It is so +very certain that we cannot afford to lose a single pony--the margin +of safety has already been far overstepped, we are reduced to face +the circumstance that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly +risk failure. + +So far everything has gone so well with them that my fears of a loss +had been lulled in a growing hope that all would be well--therefore +at midnight, when poor 'Bones' had continued in pain for twelve hours +and showed little sign of improvement, I felt my fleeting sense of +security rudely shattered. + +It was shortly after midnight when I was told that the animal seemed +a little easier. At 2.30 I was again in the stable and found the +improvement had been maintained; the horse still lay on its side +with outstretched head, but the spasms had ceased, its eye looked +less distressed, and its ears pricked to occasional noises. As I +stood looking it suddenly raised its head and rose without effort to +its legs; then in a moment, as though some bad dream had passed, it +began to nose at some hay and at its neighbour. Within three minutes +it had drunk a bucket of water and had started to feed. + +I went to bed at 3 with much relief. At noon to-day the immediate +cause of the trouble and an indication that there is still risk were +disclosed in a small ball of semi-fermented hay covered with mucus +and containing tape worms; so far not very serious, but unfortunately +attached to this mass was a strip of the lining of the intestine. + +Atkinson, from a humanly comparative point of view, does not think +this is serious if great care is taken with the food for a week or so, +and so one can hope for the best. + +Meanwhile we have had much discussion as to the first cause of the +difficulty. The circumstances possibly contributing are as follows: +fermentation of the hay, insufficiency of water, overheated stable, +a chill from exercise after the gale--I think all these may have had +a bearing on the case. It can scarcely be coincidence that the two +ponies which have suffered so far are those which are nearest the stove +end of the stable. In future the stove will be used more sparingly, +a large ventilating hole is to be made near it and an allowance of +water is to be added to the snow hitherto given to the animals. In +the food line we can only exercise such precautions as are possible, +but one way or another we ought to be able to prevent any more danger +of this description. + +_Saturday, July_ 15.--There was strong wind with snow this morning +and the wind remained keen and cold in the afternoon, but to-night +it has fallen calm with a promising clear sky outlook. Have been +up the Ramp, clambering about in my sealskin overshoes, which seem +extraordinarily satisfactory. + +Oates thinks a good few of the ponies have got worms and we are +considering means of ridding them. 'Bones' seems to be getting on +well, though not yet quite so buckish as he was before his trouble. A +good big ventilator has been fitted in the stable. It is not easy +to get over the alarm of Thursday night--the situation is altogether +too critical. + +_Sunday, July_ 16.--Another slight alarm this morning. The pony +'China' went off his feed at breakfast time and lay down twice. He +was up and well again in half an hour; but what on earth is it that +is disturbing these poor beasts? + +Usual Sunday routine. Quiet day except for a good deal of wind off +and on. The Crozier Party must be having a wretched time. + +_Monday, July_ 17.--The weather still very unsettled--the wind comes +up with a rush to fade in an hour or two. Clouds chase over the sky +in similar fashion: the moon has dipped during daylight hours, and +so one way and another there is little to attract one out of doors. + +Yet we are only nine days off the 'light value' of the day when we +left off football--I hope we shall be able to recommence the game in +that time. + +I am glad that the light is coming for more than one reason. The gale +and consequent inaction not only affected the ponies, Ponting is not +very fit as a consequence--his nervous temperament is of the quality +to take this wintering experience badly--Atkinson has some difficulty +in persuading him to take exercise--he managed only by dragging him +out to his own work, digging holes in the ice. Taylor is another +backslider in the exercise line and is not looking well. If we can +get these people to run about at football all will be well. Anyway +the return of the light should cure all ailments physical and mental. + +_Tuesday, July_ 18.--A very brilliant red sky at noon to-day and +enough light to see one's way about. + +This fleeting hour of light is very pleasant, but of course dependent +on a clear sky, very rare. Went round the outer berg in the afternoon; +it was all I could do to keep up with 'Snatcher' on the homeward +round--speaking well for his walking powers. + +_Wednesday, July_ 19.--Again calm and pleasant. The temperature is +gradually falling down to -35°. Went out to the old working crack +[26] north of Inaccessible Island--Nelson and Evans had had great +difficulty in rescuing their sounding sledge, which had been left +near here before the gale. The course of events is not very clear, +but it looks as though the gale pressed up the crack, raising broken +pieces of the thin ice formed after recent opening movements. These +raised pieces had become nuclei of heavy snow drifts, which in turn +weighing down the floe had allowed water to flow in over the sledge +level. It is surprising to find such a big disturbance from what +appears to be a simple cause. This crack is now joined, and the +contraction is taking on a new one which has opened much nearer to +us and seems to run to C. Barne. + +We have noticed a very curious appearance of heavenly bodies when +setting in a north-westerly direction. About the time of midwinter the +moon observed in this position appeared in a much distorted shape of +blood red colour. It might have been a red flare or distant bonfire, +but could not have been guessed for the moon. Yesterday the planet +Venus appeared under similar circumstances as a ship's side-light +or Japanese lantern. In both cases there was a flickering in the +light and a change of colour from deep orange yellow to blood red, +but the latter was dominant. + +_Thursday, July_ 20, _Friday_ 21, _Saturday_ 22.--There is very little +to record--the horses are going on well, all are in good form, at +least for the moment. They drink a good deal of water in the morning. + +_Saturday, July_ 22, _continued_.--This and the better ventilation +of the stable make for improvement we think--perhaps the increase of +salt allowance is also beneficial. + +To-day we have another raging blizzard--the wind running up to 72 +m.p.h. in gusts--one way and another the Crozier Party must have had +a pretty poor time. [27] I am thankful to remember that the light +will be coming on apace now. + +_Monday, July_ 24.--The blizzard continued throughout yesterday +(Sunday), in the evening reaching a record force of 82 m.p.h. The +vane of our anemometer is somewhat sheltered: Simpson finds the hill +readings 20 per cent. higher. Hence in such gusts as this the free +wind must reach nearly 100 m.p.h.--a hurricane force. To-day Nelson +found that his sounding sledge had been turned over. We passed a quiet +Sunday with the usual Service to break the week-day routine. During +my night watch last night I could observe the rapid falling of the +wind, which on dying away left a still atmosphere almost oppressively +warm at 7°. The temperature has remained comparatively high to-day. I +went to see the crack at which soundings were taken a week ago--then +it was several feet open with thin ice between--now it is pressed up +into a sharp ridge 3 to 4 feet high: the edge pressed up shows an 18 +inch thickness--this is of course an effect of the warm weather. + +_Tuesday, July_ 25, _Wednesday, July_ 26.--There is really very little +to be recorded in these days, life proceeds very calmly if somewhat +monotonously. Everyone seems fit, there is no sign of depression. To +all outward appearance the ponies are in better form than they have +ever been; the same may be said of the dogs with one or two exceptions. + +The light comes on apace. To-day (Wednesday) it was very beautiful at +noon: the air was very clear and the detail of the Western Mountains +was revealed in infinitely delicate contrasts of light. + +_Thursday, July_ 27, _Friday, July_ 28.--Calmer days: the sky rosier: +the light visibly advancing. We have never suffered from low spirits, +so that the presence of day raises us above a normal cheerfulness to +the realm of high spirits. + +The light, merry humour of our company has never been eclipsed, the +good-natured, kindly chaff has never ceased since those early days +of enthusiasm which inspired them--they have survived the winter days +of stress and already renew themselves with the coming of spring. If +pessimistic moments had foreseen the growth of rifts in the bond forged +by these amenities, they stand prophetically falsified; there is no +longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity of +purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never been +equalled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide us +[over] all minor difficulties. It is a good omen. + +_Saturday, July_ 29, _Sunday, July_ 30.--Two quiet days, temperature +low in the minus thirties--an occasional rush of wind lasting for +but a few minutes. + +One of our best sledge dogs, 'Julick,' has disappeared. I'm afraid +he's been set on by the others at some distant spot and we shall see +nothing more but his stiffened carcass when the light returns. Meares +thinks the others would not have attacked him and imagines he has +fallen into the water in some seal hole or crack. In either case I'm +afraid we must be resigned to another loss. It's an awful nuisance. + +Gran went to C. Royds to-day. I asked him to report on the open +water, and so he went on past the Cape. As far as I can gather he +got half-way to C. Bird before he came to thin ice; for at least 5 +or 6 miles past C. Royds the ice is old and covered with wind-swept +snow. This is very unexpected. In the _Discovery_ first year the ice +continually broke back to the Glacier Tongue: in the second year it +must have gone out to C. Royds very early in the spring if it did +not go out in the winter, and in the _Nimrod_ year it was rarely fast +beyond C. Royds. It is very strange, especially as this has been the +windiest year recorded so far. Simpson says the average has exceeded +20 m.p.h. since the instruments were set up, and this figure has for +comparison 9 and 12 m.p.h. for the two _Discovery_ years. There remains +a possibility that we have chosen an especially wind-swept spot for +our station. Yet I can scarcely believe that there is generally more +wind here than at Hut Point. + +I was out for two hours this morning--it was amazingly pleasant +to be able to see the inequalities of one's path, and the familiar +landmarks bathed in violet light. An hour after noon the northern +sky was intensely red. + +_Monday, July_ 31.--It was overcast to-day and the light not quite +so good, but this is the last day of another month, and August means +the sun. + +One begins to wonder what the Crozier Party is doing. It has been +away five weeks. + +The ponies are getting buckish. Chinaman squeals and kicks in the +stable, Nobby kicks without squealing, but with even more purpose--last +night he knocked down a part of his stall. The noise of these animals +is rather trying at night--one imagines all sorts of dreadful things +happening, but when the watchman visits the stables its occupants +blink at him with a sleepy air as though the disturbance could not +possibly have been there! + +There was a glorious northern sky to-day; the horizon was clear and the +flood of red light illuminated the under side of the broken stratus +cloud above, producing very beautiful bands of violet light. Simpson +predicts a blizzard within twenty-four hours--we are interested to +watch results. + +_Tuesday, August_ 1.--The month has opened with a very beautiful +day. This morning I took a circuitous walk over our land 'estate,' +winding to and fro in gulleys filled with smooth ice patches or loose +sandy soil, with a twofold object. I thought I might find the remains +of poor Julick--in this I was unsuccessful; but I wished further to +test our new crampons, and with these I am immensely pleased--they +possess every virtue in a footwear designed for marching over smooth +ice--lightness, warmth, comfort, and ease in the putting on and off. + +The light was especially good to-day; the sun was directly reflected +by a single twisted iridescent cloud in the north, a brilliant and +most beautiful object. The air was still, and it was very pleasant to +hear the crisp sounds of our workers abroad. The tones of voices, the +swish of ski or the chipping of an ice pick carry two or three miles +on such days--more than once to-day we could hear the notes of some +blithe singer--happily signalling the coming of the spring and the sun. + +This afternoon as I sit in the hut I find it worthy of record that two +telephones are in use: the one keeping time for Wright who works at +the transit instrument, and the other bringing messages from Nelson +at his ice hole three-quarters of a mile away. This last connection +is made with a bare aluminium wire and earth return, and shows that +we should have little difficulty in completing our circuit to Hut +Point as is contemplated. + + +Account of the Winter Journey + +_Wednesday, August_ 2.--The Crozier Party returned last night after +enduring for five weeks the hardest conditions on record. They looked +more weather-worn than anyone I have yet seen. Their faces were scarred +and wrinkled, their eyes dull, their hands whitened and creased with +the constant exposure to damp and cold, yet the scars of frostbite +were very few and this evil had never seriously assailed them. The +main part of their afflictions arose, and very obviously arose, from +sheer lack of sleep, and to-day after a night's rest our travellers +are very different in appearance and mental capacity. + +The story of a very wonderful performance must be told by the +actors. It is for me now to give but an outline of the journey and +to note more particularly the effects of the strain which they have +imposed on themselves and the lessons which their experiences teach +for our future guidance. + +Wilson is very thin, but this morning very much his keen, wiry +self--Bowers is quite himself to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly +puffy in the face and still looks worn. It is evident that he has +suffered most severely--but Wilson tells me that his spirit never +wavered for a moment. Bowers has come through best, all things +considered, and I believe he is the hardest traveller that ever +undertook a Polar journey, as well as one of the most undaunted; +more by hint than direct statement I gather his value to the party, +his untiring energy and the astonishing physique which enables him +to continue to work under conditions which are absolutely paralysing +to others. Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little man. + +So far as one can gather, the story of this journey in brief is much +as follows: The party reached the Barrier two days after leaving +C. Evans, still pulling their full load of 250 lbs. per man; the +snow surface then changed completely and grew worse and worse as they +advanced. For one day they struggled on as before, covering 4 miles, +but from this onward they were forced to relay, and found the half +load heavier than the whole one had been on the sea ice. Meanwhile +the temperature had been falling, and now for more than a week the +thermometer fell below -60°. On one night the minimum showed -71°, +and on the next -77°, 109° of frost. Although in this truly fearful +cold the air was comparatively still, every now and again little puffs +of wind came eddying across the snow plain with blighting effect. No +civilised being has ever encountered such conditions before with only +a tent of thin canvas to rely on for shelter. We have been looking +up the records to-day and find that Amundsen on a journey to the +N. magnetic pole in March encountered temperatures similar in degree +and recorded a minimum of 79°; but he was with Esquimaux who built +him an igloo shelter nightly; he had a good measure of daylight; +the temperatures given are probably 'unscreened' from radiation, and +finally, he turned homeward and regained his ship after five days' +absence. Our party went outward and remained absent for _five weeks_. + +It took the best part of a fortnight to cross the coldest region, +and then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area. Blizzard +followed blizzard, the sky was constantly overcast and they staggered +on in a light which was little better than complete darkness; +sometimes they found themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the +left of their track, and sometimes diving into the pressure ridges +on the right amidst crevasses and confused ice disturbance. Reaching +the foothills near C. Crozier, they ascended 800 feet, then packed +their belongings over a moraine ridge and started to build a hut. It +took three days to build the stone walls and complete the roof with +the canvas brought for the purpose. Then at last they could attend +to the object of the journey. + +The scant twilight at midday was so short that they must start in the +dark and be prepared for the risk of missing their way in returning +without light. On the first day in which they set forth under these +conditions it took them two hours to reach the pressure ridges, and to +clamber over them roped together occupied nearly the same time; finally +they reached a place above the rookery where they could hear the +birds squawking, but from which they were quite unable to find a way +down. The poor light was failing and they returned to camp. Starting +again on the following day they wound their way through frightful ice +disturbances under the high basalt cliffs; in places the rock overhung, +and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel hollowed in +the ice. At last they reached the sea ice, but now the light was so +far spent they were obliged to rush everything. Instead of the 2000 +or 3000 nesting birds which had been seen here in _Discovery_ days, +they could now only count about 100; they hastily killed and skinned +three to get blubber for their stove, and collecting six eggs, three +of which alone survived, they dashed for camp. + +It is possible the birds are deserting this rookery, but it is also +possible that this early date found only a small minority of the +birds which will be collected at a later one. The eggs, which have not +yet been examined, should throw light on this point. Wilson observed +yet another proof of the strength of the nursing instinct in these +birds. In searching for eggs both he and Bowers picked up rounded +pieces of ice which these ridiculous creatures had been cherishing +with fond hope. + +The light had failed entirely by the time the party were clear of +the pressure ridges on their return, and it was only by good luck +they regained their camp. + +That night a blizzard commenced, increasing in fury from moment to +moment. They now found that the place chosen for the hut for shelter +was worse than useless. They had far better have built in the open, +for the fierce wind, instead of striking them directly, was deflected +on to them in furious whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and rock +placed on the roof were whirled away and the canvas ballooned up, +tearing and straining at its securings--its disappearance could only +be a question of time. They had erected their tent with some valuables +inside close to the hut; it had been well spread and more than amply +secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore it up and +whirled it away. Inside the hut they waited for the roof to vanish, +wondering what they could do if it went, and vainly endeavouring to +make it secure. After fourteen hours it went, as they were trying +to pin down one corner. The smother of snow was on them, and they +could only dive for their sleeping-bags with a gasp. Bowers put his +head out once and said, 'We're all right,' in as near his ordinary +tones as he could compass. The others replied 'Yes, we're all right,' +and all were silent for a night and half a day whilst the wind howled +on; the snow entered every chink and crevasse of the sleeping-bags, +and the occupants shivered and wondered how it would all end. + +This gale was the same (July 23) in which we registered our maximum +wind force, and it seems probable that it fell on C. Crozier even +more violently than on us. + +The wind fell at noon the following day; the forlorn travellers crept +from their icy nests, made shift to spread their floor-cloth overhead, +and lit their primus. They tasted their first food for forty-eight +hours and began to plan a means to build a shelter on the homeward +route. They decided that they must dig a large pit nightly and cover +it as best they could with their floorcloth. But now fortune befriended +them; a search to the north revealed the tent lying amongst boulders a +quarter of a mile away, and, strange to relate, practically uninjured, +a fine testimonial for the material used in its construction. On the +following day they started homeward, and immediately another blizzard +fell on them, holding them prisoners for two days. By this time the +miserable condition of their effects was beyond description. The +sleeping-bags were far too stiff to be rolled up, in fact they were +so hard frozen that attempts to bend them actually split the skins; +the eiderdown bags inside Wilson's and C.-G.'s reindeer covers served +but to fitfully stop the gaps made by such rents. All socks, finnesko, +and mits had long been coated with ice; placed in breast pockets or +inside vests at night they did not even show signs of thawing, much +less of drying. It sometimes took C.-G. three-quarters of an hour to +get into his sleeping-bag, so flat did it freeze and so difficult was +it to open. It is scarcely possible to realise the horrible discomforts +of the forlorn travellers as they plodded back across the Barrier +with the temperature again constantly below -60°. In this fashion +they reached Hut Point and on the following night our home quarters. + +Wilson is disappointed at seeing so little of the penguins, but to me +and to everyone who has remained here the result of this effort is the +appeal it makes to our imagination as one of the most gallant stories +in Polar History. That men should wander forth in the depth of a Polar +night to face the most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness +is something new; that they should have persisted in this effort in +spite of every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a +tale for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling. + +Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall +know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays its +eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information remains +meagre concerning its embryology, our party has shown the nature of +the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in winter. Hitherto we +have only imagined their severity; now we have proof, and a positive +light is thrown on the local climatology of our Strait. + + +Experience of Sledging Rations and Equipment + +For our future sledge work several points have been most satisfactorily +settled. The party went on a very simple food ration in different +and extreme proportions; they took pemmican, butter, biscuit and +tea only. After a short experience they found that Wilson, who had +arranged for the greatest quantity of fat, had too much of it, and +C.-G., who had gone for biscuit, had more than he could eat. A middle +course was struck which gave a general proportion agreeable to all, and +at the same time suited the total quantities of the various articles +carried. In this way we have arrived at a simple and suitable ration +for the inland plateau. The only change suggested is the addition +of cocoa for the evening meal. The party contented themselves with +hot water, deeming that tea might rob them of their slender chance +of sleep. + +On sleeping-bags little new can be said--the eiderdown bag may be a +useful addition for a short time on a spring journey, but they soon +get iced up. + +Bowers did not use an eiderdown bag throughout, and in some miraculous +manner he managed to turn his reindeer bag two or three times during +the journey. The following are the weights of sleeping-bags before +and after: + + + Starting Weight. Final Weight. + Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown 17 40 + Bowers, reindeer only 17 33 + C.-Garrard, reindeer and + eiderdown 18 45 + + +This gives some idea of the ice collected. + +The double tent has been reported an immense success. It weighed about +35 lbs. at starting and 60 lbs. on return: the ice mainly collected +on the inner tent. + +The crampons are much praised, except by Bowers, who has an eccentric +attachment to our older form. We have discovered a hundred details +of clothes, mits, and footwear: there seems no solution to the +difficulties which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all Wilson +can say, speaking broadly, is 'the gear is excellent, excellent.' One +continues to wonder as to the possibilities of fur clothing as made by +the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling that it may outclass our more +civilised garb. For us this can only be a matter of speculation, as it +would have been quite impossible to have obtained such articles. With +the exception of this radically different alternative, I feel sure +we are as near perfection as experience can direct. + +At any rate we can now hold that our system of clothing has come +through a severer test than any other, fur included. + +_Effect of Journey_.--Wilson lost 3 1/2 lbs.; Bowers lost 2 1/2 lbs.; +C.-Garrard lost 1 lb. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +The Return of the Sun + +_Thursday, August_ 3.--We have had such a long spell of fine clear +weather without especially low temperatures that one can scarcely +grumble at the change which we found on waking this morning, when +the canopy of stratus cloud spread over us and the wind came in +those fitful gusts which promise a gale. All day the wind force has +been slowly increasing, whilst the temperature has risen to -15°, +but there is no snow falling or drifting as yet. The steam cloud of +Erebus was streaming away to the N.W. this morning; now it is hidden. + +Our expectations have been falsified so often that we feel ourselves +wholly incapable as weather prophets--therefore one scarce dares +to predict a blizzard even in face of such disturbance as exists. A +paper handed to Simpson by David, [28] and purporting to contain a +description of approaching signs, together with the cause and effect +of our blizzards, proves equally hopeless. We have not obtained a +single scrap of evidence to verify its statements, and a great number +of our observations definitely contradict them. The plain fact is +that no two of our storms have been heralded by the same signs. + +The low Barrier temperatures experienced by the Crozier Party has +naturally led to speculation on the situation of Amundsen and his +Norwegians. If his thermometers continuously show temperatures below +-60°, the party will have a pretty bad winter and it is difficult to +see how he will keep his dogs alive. I should feel anxious if Campbell +was in that quarter. [29] + +_Saturday, August_ 5.--The sky has continued to wear a disturbed +appearance, but so far nothing has come of it. A good deal of light +snow has been falling to-day; a brisk northerly breeze is drifting +it along, giving a very strange yet beautiful effect in the north, +where the strong red twilight filters through the haze. + +The Crozier Party tell a good story of Bowers, who on their return +journey with their recovered tent fitted what he called a 'tent +downhaul' and secured it round his sleeping-bag and himself. If the +tent went again, he determined to go with it. + +Our lecture programme has been renewed. Last night Simpson gave a +capital lecture on general meteorology. He started on the general +question of insolation, giving various tables to show proportion of +sun's heat received at the polar and equatorial regions. Broadly, in +latitude 80° one would expect about 22 per cent, of the heat received +at a spot on the equator. + +He dealt with the temperature question by showing interesting tabular +comparisons between northern and southern temperatures at given +latitudes. So far as these tables go they show the South Polar summer +to be 15° colder than the North Polar, but the South Polar winter 3° +warmer than the North Polar, but of course this last figure would be +completely altered if the observer were to winter on the Barrier. I +fancy Amundsen will not concede those 3°!! + +From temperatures our lecturer turned to pressures and the upward +turn of the gradient in high southern latitudes, as shown by the +_Discovery_ Expedition. This bears of course on the theory which +places an anticyclone in the South Polar region. Lockyer's theories +came under discussion; a good many facts appear to support them. The +westerly winds of the Roaring Forties are generally understood to be a +succession of cyclones. Lockyer's hypothesis supposes that there are +some eight or ten cyclones continually revolving at a rate of about +10° of longitude a day, and he imagines them to extend from the 40th +parallel to beyond the 60th, thus giving the strong westerly winds +in the forties and easterly and southerly in 60° to 70°. Beyond 70° +there appears to be generally an irregular outpouring of cold air from +the polar area, with an easterly component significant of anticyclone +conditions. + +Simpson evolved a new blizzard theory on this. He supposes the surface +air intensely cooled over the continental and Barrier areas, and the +edge of this cold region lapped by warmer air from the southern limits +of Lockyer's cyclones. This would produce a condition of unstable +equilibrium, with great potentiality for movement. Since, as we have +found, volumes of cold air at different temperatures are very loath +to mix, the condition could not be relieved by any gradual process, +but continues until the stream is released by some minor cause, when, +the ball once started, a huge disturbance results. It seems to be +generally held that warm air is passing polewards from the equator +continuously at the high levels. It is this potentially warm air +which, mixed by the disturbance with the cold air of the interior, +gives to our winds so high a temperature. + +Such is this theory--like its predecessor it is put up for cockshies, +and doubtless by our balloon work or by some other observations it +will be upset or modified. Meanwhile it is well to keep one's mind +alive with such problems, which mark the road of advance. + +_Sunday, August_ 6.--Sunday with its usual routine. Hymn singing has +become a point on which we begin to take some pride to ourselves. With +our full attendance of singers we now get a grand volume of sound. + +The day started overcast. Chalky is an excellent adjective to describe +the appearance of our outlook when the light is much diffused and +shadows poor; the scene is dull and flat. + +In the afternoon the sky cleared, the moon over Erebus gave a straw +colour to the dissipating clouds. This evening the air is full of ice +crystals and a stratus forms again. This alternation of clouded and +clear skies has been the routine for some time now and is accompanied +by the absence of wind which is delightfully novel. + +The blood of the Crozier Party, tested by Atkinson, shows a very slight +increase of acidity--such was to be expected, and it is pleasing to +note that there is no sign of scurvy. If the preserved foods had +tended to promote the disease, the length of time and severity of +conditions would certainly have brought it out. I think we should be +safe on the long journey. + +I have had several little chats with Wilson on the happenings of +the journey. He says there is no doubt Cherry-Garrard felt the +conditions most severely, though he was not only without complaint, +but continuously anxious to help others. + +Apropos, we both conclude that it is the younger people that have the +worst time; Gran, our youngest member (23), is a very clear example, +and now Cherry-Garrard at 26. + +Wilson (39) says he never felt cold less than he does now; I suppose +that between 30 and 40 is the best all round age. Bowers is a wonder of +course. He is 29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember +that Peary was 52!! + +_Thursday, August_ 10.--There has been very little to record of late +and my pen has been busy on past records. + +The weather has been moderately good and as before wholly +incomprehensible. Wind has come from a clear sky and from a clouded +one; we had a small blow on Tuesday but it never reached gale force; +it came without warning, and every sign which we have regarded as a +warning has proved a bogey. The fact is, one must always be prepared +for wind and never expect it. + +The daylight advances in strides. Day has fitted an extra sash to +our window and the light admitted for the first time through triple +glass. With this device little ice collects inside. + +The ponies are very fit but inclined to be troublesome: the quiet +beasts develop tricks without rhyme or reason. Chinaman still kicks and +squeals at night. Anton's theory is that he does it to warm himself, +and perhaps there is something in it. When eating snow he habitually +takes too large a mouthful and swallows it; it is comic to watch him, +because when the snow chills his inside he shuffles about with all four +legs and wears a most fretful, aggrieved expression: but no sooner has +the snow melted than he seizes another mouthful. Other ponies take +small mouthfuls or melt a large one on their tongues--this act also +produces an amusing expression. Victor and Snippets are confirmed +wind suckers. They are at it all the time when the manger board is +in place, but it is taken down immediately after feeding time, and +then they can only seek vainly for something to catch hold of with +their teeth. 'Bones' has taken to kicking at night for no imaginable +reason. He hammers away at the back of his stall merrily; we have +covered the boards with several layers of sacking, so that the noise +is cured, if not the habit. The annoying part of these tricks is that +they hold the possibility of damage to the pony. I am glad to say +all the lice have disappeared; the final conquest was effected with +a very simple remedy--the infected ponies were washed with water in +which tobacco had been steeped. Oates had seen this decoction used +effectively with troop horses. The result is the greater relief, +since we had run out of all the chemicals which had been used for +the same purpose. + +I have now definitely told off the ponies for the Southern Journey, and +the new masters will take charge on September 1. They will continually +exercise the animals so as to get to know them as well as possible. The +arrangement has many obvious advantages. The following is the order: + + + Bowers Victor. Evans (P.O.) Snatcher. + Wilson Nobby. Crean Bones. + Atkinson Jehu. Keohane Jimmy Pigg. + Wright Chinaman. Oates Christopher. + Cherry-Garrard Michael. Myself & Oates Snippets. + + +The first balloon of the season was sent up yesterday by Bowers and +Simpson. It rose on a southerly wind, but remained in it for 100 feet +or less, then for 300 or 400 feet it went straight up, and after that +directly south over Razor Back Island. Everything seemed to go well, +the thread, on being held, tightened and then fell slack as it should +do. It was followed for two miles or more running in a straight line +for Razor Back, but within a few hundred yards of the Island it came +to an end. The searchers went round the Island to try and recover the +clue, but without result. Almost identically the same thing happened +after the last ascent made, and we are much puzzled to find the cause. + +The continued proximity of the south moving air currents above is +very interesting. + +The Crozier Party are not right yet, their feet are exceedingly sore, +and there are other indications of strain. I must almost except Bowers, +who, whatever his feelings, went off as gaily as usual on the search +for the balloon. + +Saw a very beautiful effect on my afternoon walk yesterday: the full +moon was shining brightly from a quarter exactly opposite to the fading +twilight and the icebergs were lit on one side by the yellow lunar +light and on the other by the paler white daylight. The first seemed +to be gilded, while the diffused light of day gave to the other a deep, +cold, greenish-blue colour--the contrast was strikingly beautiful. + +_Friday, August_ 11.--The long-expected blizzard came in the night; +it is still blowing hard with drift. + +Yesterday evening Oates gave his second lecture on 'Horse +management.' He was brief and a good deal to the point. 'Not born +but made' was his verdict on the good manager of animals. 'The horse +has no reasoning power at all, but an excellent memory'; sights and +sounds recall circumstances under which they were previously seen or +heard. It is no use shouting at a horse: ten to one he will associate +the noise with some form of trouble, and getting excited, will set out +to make it. It is ridiculous for the rider of a bucking horse to shout +'Whoa!'--'I know,' said the Soldier, 'because I have done it.' Also +it is to be remembered that loud talk to one horse may disturb other +horses. The great thing is to be firm and quiet. + +A horse's memory, explained the Soldier, warns it of events to come. He +gave instances of hunters and race-horses which go off their feed and +show great excitement in other ways before events for which they are +prepared; for this reason every effort should be made to keep the +animals quiet in camp. Rugs should be put on directly after a halt +and not removed till the last moment before a march. + +After a few hints on leading the lecturer talked of possible +improvements in our wintering arrangements. A loose box for each +animal would be an advantage, and a small amount of litter on which +he could lie down. Some of our ponies lie down, but rarely for +more than 10 minutes--the Soldier thinks they find the ground too +cold. He thinks it would be wise to clip animals before the winter +sets in. He is in doubt as to the advisability of grooming. He passed +to the improvements preparing for the coming journey--the nose bags, +picketing lines, and rugs. He proposes to bandage the legs of all +ponies. Finally he dealt with the difficult subjects of snow blindness +and soft surfaces: for the first he suggested dyeing the forelocks, +which have now grown quite long. Oates indulges a pleasant conceit in +finishing his discourses with a merry tale. Last night's tale evoked +shouts of laughter, but, alas! it is quite unprintable! Our discussion +hinged altogether on the final subjects of the lecture as concerning +snow blindness--the dyed forelocks seem inadequate, and the best +suggestion seems the addition of a sun bonnet rather than blinkers, +or, better still, a peak over the eyes attached to the headstall. I +doubt if this question will be difficult to settle, but the snow-shoe +problem is much more serious. This has been much in our minds of late, +and Petty Officer Evans has been making trial shoes for Snatcher on +vague ideas of our remembrance of the shoes worn for lawn mowing. + +Besides the problem of the form of the shoes, comes the question of +the means of attachment. All sorts of suggestions were made last night +as to both points, and the discussion cleared the air a good deal. I +think that with slight modification our present pony snow-shoes made +on the grating or racquet principle may prove best after all. The only +drawback is that they are made for very soft snow and unnecessarily +large for the Barrier; this would make them liable to be strained on +hard patches. The alternative seems to be to perfect the principle +of the lawn mowing shoe, which is little more than a stiff bag over +the hoof. + +Perhaps we shall come to both kinds: the first for the quiet animals +and the last for the more excitable. I am confident the matter is of +first importance. + +_Monday, August_ 14.--Since the comparatively short storm of Friday, in +which we had a temperature of -30° with a 50 m.p.h. wind, we have had +two delightfully calm days, and to-day there is every promise of the +completion of a third. On such days the light is quite good for three +to four hours at midday and has a cheering effect on man and beast. + +The ponies are so pleased that they seize the slightest opportunity +to part company with their leaders and gallop off with tail and heels +flung high. The dogs are equally festive and are getting more exercise +than could be given in the dark. The two Esquimaux dogs have been taken +in hand by Clissold, as I have noted before. He now takes them out with +a leader borrowed from Meares, usually little 'Noogis.' On Saturday +the sledge capsized at the tide crack; Clissold was left on the snow +whilst the team disappeared in the distance. Noogis returned later, +having eaten through his harness, and the others were eventually found +some two miles away, 'foul' of an ice hummock. Yesterday Clissold +took the same team to Cape Royds; they brought back a load of 100 +lbs. a dog in about two hours. It would have been a good performance +for the best dogs in the time, and considering that Meares pronounced +these two dogs useless, Clissold deserves a great deal of credit. + +Yesterday we had a really successful balloon ascent: the balloon ran +out four miles of thread before it was released, and the instrument +fell without a parachute. The searchers followed the clue about 2 1/2 +miles to the north, when it turned and came back parallel to itself, +and only about 30 yards distant from it. The instrument was found +undamaged and with the record properly scratched. + +Nelson has been out a good deal more of late. He has got a good little +run of serial temperatures with water samples, and however meagre +his results, they may be counted as exceedingly accurate; his methods +include the great scientific care which is now considered necessary +for this work, and one realises that he is one of the few people who +have been trained in it. Yesterday he got his first net haul from +the bottom, with the assistance of Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard. + +Atkinson has some personal interest in the work. He has been +getting remarkable results himself and has discovered a host of new +parasites in the seals; he has been trying to correlate these with +like discoveries in the fishes, in hope of working out complete life +histories in both primary and secondary hosts. + +But the joint hosts of the fishes may be the mollusca or other +creatures on which they feed, and hence the new fields for Atkinson +in Nelson's catches. There is a relative simplicity in the round of +life in its higher forms in these regions that would seem especially +hopeful for the parasitologist. + +My afternoon walk has become a pleasure; everything is beautiful in +this half light and the northern sky grows redder as the light wanes. + +_Tuesday, August_ 15.--The instrument recovered from the balloon shows +an ascent of 2 1/2 miles, and the temperature at that height only 5° +or 6° C. below that at the surface. If, as one must suppose, this +layer extends over the Barrier, it would there be at a considerably +higher temperature than the surface Simpson has imagined a very cold +surface layer on the Barrier. + +The acetylene has suddenly failed, and I find myself at this moment +writing by daylight for the first time. + +The first addition to our colony came last night, when 'Lassie' +produced six or seven puppies--we are keeping the family very quiet +and as warm as possible in the stable. + +It is very pleasant to note the excellent relations which our young +Russians have established with other folk; they both work very hard, +Anton having most to do. Demetri is the more intelligent and begins +to talk English fairly well. Both are on the best terms with their +mess-mates, and it was amusing last night to see little Anton jamming +a felt hat over P.O. Evans' head in high good humour. + +Wright lectured on radium last night. + +The transformation of the radio-active elements suggestive of +the transmutation of metals was perhaps the most interesting idea +suggested, but the discussion ranged mainly round the effect which +the discovery of radio-activity has had on physics and chemistry +in its bearing on the origin of matter, on geology as bearing on the +internal heat of the earth, and on medicine in its curative powers. The +geologists and doctors admitted little virtue to it, but of course +the physicists boomed their own wares, which enlivened the debate. + +_Thursday, August_ 17.--The weather has been extremely kind to us of +late; we haven't a single grumble against it. The temperature hovers +pretty constantly at about -35°, there is very little wind and the +sky is clear and bright. In such weather one sees well for more than +three hours before and after noon, the landscape unfolds itself, and +the sky colours are always delicate and beautiful. At noon to-day +there was bright sunlight on the tops of the Western Peaks and on +the summit and steam of Erebus--of late the vapour cloud of Erebus +has been exceptionally heavy and fantastic in form. + +The balloon has become a daily institution. Yesterday the instrument +was recovered in triumph, but to-day the threads carried the searchers +in amongst the icebergs and soared aloft over their crests--anon the +clue was recovered beyond, and led towards Tent Island, then towards +Inaccessible, then back to the bergs. Never was such an elusive +thread. Darkness descended with the searchers on a strong scent for +the Razor Backs: Bowers returned full of hope. + +The wretched Lassie has killed every one of her litter. She is mother +for the first time, and possibly that accounts for it. When the poor +little mites were alive she constantly left them, and when taken +back she either trod on them or lay on them, till not one was left +alive. It is extremely annoying. + +As the daylight comes, people are busier than ever. It does one good +to see so much work going on. + +_Friday, August_ 18.--Atkinson lectured on 'Scurvy' last night. He +spoke clearly and slowly, but the disease is anything but precise. He +gave a little summary of its history afloat and the remedies long in +use in the Navy. + +He described the symptoms with some detail. Mental depression, +debility, syncope, petechiae, livid patches, spongy gums, lesions, +swellings, and so on to things that are worse. He passed to some of the +theories held and remedies tried in accordance with them. Ralph came +nearest the truth in discovering decrease of chlorine and alkalinity +of urine. Sir Almroth Wright has hit the truth, he thinks, in finding +increased acidity of blood--acid intoxication--by methods only possible +in recent years. + +This acid condition is due to two salts, sodium hydrogen carbonate +and sodium hydrogen phosphate; these cause the symptoms observed +and infiltration of fat in organs, leading to feebleness of heart +action. The method of securing and testing serum of patient was +described (titration, a colorimetric method of measuring the percentage +of substances in solution), and the test by litmus paper of normal +or super-normal solution. In this test the ordinary healthy man shows +normal 30 to 50: the scurvy patient normal 90. + +Lactate of sodium increases alkalinity of blood, but only within +narrow limits, and is the only chemical remedy suggested. + +So far for diagnosis, but it does not bring us much closer to the +cause, preventives, or remedies. Practically we are much as we were +before, but the lecturer proceeded to deal with the practical side. + +In brief, he holds the first cause to be tainted food, but secondary +or contributory causes may be even more potent in developing the +disease. Damp, cold, over-exertion, bad air, bad light, in fact +any condition exceptional to normal healthy existence. Remedies +are merely to change these conditions for the better. Dietetically, +fresh vegetables are the best curatives--the lecturer was doubtful of +fresh meat, but admitted its possibility in polar climate; lime juice +only useful if regularly taken. He discussed lightly the relative +values of vegetable stuffs, doubtful of those containing abundance +of phosphates such as lentils. He touched theory again in continuing +the cause of acidity to bacterial action--and the possibility of +infection in epidemic form. Wilson is evidently slow to accept the +'acid intoxication' theory; his attitude is rather 'non proven.' His +remarks were extremely sound and practical as usual. He proved the +value of fresh meat in polar regions. + +Scurvy seems very far away from us this time, yet after our _Discovery_ +experience, one feels that no trouble can be too great or no precaution +too small to be adopted to keep it at bay. Therefore such an evening +as last was well spent. + +It is certain we shall not have the disease here, but one cannot +foresee equally certain avoidance in the southern journey to come. All +one can do is to take every possible precaution. + +Ran over to Tent Island this afternoon and climbed to the top--I have +not been there since 1903. Was struck with great amount of loose sand; +it seemed to get smaller in grain from S. to N. Fine view from top +of island: one specially notices the gap left by the breaking up of +the Glacier Tongue. + +The distance to the top of the island and back is between 7 and +8 statute miles, and the run in this weather is fine healthy +exercise. Standing on the island to-day with a glorious view of +mountains, islands, and glaciers, I thought how very different must be +the outlook of the Norwegians. A dreary white plain of Barrier behind +and an uninviting stretch of sea ice in front. With no landmarks, +nothing to guide if the light fails, it is probable that they venture +but a very short distance from their hut. + +The prospects of such a situation do not smile on us. + +The weather remains fine--this is the sixth day without wind. + +_Sunday, August_ 20.--The long-expected blizzard came yesterday--a +good honest blow, the drift vanishing long before the wind. This and +the rise of temperature (to 2°) has smoothed and polished all ice +or snow surfaces. A few days ago I could walk anywhere in my soft +finnesko with sealskin soles; to-day it needed great caution to +prevent tumbles. I think there has been a good deal of ablation. + +The sky is clear to-day, but the wind still strong though warm. I +went along the shore of the North Bay and climbed to the glacier over +one of the drifted faults in the ice face. It is steep and slippery, +but by this way one can arrive above the Ramp without touching rock +and thus avoid cutting soft footwear. + +The ice problems in our neighbourhood become more fascinating and +elusive as one re-examines them by the returning light; some will +be solved. + +_Monday, August_ 21.--Weights and measurements last evening. We have +remained surprisingly constant. There seems to have been improvement +in lung power and grip is shown by spirometer and dynamometer, but +weights have altered very little. I have gone up nearly 3 lbs. in +winter, but the increase has occurred during the last month, when I +have been taking more exercise. Certainly there is every reason to +be satisfied with the general state of health. + +The ponies are becoming a handful. Three of the four exercised to-day +so far have run away--Christopher and Snippets broke away from Oates +and Victor from Bowers. Nothing but high spirits, there is no vice in +these animals; but I fear we are going to have trouble with sledges +and snow-shoes. At present the Soldier dare not issue oats or the +animals would become quite unmanageable. Bran is running low; he +wishes he had more of it. + +_Tuesday, August_ 22.--I am renewing study of glacier problems; +the face of the ice cliff 300 yards east of the homestead is full of +enigmas. Yesterday evening Ponting gave us a lecture on his Indian +travels. He is very frank in acknowledging his debt to guide-books +for information, nevertheless he tells his story well and his slides +are wonderful. In personal reminiscence he is distinctly dramatic--he +thrilled us a good deal last night with a vivid description of a +sunrise in the sacred city of Benares. In the first dim light the +waiting, praying multitude of bathers, the wonderful ritual and its +incessant performance; then, as the sun approaches, the hush--the +effect of thousands of worshippers waiting in silence--a silence +to be felt. Finally, as the first rays appear, the swelling roar +of a single word from tens of thousands of throats: 'Ambah!' It was +artistic to follow this picture of life with the gruesome horrors of +the ghat. This impressionist style of lecturing is very attractive +and must essentially cover a great deal of ground. So we saw Jeypore, +Udaipore, Darjeeling, and a confusing number of places--temples, +monuments and tombs in profusion, with remarkable pictures of the +wonderful Taj Mahal--horses, elephants, alligators, wild boars, and +flamingoes--warriors, fakirs, and nautch girls--an impression here +and an impression there. + +It is worth remembering how attractive this style can be--in lecturing +one is inclined to give too much attention to connecting links which +join one episode to another. A lecture need not be a connected story; +perhaps it is better it should not be. + +It was my night on duty last night and I watched the oncoming of a +blizzard with exceptional beginnings. The sky became very gradually +overcast between 1 and 4 A.M. About 2.30 the temperature rose on a +steep grade from -20° to -3°; the barometer was falling, rapidly for +these regions. Soon after 4 the wind came with a rush, but without +snow or drift. For a time it was more gusty than has ever yet been +recorded even in this region. In one gust the wind rose from 4 to 68 +m.p.h. and fell again to 20 m.p.h. within a minute; another reached 80 +m.p.h., but not from such a low point of origin. The effect in the hut +was curious; for a space all would be quiet, then a shattering blast +would descend with a clatter and rattle past ventilator and chimneys, +so sudden, so threatening, that it was comforting to remember the solid +structure of our building. The suction of such a gust is so heavy that +even the heavy snow-covered roof of the stable, completely sheltered +on the lee side of the main building, is violently shaken--one could +well imagine the plight of our adventurers at C. Crozier when their +roof was destroyed. The snow which came at 6 lessened the gustiness +and brought the ordinary phenomena of a blizzard. It is blowing hard +to-day, with broken windy clouds and roving bodies of drift. A wild +day for the return of the sun. Had it been fine to-day we should have +seen the sun for the first time; yesterday it shone on the lower +foothills to the west, but to-day we see nothing but gilded drift +clouds. Yet it is grand to have daylight rushing at one. + +_Wednesday, August_ 23.--We toasted the sun in champagne last night, +coupling Victor Campbell's name as his birthday coincides. The return +of the sun could not be appreciated as we have not had a glimpse of +it, and the taste of the champagne went wholly unappreciated; it was +a very mild revel. Meanwhile the gale continues. Its full force broke +last night with an average of nearly 70 m.p.h. for some hours: the +temperature has been up to 10° and the snowfall heavy. At seven this +morning the air was thicker with whirling drift than it has ever been. + +It seems as though the violence of the storms which succeed our rare +spells of fine weather is in proportion to the duration of the spells. + +_Thursday, August_ 24.--Another night and day of furious wind +and drift, and still no sign of the end. The temperature has been +as high as 16°. Now and again the snow ceases and then the drift +rapidly diminishes, but such an interval is soon followed by fresh +clouds of snow. It is quite warm outside, one can go about with +head uncovered--which leads me to suppose that one does get hardened +to cold to some extent--for I suppose one would not wish to remain +uncovered in a storm in England if the temperature showed 16 degrees +of frost. This is the third day of confinement to the hut: it grows +tedious, but there is no help, as it is too thick to see more than +a few yards out of doors. + +_Friday, August_ 25.--The gale continued all night and it blows hard +this morning, but the sky is clear, the drift has ceased, and the few +whale-back clouds about Erebus carry a promise of improving conditions. + +Last night there was an intensely black cloud low on the northern +horizon--but for earlier experience of the winter one would have sworn +to it as a water sky; but I think the phenomenon is due to the shadow +of retreating drift clouds. This morning the sky is clear to the north, +so that the sea ice cannot have broken out in the Sound. + +During snowy gales it is almost necessary to dress oneself in wind +clothes if one ventures outside for the briefest periods--exposed +woollen or cloth materials become heavy with powdery crystals in a +minute or two, and when brought into the warmth of the hut are soon +wringing wet. Where there is no drift it is quicker and easier to +slip on an overcoat. + +It is not often I have a sentimental attachment for articles of +clothing, but I must confess an affection for my veteran uniform +overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that it +is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous +existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea spray, +tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of buttons, +from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and it supports +its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single lace ring +of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of a humble +sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from the fate of +the 'one-horse shay.' + +Taylor gave us his final physiographical lecture last night. It was +completely illustrated with slides made from our own negatives, +Ponting's Alpine work, and the choicest illustrations of certain +scientific books. The preparation of the slides had involved a good +deal of work for Ponting as well as for the lecturer. The lecture +dealt with ice erosion, and the pictures made it easy to follow +the comparison of our own mountain forms and glacial contours with +those that have received so much attention elsewhere. Noticeable +differences are the absence of moraine material on the lower surfaces +of our glaciers, their relatively insignificant movement, their +steep sides, &c.... It is difficult to convey the bearing of the +difference or similarity of various features common to the pictures +under comparison without their aid. It is sufficient to note that the +points to which the lecturer called attention were pretty obvious +and that the lecture was exceedingly instructive. The origin of +'cirques' or 'cwms,' of which we have remarkably fine examples, +is still a little mysterious--one notes also the requirement of +observation which might throw light on the erosion of previous ages. + +After Taylor's effort Ponting showed a number of very beautiful slides +of Alpine scenery--not a few are triumphs of the photographer's art. As +a wind-up Ponting took a flashlight photograph of our hut converted +into a lecture hall: a certain amount of faking will be required, +but I think this is very allowable under the circumstances. + +Oates tells me that one of the ponies, 'Snippets,' will eat +blubber! the possible uses of such an animal are remarkable! + +The gravel on the north side of the hut against which the stable is +built has been slowly but surely worn down, leaving gaps under the +boarding. Through these gaps and our floor we get an unpleasantly +strong stable effluvium, especially when the wind is strong. We are +trying to stuff the holes up, but have not had much success so far. + +_Saturday, August_ 26.--A dying wind and clear sky yesterday, and +almost calm to-day. The noon sun is cut off by the long low foot +slope of Erebus which runs to Cape Royds. Went up the Ramp at noon +yesterday and found no advantage--one should go over the floe to +get the earliest sight, and yesterday afternoon Evans caught a last +glimpse of the upper limb from that situation, whilst Simpson saw +the same from Wind Vane Hill. + +The ponies are very buckish and can scarcely be held in at exercise; +it seems certain that they feel the return of daylight. They were +out in morning and afternoon yesterday. Oates and Anton took out +Christopher and Snippets rather later. Both ponies broke away within +50 yards of the stable and galloped away over the floe. It was nearly +an hour before they could be rounded up. Such escapades are the result +of high spirits; there is no vice in the animals. + +We have had comparatively little aurora of late, but last night was +an exception; there was a good display at 3 A.M. + +P.M.--Just before lunch the sunshine could be seen gilding the floe, +and Ponting and I walked out to the bergs. The nearest one has been +overturned and is easily climbed. From the top we could see the +sun clear over the rugged outline of C. Barne. It was glorious to +stand bathed in brilliant sunshine once more. We felt very young, +sang and cheered--we were reminded of a bright frosty morning in +England--everything sparkled and the air had the same crisp feel. There +is little new to be said of the return of the sun in polar regions, +yet it is such a very real and important event that one cannot pass +it in silence. It changes the outlook on life of every individual, +foul weather is robbed of its terrors; if it is stormy to-day it will +be fine to-morrow or the next day, and each day's delay will mean a +brighter outlook when the sky is clear. + +Climbed the Ramp in the afternoon, the shouts and songs of men and +the neighing of horses borne to my ears as I clambered over its kopjes. + +We are now pretty well convinced that the Ramp is a moraine resting +on a platform of ice. + +The sun rested on the sunshine recorder for a few minutes, but +made no visible impression. We did not get our first record in the +_Discovery_ until September. It is surprising that so little heat +should be associated with such a flood of light. + +_Sunday, August_ 27.--Overcast sky and chill south-easterly +wind. Sunday routine, no one very active. Had a run to South Bay over +'Domain.' + +_Monday, August_ 28.--Ponting and Gran went round the bergs late +last night. On returning they saw a dog coming over the floe from the +north. The animal rushed towards and leapt about them with every sign +of intense joy. Then they realised that it was our long lost Julick. + +His mane was crusted with blood and he smelt strongly of seal +blubber--his stomach was full, but the sharpness of back-bone showed +that this condition had only been temporary, daylight he looks very +fit and strong, and he is evidently very pleased to be home again. + +We are absolutely at a loss to account for his adventures. It +is exactly a month since he was missed--what on earth can have +happened to him all this time? One would give a great deal to hear +his tale. Everything is against the theory that he was a wilful +absentee--his previous habits and his joy at getting back. If he wished +to get back, he cannot have been lost anywhere in the neighbourhood, +for, as Meares says, the barking of the station dogs can be heard +at least 7 or 8 miles away in calm weather, besides which there are +tracks everywhere and unmistakable landmarks to guide man or beast. I +cannot but think the animal has been cut off, but this can only have +happened by his being carried away on broken sea ice, and as far as +we know the open water has never been nearer than 10 or 12 miles at +the least. It is another enigma. + +On Saturday last a balloon was sent up. The thread was found broken +a mile away. Bowers and Simpson walked many miles in search of the +instrument, but could find no trace of it. The theory now propounded +is that if there is strong differential movement in air currents, +the thread is not strong enough to stand the strain as the balloon +passes from one current to another. It is amazing, and forces the +employment of a new system. It is now proposed to discard the thread +and attach the instrument to a flag and staff, which it is hoped will +plant itself in the snow on falling. + +The sun is shining into the hut windows--already sunbeams rest on +the opposite walls. + +I have mentioned the curious cones which are the conspicuous feature +of our Ramp scenery--they stand from 8 to 20 feet in height, some +irregular, but a number quite perfectly conical in outline. To-day +Taylor and Gran took pick and crowbar and started to dig into +one of the smaller ones. After removing a certain amount of loose +rubble they came on solid rock, kenyte, having two or three irregular +cracks traversing the exposed surface. It was only with great trouble +they removed one or two of the smallest fragments severed by these +cracks. There was no sign of ice. This gives a great 'leg up' to the +'debris' cone theory. + +Demetri and Clissold took two small teams of dogs to Cape Royds +to-day. They found some dog footprints near the hut, but think these +were not made by Julick. Demetri points far to the west as the scene +of that animal's adventures. Parties from C. Royds always bring a +number of illustrated papers which must have been brought down by +the _Nimrod_ on her last visit. The ostensible object is to provide +amusement for our Russian companions, but as a matter of fact everyone +finds them interesting. + +_Tuesday, August_ 29.--I find that the card of the sunshine recorder +showed an hour and a half's burn yesterday and was very faintly +marked on Saturday; already, therefore, the sun has given us warmth, +even if it can only be measured instrumentally. + +Last night Meares told us of his adventures in and about Lolo land, +a wild Central Asian country nominally tributary to Lhassa. He had no +pictures and very makeshift maps, yet he held us really entranced for +nearly two hours by the sheer interest of his adventures. The spirit +of the wanderer is in Meares' blood: he has no happiness but in the +wild places of the earth. I have never met so extreme a type. Even +now he is looking forward to getting away by himself to Hut Point, +tired already of our scant measure of civilisation. + +He has keen natural powers of observation for all practical facts and +a quite prodigious memory for such things, but a lack of scientific +training causes the acceptance of exaggerated appearances, which +so often present themselves to travellers when unfamiliar objects +are first seen. For instance, when the spoor of some unknown beast +is described as 6 inches across, one shrewdly guesses that a cold +scientific measurement would have reduced this figure by nearly a half; +so it is with mountains, cliffs, waterfalls, &c. With all deduction +on this account the lecture was extraordinarily interesting. Meares +lost his companion and leader, poor Brook, on the expedition which +he described to us. The party started up the Yangtse, travelling from +Shanghai to Hankow and thence to Ichang by steamer--then by house-boat +towed by coolies through wonderful gorges and one dangerous rapid to +Chunking and Chengtu. In those parts the travellers always took the +three principal rooms of the inn they patronised, the cost 150 cash, +something less than fourpence--oranges 20 a penny--the coolies with +100 lb. loads would cover 30 to 40 miles a day--salt is got in bores +sunk with bamboos to nearly a mile in depth; it takes two or three +generations to sink a bore. The lecturer described the Chinese frontier +town Quanchin, its people, its products, chiefly medicinal musk pods +from musk deer. Here also the wonderful ancient damming of the river, +and a temple to the constructor, who wrote, twenty centuries ago, +'dig out your ditches, but keep your banks low.' On we were taken +along mountain trails over high snow-filled passes and across rivers +on bamboo bridges to Wassoo, a timber centre from which great rafts of +lumber are shot down the river, over fearsome rapids, freighted with +Chinamen. 'They generally come through all right,' said the lecturer. + +Higher up the river (Min) live the peaceful Ching Ming people, +an ancient aboriginal stock, and beyond these the wild tribes, the +Lolo themselves. They made doubtful friends with a chief preparing +for war. Meares described a feast given to them in a barbaric hall +hung with skins and weapons, the men clad in buckskin dyed red, +and bristling with arms; barbaric dishes, barbaric music. Then the +hunt for new animals; the Chinese Tarkin, the parti-coloured bear, +blue mountain sheep, the golden-haired monkey, and talk of new fruits +and flowers and a host of little-known birds. + +More adventures among the wild tribes of the mountains; the white +lamas, the black lamas and phallic worship. Curious prehistoric caves +with ancient terra-cotta figures resembling only others found in +Japan and supplying a curious link. A feudal system running with well +oiled wheels, the happiest of communities. A separation (temporary) +from Brook, who wrote in his diary that tribes were very friendly and +seemed anxious to help him, and was killed on the day following--the +truth hard to gather--the recovery of his body, &c. + +As he left the country the Nepaulese ambassador arrives, returning +from Pekin with large escort and bound for Lhassa: the ambassador +half demented: and Meares, who speaks many languages, is begged by +ambassador and escort to accompany the party. He is obliged to miss +this chance of a lifetime. + +This is the meagrest outline of the tale which Meares adorned with a +hundred incidental facts--for instance, he told us of the Lolo trade +in green waxfly--the insect is propagated seasonally by thousands of +Chinese who subsist on the sale of the wax produced, but all insects +die between seasons. At the commencement of each season there is a +market to which the wild hill Lolos bring countless tiny bamboo boxes, +each containing a male and female insect, the breeding of which is +their share in the industry. + +We are all adventurers here, I suppose, and wild doings in wild +countries appeal to us as nothing else could do. It is good to know +that there remain wild corners of this dreadfully civilised world. + +We have had a bright fine day. This morning a balloon was sent up +without thread and with the flag device to which I have alluded. It +went slowly but steadily to the north and so over the Barne Glacier. It +was difficult to follow with glasses frequently clouding with the +breath, but we saw the instrument detached when the slow match burned +out. I'm afraid there is no doubt it fell on the glacier and there +is little hope of recovering it. We have now decided to use a thread +again, but to send the bobbin up with the balloon, so that it unwinds +from that end and there will be no friction where it touches the snow +or rock. + +This investigation of upper air conditions is proving a very difficult +matter, but we are not beaten yet. + +_Wednesday, August_ 30.--Fine bright day. The thread of the balloon +sent up to-day broke very short off through some fault in the cage +holding the bobbin. By good luck the instrument was found in the +North Bay, and held a record. + +This is the fifth record showing a constant inversion of temperature +for a few hundred feet and then a gradual fall, so that the temperature +of the surface is not reached again for 2000 or 3000 feet. The +establishment of this fact repays much of the trouble caused by +the ascents. + +_Thursday, August_ 31.--Went round about the Domain and Ramp with +Wilson. We are now pretty well decided as to certain matters that +puzzled us at first. The Ramp is undoubtedly a moraine supported on +the decaying end of the glacier. A great deal of the underlying ice is +exposed, but we had doubts as to whether this ice was not the result +of winter drifting and summer thawing. We have a little difference of +opinion as to whether this morainic material has been brought down in +surface layers or pushed up from the bottom ice layers, as in Alpine +glaciers. There is no doubt that the glacier is retreating with +comparative rapidity, and this leads us to account for the various +ice slabs about the hut as remains of the glacier, but a puzzling +fact confronts this proposition in the discovery of penguin feathers +in the lower strata of ice in both ice caves. The shifting of levels +in the morainic material would account for the drying up of some +lakes and the terrace formations in others, whilst curious trenches +in the ground are obviously due to cracks in the ice beneath. We are +now quite convinced that the queer cones on the Ramp are merely the +result of the weathering of big blocks of agglomerate. As weathering +results they appear unique. We have not yet a satisfactory explanation +of the broad roadway faults that traverse every small eminence in our +immediate region. They must originate from the unequal weathering of +lava flows, but it is difficult to imagine the process. The dip of the +lavas on our Cape corresponds with that of the lavas of Inaccessible +Island, and points to an eruptive centre to the south and not towards +Erebus. Here is food for reflection for the geologists. + +The wind blew quite hard from the N.N.W. on Wednesday night, fell +calm in the day, and came from the S.E. with snow as we started to +return from our walk; there was a full blizzard by the time we reached +the hut. + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +Preparations: The Spring Journey + +_Friday, September_ 1.--A very windy night, dropping to gusts in +morning, preceding beautifully calm, bright day. If September holds +as good as August we shall not have cause of complaint. Meares and +Demetri started for Hut Point just before noon. The dogs were in fine +form. Demetri's team came over the hummocky tide crack at full gallop, +depositing the driver on the snow. Luckily some of us were standing +on the floe. I made a dash at the bow of the sledge as it dashed +past and happily landed on top; Atkinson grasped at the same object, +but fell, and was dragged merrily over the ice. The weight reduced +the pace, and others soon came up and stopped the team. Demetri was +very crestfallen. He is extremely active and it's the first time he's +been unseated. + +There is no real reason for Meares' departure yet awhile, but he +chose to go and probably hopes to train the animals better when he +has them by themselves. As things are, this seems like throwing out +the advance guard for the summer campaign. + +I have been working very hard at sledging figures with Bowers' able +assistance. The scheme develops itself in the light of these figures, +and I feel that our organisation will not be found wanting, yet there +is an immense amount of detail, and every arrangement has to be more +than usually elastic to admit of extreme possibilities of the full +success or complete failure of the motors. + +I think our plan will carry us through without the motors (though +in that case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage +of such help as the motors may give. Our spring travelling is to +be limited order. E. Evans, Gran, and Forde will go out to find and +re-mark 'Corner Camp.' Meares will then carry out as much fodder as +possible with the dogs. Simpson, Bowers, and I are going to stretch +our legs across to the Western Mountains. There is no choice but to +keep the rest at home to exercise the ponies. It's not going to be a +light task to keep all these frisky little beasts in order, as their +food is increased. To-day the change in masters has taken place: +by the new arrangement + + + Wilson takes Nobby + Cherry-Garrard takes Michael + Wright takes Chinaman + Atkinson takes Jehu. + + +The new comers seem very pleased with their animals, though they are +by no means the pick of the bunch. + +_Sunday, September_ 3.--The weather still remains fine, the temperature +down in the minus thirties. All going well and everyone in splendid +spirits. Last night Bowers lectured on Polar clothing. He had worked +the subject up from our Polar library with critical and humorous +ability, and since his recent journey he must be considered as +entitled to an authoritative opinion of his own. The points in our +clothing problems are too technical and too frequently discussed +to need special notice at present, but as a result of a new study +of Arctic precedents it is satisfactory to find it becomes more and +more evident that our equipment is the best that has been devised for +the purpose, always excepting the possible alternative of skins for +spring journeys, an alternative we have no power to adopt. In spite +of this we are making minor improvements all the time. + +_Sunday, September_ 10.--A whole week since the last entry in my +diary. I feel very negligent of duty, but my whole time has been +occupied in making detailed plans for the Southern journey. These are +finished at last, I am glad to say; every figure has been checked +by Bowers, who has been an enormous help to me. If the motors are +successful, we shall have no difficulty in getting to the Glacier, +and if they fail, we shall still get there with any ordinary degree of +good fortune. To work three units of four men from that point onwards +requires no small provision, but with the proper provision it should +take a good deal to stop the attainment of our object. I have tried to +take every reasonable possibility of misfortune into consideration, +and to so organise the parties as to be prepared to meet them. I +fear to be too sanguine, yet taking everything into consideration I +feel that our chances ought to be good. The animals are in splendid +form. Day by day the ponies get fitter as their exercise increases, +and the stronger, harder food toughens their muscles. They are +very different animals from those which we took south last year, +and with another month of training I feel there is not one of them +but will make light of the loads we shall ask them to draw. But we +cannot spare any of the ten, and so there must always be anxiety of +the disablement of one or more before their work is done. + +E. R. Evans, Forde, and Gran left early on Saturday for Corner Camp. I +hope they will have no difficulty in finding it. Meares and Demetri +came back from Hut Point the same afternoon--the dogs are wonderfully +fit and strong, but Meares reports no seals up in the region, and as he +went to make seal pemmican, there was little object in his staying. I +leave him to come and go as he pleases, merely setting out the work +he has to do in the simplest form. I want him to take fourteen bags +of forage (130 lbs. each) to Corner Camp before the end of October +and to be ready to start for his supporting work soon after the pony +party--a light task for his healthy teams. Of hopeful signs for the +future none are more remarkable than the health and spirit of our +people. It would be impossible to imagine a more vigorous community, +and there does not seem to be a single weak spot in the twelve good +men and true who are chosen for the Southern advance. All are now +experienced sledge travellers, knit together with a bond of friendship +that has never been equalled under such circumstances. Thanks to +these people, and more especially to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, +there is not a single detail of our equipment which is not arranged +with the utmost care and in accordance with the tests of experience. + +It is good to have arrived at a point where one can run over facts +and figures again and again without detecting a flaw or foreseeing +a difficulty. + +I do not count on the motors--that is a strong point in our case--but +should they work well our earlier task of reaching the Glacier will +be made quite easy. Apart from such help I am anxious that these +machines should enjoy some measure of success and justify the time, +money, and thought which have been given to their construction. I +am still very confident of the possibility of motor traction, whilst +realising that reliance cannot be placed on it in its present untried +evolutionary state--it is satisfactory to add that my own view is the +most cautious one held in our party. Day is quite convinced he will go +a long way and is prepared to accept much heavier weights than I have +given him. Lashly's opinion is perhaps more doubtful, but on the whole +hopeful. Clissold is to make the fourth man of the motor party. I have +already mentioned his mechanical capabilities. He has had a great deal +of experience with motors, and Day is delighted to have his assistance. + +We had two lectures last week--the first from Debenham dealing with +General Geology and having special reference to the structures of +our region. It cleared up a good many points in my mind concerning +the gneissic base rocks, the Beacon sand-stone, and the dolerite +intrusions. I think we shall be in a position to make fairly good +field observations when we reach the southern land. + +The scientific people have taken keen interest in making their +lectures interesting, and the custom has grown of illustrating +them with lantern slides made from our own photographs, from books, +or from drawings of the lecturer. The custom adds to the interest +of the subject, but robs the reporter of notes. The second weekly +lecture was given by Ponting. His store of pictures seems unending +and has been an immense source of entertainment to us during the +winter. His lectures appeal to all and are fully attended. This time +we had pictures of the Great Wall and other stupendous monuments of +North China. Ponting always manages to work in detail concerning the +manners and customs of the peoples in the countries of his travels; +on Friday he told us of Chinese farms and industries, of hawking and +other sports, most curious of all, of the pretty amusement of flying +pigeons with aeolian whistling pipes attached to their tail feathers. + +Ponting would have been a great asset to our party if only on account +of his lectures, but his value as pictorial recorder of events +becomes daily more apparent. No expedition has ever been illustrated +so extensively, and the only difficulty will be to select from the +countless subjects that have been recorded by his camera--and yet not +a single subject is treated with haste; the first picture is rarely +counted good enough, and in some cases five or six plates are exposed +before our very critical artist is satisfied. + +This way of going to work would perhaps be more striking if it were not +common to all our workers here; a very demon of unrest seems to stir +them to effort and there is now not a single man who is not striving +his utmost to get good results in his own particular department. + +It is a really satisfactory state of affairs all round. If the +Southern journey comes off, nothing, not even priority at the Pole, +can prevent the Expedition ranking as one of the most important that +ever entered the polar regions. + +On Friday Cherry-Garrard produced the second volume of the S.P.T.--on +the whole an improvement on the first. Poor Cherry perspired over +the editorial, and it bears the signs of labour--the letterpress +otherwise is in the lighter strain: Taylor again the most important +contributor, but now at rather too great a length; Nelson has supplied +a very humorous trifle; the illustrations are quite delightful, the +highwater mark of Wilson's ability. The humour is local, of course, +but I've come to the conclusion that there can be no other form of +popular journal. + +The weather has not been good of late, but not sufficiently bad to +interfere with exercise, &c. + +_Thursday, September_ 14.--Another interregnum. I have been +exceedingly busy finishing up the Southern plans, getting instruction +in photographing, and preparing for our jaunt to the west. I held +forth on the 'Southern Plans' yesterday; everyone was enthusiastic, +and the feeling is general that our arrangements are calculated to +make the best of our resources. Although people have given a good +deal of thought to various branches of the subject, there was not a +suggestion offered for improvement. The scheme seems to have earned +full confidence: it remains to play the game out. + +The last lectures of the season have been given. On Monday Nelson +gave us an interesting little resume of biological questions, tracing +the evolutionary development of forms from the simplest single-cell +animals. + +To-night Wright tackled 'The Constitution of Matter' with the latest +ideas from the Cavendish Laboratory: it was a tough subject, yet one +carries away ideas of the trend of the work of the great physicists, +of the ends they achieve and the means they employ. Wright is inclined +to explain matter as velocity; Simpson claims to be with J.J. Thomson +in stressing the fact that gravity is not explained. + +These lectures have been a real amusement and one would be sorry +enough that they should end, were it not for so good a reason. + +I am determined to make some better show of our photographic work +on the Southern trip than has yet been accomplished--with Ponting +as a teacher it should be easy. He is prepared to take any pains +to ensure good results, not only with his own work but with that of +others--showing indeed what a very good chap he is. + +To-day I have been trying a colour screen--it is an extraordinary +addition to one's powers. + +To-morrow Bowers, Simpson, Petty Officer Evans, and I are off to +the west. I want to have another look at the Ferrar Glacier, to +measure the stakes put out by Wright last year, to bring my sledging +impressions up to date (one loses details of technique very easily), +and finally to see what we can do with our cameras. I haven't decided +how long we shall stay away or precisely where we shall go; such +vague arrangements have an attractive side. + +We have had a fine week, but the temperature remains low in the +twenties, and to-day has dropped to -35°. I shouldn't wonder if we +get a cold snap. + +_Sunday, October_ 1.--Returned on Thursday from a remarkably +pleasant and instructive little spring journey, after an absence +of thirteen days from September 15. We covered 152 geographical +miles by sledging (175 statute miles) in 10 marching days. It took +us 2 1/2 days to reach Butter Point (28 1/2 miles geog.), carrying a +part of the Western Party stores which brought our load to 180 lbs. a +man. Everything very comfortable; double tent great asset. The 16th: +a most glorious day till 4 P.M., then cold southerly wind. We captured +many frost-bites. Surface only fairly good; a good many heaps of loose +snow which brought sledge up standing. There seems a good deal more +snow this side of the Strait; query, less wind. + +Bowers insists on doing all camp work; he is a positive wonder. I +never met such a sledge traveller. + +The sastrugi all across the strait have been across, the main S. by +E. and the other E.S.E., but these are a great study here; the hard +snow is striated with long wavy lines crossed with lighter wavy +lines. It gives a sort of herringbone effect. + +After depositing this extra load we proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier; +curious low ice foot on left, no tide crack, sea ice very thinly +covered with snow. We are getting delightfully fit. Bowers treasure +all round, Evans much the same. Simpson learning fast. Find the camp +life suits me well except the turning out at night! three times last +night. We were trying nose nips and face guards, marching head to +wind all day. + +We reached Cathedral Rocks on the 19th. Here we found the stakes placed +by Wright across the glacier, and spent the remainder of the day and +the whole of the 20th in plotting their position accurately. (Very +cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled +with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone +who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went +every few moments.)We saw that there had been movement and roughly +measured it as about 30 feet. (The old Ferrar Glacier is more lively +than we thought.) After plotting the figures it turns out that the +movement varies from 24 to 32 feet at different stakes--this is 7 1/2 +months. This is an extremely important observation, the first made on +the movement of the coastal glaciers; it is more than I expected to +find, but small enough to show that the idea of comparative stagnation +was correct. Bowers and I exposed a number of plates and films in +the glacier which have turned out very well, auguring well for the +management of the camera on the Southern journey. + +On the 21st we came down the glacier and camped at the northern +end of the foot. (There appeared to be a storm in the Strait; +cumulus cloud over Erebus and the whalebacks. Very stormy look +over Lister occasionally and drift from peaks; but all smiling in +our Happy Valley. Evidently this is a very favoured spot.) From +thence we jogged up the coast on the following days, dipping into +New Harbour and climbing the moraine, taking angles and collecting +rock specimens. At Cape Bernacchi we found a quantity of pure quartz +_in situ_, and in it veins of copper ore. I got a specimen with two +or three large lumps of copper included. This is the first find of +minerals suggestive of the possibility of working. + +The next day we sighted a long, low ice wall, and took it at first +for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the land. As we +approached we saw a dark mark on it. Suddenly it dawned on us that +the tongue was detached from the land, and we turned towards it half +recognising familiar features. As we got close we saw similarity to +our old Erebus Glacier Tongue, and finally caught sight of a flag +on it, and suddenly realised that it might be the piece broken off +our old Erebus Glacier Tongue. Sure enough it was; we camped near +the outer end, and climbing on to it soon found the depot of fodder +left by Campbell and the line of stakes planted to guide our ponies +in the autumn. So here firmly anchored was the huge piece broken +from the Glacier Tongue in March, a huge tract about 2 miles long, +which has turned through half a circle, so that the old western end +is now towards the east. Considering the many cracks in the ice mass +it is most astonishing that it should have remained intact throughout +its sea voyage. + +At one time it was suggested that the hut should be placed on this +Tongue. What an adventurous voyage the occupants would have had! The +Tongue which was 5 miles south of C. Evans is now 40 miles W.N.W. of +it. + +From the Glacier Tongue we still pushed north. We reached Dunlop +Island on the 24th just before the fog descended on us, and got a +view along the stretch of coast to the north which turns at this point. + +Dunlop Island has undoubtedly been under the sea. We found regular +terrace beaches with rounded waterworn stones all over it; its height +is 65 feet. After visiting the island it was easy for us to trace the +same terrace formation on the coast; in one place we found waterworn +stones over 100 feet above sea-level. Nearly all these stones are +erratic and, unlike ordinary beach pebbles, the under sides which +lie buried have remained angular. + +Unlike the region of the Ferrar Glacier and New Harbour, the coast +to the north of C. Bernacchi runs on in a succession of rounded bays +fringed with low ice walls. At the headlands and in irregular spots +the gneissic base rock and portions of moraines lie exposed, offering +a succession of interesting spots for a visit in search of geological +specimens. Behind this fringe there is a long undulating plateau of +snow rounding down to the coast; behind this again are a succession +of mountain ranges with deep-cut valleys between. As far as we went, +these valleys seem to radiate from the region of the summit reached +at the head of the Ferrar Glacier. + +As one approaches the coast, the 'tablecloth' of snow in the foreground +cuts off more and more of the inland peaks, and even at a distance +it is impossible to get a good view of the inland valleys. To explore +these over the ice cap is one of the objects of the Western Party. + +So far, I never imagined a spring journey could be so pleasant. + +On the afternoon of the 24th we turned back, and covering nearly +eleven miles, camped inside the Glacier Tongue. After noon on the +25th we made a direct course for C. Evans, and in the evening camped +well out in the Sound. Bowers got angles from our lunch camp and I +took a photographic panorama, which is a good deal over exposed. + +We only got 2 1/2 miles on the 26th when a heavy blizzard descended +on us. We went on against it, the first time I have ever attempted +to march into a blizzard; it was quite possible, but progress very +slow owing to wind resistance. Decided to camp after we had done +two miles. Quite a job getting up the tent, but we managed to do so, +and get everything inside clear of snow with the help of much sweeping. + +With care and extra fuel we have managed to get through the snowy part +of the blizzard with less accumulation of snow than I ever remember, +and so everywhere all round experience is helping us. It continued +to blow hard throughout the 27th, and the 28th proved the most +unpleasant day of the trip. We started facing a very keen, frostbiting +wind. Although this slowly increased in force, we pushed doggedly +on, halting now and again to bring our frozen features round. It +was 2 o'clock before we could find a decent site for a lunch camp +under a pressure ridge. The fatigue of the prolonged march told on +Simpson, whose whole face was frostbitten at one time--it is still +much blistered. It came on to drift as we sat in our tent, and again +we were weather-bound. At 3 the drift ceased, and we marched on, +wind as bad as ever; then I saw an ominous yellow fuzzy appearance +on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another snowstorm +approached. Foolishly hoping it would pass us by I kept on until +Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted out. Then we rushed for a +camp site, but the blizzard was on us. In the driving snow we found +it impossible to set up the inner tent, and were obliged to unbend +it. It was a long job getting the outer tent set, but thanks to Evans +and Bowers it was done at last. We had to risk frostbitten fingers and +hang on to the tent with all our energy: got it secured inch by inch, +and not such a bad speed all things considered. We had some cocoa and +waited. At 9 P.M. the snow drift again took off, and we were now so +snowed up, we decided to push on in spite of the wind. + +We arrived in at 1.15 A.M., pretty well done. The wind never let +up for an instant; the temperature remained about -16°, and the 21 +statute miles which we marched in the day must be remembered amongst +the most strenuous in my memory. + +Except for the last few days, we enjoyed a degree of comfort which I +had not imagined impossible on a spring journey. The temperature was +not particularly high, at the mouth of the Ferrar it was -40°, and it +varied between -15° and -40° throughout. Of course this is much higher +than it would be on the Barrier, but it does not in itself promise much +comfort. The amelioration of such conditions we owe to experience. We +used one-third more than the summer allowance of fuel. This, with our +double tent, allowed a cosy hour after breakfast and supper in which +we could dry our socks, &c., and put them on in comfort. We shifted +our footgear immediately after the camp was pitched, and by this +means kept our feet glowingly warm throughout the night. Nearly all +the time we carried our sleeping-bags open on the sledges. Although +the sun does not appear to have much effect, I believe this device +is of great benefit even in the coldest weather--certainly by this +means our bags were kept much freer of moisture than they would have +been had they been rolled up in the daytime. The inner tent gets a +good deal of ice on it, and I don't see any easy way to prevent this. + +The journey enables me to advise the Geological Party on their best +route to Granite Harbour: this is along the shore, where for the main +part the protection of a chain of grounded bergs has preserved the +ice from all pressure. Outside these, and occasionally reaching to +the headlands, there is a good deal of pressed up ice of this season, +together with the latest of the old broken pack. Travelling through +this is difficult, as we found on our return journey. Beyond this +belt we passed through irregular patches where the ice, freezing at +later intervals in the season, has been much screwed. The whole shows +the general tendency of the ice to pack along the coast. + +The objects of our little journey were satisfactorily accomplished, +but the greatest source of pleasure to me is to realise that I have +such men as Bowers and P.O. Evans for the Southern journey. I do +not think that harder men or better sledge travellers ever took the +trail. Bowers is a little wonder. I realised all that he must have +done for the C. Crozier Party in their far severer experience. + +In spite of the late hour of our return everyone was soon afoot, and +I learned the news at once. E.R. Evans, Gran, and Forde had returned +from the Corner Camp journey the day after we left. They were away six +nights, four spent on the Barrier under very severe conditions--the +minimum for one night registered -73°. + +I am glad to find that Corner Camp showed up well; in fact, in more +than one place remains of last year's pony walls were seen. This +removes all anxiety as to the chance of finding the One Ton Camp. + +On this journey Forde got his hand badly frostbitten. I am annoyed +at this, as it argues want of care; moreover there is a good chance +that the tip of one of the fingers will be lost, and if this happens +or if the hand is slow in recovery, Forde cannot take part in the +Western Party. I have no one to replace him. + +E.R. Evans looks remarkably well, as also Gran. + +The ponies look very well and all are reported to be very buckish. + +_Wednesday, October_ 3.--We have had a very bad weather spell. Friday, +the day after we returned, was gloriously fine--it might have been +a December day, and an inexperienced visitor might have wondered why +on earth we had not started to the South, Saturday supplied a reason; +the wind blew cold and cheerless; on Sunday it grew worse, with very +thick snow, which continued to fall and drift throughout the whole +of Monday. The hut is more drifted up than it has ever been, huge +piles of snow behind every heap of boxes, &c., all our paths a foot +higher; yet in spite of this the rocks are rather freer of snow. This +is due to melting, which is now quite considerable. Wilson tells me +the first signs of thaw were seen on the 17th. + +Yesterday the weather gradually improved, and to-day has been fine and +warm again. One fine day in eight is the record immediately previous +to this morning. + +E.R. Evans, Debenham, and Gran set off to the Turk's Head on Friday +morning, Evans to take angles and Debenham to geologise; they have been +in their tent pretty well all the time since, but have managed to get +through some work. Gran returned last night for more provisions and set +off again this morning, Taylor going with him for the day. Debenham has +just returned for food. He is immensely pleased at having discovered a +huge slicken-sided fault in the lavas of the Turk's Head. This appears +to be an unusual occurrence in volcanic rocks, and argues that they +are of considerable age. He has taken a heap of photographs and is +greatly pleased with all his geological observations. He is building +up much evidence to show volcanic disturbance independent of Erebus +and perhaps prior to its first upheaval. + +Meares has been at Hut Point for more than a week; seals seem to be +plentiful there now. Demetri was back with letters on Friday and left +on Sunday. He is an excellent boy, full of intelligence. + +Ponting has been doing some wonderfully fine cinematograph work. My +incursion into photography has brought me in close touch with him +and I realise what a very good fellow he is; no pains are too great +for him to take to help and instruct others, whilst his enthusiasm +for his own work is unlimited. + +His results are wonderfully good, and if he is able to carry out the +whole of his programme, we shall have a cinematograph and photographic +record which will be absolutely new in expeditionary work. + +A very serious bit of news to-day. Atkinson says that Jehu is still too +weak to pull a load. The pony was bad on the ship and almost died after +swimming ashore from the ship--he was one of the ponies returned by +Campbell. He has been improving the whole of the winter and Oates has +been surprised at the apparent recovery; he looks well and feeds well, +though a very weedily built animal compared with the others. I had +not expected him to last long, but it will be a bad blow if he fails +at the start. I'm afraid there is much pony trouble in store for us. + +Oates is having great trouble with Christopher, who didn't at all +appreciate being harnessed on Sunday, and again to-day he broke away +and galloped off over the floe. + +On such occasions Oates trudges manfully after him, rounds him up to +within a few hundred yards of the stable and approaches cautiously; +the animal looks at him for a minute or two and canters off over the +floe again. When Christopher and indeed both of them have had enough +of the game, the pony calmly stops at the stable door. If not too +late he is then put into the sledge, but this can only be done by +tying up one of his forelegs; when harnessed and after he has hopped +along on three legs for a few paces, he is again allowed to use the +fourth. He is going to be a trial, but he is a good strong pony and +should do yeoman service. + +Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. He is an ingenious person +and has been turning up new rollers out of a baulk of oak supplied by +Meares, and with Simpson's small motor as a lathe. The motors _may_ +save the situation. I have been busy drawing up instructions and +making arrangements for the ship, shore station, and sledge parties +in the coming season. There is still much work to be done and much, +far too much, writing before me. + +Time simply flies and the sun steadily climbs the heavens. Breakfast, +lunch, and supper are now all enjoyed by sunlight, whilst the night +is no longer dark. + + +Notes at End of Volume + +'When they after their headstrong manner, conclude that it is +their duty to rush on their journey all weathers; ... '--'Pilgrim's +Progress.' + + + 'Has any grasped the low grey mist which stands + Ghostlike at eve above the sheeted lands.' + +A bad attack of integrity!! + + + 'Who is man and what his place, + Anxious asks the heart perplext, + In the recklessness of space, + Worlds with worlds thus intermixt, + What has he, this atom creature, + In the infinitude of nature?' + + F.T. PALGRAVE. + +It is a good lesson--though it may be a hard one--for a man who +had dreamed of a special (literary) fame and of making for himself +a rank among the world's dignitaries by such means, to slip aside +out of the narrow circle in which his claims are recognised, and to +find how utterly devoid of significance beyond that circle is all he +achieves and all he aims at. + +He might fail from want of skill or strength, but deep in his sombre +soul he vowed that it should never be from want of heart. + +'Every durable bond between human beings is founded in or heightened +by some element of competition.'--R.L. STEVENSON. + +'All natural talk is a festival of ostentation.'--R.L. STEVENSON. + +'No human being ever spoke of scenery for two minutes together, +which makes me suspect we have too much of it in literature. The +weather is regarded as the very nadir and scoff of conversational +topics.'--R.L. STEVENSON. + + + +CHAPTER XV + +The Last Weeks at Cape Evans + +_Friday, October_ 6.--With the rise of temperature there has been +a slight thaw in the hut; the drips come down the walls and one has +found my diary, as its pages show. The drips are already decreasing, +and if they represent the whole accumulation of winter moisture it +is extraordinarily little, and speaks highly for the design of the +hut. There cannot be very much more or the stains would be more +significant. + +Yesterday I had a good look at Jehu and became convinced that he +is useless; he is much too weak to pull a load, and three weeks +can make no difference. It is necessary to face the facts and I've +decided to leave him behind--we must do with nine ponies. Chinaman is +rather a doubtful quantity and James Pigg is not a tower of strength, +but the other seven are in fine form and must bear the brunt of the +work somehow. + +If we suffer more loss we shall depend on the motor, and +then! ... well, one must face the bad as well as the good. + +It is some comfort to know that six of the animals at least are in +splendid condition--Victor, Snippets, Christopher, Nobby, Bones are +as fit as ponies could well be and are naturally strong, well-shaped +beasts, whilst little Michael, though not so shapely, is as strong +as he will ever be. + +To-day Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard, and Crean have gone to Hut +Point with their ponies, Oates getting off with Christopher after +some difficulty. At 5 o'clock the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly +rang (the line was laid by Meares some time ago, but hitherto there +has been no communication). In a minute or two we heard a voice, and +behold! communication was established. I had quite a talk with Meares +and afterwards with Oates. Not a very wonderful fact, perhaps, but it +seems wonderful in this primitive land to be talking to one's fellow +beings 15 miles away. Oates told me that the ponies had arrived in +fine order, Christopher a little done, but carrying the heaviest load. + +If we can keep the telephone going it will be a great boon, especially +to Meares later in the season. + +The weather is extraordinarily unsettled; the last two days have been +fairly fine, but every now and again we get a burst of wind with drift, +and to-night it is overcast and very gloomy in appearance. + +The photography craze is in full swing. Ponting's mastery is ever +more impressive, and his pupils improve day by day; nearly all of +us have produced good negatives. Debenham and Wright are the most +promising, but Taylor, Bowers and I are also getting the hang of the +tricky exposures. + +_Saturday, October_ 7.--As though to contradict the suggestion +of incompetence, friend 'Jehu' pulled with a will this morning--he +covered 3 1/2 miles without a stop, the surface being much worse than +it was two days ago. He was not at all distressed when he stopped. If +he goes on like this he comes into practical politics again, and +I am arranging to give 10-feet sledges to him and Chinaman instead +of 12-feet. Probably they will not do much, but if they go on as at +present we shall get something out of them. + +Long and cheerful conversations with Hut Point and of course an +opportunity for the exchange of witticisms. We are told it was blowing +and drifting at Hut Point last night, whereas here it was calm and +snowing; the wind only reached us this afternoon. + +_Sunday, October_ 8.--A very beautiful day. Everyone out and about +after Service, all ponies going well. Went to Pressure Ridge with +Ponting and took a number of photographs. + +So far good, but the afternoon has brought much worry. About five +a telephone message from Nelson's igloo reported that Clissold had +fallen from a berg and hurt his back. Bowers organised a sledge +party in three minutes, and fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and +able to join it. I posted out over the land and found Ponting much +distressed and Clissold practically insensible. At this moment the +Hut Point ponies were approaching and I ran over to intercept one +in case of necessity. But the man# party was on the spot first, and +after putting the patient in a sleeping-bag, quickly brought him home +to the hut. It appears that Clissold was acting as Ponting's 'model' +and that the two had been climbing about the berg to get pictures. As +far as I can make out Ponting did his best to keep Clissold in safety +by lending him his crampons and ice axe, but the latter seems to have +missed his footing after one of his 'poses'; he slid over a rounded +surface of ice for some 12 feet, then dropped 6 feet on to a sharp +angle in the wall of the berg. + +He must have struck his back and head; the latter is contused and he +is certainly suffering from slight concussion. He complained of his +back before he grew unconscious and groaned a good deal when moved in +the hut. He came to about an hour after getting to the hut, and was +evidently in a good deal of pain; neither Atkinson nor Wilson thinks +there is anything very serious, but he has not yet been properly +examined and has had a fearful shock at the least. I still feel very +anxious. To-night Atkinson has injected morphia and will watch by +his patient. + +Troubles rarely come singly, and it occurred to me after Clissold had +been brought in that Taylor, who had been bicycling to the Turk's Head, +was overdue. We were relieved to hear that with glasses two figures +could be seen approaching in South Bay, but at supper Wright appeared +very hot and said that Taylor was exhausted in South Bay--he wanted +brandy and hot drink. I thought it best to despatch another relief +party, but before they were well round the point Taylor was seen +coming over the land. He was fearfully done. He must have pressed on +towards his objective long after his reason should have warned him +that it was time to turn; with this and a good deal of anxiety about +Clissold, the day terminates very unpleasantly. + +_Tuesday, October_ 10.--Still anxious about Clissold. He has passed +two fairly good nights but is barely able to move. He is unnaturally +irritable, but I am told this is a symptom of concussion. This morning +he asked for food, which is a good sign, and he was anxious to know +if his sledging gear was being got ready. In order not to disappoint +him he was assured that all would be ready, but there is scarce a +slender chance that he can fill his place in the programme. + +Meares came from Hut Point yesterday at the front end of a +blizzard. Half an hour after his arrival it was as thick as a hedge. He +reports another loss--Deek, one of the best pulling dogs, developed +the same symptoms which have so unaccountably robbed us before, spent +a night in pain, and died in the morning. Wilson thinks the cause is a +worm which gets into the blood and thence to the brain. It is trying, +but I am past despondency. Things must take their course. + +Forde's fingers improve, but not very rapidly; it is hard to have +two sick men after all the care which has been taken. + +The weather is very poor--I had hoped for better things this month. So +far we have had more days with wind and drift than without. It +interferes badly with the ponies' exercise. + +_Friday, October_ 13.--The past three days have seen a marked +improvement in both our invalids. Clissold's inside has been got into +working order after a good deal of difficulty; he improves rapidly +in spirits as well as towards immunity from pain. The fiction of +his preparation to join the motor sledge party is still kept up, but +Atkinson says there is not the smallest chance of his being ready. I +shall have to be satisfied if he practically recovers by the time we +leave with the ponies. + +Forde's hand took a turn for the better two days ago and he maintains +this progress. Atkinson thinks he will be ready to start in ten days' +time, but the hand must be carefully nursed till the weather becomes +really summery. + +The weather has continued bad till to-day, which has been perfectly +beautiful. A fine warm sun all day--so warm that one could sit about +outside in the afternoon, and photographic work was a real pleasure. + +The ponies have been behaving well, with exceptions. Victor is now +quite easy to manage, thanks to Bowers' patience. Chinaman goes along +very steadily and is not going to be the crock we expected. He has +a slow pace which may be troublesome, but when the weather is fine +that won't matter if he can get along steadily. + +The most troublesome animal is Christopher. He is only a source of +amusement as long as there is no accident, but I am always a little +anxious that he will kick or bite someone. The curious thing is that +he is quiet enough to handle for walking or riding exercise or in the +stable, but as soon as a sledge comes into the programme he is seized +with a very demon of viciousness, and bites and kicks with every intent +to do injury. It seems to be getting harder rather than easier to get +him into the traces; the last two turns, he has had to be thrown, +as he is unmanageable even on three legs. Oates, Bowers, and Anton +gather round the beast and lash up one foreleg, then with his head +held on both sides Oates gathers back the traces; quick as lightning +the little beast flashes round with heels flying aloft. This goes on +till some degree of exhaustion gives the men a better chance. But, +as I have mentioned, during the last two days the period has been so +prolonged that Oates has had to hasten matters by tying a short line +to the other foreleg and throwing the beast when he lashes out. Even +when on his knees he continues to struggle, and one of those nimble +hind legs may fly out at any time. Once in the sledge and started on +three legs all is well and the fourth leg can be released. At least, +all has been well until to-day, when quite a comedy was enacted. He +was going along quietly with Oates when a dog frightened him: he +flung up his head, twitched the rope out of Oates' hands and dashed +away. It was not a question of blind fright, as immediately after +gaining freedom he set about most systematically to get rid of his +load. At first he gave sudden twists, and in this manner succeeded +in dislodging two bales of hay; then he caught sight of other sledges +and dashed for them. They could scarcely get out of his way in time; +the fell intention was evident all through, to dash his load against +some other pony and sledge and so free himself of it. He ran for Bowers +two or three times with this design, then made for Keohane, never going +off far and dashing inward with teeth bared and heels flying all over +the place. By this time people were gathering round, and first one and +then another succeeded in clambering on to the sledge as it flew by, +till Oates, Bowers, Nelson, and Atkinson were all sitting on it. He +tried to rid himself of this human burden as he had of the hay bales, +and succeeded in dislodging Atkinson with violence, but the remainder +dug their heels into the snow and finally the little brute was tired +out. Even then he tried to savage anyone approaching his leading line, +and it was some time before Oates could get hold of it. Such is the +tale of Christopher. I am exceedingly glad there are not other ponies +like him. These capers promise trouble, but I think a little soft +snow on the Barrier may effectually cure them. + +E.R. Evans and Gran return to-night. We received notice of their +departure from Hut Point through the telephone, which also informed +us that Meares had departed for his first trip to Corner Camp. Evans +says he carried eight bags of forage and that the dogs went away at +a great pace. + +In spite of the weather Evans has managed to complete his survey +to Hut Point. He has evidently been very careful with it and has +therefore done a very useful bit of work. + +_Sunday, October_ 15.--Both of our invalids progress +favourably. Clissold has had two good nights without the aid of drugs +and has recovered his good spirits; pains have departed from his back. + +The weather is very decidedly warmer and for the past three days +has been fine. The thermometer stands but a degree or two below zero +and the air feels delightfully mild. Everything of importance is now +ready for our start and the ponies improve daily. + +Clissold's work of cooking has fallen on Hooper and Lashly, and it +is satisfactory to find that the various dishes and bread bakings +maintain their excellence. It is splendid to have people who refuse +to recognise difficulties. + +_Tuesday, October_ 17.--Things not going very well; with ponies +all pretty well. Animals are improving in form rapidly, even Jehu, +though I have ceased to count on that animal. To-night the motors +were to be taken on to the floe. The drifts make the road very +uneven, and the first and best motor overrode its chain; the chain +was replaced and the machine proceeded, but just short of the floe +was thrust to a steep inclination by a ridge, and the chain again +overrode the sprockets; this time by ill fortune Day slipped at the +critical moment and without intention jammed the throttle full on. The +engine brought up, but there was an ominous trickle of oil under the +back axle, and investigation showed that the axle casing (aluminium) +had split. The casing has been stripped and brought into the hut; +we may be able to do something to it, but time presses. It all goes +to show that we want more experience and workshops. + +I am secretly convinced that we shall not get much help from the +motors, yet nothing has ever happened to them that was unavoidable. A +little more care and foresight would make them splendid allies. The +trouble is that if they fail, no one will ever believe this. + +Meares got back from Corner Camp at 8 A.M. Sunday morning--he got +through on the telephone to report in the afternoon. He must have +made the pace, which is promising for the dogs. Sixty geographical +miles in two days and a night is good going--about as good as can be. + +I have had to tell Clissold that he cannot go out with the Motor Party, +to his great disappointment. He improves very steadily, however, and +I trust will be fit before we leave with the ponies. Hooper replaces +him with the motors. I am kept very busy writing and preparing details. + +We have had two days of northerly wind, a very unusual occurrence; +yesterday it was blowing S.E., force 8, temp. -16°, whilst here +the wind was north, force 4, temp. -6°. This continued for some +hours--a curious meteorological combination. We are pretty certain +of a southerly blizzard to follow, I should think. + +_Wednesday, October_ 18.--The southerly blizzard has burst on us. The +air is thick with snow. + +A close investigation of the motor axle case shows that repair is +possible. It looks as though a good strong job could be made of +it. Yesterday Taylor and Debenham went to Cape Royds with the object +of staying a night or two. + +_Sunday, October_ 22.--The motor axle case was completed by Thursday +morning, and, as far as one can see, Day made a very excellent job +of it. Since that the Motor Party has been steadily preparing for +its departure. To-day everything is ready. The loads are ranged on +the sea ice, the motors are having a trial run, and, all remaining +well with the weather, the party will get away to-morrow. + +Meares and Demetri came down on Thursday through the last of the +blizzard. At one time they were running without sight of the leading +dogs--they did not see Tent Island at all, but burst into sunshine +and comparative calm a mile from the station. Another of the best of +the dogs, 'Czigane,' was smitten with the unaccountable sickness; +he was given laxative medicine and appears to be a little better, +but we are still anxious. If he really has the disease, whatever it +may be, the rally is probably only temporary and the end will be swift. + +The teams left on Friday afternoon, Czigane included; to-day Meares +telephones that he is setting out for his second journey to Corner +Camp without him. On the whole the weather continues wretchedly bad; +the ponies could not be exercised either on Thursday or Friday; they +were very fresh yesterday and to-day in consequence. When unexercised, +their allowance of oats has to be cut down. This is annoying, as +just at present they ought to be doing a moderate amount of work and +getting into condition on full rations. + +The temperature is up to zero about; this probably means about -20° +on the Barrier. I wonder how the motors will face the drop if and when +they encounter it. Day and Lashly are both hopeful of the machines, +and they really ought to do something after all the trouble that has +been taken. + +The wretched state of the weather has prevented the transport of +emergency stores to Hut Point. These stores are for the returning +depots and to provision the _Discovery_ hut in case the _Terra Nova_ +does not arrive. The most important stores have been taken to the +Glacier Tongue by the ponies to-day. + +In the transport department, in spite of all the care I have taken to +make the details of my plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that +Bowers is the only man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the +work without mistake, with its arrays of figures. For the practical +consistent work of pony training Oates is especially capable, and +his heart is very much in the business. + +'_October,_ 1911.--I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If +he gets to the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel +fast with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account +I decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have done +had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked my plan, +besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one is out for. + +'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches +you. Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you can +rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish--only I'm afraid you +must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture much belittled. + +'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that follows. + +'Words must always fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he +really is the finest character I ever met--the closer one gets to him +the more there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable; +cannot you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter, +one knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal +and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and +things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humour and really +consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think he is +the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much. + +'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a positive +treasure, absolutely trustworthy and prodigiously energetic. He +is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is saying a good +deal--nothing seems to hurt his tough little body and certainly +no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hundred little +tales to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his unselfishness, +and his inextinguishable good humour. He surprises always, for his +intelligence is of quite a high order and his memory for details most +exceptional. You can imagine him, as he is, an indispensable assistant +to me in every detail concerning the management and organisation of +our sledging work and a delightful companion on the march. + +'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very thorough and +absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he has taken to sledging +like a duck to water, and although he hasn't had such severe testing, +I believe he would stand it pretty nearly as well. Nothing ever seems +to worry him, and I can't imagine he ever complained of anything in +his life. + +'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others, +though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round +they are a perfectly excellent lot.' + +The Soldier is very popular with all--a delightfully humorous cheery +old pessimist--striving with the ponies night and day and bringing +woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut. + +X.... has a positive passion for helping others--it is extraordinary +what pains he will take to do a kind thing unobtrusively. + +'One sees the need of having one's heart in one's work. Results can +only be got down here by a man desperately eager to get them. + +'Y.... works hard at his own work, taking extraordinary pains with it, +but with an astonishing lack of initiative he makes not the smallest +effort to grasp the work of others; it is a sort of character which +plants itself in a corner and will stop there. + +'The men are equally fine. Edgar Evans has proved a useful member +of our party; he looks after our sledges and sledge equipment with +a care of management and a fertility of resource which is truly +astonishing--on 'trek' he is just as sound and hard as ever and has +an inexhaustible store of anecdote. + +'Crean is perfectly happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere, the +harder the work, the better. Evans and Crean are great friends. Lashly +is his old self in every respect, hard working to the limit, quiet, +abstemious, and determined. You see altogether I have a good set of +people with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve something. + +'The study of individual character is a pleasant pastime in such +a mixed community of thoroughly nice people, and the study of +relationships and interactions is fascinating--men of the most +diverse upbringings and experience are really pals with one another, +and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion between +acquaintances are just those which are most freely used for jests. For +instance the Soldier is never tired of girding at Australia, its +people and institutions, and the Australians retaliate by attacking +the hide-bound prejudices of the British army. I have never seen a +temper lost in these discussions. So as I sit here I am very satisfied +with these things. I think that it would have been difficult to +better the organisation of the party--every man has his work and is +especially adapted for it; there is no gap and no overlap--it is all +that I desired, and the same might be said of the men selected to do +the work.' + +It promised to be very fine to-day, but the wind has already sprung +up and clouds are gathering again. There was a very beautiful curved +'banner' cloud south of Erebus this morning, perhaps a warning of +what is to come. + +Another accident! At one o'clock 'Snatcher,' one of the three ponies +laying the depot, arrived with single trace and dangling sledge in a +welter of sweat. Forty minutes after P.O. Evans, his driver, came in +almost as hot; simultaneously Wilson arrived with Nobby and a tale of +events not complete. He said that after the loads were removed Bowers +had been holding the three ponies, who appeared to be quiet; suddenly +one had tossed his head and all three had stampeded--Snatcher making +for home, Nobby for the Western Mountains, Victor, with Bowers still +hanging to him, in an indefinite direction. Running for two miles, +he eventually rounded up Nobby west of Tent Island and brought him +in._20_ Half an hour after Wilson's return, Bowers came in with Victor +distressed, bleeding at the nose, from which a considerable fragment +hung semi-detached. Bowers himself was covered with blood and supplied +the missing link--the cause of the incident. It appears that the +ponies were fairly quiet when Victor tossed his head and caught his +nostril in the trace hook on the hame of Snatcher's harness. The hook +tore skin and flesh and of course the animal got out of hand. Bowers +hung to him, but couldn't possibly keep hold of the other two as +well. Victor had bled a good deal, and the blood congealing on the +detached skin not only gave the wound a dismal appearance but greatly +increased its irritation. I don't know how Bowers managed to hang +on to the frightened animal; I don't believe anyone else would have +done so. On the way back the dangling weight on the poor creature's +nose would get on the swing and make him increasingly restive; it +was necessary to stop him repeatedly. Since his return the piece of +skin has been snipped off and proves the wound not so serious as +it looked. The animal is still trembling, but quite on his feed, +which is a good sign. I don't know why our Sundays should always +bring these excitements. + +Two lessons arise. Firstly, however quiet the animals appear, they +must not be left by their drivers; no chance must be taken; secondly, +the hooks on the hames of the harness must be altered in shape. + +I suppose such incidents as this were to be expected, one cannot have +ponies very fresh and vigorous and expect them to behave like lambs, +but I shall be glad when we are off and can know more definitely what +resources we can count on. + +Another trying incident has occurred. We have avoided football this +season especially to keep clear of accidents, but on Friday afternoon +a match was got up for the cinematograph and Debenham developed a +football knee (an old hurt, I have since learnt, or he should not +have played). Wilson thinks it will be a week before he is fit to +travel, so here we have the Western Party on our hands and wasting +the precious hours for that period. The only single compensation +is that it gives Forde's hand a better chance. If this waiting were +to continue it looks as though we should become a regular party of +'crocks.' Clissold was out of the hut for the first time to-day; +he is better but still suffers in his back. + + +The Start of the Motor Sledges + +_Tuesday, October_ 24.--Two fine days for a wonder. Yesterday the +motors seemed ready to start and we all went out on the floe to give +them a 'send off.' But the inevitable little defects cropped up, +and the machines only got as far as the Cape. A change made by Day +in the exhaust arrangements had neglected the heating jackets of the +carburetters; one float valve was bent and one clutch troublesome. Day +and Lashly spent the afternoon making good these defects in a +satisfactory manner. + +This morning the engines were set going again, and shortly after 10 +A.M. a fresh start was made. At first there were a good many stops, +but on the whole the engines seemed to be improving all the time. They +are not by any means working up to full power yet, and so the pace +is very slow. The weights seem to me a good deal heavier than we +bargained for. Day sets his motor going, climbs off the car, and walks +alongside with an occasional finger on the throttle. Lashly hasn't +yet quite got hold of the nice adjustments of his control levers, +but I hope will have done so after a day's practice. + +The only alarming incident was the slipping of the chains when Day +tried to start on some ice very thinly covered with snow. The starting +effort on such heavily laden sledges is very heavy, but I thought +the grip of the pattens and studs would have been good enough on any +surface. Looking at the place afterwards I found that the studs had +grooved the ice. + +Now as I write at 12.30 the machines are about a mile out in the +South Bay; both can be seen still under weigh, progressing steadily +if slowly. + +I find myself immensely eager that these tractors should succeed, +even though they may not be of great help to our southern advance. A +small measure of success will be enough to show their possibilities, +their ability to revolutionise Polar transport. Seeing the machines at +work to-day, and remembering that every defect so far shown is purely +mechanical, it is impossible not to be convinced of their value. But +the trifling mechanical defects and lack of experience show the risk +of cutting out trials. A season of experiment with a small workshop +at hand may be all that stands between success and failure. + +At any rate before we start we shall certainly know if the worst has +happened, or if some measure of success attends this unique effort. + +The ponies are in fine form. Victor, practically recovered from his +wound, has been rushing round with a sledge at a great rate. Even Jehu +has been buckish, kicking up his heels and gambolling awkwardly. The +invalids progress, Clissold a little alarmed about his back, but +without cause. + +Atkinson and Keohane have turned cooks, and do the job splendidly. + +This morning Meares announced his return from Corner Camp, so that all +stores are now out there. The run occupied the same time as the first, +when the routine was: first day 17 miles out; second day 13 out, and 13 +home; early third day run in. If only one could trust the dogs to keep +going like this it would be splendid. On the whole things look hopeful. + +1 P.M. motors reported off Razor Back Island, nearly 3 miles out--come, +come! + +_Thursday, October_ 26.--Couldn't see the motors yesterday till I +walked well out on the South Bay, when I discovered them with glasses +off the Glacier Tongue. There had been a strong wind in the forenoon, +but it seemed to me they ought to have got further--annoyingly +the telephone gave no news from Hut Point, evidently something was +wrong. After dinner Simpson and Gran started for Hut Point. + +This morning Simpson has just rung up. He says the motors are in +difficulties with the surface. The trouble is just that which I +noted as alarming on Monday--the chains slip on the very light snow +covering of hard ice. The engines are working well, and all goes well +when the machines get on to snow. + +I have organised a party of eight men including myself, and we are +just off to see what can be done to help. + +_Friday, October_ 27.--We were away by 10.30 yesterday. Walked to the +Glacier Tongue with gloomy forebodings; but for one gust a beautifully +bright inspiriting day. Seals were about and were frequently mistaken +for the motors. As we approached the Glacier Tongue, however, and +became more alive to such mistakes, we realised that the motors were +not in sight. At first I thought they must have sought better surface +on the other side of the Tongue, but this theory was soon demolished +and we were puzzled to know what had happened. At length walking +onward they were descried far away over the floe towards Hut Point; +soon after we saw good firm tracks over a snow surface, a pleasant +change from the double tracks and slipper places we had seen on the +bare ice. Our spirits went up at once, for it was not only evident +that the machines were going, but that they were negotiating a very +rough surface without difficulty. We marched on and overtook them +about 2 1/2 miles from Hut Point, passing Simpson and Gran returning +to Cape Evans. From the motors we learnt that things were going +pretty well. The engines were working well when once in tune, but +the cylinders, especially the two after ones, tended to get too hot, +whilst the fan or wind playing on the carburetter tended to make it +too cold. The trouble was to get a balance between the two, and this +is effected by starting up the engines, then stopping and covering +them and allowing the heat to spread by conductivity--of course, +a rather clumsy device. We camped ahead of the motors as they camped +for lunch. Directly after, Lashly brought his machine along on low +gear and without difficulty ran it on to Cape Armitage. Meanwhile +Day was having trouble with some bad surface; we had offered help and +been refused, and with Evans alone his difficulties grew, whilst the +wind sprang up and the snow started to drift. We had walked into the +hut and found Meares, but now we all came out again. I sent for Lashly +and Hooper and went back to help Day along. We had exasperating delays +and false starts for an hour and then suddenly the machine tuned up, +and off she went faster than one could walk, reaching Cape Armitage +without further hitch. It was blizzing by this time; the snow flew +by. We all went back to the hut; Meares and Demetri have been busy, +the hut is tidy and comfortable and a splendid brick fireplace had +just been built with a brand new stove-pipe leading from it directly +upward through the roof. This is really a most creditable bit of +work. Instead of the ramshackle temporary structures of last season +we have now a solid permanent fireplace which should last for many +a year. We spent a most comfortable night. + +This morning we were away over the floe about 9 A.M. I was anxious to +see how the motors started up and agreeably surprised to find that +neither driver took more than 20 to 30 minutes to get his machine +going, in spite of the difficulties of working a blow lamp in a keen +cold wind. + +Lashly got away very soon, made a short run of about 1/2 mile, +and then after a short halt to cool, a long non-stop for quite 3 +miles. The Barrier, five geographical miles from Cape Armitage, now +looked very close, but Lashly had overdone matters a bit, run out of +lubricant and got his engine too hot. The next run yielded a little +over a mile, and he was forced to stop within a few hundred yards of +the snow slope leading to the Barrier and wait for more lubricant, +as well as for the heat balance in his engine to be restored. + +This motor was going on second gear, and this gives a nice easy +walking speed, 2 1/2 to 3 miles an hour; it would be a splendid rate +of progress if it was not necessary to halt for cooling. This is the +old motor which was used in Norway; the other machine has modified +gears. [30] + +Meanwhile Day had had the usual balancing trouble and had dropped to +a speck, but towards the end of our second run it was evident he had +overcome these and was coming along at a fine speed. One soon saw that +the men beside the sledges were running. To make a long story short, +he stopped to hand over lubricating oil, started at a gallop again, +and dashed up the slope without a hitch on his top speed--the first +man to run a motor on the Great Barrier! There was great cheering +from all assembled, but the motor party was not wasting time on +jubilation. On dashed the motor, and it and the running men beside +it soon grew small in the distance. We went back to help Lashly, +who had restarted his engine. If not so dashingly, on account of his +slower speed, he also now took the slope without hitch and got a last +handshake as he clattered forward. His engine was not working so well +as the other, but I think mainly owing to the first overheating and +a want of adjustment resulting therefrom. + +Thus the motors left us, travelling on the best surface they have yet +encountered--hard windswept snow without sastrugi--a surface which +Meares reports to extend to Corner Camp at least. + +Providing there is no serious accident, the engine troubles will +gradually be got over; of that I feel pretty confident. Every day +will see improvement as it has done to date, every day the men will +get greater confidence with larger experience of the machines and the +conditions. But it is not easy to foretell the extent of the result of +older and earlier troubles with the rollers. The new rollers turned +up by Day are already splitting, and one of Lashly's chains is in a +bad way; it may be possible to make temporary repairs good enough to +cope with the improved surface, but it seems probable that Lashly's +car will not get very far. + +It is already evident that had the rollers been metal cased and the +runners metal covered, they would now be as good as new. I cannot +think why we had not the sense to have this done. As things are I +am satisfied we have the right men to deal with the difficulties of +the situation. + +The motor programme is not of vital importance to our plan and it +is possible the machines will do little to help us, but already they +have vindicated themselves. Even the seamen, who have remained very +sceptical of them, have been profoundly impressed. Evans said, 'Lord, +sir, I reckon if them things can go on like that you wouldn't want +nothing else'--but like everything else of a novel nature, it is the +actual sight of them at work that is impressive, and nothing short +of a hundred miles over the Barrier will carry conviction to outsiders. + +Parting with the motors, we made haste back to Hut Point and had +tea there. My feet had got very sore with the unaccustomed soft +foot-gear and crinkly surface, but we decided to get back to Cape +Evans. We came along in splendid weather, and after stopping for a +cup of tea at Razor Back, reached the hut at 9 P.M., averaging 3 1/2 +stat. miles an hour. During the day we walked 26 1/2 stat. miles, +not a bad day's work considering condition, but I'm afraid my feet +are going to suffer for it. + +_Saturday, October_ 28.--My feet sore and one 'tendon Achillis' +strained (synovitis); shall be right in a day or so, however. Last +night tremendous row in the stables. Christopher and Chinaman +discovered fighting. Gran nearly got kicked. These ponies are getting +above themselves with their high feeding. Oates says that Snippets +is still lame and has one leg a little 'heated'; not a pleasant item +of news. Debenham is progressing but not very fast; the Western Party +will leave after us, of that there is no doubt now. It is trying that +they should be wasting the season in this way. All things considered, +I shall be glad to get away and put our fortune to the test. + +_Monday, October_ 30.--We had another beautiful day yesterday, and +one began to feel that the summer really had come; but to-day, after a +fine morning, we have a return to blizzard conditions. It is blowing +a howling gale as I write. Yesterday Wilson, Crean, P.O. Evans, and +I donned our sledging kit and camped by the bergs for the benefit of +Ponting and his cinematograph; he got a series of films which should +be about the most interesting of all his collection. I imagine nothing +will take so well as these scenes of camp life. + +On our return we found Meares had returned; he and the dogs well. He +told us that (Lieut.) Evans had come into Hut Point on Saturday +to fetch a personal bag left behind there. Evans reported that +Lashly's motor had broken down near Safety Camp; they found the big +end smashed up in one cylinder and traced it to a faulty casting; +they luckily had spare parts, and Day and Lashly worked all night +on repairs in a temperature of -25°. By the morning repairs were +completed and they had a satisfactory trial run, dragging on loads +with both motors. Then Evans found out his loss and returned on ski, +whilst, as I gather, the motors proceeded; I don't quite know how, +but I suppose they ran one on at a time. + +On account of this accident and because some of our hardest worked +people were badly hit by the two days' absence helping the machines, +I have decided to start on Wednesday instead of to-morrow. If the +blizzard should blow out, Atkinson and Keohane will set off to-morrow +for Hut Point, so that we may see how far Jehu is to be counted on. + +_Tuesday, October_ 31.--The blizzard has blown itself out this morning, +and this afternoon it has cleared; the sun is shining and the wind +dropping. Meares and Ponting are just off to Hut Point. Atkinson +and Keohane will probably leave in an hour or so as arranged, and +if the weather holds, we shall all get off to-morrow. So here end +the entries in this diary with the first chapter of our History. The +future is in the lap of the gods; I can think of nothing left undone +to deserve success. + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +Southern Journey: The Barrier Stage + +_November_ 1.--Last night we heard that Jehu had reached Hut Point in +about 5 1/2 hours. This morning we got away in detachments--Michael, +Nobby, Chinaman were first to get away about 11 A.M. The little devil +Christopher was harnessed with the usual difficulty and started in +kicking mood, Oates holding on for all he was worth. + +Bones ambled off gently with Crean, and I led Snippets in his wake. Ten +minutes after Evans and Snatcher passed at the usual full speed. + +The wind blew very strong at the Razor Back and the sky was +threatening--the ponies hate the wind. A mile south of this island +Bowers and Victor passed me, leaving me where I best wished to be--at +the tail of the line. + +About this place I saw that one of the animals ahead had stopped and +was obstinately refusing to go forward again. I had a great fear it +was Chinaman, the unknown quantity, but to my relief found it was +my old friend 'Nobby' in obstinate mood. As he is very strong and +fit the matter was soon adjusted with a little persuasion from Anton +behind. Poor little Anton found it difficult to keep the pace with +short legs. + +Snatcher soon led the party and covered the distance in four +hours. Evans said he could see no difference at the end from the +start--the little animal simply romped in. Bones and Christopher +arrived almost equally fresh, in fact the latter had been bucking +and kicking the whole way. For the present there is no end to his +devilment, and the great consideration is how to safeguard Oates. Some +quiet ponies should always be near him, a difficult matter to arrange +with such varying rates of walking. A little later I came up to +a batch, Bowers, Wilson, Cherry, and Wright, and was happy to see +Chinaman going very strong. He is not fast, but very steady, and I +think should go a long way. + +Victor and Michael forged ahead again, and the remaining three of us +came in after taking a little under five hours to cover the distance. + +We were none too soon, as the weather had been steadily getting worse, +and soon after our arrival it was blowing a gale. + +_Thursday, November_ 2.--Hut Point. The march teaches a good deal +as to the paces of the ponies. It reminded me of a regatta or a +somewhat disorganised fleet with ships of very unequal speed. The +plan of further advance has now been evolved. We shall start in +three parties--the very slow ponies, the medium paced, and the +fliers. Snatcher starting last will probably overtake the leading +unit. All this requires a good deal of arranging. We have decided to +begin night marching, and shall get away after supper, I hope. The +weather is hourly improving, but at this season that does not count +for much. At present our ponies are very comfortably stabled. Michael, +Chinaman and James Pigg are actually in the hut. Chinaman kept us alive +last night by stamping on the floor. Meares and Demetri are here with +the dog team, and Ponting with a great photographic outfit. I fear +he won't get much chance to get results. + +_Friday, November_ 3.--Camp 1. A keen wind with some drift at Hut +Point, but we sailed away in detachments. Atkinson's party, Jehu, +Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg led off at eight. Just before ten Wilson, +Cherry-Garrard and I left. Our ponies marched steadily and well +together over the sea ice. The wind dropped a good deal, but the +temperature with it, so that the little remaining was very cutting. We +found Atkinson at Safety Camp. He had lunched and was just ready to +march out again; he reports Chinaman and Jehu tired. Ponting arrived +soon after we had camped with Demetri and a small dog team. The +cinematograph was up in time to catch the flying rearguard which came +along in fine form, Snatcher leading and being stopped every now and +again--a wonderful little beast. Christopher had given the usual +trouble when harnessed, but was evidently subdued by the Barrier +Surface. However, it was not thought advisable to halt him, and so +the party fled through in the wake of the advance guard. + +After lunch we packed up and marched on steadily as before. I don't +like these midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is +pleasant when, as to-day, the wind falls and the sun steadily increases +its heat. The two parties in front of us camped 5 miles beyond Safety +Camp, and we reached their camp some half or three-quarters of an hour +later. All the ponies are tethered in good order, but most of them are +tired--Chinaman and Jehu _very tired_. Nearly all are inclined to be +off feed, but this is very temporary, I think. We have built walls, +but there is no wind and the sun gets warmer every minute. + +_Mirage_.--Very marked waving effect to east. Small objects greatly +exaggerated and showing as dark vertical lines. + +1 P.M.--Feeding time. Woke the party, and Oates served out the +rations--all ponies feeding well. It is a sweltering day, the air +breathless, the glare intense--one loses sight of the fact that +the temperature is low (-22°)--one's mind seeks comparison in hot +sunlit streets and scorching pavements, yet six hours ago my thumb +was frostbitten. All the inconveniences of frozen footwear and damp +clothes and sleeping-bags have vanished entirely. + +A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that the motor passed +at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong--they have 4 to 5 days' lead and should +surely keep it. + +'Bones has eaten Christopher's goggles.' + +This announcement by Crean, meaning that Bones had demolished the +protecting fringe on Christopher's bridle. These fringes promise very +well--Christopher without his is blinking in the hot sun. + +_Saturday, November_ 4.--Camp 2. Led march--started in what I think +will now become the settled order. Atkinson went at 8, ours at 10, +Bowers, Oates and Co. at 11.15. Just after starting picked up cheerful +note and saw cheerful notices saying all well with motors, both +going excellently. Day wrote 'Hope to meet in 80° 30' (Lat.).' Poor +chap, within 2 miles he must have had to sing a different tale. It +appears they had a bad ground on the morning of the 29th. I suppose +the surface was bad and everything seemed to be going wrong. They +'dumped' a good deal of petrol and lubricant. Worse was to follow. Some +4 miles out we met a tin pathetically inscribed, 'Big end Day's motor +No. 2 cylinder broken.' Half a mile beyond, as I expected, we found +the motor, its tracking sledges and all. Notes from Evans and Day +told the tale. The only spare had been used for Lashly's machine, +and it would have taken a long time to strip Day's engine so that +it could run on three cylinders. They had decided to abandon it and +push on with the other alone. They had taken the six bags of forage +and some odds and ends, besides their petrol and lubricant. So the +dream of great help from the machines is at an end! The track of the +remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I shall +expect to see it every hour of the march. + +The ponies did pretty well--a cruel soft surface most of the time, +but light loads, of course. Jehu is better than I expected to find him, +Chinaman not so well. They are bad crocks both of them. + +It was pretty cold during the night, -7° when we camped, with a crisp +breeze blowing. The ponies don't like it, but now, as I write, the +sun is shining through a white haze, the wind has dropped, and the +picketing line is comfortable for the poor beasts. + +This, 1 P.M., is the feeding hour--the animals are not yet on feed, +but they are coming on. + +The wind vane left here in the spring shows a predominance of wind +from the S.W. quarter. Maximum scratching, about S.W. by W. + +_Sunday, November_ 5.--Camp 3. 'Corner Camp.' We came over the last +lap of the first journey in good order--ponies doing well in soft +surface, but, of course, lightly loaded. To-night will show what we +can do with the heavier weights. A very troubled note from Evans +(with motor) written on morning of 2nd, saying maximum speed was +about 7 miles per day. They have taken on nine bags of forage, but +there are three black dots to the south which we can only imagine are +the deserted motor with its loaded sledges. The men have gone on as +a supporting party, as directed. It is a disappointment. I had hoped +better of the machines once they got away on the Barrier Surface. + +The appetites of the ponies are very fanciful. They do not like +the oil cake, but for the moment seem to take to some fodder left +here. However, they are off that again to-day. It is a sad pity they +won't eat well now, because later on one can imagine how ravenous +they will become. Chinaman and Jehu will not go far I fear. + +_Monday, November_ 6.--Camp 4. We started in the usual order, +arranging so that full loads should be carried if the black dots +to the south prove to be the motor. On arrival at these we found +our fears confirmed. A note from Evans stated a recurrence of the +old trouble. The big end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, the machine +otherwise in good order. Evidently the engines are not fitted for +working in this climate, a fact that should be certainly capable of +correction. One thing is proved; the system of propulsion is altogether +satisfactory. The motor party has proceeded as a man-hauling party +as arranged. + +With their full loads the ponies did splendidly, even Jehu and Chinaman +with loads over 450 lbs. stepped out well and have finished as fit as +when they started. Atkinson and Wright both think that these animals +are improving. + +The better ponies made nothing of their loads, and my own Snippets +had over 700 lbs., sledge included. Of course, the surface is greatly +improved; it is that over which we came well last year. We are all +much cheered by this performance. It shows a hardening up of ponies +which have been well trained; even Oates is pleased! + +As we came to camp a blizzard threatened, and we built snow +walls. One hour after our arrival the wind was pretty strong, but +there was not much snow. This state of affairs has continued, but +the ponies seem very comfortable. Their new rugs cover them well and +the sheltering walls are as high as the animals, so that the wind is +practically unfelt behind them. The protection is a direct result of +our experience of last year, and it is good to feel that we reaped +some reward for that disastrous journey. I am writing late in the day +and the wind is still strong. I fear we shall not be able to go on +to-night. Christopher gave great trouble again last night--the four +men had great difficulty in getting him into his sledge; this is a +nuisance which I fear must be endured for some time to come. + +The temperature, -5°, is lower than I like in a blizzard. It feels +chilly in the tent, but the ponies don't seem to mind the wind much. + +The incidence of this blizzard had certain characters worthy of note:-- + +Before we started from Corner Camp there was a heavy collection of +cloud about Cape Crozier and Mount Terror, and a black line of stratus +low on the western slopes of Erebus. With us the sun was shining and +it was particularly warm and pleasant. Shortly after we started mist +formed about us, waxing and waning in density; a slight southerly +breeze sprang up, cumulo-stratus cloud formed overhead with a rather +windy appearance (radial E. and W.). + +At the first halt (5 miles S.) Atkinson called my attention to a +curious phenomenon. Across the face of the low sun the strata of +mist could be seen rising rapidly, lines of shadow appearing to be +travelling upwards against the light. Presumably this was sun-warmed +air. The accumulation of this gradually overspread the sky with a +layer of stratus, which, however, never seemed to be very dense; +the position of the sun could always be seen. Two or three hours +later the wind steadily increased in force, with the usual gusty +characteristic. A noticeable fact was that the sky was clear and +blue above the southern horizon, and the clouds seemed to be closing +down on this from time to time. At intervals since, it has lifted, +showing quite an expanse of clear sky. The general appearance is +that the disturbance is created by conditions about us, and is +rather spreading from north to south than coming up with the wind, +and this seems rather typical. On the other hand, this is not a bad +snow blizzard; although the wind holds, the land, obscured last night, +is now quite clear and the Bluff has no mantle. + +[Added in another hand, probably dictated: + +Before we felt any air moving, during our A.M. march and the greater +part of the previous march, there was dark cloud over Ross Sea off +the Barrier, which continued over the Eastern Barrier to the S.E. as +a heavy stratus, with here and there an appearance of wind. At the +same time, due south of us, dark lines of stratus were appearing, +miraged on the horizon, and while we were camping after our A.M. march, +these were obscured by banks of white fog (or drift?), and the wind +increasing the whole time. My general impression was that the storm +came up from the south, but swept round over the eastern part of the +Barrier before it became general and included the western part where +we were.] + +_Tuesday, November_ 7.--Camp 4. The blizzard has continued +throughout last night and up to this time of writing, late in +the afternoon. Starting mildly, with broken clouds, little snow, +and gleams of sunshine, it grew in intensity until this forenoon, +when there was heavy snowfall and the sky overspread with low nimbus +cloud. In the early afternoon the snow and wind took off, and the +wind is dropping now, but the sky looks very lowering and unsettled. + +Last night the sky was so broken that I made certain the end of the +blow had come. Towards morning the sky overhead and far to the north +was quite clear. More cloud obscured the sun to the south and low +heavy banks hung over Ross Island. All seemed hopeful, except that I +noted with misgiving that the mantle on the Bluff was beginning to +form. Two hours later the whole sky was overcast and the blizzard +had fully developed. + +This Tuesday evening it remains overcast, but one cannot see that +the clouds are travelling fast. The Bluff mantle is a wide low bank +of stratus not particularly windy in appearance; the wind is falling, +but the sky still looks lowering to the south and there is a general +appearance of unrest. The temperature has been -10° all day. + +The ponies, which had been so comparatively comfortable in the earlier +stages, were hit as usual when the snow began to fall. + +We have done everything possible to shelter and protect them, but +there seems no way of keeping them comfortable when the snow is thick +and driving fast. We men are snug and comfortable enough, but it is +very evil to lie here and know that the weather is steadily sapping +the strength of the beasts on which so much depends. It requires much +philosophy to be cheerful on such occasions. + +In the midst of the drift this forenoon the dog party came up and +camped about a quarter of a mile to leeward. Meares has played too much +for safety in catching us so soon, but it is satisfactory to find the +dogs will pull the loads and can be driven to face such a wind as we +have had. It shows that they ought to be able to help us a good deal. + +The tents and sledges are badly drifted up, and the drifts behind the +pony walls have been dug out several times. I shall be glad indeed to +be on the march again, and oh! for a little sun. The ponies are all +quite warm when covered by their rugs. Some of the fine drift snow +finds its way under the rugs, and especially under the broad belly +straps; this melts and makes the coat wet if allowed to remain. It +is not easy to understand at first why the blizzard should have such +a withering effect on the poor beasts. I think it is mainly due to +the exceeding fineness of the snow particles, which, like finely +divided powder, penetrate the hair of the coat and lodge in the +inner warmths. Here it melts, and as water carries off the animal +heat. Also, no doubt, it harasses the animals by the bombardment of +the fine flying particles on tender places such as nostrils, eyes, +and to lesser extent ears. In this way it continually bothers them, +preventing rest. Of all things the most important for horses is that +conditions should be placid whilst they stand tethered. + +_Wednesday, November_ 8.--Camp 5. Wind with overcast threatening sky +continued to a late hour last night. The question of starting was open +for a long time, and many were unfavourable. I decided we must go, +and soon after midnight the advance guard got away. To my surprise, +when the rugs were stripped from the 'crocks' they appeared quite +fresh and fit. Both Jehu and Chinaman had a skittish little run. When +their heads were loose Chinaman indulged in a playful buck. All three +started with their loads at a brisk pace. It was a great relief +to find that they had not suffered at all from the blizzard. They +went out six geographical miles, and our section going at a good +round pace found them encamped as usual. After they had gone, we +waited for the rearguard to come up and joined with them. For the +next 5 miles the bunch of seven kept together in fine style, and +with wind dropping, sun gaining in power, and ponies going well, +the march was a real pleasure. One gained confidence every moment +in the animals; they brought along their heavy loads without a hint +of tiredness. All take the patches of soft snow with an easy stride, +not bothering themselves at all. The majority halt now and again to +get a mouthful of snow, but little Christopher goes through with a +non-stop run. He gives as much trouble as ever at the start, showing +all sorts of ingenious tricks to escape his harness. Yesterday when +brought to his knees and held, he lay down, but this served no end, +for before he jumped to his feet and dashed off the traces had been +fixed and he was in for the 13 miles of steady work. Oates holds like +grim death to his bridle until the first freshness is worn off, and +this is no little time, for even after 10 miles he seized a slight +opportunity to kick up. Some four miles from this camp Evans loosed +Snatcher momentarily. The little beast was off at a canter at once and +on slippery snow; it was all Evans could do to hold to the bridle. As +it was he dashed across the line, somewhat to its danger. + +Six hundred yards from this camp there was a bale of forage. Bowers +stopped and loaded it on his sledge, bringing his weights to nearly +800 lbs. His pony Victor stepped out again as though nothing had been +added. Such incidents are very inspiriting. Of course, the surface +is very good; the animals rarely sink to the fetlock joint, and for +a good part of the time are borne up on hard snow patches without +sinking at all. In passing I mention that there are practically no +places where ponies sink to their hocks as described by Shackleton. On +the only occasion last year when our ponies sank to their hocks in +one soft patch, they were unable to get their loads on at all. The +feathering of the fetlock joint is borne up on the snow crust and its +upward bend is indicative of the depth of the hole made by the hoof; +one sees that an extra inch makes a tremendous difference. + +We are picking up last year's cairns with great ease, and all show +up very distinctly. This is extremely satisfactory for the homeward +march. What with pony walls, camp sites and cairns, our track should +be easily followed the whole way. Everyone is as fit as can be. It +was wonderfully warm as we camped this morning at 11 o'clock; the +wind has dropped completely and the sun shines gloriously. Men and +ponies revel in such weather. One devoutly hopes for a good spell of +it as we recede from the windy northern region. The dogs came up soon +after we had camped, travelling easily. + +_Thursday, November_ 9.--Camp 6. Sticking to programme, we are going a +little over the 10 miles (geo.) nightly. Atkinson started his party at +11 and went on for 7 miles to escape a cold little night breeze which +quickly dropped. He was some time at his lunch camp, so that starting +to join the rearguard we came in together the last 2 miles. The +experience showed that the slow advance guard ponies are forced out +of their place by joining with the others, whilst the fast rearguard +is reduced in speed. Obviously it is not an advantage to be together, +yet all the ponies are doing well. An amusing incident happened when +Wright left his pony to examine his sledgemeter. Chinaman evidently +didn't like being left behind and set off at a canter to rejoin the +main body. Wright's long legs barely carried him fast enough to stop +this fatal stampede, but the ridiculous sight was due to the fact +that old Jehu caught the infection and set off at a sprawling canter +in Chinaman's wake. As this is the pony we thought scarcely capable +of a single march at start, one is agreeably surprised to find him +still displaying such commendable spirit. Christopher is troublesome +as ever at the start; I fear that signs of tameness will only indicate +absence of strength. The dogs followed us so easily over the 10 miles +that Meares thought of going on again, but finally decided that the +present easy work is best. + +Things look hopeful. The weather is beautiful--temp. -12°, with +a bright sun. Some stratus cloud about Discovery and over White +Island. The sastrugi about here are very various in direction and the +surface a good deal ploughed up, showing that the Bluff influences +the wind direction even out as far as this camp. The surface is hard; +I take it about as good as we shall get. + +There is an annoying little southerly wind blowing now, and this +serves to show the beauty of our snow walls. The ponies are standing +under their lee in the bright sun as comfortable as can possibly be. + +_Friday, November_ 10.--Camp 7. A very horrid march. A strong head wind +during the first part--5 miles (geo.)--then a snowstorm. Wright leading +found steering so difficult after three miles (geo.) that the party +decided to camp. Luckily just before camping he rediscovered Evans' +track (motor party) so that, given decent weather, we shall be able +to follow this. The ponies did excellently as usual, but the surface +is good distinctly. The wind has dropped and the weather is clearing +now that we have camped. It is disappointing to miss even 1 1/2 miles. + +Christopher was started to-day by a ruse. He was harnessed behind his +wall and was in the sledge before he realised. Then he tried to bolt, +but Titus hung on. + +_Saturday, November_ 11.--Camp 8. It cleared somewhat just before the +start of our march, but the snow which had fallen in the day remained +soft and flocculent on the surface. Added to this we entered on an +area of soft crust between a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits +between these in places the snow lay in sandy heaps. A worse set of +conditions for the ponies could scarcely be imagined. Nevertheless they +came through pretty well, the strong ones excellently, but the crocks +had had enough at 9 1/2 miles. Such a surface makes one anxious in +spite of the rapidity with which changes take place. I expected these +marches to be a little difficult, but not near so bad as to-day. It +is snowing again as we camp, with a slight north-easterly breeze. It +is difficult to make out what is happening to the weather--it is all +part of the general warming up, but I wish the sky would clear. In +spite of the surface, the dogs ran up from the camp before last, +over 20 miles, in the night. They are working splendidly so far. + +_Sunday, November_ 12.--Camp 9. Our marches are uniformly horrid +just at present. The surface remains wretched, not quite so heavy +as yesterday, perhaps, but very near it at times. Five miles out the +advance party came straight and true on our last year's Bluff depot +marked with a flagstaff. Here following I found a note from Evans, +cheerful in tone, dated 7 A.M. 7th inst. He is, therefore, the best +part of five days ahead of us, which is good. Atkinson camped a mile +beyond this cairn and had a very gloomy account of Chinaman. Said +he couldn't last more than a mile or two. The weather was horrid, +overcast, gloomy, snowy. One's spirits became very low. However, +the crocks set off again, the rearguard came up, passed us in camp, +and then on the march about 3 miles on, so that they camped about +the same time. The Soldier thinks Chinaman will last for a good many +days yet, an extraordinary confession of hope for him. The rest of +the animals are as well as can be expected--Jehu rather better. These +weather appearances change every minute. When we camped there was a +chill northerly breeze, a black sky, and light falling snow. Now the +sky is clearing and the sun shining an hour later. The temperature +remains about -10° in the daytime. + +_Monday, November 13_.--Camp 10. Another horrid march in a terrible +light, surface very bad. Ponies came through all well, but they are +being tried hard by the surface conditions. We followed tracks most +of the way, neither party seeing the other except towards camping +time. The crocks did well, all repeatedly. Either the whole sky has +been clear, or the overhanging cloud has lifted from time to time to +show the lower rocks. Had we been dependent on land marks we should +have fared ill. Evidently a good system of cairns is the best possible +travelling arrangement on this great snow plain. Meares and Demetri +up with the dogs as usual very soon after we camped. + +This inpouring of warm moist air, which gives rise to this +heavy surface deposit at this season, is certainly an interesting +meteorological fact, accounting as it does for the very sudden change +in Barrier conditions from spring to summer. + +_Wednesday, November_ 15.--Camp 12. Found our One Ton Camp without +any difficulty [130 geographical miles from Cape Evans]. About 7 or +8 miles. After 5 1/2 miles to lunch camp, Chinaman was pretty tired, +but went on again in good form after the rest. All the other ponies +made nothing of the march, which, however, was over a distinctly better +surface. After a discussion we had decided to give the animals a day's +rest here, and then to push forward at the rate of 13 geographical +miles a day. Oates thinks the ponies will get through, but that they +have lost condition quicker than he expected. Considering his usually +pessimistic attitude this must be thought a hopeful view. Personally +I am much more hopeful. I think that a good many of the beasts are +actually in better form than when they started, and that there is no +need to be alarmed about the remainder, always excepting the weak +ones which we have always regarded with doubt. Well, we must wait +and see how things go. + +A note from Evans dated the 9th, stating his party has gone on to 80° +30', carrying four boxes of biscuit. He has done something over 30 +miles (geo.) in 2 1/2 days--exceedingly good going. I only hope he +has built lots of good cairns. + +It was a very beautiful day yesterday, bright sun, but as we marched, +towards midnight, the sky gradually became overcast; very beautiful +halo rings formed around the sun. Four separate rings were very +distinct. Wilson descried a fifth--the orange colour with blue +interspace formed very fine contrasts. We now clearly see the corona +ring on the snow surface. The spread of stratus cloud overhead was very +remarkable. The sky was blue all around the horizon, but overhead a +cumulo-stratus grew early; it seemed to be drifting to the south and +later to the east. The broken cumulus slowly changed to a uniform +stratus, which seems to be thinning as the sun gains power. There +is a very thin light fall of snow crystals, but the surface deposit +seems to be abating the evaporation for the moment, outpacing the +light snowfall. The crystals barely exist a moment when they light +on our equipment, so that everything on and about the sledges is +drying rapidly. When the sky was clear above the horizon we got a +good view of the distant land all around to the west; white patches +of mountains to the W.S.W. must be 120 miles distant. During the night +we saw Discovery and the Royal Society Range, the first view for many +days, but we have not seen Erebus for a week, and in that direction +the clouds seem ever to concentrate. It is very interesting to watch +the weather phenomena of the Barrier, but one prefers the sunshine +to days such as this, when everything is blankly white and a sense +of oppression is inevitable. + +The temperature fell to -15° last night, with a clear sky; it rose +to 0° directly the sky covered and is now just 16° to 20°. Most of +us are using goggles with glass of light green tint. We find this +colour very grateful to the eyes, and as a rule it is possible to +see everything through them even more clearly than with naked vision. + +The hard sastrugi are now all from the W.S.W. and our cairns are +drifted up by winds from that direction; mostly, though, there has +evidently been a range of snow-bearing winds round to south. This +observation holds from Corner Camp to this camp, showing that +apparently all along the coast the wind comes from the land. The +minimum thermometer left here shows -73°, rather less than expected; +it has been excellently exposed and evidently not at all drifted up +with snow at any time. I cannot find the oats I scattered here--rather +fear the drift has covered them, but other evidences show that the +snow deposit has been very small. + +_Thursday, November_ 16.--Camp 12. Resting. A stiff little southerly +breeze all day, dropping towards evening. The temperature -15°. Ponies +pretty comfortable in rugs and behind good walls. We have reorganised +the loads, taking on about 580 lbs. with the stronger ponies, 400 +odd with the others. + +_Friday, November_ 17.--Camp 13. Atkinson started about 8.30. We came +on about 11, the whole of the remainder. The lunch camp was 7 1/2 +miles. Atkinson left as we came in. He was an hour before us at the +final camp, 13 1/4 (geo.) miles. On the whole, and considering the +weights, the ponies did very well, but the surface was comparatively +good. Christopher showed signs of trouble at start, but was coaxed +into position for the traces to be hooked. There was some ice on his +runner and he had a very heavy drag, therefore a good deal done on +arrival; also his load seems heavier and deader than the others. It +is early days to wonder whether the little beasts will last; one can +only hope they will, but the weakness of breeding and age is showing +itself already. + +The crocks have done wonderfully, so there is really no saying how long +or well the fitter animals may go. We had a horribly cold wind on the +march. Temp. -18°, force 3. The sun was shining but seemed to make +little difference. It is still shining brightly, temp. 11°. Behind +the pony walls it is wonderfully warm and the animals look as snug +as possible. + +_Saturday, November_ 18.--Camp 14. The ponies are not pulling well. The +surface is, if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I should +think about the sort of thing we shall have to expect henceforward. I +had a panic that we were carrying too much food and this morning we +have discussed the matter and decided we can leave a sack. We have +done the usual 13 miles (geog.) with a few hundred yards to make the 15 +statute. The temperature was -21° when we camped last night, now it is +-3°. The crocks are going on, very wonderfully. Oates gives Chinaman +at least three days, and Wright says he may go for a week. This is +slightly inspiriting, but how much better would it have been to have +had ten really reliable beasts. It's touch and go whether we scrape +up to the Glacier; meanwhile we get along somehow. At any rate the +bright sunshine makes everything look more hopeful. + +_Sunday, November_ 19.--Camp 15. We have struck a real bad surface, +sledges pulling well over it, but ponies sinking very deep. The +result is to about finish Jehu. He was terribly done on getting in +to-night. He may go another march, but not more, I think. Considering +the surface the other ponies did well. The ponies occasionally sink +halfway to the hock, little Michael once or twice almost to the hock +itself. Luckily the weather now is glorious for resting the animals, +which are very placid and quiet in the brilliant sun. The sastrugi are +confused, the underlying hard patches appear as before to have been +formed by a W.S.W. wind, but there are some surface waves pointing +to a recent south-easterly wind. Have been taking some photographs, +Bowers also. + +_Monday, November_ 20.--Camp 16. The surface a little better. Sastrugi +becoming more and more definite from S.E. Struck a few hard patches +which made me hopeful of much better things, but these did not last +long. The crocks still go. Jehu seems even a little better than +yesterday, and will certainly go another march. Chinaman reported +bad the first half march, but bucked up the second. The dogs found +the surface heavy. To-morrow I propose to relieve them of a forage +bag. The sky was slightly overcast during the march, with radiating +cirro-stratus S.S.W.-N.N.E. Now very clear and bright again. Temp, +at night -14°, now 4°. A very slight southerly breeze, from which +the walls protect the animals well. I feel sure that the long day's +rest in the sun is very good for all of them. + +Our ponies marched very steadily last night. They seem to take the +soft crusts and difficult plodding surface more easily. The loss of +condition is not so rapid as noticed to One Ton Camp, except perhaps +in Victor, who is getting to look very gaunt. Nobby seems fitter and +stronger than when he started; he alone is ready to go all his feed +at any time and as much more as he can get. The rest feel fairly well, +but they are getting a very big strong ration. I am beginning to feel +more hopeful about them. Christopher kicked the bow of his sledge in +towards the end of the march. He must have a lot left in him though. + +_Tuesday, November_ 21.--Camp 17. Lat. 80° 35'. The surface decidedly +better and the ponies very steady on the march. None seem overtired, +and now it is impossible not to take a hopeful view of their prospect +of pulling through. (Temp. -14°, night.) The only circumstance to be +feared is a reversion to bad surfaces, and that ought not to happen on +this course. We marched to the usual lunch camp and saw a large cairn +ahead. Two miles beyond we came on the Motor Party in Lat. 80° 32'. We +learned that they had been waiting for six days. They all look very +fit, but declare themselves to be very hungry. This is interesting as +showing conclusively that a ration amply sufficient for the needs of +men leading ponies is quite insufficient for men doing hard pulling +work; it therefore fully justifies the provision which we have made +for the Summit work. Even on that I have little doubt we shall soon +get hungry. Day looks very thin, almost gaunt, but fit. The weather +is beautiful--long may it so continue. (Temp. +6°, 11 A.M.) + +It is decided to take on the Motor Party in advance for three days, +then Day and Hooper return. We hope Jehu will last three days; he will +then be finished in any case and fed to the dogs. It is amusing to +see Meares looking eagerly for the chance of a feed for his animals; +he has been expecting it daily. On the other hand, Atkinson and Oates +are eager to get the poor animal beyond the point at which Shackleton +killed his first beast. Reports on Chinaman are very favourable, +and it really looks as though the ponies are going to do what is +hoped of them. + +_Wednesday, November_ 22.--Camp 18. Everything much the same. The +ponies thinner but not much weaker. The crocks still going along. Jehu +is now called 'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.' Two +days more and they will be well past the spot at which Shackleton +killed his first animal. Nobby keeps his pre-eminence of condition and +has now the heaviest load by some 50 lbs.; most of the others are under +500 lbs. load, and I hope will be eased further yet. The dogs are in +good form still, and came up well with their loads this morning (night +temp. -14°). It looks as though we ought to get through to the Glacier +without great difficulty. The weather is glorious and the ponies +can make the most of their rest during the warmest hours, but they +certainly lose in one way by marching at night. The surface is much +easier for the sledges when the sun is warm, and for about three hours +before and after midnight the friction noticeably increases. It is +just a question whether this extra weight on the loads is compensated +by the resting temperature. We are quite steady on the march now, and +though not fast yet get through with few stops. The animals seem to be +getting accustomed to the steady, heavy plod and take the deep places +less fussily. There is rather an increased condition of false crust, +that is, a crust which appears firm till the whole weight of the animal +is put upon it, when it suddenly gives some three or four inches. This +is very trying for the poor beasts. There are also more patches in +which the men sink, so that walking is getting more troublesome, +but, speaking broadly, the crusts are not comparatively bad and the +surface is rather better than it was. If the hot sun continues this +should still further improve. One cannot see any reason why the crust +should change in the next 100 miles. (Temp. + 2°.) + +The land is visible along the western horizon in patches. Bowers +points out a continuous dark band. Is this the dolerite sill? + +_Thursday, November_ 23.--Camp 19. Getting along. I think the +ponies will get through; we are now 150 geographical miles from +the Glacier. But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more +ponies were to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street. The +surface is much the same I think; before lunch there seemed to be a +marked improvement, and after lunch the ponies marched much better, +so that one supposed a betterment of the friction. It is banking up +to the south (T. +9°) and I'm afraid we may get a blizzard. I hope to +goodness it is not going to stop one marching; forage won't allow that. + +_Friday, November 24._--Camp 20. There was a cold wind changing from +south to S.E. and overcast sky all day yesterday. A gloomy start to our +march, but the cloud rapidly lifted, bands of clear sky broke through +from east to west, and the remnants of cloud dissipated. Now the sun +is very bright and warm. We did the usual march very easily over a +fairly good surface, the ponies now quite steady and regular. Since +the junction with the Motor Party the procedure has been for the +man-hauling people to go forward just ahead of the crocks, the other +party following 2 or 3 hours later. To-day we closed less than usual, +so that the crocks must have been going very well. However, the fiat +had already gone forth, and this morning after the march poor old +Jehu was led back on the track and shot. After our doubts as to his +reaching Hut Point, it is wonderful to think that he has actually +got eight marches beyond our last year limit and could have gone +more. However, towards the end he was pulling very little, and on the +whole it is merciful to have ended his life. Chinaman seems to improve +and will certainly last a good many days yet. The rest show no signs +of flagging and are only moderately hungry. The surface is tiring for +walking, as one sinks two or three inches nearly all the time. I feel +we ought to get through now. Day and Hooper leave us to-night. + +_Saturday, November 25._--Camp 21. The surface during the first +march was very heavy owing to a liberal coating of ice crystals; it +improved during the second march becoming quite good towards the end +(T.-2°). Now that it is pretty warm at night it is obviously desirable +to work towards day marching. We shall start 2 hours later to-night +and again to-morrow night. + +Last night we bade farewell to Day and Hooper and set out with the +new organisation (T.-8°). All started together, the man-haulers, +Evans, Lashly, and Atkinson, going ahead with their gear on the +10-ft. sledge. Chinaman and James Pigg next, and the rest some +ten minutes behind. We reached the lunch camp together and started +therefrom in the same order, the two crocks somewhat behind, but +not more than 300 yards at the finish, so we all got into camp very +satisfactorily together. The men said the first march was extremely +heavy (T.-(-2°). + +The sun has been shining all night, but towards midnight light mist +clouds arose, half obscuring the leading parties. Land can be dimly +discerned nearly ahead. The ponies are slowly tiring, but we lighten +loads again to-morrow by making another depôt. Meares has just come up +to report that Jehu made four feeds for the dogs. He cut up very well +and had quite a lot of fat on him. Meares says another pony will carry +him to the Glacier. This is very good hearing. The men are pulling +with ski sticks and say that they are a great assistance. I think of +taking them up the Glacier. Jehu has certainly come up trumps after +all, and Chinaman bids fair to be even more valuable. Only a few more +marches to feel safe in getting to our first goal. + +_Sunday, November_ 26.--Camp 22. Lunch camp. Marched here fairly +easily, comparatively good surface. Started at 1 A.M. (midnight, +local time). We now keep a steady pace of 2 miles an hour, very good +going. The sky was slightly overcast at start and between two and three +it grew very misty. Before we camped we lost sight of the men-haulers +only 300 yards ahead. The sun is piercing the mist. Here in Lat. 81° +35' we are leaving our 'Middle Barrier Depôt,' one week for each re +unit as at Mount Hooper. + +Camp 22.--Snow began falling during the second march; it is blowing +from the W.S.W., force 2 to 3, with snow pattering on the tent, +a kind of summery blizzard that reminds one of April showers at +home. The ponies came well on the second march and we shall start +2 hours later again to-morrow, i.e. at 3 A.M. (T.+13°). From this +it will be a very short step to day routine when the time comes for +man-hauling. The sastrugi seem to be gradually coming more to the +south and a little more confused; now and again they are crossed with +hard westerly sastrugi. The walking is tiring for the men, one's feet +sinking 2 or 3 inches at each step. Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg kept up +splendidly with the other ponies. It is always rather dismal work +walking over the great snow plain when sky and surface merge in one +pall of dead whiteness, but it is cheering to be in such good company +with everything going on steadily and well. The dogs came up as we +camped. Meares says the best surface he has had yet. + +_Monday, November_ 27.--Camp 23. (T. +8°, 12 P.M.; +2°, 3 A.M.; +13°, +11 A.M.; +17°, 3 P.M.) Quite the most trying march we have had. The +surface very poor at start. The advance party got away in front but +made heavy weather of it, and we caught them up several times. This +threw the ponies out of their regular work and prolonged the march. It +grew overcast again, although after a summery blizzard all yesterday +there was promise of better things. Starting at 3 A.M. we did not +get to lunch camp much before 9. The second march was even worse. The +advance party started on ski, the leading marks failed altogether, and +they had the greatest difficulty in keeping a course. At the midcairn +building halt the snow suddenly came down heavily, with a rise of +temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged (bad fahrer, +as the Norwegians say). At this time the surface was unspeakably +heavy for pulling, but in a few minutes a south wind sprang up and a +beneficial result was immediately felt. Pulling on foot, the advance +had even greater difficulty in going straight until the last half +mile, when the sky broke slightly. We got off our march, but under +the most harassing circumstances and with the animals very tired. It +is snowing hard again now, and heaven only knows when it will stop. + +If it were not for the surface and bad light, things would not be +so bad. There are few sastrugi and little deep snow. For the most +part men and ponies sink to a hard crust some 3 or 4 inches beneath +the soft upper snow. Tiring for the men, but in itself more even, +and therefore less tiring for the animals. Meares just come up and +reporting very bad surface. We shall start 1 hour later to-morrow, +i.e. at 4 A.M., making 5 hours' delay on the conditions of three days +ago. Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13 +(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can only +hope for better things. It is several days since we had a glimpse +of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired animal +makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very bright now after +the day's march, though we have had ample sleep of late. + +_Tuesday, November_ 28.--Camp 24. The most dismal start +imaginable. Thick as a hedge, snow falling and drifting with keen +southerly wind. The men pulled out at 3.15 with Chinaman and James +Pigg. We followed at 4.20, just catching the party at the lunch camp at +8.30. Things got better half way; the sky showed signs of clearing and +the steering improved. Now, at lunch, it is getting thick again. When +will the wretched blizzard be over? The walking is better for ponies, +worse for men; there is nearly everywhere a hard crust some 3 to 6 +inches down. Towards the end of the march we crossed a succession +of high hard south-easterly sastrugi, widely dispersed. I don't know +what to make of these. + +Second march almost as horrid as the first. Wind blowing strong from +the south, shifting to S.E. as the snowstorms fell on us, when we +could see little or nothing, and the driving snow hit us stingingly +in the face. The general impression of all this dirty weather is that +it spreads in from the S.E. We started at 4 A.M., and I think I shall +stick to that custom for the present. These last four marches have +been fought for, but completed without hitch, and, though we camped +in a snowstorm, there is a more promising look in the sky, and if +only for a time the wind has dropped and the sun shines brightly, +dispelling some of the gloomy results of the distressing marching. + +Chinaman, 'The Thunderbolt,' has been shot to-night. Plucky little +chap, he has stuck it out well and leaves the stage but a few days +before his fellows. We have only four bags of forage (each one 30 +lbs.) left, but these should give seven marches with all the remaining +animals, and we are less than 90 miles from the Glacier. Bowers tells +me that the barometer was phenomenally low both during this blizzard +and the last. This has certainly been the most unexpected and trying +summer blizzard yet experienced in this region. I only trust it is +over. There is not much to choose between the remaining ponies. Nobby +and Bones are the strongest, Victor and Christopher the weakest, +but all should get through. The land doesn't show up yet. + +_Wednesday, November_ 29.--Camp 25. Lat. 82° 21'. Things much +better. The land showed up late yesterday; Mount Markham, a magnificent +triple peak, appearing wonderfully close, Cape Lyttelton and Cape +Goldie. We did our march in good time, leaving about 4.20, and getting +into this camp at 1.15. About 7 1/2 hours on the march. I suppose +our speed throughout averages 2 stat. miles an hour. + +The land showed hazily on the march, at times looking remarkably +near. Sheety white snowy stratus cloud hung about overhead during +the first march, but now the sky is clearing, the sun very warm and +bright. Land shows up almost ahead now, our pony goal less than 70 +miles away. The ponies are tired, but I believe all have five days' +work left in them, and some a great deal more. Chinaman made four feeds +for the dogs, and I suppose we can count every other pony as a similar +asset. It follows that the dogs can be employed, rested, and fed well +on the homeward track. We could really get though now with their help +and without much delay, yet every consideration makes it desirable +to save the men from heavy hauling as long as possible. So I devoutly +hope the 70 miles will come in the present order of things. Snippets +and Nobby now walk by themselves, following in the tracks well. Both +have a continually cunning eye on their driver, ready to stop the +moment he pauses. They eat snow every few minutes. It's a relief not +having to lead an animal; such trifles annoy one on these marches, +the animal's vagaries, his everlasting attempts to eat his head rope, +&c. Yet all these animals are very full of character. Some day I must +write of them and their individualities. + +The men-haulers started 1 1/2 hours before us and got here a good +hour ahead, travelling easily throughout. Such is the surface +with the sun on it, justifying my decision to work towards day +marching. Evans has suggested the word 'glide' for the quality of +surface indicated. 'Surface' is more comprehensive, and includes +the crusts and liability to sink in them. From this point of view the +surface is distinctly bad. The ponies plough deep all the time, and the +men most of the time. The sastrugi are rather more clearly S.E.; this +would be from winds sweeping along the coast. We have a recurrence of +'sinking crusts'--areas which give way with a report. There has been +little of this since we left One Ton Camp until yesterday and to-day, +when it is again very marked. Certainly the open Barrier conditions are +different from those near the coast. Altogether things look much better +and everyone is in excellent spirits. Meares has been measuring the +holes made by ponies' hooves and finds an average of about 8 inches +since we left One Ton Camp. He finds many holes a foot deep. This +gives a good indication of the nature of the work. In Bowers' tent +they had some of Chinaman's undercut in their hoosh yesterday, and +say it was excellent. I am cook for the present. Have been discussing +pony snowshoes. I wish to goodness the animals would wear them--it +would save them any amount of labour in such surfaces as this. + +_Thursday, November_ 30.--Camp 26. A very pleasant day for marching, +but a very tiring march for the poor animals, which, with the exception +of Nobby, are showing signs of failure all round. We were slower by +half an hour or more than yesterday. Except that the loads are light +now and there are still eight animals left, things don't look too +pleasant, but we should be less than 60 miles from our first point +of aim. The surface was much worse to-day, the ponies sinking to +their knees very often. There were a few harder patches towards the +end of the march. In spite of the sun there was not much 'glide' on +the snow. The dogs are reported as doing very well. They are going +to be a great standby, no doubt. The land has been veiled in thin +white mist; it appeared at intervals after we camped and I had taken +a couple of photographs. + +_Friday, December_ 1.--Camp 27. Lat. 82° 47'. The ponies are tiring +pretty rapidly. It is a question of days with all except Nobby. Yet +they are outlasting the forage, and to-night against some opinion I +decided Christopher must go. He has been shot; less regret goes with +him than the others, in remembrance of all the trouble he gave at the +outset, and the unsatisfactory way he has gone of late. Here we leave +a depôt [31] so that no extra weight is brought on the other ponies; +in fact there is a slight diminution. Three more marches ought to +bring us through. With the seven crocks and the dog teams we _must_ +get through I think. The men alone ought not to have heavy loads on +the surface, which is extremely trying. + +Nobby was tried in snowshoes this morning, and came along splendidly +on them for about four miles, then the wretched affairs racked and had +to be taken off. There is no doubt that these snowshoes are _the_ thing +for ponies, and had ours been able to use them from the beginning they +would have been very different in appearance at this moment. I think +the sight of land has helped the animals, but not much. We started in +bright warm sunshine and with the mountains wonderfully clear on our +right hand, but towards the end of the march clouds worked up from the +east and a thin broken cumulo-stratus now overspreads the sky, leaving +the land still visible but dull. A fine glacier descends from Mount +Longstaff. It has cut very deep and the walls stand at an angle of at +least 50°. Otherwise, although there are many cwms on the lower ranges, +the mountains themselves seem little carved. They are rounded massive +structures. A cliff of light yellow-brown rock appears opposite us, +flanked with black or dark brown rock, which also appears under the +lighter colour. One would be glad to know what nature of rock these +represent. There is a good deal of exposed rock on the next range also. + +_Saturday, December_ 2.--Camp 28. Lat. 83°. Started under very bad +weather conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E. last night +meant mischief, and all day we marched in falling snow with a horrible +light. The ponies went poorly on the first march, when there was little +or no wind and a high temperature. They were sinking deep on a wretched +surface. I suggested to Oates that he should have a roving commission +to watch the animals, but he much preferred to lead one, so I handed +over Snippets very willingly and went on ski myself. It was very easy +work for me and I took several photographs of the ponies plunging +along--the light very strong at 3 (Watkins actinometer). The ponies +did much better on the second march, both surface and glide improved; +I went ahead and found myself obliged to take a very steady pace to +keep the lead, so we arrived in camp in flourishing condition. Sad to +have to order Victor's end--poor Bowers feels it. He is in excellent +condition and will provide five feeds for the dogs. (Temp. + 17°.) We +must kill now as the forage is so short, but we have reached the 83rd +parallel and are practically safe to get through. To-night the sky is +breaking and conditions generally more promising--it is dreadfully +dismal work marching through the blank wall of white, and we should +have very great difficulty if we had not a party to go ahead and show +the course. The dogs are doing splendidly and will take a heavier +load from to-morrow. We kill another pony to-morrow night if we get +our march off, and shall then have nearly three days' food for the +other five. In fact everything looks well if the weather will only +give us a chance to see our way to the Glacier. Wild, in his Diary of +Shackleton's Journey, remarks on December 15, that it is the first day +for a month that he could not record splendid weather. With us a fine +day has been the exception so far. However, we have not lost a march +yet. It was so warm when we camped that the snow melted as it fell, +and everything got sopping wet. Oates came into my tent yesterday, +exchanging with Cherry-Garrard. + +The lists now: Self, Wilson, Oates, and Keohane. Bowers, P.O. Evans, +Cherry and Crean. + +Man-haulers: E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright, and Lashly. We have all +taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger isn't thought of. + +_Sunday, December_ 3.--Camp 29. Our luck in weather is preposterous. I +roused the hands at 2.30 A.M., intending to get away at 5. It was +thick and snowy, yet we could have got on; but at breakfast the +wind increased, and by 4.30 it was blowing a full gale from the +south. The pony wall blew down, huge drifts collected, and the sledges +were quickly buried. It was the strongest wind I have known here in +summer. At 11 it began to take off. At 12.30 we got up and had lunch +and got ready to start. The land appeared, the clouds broke, and +by 1.30 we were in bright sunshine. We were off at 2 P.M., the land +showing all round, and, but for some cloud to the S.E., everything +promising. At 2.15 I saw the south-easterly cloud spreading up; +it blotted out the land 30 miles away at 2.30 and was on us before +3. The sun went out, snow fell thickly, and marching conditions became +horrible. The wind increased from the S.E., changed to S.W., where +it hung for a time, and suddenly shifted to W.N.W. and then N.N.W., +from which direction it is now blowing with falling and drifting +snow. The changes of conditions are inconceivably rapid, perfectly +bewildering. In spite of all these difficulties we have managed to +get 11 1/2 miles south and to this camp at 7 P.M.-the conditions of +marching simply horrible. + +The man-haulers led out 6 miles (geo.) and then camped. I think +they had had enough of leading. We passed them, Bowers and I ahead +on ski. We steered with compass, the drifting snow across our ski, +and occasional glimpse of south-easterly sastrugi under them, till +the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The whole weather +conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they continue so when we +are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly placed. It is really +time the luck turned in our favour--we have had all too little of +it. Every mile seems to have been hardly won under such conditions. The +ponies did splendidly and the forage is lasting a little better than +expected. Victor was found to have quite a lot of fat on him and the +others are pretty certain to have more, so that vwe should have no +difficulty whatever as regards transport if only the weather was kind. + +_Monday, December_ 4.--Camp 29, 9 A.M. I roused the party at +6. During the night the wind had changed from N.N.W. to S.S.E.; it +was not strong, but the sun was obscured and the sky looked heavy; +patches of land could be faintly seen and we thought that at any rate +we could get on, but during breakfast the wind suddenly increased +in force and afterwards a glance outside was sufficient to show a +regular white floury blizzard. We have all been out building fresh +walls for the ponies--an uninviting task, but one which greatly adds +to the comfort of the animals, who look sleepy and bored, but not at +all cold. The dogs came up with us as we camped last night arid the +man-haulers arrived this morning as we finished the pony wall. So we +are all together again. The latter had great difficulty in following +our tracks, and say they could not have steered a course without +them. It is utterly impossible to push ahead in this weather, and +one is at a complete loss to account for it. The barometer rose from +29.4 to 29.9 last night, a phenomenal rise. Evidently there is very +great disturbance of atmospheric conditions. Well, one must stick it +out, that is all, and hope for better things, but it makes me feel +a little bitter to contrast such weather with that experienced by +our predecessors. + +Camp 30.--The wind fell in the forenoon, at 12.30 the sky began to +clear, by 1 the sun shone, by 2 P.M. we were away, and by 8 P.M. camped +here with 13 miles to the good. The land was quite clear throughout +the march and the features easily recognised. There are several +uncharted glaciers of large dimensions, a confluence of three under +Mount Reid. The mountains are rounded in outline, very massive, with +small excrescent peaks and undeveloped 'cwms' (T. + 18°). The cwms +are very fine in the lower foot-hills and the glaciers have carved +deep channels between walls at very high angles; one or two peaks on +the foot-hills stand bare and almost perpendicular, probably granite; +we should know later. Ahead of us is the ice-rounded, boulder-strewn +Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. We should reach it easily +enough on to-morrow's march if we can compass 12 miles. The ponies +marched splendidly to-day, crossing the deep snow in the undulations +without difficulty. They must be in very much better condition than +Shackleton's animals, and indeed there isn't a doubt they would go +many miles yet if food allowed. The dogs are simply splendid, but came +in wanting food, so we had to sacrifice poor little Michael, who, +like the rest, had lots of fat on him. All the tents are consuming +pony flesh and thoroughly enjoying it. + +We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two wretched days, but the +disturbed condition of the weather makes me anxious with regard to the +Glacier, where more than anywhere we shall need fine days. One has a +horrid feeling that this is a real bad season. However, sufficient +for the day is the evil thereof. We are practically through with +the first stage of our journey. Looking from the last camp towards +the S.S.E., where the farthest land can be seen, it seemed more +than probable that a very high latitude could be reached on the +Barrier, and if Amundsen journeying that way has a stroke of luck, +he may well find his summit journey reduced to 100 miles or so. In +any case it is a fascinating direction for next year's work if only +fresh transport arrives. The dips between undulations seem to be +about 12 to 15 feet. To-night we get puffs of wind from the gateway, +which for the moment looks uninviting. + + + +Four Days' Delay + +_Tuesday, December_ 5.--Camp 30. Noon. We awoke this morning to +a raging, howling blizzard. The blows we have had hitherto have +lacked the very fine powdery snow--that especial feature of the +blizzard. To-day we have it fully developed. After a minute or two in +the open one is covered from head to foot. The temperature is high, so +that what falls or drives against one sticks. The ponies--head, tails, +legs, and all parts not protected by their rugs--are covered with ice; +the animals are standing deep in snow, the sledges are almost covered, +and huge drifts above the tents. We have had breakfast, rebuilt the +walls, and are now again in our bags. One cannot see the next tent, +let alone the land. What on earth does such weather mean at this time +of year? It is more than our share of ill-fortune, I think, but the +luck may turn yet. I doubt if any party could travel in such weather +even with the wind, certainly no one could travel against it. + +Is there some widespread atmospheric disturbance which will be felt +everywhere in this region as a bad season, or are we merely the +victims of exceptional local conditions? If the latter, there is food +for thought in picturing our small party struggling against adversity +in one place whilst others go smilingly forward in the sunshine. How +great may be the element of luck! No foresight--no procedure--could +have prepared us for this state of affairs. Had we been ten times +as experienced or certain of our aim we should not have expected +such rebuffs. + +11 P.M.--It has blown hard all day with quite the greatest snowfall I +remember. The drifts about the tents are simply huge. The temperature +was + 27° this forenoon, and rose to +31° in the afternoon, at +which time the snow melted as it fell on anything but the snow, +and, as a consequence, there are pools of water on everything, +the tents are wet through, also the wind clothes, night boots, &c.; +water drips from the tent poles and door, lies on the floorcloth, +soaks the sleeping-bags, and makes everything pretty wretched. If a +cold snap follows before we have had time to dry our things, we shall +be mighty uncomfortable. Yet after all it would be humorous enough +if it were not for the seriousness of delay--we can't afford that, +and it's real hard luck that it should come at such a time. The wind +shows signs of easing down, but the temperature does not fall and +the snow is as wet as ever--not promising signs of abatement. + +Keohane's rhyme! + +The snow is all melting and everything's afloat, If this goes on +much longer we shall have to turn the _tent_ upside down and use it +as a boat. + +_Wednesday, December_ 6.--Camp 30. Noon. Miserable, utterly +miserable. We have camped in the 'Slough of Despond.' The tempest +rages with unabated violence. The temperature has gone to 33°; +everything in the tent is soaking. People returning from the outside +look exactly as though they had been in a heavy shower of rain. They +drip pools on the floorcloth. The snow is steadily climbing higher +about walls, ponies, tents, and sledges. The ponies look utterly +desolate. Oh! but this is too crushing, and we are only 12 miles from +the Glacier. A hopeless feeling descends on one and is hard to fight +off. What immense patience is needed for such occasions! + +11 P.M.--At 5 there came signs of a break at last, and now one can +see the land, but the sky is still overcast and there is a lot of +snow about. The wind also remains fairly strong and the temperature +high. It is not pleasant, but if no worse in the morning we can get +on at last. We are very, very wet. + +_Thursday, December_ 7.--Camp 30. The storm continues and the situation +is now serious. One small feed remains for the ponies after to-day, +so that we must either march to-morrow or sacrifice the animals. That +is not the worst; with the help of the dogs we could get on, without +doubt. The serious part is that we have this morning started our +summer rations, that is to say, the food calculated from the Glacier +depot has been begun. The first supporting party can only go on a +fortnight from this date and so forth. The storm shows no sign of +abatement and its character is as unpleasant as ever. The promise +of last night died away about 3 A.M., when the temperature and wind +rose again, and things reverted to the old conditions. I can find +no sign of an end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible +to move. Resignation to misfortune is the only attitude, but not an +easy one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid and +so nearly crowned with a first success. I cannot see that any plan +would be altered if it were to do again, the margin for bad weather +was ample according to all experience, and this stormy December--our +finest month--is a thing that the most cautious organiser might not +have been prepared to encounter. It is very evil to lie here in a wet +sleeping-bag and think of the pity of it, whilst with no break in the +overcast sky things go steadily from bad to worse (T. 32°). Meares has +a bad attack of snow blindness in one eye. I hope this rest will help +him, but he says it has been painful for a long time. There cannot +be good cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready to break +out again. In the brief spell of hope last night one heard laughter. + +Midnight. Little or no improvement. The barometer is rising--perhaps +there is hope in that. Surely few situations could be more exasperating +than this of forced inactivity when every day and indeed one hour +counts. To be here watching the mottled wet green walls of our tent, +the glistening wet bamboos, the bedraggled sopping socks and loose +articles dangling in the middle, the saddened countenances of my +companions--to hear the everlasting patter of the falling snow +and the ceaseless rattle of the fluttering canvas--to feel the wet +clinging dampness of clothes and everything touched, and to know that +without there is but a blank wall of white on every side--these are +the physical surroundings. Add the stress of sighted failure of our +whole plan, and anyone must find the circumstances unenviable. But yet, +after all, one can go on striving, endeavouring to find a stimulation +in the difficulties that arise. + +_Friday, December_ 8.--Camp 30. Hoped against hope for better +conditions, to wake to the mournfullest snow and wind as usual. We had +breakfast at 10, and at noon the wind dropped. We set about digging out +the sledges, no light task. We then shifted our tent sites. All tents +had been reduced to the smallest volume by the gradual pressure of +snow. The old sites are deep pits with hollowed-in wet centres. The +re-setting of the tent has at least given us comfort, especially +since the wind has dropped. About 4 the sky showed signs of breaking, +the sun and a few patches of land could be dimly discerned. The wind +shifted in light airs and a little hope revived. Alas! as I write +the sun has disappeared and snow is again falling. + +Our case is growing desperate. Evans and his man-haulers tried to pull +a load this afternoon. They managed to move a sledge with four people +on it, pulling in ski. Pulling on foot they sank to the knees. The snow +all about us is terribly deep. We tried Nobby and he plunged to his +belly in it. Wilson thinks the ponies finished,_21_ but Oates thinks +they will get another march in spite of the surface, _if it comes +to-morrow_. If it should not, we must kill the ponies to-morrow and get +on as best we can with the men on ski and the dogs. But one wonders +what the dogs can do on such a surface. I much fear they also will +prove inadequate. Oh! for fine weather, if only to the Glacier. The +temperature remains 33°, and everything is disgustingly wet. + +11 P.M.--The wind has gone to the north, the sky is really breaking at +last, the sun showing less sparingly, and the land appearing out of +the haze. The temperature has fallen to 26°, and the water nuisance +is already bating. With so fair a promise of improvement it would be +too cruel to have to face bad weather to-morrow. There is good cheer +in the camp to-night in the prospect of action. The poor ponies look +wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, yet they are +not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from food left in their +nosebags. They look wonderfully fit, all things considered. Everything +looks more hopeful to-night, but nothing can recall four lost days. + +_Saturday, December_ 9.--Camp 31. I turned out two or three times in +the night to find the weather slowly improving; at 5.30 we all got up, +and at 8 got away with the ponies--a most painful day. The tremendous +snowfall of the late storm had made the surface intolerably soft, +and after the first hour there was no glide. We pressed on the poor +half-rationed animals, but could get none to lead for more than a few +minutes; following, the animals would do fairly well. It looked as +we could never make headway; the man-haulers were pressed into the +service to aid matters. Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with +one 10-foot sledge,--thus most painfully we made about a mile. The +situation was saved by P.O. Evans, who put the last pair of snowshoes +on Snatcher. From this he went on without much pressing, the other +ponies followed, and one by one were worn out in the second place. We +went on all day without lunch. Three or four miles (T. 23°) found +us engulfed in pressures, but free from difficulty except the awful +softness of the snow. By 8 P.M. we had reached within a mile or so of +the slope ascending to the gap which Shackleton called the Gateway._22_ +I had hoped to be through the Gateway with the ponies still in hand +at a very much earlier date and, but for the devastating storm, we +should have been. It has been a most serious blow to us, but things +are not yet desperate, if only the storm has not hopelessly spoilt +the surface. The man-haulers are not up yet, in spite of their light +load. I think they have stopped for tea, or something, but under +ordinary conditions they would have passed us with ease. + +At 8 P.M. the ponies were quite done, one and all. They came on +painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time. By this time I +was hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the +pulling heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. [32] +Poor beasts! they have done wonderfully well considering the terrible +circumstances under which they worked, but yet it is hard to have to +kill them so early. The dogs are going well in spite of the surface, +but here again one cannot get the help one would wish. (T. 19°.) I +cannot load the animals heavily on such snow. The scenery is most +impressive; three huge pillars of granite form the right buttress +of the Gateway, and a sharp spur of Mount Hope the left. The land is +much more snow covered than when we saw it before the storm. In spite +of some doubt in our outlook, everyone is very cheerful to-night and +jokes are flying freely around. + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +On the Beardmore Glacier + +_Sunday, December_ 10.--Camp 32. [33] I was very anxious about getting +our loads forward over such an appalling surface, and that we have +done so is mainly due to the ski. I roused everyone at 8, but it +was noon before all the readjustments of load had been made and we +were ready to start. The dogs carried 600 lbs. of our weight besides +the depot (200 lbs.). It was greatly to my surprise when we--my own +party--with a 'one, two, three together' started our sledge, and we +found it running fairly easily behind us. We did the first mile at +a rate of about 2 miles an hour, having previously very carefully +scraped and dried our runners. The day was gloriously fine and we +were soon perspiring. After the first mile we began to rise, and for +some way on a steep slope we held to our ski and kept going. Then the +slope got steeper and the surface much worse, and we had to take off +our ski. The pulling after this was extraordinarily fatiguing. We sank +above our finnesko everywhere, and in places nearly to our knees. The +runners of the sledges got coated with a thin film of ice from which we +could not free them, and the sledges themselves sank to the crossbars +in soft spots. All the time they were literally ploughing the snow. We +reached the top of the slope at 5, and started on after tea on the +down grade. On this we had to pull almost as hard as on the upward +slope, but could just manage to get along on ski. We camped at 9.15, +when a heavy wind coming down the glacier suddenly fell on us; but +I had decided to camp before, as Evans' party could not keep up, and +Wilson told me some very alarming news concerning it. It appears that +Atkinson says that Wright is getting played out and Lashly is not so +fit as he was owing to the heavy pulling since the blizzard. I have +not felt satisfied about this party. The finish of the march to-day +showed clearly that something was wrong. They fell a long way behind, +had to take off ski, and took nearly half an hour to come up a few +hundred yards. True, the surface was awful and growing worse every +moment. It is a very serious business if the men are going to crack +up. As for myself, I never felt fitter and my party can easily hold +its own. P.O. Evans, of course, is a tower of strength, but Oates +and Wilson are doing splendidly also. + +Here where we are camped the snow is worse than I have ever seen +it, but we are in a hollow. Every step here one sinks to the knees +and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to support the +sledges. Perhaps this wind is a blessing in disguise, already it seems +to be hardening the snow. All this soft snow is an aftermath of our +prolonged storm. Hereabouts Shackleton found hard blue ice. It seems +an extraordinary difference in fortune, and at every step S.'s luck +becomes more evident. I take the dogs on for half a day to-morrow, +then send them home. We have 200 lbs. to add to each sledge load and +could easily do it on a reasonable surface, but it looks very much as +though we shall be forced to relay if present conditions hold. There +is a strong wind down the glacier to-night. + +'_Beardmore Glacier_.--Just a tiny note to be taken back by the +dogs. Things are not so rosy as they might be, but we keep our spirits +up and say the luck must turn. This is only to tell you that I find +I can keep up with the rest as well as of old.' + +_Monday, December_ 11.--Camp 33. A very good day from one point of +view, very bad from another. We started straight out over the glacier +and passed through a good deal of disturbance. We pulled on ski and the +dogs followed. I cautioned the drivers to keep close to their sledges +and we must have passed over a good many crevasses undiscovered by us, +thanks to ski, and by the dogs owing to the soft snow. In one only +Seaman Evans dropped a leg, ski and all. We built our depot [34] +before starting, made it very conspicuous, and left a good deal of +gear there. The old man-hauling party made heavy weather at first, +but when relieved of a little weight and having cleaned their runners +and re-adjusted their load they came on in fine style, and, passing +us, took the lead. Starting about 11, by 3 o'clock we were clear of +the pressure, and I camped the dogs, discharged our loads, and we put +them on our sledges. It was a very anxious business when we started +after lunch, about 4.30. Could we pull our full loads or not? My own +party got away first, and, to my joy, I found we could make fairly +good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft patch, +which brought us up, but we learned to treat such occasions with +patience. We got sideways to the sledge and hauled it out, Evans +(P.O.) getting out of his ski to get better purchase. The great thing +is to keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more there were +dozens of critical moments when it all but stopped, and not a few in +it brought up altogether. The latter were very trying and tiring. But +suddenly the surface grew more uniform and we more accustomed to the +game, for after a long stop to let the other parties come up, I started +at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling easily without a halt at the rate of +about 2 miles an hour. I was very jubilant; all difficulties seemed +to be vanishing; but unfortunately our history was not repeated with +the other parties. Bowers came up about half an hour after us. They +also had done well at the last, and I'm pretty sure they will get +on all right. Keohane is the only weak spot, and he only, I think, +because blind (temporarily). But Evans' party didn't get up till +10. They started quite well, but got into difficulties, did just the +wrong thing by straining again and again, and so, tiring themselves, +went from bad to worse. Their ski shoes, too, are out of trim. + +Just as I thought we were in for making a great score, this difficulty +overtakes us--it is dreadfully trying. The snow around us to-night +is terribly soft, one sinks to the knee at every step; it would be +impossible to drag sledges on foot and very difficult for dogs. Ski are +the thing, and here are my tiresome fellow-countrymen too prejudiced +to have prepared themselves for the event. The dogs should get back +quite easily; there is food all along the line. The glacier wind +sprang up about 7; the morning was very fine and warm. To-night there +is some stratus cloud forming--a hint no more bad weather in sight. A +plentiful crop of snow blindness due to incaution--the sufferers Evans, +Bowers, Keohane, Lashly, Oates--in various degrees. + +This forenoon Wilson went over to a boulder poised on the glacier. It +proved to be a very coarse granite with large crystals of quartz in +it. Evidently the rock of which the pillars of the Gateway and other +neighbouring hills are formed. + +_Tuesday, December_ 12.--Camp 34. We have had a hard day, and during +the forenoon it was my team which made the heaviest weather of the +work. We got bogged again and again, and, do what we would, the +sledge dragged like lead. The others were working hard but nothing +to be compared to us. At 2.30 I halted for lunch, pretty well cooked, +and there was disclosed the secret of our trouble in a thin film with +some hard knots of ice on the runners. Evans' team had been sent off +in advance, and we didn't--couldn't!--catch them, but they saw us +camp and break camp and followed suit. I really dreaded starting after +lunch, but after some trouble to break the sledge out, we went ahead +without a hitch, and in a mile or two recovered our leading place +with obvious ability to keep it. At 6 I saw the other teams were +flagging and so camped at 7, meaning to turn out earlier to-morrow +and start a better routine. We have done about 8 or perhaps 9 miles +(stat.)--the sledge-meters are hopeless on such a surface. + +It is evident that what I expected has occurred. The whole of the +lower valley is filled with snow from the recent storm, and if we +had not had ski we should be hopelessly bogged. On foot one sinks to +the knees, and if pulling on a sledge to half-way between knee and +thigh. It would, therefore, be absolutely impossible to advance on +foot with our loads. Considering all things, we are getting better +on ski. A crust is forming over the soft snow. In a week or so I have +little doubt it will be strong enough to support sledges and men. At +present it carries neither properly. The sledges get bogged every now +and again, sinking to the crossbars. Needless to say, the hauling is +terrible when this occurs. + +We steered for the Commonwealth Range during the forenoon till we +reached about the middle of the glacier. This showed that the unnamed +glacier to the S.W. raised great pressure. Observing this, I altered +course for the 'Cloudmaker' and later still farther to the west. We +must be getting a much better view of the southern side of the main +glacier than Shackleton got, and consequently have observed a number +of peaks which he did not notice. We are about 5 or 5 1/2 days behind +him as a result of the storm, but on this surface our sledges could +not be more heavily laden than they are, in fact we have not nearly +enough runner surface as it is. Moreover, the sledges are packed too +high and therefore capsize too easily. I do not think the glacier can +be so broad as S. shows it. Certainly the scenery is not nearly so +impressive as that of the Ferrar, but there are interesting features +showing up--a distinct banded structure on Mount Elizabeth, which we +think may well be a recurrence of the Beacon Sandstone--more banding +on the Commonwealth Range. During the three days we have been here the +wind has blown down the glacier at night, or rather from the S.W., and +it has been calm in the morning--a sort of nightly land-breeze. There +is also a very remarkable difference in temperature between day and +night. It was +33° when we started, and without hard work we were +literally soaked through with perspiration. It is now +23°. Evans' +party kept up much better to-day; we had their shoes into our tent +this morning, and P.O. Evans put them into shape again. + +_Wednesday, December_ 13.--Camp 35. A most _damnably_ dismal day. We +started at eight--the pulling terribly bad, though the glide decidedly +good; a new crust in patches, not sufficient to support the ski, but +without possibility of hold. Therefore, as the pullers got on the +hard patches they slipped back. The sledges plunged into the soft +places and stopped dead. Evans' party got away first; we followed, +and for some time helped them forward at their stops, but this proved +altogether too much for us, so I forged ahead and camped at 1 P.M., as +the others were far astern. During lunch I decided to try the 10-feet +runners under the crossbars and we spent three hours in securing +them. There was no delay on account of the slow progress of the other +parties. Evans passed us, and for some time went forward fairly well up +a decided slope. The sun was shining on the surface by this time, and +the temperature high. Bowers started after Evans, and it was easy to +see the really terrible state of affairs with them. They made desperate +efforts to get along, but ever got more and more bogged--evidently the +glide had vanished. When we got away we soon discovered how awful the +surface had become; added to the forenoon difficulties the snow had +become wet and sticky. We got our load along, soon passing Bowers, +but the toil was simply awful. We were soaked with perspiration and +thoroughly breathless with our efforts. Again and again the sledge +got one runner on harder snow than the other, canted on its side, +and refused to move. At the top of the rise I found Evans reduced to +relay work, and Bowers followed his example soon after. We got our +whole load through till 7 P.M., camping time, but only with repeated +halts and labour which was altogether too strenuous. The other parties +certainly cannot get a full load along on the surface, and I much +doubt if we could continue to do so, but we must try again to-morrow. + +I suppose we have advanced a bare 4 miles to-day and the aspect of +things is very little changed. Our height is now about 1,500 feet; +I had pinned my faith on getting better conditions as we rose, but +it looks as though matters were getting worse instead of better. As +far as the Cloudmaker the valley looks like a huge basin for the +lodgement of such snow as this. We can but toil on, but it is woefully +disheartening. I am not at all hungry, but pretty thirsty. (T. +15°.) I +find our summit ration is even too filling for the present. Two skuas +came round the camp at lunch, no doubt attracted by our 'Shambles' +camp. + +_Thursday, December_ 14.--Camp 36. Indigestion and the soggy +condition of my clothes kept me awake for some time last night, +and the exceptional exercise gives bad attacks of cramp. Our lips +are getting raw and blistered. The eyes of the party are improving, +I am glad to say. We are just starting our march with no very hopeful +outlook. (T. + 13°.) + +_Evening._ (Height about 2000 feet.) Evans' party started first this +morning; for an hour they found the hauling stiff, but after that, +to my great surprise, they went on easily. Bowers followed without +getting over the ground so easily. After the first 200 yards my own +party came on with a swing that told me at once that all would be +well. We soon caught the others and offered to take on more weight, +but Evans' pride wouldn't allow such help. Later in the morning we +exchanged sledges with Bowers, pulled theirs easily, whilst they made +quite heavy work with ours. I am afraid Cherry-Garrard and Keohane +are the weakness of that team, though both put their utmost into +the traces. However, we all lunched together after a satisfactory +morning's work. In the afternoon we did still better, and camped at +6.30 with a very marked change in the land bearings. We must have +come 11 or 12 miles (stat.). We got fearfully hot on the march, +sweated through everything and stripped off jerseys. The result is +we are pretty cold and clammy now, but escape from the soft snow and +a good march compensate every discomfort. At lunch the blue ice was +about 2 feet beneath us, now it is barely a foot, so that I suppose +we shall soon find it uncovered. To-night the sky is overcast and +wind has been blowing up the glacier. I think there will be another +spell of gloomy weather on the Barrier, and the question is whether +this part of the glacier escapes. There are crevasses about, one +about eighteen inches across outside Bowers' tent, and a narrower +one outside our own. I think the soft snow trouble is at an end, +and I could wish nothing better than a continuance of the present +surface. Towards the end of the march we were pulling our loads with +the greatest ease. It is splendid to be getting along and to find +some adequate return for the work we are putting into the business. + +_Friday, December_ 15.--Camp 37. (Height about 2500. Lat. about 84° +8'.) Got away at 8; marched till 1; the surface improving and snow +covering thinner over the blue ice, but the sky overcast and glooming, +the clouds ever coming lower, and Evans' is now decidedly the slowest +unit, though Bowers' is not much faster. We keep up and overhaul +either without difficulty. It was an enormous relief yesterday to +get steady going without involuntary stops, but yesterday and this +morning, once the sledge was stopped, it was very difficult to start +again--the runners got temporarily stuck. This afternoon for the first +time we could start by giving one good heave together, and so for the +first time we are able to stop to readjust footgear or do any other +desirable task. This is a second relief for which we are most grateful. + +At the lunch camp the snow covering was less than a foot, and at this +it is a bare nine inches; patches of ice and hard névé are showing +through in places. I meant to camp at 6.30, but before 5.0 the sky came +down on us with falling snow. We could see nothing, and the pulling +grew very heavy. At 5.45 there seemed nothing to do but camp--another +interrupted march. Our luck is really very bad. We should have done +a good march to-day, as it is we have covered about 11 miles (stat.). + +Since supper there are signs of clearing again, but I don't like the +look of things; this weather has been working up from the S.E. with +all the symptoms of our pony-wrecking storm. Pray heaven we are not +going to have this wretched snow in the worst part of the glacier +to come. The lower part of this glacier is not very interesting, +except from an ice point of view. Except Mount Kyffen, little bare +rock is visible, and its structure at this distance is impossible +to determine. There are no moraines on the surface of the glacier +either. The tributary glaciers are very fine and have cut very deep +courses, though they do not enter at grade. The walls of this valley +are extraordinarily steep; we count them at least 60° in places. The +ice-falls descending over the northern sides are almost continuous one +with another, but the southern steep faces are nearly bare; evidently +the sun gets a good hold on them. There must be a good deal of melting +and rock weathering, the talus heaps are considerable under the +southern rock faces. Higher up the valley there is much more bare rock +and stratification, which promises to be very interesting, but oh! for +fine weather; surely we have had enough of this oppressive gloom. + +_Saturday, December 16_.--Camp 38. A gloomy morning, clearing at noon +and ending in a gloriously fine evening. Although constantly anxious in +the morning, the light held good for travelling throughout the day, +and we have covered 11 miles (stat.), altering the aspect of the +glacier greatly. But the travelling has been very hard. We started +at 7, lunched at 12.15, and marched on till 6.30--over ten hours on +the march--the limit of time to be squeezed into one day. We began on +ski as usual, Evans' team hampering us a bit; the pulling very hard +after yesterday's snowfall. In the afternoon we continued on ski +till after two hours we struck a peculiarly difficult surface--old +hard sastrugi underneath, with pits and high soft sastrugi due to +very recent snowfalls. The sledges were so often brought up by this +that we decided to take to our feet, and thus made better progress, +but for the time with very excessive labour. The crust, brittle, +held for a pace or two, then let one down with a bump some 8 or 10 +inches. Now and again one's leg went down a crack in the hard ice +underneath. We drew up a slope on this surface and discovered a long +icefall extending right across our track, I presume the same pressure +which caused Shackleton to turn towards the Cloudmaker. We made in +for that mountain and soon got on hard, crevassed, undulating ice +with quantities of soft snow in the hollows. The disturbance seems to +increase, but the snow to diminish as we approach the rocks. We shall +look for a moraine and try and follow it up to-morrow. The hills on +our left have horizontally stratified rock alternating with snow. The +exposed rock is very black; the brownish colour of the Cloudmaker has +black horizontal streaks across it. The sides of the glacier north +of the Cloudmaker have a curious cutting, the upper part less steep +than the lower, suggestive of different conditions of glacier-flow +in succeeding ages. + +We must push on all we can, for we are now 6 days behind Shackleton, +all due to that wretched storm. So far, since we got amongst the +disturbances we have not seen such alarming crevasses as I had +expected; certainly dogs could have come up as far as this. At present +one gets terrible hot and perspiring on the march, and quickly cold +when halted, but the sun makes up for all evils. It is very difficult +to know what to do about the ski; their weight is considerable and yet +under certain circumstances they are extraordinarily useful. Everyone +is very satisfied with our summit ration. The party which has been +man-hauling for so long say they are far less hungry than they used +to be. It is good to think that the majority will keep up this good +feeding all through. + +_Sunday, December_ 17.--Camp 39. Soon after starting we found ourselves +in rather a mess; bad pressure ahead and long waves between us and +the land. Blue ice showed on the crests of the waves; very soft snow +lay in the hollows. We had to cross the waves in places 30 feet from +crest to hollow, and we did it by sitting on the sledge and letting +her go. Thus we went down with a rush and our impetus carried us some +way up the other side; then followed a fearfully tough drag to rise +the next crest. After two hours of this I saw a larger wave, the crest +of which continued hard ice up the glacier; we reached this and got +excellent travelling for 2 miles on it, then rose on a steep gradient, +and so topped the pressure ridge. The smooth ice is again lost and +we have patches of hard and soft snow with ice peeping out in places, +cracks in all directions, and legs very frequently down. We have done +very nearly 5 miles (geo.). + +Evening.--(Temp. -12°.) Height about 3500 above Barrier. After lunch +decided to take the risk of sticking to the centre of the glacier, +with good result. We travelled on up the more or less rounded ridge +which I had selected in the morning, and camped at 6.30 with 12 1/2 +stat. miles made good. This has put Mount Hope in the background +and shows us more of the upper reaches. If we can keep up the pace, +we gain on Shackleton, and I don't see any reason why we shouldn't, +except that more pressure is showing up ahead. For once one can say +'sufficient for the day is the good thereof.' Our luck may be on +the turn--I think we deserve it. In spite of the hard work everyone +is very fit and very cheerful, feeling well fed and eager for more +toil. Eyes are much better except poor Wilson's; he has caught a very +bad attack. Remembering his trouble on our last Southern journey, +I fear he is in for a very bad time. + +We got fearfully hot this morning and marched in singlets, which +became wringing wet; thus uncovered the sun gets at one's skin, +and then the wind, which makes it horribly uncomfortable. + +Our lips are very sore. We cover them with the soft silk plaster +which seems about the best thing for the purpose. + +I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will be mostly due to the +chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now one feels the cold strike +directly one stops. We get fearfully thirsty and chip up ice on the +march, as well as drinking a great deal of water on halting. Our fuel +only just does it, but that is all we want, and we have a bit in hand +for the summit. + +The pulling this afternoon was fairly pleasant; at first over hard +snow, and then on to pretty rough ice with surface snowfield cracks, +bad for sledges, but ours promised to come through well. We have +worn our crampons all day and are delighted with them. P.O. Evans, +the inventor of both crampons and ski shoes, is greatly pleased, and +certainly we owe him much. The weather is beginning to look dirty +again, snow clouds rolling in from the east as usual. I believe it +will be overcast to-morrow. + +_Monday, December_ 18.--Camp 40. Lunch nearly 4000 feet above +Barrier. Overcast and snowing this morning as I expected, land showing +on starboard hand, so, though it was gloomy and depressing, we could +march, and did. We have done our 8 stat. miles between 8.20 and 1 +P.M.; at first fairly good surface; then the ice got very rugged +with sword-cut splits. We got on a slope which made matters worse. I +then pulled up to the left, at first without much improvement, +but as we topped a rise the surface got much better and things look +quite promising for the moment. On our right we have now a pretty +good view of the Adams Marshall and Wild Mountains and their very +curious horizontal stratification. Wright has found, amongst bits +of wind-blown debris, an undoubted bit of sandstone and a bit of +black basalt. We must get to know more of the geology before leaving +the glacier finally. This morning all our gear was fringed with ice +crystals which looked very pretty. + +Afternoon.--(Night camp No. 40, about 4500 above +Barrier. T. -11°. Lat. about 84° 34'.) After lunch got on some very +rough stuff within a few hundred yards of pressure ridge. There +seemed no alternative, and we went through with it. Later, the +glacier opened out into a broad basin with irregular undulations, +and we on to a better surface, but later on again this improvement +nearly vanished, so that it has been hard going all day, but we +have done a good mileage (over 14 stat.). We are less than five +days behind S. now. There was a promise of a clearance about noon, +but later more snow clouds drifted over from the east, and now it is +snowing again. We have scarcely caught a gimpse of the eastern side +of the glacier all day. The western side has not been clear enough to +photograph at the halts. It is very annoying, but I suppose we must +be thankful when we can get our marches off. Still sweating horribly +on the march and very thirsty at the halts. + +_Tuesday, December 19_.--Lunch, rise 650. Dist. 8 1/2 geo. Camp +41. Things are looking up. Started on good surface, soon came to very +annoying criss-cross cracks. I fell into two and have bad bruises +on knee and thigh, but we got along all the time until we reached +an admirable smooth ice surface excellent for travelling. The last +mile, névé predominating and therefore the pulling a trifle harder, we +have risen into the upper basin of the glacier. Seemingly close about +us are the various land masses which adjoin the summit: it looks as +though we might have difficulties in the last narrows. We are having +a long lunch hour for angles, photographs, and sketches. The slight +south-westerly wind came down the glacier as we started, and the sky, +which was overcast, has rapidly cleared in consequence. + +Night. Height about 5800. Camp 41. We stepped off this afternoon at the +rate of 2 miles or more an hour, with the very satisfactory result of +17 (stat.) miles to the good for the day. It has not been a strain, +except perhaps for me with my wounds received early in the day. The +wind has kept us cool on the march, which has in consequence been +very much pleasanter; we are not wet in our clothes to-night, and +have not suffered from the same overpowering thirst as on previous +days. (T. -11°.) (Min. -5°.) Evans and Bowers are busy taking angles; +as they have been all day, we shall have material for an excellent +chart. Days like this put heart in one. + +_Wednesday, December 20_.--Camp 42. 6500 feet about. Just got off +our last best half march--10 miles 1150 yards (geo.), over 12 miles +stat. With an afternoon to follow we should do well to-day; the wind +has been coming up the valley. Turning this book [35] seems to have +brought luck. We marched on till nearly 7 o'clock after a long lunch +halt, and covered 19 1/2 geo. miles, nearly 23 (stat.), rising 800 +feet. This morning we came over a considerable extent of hard snow, +then got to hard ice with patches of snow; a state of affairs which has +continued all day. Pulling the sledges in crampons is no difficulty at +all. At lunch Wilson and Bowers walked back 2 miles or so to try and +find Bowers' broken sledgemeter, without result. During their absence +a fog spread about us, carried up the valleys by easterly wind. We +started the afternoon march in this fog very unpleasantly, but later +it gradually lifted, and to-night it is very fine and warm. As the fog +lifted we saw a huge line of pressure ahead; I steered for a place +where the slope looked smoother, and we are camped beneath the spot +to-night. We must be ahead of Shackleton's position on the 17th. All +day we have been admiring a wonderful banded structure of the rock; +to-night it is beautifully clear on Mount Darwin. + +I have just told off the people to return to-morrow night: Atkinson, +Wright, Cherry-Garrard, and Keohane. All are disappointed--poor Wright +rather bitterly, I fear. I dread this necessity of choosing--nothing +could be more heartrending. I calculated our programme to start from +85° 10' with 12 units of food [36] and eight men. We ought to be in +this position to-morrow night, less one day's food. After all our +harassing trouble one cannot but be satisfied with such a prospect. + +_Thursday, December_ 21.--Camp 43. Lat. 85° 7'. Long. 163° 4'. Height +about 8000 feet. Upon Glacier Depot. Temp. -2°. We climbed the ice +slope this morning and found a very bad surface on top, as far as +crevasses were concerned. We all had falls into them, Atkinson and +Teddy Evans going down the length of their harness. Evans had rather +a shake up. The rotten ice surface continued for a long way, though +I crossed to and fro towards the land, trying to get on better ground. + +At 12 the wind came from the north, bringing the inevitable [mist] +up the valley and covering us just as we were in the worst of +places. We camped for lunch, and were obliged to wait two and a half +hours for a clearance. Then the sun began to struggle through and +we were off. We soon got out of the worst crevasses and on to a long +snow slope leading on part of Mount Darwin. It was a very long stiff +pull up, and I held on till 7.30, when, the other team being some way +astern, I camped. We have done a good march, risen to a satisfactory +altitude, and reached a good place for our depot. To-morrow we start +with our fullest summit load, and the first march should show us the +possibilities of our achievement. The temperature has dropped below +zero, but to-night it is so calm and bright that one feels delightfully +warm and comfortable in the tent. Such weather helps greatly in all +the sorting arrangements, &c., which are going on to-night. For me +it is an immense relief to have the indefatigable little Bowers to +see to all detail arrangements of this sort. + +We have risen a great height to-day and I hope it will not be necessary +to go down again, but it looks as though we must dip a bit even to +go to the south-west. + +'December 21, 1911. Lat. 85° S. We are struggling on, considering all +things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety, otherwise +arrangements are working exactly as planned. + +'For your own ear also, I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best +of them. + +'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail of +equipment is right. + +'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear--an +exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region. Teddy +Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness this +morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man I get first +chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which step will give +way. Still all this is interesting enough if one could only go on. + +'Since writing the above I made a dash for it, got out of the valley +out of the fog and away from crevasses. So here we are practically +on the summit and up to date in the provision line. We ought to +get through.' + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +The Summit Journey to the Pole + +A FRESH MS. BOOK + +_On the Flyleaf_.--Ages: Self 43, Wilson 39, Evans (P.O.) 37, Oates +32, Bowers 28. Average 36. + +_Friday, December 22_.--Camp 44, about 7100 +feet. T. -1°. Bar. 22.3. This, the third stage of our journey, is +opening with good promise. We made our depot this morning, then said +an affecting farewell to the returning party, who have taken things +very well, dear good fellows as they are._23_ + +Then we started with our heavy loads about 9.20, I in some +trepidation--quickly dissipated as we went off and up a slope at a +smart pace. The second sledge came close behind us, showing that +we have weeded the weak spots and made the proper choice for the +returning party. + +We came along very easily and lunched at 1, when the sledge-meter +had to be repaired, and we didn't get off again till 3.20, camping at +6.45. Thus with 7 hours' marching we covered 10 1/2 miles (geo.) (12 +stat.). + +Obs.: Lat. 85° 13 1/2'; Long. 161° 55'; Var. 175° 46' E. + +To-morrow we march longer hours, about 9 I hope. Every day the loads +will lighten, and so we ought to make the requisite progress. I +think we have climbed about 250 feet to-day, but thought it more +on the march. We look down on huge pressure ridges to the south and +S.E., and in fact all round except in the direction in which we go, +S.W. We seem to be travelling more or less parallel to a ridge which +extends from Mt. Darwin. Ahead of us to-night is a stiffish incline +and it looks as though there might be pressure behind it. It is very +difficult to judge how matters stand, however, in such a confusion +of elevations and depressions. This course doesn't work wonders in +change of latitude, but I think it is the right track to clear the +pressures--at any rate I shall hold it for the present. + +We passed one or two very broad (30 feet) bridged crevasses with +the usual gaping sides; they were running pretty well in N. and +S. direction. The weather has been beautifully fine all day as it was +last night. (Night Temp. -9°.) This morning there was an hour or so of +haze due to clouds from the N. Now it is perfectly clear, and we get a +fine view of the mountain behind which Wilson has just been sketching. + +_Saturday, December_ 23.--Lunch. Bar. 22.01. Rise 370? Started at 8, +steering S.W. Seemed to be rising, and went on well for about 3 hours, +then got amongst bad crevasses and hard waves. We pushed on to S.W., +but things went from bad to worse, and we had to haul out to the +north, then west. West looks clear for the present, but it is not +a very satisfactory direction. We have done 8 1/2' (geo.), a good +march. (T. -3°. Southerly wind, force 2.) The comfort is that we are +rising. On one slope we got a good view of the land and the pressure +ridges to the S.E. They seem to be disposed 'en échelon' and gave me +the idea of shearing cracks. They seemed to lessen as we ascend. It +is rather trying having to march so far to the west, but if we keep +rising we must come to the end of the obstacles some time. + +_Saturday night_.--Camp 45. T. -3°. Bar. 21.61. ?Rise. Height about +7750. Great vicissitudes of fortune in the afternoon march. Started +west up a slope--about the fifth we have mounted in the last +two days. On top, another pressure appeared on the left, but less +lofty and more snow-covered than that which had troubled us in the +morning. There was temptation to try it, and I had been gradually +turning in its direction. But I stuck to my principle and turned west +up yet another slope. On top of this we got on the most extraordinary +surface--narrow crevasses ran in all directions. They were quite +invisible, being covered with a thin crust of hardened névé without a +sign of a crack in it. We all fell in one after another and sometimes +two together. We have had many unexpected falls before, but usually +through being unable to mark the run of the surface appearances +of cracks, or where such cracks are covered with soft snow. How a +hardened crust can form over a crack is a real puzzle--it seems to +argue extremely slow movement. Dead reckoning, 85° 22' 1'' S., 159° +31' E. + +In the broader crevasses this morning we noticed that it was the +lower edge of the bridge which was rotten, whereas in all in the +glacier the upper edge was open. + +Near the narrow crevasses this afternoon we got about 10 minutes on +snow which had a hard crust and loose crystals below. It was like +breaking through a glass house at each step, but quite suddenly at +5 P.M. everything changed. The hard surface gave place to regular +sastrugi and our horizon levelled in every direction. I hung on +to the S.W. till 6 P.M., and then camped with a delightful feeling +of security that we had at length reached the summit proper. I am +feeling very cheerful about everything to-night. We marched 15 miles +(geo.) (over 17 stat.) to-day, mounting nearly 800 feet and all in +about 8 1/2 hours. My determination to keep mounting irrespective of +course is fully justified and I shall be indeed surprised if we have +any further difficulties with crevasses or steep slopes. To me for the +first time our goal seems really in sight. We can pull our loads and +pull them much faster and farther than I expected in my most hopeful +moments. I only pray for a fair share of good weather. There is a cold +wind now as expected, but with good clothes and well fed as we are, we +can stick a lot worse than we are getting. I trust this may prove the +turning-point in our fortunes for which we have waited so patiently. + +_Sunday, December_ 24.--Lunch. Bar. 21.48. ?Rise 160 feet. Christmas +Eve. 7 1/4 miles geo. due south, and a rise, I think, more than shown +by barometer. This in five hours, on the surface which ought to be a +sample of what we shall have in the future. With our present clothes it +is a fairly heavy plod, but we get over the ground, which is a great +thing. A high pressure ridge has appeared on the 'port bow.' It seems +isolated, but I shall be glad to lose sight of such disturbances. The +wind is continuous from the S.S.E., very searching. We are now marching +in our wind blouses and with somewhat more protection on the head. + +Bar. 21.41. Camp 46. Rise for day ?about 250 ft. or 300 ft. Hypsometer, +8000 ft. + +The first two hours of the afternoon march went very well. Then the +sledges hung a bit, and we plodded on and covered something over 14 +miles (geo.) in the day. We lost sight of the big pressure ridge, +but to-night another smaller one shows fine on the 'port bow,' and the +surface is alternately very hard and fairly soft; dips and rises all +round. It is evident we are skirting more disturbances, and I sincerely +hope it will not mean altering course more to the west. 14 miles in +4 hours is not so bad considering the circumstances. The southerly +wind is continuous and not at all pleasant in camp, but on the march +it keeps us cool. (T. -3°.) The only inconvenience is the extent to +which our faces get iced up. The temperature hovers about zero. + +We have not struck a crevasse all day, which is a good sign. The +sun continues to shine in a cloudless sky, the wind rises and falls, +and about us is a scene of the wildest desolation, but we are a very +cheerful party and to-morrow is Christmas Day, with something extra +in the hoosh. + +_Monday, December_ 25. CHRISTMAS.--Lunch. Bar. 21.14. Rise 240 +feet. The wind was strong last night and this morning; a light snowfall +in the night; a good deal of drift, subsiding when we started, but +still about a foot high. I thought it might have spoilt the surface, +but for the first hour and a half we went along in fine style. Then +we started up a rise, and to our annoyance found ourselves amongst +crevasses once more--very hard, smooth névé between high ridges at +the edge of crevasses, and therefore very difficult to get foothold +to pull the sledges. Got our ski sticks out, which improved matters, +but we had to tack a good deal and several of us went half down. After +half an hour of this I looked round and found the second sledge halted +some way in rear--evidently someone had gone into a crevasse. We saw +the rescue work going on, but had to wait half an hour for the party +to come up, and got mighty cold. It appears that Lashly went down +very suddenly, nearly dragging the crew with him. The sledge ran on +and jammed the span so that the Alpine rope had to be got out and +used to pull Lashly to the surface again. Lashly says the crevasse +was 50 feet deep and 8 feet across, in form U, showing that the word +'unfathomable' can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and as hard +as nails. His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity. + +After topping the crevasse ridge we got on a better surface and came +along fairly well, completing over 7 miles (geo.) just before 1 +o'clock. We have risen nearly 250 feet this morning; the wind was +strong and therefore trying, mainly because it held the sledge; +it is a little lighter now. + +Night. Camp No. 47. Bar. 21.18. T. -7°. I am so replete that I can +scarcely write. After sundry luxuries, such as chocolate and raisins +at lunch, we started off well, but soon got amongst crevasses, huge +snowfields roadways running almost in our direction, and across hidden +cracks into which we frequently fell. Passing for two miles or so along +between two roadways, we came on a huge pit with raised sides. Is +this a submerged mountain peak or a swirl in the stream? Getting +clear of crevasses and on a slightly down grade, we came along at a +swinging pace--splendid. I marched on till nearly 7.30, when we had +covered 15 miles (geo.) (17 1/4 stat.). I knew that supper was to +be a 'tightener,' and indeed it has been--so much that I must leave +description till the morning. + +Dead reckoning, Lat. 85° 50' S.; Long. 159° 8' 2'' E. Bar. 21.22. + +Towards the end of the march we seemed to get into better condition; +about us the surface rises and falls on the long slopes of vast mounds +or undulations--no very definite system in their disposition. We +camped half-way up a long slope. + +In the middle of the afternoon we got another fine view of the +land. The Dominion Range ends abruptly as observed, then come two +straits and two other masses of land. Similarly north of the wild +mountains is another strait and another mass of land. The various +straits are undoubtedly overflows, and the masses of land mark the +inner fringe of the exposed coastal mountains, the general direction of +which seems about S.S.E., from which it appears that one could be much +closer to the Pole on the Barrier by continuing on it to the S.S.E. We +ought to know more of this when Evans' observations are plotted. + +I must write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The +first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavoured with +onion and curry powder and thickened with biscuit; then an arrowroot, +cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding; then cocoa +with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and ginger. After +the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I couldn't finish +our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept splendidly and feel +thoroughly warm--such is the effect of full feeding. + +_Tuesday, December_ 26.--Lunch. Bar. 21.11. Four and three-quarters +hours, 6 3/4 miles (geo.). Perhaps a little slow after plum-pudding, +but I think we are getting on to the surface which is likely to +continue the rest of the way. There are still mild differences of +elevation, but generally speaking the plain is flattening out; no +doubt we are rising slowly. + +Camp 48. Bar. 21.02. The first two hours of the afternoon march went +well; then we got on a rough rise and the sledge came badly. Camped +at 6.30, sledge coming easier again at the end. + +It seems astonishing to be disappointed with a march of 15 +(stat.) miles, when I had contemplated doing little more than 10 with +full loads. + +We are on the 86th parallel. Obs.: 86° 2' S.; 160° 26' E. The +temperature has been pretty consistent of late, -10° to -12° at night, +-3° in the day. The wind has seemed milder to-day--it blows anywhere +from S.E. to south. I had thought to have done with pressures, +but to-night a crevassed slope appears on our right. We shall pass +well clear of it, but there may be others. The undulating character +of the plain causes a great variety of surface, owing, of course, +to the varying angles at which the wind strikes the slopes. We were +half an hour late starting this morning, which accounts for some loss +of distance, though I should be content to keep up an average of 13' +(geo.). + +_Wednesday, December_ 27.--Lunch. Bar. 21.02. The wind light this +morning and the pulling heavy. Everyone sweated, especially the second +team, which had great difficulty in keeping up. We have been going up +and down, the up grades very tiring, especially when we get amongst +sastrugi which jerk the sledge about, but we have done 7 1/4 miles +(geo.). A very bad accident this morning. Bowers broke the only +hypsometer thermometer. We have nothing to check our two aneroids. + +Night camp 49. Bar. 20.82. T. -6.3°. We marched off well after +lunch on a soft, snowy surface, then came to slippery hard sastrugi +and kept a good pace; but I felt this meant something wrong, and on +topping a short rise we were once more in the midst of crevasses and +disturbances. For an hour it was dreadfully trying--had to pick a road, +tumbled into crevasses, and got jerked about abominably. At the summit +of the ridge we came into another 'pit' or 'whirl,' which seemed the +centre of the trouble--is it a submerged mountain peak? During the +last hour and a quarter we pulled out on to soft snow again and moved +well. Camped at 6.45, having covered 13 1/3 miles (geo.). Steering the +party is no light task. One cannot allow one's thoughts to wander as +others do, and when, as this afternoon, one gets amongst disturbances, +I find it is very worrying and tiring. I do trust we shall have no more +of them. We have not lost sight of the sun since we came on the summit; +we should get an extraordinary record of sunshine. It is monotonous +work this; the sledgemeter and theodolite govern the situation. + +_Thursday, December_ 28.--Lunch. Bar. 20.77. I start cooking again +to-morrow morning. We have had a troublesome day but have completed our +13 miles (geo.). My unit pulled away easy this morning and stretched +out for two hours--the second unit made heavy weather. I changed +with Evans and found the second sledge heavy--could keep up, but the +team was not swinging with me as my own team swings. Then I changed +P.O. Evans for Lashly. We seemed to get on better, but at the moment +the surface changed and we came up over a rise with hard sastrugi. At +the top we camped for lunch. What was the difficulty? One theory was +that some members of the second party were stale. Another that all was +due to the bad stepping and want of swing; another that the sledge +pulled heavy. In the afternoon we exchanged sledges, and at first +went off well, but getting into soft snow, we found a terrible drag, +the second party coming quite easily with our sledge. So the sledge +is the cause of the trouble, and talking it out, I found that all is +due to want of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure +has been distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, this afternoon and +only managed to get 12 miles (geo.). The very hard pulling has occurred +on two rises. It appears that the loose snow is blown over the rises +and rests in heaps on the north-facing slopes. It is these heaps +that cause our worst troubles. The weather looks a little doubtful, +a good deal of cirrus cloud in motion over us, radiating E. and W. The +wind shifts from S.E. to S.S.W., rising and falling at intervals; it +is annoying to the march as it retards the sledges, but it must help +the surface, I think, and so hope for better things to-morrow. The +marches are terribly monotonous. One's thoughts wander occasionally to +pleasanter scenes and places, but the necessity to keep the course, +or some hitch in the surface, quickly brings them back. There have +been some hours of very steady plodding to-day; these are the best +part of the business, they mean forgetfulness and advance. + +_Saturday, December_ 30.--Bar. 20.42. Lunch. Night camp +52. Bar. 20.36. Rise about 150. A very trying, tiring march, and only +11 miles (geo.) covered. Wind from the south to S.E., not quite so +strong as usual; the usual clear sky. + +We camped on a rise last night, and it was some time before we +reached the top this morning. This took it out of us as the second +party dropped. I went on 6 l/2 miles (when the second party was some +way astern) and lunched. We came on in the afternoon, the other party +still dropping, camped at 6.30--they at 7.15. We came up another rise +with the usual gritty snow towards the end of the march. For us the +interval between the two rises, some 8 miles, was steady plodding work +which we might keep up for some time. To-morrow I'm going to march +half a day, make a depot and build the 10-feet sledges. The second +party is certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage +with the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly +much worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10°.) We have caught up +Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could persuade +myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward. + +_Sunday, December_ 31.--New Year's Eve. 20.17. Height about +9126. T. -10°. Camp 53. Corrected Aneroid. The second party depoted +its ski and some other weights equivalent to about 100 lbs. I sent +them off first; they marched, but not very fast. We followed and +did not catch them before they camped by direction at 1.30. By this +time we had covered exactly 7 miles (geo.), and we must have risen a +good deal. We rose on a steep incline at the beginning of the march, +and topped another at the end, showing a distance of about 5 miles +between the wretched slopes which give us the hardest pulling, but +as a matter of fact, we have been rising all day. + +We had a good full brew of tea and then set to work stripping the +sledges. That didn't take long, but the process of building up the +10-feet sledges now in operation in the other tent is a long job. Evans +(P.O.) and Crean are tackling it, and it is a very remarkable piece +of work. Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our +party. To build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special +record. Evans (Lieut.) has just found the latitude--86° 56' S., so +that we are pretty near the 87th parallel aimed at for to-night. We +lose half a day, but I hope to make that up by going forward at much +better speed. + +This is to be called the '3 Degree Depot,' and it holds a week's +provisions for both units. + +There is extraordinarily little mirage up here and the refraction +is very small. Except for the seamen we are all sitting in a double +tent--the first time we have put up the inner lining to the tent; +it seems to make us much snugger. + +10 P.M.--The job of rebuilding is taking longer than I expected, +but is now almost done. The 10-feet sledges look very handy. We had +an extra drink of tea and are now turned into our bags in the double +tent (five of us) as warm as toast, and just enough light to write +or work with. Did not get to bed till 2 A.M. + +Obs.: 86° 55' 47'' S.; 165° 5' 48'' E.; Var. 175° 40'E. Morning +Bar. 20.08. + +_Monday, January_ 1, 1912.--NEW YEAR'S DAY. Lunch. Bar. 20.04. Roused +hands about 7.30 and got away 9.30, Evans' party going ahead on +foot. We followed on ski. Very stupidly we had not seen to our ski +shoes beforehand, and it took a good half-hour to get them right; +Wilson especially had trouble. When we did get away, to our surprise +the sledge pulled very easily, and we made fine progress, rapidly +gaining on the foot-haulers. + +Night camp 54. Bar. 19.98. Risen about 150 feet. Height about 9600 +above Barrier. They camped for lunch at 5 1/2 miles and went on easily, +completing 11.3 (geo.) by 7.30. We were delayed again at lunch camp, +Evans repairing the tent, and I the cooker. We caught the other +party more easily in the afternoon and kept alongside them the last +quarter of an hour. It was surprising how easily the sledge pulled; +we have scarcely exerted ourselves all day. + +We have been rising again all day, but the slopes are less +accentuated. I had expected trouble with ski and hard patches, but we +found none at all. (T. -14°.) The temperature is steadily falling, +but it seems to fall with the wind. We are _very_ comfortable in +our double tent. Stick of chocolate to celebrate the New Year. The +supporting party not in very high spirits, they have not managed +matters well for themselves. Prospects seem to get brighter--only +170 miles to go and plenty of food left. + +_Tuesday, January 2_.--T. -17°. Camp 55. Height about 9980. At +lunch my aneroid reading over scale 12,250, shifted hand to read +10,250. Proposed to enter heights in future with correction as +calculated at end of book (minus 340 feet). The foot party went off +early, before 8, and marched till 1. Again from 2.35 to 6.30. We +started more than half an hour later on each march and caught the +others easy. It's been a plod for the foot people and pretty easy +going for us, and we have covered 13 miles (geo.). + +T. -11°: Obs. 87° 20' 8'' S.; 160° 40' 53'' E.; Var. 180°. The sky +is slightly overcast for the first time since we left the glacier; +the sun can be seen already through the veil of stratus, and blue sky +round the horizon. The sastrugi have all been from the S.E. to-day, +and likewise the wind, which has been pretty light. I hope the clouds +do not mean wind or bad surface. The latter became poor towards +the end of the afternoon. We have not risen much to-day, and the +plain seems to be flattening out. Irregularities are best seen by +sastrugi. A skua gull visited us on the march this afternoon--it was +evidently curious, kept alighting on the snow ahead, and fluttering +a few yards as we approached. It seemed to have had little food--an +extraordinary visitor considering our distance from the sea. + +_Wednesday, January_ 3.--Height: Lunch, 10,110; Night, 10,180. Camp +56. T.-17°. Minimum -18.5°. Within 150 miles of our goal. Last night I +decided to reorganise, and this morning told off Teddy Evans, Lashly, +and Crean to return. They are disappointed, but take it well. Bowers is +to come into our tent, and we proceed as a five man unit to-morrow. We +have 5 1/2 units of food--practically over a month's allowance for five +people--it ought to see us through. We came along well on ski to-day, +but the foot-haulers were slow, and so we only got a trifle over 12 +miles (geo.). Very anxious to see how we shall manage to-morrow; if we +can march well with the full load we shall be practically safe, I take +it. The surface was very bad in patches to-day and the wind strong. + +'Lat. 87° 32'. A last note from a hopeful position. I think it's going +to be all right. We have a fine party going forward and arrangements +are all going well.' + +_Thursday, January_ 4.--T. -17°, Lunch T. -16.5°. We were naturally +late getting away this morning, the sledge having to be packed and +arrangements completed for separation of parties. It is wonderful +to see how neatly everything stows on a little sledge, thanks to +P.O. Evans. I was anxious to see how we could pull it, and glad to +find we went easy enough. Bowers on foot pulls between, but behind, +Wilson and myself; he has to keep his own pace and luckily does not +throw us out at all. + +The second party had followed us in case of accident, but as soon as +I was certain we could get along we stopped and said farewell. Teddy +Evans is terribly disappointed but has taken it very well and behaved +like a man. Poor old Crean wept and even Lashly was affected. I was +glad to find their sledge is a mere nothing to them, and thus, no +doubt, they will make a quick journey back._24_ Since leaving them +we have marched on till 1.15 and covered 6.2 miles (geo.). With full +marching days we ought to have no difficulty in keeping up our average. + +Night camp 57. T. -16°. Height 10,280.--We started well on the +afternoon march, going a good speed for 1 1/2 hours; then we came +on a stratum covered with loose sandy snow, and the pulling became +very heavy. We managed to get off 12 1/2 miles (geo.) by 7 P.M., +but it was very heavy work. + +In the afternoon the wind died away, and to-night it is flat calm; +the sun so warm that in spite of the temperature we can stand about +outside in the greatest comfort. It is amusing to stand thus and +remember the constant horrors of our situation as they were painted +for us: the sun is melting the snow on the ski, &c. The plateau +is now very flat, but we are still ascending slowly. The sastrugi +are getting more confused, predominant from the S.E. I wonder what +is in store for us. At present everything seems to be going with +extraordinary smoothness, and one can scarcely believe that obstacles +will not present themselves to make our task more difficult. Perhaps +the surface will be the element to trouble us. + +_Friday, January_ 5.--Camp 58. Height: morning, 10,430; night, +10,320. T. -14.8°. Obs. 87° 57', 159° 13'. Minimum T. -23.5; T. -21°. A +dreadfully trying day. Light wind from the N.N.W. bringing detached +cloud and constant fall of ice crystals. The surface, in consequence, +as bad as could be after the first hour. We started at 8.15, marched +solidly till 1.15, covering 7.4 miles (geo.), and again in the +afternoon we plugged on; by 7 P.M. we had done 12 l/2 miles (geo.), +the hardest we have yet done on the plateau. The sastrugi seemed to +increase as we advanced and they have changed direction from S.W. to +S. by W. In the afternoon a good deal of confusing cross sastrugi, +and to-night a very rough surface with evidences of hard southerly +wind. Luckily the sledge shows no signs of capisizing yet. We sigh +for a breeze to sweep the hard snow, but to-night the outlook is +not promising better things. However, we are very close to the 88th +parallel, little more than 120 miles from the Pole, only a march from +Shackleton's final camp, and in a general way 'getting on.' + +We go little over a mile and a quarter an hour now--it is a big strain +as the shadows creep slowly round from our right through ahead to our +left. What lots of things we think of on these monotonous marches! What +castles one builds now hopefully that the Pole is ours. Bowers took +sights to-day and will take them every third day. We feel the cold +very little, the great comfort of our situation is the excellent +drying effect of the sun. Our socks and finnesko are almost dry each +morning. Cooking for five takes a seriously longer time than cooking +for four; perhaps half an hour on the whole day. It is an item I had +not considered when re-organising. + +_Saturday, January_ 6.--Height 10,470. T. -22.3°. Obstacles +arising--last night we got amongst sastrugi--they increased in height +this morning and now we are in the midst of a sea of fish-hook waves +well remembered from our Northern experience. We took off our ski +after the first 1 1/2 hours and pulled on foot. It is terribly heavy +in places, and, to add to our trouble, every sastrugus is covered with +a beard of sharp branching crystals. We have covered 6 1/2 miles, but +we cannot keep up our average if this sort of surface continues. There +is no wind. + +Camp 59. Lat. 88° 7'. Height 10,430-10,510. Rise of +barometer? T.-22.5°. Minimum -25.8°. Morning. Fearfully hard pull +again, and when we had marched about an hour we discovered that a +sleeping-bag had fallen off the sledge. We had to go back and carry +it on. It cost us over an hour and disorganised our party. We have +only covered 10 1/2 miles (geo.) and it's been about the hardest pull +we've had. We think of leaving our ski here, mainly because of risk +of breakage. Over the sastrugi it is all up and down hill, and the +covering of ice crystals prevents the sledge from gliding even on the +down-grade. The sastrugi, I fear, have come to stay, and we must be +prepared for heavy marching, but in two days I hope to lighten loads +with a depot. We are south of Shackleton's last camp, so, I suppose, +have made the most southerly camp. + +_Sunday, January_ 7.--Height 10,560. Lunch. Temp. -21.3°. The +vicissitudes of this work are bewildering. Last night we decided to +leave our ski on account of the sastrugi. This morning we marched +out a mile in 40 min. and the sastrugi gradually disappeared. I +kept debating the ski question and at this point stopped, and after +discussion we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1 1/2 hours +nearly. Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move +the sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched +coating of loose sandy snow. However, we persisted, and towards the +latter end of our tiring march we began to make better progress, but +the work is still awfully heavy. I must stick to the ski after this. + +Afternoon. Camp 60°. T. -23°. Height 10,570. Obs.: Lat. 88° 18' 40'' +S.; Long. 157° 21' E.; Var. 179° 15' W. Very heavy pulling still, +but did 5 miles (geo.) in over four hours. + +This is the shortest march we have made on the summit, but there +is excuse. Still, there is no doubt if things remained as they are +we could not keep up the strain of such marching for long. Things, +however, luckily will not remain as they are. To-morrow we depot a +week's provision, lightening altogether about 100 lbs. This afternoon +the welcome southerly wind returned and is now blowing force 2 to +3. I cannot but think it will improve the surface. + +The sastrugi are very much diminished, and those from the south seem +to be overpowering those from the S.E. Cloud travelled rapidly over +from the south this afternoon, and the surface was covered with sandy +crystals; these were not so bad as the 'bearded' sastrugi, and oddly +enough the wind and drift only gradually obliterate these striking +formations. We have scarcely risen at all to-day, and the plain looks +very flat. It doesn't look as though there were more rises ahead, and +one could not wish for a better surface if only the crystal deposit +would disappear or harden up. I am awfully glad we have hung on to the +ski; hard as the marching is, it is far less tiring on ski. Bowers has +a heavy time on foot, but nothing seems to tire him. Evans has a nasty +cut on his hand (sledge-making). I hope it won't give trouble. Our +food continues to amply satisfy. What luck to have hit on such an +excellent ration. We really are an excellently found party. + +_Monday, January_ 8.--Camp 60. Noon. T. -19.8°. Min. for night +-25°. Our first summit blizzard. We might just have started after +breakfast, but the wind seemed obviously on the increase, and so has +proved. The sun has not been obscured, but snow is evidently falling +as well as drifting. The sun seems to be getting a little brighter +as the wind increases. The whole phenomenon is very like a Barrier +blizzard, only there is much less snow, as one would expect, and at +present less wind, which is somewhat of a surprise. + +Evans' hand was dressed this morning, and the rest ought to be +good for it. I am not sure it will not do us all good as we lie so +very comfortably, warmly clothed in our comfortable bags, within our +double-walled tent. However, we do not want more than a day's delay at +most, both on account of lost time and food and the snow accumulation +of ice. (Night T. -13.5°.) It has grown much thicker during the day, +from time to time obscuring the sun for the first time. The temperature +is low for a blizzard, but we are very comfortable in our double tent +and the cold snow is not sticky and not easily carried into the tent, +so that the sleeping-bags remain in good condition. (T. -3°.) The +glass is rising slightly. I hope we shall be able to start in the +morning, but fear that a disturbance of this sort may last longer +than our local storm. + +It is quite impossible to speak too highly of my companions. Each +fulfils his office to the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the +lookout to alleviate the small pains and troubles incidental to the +work, now as cook, quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some +fresh expedient to help the camp life; tough as steel on the traces, +never wavering from start to finish. + +Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable headpiece. It is +only now I realise how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes and +crampons have been absolutely indispensable, and if the original +ideas were not his, the details of manufacture and design and the +good workmanship are his alone. He is responsible for every sledge, +every sledge fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and when one +cannot recall a single expression of dissatisfaction with any one of +these items, it shows what an invaluable assistant he has been. Now, +besides superintending the putting up of the tent, he thinks out and +arranges the packing of the sledge; it is extraordinary how neatly +and handily everything is stowed, and how much study has been given to +preserving the suppleness and good running qualities of the machine. On +the Barrier, before the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round, +correcting faults of stowage. + +Little Bowers remains a marvel--he is thoroughly enjoying himself. I +leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and at all times +he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning party should +fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute stores at +various stages of re-organisation, but not one single mistake has +been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the most thorough +and conscientious meteorological record, and to this he now adds +the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing comes amiss to him, +and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty to get him into the tent; +he seems quite oblivious of the cold, and he lies coiled in his bag +writing and working out sights long after the others are asleep. + +Of these three it is a matter for thought and congratulation that +each is sufficiently suited for his own work, but would not be +capable of doing that of the others as well as it is done. Each is +invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period with the ponies; now he is +a foot slogger and goes hard the whole time, does his share of camp +work, and stands the hardship as well as any of us. I would not like +to be without him either. So our five people are perhaps as happily +selected as it is possible to imagine. + +_Tuesday, January_ 9.--Camp 61. RECORD. Lat. 88° 25'. Height 10,270 +ft. Bar. risen I think. T. -4°. Still blowing, and drifting when we +got to breakfast, but signs of taking off. The wind had gradually +shifted from south to E.S.E. After lunch we were able to break camp +in a bad light, but on a good surface. We made a very steady afternoon +march, covering 6 1/2, miles (geo.). This should place us in Lat. 88° +25', beyond the record of Shackleton's walk. All is new ahead. The +barometer has risen since the blizzard, and it looks as though we +were on a level plateau, not to rise much further. + +Obs.: Long. 159° 17' 45'' E.; Var. 179° 55' W.; Min. Temp. -7.2°. + +More curiously the temperature continued to rise after the blow +and now, at -4°, it seems quite warm. The sun has only shown very +indistinctly all the afternoon, although brighter now. Clouds are +still drifting over from the east. The marching is growing terribly +monotonous, but one cannot grumble as long as the distance can be +kept up. It can, I think, if we leave a depot, but a very annoying +thing has happened. Bowers' watch has suddenly dropped 26 minutes; +it may have stopped from being frozen outside his pocket, or he may +have inadvertently touched the hands. Any way it makes one more chary +of leaving stores on this great plain, especially as the blizzard +tended to drift up our tracks. We could only just see the back track +when we started, but the light was extremely poor. + +_Wednesday, January_ 10.--Camp 62. T. -11°. Last depot 88° 29' S.; 159° +33' E.; Var. 180°. Terrible hard march in the morning; only covered 5.1 +miles (geo.). Decided to leave depot at lunch camp. Built cairn and +left one week's food together with sundry articles of clothing. We +are down as close as we can go in the latter. We go forward with +eighteen days' food. Yesterday I should have said certain to see us +through, but now the surface is beyond words, and if it continues we +shall have the greatest difficulty to keep our march long enough. The +surface is quite covered with sandy snow, and when the sun shines it +is terrible. During the early part of the afternoon it was overcast, +and we started our lightened sledge with a good swing, but during +the last two hours the sun cast shadows again, and the work was +distressingly hard. We have covered only 10.8 miles (geo.). + +Only 85 miles (geo.) from the Pole, but it's going to be a stiff +pull _both ways_ apparently; still we do make progress, which is +something. To-night the sky is overcast, the temperature (-11°) much +higher than I anticipated; it is very difficult to imagine what is +happening to the weather. The sastrugi grow more and more confused, +running from S. to E. Very difficult steering in uncertain light +and with rapidly moving clouds. The clouds don't seem to come from +anywhere, form and disperse without visible reason. The surface seems +to be growing softer. The meteorological conditions seem to point to an +area of variable light winds, and that plot will thicken as we advance. + +_Thursday, January_ 11.--Lunch. Height 10,540. T. -15° 8'. It was +heavy pulling from the beginning to-day, but for the first two and +a half hours we could keep the sledge moving; then the sun came out +(it had been overcast and snowing with light south-easterly breeze) +and the rest of the forenoon was agonising. I never had such pulling; +all the time the sledge rasps and creaks. We have covered 6 miles, +but at fearful cost to ourselves. + +Night camp 63. Height 10,530. Temp. -16.3°. Minimum -25.8°. Another +hard grind in the afternoon and five miles added. About 74 miles from +the Pole--can we keep this up for seven days? It takes it out of +us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work before. Cloud +has been coming and going overhead all day, drifting from the S.E., +but continually altering shape. Snow crystals falling all the time; +a very light S. breeze at start soon dying away. The sun so bright +and warm to-night that it is almost impossible to imagine a minus +temperature. The snow seems to get softer as we advance; the sastrugi, +though sometimes high and undercut, are not hard--no crusts, except +yesterday the surface subsided once, as on the Barrier. It seems +pretty certain there is no steady wind here. Our chance still holds +good if we can put the work in, but it's a terribly trying time. + +_Friday, January_ 12.--Camp 64. T. -17.5°. Lat. 88° 57'. Another heavy +march with snow getting softer all the time. Sun very bright, calm at +start; first two hours terribly slow. Lunch, 4 3/4 hours, 5.6 miles +geo.; Sight Lat. 88° 52'. Afternoon, 4 hours, 5.1 miles--total 10.7. + +In the afternoon we seemed to be going better; clouds spread over +from the west with light chill wind and for a few brief minutes we +tasted the delight of having the sledge following free. Alas! in a few +minutes it was worse than ever, in spite of the sun's eclipse. However, +the short experience was salutary. I had got to fear that we were +weakening badly in our pulling; those few minutes showed me that +we only want a good surface to get along as merrily as of old. With +the surface as it is, one gets horribly sick of the monotony and can +easily imagine oneself getting played out, were it not that at the +lunch and night camps one so quickly forgets all one's troubles and +bucks up for a fresh effort. It is an effort to keep up the double +figures, but if we can do so for another four marches we ought to +get through. It is going to be a close thing. + +At camping to-night everyone was chilled and we guessed a cold snap, +but to our surprise the actual temperature was higher than last +night, when we could dawdle in the sun. It is most unaccountable +why we should suddenly feel the cold in this manner; partly the +exhaustion of the march, but partly some damp quality in the air, I +think. Little Bowers is wonderful; in spite of my protest he _would_ +take sights after we had camped to-night, after marching in the soft +snow all day where we have been comparatively restful on ski. + +_Night position_.--Lat. 88° 57' 25'' S.; Long. 160° 21' E.; Var. 179° +49' W. Minimum T. -23.5°. + +Only 63 miles (geo.) from the Pole to-night. We ought to do the +trick, but oh! for a better surface. It is quite evident this is a +comparatively windless area. The sastrugi are few and far between, +and all soft. I should imagine occasional blizzards sweep up from +the S.E., but none with violence. We have deep tracks in the snow, +which is soft as deep as you like to dig down. + +_Saturday, January_ 13.--Lunch Height 10,390. Barometer low? lunch +Lat. 89° 3' 18''. Started on some soft snow, very heavy dragging and +went slow. We could have supposed nothing but that such conditions +would last from now onward, but to our surprise, after two hours +we came on a sea of sastrugi, all lying from S. to E., predominant +E.S.E. Have had a cold little wind from S.E. and S.S.E., where the sky +is overcast. Have done 5.6 miles and are now over the 89th parallel. + +Night camp 65.--Height 10,270. T. -22.5°, Minimum -23.5°. Lat. 89° +9'S. very nearly. We started very well in the afternoon. Thought we +were going to make a real good march, but after the first two hours +surface crystals became as sandy as ever. Still we did 5.6 miles geo., +giving over 11 for the day. Well, another day with double figures +and a bit over. The chance holds. + +It looks as though we were descending slightly; sastrugi remain as in +forenoon. It is wearisome work this tugging and straining to advance a +light sledge. Still, we get along. I did manage to get my thoughts off +the work for a time to-day, which is very restful. We should be in a +poor way without our ski, though Bowers manages to struggle through +the soft snow without tiring his short legs. + +Only 51 miles from the Pole to-night. If we don't get to it we +shall be d----d close. There is a little southerly breeze to-night; +I devoutly hope it may increase in force. The alternation of soft +snow and sastrugi seem to suggest that the coastal mountains are not +so very far away. + +_Sunday, January_ 14.--Camp 66. Lunch T. -18°, Night T. -15°. Sun +showing mistily through overcast sky all day. Bright southerly wind +with very low drift. In consequence the surface was a little better, +and we came along very steadily 6.3 miles in the morning and 5.5 in +the afternoon, but the steering was awfully difficult and trying; +very often I could see nothing, and Bowers on my shoulders directed +me. Under such circumstances it is an immense help to be pulling +on ski. To-night it is looking very thick. The sun can barely be +distinguished, the temperature has risen, and there are serious +indications of a blizzard. I trust they will not come to anything; +there are practically no signs of heavy wind here, so that even if +it blows a little we may be able to march. Meanwhile we are less than +40 miles from the Pole. + +Again we noticed the cold; at lunch to-day (Obs.: Lat. 89° 20' 53'' +S.) all our feet were cold, but this was mainly due to the bald state +of our finnesko. I put some grease under the bare skin and found +it made all the difference. Oates seems to be feeling the cold and +fatigue more than the rest of us, but we are all very fit. It is a +critical time, but we ought to pull through. The barometer has fallen +very considerably and we cannot tell whether due to ascent of plateau +or change of weather. Oh! for a few fine days! So close it seems and +only the weather to baulk us. + +_Monday, January_ 15.--Lunch camp, Height 9,950. Last depot. During +the night the air cleared entirely and the sun shone in a perfectly +clear sky. The light wind had dropped and the temperature fallen to +-25°, minimum -27°. I guessed this meant a hard pull, and guessed +right. The surface was terrible, but for 4 3/4 hours yielded 6 miles +(geo.). We were all pretty well done at camping, and here we leave our +last depot--only four days' food and a sundry or two. The load is now +very light, but I fear that the friction will not be greatly reduced. + +_Night, January_ 15.--Height 9920. T. -25°. The sledge came +surprisingly lightly after lunch--something from loss of weight, +something, I think, from stowage, and, most of all perhaps, as a +result of tea. Anyhow we made a capital afternoon march of 6.3 miles, +bringing the total for the day to over 12 (12.3). The sastrugi again +very confused, but mostly S.E. quadrant; the heaviest now almost east, +so that the sledge continually bumps over ridges. The wind is from +the W.N.W. chiefly, but the weather remains fine and there are no +sastrugi from that direction. + +Camp 67. Lunch obs.: Lat. 89° 26' 57''; Lat. dead reckoning, 89° 33' +15'' S.; Long. 160° 56' 45'' E.; Var. 179° E. + +It is wonderful to think that two long marches would land us at the +Pole. We left our depot to-day with nine days' provisions, so that it +ought to be a certain thing now, and the only appalling possibility +the sight of the Norwegian flag forestalling ours. Little Bowers +continues his indefatigable efforts to get good sights, and it is +wonderful how he works them up in his sleeping-bag in our congested +tent. (Minimum for night -27.5°.) Only 27 miles from the Pole. We +_ought_ to do it now. + +_Tuesday, January_ 16.--Camp 68. Height 9760. T. -23.5°. The worst +has happened, or nearly the worst. We marched well in the morning and +covered 7 1/2 miles. Noon sight showed us in Lat. 89° 42' S., and we +started off in high spirits in the afternoon, feeling that to-morrow +would see us at our destination. About the second hour of the March +Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn; he was uneasy +about it, but argued that it must be a sastrugus. Half an hour later +he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we knew that this could not be +a natural snow feature. We marched on, found that it was a black flag +tied to a sledge bearer; near by the remains of a camp; sledge tracks +and ski tracks going and coming and the clear trace of dogs' paws--many +dogs. This told us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled +us and are first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, +and I am very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and +much discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the Pole +and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All the day +dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. We are descending in +altitude--certainly also the Norwegians found an easy way up. + +_Wednesday, January_ 17.--Camp 69. T. -22° at start. Night -21°. The +Pole. Yes, but under very different circumstances from those +expected. We have had a horrible day--add to our disappointment a +head wind 4 to 5, with a temperature -22°, and companions labouring +on with cold feet and hands. + +We started at 7.30, none of us having slept much after the shock of our +discovery. We followed the Norwegian sledge tracks for some way; as far +as we make out there are only two men. In about three miles we passed +two small cairns. Then the weather overcast, and the tracks being +increasingly drifted up and obviously going too far to the west, we +decided to make straight for the Pole according to our calculations. At +12.30 Evans had such cold hands we camped for lunch--an excellent +'week-end one.' We had marched 7.4 miles. Lat. sight gave 89° 53' +37''. We started out and did 6 1/2 miles due south. To-night little +Bowers is laying himself out to get sights in terrible difficult +circumstances; the wind is blowing hard, T. -21°, and there is that +curious damp, cold feeling in the air which chills one to the bone in +no time. We have been descending again, I think, but there looks to be +a rise ahead; otherwise there is very little that is different from +the awful monotony of past days. Great God! this is an awful place +and terrible enough for us to have laboured to it without the reward +of priority. Well, it is something to have got here, and the wind +may be our friend to-morrow. We have had a fat Polar hoosh in spite +of our chagrin, and feel comfortable inside--added a small stick of +chocolate and the queer taste of a cigarette brought by Wilson. Now +for the run home and a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it. + +_Thursday morning, January_ 18.--Decided after summing up all +observations that we were 3.5 miles away from the Pole--one mile +beyond it and 3 to the right. More or less in this direction Bowers +saw a cairn or tent. + +We have just arrived at this tent, 2 miles from our camp, therefore +about 1 1/2 miles from the Pole. In the tent we find a record of five +Norwegians having been here, as follows: + + + Roald Amundsen + Olav Olavson Bjaaland + Hilmer Hanssen + Sverre H. Hassel + Oscar Wisting. + + 16 Dec. 1911. + +The tent is fine--a small compact affair supported by a single +bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward a +letter to King Haakon! + +The following articles have been left in the tent: 3 half bags of +reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mits and sleeping +socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian artificial +horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point thermometers, a sextant +and hypsometer of English make. + +Left a note to say I had visited the tent with companions. Bowers +photographing and Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched +6.2 miles S.S.E. by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch +gave us 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the Pole +Camp. (Temp. Lunch -21°.) We built a cairn, put up our poor slighted +Union Jack, and photographed ourselves--mighty cold work all of +it--less than 1/2 a mile south we saw stuck up an old underrunner +of a sledge. This we commandeered as a yard for a floorcloth sail. I +imagine it was intended to mark the exact spot of the Pole as near as +the Norwegians could fix it. (Height 9500.) A note attached talked of +the tent as being 2 miles from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note. There +is no doubt that our predecessors have made thoroughly sure of their +mark and fully carried out their programme. I think the Pole is about +9500 feet in height; this is remarkable, considering that in Lat. 88° +we were about 10,500. We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile +north with us and left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix +it. I fancy the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and +left on the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, +viz. Dec. 22. It looks as though the Norwegian party expected colder +weather on the summit than they got; it could scarcely be otherwise +from Shackleton's account. Well, we have turned our back now on the +goal of our ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging--and +good-bye to most of the daydreams! + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +The Return from the Pole + +_Friday, January_ 19.--Lunch 8.1, T. -22.6°. Early in the march we +picked up a Norwegian cairn and our outward tracks. We followed +these to the ominous black flag which had first apprised us of +our predecessors' success. We have picked this flag up, using the +staff for our sail, and are now camped about 1 1/2 miles further +back on our tracks. So that is the last of the Norwegians for the +present. The surface undulates considerably about this latitude; +it was more evident to-day than when we were outward bound. + +Night camp R. 2. [37] Height 9700. T. -18.5°, Minimum -25.6°. Came +along well this afternoon for three hours, then a rather dreary finish +for the last 1 1/2. Weather very curious, snow clouds, looking very +dense and spoiling the light, pass overhead from the S., dropping +very minute crystals; between showers the sun shows and the wind goes +to the S.W. The fine crystals absolutely spoil the surface; we had +heavy dragging during the last hour in spite of the light load and a +full sail. Our old tracks are drifted up, deep in places, and toothed +sastrugi have formed over them. It looks as though this sandy snow +was drifted about like sand from place to place. How account for the +present state of our three day old tracks and the month old ones of +the Norwegians? + +It is warmer and pleasanter marching with the wind, but I'm not sure +we don't feel the cold more when we stop and camp than we did on the +outward march. We pick up our cairns easily, and ought to do so right +through, I think; but, of course, one will be a bit anxious till the +Three Degree Depot is reached. [38] I'm afraid the return journey is +going to be dreadfully tiring and monotonous. + +_Saturday, January 20._--Lunch camp, 9810. We have come along very +well this morning, although the surface was terrible bad--9.3 miles +in 5 hours 20 m. This has brought us to our Southern Depot, and we +pick up 4 days' food. We carry on 7 days from to-night with 55 miles +to go to the Half Degree Depot made on January 10. The same sort of +weather and a little more wind, sail drawing well. + +Night Camp R. 3. 9860. Temp. -18°. It was blowing quite hard and +drifting when we started our afternoon march. At first with full sail +we went along at a great rate; then we got on to an extraordinary +surface, the drifting snow lying in heaps; it clung to the ski, which +could only be pushed forward with an effort. The pulling was really +awful, but we went steadily on and camped a short way beyond our cairn +of the 14th. I'm afraid we are in for a bad pull again to-morrow, +luckily the wind holds. I shall be very glad when Bowers gets his +ski; I'm afraid he must find these long marches very trying with +short legs, but he is an undefeated little sportsman. I think Oates +is feeling the cold and fatigue more than most of us. It is blowing +pretty hard to-night, but with a good march we have earned one good +hoosh and are very comfortable in the tent. It is everything now to +keep up a good marching pace; I trust we shall be able to do so and +catch the ship. Total march, 18 1/2 miles. + +_Sunday, January_ 21.--R. 4. 10,010. Temp, blizzard, -18° to -11°, +to -14° now. Awoke to a stiff blizzard; air very thick with snow +and sun very dim. We decided not to march owing to likelihood of +losing track; expected at least a day of lay up, but whilst at lunch +there was a sudden clearance and wind dropped to light breeze. We +got ready to march, but gear was so iced up we did not get away till +3.45. Marched till 7.40--a terribly weary four-hour drag; even with +helping wind we only did 5 1/2 miles (6 1/4 statute). The surface bad, +horribly bad on new sastrugi, and decidedly rising again in elevation. + +We are going to have a pretty hard time this next 100 miles I +expect. If it was difficult to drag downhill over this belt, it +will probably be a good deal more difficult to drag up. Luckily the +cracks are fairly distinct, though we only see our cairns when less +than a mile away; 45 miles to the next depot and 6 days' food in +hand--then pick up 7 days' food (T. -22°) and 90 miles to go to the +'Three Degree' Depot. Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought +to have a day or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty with +following the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight for our +watches to-morrow we shall be independent of the tracks at a pinch. + +_Monday, January_ 22.--10,000. Temp. -21°. I think about the most +tiring march we have had; solid pulling the whole way, in spite of +the light sledge and some little helping wind at first. Then in the +last part of the afternoon the sun came out, and almost immediately +we had the whole surface covered with soft snow. + +We got away sharp at 8 and marched a solid 9 hours, and thus we have +covered 14.5 miles (geo.) but, by Jove! it has been a grind. We +are just about on the 89th parallel. To-night Bowers got a rating +sight. I'm afraid we have passed out of the wind area. We are within +2 1/2 miles of the 64th camp cairn, 30 miles from our depot, and with +5 days' food in hand. Ski boots are beginning to show signs of wear; +I trust we shall have no giving out of ski or boots, since there are +yet so many miles to go. I thought we were climbing to-day, but the +barometer gives no change. + +_Tuesday, January_ 23.--Lowest Minimum last night -30°, Temp, at +start -28°. Lunch height 10,100. Temp, with wind 6 to 7, -19°. Little +wind and heavy marching at start. Then wind increased and we did 8.7 +miles by lunch, when it was practically blowing a blizzard. The old +tracks show so remarkably well that we can follow them without much +difficulty--a great piece of luck. + +In the afternoon we had to reorganise. Could carry a whole sail. Bowers +hung on to the sledge, Evans and Oates had to lengthen out. We came +along at a great rate and should have got within an easy march of +our depot had not Wilson suddenly discovered that Evans' nose was +frostbitten--it was white and hard. We thought it best to camp at +6.45. Got the tent up with some difficulty, and now pretty cosy after +good hoosh. + +There is no doubt Evans is a good deal run down--his fingers are badly +blistered and his nose is rather seriously congested with frequent +frost bites. He is very much annoyed with himself, which is not a good +sign. I think Wilson, Bowers and I are as fit as possible under the +circumstances. Oates gets cold feet. One way and another, I shall be +glad to get off the summit! We are only about 13 miles from our 'Degree +and half' Depôt and should get there to-morrow. The weather seems to +be breaking up. Pray God we have something of a track to follow to +the Three Degree Depôt--once we pick that up we ought to be right. + +_Wednesday, January_ 24.--Lunch Temp. -8°. Things beginning to look a +little serious. A strong wind at the start has developed into a full +blizzard at lunch, and we have had to get into our sleeping-bags. It +was a bad march, but we covered 7 miles. At first Evans, and then +Wilson went ahead to scout for tracks. Bowers guided the sledge alone +for the first hour, then both Oates and he remained alongside it; +they had a fearful time trying to make the pace between the soft +patches. At 12.30 the sun coming ahead made it impossible to see +the tracks further, and we had to stop. By this time the gale was +at its height and we had the dickens of a time getting up the tent, +cold fingers all round. We are only 7 miles from our depot, but I +made sure we should be there to-night. This is the second full gale +since we left the Pole. I don't like the look of it. Is the weather +breaking up? If so, God help us, with the tremendous summit journey +and scant food. Wilson and Bowers are my standby. I don't like the +easy way in which Oates and Evans get frostbitten. + +_Thursday, January_ 25.--Temp. Lunch -11°, Temp. night -16°. Thank +God we found our Half Degree Depôt. After lying in our bags yesterday +afternoon and all night, we debated breakfast; decided to have it +later and go without lunch. At the time the gale seemed as bad as +ever, but during breakfast the sun showed and there was light enough +to see the old track. It was a long and terribly cold job digging out +our sledge and breaking camp, but we got through and on the march +without sail, all pulling. This was about 11, and at about 2.30, +to our joy, we saw the red depôt flag. We had lunch and left with 9 +1/2 days' provisions, still following the track--marched till 8 and +covered over 5 miles, over 12 in the day. Only 89 miles (geogr.) to +the next depot, but it's time we cleared off this plateau. We are +not without ailments: Oates suffers from a very cold foot; Evans' +fingers and nose are in a bad state, and to-night Wilson is suffering +tortures from his eyes. Bowers and I are the only members of the party +without troubles just at present. The weather still looks unsettled, +and I fear a succession of blizzards at this time of year; the wind is +strong from the south, and this afternoon has been very helpful with +the full sail. Needless to say I shall sleep much better with our +provision bag full again. The only real anxiety now is the finding +of the Three Degree Depot. The tracks seem as good as ever so far, +sometimes for 30 or 40 yards we lose them under drifts, but then they +reappear quite clearly raised above the surface. If the light is good +there is not the least difficulty in following. Blizzards are our +bugbear, not only stopping our marches, but the cold damp air takes it +out of us. Bowers got another rating sight to-night--it was wonderful +how he managed to observe in such a horribly cold wind. He has been +on ski to-day whilst Wilson walked by the sledge or pulled ahead of it. + +_Friday, January_ 26.--Temp. -17°. Height 9700, must be high +barometer. Started late, 8.50--for no reason, as I called the hands +rather early. We must have fewer delays. There was a good stiff breeze +and plenty of drift, but the tracks held. To our old blizzard camp +of the 7th we got on well, 7 miles. But beyond the camp we found the +tracks completely wiped out. We searched for some time, then marched +on a short way and lunched, the weather gradually clearing, though the +wind holding. Knowing there were two cairns at four mile intervals, +we had little anxiety till we picked up the first far on our right, +then steering right by a stroke of fortune, and Bowers' sharp eyes +caught a glimpse of the second far on the left. Evidently we made a bad +course outward at this part. There is not a sign of our tracks between +these cairns, but the last, marking our night camp of the 6th, No. 59, +is in the belt of hard sastrugi, and I was comforted to see signs of +the track reappearing as we camped. I hope to goodness we can follow it +to-morrow. We marched 16 miles (geo.) to-day, but made good only 15.4. + +Saturday, January 27.--R. 10. Temp. -16° (lunch), -14.3° +(evening). Minimum -19°. Height 9900. Barometer low? Called the hands +half an hour late, but we got away in good time. The forenoon march +was over the belt of storm-tossed sastrugi; it looked like a rough +sea. Wilson and I pulled in front on ski, the remainder on foot. It +was very tricky work following the track, which pretty constantly +disappeared, and in fact only showed itself by faint signs anywhere--a +foot or two of raised sledge-track, a dozen yards of the trail of +the sledge-meter wheel, or a spatter of hard snow-flicks where feet +had trodden. Sometimes none of these were distinct, but one got an +impression of lines which guided. The trouble was that on the outward +track one had to shape course constantly to avoid the heaviest mounds, +and consequently there were many zig-zags. We lost a good deal over a +mile by these halts, in which we unharnessed and went on the search +for signs. However, by hook or crook, we managed to stick on the +old track. Came on the cairn quite suddenly, marched past it, and +camped for lunch at 7 miles. In the afternoon the sastrugi gradually +diminished in size and now we are on fairly level ground to-day, the +obstruction practically at an end, and, to our joy, the tracks showing +up much plainer again. For the last two hours we had no difficulty at +all in following them. There has been a nice helpful southerly breeze +all day, a clear sky and comparatively warm temperature. The air is +dry again, so that tents and equipment are gradually losing their +icy condition imposed by the blizzard conditions of the past week. + +Our sleeping-bags are slowly but surely getting wetter and I'm afraid +it will take a lot of this weather to put them right. However, we +all sleep well enough in them, the hours allowed being now on the +short side. We are slowly getting more hungry, and it would be an +advantage to have a little more food, especially for lunch. If we get +to the next depôt in a few marches (it is now less than 60 miles and +we have a full week's food) we ought to be able to open out a little, +but we can't look for a real feed till we get to the pony food depot. A +long way to go, and, by Jove, this is tremendous labour. + +_Sunday, January_ 28.--Lunch, -20°. Height, night, +10,130. R. 11. Supper Temp. -18°. Little wind and heavy going in +forenoon. We just ran out 8 miles in 5 hours and added another 8 +in 3 hours 40 mins. in the afternoon with a good wind and better +surface. It is very difficult to say if we are going up or down hill; +the barometer is quite different from outward readings. We are 43 +miles from the depot, with six days' food in hand. We are camped +opposite our lunch cairn of the 4th, only half a day's march from +the point at which the last supporting party left us. + +Three articles were dropped on our outward march--(Oates' pipe, Bowers' +fur mits, and Evans' night boots. We picked up the boots and mits on +the track, and to-night we found the pipe lying placidly in sight on +the snow. The sledge tracks were very easy to follow to-day; they +are becoming more and more raised, giving a good line shadow often +visible half a mile ahead. If this goes on and the weather holds we +shall get our depôt without trouble. I shall indeed be glad to get it +on the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is no doubt. The lunch +meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are pretty thin, especially +Evans, but none of us are feeling worked out. I doubt if we could +drag heavy loads, but we can keep going well with our light one. We +talk of food a good deal more, and shall be glad to open out on it. + +_Monday, January_ 29.--R. 12. Lunch Temp. -23°. Supper +Temp. -25°. Height 10,000. Excellent march of 19 1/2 miles, 10.5 +before lunch. Wind helping greatly, considerable drift; tracks for the +most part very plain. Some time before lunch we picked up the return +track of the supporting party, so that there are now three distinct +sledge impressions. We are only 24 miles from our depôt--an easy day +and a half. Given a fine day to-morrow we ought to get it without +difficulty. The wind and sastrugi are S.S.E. and S.E. If the weather +holds we ought to do the rest of the inland ice journey in little over +a week. The surface is very much altered since we passed out. The loose +snow has been swept into heaps, hard and wind-tossed. The rest has +a glazed appearance, the loose drifting snow no doubt acting on it, +polishing it like a sand blast. The sledge with our good wind behind +runs splendidly on it; it is all soft and sandy beneath the glaze. We +are certainly getting hungrier every day. The day after to-morrow we +should be able to increase allowances. It is monotonous work, but, +thank God, the miles are coming fast at last. We ought not to be +delayed much now with the down-grade in front of us. + +_Tuesday, January_ 30.--R. 13. 9860. Lunch Temp.-25°, Supper +Temp. -24.5°. Thank the Lord, another fine march--19 miles. We have +passed the last cairn before the depôt, the track is clear ahead, +the weather fair, the wind helpful, the gradient down--with any luck +we should pick up our depôt in the middle of the morning march. This +is the bright side; the reverse of the medal is serious. Wilson +has strained a tendon in his leg; it has given pain all day and is +swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of pluck over it, but I don't +like the idea of such an accident here. To add to the trouble Evans +has dislodged two finger-nails to-night; his hands are really bad, +and to my surprise he shows signs of losing heart over it. He hasn't +been cheerful since the accident. The wind shifted from S.E. to S. and +back again all day, but luckily it keeps strong. We can get along with +bad fingers, but it (will be) a mighty serious thing if Wilson's leg +doesn't improve. + +_Wednesday, January_ 31.--9800. Lunch Temp. -20°, Supper +Temp. -20°. The day opened fine with a fair breeze; we marched on the +depôt, [39] picked it up, and lunched an hour later. In the afternoon +the surface became fearfully bad, the wind dropped to light southerly +air. Ill luck that this should happen just when we have only four men +to pull. Wilson rested his leg as much as possible by walking quietly +beside the sledge; the result has been good, and to-night there +is much less inflammation. I hope he will be all right again soon, +but it is trying to have an injured limb in the party. I see we had a +very heavy surface here on our outward march. There is no doubt we are +travelling over undulations, but the inequality of level does not make +a great difference to our pace; it is the sandy crystals that hold us +up. There has been very great alteration of the surface since we were +last here--the sledge tracks stand high. This afternoon we picked up +Bowers' ski [40]--the last thing we have to find on the summit, thank +Heaven! Now we have only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds. + +_Thursday, February_ 1.--R. 15. 9778. Lunch Temp. -20°, Supper +Temp. -19.8°. Heavy collar work most of the day. Wind light. Did 8 +miles, 4 3/4 hours. Started well in the afternoon and came down a +steep slope in quick time; then the surface turned real bad--sandy +drifts--very heavy pulling. Working on past 8 P.M. we just fetched +a lunch cairn of December 29, when we were only a week out from the +depôt. [41] It ought to be easy to get in with a margin, having 8 days' +food in hand (full feeding). We have opened out on the 1/7th increase +and it makes a lot of difference. Wilson's leg much better. Evans' +fingers now very bad, two nails coming off, blisters burst. + +_Friday, February_ 2.--9340. R. 16. Temp.: Lunch -19°, Supper -17°. We +started well on a strong southerly wind. Soon got to a steep grade, +when the sledge overran and upset us one after another. We got +off our ski, and pulling on foot reeled off 9 miles by lunch at +1.30. Started in the afternoon on foot, going very strong. We noticed +a curious circumstance towards the end of the forenoon. The tracks +were drifted over, but the drifts formed a sort of causeway along +which we pulled. In the afternoon we soon came to a steep slope--the +same on which we exchanged sledges on December 28. All went well +till, in trying to keep the track at the same time as my feet, on a +very slippery surface, I came an awful 'purler' on my shoulder. It is +horribly sore to-night and another sick person added to our tent--three +out of fine injured, and the most troublesome surfaces to come. We +shall be lucky if we get through without serious injury. Wilson's +leg is better, but might easily get bad again, and Evans' fingers. + +At the bottom of the slope this afternoon we came on a confused sea +of sastrugi. We lost the track. Later, on soft snow, we picked up +E. Evans' return track, which we are now following. We have managed +to get off 17 miles. The extra food is certainly helping us, but we +are getting pretty hungry. The weather is already a trifle warmer and +the altitude lower, and only 80 miles or so to Mount Darwin. It is +time we were off the summit--Pray God another four days will see us +pretty well clear of it. Our bags are getting very wet and we ought +to have more sleep. + +_Saturday, February_ 3.--R. 17. Temp.: Lunch -20°; Supper -20°. Height +9040 feet. Started pretty well on foot; came to steep slope with +crevasses (few). I went on ski to avoid another fall, and we took the +slope gently with our sail, constantly losing the track, but picked +up a much weathered cairn on our right. Vexatious delays, searching +for tracks, &c., reduced morning march to 8.1 miles. Afternoon, came +along a little better, but again lost tracks on hard slope. To-night +we are near camp of December 26, but cannot see cairn. Have decided +it is waste of time looking for tracks and cairn, and shall push on +due north as fast as we can. + +The surface is greatly changed since we passed outward, in most +places polished smooth, but with heaps of new toothed sastrugi which +are disagreeable obstacles. Evans' fingers are going on as well as +can be expected, but it will be long before he will be able to help +properly with the work. Wilson's leg much better, and my shoulder also, +though it gives bad twinges. The extra food is doing us all good, but +we ought to have more sleep. Very few more days on the plateau I hope. + +_Sunday, February_ 4.--R. 18. 8620 feet. Temp.: Lunch -22°; Supper +-23°. Pulled on foot in the morning over good hard surface and +covered 9.7 miles. Just before lunch unexpectedly fell into crevasses, +Evans and I together--a second fall for Evans, and I camped. After +lunch saw disturbance ahead, and what I took for disturbance (land) +to the right. We went on ski over hard shiny descending surface. Did +very well, especially towards end of march, covering in all 18.1. We +have come down some hundreds of feet. Half way in the march the land +showed up splendidly, and I decided to make straight for Mt. Darwin, +which we are rounding. Every sign points to getting away off this +plateau. The temperature is 20° lower than when we were here before; +the party is not improving in condition, especially Evans, who is +becoming rather dull and incapable. [42] Thank the Lord we have +good food at each meal, but we get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers +is splendid, full of energy and bustle all the time. I hope we are +not going to have trouble with ice-falls. + +_Monday, February_ 5.--R. 19. Lunch, 8320 ft., Temp. -17°; Supper, +8120 ft, Temp.-17.2°. A good forenoon, few crevasses; we covered 10.2 +miles. In the afternoon we soon got into difficulties. We saw the +land very clearly, but the difficulty is to get at it. An hour after +starting we came on huge pressures and great street crevasses partly +open. We had to steer more and more to the west, so that our course +was very erratic. Late in the march we turned more to the north and +again encountered open crevasses across our track. It is very difficult +manoeuvring amongst these and I should not like to do it without ski. + +We are camped in a very disturbed region, but the wind has fallen +very light here, and our camp is comfortable for the first time for +many weeks. We may be anything from 25 to 30 miles from our depot, +but I wish to goodness we could see a way through the disturbances +ahead. Our faces are much cut up by all the winds we have had, mine +least of all; the others tell me they feel their noses more going with +than against the wind. Evans' nose is almost as bad as his fingers. He +is a good deal crocked up. + +_Tuesday, February_ 6.--Lunch 7900; Supper 7210. Temp. -15°. We've +had a horrid day and not covered good mileage. On turning out found +sky overcast; a beastly position amidst crevasses. Luckily it cleared +just before we started. We went straight for Mt. Darwin, but in half +an hour found ourselves amongst huge open chasms, unbridged, but not +very deep, I think. We turned to the north between two, but to our +chagrin they converged into chaotic disturbance. We had to retrace +our steps for a mile or so, then struck to the west and got on to +a confused sea of sastrugi, pulling very hard; we put up the sail, +Evans' nose suffered, Wilson very cold, everything horrid. Camped +for lunch in the sastrugi; the only comfort, things looked clearer +to the west and we were obviously going downhill. In the afternoon we +struggled on, got out of sastrugi and turned over on glazed surface, +crossing many crevasses--very easy work on ski. Towards the end of +the march we realised the certainty of maintaining a more or less +straight course to the depot, and estimate distance 10 to 15 miles. + +Food is low and weather uncertain, so that many hours of the day +were anxious; but this evening, though we are not as far advanced as +I expected, the outlook is much more promising. Evans is the chief +anxiety now; his cuts and wounds suppurate, his nose looks very bad, +and altogether he shows considerable signs of being played out. Things +may mend for him on the glacier, and his wounds get some respite under +warmer conditions. I am indeed glad to think we shall so soon have +done with plateau conditions. It took us 27 days to reach the Pole +and 21 days back--in all 48 days--nearly 7 weeks in low temperature +with almost incessant wind. + + +End of the Summit Journey + +_Wednesday, February 7_.--Mount Darwin [or Upper Glacier] Depot, +R. 21. Height 7100. Lunch Temp. -9°; Supper Temp, [a blank here]. A +wretched day with satisfactory ending. First panic, certainty that +biscuit-box was short. Great doubt as to how this has come about, +as we certainly haven't over-issued allowances. Bowers is dreadfully +disturbed about it. The shortage is a full day's allowance. We started +our march at 8.30, and travelled down slopes and over terraces covered +with hard sastrugi--very tiresome work--and the land didn't seem to +come any nearer. At lunch the wind increased, and what with hot tea +and good food, we started the afternoon in a better frame of mind, +and it soon became obvious we were nearing our mark. Soon after 6.30 +we saw our depot easily and camped next it at 7.30. + +Found note from Evans to say the second return party passed through +safely at 2.30 on January 14--half a day longer between depots than +we have been. The temperature is higher, but there is a cold wind +to-night. + +Well, we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp journey and most of +us are fit, but I think another week might have had a very bad effect +on Evans, who is going steadily downhill. + +It is satisfactory to recall that these facts give absolute proof of +both expeditions having reached the Pole and placed the question of +priority beyond discussion. + +_Thursday, February_ 8.--R. 22. Height 6260. Start Temp. -11°; Lunch +Temp. -5°; Supper, zero. 9.2 miles. Started from the depot rather +late owing to weighing biscuit, &c., and rearranging matters. Had a +beastly morning. Wind very strong and cold. Steered in for Mt. Darwin +to visit rock. Sent Bowers on, on ski, as Wilson can't wear his at +present. He obtained several specimens, all of much the same type, +a close-grained granite rock which weathers red. Hence the pink +limestone. After he rejoined we skidded downhill pretty fast, leaders +on ski, Oates and Wilson on foot alongside sledge--Evans detached. We +lunched at 2 well down towards Mt. Buckley, the wind half a gale and +everybody very cold and cheerless. However, better things were to +follow. We decided to steer for the moraine under Mt. Buckley and, +pulling with crampons, we crossed some very irregular steep slopes +with big crevasses and slid down towards the rocks. The moraine was +obviously so interesting that when we had advanced some miles and +got out of the wind, I decided to camp and spend the rest of the day +geologising. It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves +under perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly +and carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with his +sharp eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last a piece of +coal with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also some excellently +preserved impressions of thick stems, showing cellular structure. In +one place we saw the cast of small waves on the sand. To-night Bill +has got a specimen of limestone with archeo-cyathus--the trouble is +one cannot imagine where the stone comes from; it is evidently rare, +as few specimens occur in the moraine. There is a good deal of pure +white quartz. Altogether we have had a most interesting afternoon, +and the relief of being out of the wind and in a warmer temperature +is inexpressible. I hope and trust we shall all buck up again now +that the conditions are more favourable. We have been in shadow all +the afternoon, but the sun has just reached us, a little obscured by +night haze. A lot could be written on the delight of setting foot on +rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice and nearly 7 out of sight of aught +else. It is like going ashore after a sea voyage. We deserve a little +good bright weather after all our trials, and hope to get a chance +to dry our sleeping-bags and generally make our gear more comfortable. + +_Friday, February 9_.--R. 23. Height 5,210 ft. Lunch Temp. +10°; +Supper Temp. +12.5°. About 13 miles. Kept along the edge of moraine +to the end of Mt. Buckley. Stopped and geologised. Wilson got great +find of vegetable impression in piece of limestone. Too tired to write +geological notes. We all felt very slack this morning, partly rise of +temperature, partly reaction, no doubt. Ought to have kept close in +to glacier north of Mt. Buckley, but in bad light the descent looked +steep and we kept out. Evidently we got amongst bad ice pressure and +had to come down over an ice-fall. The crevasses were much firmer +than expected and we got down with some difficulty, found our night +camp of December 20, and lunched an hour after. Did pretty well in +the afternoon, marching 3 3/4 hours; the sledge-meter is unshipped, +so cannot tell distance traversed. Very warm on march and we are +all pretty tired. To-night it is wonderfully calm and warm, though +it has been overcast all the afternoon. It is remarkable to be able +to stand outside the tent and sun oneself. Our food satisfies now, +but we must march to keep in the full ration, and we want rest, +yet we shall pull through all right, D.V. We are by no means worn out. + +_Saturday, February_ 10.--R. 24. Lunch Temp. +12°; Supper +Temp. +10°. Got off a good morning march in spite of keeping too +far east and getting in rough, cracked ice. Had a splendid night +sleep, showing great change in all faces, so didn't get away till +10 A.M. Lunched just before 3. After lunch the land began to be +obscured. We held a course for 2 1/2 hours with difficulty, then +the sun disappeared, and snow drove in our faces with northerly +wind--very warm and impossible to steer, so camped. After supper, +still very thick all round, but sun showing and less snow falling. The +fallen snow crystals are quite feathery like thistledown. We have +two full days' food left, and though our position is uncertain, +we are certainly within two outward marches from the middle glacier +depot. However, if the weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must +either march blindly on or reduce food. It is very trying. Another +night to make up arrears of sleep. The ice crystals that first fell +this afternoon were very large. Now the sky is clearer overhead, +the temperature has fallen slightly, and the crystals are minute. + +_Sunday, February_ 11.--R. 25. Lunch Temp. -6.5°; Supper -3.5°. The +worst day we have had during the trip and greatly owing to our +own fault. We started on a wretched surface with light S.W. wind, +sail set, and pulling on ski--horrible light, which made everything +look fantastic. As we went on light got worse, and suddenly we found +ourselves in pressure. Then came the fatal decision to steer east. We +went on for 6 hours, hoping to do a good distance, which in fact +I suppose we did, but for the last hour or two we pressed on into +a regular trap. Getting on to a good surface we did not reduce our +lunch meal, and thought all going well, but half an hour after lunch +we got into the worst ice mess I have ever been in. For three hours +we plunged on on ski, first thinking we were too much to the right, +then too much to the left; meanwhile the disturbance got worse and my +spirits received a very rude shock. There were times when it seemed +almost impossible to find a way out of the awful turmoil in which we +found ourselves. At length, arguing that there must be a way on our +left, we plunged in that direction. It got worse, harder, more icy +and crevassed. We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling +into crevasses every minute--most luckily no bad accident. At length +we saw a smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but knew it +was a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in character, +irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms, closely packed +and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy work, but we had grown +desperate. We won through at 10 P.M. and I write after 12 hours on the +march. I _think_ we are on or about the right track now, but we are +still a good number of miles from the depôt, so we reduced rations +to-night. We had three pemmican meals left and decided to make them +into four. To-morrow's lunch must serve for two if we do not make big +progress. It was a test of our endurance on the march and our fitness +with small supper. We have come through well. A good wind has come +down the glacier which is clearing the sky and surface. Pray God the +wind holds to-morrow. Short sleep to-night and off first thing, I hope. + +_Monday, February_ 12.--R. 26. In a very critical situation. All +went well in the forenoon, and we did a good long march over a fair +surface. Two hours before lunch we were cheered by the sight of our +night camp of the 18th December, the day after we made our depôt--this +showed we were on the right track. In the afternoon, refreshed by tea, +we went forward, confident of covering the remaining distance, but by +a fatal chance we kept too far to the left, and then we struck uphill +and, tired and despondent, arrived in a horrid maze of crevasses and +fissures. Divided councils caused our course to be erratic after this, +and finally, at 9 P.M. we landed in the worst place of all. After +discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a very short +supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag; the depot doubtful +in locality. We must get there to-morrow. Meanwhile we are cheerful +with an effort. It's a tight place, but luckily we've been well fed +up to the present. Pray God we have fine weather to-morrow. + +[At this point the bearings of the mid-glacier depôt are given, +but need not be quoted.] + +_Tuesday, February_ 13.--Camp R. 27, beside +Cloudmaker. Temp. -10°. Last night we all slept well in spite of +our grave anxieties. For my part these were increased by my visits +outside the tent, when I saw the sky gradually closing over and snow +beginning to fall. By our ordinary time for getting up it was dense +all around us. We could see nothing, and we could only remain in our +sleeping-bags. At 8.30 I dimly made out the land of the Cloudmaker. At +9 we got up, deciding to have tea, and with one biscuit, no pemmican, +so as to leave our scanty remaining meal for eventualities. We started +marching, and at first had to wind our way through an awful turmoil +of broken ice, but in about an hour we hit an old moraine track, +brown with dirt. Here the surface was much smoother and improved +rapidly. The fog still hung over all and we went on for an hour, +checking our bearings. Then the whole place got smoother and we turned +outward a little. Evans raised our hopes with a shout of depot ahead, +but it proved to be a shadow on the ice. Then suddenly Wilson saw +the actual depot flag. It was an immense relief, and we were soon in +possession of our 3 1/2 days' food. The relief to all is inexpressible; +needless to say, we camped and had a meal. + +Marching in the afternoon, I kept more to the left, and closed the +mountain till we fell on the stone moraines. Here Wilson detached +himself and made a collection, whilst we pulled the sledge on. We +camped late, abreast the lower end of the mountain, and had nearly +our usual satisfying supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of +the trip and gave a horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are right +up, we must march. In future food must be worked so that we do not +run so short if the weather fails us. We mustn't get into a hole like +this again. Greatly relieved to find that both the other parties got +through safely. Evans seems to have got mixed up with pressures like +ourselves. It promises to be a very fine day to-morrow. The valley is +gradually clearing. Bowers has had a very bad attack of snow blindness, +and Wilson another almost as bad. Evans has no power to assist with +camping work. + +_Wednesday, February_ 14.--Lunch Temp. 0°; Supper Temp. -1°. A +fine day with wind on and off down the glacier, and we have done a +fairly good march. We started a little late and pulled on down the +moraine. At first I thought of going right, but soon, luckily, changed +my mind and decided to follow the curving lines of the moraines. This +course has brought us well out on the glacier. Started on crampons; +one hour after, hoisted sail; the combined efforts produced only slow +speed, partly due to the sandy snowdrifts similar to those on summit, +partly to our torn sledge runners. At lunch these were scraped and +sand-papered. After lunch we got on snow, with ice only occasionally +showing through. A poor start, but the gradient and wind improving, +we did 6 1/2 miles before night camp. + +There is no getting away from the fact that we are not going +strong. Probably none of us: Wilson's leg still troubles him and he +doesn't like to trust himself on ski; but the worst case is Evans, +who is giving us serious anxiety. This morning he suddenly disclosed +a huge blister on his foot. It delayed us on the march, when he had +to have his crampon readjusted. Sometimes I fear he is going from bad +to worse, but I trust he will pick up again when we come to steady +work on ski like this afternoon. He is hungry and so is Wilson. We +can't risk opening out our food again, and as cook at present I am +serving something under full allowance. We are inclined to get slack +and slow with our camping arrangements, and small delays increase. I +have talked of the matter to-night and hope for improvement. We +cannot do distance without the ponies. The next depot [43] some 30 +miles away and nearly 3 days' food in hand. + +_Thursday, February_ 15.--R. 29. Lunch Temp. -10°; Supper +Temp. -4°. 13.5 miles. Again we are running short of provision. We +don't know our distance from the depot, but imagine about 20 +miles. Heavy march--did 13 3/4 (geo.). We are pulling for food +and not very strong evidently. In the afternoon it was overcast; +land blotted out for a considerable interval. We have reduced food, +also sleep; feeling rather done. Trust 1 1/2 days or 2 at most will +see us at depot. + +_Friday, February_ 16.--12.5 m. Lunch Temp.-6.1°; Supper Temp. -7°. A +rather trying position. Evans has nearly broken down in brain, +we think. He is absolutely changed from his normal self-reliant +self. This morning and this afternoon he stopped the march on some +trivial excuse. We are on short rations with not very short food; +spin out till to-morrow night. We cannot be more than 10 or 12 miles +from the depot, but the weather is all against us. After lunch we were +enveloped in a snow sheet, land just looming. Memory should hold the +events of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead. Perhaps +all will be well if we can get to our depot to-morrow fairly early, +but it is anxious work with the sick man. But it's no use meeting +troubles half way, and our sleep is all too short to write more. + +_Saturday, February_ 17.--A very terrible day. Evans looked a little +better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did, that he was +quite well. He started in his place on the traces, but half an hour +later worked his ski shoes adrift, and had to leave the sledge. The +surface was awful, the soft recently fallen snow clogging the ski +and runners at every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, +and the land hazy. We stopped after about one hour, and Evans came up +again, but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again on the +same plea. He asked Bowers to lend him a piece of string. I cautioned +him to come on as quickly as he could, and he answered cheerfully as +I thought. We had to push on, and the remainder of us were forced to +pull very hard, sweating heavily. Abreast the Monument Rock we stopped, +and seeing Evans a long way astern, I camped for lunch. There was no +alarm at first, and we prepared tea and our own meal, consuming the +latter. After lunch, and Evans still not appearing, we looked out, +to see him still afar off. By this time we were alarmed, and all four +started back on ski. I was first to reach the poor man and shocked +at his appearance; he was on his knees with clothing disarranged, +hands uncovered and frostbitten, and a wild look in his eyes. Asked +what was the matter, he replied with a slow speech that he didn't +know, but thought he must have fainted. We got him on his feet, but +after two or three steps he sank down again. He showed every sign of +complete collapse. Wilson, Bowers, and I went back for the sledge, +whilst Oates remained with him. When we returned he was practically +unconscious, and when we got him into the tent quite comatose. He +died quietly at 12.30 A.M. On discussing the symptoms we think he +began to get weaker just before we reached the Pole, and that his +downward path was accelerated first by the shock of his frostbitten +fingers, and later by falls during rough travelling on the glacier, +further by his loss of all confidence in himself. Wilson thinks it +certain he must have injured his brain by a fall. It is a terrible +thing to lose a companion in this way, but calm reflection shows that +there could not have been a better ending to the terrible anxieties of +the past week. Discussion of the situation at lunch yesterday shows +us what a desperate pass we were in with a sick man on our hands at +such a distance from home. + +At 1 A.M. we packed up and came down over the pressure ridges, +finding our depôt easily. + + + +CHAPTER XX + +The Last March_25_ + +_Sunday, February_ 18.--R. 32. Temp. -5.5°. At Shambles Camp. We +gave ourselves 5 hours' sleep at the lower glacier depot after the +horrible night, and came on at about 3 to-day to this camp, coming +fairly easily over the divide. Here with plenty of horsemeat we have +had a fine supper, to be followed by others such, and so continue +a more plentiful era if we can keep good marches up. New life seems +to come with greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about +the Barrier surfaces. + +_Monday, February_ 19.--Lunch T. -16°. It was late (past noon) +before we got away to-day, as I gave nearly 8 hours sleep, and much +camp work was done shifting sledges [44] and fitting up new one with +mast, &c., packing horsemeat and personal effects. The surface was +every bit as bad as I expected, the sun shining brightly on it and +its covering of soft loose sandy snow. We have come out about 2' +on the old tracks. Perhaps lucky to have a fine day for this and our +camp work, but we shall want wind or change of sliding conditions to +do anything on such a surface as we have got. I fear there will not +be much change for the next 3 or 4 days. + +R. 33. Temp. -17°. We have struggled out 4.6 miles in a short day over +a really terrible surface--it has been like pulling over desert sand, +not the least glide in the world. If this goes on we shall have a bad +time, but I sincerely trust it is only the result of this windless +area close to the coast and that, as we are making steadily outwards, +we shall shortly escape it. It is perhaps premature to be anxious +about covering distance. In all other respects things are improving. We +have our sleeping-bags spread on the sledge and they are drying, but, +above all, we have our full measure of food again. To-night we had +a sort of stew fry of pemmican and horseflesh, and voted it the best +hoosh we had ever had on a sledge journey. The absence of poor Evans +is a help to the commissariat, but if he had been here in a fit state +we might have got along faster. I wonder what is in store for us, +with some little alarm at the lateness of the season. + +_Monday, February_ 20.--R. 34. Lunch Temp. -13°; Supper +Temp. -15°. Same terrible surface; four hours' hard plodding in +morning brought us to our Desolation Camp, where we had the four-day +blizzard. We looked for more pony meat, but found none. After lunch +we took to ski with some improvement of comfort. Total mileage for day +7--the ski tracks pretty plain and easily followed this afternoon. We +have left another cairn behind. Terribly slow progress, but we hope for +better things as we clear the land. There is a tendency to cloud over +in the S.E. to-night, which may turn to our advantage. At present +our sledge and ski leave deeply ploughed tracks which can be seen +winding for miles behind. It is distressing, but as usual trials are +forgotten when we camp, and good food is our lot. Pray God we get +better travelling as we are not fit as we were, and the season is +advancing apace. + +_Tuesday, February_ 21.--R. 35. Lunch Temp. -9 1/2°; Supper +Temp. -11°. Gloomy and overcast when we started; a good deal +warmer. The marching almost as bad as yesterday. Heavy toiling all +day, inspiring gloomiest thoughts at times. Rays of comfort when +we picked up tracks and cairns. At lunch we seemed to have missed +the way, but an hour or two after we passed the last pony walls, +and since, we struck a tent ring, ending the march actually on our +old pony-tracks. There is a critical spot here with a long stretch +between cairns. If we can tide that over we get on the regular cairn +route, and with luck should stick to it; but everything depends on the +weather. We never won a march of 8 1/2 miles with greater difficulty, +but we can't go on like this. We are drawing away from the land and +perhaps may get better things in a day or two. I devoutly hope so. + +_Wednesday, February_ 22.--R. 36. Supper Temp. -2°. There is little +doubt we are in for a rotten critical time going home, and the +lateness of the season may make it really serious. Shortly after +starting to-day the wind grew very fresh from the S.E. with strong +surface drift. We lost the faint track immediately, though covering +ground fairly rapidly. Lunch came without sight of the cairn we had +hoped to pass. In the afternoon, Bowers being sure we were too far +to the west, steered out. Result, we have passed another pony camp +without seeing it. Looking at the map to-night there is no doubt we +are too far to the east. With clear weather we ought to be able to +correct the mistake, but will the weather get clear? It's a gloomy +position, more especially as one sees the same difficulty returning +even when we have corrected the error. The wind is dying down to-night +and the sky clearing in the south, which is hopeful. Meanwhile it +is satisfactory to note that such untoward events fail to damp the +spirit of the party. To-night we had a pony hoosh so excellent and +filling that one feels really strong and vigorous again. + +_Thursday, February_ 23.--R. 37. Lunch Temp.-9.8°; Supper +Temp. -12°. Started in sunshine, wind almost dropped. Luckily +Bowers took a round of angles and with help of the chart we fogged +out that we must be inside rather than outside tracks. The data +were so meagre that it seemed a great responsibility to march out +and we were none of us happy about it. But just as we decided to +lunch, Bowers' wonderful sharp eyes detected an old double lunch +cairn, the theodolite telescope confirmed it, and our spirits rose +accordingly. This afternoon we marched on and picked up another cairn; +then on and camped only 2 1/2 miles from the depot. We cannot see +it, but, given fine weather, we cannot miss it. We are, therefore, +extraordinarily relieved. Covered 8.2 miles in 7 hours, showing we +can do 10 to 12 on this surface. Things are again looking up, as we +are on the regular line of cairns, with no gaps right home, I hope. + +_Friday, February_ 24.--Lunch. Beautiful day--too beautiful--an +hour after starting loose ice crystals spoiling surface. Saw depot +and reached it middle forenoon. Found store in order except shortage +oil_26_--shall have to be _very_ saving with fuel--otherwise have ten +full days' provision from to-night and shall have less than 70 miles +to go. Note from Meares who passed through December 15, saying surface +bad; from Atkinson, after fine marching (2 1/4 days from pony depot), +reporting Keohane better after sickness. Short note from Evans, +not very cheerful, saying surface bad, temperature high. Think he +must have been a little anxious. [45] It is an immense relief to +have picked up this depot and, for the time, anxieties are thrust +aside. There is no doubt we have been rising steadily since leaving +the Shambles Camp. The coastal Barrier descends except where glaciers +press out. Undulation still but flattening out. Surface soft on top, +curiously hard below. Great difference now between night and day +temperatures. Quite warm as I write in tent. We are on tracks with +half-march cairn ahead; have covered 4 1/2 miles. Poor Wilson has a +fearful attack snow-blindness consequent on yesterday's efforts. Wish +we had more fuel. + +Night camp R. 38. Temp. -17°. A little despondent again. We had a +really terrible surface this afternoon and only covered 4 miles. We +are on the track just beyond a lunch cairn. It really will be a bad +business if we are to have this pulling all through. I don't know +what to think, but the rapid closing of the season is ominous. It +is great luck having the horsemeat to add to our ration. To-night +we have had a real fine 'hoosh.' It is a race between the season and +hard conditions and our fitness and good food. + +_Saturday, February_ 25.--Lunch Temp. -12°. Managed just 6 miles this +morning. Started somewhat despondent; not relieved when pulling seemed +to show no improvement. Bit by bit surface grew better, less sastrugi, +more glide, slight following wind for a time. Then we began to travel +a little faster. But the pulling is still _very_ hard; undulations +disappearing but inequalities remain. + +Twenty-six Camp walls about 2 miles ahead, all tracks in sight--Evans' +track very conspicuous. This is something in favour, but the +pulling is tiring us, though we are getting into better ski drawing +again. Bowers hasn't quite the trick and is a little hurt at my +criticisms, but I never doubted his heart. Very much easier--write +diary at lunch--excellent meal--now one pannikin very strong tea--four +biscuits and butter. + +Hope for better things this afternoon, but no improvement +apparent. Oh! for a little wind--E. Evans evidently had plenty. + +R. 39. Temp. -20°. Better march in afternoon. Day yields 11.4 +miles--the first double figure of steady dragging for a long time, +but it meant and will mean hard work if we can't get a wind to help +us. Evans evidently had a strong wind here, S.E. I should think. The +temperature goes very low at night now when the sky is clear as at +present. As a matter of fact this is wonderfully fair weather--the +only drawback the spoiling of the surface and absence of wind. We +see all tracks very plain, but the pony-walls have evidently been +badly drifted up. Some kind people had substituted a cairn at last +camp 27. The old cairns do not seem to have suffered much. + +_Sunday, February_ 26.--Lunch Temp. -17°. Sky overcast at start, but +able see tracks and cairn distinct at long distance. Did a little +better, 6 1/2 miles to date. Bowers and Wilson now in front. Find +great relief pulling behind with no necessity to keep attention on +track. Very cold nights now and cold feet starting march, as day +footgear doesn't dry at all. We are doing well on our food, but we +ought to have yet more. I hope the next depôt, now only 50 miles, +will find us with enough surplus to open out. The fuel shortage still +an anxiety. + +R. 40. Temp. -21° Nine hours' solid marching has given us 11 1/2 +miles. Only 43 miles from the next depôt. Wonderfully fine weather but +cold, very cold. Nothing dries and we get our feet cold too often. We +want more food yet and especially more fat. Fuel is woefully short. We +can scarcely hope to get a better surface at this season, but I wish +we could have some help from the wind, though it might shake us badly +if the temp. didn't rise. + +_Monday, February_ 27.--Desperately cold last night: -33° when we +got up, with -37° minimum. Some suffering from cold feet, but all got +good rest. We _must_ open out on food soon. But we have done 7 miles +this morning and hope for some 5 this afternoon. Overcast sky and good +surface till now, when sun shows again. It is good to be marching the +cairns up, but there is still much to be anxious about. We talk of +little but food, except after meals. Land disappearing in satisfactory +manner. Pray God we have no further set-backs. We are naturally always +discussing possibility of meeting dogs, where and when, &c. It is +a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety at next depôt, +but there is a horrid element of doubt. + +Camp R. 41. Temp. -32°. Still fine clear weather but very +cold--absolutely calm to-night. We have got off an excellent march +for these days (12.2) and are much earlier than usual in our bags. 31 +miles to depot, 3 days' fuel at a pinch, and 6 days' food. Things +begin to look a little better; we can open out a little on food from +to-morrow night, I think. + +Very curious surface--soft recent sastrugi which sink underfoot, +and between, a sort of flaky crust with large crystals beneath. + +_Tuesday, February_ 28.--Lunch. Thermometer went below -40° last night; +it was desperately cold for us, but we had a fair night. I decided +to slightly increase food; the effect is undoubtedly good. Started +marching in -32° with a slight north-westerly breeze--blighting. Many +cold feet this morning; long time over foot gear, but we are +earlier. Shall camp earlier and get the chance of a good night, if +not the reality. Things must be critical till we reach the depot, and +the more I think of matters, the more I anticipate their remaining so +after that event. Only 24 1/2 miles from the depot. The sun shines +brightly, but there is little warmth in it. There is no doubt the +middle of the Barrier is a pretty awful locality. + +Camp 42. Splendid pony hoosh sent us to bed and sleep happily after a +horrid day, wind continuing; did 11 1/2 miles. Temp. not quite so low, +but expect we are in for cold night (Temp. -27°). + +_Wednesday, February_ 29.--Lunch. Cold night. Minimum Temp. -37.5°; +-30° with north-west wind, force 4, when we got up. Frightfully +cold starting; luckily Bowers and Oates in their last new finnesko; +keeping my old ones for present. Expected awful march and for first +hour got it. Then things improved and we camped after 5 1/2 hours +marching close to lunch camp--22 1/2. Next camp is our depot and it is +exactly 13 miles. It ought not to take more than 1 1/2 days; we pray +for another fine one. The oil will just about spin out in that event, +and we arrive 3 clear days' food in hand. The increase of ration has +had an enormously beneficial result. Mountains now looking small. Wind +still very light from west--cannot understand this wind. + +_Thursday, March_ 1.--Lunch. Very cold last night--minimum -41.5°. Cold +start to march, too, as usual now. Got away at 8 and have marched +within sight of depot; flag something under 3 miles away. We did 11 +1/2 yesterday and marched 6 this morning. Heavy dragging yesterday +and _very_ heavy this morning. Apart from sledging considerations +the weather is wonderful. Cloudless days and nights and the wind +trifling. Worse luck, the light airs come from the north and keep us +horribly cold. For this lunch hour the exception has come. There is +a bright and comparatively warm sun. All our gear is out drying. + +_Friday, March_ 2.--Lunch. Misfortunes rarely come singly. We marched +to the (Middle Barrier) depot fairly easily yesterday afternoon, and +since that have suffered three distinct blows which have placed us +in a bad position. First we found a shortage of oil; with most rigid +economy it can scarce carry us to the next depot on this surface (71 +miles away). Second, Titus Oates disclosed his feet, the toes showing +very bad indeed, evidently bitten by the late temperatures. The third +blow came in the night, when the wind, which we had hailed with some +joy, brought dark overcast weather. It fell below -40° in the night, +and this morning it took 1 1/2 hours to get our foot gear on, but +we got away before eight. We lost cairn and tracks together and made +as steady as we could N. by W., but have seen nothing. Worse was to +come--the surface is simply awful. In spite of strong wind and full +sail we have only done 5 1/2 miles. We are in a very queer street +since there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches and feel the +cold horribly. + +_Saturday, March_ 3.--Lunch. We picked up the track again yesterday, +finding ourselves to the eastward. Did close on 10 miles and things +looked a trifle better; but this morning the outlook is blacker +than ever. Started well and with good breeze; for an hour made good +headway; then the surface grew awful beyond words. The wind drew +forward; every circumstance was against us. After 4 1/4 hours things +so bad that we camped, having covered 4 1/2 miles. (R. 46.) One +cannot consider this a fault of our own--certainly we were pulling +hard this morning--it was more than three parts surface which held +us back--the wind at strongest, powerless to move the sledge. When +the light is good it is easy to see the reason. The surface, lately +a very good hard one, is coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals, +formed by radiation no doubt. These are too firmly fixed to be removed +by the wind and cause impossible friction on the runners. God help us, +we can't keep up this pulling, that is certain. Amongst ourselves we +are unendingly cheerful, but what each man feels in his heart I can +only guess. Pulling on foot gear in the morning is getter slower and +slower, therefore every day more dangerous. + +_Sunday, March_ 4.--Lunch. Things looking _very_ black indeed. As usual +we forgot our trouble last night, got into our bags, slept splendidly +on good hoosh, woke and had another, and started marching. Sun shining +brightly, tracks clear, but surface covered with sandy frostrime. All +the morning we had to pull with all our strength, and in 4 1/2 hours we +covered 3 1/2 miles. Last night it was overcast and thick, surface bad; +this morning sun shining and surface as bad as ever. One has little +to hope for except perhaps strong dry wind--an unlikely contingency +at this time of year. Under the immediate surface crystals is a hard +sustrugi surface, which must have been excellent for pulling a week or +two ago. We are about 42 miles from the next depot and have a week's +food, but only about 3 to 4 days' fuel--we are as economical of the +latter as one can possibly be, and we cannot afford to save food and +pull as we are pulling. We are in a very tight place indeed, but none +of us despondent _yet_, or at least we preserve every semblance of +good cheer, but one's heart sinks as the sledge stops dead at some +sastrugi behind which the surface sand lies thickly heaped. For the +moment the temperature is on the -20°--an improvement which makes +us much more comfortable, but a colder snap is bound to come again +soon. I fear that Oates at least will weather such an event very +poorly. Providence to our aid! We can expect little from man now +except the possibility of extra food at the next depot. It will be +real bad if we get there and find the same shortage of oil. Shall we +get there? Such a short distance it would have appeared to us on the +summit! I don't know what I should do if Wilson and Bowers weren't +so determinedly cheerful over things. + +_Monday, March_ 5.--Lunch. Regret to say going from bad to worse. We +got a slant of wind yesterday afternoon, and going on 5 hours we +converted our wretched morning run of 3 1/2 miles into something +over 9. We went to bed on a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid with the +chill off. (R. 47.) The result is telling on all, but mainly on Oates, +whose feet are in a wretched condition. One swelled up tremendously +last night and he is very lame this morning. We started march on tea +and pemmican as last night--we pretend to prefer the pemmican this +way. Marched for 5 hours this morning over a slightly better surface +covered with high moundy sastrugi. Sledge capsized twice; we pulled on +foot, covering about 5 1/2 miles. We are two pony marches and 4 miles +about from our depot. Our fuel dreadfully low and the poor Soldier +nearly done. It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; +more hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none +of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest of us +Wilson is feeling them most; mainly, I fear, from his self-sacrificing +devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot help each other, each has +enough to do to take care of himself. We get cold on the march when +the trudging is heavy, and the wind pierces our warm garments. The +others, all of them, are unendingly cheerful when in the tent. We +mean to see the game through with a proper spirit, but it's tough +work to be pulling harder than we ever pulled in our lives for long +hours, and to feel that the progress is so slow. One can only say +'God help us!' and plod on our weary way, cold and very miserable, +though outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts of subjects in the +tent, not much of food now, since we decided to take the risk of +running a full ration. We simply couldn't go hungry at this time. + +_Tuesday, March_ 6.--Lunch. We did a little better with help of wind +yesterday afternoon, finishing 9 1/2 miles for the day, and 27 miles +from depot. (R. 48.) But this morning things have been awful. It was +warm in the night and for the first time during the journey I overslept +myself by more than an hour; then we were slow with foot gear; then, +pulling with all our might (for our lives) we could scarcely advance +at rate of a mile an hour; then it grew thick and three times we had +to get out of harness to search for tracks. The result is something +less than 3 1/2 miles for the forenoon. The sun is shining now and +the wind gone. Poor Oates is unable to pull, sits on the sledge when +we are track-searching--he is wonderfully plucky, as his feet must +be giving him great pain. He makes no complaint, but his spirits +only come up in spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent. We +are making a spirit lamp to try and replace the primus when our oil +is exhausted. It will be a very poor substitute and we've not got +much spirit. If we could have kept up our 9-mile days we might have +got within reasonable distance of the depot before running out, +but nothing but a strong wind and good surface can help us now, +and though we had quite a good breeze this morning, the sledge came +as heavy as lead. If we were all fit I should have hopes of getting +through, but the poor Soldier has become a terrible hindrance, though +he does his utmost and suffers much I fear. + +_Wednesday, March_ 7.--A little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet _very_ +bad this morning; he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what we +will do together at home. + +We only made 6 1/2 miles yesterday. (R. 49.) This morning in 4 1/2 +hours we did just over 4 miles. We are 16 from our depot. If we only +find the correct proportion of food there and this surface continues, +we may get to the next depot [Mt. Hooper, 72 miles farther] but not +to One Ton Camp. We hope against hope that the dogs have been to +Mt. Hooper; then we might pull through. If there is a shortage of oil +again we can have little hope. One feels that for poor Oates the crisis +is near, but none of us are improving, though we are wonderfully fit +considering the really excessive work we are doing. We are only kept +going by good food. No wind this morning till a chill northerly air +came ahead. Sun bright and cairns showing up well. I should like to +keep the track to the end. + +_Thursday, March_ 8.--Lunch. Worse and worse in morning; poor Oates' +left foot can never last out, and time over foot gear something +awful. Have to wait in night foot gear for nearly an hour before I +start changing, and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet +giving trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help to +others. We did 4 1/2 miles this morning and are now 8 1/2 miles from +the depot--a ridiculously small distance to feel in difficulties, +yet on this surface we know we cannot equal half our old marches, +and that for that effort we expend nearly double the energy. The +great question is, What shall we find at the depot? If the dogs have +visited it we may get along a good distance, but if there is another +short allowance of fuel, God help us indeed. We are in a very bad way, +I fear, in any case. + +_Saturday, March_ 10.--Things steadily downhill. Oates' foot worse. He +has rare pluck and must know that he can never get through. He asked +Wilson if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill had to say +he didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart from him, if he +went under now, I doubt whether we could get through. With great care +we might have a dog's chance, but no more. The weather conditions are +awful, and our gear gets steadily more icy and difficult to manage. At +the same time of course poor Titus is the greatest handicap. He keeps +us waiting in the morning until we have partly lost the warming effect +of our good breakfast, when the only wise policy is to be up and away +at once; again at lunch. Poor chap! it is too pathetic to watch him; +one cannot but try to cheer him up. + +Yesterday we marched up the depot, Mt. Hooper. Cold comfort. Shortage +on our allowance all round. I don't know that anyone is to blame. The +dogs which would have been our salvation have evidently failed. [46] +Meares had a bad trip home I suppose. + +This morning it was calm when we breakfasted, but the wind came +from W.N.W. as we broke camp. It rapidly grew in strength. After +travelling for half an hour I saw that none of us could go on facing +such conditions. We were forced to camp and are spending the rest of +the day in a comfortless blizzard camp, wind quite foul. (R. 52.) + +_Sunday, March_ ll.--Titus Oates is very near the end, one feels. What +we or he will do, God only knows. We discussed the matter after +breakfast; he is a brave fine fellow and understands the situation, +but he practically asked for advice. Nothing could be said but to +urge him to march as long as he could. One satisfactory result to +the discussion; I practically ordered Wilson to hand over the means +of ending our troubles to us, so that anyone of us may know how to +do so. Wilson had no choice between doing so and our ransacking the +medicine case. We have 30 opium tabloids apiece and he is left with +a tube of morphine. So far the tragical side of our story. (R. 53.) + +The sky completely overcast when we started this morning. We could see +nothing, lost the tracks, and doubtless have been swaying a good deal +since--3.1 miles for the forenoon--terribly heavy dragging--expected +it. Know that 6 miles is about the limit of our endurance now, if we +get no help from wind or surfaces. We have 7 days' food and should be +about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 × 7 = 42, leaving us 13 +miles short of our distance, even if things get no worse. Meanwhile +the season rapidly advances. + +_Monday, March_ 12.--We did 6.9 miles yesterday, under our necessary +average. Things are left much the same, Oates not pulling much, and +now with hands as well as feet pretty well useless. We did 4 miles +this morning in 4 hours 20 min.--we may hope for 3 this afternoon, +7 × 6 = 42. We shall be 47 miles from the depot. I doubt if we can +possibly do it. The surface remains awful, the cold intense, and +our physical condition running down. God help us! Not a breath of +favourable wind for more than a week, and apparently liable to head +winds at any moment. + +_Wednesday, March_ 14.--No doubt about the going downhill, but +everything going wrong for us. Yesterday we woke to a strong northerly +wind with temp. -37°. Couldn't face it, so remained in camp (R. 54) +till 2, then did 5 1/4 miles. Wanted to march later, but party feeling +the cold badly as the breeze (N.) never took off entirely, and as +the sun sank the temp. fell. Long time getting supper in dark. (R. 55.) + +This morning started with southerly breeze, set sail and passed another +cairn at good speed; half-way, however, the wind shifted to W. by +S. or W.S.W., blew through our wind clothes and into our mits. Poor +Wilson horribly cold, could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and +I practically made camp, and when we got into the tent at last we +were all deadly cold. Then temp, now midday down -43° and the wind +strong. We _must_ go on, but now the making of every camp must be +more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end, but a pretty +merciful end. Poor Oates got it again in the foot. I shudder to think +what it will be like to-morrow. It is only with greatest pains rest +of us keep off frostbites. No idea there could be temperatures like +this at this time of year with such winds. Truly awful outside the +tent. Must fight it out to the last biscuit, but can't reduce rations. + +_Friday, March_ 16 _or Saturday_ 17.--Lost track of dates, but +think the last correct. Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the +day before yesterday, poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he +proposed we should leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not +do, and induced him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of +its awful nature for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At +night he was worse and we knew the end had come. + +Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last +thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride +in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold way in +which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery. He has borne +intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and to the very last +was able and willing to discuss outside subjects. He did not--would +not--give up hope to the very end. He was a brave soul. This was the +end. He slept through the night before last, hoping not to wake; but +he woke in the morning--yesterday. It was blowing a blizzard. He said, +'I am just going outside and may be some time.' He went out into the +blizzard and we have not seen him since. + +I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick +companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely out +of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder seemed to +demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully removed him at this +critical moment. He died a natural death, and we did not leave him +till two hours after his death. We knew that poor Oates was walking +to his death, but though we tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the +act of a brave man and an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the +end with a similar spirit, and assuredly the end is not far. + +I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold is +intense, -40° at midday. My companions are unendingly cheerful, but we +are all on the verge of serious frostbites, and though we constantly +talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us believes it in +his heart. + +We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals. Yesterday +we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move dreadfully +slowly. We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony marches from +One Ton Depôt. We leave here our theodolite, a camera, and Oates' +sleeping-bags. Diaries, &c., and geological specimens carried at +Wilson's special request, will be found with us or on our sledge. + +_Sunday, March_ 18.--To-day, lunch, we are 21 miles from the depot. Ill +fortune presses, but better may come. We have had more wind and +drift from ahead yesterday; had to stop marching; wind N.W., force 4, +temp. -35°. No human being could face it, and we are worn out _nearly_. + +My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes--two days ago I was proud +possessor of best feet. These are the steps of my downfall. Like an ass +I mixed a small spoonful of curry powder with my melted pemmican--it +gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake and in pain all night; woke +and felt done on the march; foot went and I didn't know it. A very +small measure of neglect and have a foot which is not pleasant to +contemplate. Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not +much to choose after all. The others are still confident of getting +through--or pretend to be--I don't know! We have the last _half_ fill +of oil in our primus and a very small quantity of spirit--this alone +between us and thirst. The wind is fair for the moment, and that is +perhaps a fact to help. The mileage would have seemed ridiculously +small on our outward journey. + +_Monday, March_ 19.--Lunch. We camped with difficulty last night, +and were dreadfully cold till after our supper of cold pemmican and +biscuit and a half a pannikin of cocoa cooked over the spirit. Then, +contrary to expectation, we got warm and all slept well. To-day we +started in the usual dragging manner. Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are +15 1/2 miles from the depot and ought to get there in three days. What +progress! We have two days' food but barely a day's fuel. All our +feet are getting bad--Wilson's best, my right foot worst, left all +right. There is no chance to nurse one's feet till we can get hot +food into us. Amputation is the least I can hope for now, but will +the trouble spread? That is the serious question. The weather doesn't +give us a chance--the wind from N. to N.W. and -40° temp, to-day. + +_Wednesday, March_ 11.--Got within 11 miles of depôt Monday night; +[47] had to lay up all yesterday in severe blizzard._27_ To-day +forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to depot for +fuel. + +_Thursday, March_ 22 _and_ 23.--Blizzard bad as ever--Wilson and +Bowers unable to start--to-morrow last chance--no fuel and only one +or two of food left--must be near the end. Have decided it shall be +natural--we shall march for the depot with or without our effects +and die in our tracks. + +_Thursday, March_ 29.--Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale +from W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece and +bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been ready to +start for our depot _11 miles_ away, but outside the door of the tent +it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do not think we can hope for +any better things now. We shall stick it out to the end, but we are +getting weaker, of course, and the end cannot be far. + +It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more. + +R. SCOTT. + +For God's sake look after our people. + + +------------ + +Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their +sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally close +them. + +Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag +and opened his coat. The little wallet containing the three notebooks +was under his shoulders and his arm flung across Wilson. So they were +found eight months later. + +With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters: + + + + +TO MRS. E. A. WILSON + +MY DEAR MRS. WILSON, + +If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together. We +are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid he +was at the end--everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice himself +for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him into this +mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor discomforts. + +His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is peaceful +with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself as part of +the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to comfort you +than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave, true man--the +best of comrades and staunchest of friends. My whole heart goes out +to you in pity, + + Yours, + R. SCOTT + + + + + +TO MRS. BOWERS + +MY DEAR MRS. BOWERS, + +I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows of +your life. + +I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am +finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of +these is your son. He had come to be one of my closest and soundest +friends, and I appreciate his wonderful upright nature, his ability +and energy. As the troubles have thickened his dauntless spirit ever +shone brighter and he has remained cheerful, hopeful, and indomitable +to the end. + +The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some reason +why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken. + +My whole heart goes out in pity for you. + + Yours, + R. SCOTT. + +To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what a +happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look back on +nothing but happiness. + +He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the end, +believing in God's mercy to you. + + + + + + +TO SIR J. M. BARRIE + +MY DEAR BARRIE, + +We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter +may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell. ... More +practically I want you to help my widow and my boy--your godson. We are +showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold spirit, fighting it +out to the end. It will be known that we have accomplished our object +in reaching the Pole, and that we have done everything possible, +even to sacrificing ourselves in order to save sick companions. I +think this makes an example for Englishmen of the future, and that +the country ought to help those who are left behind to mourn us. I +leave my poor girl and your godson, Wilson leaves a widow, and Edgar +Evans also a widow in humble circumstances. Do what you can to get +their claims recognised. Goodbye. I am not at all afraid of the end, +but sad to miss many a humble pleasure which I had planned for the +future on our long marches. I may not have proved a great explorer, +but we have done the greatest march ever made and come very near to +great success. Goodbye, my dear friend, + + Yours ever, + R. SCOTT. + +We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, &c. No fuel and a long +way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent, +to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will do +when we get to Hut Point. + +_Later_.--We are very near the end, but have not and will not lose +our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our tent and nowhere's +food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves when things proved +like this, but we have decided to die naturally in the track. + +As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child. Give +the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought to have +good stuff in him. ... I never met a man in my life whom I admired +and loved more than you, but I never could show you how much your +friendship meant to me, for you had much to give and I nothing. + + + + + + +TO THE RIGHT HON. SIR EDGAR SPEYER, BART. + + +Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5°. + + +MY DEAR SIR EDGAR, + +I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves the +Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and we shall +die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave behind. + +I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your +generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we stuck +by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the end. I think +this will show that the Spirit of pluck and power to endure has not +passed out of our race ... + +Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself +again and again to the sick men of the party ... + +I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some time +after we are found next year. + +We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it, +but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is +to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we have +lacked support. + +Good-bye to you and your dear kind wife. + + Yours ever sincerely, + R. SCOTT. + + + + + + +TO VICE-ADMIRAL SIR FRANCIS CHARLES BRIDGEMAN, K.C.V.O., K.C.B. + +MY DEAR SIR FRANCIS, + +I fear we have shipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few +letters which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank +you for the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you +how extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I want +to tell you that I was not too old for this job. It was the younger +men that went under first... After all we are setting a good example +to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight place, by facing +it like men when we were there. We could have come through had we +neglected the sick. + +Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman. + +Yours ever, + +R. SCOTT. + +Excuse writing--it is -40°, and has been for nigh a month. + + + + + +TO VICE-ADMIRAL SIR GEORGE LE CLEARC EGERTON. K.C.B. + +MY DEAR SIR GEORGE, + +I fear we have shot our bolt--but we have been to Pole and done the +longest journey on record. + +I hope these letters may find their destination some day. + +Subsidiary reasons of our failure to return are due to the sickness of +different members of the party, but the real thing that has stopped +us is the awful weather and unexpected cold towards the end of the +journey. + +This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe as +any experience we had on the summit. + +There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my +calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the +base and petering out. + +Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty +is concerned. + + R. SCOTT. + +My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your +kindness. + + + + + + +TO MR. J.J. KINSEY--CHRISTCHURCH + + +March 24th, 1912. + + +MY DEAR KINSEY, + +I'm afraid we are pretty well done--four days of blizzard just as +we were getting to the last depot. My thoughts have been with you +often. You have been a brick. You will pull the expedition through, +I'm sure. + +My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can for +them if the country won't. + +I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know the +circumstances well enough. + +If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have little +regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country need not be +ashamed of us--our journey has been the biggest on record, and nothing +but the most exceptional hard luck at the end would have caused us to +fail to return. We have been to the S. pole as we set out. God bless +you and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is good to remember you and your kindness. + + Your friend, + R. SCOTT. + + + + + +Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William +Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and +Mrs. Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following +extracts: + +The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow to +the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort in +that I die at peace with the world and myself--not afraid. + +Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks I have +taken never seemed excessive. + +... I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by +a narrow margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a +journey ... After all, we have given our lives for our country--we +have actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been +the first Englishmen at the South Pole. + +You must understand that it is too cold to write much. + +... It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail +of equipment is right. + +I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh from +harness and full of good health and vigour. + +Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our depot, with +one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got through but +have been held for _four_ days by a frightful storm. I think the best +chance has gone. We have decided not to kill ourselves, but to fight to +the last for that depôt, but in the fighting there is a painless end. + +Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is better +than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know you will keep +him in the open air. + +Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence. Make +him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous as +you know--had always an inclination to be idle. + +There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole in +my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and other +trifles. Send a small piece of the Union Jack to the King and a small +piece to Queen Alexandra. + +What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much better +has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home. What tales +you would have for the boys. But what a price to pay. + +Tell Sir Clements--I thought much of him and never regretted him +putting me in command of the _Discovery_. + + + + +Message to the Public + +The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organisation, but +to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken. + +1. The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start later +than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff transported to +be narrowed. + +2. The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially the +long gale in 83° S., stopped us. + +3. The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace. + +We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but it +cut into our provision reserve. + +Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and depôts made on the +interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles to the +Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party would +have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus of food, +but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had least expected +to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man of the party. + +The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on our +return we did not get a single completely fine day; this with a sick +companion enormously increased our anxieties. + +As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and Edgar +Evans received a concussion of the brain--he died a natural death, +but left us a shaken party with the season unduly advanced. + +But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise +which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements +for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world would +have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we encountered at +this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85° 86° we had -20°, +-30°. On the Barrier in lat. 82°, 10,000 feet lower, we had -30° +in the day, -47° at night pretty regularly, with continuous head +wind during our day marches. It is clear that these circumstances +come on very suddenly, and our wreck is certainly due to this sudden +advent of severe weather, which does not seem to have any satisfactory +cause. I do not think human beings ever came through such a month as +we have come through, and we should have got through in spite of the +weather but for the sickening of a second companion, Captain Oates, +and a shortage of fuel in our depôts for which I cannot account, +and finally, but for the storm which has fallen on us within 11 miles +of the depôt at which we hoped to secure our final supplies. Surely +misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last blow. We arrived +within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel for one last meal +and food for two days. For four days we have been unable to leave the +tent--the gale howling about us. We are weak, writing is difficult, +but for my own sake I do not regret this journey, which has shown +that Englishmen can endure hardships, help one another, and meet death +with as great a fortitude as ever in the past. We took risks, we knew +we took them; things have come out against us, and therefore we have +no cause for complaint, but bow to the will of Providence, determined +still to do our best to the last. But if we have been willing to give +our lives to this enterprise, which is for the honour of our country, +I appeal to our countrymen to see that those who depend on us are +properly cared for. + +Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood, +endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the +heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must +tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country like ours +will see that those who are dependent on us are properly provided for. + + R. SCOTT. + + + + +APPENDIX + +_Note_ 1, _p._ 3.--Dogs. These included thirty-three sledging dogs +and a collie bitch, 'Lassie.' The thirty-three, all Siberian dogs +excepting the Esquimaux 'Peary' and 'Borup,' were collected by +Mr. Meares, who drove them across Siberia to Vladivostok with the +help of the dog-driver Demetri Gerof, whom he had engaged for the +expedition. From Vladivostok, where he was joined by Lieutenant Wilfred +Bruce, he brought them by steamer to Sydney, and thence to Lyttelton. + +The dogs were the gift of various schools, as shown by the following +list: + + +Dogs Presented by Schools, &c. + +School's, &c., Russian name Translation, Name of School, &c., +name for Dog. of Dog. description, or that presented Dog. + nickname of Dog. + +Beaumont Kumgai Isle off Beaumont College. + Vladivostok +Bengeo Mannike Noogis Little Leader Bengeo, Herts. +Bluecoat Giliak Indian tribe Christ's Hospital. +Bristol Lappa Uki Lop Ears Grammar, Bristol. +Bromsgrove 'Peary' 'Peary' Bromsgrove School + (cost of transport). +Colston's Bullet Bullet Colston's School. +Danum Rabchick Grouse Doncaster Grammar Sch. +Derby I. Suka Lassie Girls' Secondary School, + Derby. +Derby II. Silni Stocky Secondary Technical School, + Derby. +Devon Jolti Yellowboy Devonshire House Branch + of Navy League. +Duns Brodiaga Robber Berwickshire High School. +Falcon Seri Grey High School, Winchester. +Felsted Visoli Jollyboy Felsted School. +Glebe Pestry Piebald Glebe House School. +Grassendale Suhoi II. Lanky Grassendale School. +Hal Krisravitsa Beauty Colchester Royal + Grammar School. +Hampstead Ishak Jackass South Hampstead High + School (Girls). +Hughie Gerachi Ginger Master H. Gethin Lewis. +Ilkley Wolk Wolf Ilkley Grammar. +Innie Suhoi I. Lanky Liverpool Institute. +Jersey Bear Bear Victoria College, Jersey. +John Bright Seri Uki Grey Ears Bootham. +Laleham Biela Noogis White Leader Laleham. +Leighton Pudil Poodle Leighton Park, Reading. +Lyon Tresor Treasure Lower School of J. Lyon. +Mac Deek I. Wild One Wells House. +Manor Colonel Colonel Manor House. +Mount Vesoi One Eye Mount, York. +Mundella Bulli Bullet Mundella Secondary. +Oakfield Ruggiola Sabaka 'Gun Dog' (Hound) Oakfield School, Rugby. +Oldham Vaida Christian name Hulme Grammar School, + Oldham. +Perse Vaska Lady's name Perse Grammar. +Poacher Malchick Black Old Man Grammar School, Lincoln. + Chorney Stareek +Price Llewelyn Hohol Little Russian Intermediate, Llan-dudno Wells. +Radlyn Czigane Gipsy Radlyn, Harrogate. +Richmond Osman Christian name Richmond, Yorks. +Regent Marakas seri Grey Regent Street Polytechnic +Steyne Petichka Little Bird Steyne, Worthing. +Sir Andrew Deek II. Wild One Sir Andrew Judd's + Commercial School. +Somerset Churnie kesoi One eye A Somerset School. +Tiger Mukaka Monkey Bournemouth School. +Tom Stareek Old Man Woodbridge. +Tua r Golleniai Julik Scamp Intermediate School, Cardiff. +Vic Glinie Long Nose Modern, Southport. +Whitgift Mamuke Rabchick Little Grouse Whitgift Grammar. +Winston Borup Borup Winston Higher Grade School + (cost of transport). + Meduate Lion N.Z. Girls' School. + + +_Note_ 2, _p_. 4.--Those who are named in these opening pages +were all keen supporters of the Expedition. Sir George Clifford, +Bart., and Messrs. Arthur and George Rhodes were friends from +Christchurch. Mr. M. J. Miller, Mayor of Lyttelton, was a master +shipwright and contractor, who took great interest in both the +_Discovery_ and the _Terra Nova_, and stopped the leak in the latter +vessel which had been so troublesome on the voyage out. Mr. Anderson +belonged to the firm of John Anderson & Sons, engineers, who own +Lyttelton Foundry. Mr. Kinsey was the trusted friend and representative +who acted as the representative of Captain Scott in New Zealand +during his absence in the South. Mr. Wyatt was business manager to +the Expedition. + +_Note_ 3. _p_. 11.--Dr. Wilson writes: I must say I enjoyed it all from +beginning to end, and as one bunk became unbearable after another, +owing to the wet, and the comments became more and more to the point +as people searched out dry spots here and there to finish the night +in oilskins and greatcoats on the cabin or ward-room seats, I thought +things were becoming interesting. + +Some of the staff were like dead men with sea-sickness. Even so +Cherry-Garrard and Wright and Day turned out with the rest of us and +alternately worked and were sick. + +I have no sea-sickness on these ships myself under any conditions, +so I enjoyed it all, and as I have the run of the bridge and can ask +as many questions as I choose, I knew all that was going on. + +All Friday and Friday night we worked in two parties, two hours on and +two hours off; it was heavy work filling and handing up huge buckets +of water as fast as they could be given from one to the other from the +very bottom of the stokehold to the upper deck, up little metal ladders +all the way. One was of course wet through the whole time in a sweater +and trousers and sea boots, and every two hours one took these off and +hurried in for a rest in a greatcoat, to turn out again in two hours +and put in the same cold sopping clothes, and so on until 4 A.M. on +Saturday, when we had baled out between four and five tons of water +and had so lowered it that it was once more possible to light fires +and try the engines and the steam pump again and to clear the valves +and the inlet which was once more within reach. The fires had been +put out at 11.40 A.M. and were then out for twenty-two hours while +we baled. It was a weird' night's work with the howling gale and the +darkness and the immense seas running over the ship every few minutes +and no engines and no sail, and we all in the engine-room, black as ink +with the engine-room oil and bilge water, singing chanties as we passed +up slopping buckets full of bilge, each man above' slopping a little +over the heads of all below him; wet through to the skin, so much so +that some of the party worked altogether naked like Chinese coolies; +and the rush of the wave backwards and forwards at the bottom grew +hourly less in the dim light of a couple of engine-room oil lamps whose +light just made the darkness visible, the ship all the time rolling +like a sodden lifeless log, her lee gunwale under water every time. + +_December_ 3. We were all at work till 4 A.M. and then were all told +off to sleep till 8 A.M. At 9.30 A.M. we were all on to the main +hand pump, and, lo and behold! it worked, and we pumped and pumped +till 12.30, when the ship was once more only as full of bilge water +as she always is and the position was practically solved. + +There was one thrilling moment in the midst of the worst hour on Friday +when we were realising that the fires must be drawn, and when every +pump had failed to act, and when the bulwarks began to go to pieces +and the petrol cases were all afloat and going overboard, and the word +was suddenly passed in a shout from the hands at work in the waist of +the ship trying to save petrol cases that smoke was coming up through +the seams in the after hold. As this was full of coal and patent fuel +and was next the engine-room, and as it had not been opened for the +airing, it required to get rid of gas on account of the flood of water +on deck making it impossible to open the hatchways; the possibility +of a fire there was patent to everyone and it could not possibly have +been dealt with in any way short of opening the hatches and flooding +the ship, when she must have floundered. It was therefore a thrilling +moment or two until it was discovered that the smoke was really steam, +arising from the bilge at the bottom having risen to the heated coal. + +_Note_ 4, _p_. 15.--_December_ 26. We watched two or three immense blue +whales at fairly short distance; this is _Balænoptera Sibbaldi_. One +sees first a small dark hump appear and then immediately a jet of grey +fog squirted upwards fifteen to eighteen feet, gradually spreading as +it rises vertically into the frosty air. I have been nearly in these +blows once or twice and had the moisture in my face with a sickening +smell of shrimpy oil. Then the bump elongates and up rolls an immense +blue-grey or blackish grey round back with a faint ridge along the +top, on which presently appears a small hook-like dorsal fin, and +then the whole sinks and disappears. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 5, _p_. 21.--_December_ 18. Watered ship at a tumbled floe. Sea +ice when pressed up into large hummocks gradually loses all its +salt. Even when sea water freezes it squeezes out the great bulk of +its salt as a solid, but the sea water gets into it by soaking again, +and yet when held out of the water, as it is in a hummock, the salt +all drains out and the melted ice is blue and quite good for drinking, +engines, &c. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 6, _p_. 32.--It may be added that in contradistinction to +the nicknames of Skipper conferred upon Evans, and Mate on Campbell, +Scott himself was known among the afterguard as The Owner. + +_Note_ 7, _p_. 35.--(Penguins.) They have lost none of their +attractiveness, and are most comical and interesting; as curious as +ever, they will always come up at a trot when we sing to them, and +you may often see a group of explorers on the poop singing 'For she's +got bells on her fingers and rings on her toes, elephants to ride upon +wherever she goes,' and so on at the top of their voices to an admiring +group of Adelie penguins. Meares is the greatest attraction; he has +a full voice which is musical but always very flat. He declares that +'God save the King' will always send them to the water, and certainly +it is often successful. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 8, _p_. 58.--We were to examine the possibilities of landing, +but the swell was so heavy in its break among the floating blocks of +ice along the actual beach and ice foot that a landing was out of +the question. We should have broken up the boat and have all been +in the water together. But I assure you it was tantalising to me, +for there about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the old +bay ice about ten feet square one living Emperor penguin chick was +standing disconsolately stranded, and close by stood one faithful old +Emperor parent asleep. This young Emperor was still in the down, a most +interesting fact in the bird's life history at which we had rightly +guessed, but which no one had actually observed before. It was in a +stage never yet seen or collected, for the wings were already quite +clean of down and feathered as in the adult, also a line down the +breast was shed of down, and part of the head. This bird would have +been a treasure to me, but we could not risk life for it, so it had to +remain where it was. It was a curious fact that with as much clean ice +to live on as they could have wished for, these destitute derelicts of +a flourishing colony now gone north to sea on floating bay ice should +have preferred to remain standing on the only piece of bay ice left, +a piece about ten feet square and now pressed up six feet above water +level, evidently wondering why it was so long in starting north with +the general exodus which must have taken place just a month ago. The +whole incident was most interesting and full of suggestion as to the +slow working of the brain of these queer people. Another point was most +weird to see, that on the under side of this very dirty piece of sea +ice, which was about two feet thick and which hung over the water as a +sort of cave, we could see the legs and lower halves of dead Emperor +chicks hanging through, and even in one place a dead adult. I hope +to make a picture of the whole quaint incident, for it was a corner +crammed full of Imperial history in the light of what we already knew, +and it would otherwise have been about as unintelligible as any group +of animate or inanimate nature could possibly have been. As it is, it +throws more light on the life history of this strangely primitive bird. + +We were joking in the boat as we rowed under these cliffs and saying +it would be a short-lived amusement to see the overhanging cliff part +company and fall over us. So we were glad to find that we were rowing +back to the ship and already 200 or 300 yards away from the place and +in open water when there was a noise like crackling thunder and a huge +plunge into the sea and a smother of rock dust like the smoke of an +explosion, and we realised that the very thing had happened which we +had just been talking about. Altogether it was a very exciting row, +for before we got on board we had the pleasure of seeing the ship +shoved in so close to these cliffs by a belt of heavy pack ice that +to us it appeared a toss-up whether she got out again or got forced +in against the rocks. She had no time or room to turn and get clear +by backing out through the belt of pack stern first, getting heavy +bumps under the counter and on the rudder as she did so, for the ice +was heavy and the swell considerable. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 9, _p_. 81.--Dr. Wilson writes in his Journal: _January_ +14. He also told me the plans for our depôt journey on which we shall +be starting in about ten days' time. He wants me to be a dog driver +with himself, Meares, and Teddie Evans, and this is what I would have +chosen had I had a free choice at all. The dogs run in two teams and +each team wants two men. It means a lot of running as they are being +driven now, but it is the fastest and most interesting work of all, +and we go ahead of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster +rate; moreover, if any traction except ourselves can reach the top +of Beardmore Glacier, it will be the dogs, and the dog drivers are +therefore the people who will have the best chance of doing the top +piece of the ice cap at 10,000 feet to the Pole. May I be there! About +this time next year may I be there or there-abouts! With so many +young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my own I feel +there will be a most difficult task in making choice towards the end +and a most keen competition--and a universal lack of selfishness and +self-seeking with a complete absence of any jealous feeling in any +single one of the comparatively large number who at present stand a +chance of being on the last piece next summer. + +It will be an exciting time and the excitement has already begun in +the healthiest possible manner. I have never been thrown in with a +more unselfish lot of men--each one doing his utmost fair and square +in the most cheery manner possible. + +As late as October 15 he writes further: 'No one yet knows who will +be on the Summit party: it is to depend on condition, and fitness +when we get there.' It is told of Scott, while still in New Zealand, +that being pressed on the point, he playfully said, 'Well, I should +like to have Bill to hold my hand when we get to the Pole'; but the +Diary shows how the actual choice was made on the march. + +_Note_ 10, _p_. 86.--Campbell, Levick, and Priestly set off to the +old _Nimrod_ hut eight miles away to see if they could find a stove of +convenient size for their own hut, as well as any additional paraffin, +and in default of the latter, to kill some seals for oil. + +_Note_ 11, _p_. 92.--The management of stores and transport was +finally entrusted to Bowers. Rennick therefore remained with the +ship. A story told by Lady Scott illustrates the spirit of these +men--the expedition first, personal distinctions nowhere. It was in +New Zealand and the very day on which the order had been given for +Bowers to exchange with Rennick. In the afternoon Captain Scott and +his wife were returning from the ship to the house where they were +staying; on the hill they saw the two men coming down with arms on +each other's shoulders--a fine testimony to both. 'Upon my word,' +exclaimed Scott, 'that shows Rennick in a good light!' + +_Note_ 12, _p_. 102.--_January_ 29. The seals have been giving a lot +of trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs. The whole +teams go absolutely crazy when they sight them or get wind of them, +and there are literally hundreds along some of the cracks. Occasionally +when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble of that kind, an old +seal will pop his head up at a blowhole a few yards ahead of the team, +and they are all on top of him before one can say 'Knife!' Then one +has to rush in with the whip--and every one of the team of eleven +jumps over the harness of the dog next to him and the harnesses +become a muddle that takes much patience to unravel, not to mention +care lest the whole team should get away with the sledge and its +load and leave one behind to follow on foot at leisure. I never did +get left the whole of this depôt journey, but I was often very near +it and several times had only time to seize a strap or a part of the +sledge and be dragged along helter-skelter over everything that came +in the way till the team got sick of galloping and one could struggle +to one's feet again. One gets very wary and wide awake when one has +to manage a team of eleven dogs and a sledge load by oneself, but it +was a most interesting experience, and I had a delightful leader, +'Stareek' by name--Russian for 'Old Man,' and he was the most wise +old man. We have to use Russian terms with all our dogs. 'Ki Ki' +means go to the right, 'Chui' means go to the left, 'Esh to' means lie +down--and the remainder are mostly swear words which mean everything +else which one has to say to a dog team. Dog driving like this in the +orthodox manner is a very different thing to the beastly dog driving +we perpetrated in the Discovery days. I got to love all my team and +they got to know me well, and my old leader even now, six months +after I have had anything to do with him, never fails to come and +speak to me whenever he sees me, and he knows me and my voice ever +so far off. He is quite a ridiculous 'old man' and quite the nicest, +quietest, cleverest old dog I have ever come across. He looks in face +as if he knew all the wickedness of all the world and all its cares +and as if he were bored to death by them. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 13, _p_. 111.--_February_ 15. There were also innumerable +subsidences of the surface--the breaking of crusts over air spaces +under them, large areas of dropping 1/4 inch or so with a hushing sort +of noise or muffled report.--My leader Stareek, the nicest and wisest +old dog in both teams, thought there was a rabbit under the crust +every time one gave way close by him and he would jump sideways with +both feet on the spot and his nose in the snow. The action was like a +flash and never checked the team--it was most amusing. I have another +funny little dog, Mukaka, small but very game and a good worker. He +is paired with a fat, lazy and very greedy black dog, Nugis by name, +and in every march this sprightly little Mukaka will once or twice +notice that Nugis is not pulling and will jump over the trace, bite +Nugis like a snap, and be back again in his own place before the fat +dog knows what has happened. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 13_a_, _p_. 125.--Taking up the story from the point where +eleven of the thirteen dogs had been brought to the surface, +Mr. Cherry-Garrard's Diary records: + +This left the two at the bottom. Scott had several times wanted +to go down. Bill said to me that he hoped he wouldn't, but now he +insisted. We found the Alpine rope would reach, and then lowered Scott +down to the platform, sixty feet below. I thought it very plucky. We +then hauled the two dogs up on the rope, leaving Scott below. Scott +said the dogs were very glad to see him; they had curled up asleep--it +was wonderful they had no bones broken. + +Then Meares' dogs, which were all wandering about loose, started +fighting our team, and we all had to leave Scott and go and separate +them, which took some time. They fixed on Noogis (I.) badly. We +then hauled Scott up: it was all three of us could do--fingers a +good deal frost-bitten at the end. That was all the dogs. Scott has +just said that at one time he never hoped to get back the thirteen +or even half of them. When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to +go off exploring, but we dissuaded him. Of course it was a great +opportunity. He kept on saying, 'I wonder why this is running the +way it is--you expect to find them at right angles.' + +Scott found inside crevasse warmer than above, but had no +thermometer. It is a great wonder the whole sledge did not drop +through: the inside was like the cliff of Dover. + +_Note_ 14, _p_. 136.--_February_ 28. Meares and I led off with a dog +team each, and leaving the Barrier we managed to negotiate the first +long pressure ridge of the sea ice where the seals all lie, without +much trouble--the dogs were running well and fast and we kept on +the old tracks, still visible, by which we had come out in January, +heading a long way out to make a wide detour round the open water +off Cape Armitage, from which a very wide extent of thick black fog, +'frost smoke' as we call it, was rising on our right. This completely +obscured our view of the open water, and the only suggestion it gave +me was that the thaw pool off the Cape was much bigger than when +we passed it in January and that we should probably have to make a +detour of three or four miles round it to reach Hut Point instead of +one or two. I still thought it was not impossible to reach Hut Point +this way, so we went on, but before we had run two miles on the sea +ice we noticed that we were coming on to an area broken up by fine +thread-like cracks evidently quite fresh, and as I ran along by the +sledge I paced them and found they curved regularly at every 30 paces, +which could only mean that they were caused by a swell. This suggested +to me that the thaw pool off Cape Armitage was even bigger than I +thought and that we were getting on to ice which was breaking up, to +flow north into it. We stopped to consider, and found that the cracks +in the ice we were on were the rise and fall of a swell. Knowing that +the ice might remain like this with each piece tight against the next +only until the tide turned, I knew that we must get off it at once in +case the tide did turn in the next half-hour, when each crack would +open up into a wide lead of open water and we should find ourselves +on an isolated floe. So we at once turned and went back as fast as +possible to the unbroken sea ice. Obviously it was now unsafe to go +round to Hut Point by Cape Armitage and we therefore made for the +Gap. It was between eight and nine in the evening when we turned, +and we soon came in sight of the pony party, led as we thought by +Captain Scott. We were within 1/2 a mile of them when we hurried +right across their bows and headed straight for the Gap, making a +course more than a right angle off the course we had been on. There +was the seals' pressure ridge of sea ice between us and them, but as +I could see them quite distinctly I had no doubt they could see us, +and we were occupied more than once just then in beating the teams +off stray seals, so that we didn't go by either vary quickly or very +silently. From here we ran into the Gap, where there was some nasty +pressed-up ice to cross and large gaps and cracks by the ice foot; +but with the Alpine rope and a rush we got first one team over and +then the other without mishap on to the land ice, and were then +practically at Hut Point. However, expecting that the pony party was +following us, we ran our teams up on to level ice, picketed them, and +pitched our tent, to remain there for the night, as we had a half-mile +of rock to cross to reach the hut and the sledges would have to be +carried over this and the dogs led by hand in couples--a very long +job. Having done this we returned to the ice foot with a pick and +a shovel to improve the road up for horse party, as they would have +to come over the same bad ice we had found difficult with the dogs; +but they were nowhere to be seen close at hand as we had expected, +for they were miles out, as we soon saw, still trying to reach Hut +Point by the sea ice round Cape Armitage thaw pool, and on the ice +which was showing a working crack at 30 paces. I couldn't understand +how Scott could do such a thing, and it was only the next day that +I found out that Scott had remained behind and had sent Bowers in +charge of this pony party. Bowers, having had no experience of the +kind, did not grasp the situation for some time, and as we watched +him and his party--or as we thought Captain Scott and his party--of +ponies we saw them all suddenly realise that they were getting into +trouble and the whole party turned back; but instead of coming back +towards the Gap as we had, we saw them go due south towards the Barrier +edge and White Island. Then I thought they were all right, for I knew +they would get on to safe ice and camp for the night. We therefore +had our supper in the tent and were turning in between eleven and +twelve when I had a last look to see where they were and found they +had camped as it appeared to me on safe Barrier ice, the only safe +thing they could have done. They were now about six miles away from +us, and it was lucky that I had my Goerz glasses with me so that we +could follow their movements. Now as everything looked all right, +Meares and I turned in and slept. At 5 A.M. I awoke, and as I felt +uneasy about the party I went out and along the Gap to where we could +see their camp, and I was horrified to see that the whole of the sea +ice was now on the move and that it had broken up for miles further +than when we turned in and right back past where they had camped, +and that the pony party was now, as we could see, adrift on a floe +and separated by open water and a lot of drifting ice from the edge +of the fast Barrier ice. We could see with our glasses that they +were running the ponies and sledges over as quickly as possible from +floe to floe whenever they could, trying to draw nearer to the safe +Barrier ice again. The whole Strait was now open water to the N. of +Cape Armitage, with the frost smoke rising everywhere from it, and +full of pieces of floating ice, all going up N. to Ross Sea. + +_March_ 1. _Ash Wednesday_. The question for us was whether we could +do anything to help them. There was no boat anywhere and there was +no one to consult with, for everyone was on the floating floe as we +believed, except Teddie Evans, Forde, and Keohane, who with one pony +were on their way back from Corner Camp. So we searched the Barrier +for signs of their tent and then saw that there was a tent at Safety +Camp, which meant evidently to us that they had returned. The obvious +thing was to join up with them and go round to where the pony party +was adrift, and see if we could help them to reach the safe ice. So +without waiting for breakfast we went off six miles to this tent. We +couldn't go now by the Gap, for the ice by which we had reached land +yesterday was now broken up in every direction and all on the move +up the Strait. We had no choice now but to cross up by Crater Hill +and down by Pram Point and over the pressure ridges and so on to +the Barrier and off to Safety Camp. We couldn't possibly take a dog +sledge this way, so we walked, taking the Alpine rope to cross the +pressure ridges, which are full of crevasses. + +We got to this tent soon after noon and were astonished to find that +not Teddie Evans and his two seamen were here, but that Scott and Oates +and Gran were in it and no pony with them. Teddie Evans was still on +his way back from Corner Camp and had not arrived. It was now for the +first time that we understood how the accident had happened. When we +had left Safety Camp yesterday with the dogs, the ponies began their +march to follow us, but one of the ponies was so weak after the last +blizzard and so obviously about to die that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, +and Crean were sent on with the four capable ponies, while Scott, +Oates, and Gran remained at Safety Camp till the sick pony died, +which happened apparently that night. He was dead and buried when +we got there. We found that Scott had that morning seen the open +water up to the Barrier edge and had been in a dreadful state of +mind, thinking that Meares and I, as well as the whole pony party, +had gone out into the Strait on floating ice. He was therefore much +relieved when we arrived and he learned for the first time where the +pony party was trying to get to fast ice again. We were now given +some food, which we badly wanted, and while we were eating we saw in +the far distance a single man coming hurriedly along the edge of the +Barrier ice from the direction of the catastrophe party and towards +our camp. Gran went off on ski to meet him, and when he arrived we +found it was Crean, who had been sent off by Bowers with a note, +unencumbered otherwise, to jump from one piece of floating ice to +another until he reached the fast edge of the Barrier in order to +let Capt. Scott know what had happened. This he did, of course not +knowing that we or anyone else had seen him go adrift, and being +unable to leave the ponies and all his loaded sledges himself. Crean +had considerable difficulty and ran a pretty good risk in doing this, +but succeeded all right. There were now Scott, Oates, Crean, Gran, +Meares, and myself here and only three sleeping-bags, so the three +first remained to see if they could help Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, and +the ponies, while Meares, Gran, and I returned to look after our dogs +at Hut Point. Here we had only two sleeping-bags for the three of us, +so we had to take turns, and I remained up till 1 o'clock that night +while Gran had six hours in my bag. It was a bitterly cold job after +a long day. We had been up at 5 with nothing to eat till 1 o'clock, +and walked 14 miles. The nights are now almost dark. + +_March_ 2. A very bitter wind blowing and it was a cheerless job +waiting for six hours to get a sleep in the bag. I walked down from our +tent to the hut and watched whales blowing in the semi-darkness out +in the black water of the Strait. When we turned out in the morning +the pony party was still on floating ice but not any further from +the Barrier ice. By a merciful providence the current was taking +them rather along the Barrier edge, where they went adrift, instead +of straight out to sea. We could do nothing more for them, so we set +to our work with the dogs. It was blowing a bitter gale of wind from +the S.E. with some drift and we made a number of journeys backwards +and forwards between the Gap and the hut, carrying our tent and +camp equipment down and preparing a permanent picketing line for the +dogs. As the ice had all gone out of the Strait we were quite cut off +from any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze over, +and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up a small +fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire for an hour +or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not much wood we +felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also with matches +and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his sledge loads, +which had most of the supplies for the whole party to last twelve +men for two months. The weather had now become too thick for us to +distinguish anything in the distance and we remained in ignorance as to +the party adrift until Saturday. I had also lent my glasses to Captain +Scott. This night I had first go in the bag, and turned out to shiver +for eight hours till breakfast. There was literally nothing in the +hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm and we couldn't +run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work. There were +heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in _Discovery_ days, +and with these we built up a small inner hut to live in. + +_March_ 3. Spent the day in transferring dogs in couples from the +Gap to the hut. In the afternoon Teddie Evans and Atkinson turned up +from over the hills, having returned from their Corner Camp journey +with one horse and two seamen, all of which they had left encamped at +Castle Rock, three miles off on the hills. They naturally expected +to find Scott here and everyone else and had heard nothing of the +pony party going adrift, but having found only open water ahead of +them they turned back and came to land by Castle Rock slopes. We fed +them and I walked half-way back to Castle Rock with them. + +_March_ 4. Meares, Gran, and I walked up Ski Slope towards Castle +Rock to meet Evans's party and pilot them and the dogs safely to Hut +Point, but half-way we met Atkinson, who told us that they had now +been joined by Scott and all the catastrophe party, who were safe, +but who had lost all the ponies except one--a great blow. However, +no lives were lost and the sledge loads and stores were saved, so +Meares and I returned to Hut Point to make stables for the only two +ponies that now remained, both in wretched condition, of the eight +with which we started. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 15, _p_. 140.--_March_ 12. Thawed out some old magazines and +picture papers which were left here by the _Discovery_, and gave us +very good reading. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 16, _p_. 151.--_April_ 4. Fun over a fry I made in my new +penquin lard. It was quite a success and tasted like very bad sardine +oil. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 17, _p_. 169.--'Voyage of the Discovery,' chap. ix. 'The +question of the moment is, what has become of our boats?' Early in +the winter they were hoisted out to give more room for the awning, +and were placed in a line about one hundred yards from the ice foot +on the sea ice. The earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, +and thus for two months they remained in sight whilst we congratulated +ourselves on their security. The last gale brought more snow, +and piling it in drifts at various places in the bay, chose to be +specially generous with it in the neighbourhood of our boats, so that +afterwards they were found to be buried three or four feet beneath +the new surface. Although we had noted with interest the manner in +which the extra weight of snow in other places was pressing down the +surface of the original ice, and were even taking measurements of the +effects thus produced, we remained fatuously blind to the risks our +boats ran under such conditions. It was from no feeling of anxiety, +but rather to provide occupation, that I directed that the snow on top +of them should be removed, and it was not until we had dug down to +the first boat that the true state of affairs dawned on us. She was +found lying in a mass of slushy ice, with which also she was nearly +filled. For the moment we had a wild hope that she could be pulled up, +but by the time we could rig shears the air temperature had converted +the slush into hardened ice, and she was found to be stuck fast. At +present there is no hope of recovering any of the boats: as fast as one +could dig out the sodden ice, more sea-water would flow in and freeze +... The danger is that fresh gales bringing more snow will sink them +so far beneath the surface that we shall be unable to recover them +at all. Stuck solid in the floe they must go down with it, and every +effort must be devoted to preventing the floe from sinking. As regards +the rope, it is a familiar experience that dark objects which absorb +heat will melt their way through the snow or ice on which they lie. + +_Note_ 18, _p_. 206. + + +Ponies Presented by Schools, &c. + +School's, &c., Nickname of Pony. Name of School, &c., +name of Pony. presented by. + +Floreat Etona Snippet Eton College. +Christ's Hospital Hackenschmidt Christ's Hospital. +Westminster Blossom Westminster. +St. Paul's Michael St. Paul's. +Stubbington Weary Willie Stubbington House, + Fareham. +Bedales Christopher Bedales, Petersfield. +Lydney Victor The Institute, Lydney, + Gloucester. +West Down Jones West Down School. +Bootham Snatcher Bootham. +South Hampstead Bones South Hampstead + High School (Girls). +Altrincham Chinaman Seamen's Moss School, + Altrincham. +Rosemark Cuts Captain and Mrs. Mark Kerr + (H.M.S. _Invincible_). +Invincible James Pigg Officers and Ship's Company + of H.M.S. _Invincible_. +Snooker King Jehu J. Foster Stackhouse + and friend. +Brandon Punch The Bristol Savages. +Stoker Blucher R. Donaldson Hudson, Esq. +Manchester Nobby Manchester various +Cardiff Uncle Bill Cardiff ,, +Liverpool Davy Liverpool ,, + + +Sleeping-Bags Presented by Schools + +School's, &c., Name of traveller Name of School, &c., +name of Sleeping-bag. using Sleeping-bag. presenting Sleeping-bag. + +Cowbridge Commander Evans Cowbridge. +Wisk Hove Lieutenant Campbell The Wisk, Hove. +Taunton Seaman Williamson King's College, Taunton. +Bryn Derwen Seaman Keohane Bryn Derwen. +Grange Dr. Simpson The Grange, Folkestone. +Brighton Lieutenant Bowers Brighton Grammar School. +Cardigan Captain Scott The County School, Cardigan. +Carter-Eton Mr. Cherry-Garrard Mr. R. T. Carter, + Eton College. +Radley Mr. Ponting Stones Social School, + Radley. +Woodford Mr. Meares Woodford House. +Bramhall Seaman Abbott Bramhall Grammar School. +Louth Dr. Atkinson King Edward VI. + Grammar School, Louth. +Twyford I. Seaman Forde Twyford School +Twyford II. Mr. Day ,, ,, +Abbey House Seaman Dickason Mr. Carvey's House, + Abbey House School. +Waverley Mr. Wright Waverley Road, Birmingham. +St. John's Seaman Evans St. John's House +Leyton Ch. Stoker Lashly Leyton County High School. +St. Bede's Seaman Browning Eastbourne. +Sexeys Dr. Wilson Sexeys School. +Worksop Mr. Debenham Worksop College. +Regent Mr. Nelson Regent Street Polytechnic + Secondary School. +Trafalgar Captain Oates Trafalgar House School, + Winchester. +Altrincham Mr. Griffith Taylor Altrincham, various. +Invincible Dr. Levick Ship's Company, + H.M.S. _Invincible_. +Leeds Mr. Priestley Leeds Boys' Modern School. + + +Sledges Presented by Schools, &c. + +School's, &c., Description Name of School, &c., +name of Sledge. of Sledge. presenting Sledge. + +Amesbury Pony: Uncle Bill Amesbury, Bickley Hall, + (Cardiff) Kent. +John Bright Dog sledge Bootham. +Sherborne Pony: Snippets Sherborne House School. + (Floreat Etona) +Wimbledon Pony: Blossom King's College School, + (Westminster) Wimbledon. +Kelvinside Northern sledge Kelvinside Academy. + (man-hauled) +Pip Dog sledge Copthorne. +Christ's Hospital Dog sledge Christ's Hospital. +Hampstead Dog sledge University College School, + Hampstead. +Glasgow Pony: Snatcher High School, Glasgow. + (Bootham) +George Dixon Pony: Nobby George Dixon + (Manchester) Secondary School. +Leys Pony: Punch (Brandon) Leys School, Cambridge. +Northampton Motor sledge; No. 1 Northampton County School. +Charterhouse I. Pony: Blucher (Stoker) Charterhouse. +Charterhouse II. Western sledge Charterhouse. + (man-hauled) +Regent Northern sledge Regent Street Polytechnic + (man-hauled) Secondary School. +Sidcot Pony: Hackenschmidt Sidcot, Winscombe. + (Christ's Hospital) +Retford Pony: Michael Retford Grammar School. + (St. Paul's) +Tottenham Northern sledge Tottenham Grammar School. + (man-hauled) +Cheltenham Pony: James Pigg The College, Cheltenham. + (H.M.S. _Invincible_) Sidcot School, Old Boys. +Knight First Summit sledge + (man-hauled) +Crosby Pony: Christopher Crosby Merchant Taylors'. + (Bedales) +Grange Pony: Chinaman 'Grange,' Buxton. + (Altrincham) +Altrincham Pony: Victor (Lydney) Altrincham (various). +Probus Pony: Weary Willie Probus. + (Stubbington) +Rowntree Second Summit sledge Workmen, Rowntree's + (man-hauled) Cocoa Works. +'Invincible' I. Third Summit sledge Officers and Men, + (man-hauled) H.M.S. _Invincible_. +'Invincible' II. Pony: Jehu Do. + (Snooker King) +Eton Pony: Bones Eton College. + (South Hampstead) +Masonic Motor Sledge, No. 2 Royal Masonic School, + Bushey. + +(N.B.--The name of the pony in parentheses is the name given by the +School, &c., that presented the pony.) + + +Tents Presented by Schools + +Name of Tent. Party to which School presenting Tent. + attached. + +Fitz Roy Southern Party Fitz Roy School, + Crouch End. +Ashdown Northern Party Ashdown House, + Forest Row, Sussex. +Brighton & Hove Reserve, Cape Evans Brighton & Hove High School, + (Girls). +Bromyard Do. Grammar, Bromyard. +Marlborough Do. The College, Marlborough. +Bristol Mr. Ponting Colchester House, Bristol. + (photographic artist) +Croydon Reserve, Cape Evans Croydon High School. +Broke Hall Reserve, Cape Evans Broke Hall, Charterhouse. +Pelham Southern Party Pelham House, Folkestone. +Tollington Depôt Party Tollington School, + Muswell Hill. +St. Andrews Southern Party St. Andrews, Newcastle. +Richmond Dog Party Richmond School, Yorks. +Hymers Depôt Party Scientific Society, Hymers + College, Hull. +King Edward Do. King Edward's School. +Southport Cape Crozier Depôt Southport Physical + Training College. +Jarrow Reserve, Cape Evans Jarrow Secondary School. +Grange Do. The Grange, Buxton. +Swindon Do. Swindon. +Sir John Deane Motor Party Sir J. Deane's Grammar + School. +Llandaff Reserve, Cape Evans Llandaff. +Castleford Reserve, Cape Evans Castleford Secondary School. +Hailey Do. +Hailey. +Uxbridge Northern Party Uxbridge County School. +Stubbington Reserve, Cape Evans Stubbington House, Fareham. + + +_Note_ 19, _p_. 215.--These hints on Polar Surveying fell on +willing ears. Members of the afterguard who were not mathematically +trained plunged into the very practical study of how to work out +observations. Writing home on October 26, 1911, Scott remarks: + +'"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious face to say that +I must not count on his navigating powers. For the moment I didn't +know what he was driving at, but then I remembered that some months +ago I said that it would be a good thing for all the officers going +South to have some knowledge of navigation so that in emergency +they would know how to steer a sledge home. It appears that "Cherry" +thereupon commenced aserious and arduous course of study of abstruse +navigational problems which he found exceedingly tough and now +despaired mastering. Of course there is not one chance in a hundred +that he will ever have to consider navigation on our journey and in +that one chance the problem must be of the simplest nature, but it +makes matters much easier for me to have men who take the details of +one's work so seriously and who strive so simply and honestly to make +it successful.' + +And in Wilson's diary for October 23 comes the entry: 'Working at +latitude sights--mathematics which I hate--till bedtime. It will be +wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge journey.' + +_Note_ 20, _p_. 300.--Happily I had a biscuit with me and I held it +out to him a long way off. Luckily he spotted it and allowed me to +come up, and I got hold of his head again. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 21, _p_. 338.--December 8. I have left Nobby all my biscuits +to-night as he is to try and do a march to-morrow, and then happily +he will be shot and all of them, as their food is quite done. + +_December 9_. Nobby had all my biscuits last night and this morning, +and by the time we camped I was just ravenously hungry. It was a close +cloudy day with no air and we were ploughing along knee deep.... Thank +God the horses are now all done with and we begin the heavy work +ourselves. [Dr. Wilson's Journal.] + +_Note_ 22, _p_. 339.--_December_ 9. The end of the Beardmore Glacier +curved across the track of the Southern Party, thrusting itself into +the mass of the Barrier with vast pressure and disturbance. So far +did this ice disturbance extend, that if the travellers had taken a +bee-line to the foot of the glacier itself, they must have begun to +steer outwards 200 miles sooner. + +The Gateway was a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the +mountain rampart which flanked the last curve of the glacier. Under +the cliffs on either hand, like a moat beneath the ramparts, lay +a yawning ice-cleft or bergschrund, formed by the drawing away of +the steadily moving Barrier ice from the rocks. Across this moat and +leading up to the gap in the ramparts, the Gateway provided a solid +causeway. To climb this and descend its reverse face gave the easiest +access to the surface of the glacier. + +_Note_ 23, _p_. 359.--Return of first Southern Party from Lat. 85° +72 S. top of the Beardmore Glacier. + +Party: E. L. Atkinson, A. Cherry-Garrard, C. S. Wright, Petty Officer +Keohane. + +On the morning of December 22, 1911, we made a late start after saying +good-bye to the eight going on, and wishing them all good luck and +success. The first 11 miles was on the down-grade over the ice-falls, +and at a good pace we completed this in about four hours. Lunched, +and on, completing nearly 23 miles for the first day. At the end of the +second day we got among very bad crevasses through keeping too far to +the eastward. This delayed us slightly and we made the depot on the +third day. We reached the Lower Glacier Depot three and a half days +after. The lower part of the glacier was very badly crevassed. These +crevasses we had never seen on the way up, as they had been covered +with three to four feet of snow. All the bridges of crevasses were +concave and very wide; no doubt their normal summer condition. On +Christmas Day we made in to the lateral moraine of the Cloudmaker and +collected geological specimens. The march across the Barrier was only +remarkable for the extremely bad lights we had. For eight consecutive +days we only saw an exceedingly dim sun during three hours. Up to One +Ton Depot our marches had averaged 14.1 geographical miles a day. We +arrived at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for three +months. [E.L.A.] + +_Note_ 24, _p_. 364.--_January_ 3. Return of the second supporting +party. + +Under average conditions, the return party should have well fulfilled +Scott's cheery anticipations. Three-man teams had done excellently +on previous sledging expeditions, whether in _Discovery_ days +or as recently as the mid-winter visit to the Emperor penguins' +rookery; and the three in this party were seasoned travellers +with a skilled navigator to lead them. But a blizzard held them +up for three days before reaching the head of the glacier. They +had to press on at speed. By the time they reached the foot of the +glacier, Lieut. Evans developed symptoms of scurvy. His spring work +of surveying and sledging out to Corner Camp and the man-hauling, +with Lashly, across the Barrier after the breakdown of the motors, +had been successfully accomplished; this sequel to the Glacier and +Summit marches was an unexpected blow. Withal, he continued to pull, +while bearing the heavy strain of guiding the course. While the hauling +power thus grew less, the leader had to make up for loss of speed by +lengthening the working hours. He put his watch on an hour. With the +'turning out' signal thus advanced, the actual marching period reached +12 hours. The situation was saved, and Evans flattered himself on +his ingenuity. But the men knew it all the time, and no word said! + +At One Ton Camp he was unable to stand without the support of his +ski sticks; but with the help of his companions struggled on another +53 miles in four days. Then he could go no farther. His companions, +rejecting his suggestion that he be left in his sleeping-bag with +a supply of provisions while they pressed on for help, 'cached' +everything that could be spared, and pulled him on the sledge with +a devotion matching that of their captain years before, when he and +Wilson brought their companion Shackleton, ill and helpless, safely +home to the _Discovery_. Four days of this pulling, with a southerly +wind to help, brought them to Corner Camp; then came a heavy snowfall: +the sledge could not travel. It was a critical moment. Next day Crean +set out to tramp alone to Hut Point, 34 miles away. Lashly stayed +to nurse Lieut. Evans, and most certainly saved his life till help +came. Crean reached Hut Point after an exhausting march of 18 hours; +how the dog-team went to the rescue is told by Dr. Atkinson in the +second volume. At the _Discovery_ hut Evans was unremittingly tended +by Dr. Atkinson, and finally sent by sledge to the _Terra Nova_. It +is good to record that both Lashly and Crean have received the +Albert medal. + +_Note_ 25, _p_. 396.--At this point begins the last of Scott's +notebooks. The record of the Southern Journey is written in pencil +in three slim MS. books, some 8 inches long by 5 wide. These little +volumes are meant for artists' notebooks, and are made of tough, soft, +pliable paper which takes the pencil well. The pages, 96 in number, +are perforated so as to be detachable at need. + +In the Hut, large quarto MS. books were used for the journals, +and some of the rough notes of the earlier expeditions were recast +and written out again in them; the little books were carried on the +sledge journeys, and contain the day's notes entered very regularly +at the lunch halts and in the night camps. But in the last weeks +of the Southern Journey, when fuel and light ran short and all grew +very weary, it will be seen that Scott made his entries at lunch time +alone. They tell not of the morning's run only, but of 'yesterday.' + +The notes were written on the right-hand pages, and when the end of +the book was reached, it was 'turned' and the blank backs of the +leaves now became clean right-hand pages. The first two MS. books +are thus entirely filled: the third has only part of its pages used +and the Message to the Public is written at the reverse end. + +Inside the front cover of No. 1 is a 'ready' table to convert the +day's run of geographical miles as recorded on the sledgemeter into +statute miles, a list of the depots and their latitude, and a note +of the sledgemeter reading at Corner Camp. + +These are followed in the first pages by a list of the outward camps +and distances run as noted in the book, with special 'remarks' as to +cairns, latitude, and so forth. At the end of the book is a full list +of the cairns that marked the track out. + +Inside the front cover of No. 2 are similar entries, together with +the ages of the Polar party and a note of the error of Scott's watch. + +Inside the front cover of No. 3 are the following words: 'Diary can be +read by finder to ensure recording of Records, &c., but Diary should +be sent to my widow.' And on the first page: + + 'Send this diary to my widow. + + 'R. SCOTT.' + +The word 'wife' had been struck out and 'widow' written in. + +_Note_ 26, _p_. 398.--At this, the barrier stage of the return journey, +the Southern Party were in want of more oil than they found at the +depots. Owing partly to the severe conditions, but still more to the +delays imposed by their sick comrades, they reached the full limit +of time allowed for between depots. The cold was unexpected, and at +the same time the actual amount of oil found at the depots was less +than they had counted on. + +Under summer conditions, such as were contemplated, when there was +less cold for the men to endure, and less firing needed to melt the +snow for cooking, the fullest allowance of oil was 1 gallon to last +a unit of four men ten days, or 1/40 of a gallon a day for each man. + +The amount allotted to each unit for the return journey from the +South was apparently rather less, being 2/3 gallon for eight days, or +1/48 gallon a day for each man. But the eight days were to cover the +march from depot to depot, averaging on the Barrier some 70-80 miles, +which in normal conditions should not take more than six days. Thus +there was a substantial margin for delay by bad weather, while if +all went well the surplus afforded the fullest marching allowance. + +The same proportion for a unit of five men works out at 5/6 of a +gallon for the eight-day stage. + +Accordingly, for the return of the two supporting parties and the +Southern Party, two tins of a gallon each were left at each depot, +each unit of four men being entitled to 2/3 of a gallon, and the +units of three and five men in proportion. + +The return journey on the Summit had been made at good speed, taking +twenty-one days as against twenty-seven going out, the last part of it, +from Three Degree to Upper Glacier Depot, taking nearly eight marches +as against ten, showing the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans +and Oates began to feel the cold; from Upper Glacier to Lower Glacier +Depot ten marches as against eleven, a stage broken by the Mid Glacier +Depot of three and a half day's provisions at the sixth march. Here, +there was little gain, partly owing to the conditions, but more to +Evans' gradual collapse. + +The worst time came on the Barrier; from Lower Glacier to Southern +Barrier Depot (51 miles), 6 1/2 marches as against 5 (two of which +were short marches, so that the 5 might count as an easy 4 in point of +distance);from Southern Barrier to Mid Barrier Depot (82 miles), 6 1/2 +marches as against 5 1/2; from Mid Barrier to Mt. Hooper (70 miles), +8 as against 4 3/4, while the last remaining 8 marches represent but +4 on the outward journey. (See table on next page.) + +At to the cause of the shortage, the tins of oil at the depot +had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold. The oil +was specially volatile, and in the warmth of the sun (for the tins +were regularly set in an accessible place on the top of the cairns) +tended to become vapour and escape through the stoppers even without +damage to the tins. This process was much accelerated by reason that +the leather washers about the stoppers had perished in the great +cold. Dr. Atkinson gives two striking examples of this. + +1. Eight one-gallon tins in a wooden case, intended for a depot at +Cape Crozier, had been put out in September 1911. They were snowed up; +and when examined in December 1912 showed three tins full, three empty, +one a third full, and one two-thirds full. + +2. When the search party reached One Ton Camp in November 1912 they +found that some of the food, stacked in a canvas 'tank' at the foot +of the cairn, was quite oily from the spontaneous leakage of the tins +seven feet above it on the top of the cairn. + +The tins at the depôts awaiting the Southern Party had of course been +opened and the due amount to be taken measured out by the supporting +parties on their way back. However carefully re-stoppered, they +were still liable to the unexpected evaporation and leakage already +described. Hence, without any manner of doubt, the shortage which +struck the Southern Party so hard. + +_Note_ 27, _p_. 409.--The Fatal Blizzard. Mr. Frank Wild, who led one +wing of Dr. Mawson's Expedition on the northern coast of the Antarctic +continent, Queen Mary's Land, many miles to the west of the Ross Sea, +writes that 'from March 21 for a period of nine days we were kept in +camp by the same blizzard which proved fatal to Scott and his gallant +companions' (Times, June 2, 1913). Blizzards, however, are so local +that even when, as in this case, two are nearly contemporaneous, it +is not safe to conclude that they are part of the same current of air. + + +TABLE OF DISTANCES showing the length of the Outward and Return +Marches on the Barrier from and to One Ton Camp. + +3 miles to each sub-division + + +Date Camp No. Note. Distance. + +Nov. 15, 16 12 One Ton Camp 15 +Nov. 17 13 15 +Nov. 18 14 15 +Nov. 19 15 15 +Nov. 20 16 15 +Nov. 21 17 Mt. Hooper Depôt 15 +Nov. 22 18 15 +Nov. 23 19 15 +Nov. 24 20 15 +Nov. 25 21 Mid Barrier Depôt 15 +Nov. 26 22 15 +Nov. 27 23 +Nov. 28 24 15 +Nov. 29 25 15 +Nov. 30 26 15 +Dec. 1 27 Southern Barrier Depôt 15 +Dec. 2 28 11 1/2 +Dec. 3 29 13 +Dec. 4- 30 8 +Dec. 9 31 Shambles 4 +Dec. 10 32 Lower Glacier D + +Date Camp No. Note. Distance. + +Feb. 17 R. 31 4 +Feb. 18 R. 32 4.3 +Feb. 19 R. 33 7 +Feb. 20 R. 34 8 1/2 +Feb. 21 R. 35 11 1/2 +Feb. 22 R. 36 8 1/2 +Feb. 23 R. 37 6 1/2 +Feb. 24 R. 38 11.4 +Feb. 25 R. 39 11 1/2 +Feb. 26 R. 40 12.2 +Feb. 27 R. 41 11 +Feb. 28 R. 42 Lunch, 13 + to Depôt 11 1/2 +Feb. 29 R. 43 Lunch, under 3 + to Depôt +Mar. 1 R. 44 6 +Mar. 2 R. 45 Nearly 10 +Mar. 3 R. 46 Lunch, 42 + to Depôt 9 +Mar. 4 R. 47 9 1/2 +Mar. 5 R. 48. 27 to Depôt 6 1/2 +Mar. 6 R. 49 7 +Mar. 7 R. 50 Lunch, 8 1/2 + to Depôt 4 1/2 +Mar. 8 R. 51 +Mar. 9-10 R. 52 6.9 +Mar. 11 R. 53 7 +Mar. 12 R. 54 47 to Depôt 5 1/4 +Mar. 13 R. 55 6 +Mar. 14 R. 56 4 +Mar. 15 R. 57 Blizz'd + Lunch, 25 1/2 + to Depôt +Mar. 17 R. 58 Lunch, 21 + to Depôt +Mar. 18 R. 59 +Mar. 19 R. 60 The Last Camp + + +The numbers are Statute Miles. + + +Marches + + Out Return +Lower Glacier to Southern Barrier Depôt 5 6 1/2 +Southern Barrier to Mid Barrier Depôt 5 1/2 6 1/2 +Mid Barrier to Mount Hooper 4 3/4 8 +Thereafter 4 8 + + +It will be noted that of the first 15 Return Marches on the Barrier, +5 are 11 1/2 miles and upwards, and 5 are 8 1/2 to 10. + + + + + + + + +NOTES + +[1] It was continued a night and a day. + +[2] Captain Oates' nickname. + +[3] A species of shrimp on which the seabirds feed. + +[4] The party headed by Lieutenant Campbell, which, being unable to +disembark on King Edward's Land, was ultimately taken by the Terra +Nova to the north part of Victoria Land, and so came to be known as +the Northern Party. The Western Party here mentioned includes all +who had their base at Cape Evans: the depots to be laid were for the +subsequent expedition to the Pole. + +[5] The extreme S. point of the Island, a dozen miles farther, on +one of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the _Discovery_ hut. + +[6] Here were the meteorological instruments. + +[7] Cape Evans, which lay on the S. side of the new hut. + +[8] The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication +between the new station at C. Evans and the Discovery hut at Hut Point, +for the rugged mountains and crevassed ice slopes of Ross Island +forbade a passage by land. The 'road' afforded level going below +the cliffs of the ice-foot, except where disturbed by the descending +glacier, and there it was necessary to cross the body of the glacier +itself. It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays and the +sea-ice along the coast, which only stayed fast for the season. + +Thus it was of the utmost importance to get safely over the precarious +part of the 'road' before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To +wait until all the ice should go out and enable the ship to sail to +Hut Point would have meant long uncertainty and delay. As it happened, +the Road broke up the day after the party had gone by. + +[9] Viz. Atkinson and Crean, who were left at Safety Camp; E. Evans, +Forde and Keohane, who returned with the weaker ponies on Feb. 13; +Meares and Wilson with the dog teams; and Scott, Bowers, Oates, +Cherry-Garrard, and Lashly. + +[10] The favorite nickname for Bowers. + +[11] Professor T. Edgeworth David, C.M.G., F.R.S., of Sydney +University, who was the geologist to Shackleton's party. + +[12] This was done in order to measure on the next visit the results +of wind and snow. + +[13] Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard now went back swiftly +with the dog teams, to look after the return parties at Safety +Camp. Having found all satisfactory, Scott left Wilson and Meares there +with the dogs, and marched back with the rest to Corner Camp, taking +more stores to the depot and hoping to meet Bowers rearguard party. + +[14] The party had made a short cut where in going out with the ponies +they had made an elbow, and so had passed within this 'danger line.' + +[15] Bowers, Oates, and Gran, with the five ponies. The two days had +after all brought them to Safety Camp. + +[16] This was at a point on the Barrier, one-half mile from the edge, +in a S.S.E. direction from Hut Point. + +[17] I.e. by land, now that the sea ice was out. + +[18] Because the seals would cease to come up. + +[19] As a step towards 'getting these things clearer' in his mind +two spare pages of the diary are filled with neat tables, showing +the main classes into which rocks are divided, and their natural +subdivisions--the sedimentary, according to mode of deposition, +chemical, organic, or aqueous; the metamorphic, according to the kind +of rock altered by heat; the igneous, according to their chemical +composition. + +[20] Viz, Simpson, Nelson, Day, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, +Anton, and Demetri. + +[21] See Chapter X. + +[22] The white dogs. + +[23] I.e. in relation to a sledging ration. + +[24] Officially the ponies were named after the several schools +which had subscribed for their purchase: but sailors are inveterate +nicknamers, and the unofficial humour prevailed. See Appendix, Note 18. + +[25] Captain Scott's judgment was not at fault. + +[26] I.e. a crack which leaves the ice free to move with the movements +of the sea beneath. + +[27] This was the gale that tore away the roofing of their hut, +and left them with only their sleeping-bags for shelter. See p. 365. + +[28] Prof. T. Edgeworth David, of Sydney University, who accompanied +Shackleton's expedition as geologist. + +[29] See Vol. II., Dr. Simpson's Meteorological Report. + +[30] This form of motor traction had been tested on several occasions; +in 1908 at Lauteret in the Alps, with Dr. Charcot the Polar explorer: +in 1909 and again 1910 in Norway. After each trial the sledges were +brought back and improved. + +[31] The Southern Barrier Depôt. + +[32] Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp. + +[33] While Day and Hooper, of the ex-motor party, had turned back on +November 24, and Meares and Demetri with the dogs ascended above the +Lower Glacier Depot before returning on December 11, the Southern +Party and its supports were organised successively as follows: + + + December 10, leaving Shambles Camp-- + _Sledge_ 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans. + _Sledge_ 2. E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright, Lashly. + _Sledge_ 3. Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean, Keohane. + December 21 at Upper Glacier Depôt-- + _Sledge_ 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates, P.O. Evans. + _Sledge_ 2. E. Evans, Bowers, Crean, Lashly, while Atkinson, + Wright, Cherry-Garrard and Keohane returned. + January 4, 150 miles from the Pole-- + _Sledge_ 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates, Bowers, P.O. Evans; + while E. Evans, Crean, and Lashly returned. + + +[34] The Lower Glacier Depot. + +[35] In the pocket journal, only one side of each page had been +written on. Coming to the end of it, Scott reversed the book, and +continued his entries on the empty backs of the pages. + +[36] A unit of food means a week's supplies for four men. + +[37] A number preceded by R. marks the camps on the return journey. + +[38] Still over 150 miles away. They had marched 7 miles on the +homeward track the first afternoon, 18 1/2 the second day. + +[39] Three Degree Depôt. + +[40] Left on December 31. + +[41] The Upper Glacier Depôt, under Mount Darwin, where the first +supporting party turned back. + +[42] The result of concussion in the morning's fall. + +[43] The Lower Glacier Depot. + +[44] Sledges were left at the chief depôts to replace damaged ones. + +[45] It will be remembered that he was already stricken with scurvy. + +[46] For the last six days the dogs had been waiting at One Ton Camp +under Cherry-Garrard and Demetri. The supporting party had come out +as arranged on the chance of hurrying the Pole travellers back over +the last stages of their journey in time to catch the ship. Scott had +dated his probable return to Hut Point anywhere between mid-March +and early April. Calculating from the speed of the other return +parties, Dr. Atkinson looked for him to reach One Ton Camp between +March 3 and 10. Here Cherry-Garrard met four days of blizzard; then +there remained little more than enough dog food to bring the teams +home. He could either push south one more march and back, at imminent +risk of missing Scott on the way, or stay two days at the Camp where +Scott was bound to come, if he came at all. His wise decision, his +hardships and endurance Ove recounted by Dr. Atkinson in Vol. II., +'The Last Year at Cape Evans.' + +[47] The 60th camp from the Pole. diff --git a/data/sierra.txt b/data/sierra.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..08596cb --- /dev/null +++ b/data/sierra.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6070 @@ +THE WRITINGS OF JOHN MUIR + +Sierra Edition + +VOLUME II + +[Illustration: _The Yosemite Falls, Yosemite National Park_] + + + + +MY FIRST SUMMER IN THE SIERRA + +BY + +JOHN MUIR + +[Illustration] + +BOSTON AND NEW YORK + +HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY + +1917 + + + + +COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY JOHN MUIR + +COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY + +ALL RIGHTS RESERVED + + + + +TO + +THE SIERRA CLUB OF CALIFORNIA + +FAITHFUL DEFENDER OF THE PEOPLE'S PLAYGROUNDS + + + + +CONTENTS + + I. THROUGH THE FOOTHILLS WITH A FLOCK OF SHEEP 3 + + II. IN CAMP ON THE NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED 32 + + III. A BREAD FAMINE 75 + + IV. TO THE HIGH MOUNTAINS 86 + + V. THE YOSEMITE 115 + + VI. MOUNT HOFFMAN AND LAKE TENAYA 149 + + VII. A STRANGE EXPERIENCE 178 + + VIII. THE MONO TRAIL 195 + + IX. BLOODY CAÑON AND MONO LAKE 214 + + X. THE TUOLUMNE CAMP 232 + + XI. BACK TO THE LOWLANDS 254 + + INDEX 265 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +THE YOSEMITE FALLS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK _Frontispiece_ + + The total height of the three falls is 2600 feet. The upper fall is + about 1600 feet, and the lower about 400 feet. Mr. Muir was + probably the only man who ever looked down into the heart of the + fall from the narrow ledge of rocks near the top. + + _From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_ + +SHEEP IN THE MOUNTAINS 8 + + Since the establishment of the Yosemite National Park the pasturing + of sheep has not been allowed within its boundaries, and as a + result the grasses and wild flowers have recovered very much of + their former luxuriance. The flock of sheep here photographed were + feeding near Alger Lake on the slope of Blacktop Mountain, at an + altitude of about 10,000 feet and just beyond the eastern boundary + of the Park. + + _From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason_ + +A SILVER FIR, OR RED FIR (_Abies magnifica_) 90 + + This tree was found in an extensive forest of red fir above the + Middle Fork of King's River. It was estimated to be about 250 feet + high. Mr. Muir, on being shown the photograph, remarked that it was + one of the finest and most mature specimens of the red fir that he + had ever seen. + + _From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason_ + +THE NORTH AND SOUTH DOMES 122 + + The great rock on the right is the South Dome, commonly called the + Half-Dome, according to Mr. Muir "the most beautiful and most + sublime of all the Yosemite rocks." The one on the left is the + North Dome, while in the center is the Washington Column. + + _From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_ + +CATHEDRAL PEAK 154 + + This view was taken from a point on the Sunrise Trail just south of + the Peak, on a day when the "cloud mountains" so inspiring to Mr. + Muir were much in evidence. + + _From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason_ + +THE VERNAL FALLS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 182 + + _From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_ + +THE HAPPY ISLES, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 190 + + This is the main stream of the Merced River after passing over the + Nevada and Vernal Falls and receiving the Illilouette tributary. + + _From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_ + +THE THREE BROTHERS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 208 + + The highest rock, called Eagle Point, is 7900 feet above the sea, + and 3900 feet above the floor of the valley. + + _From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_ + +MAP OF THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 264 + + _From the United States Geological Survey_ + + +FROM SKETCHES MADE BY THE AUTHOR IN 1869 + + HORSESHOE BEND, MERCED RIVER 14 + + ON SECOND BENCH. EDGE OF THE MAIN FOREST + BELT, ABOVE COULTERVILLE, NEAR GREELEY'S + MILL 14 + + CAMP, NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED 38 + + MOUNTAIN LIVE OAK (_Quercus chrysolepis_), EIGHT + FEET IN DIAMETER 38 + + SUGAR PINE 50 + + DOUGLAS SQUIRREL OBSERVING BROTHER MAN 68 + + DIVIDE BETWEEN THE TUOLUMNE AND THE MERCED, + BELOW HAZEL GREEN 86 + + TRACK OF SINGING DANCING GRASSHOPPER IN THE + AIR OVER NORTH DOME 140 + + ABIES MAGNIFICA (MOUNT CLARK, TOP OF SOUTH + DOME, MOUNT STARR KING) 142 + + ILLUSTRATING GROWTH OF NEW PINE FROM BRANCH + BELOW THE BREAK OF AXIS OF SNOW-CRUSHED + TREE 144 + + APPROACH OF DOME CREEK TO YOSEMITE 150 + + JUNIPERS IN TENAYA CAÑON 164 + + VIEW OF TENAYA LAKE SHOWING CATHEDRAL PEAK 196 + + ONE OF THE TRIBUTARY FOUNTAINS OF THE TUOLUMNE + CAÑON WATERS, ON THE NORTH SIDE OF + THE HOFFMAN RANGE 196 + + GLACIER MEADOW, ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE + TUOLUMNE, 9500 FEET ABOVE THE SEA 204 + + MONO LAKE AND VOLCANIC CONES, LOOKING SOUTH 228 + + HIGHEST MONO VOLCANIC CONES (NEAR VIEW) 228 + + ONE OF THE HIGHEST MOUNT RITTER FOUNTAINS 240 + + GLACIER MEADOW STREWN WITH MORAINE BOULDERS, + 10,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA (NEAR MOUNT + DANA) 248 + + FRONT OF CATHEDRAL PEAK 248 + + VIEW OF UPPER TUOLUMNE VALLEY 252 + + + + +MY FIRST SUMMER IN THE SIERRA + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THROUGH THE FOOTHILLS WITH A FLOCK OF SHEEP + + +In the great Central Valley of California there are only two +seasons--spring and summer. The spring begins with the first rainstorm, +which usually falls in November. In a few months the wonderful flowery +vegetation is in full bloom, and by the end of May it is dead and dry +and crisp, as if every plant had been roasted in an oven. + +Then the lolling, panting flocks and herds are driven to the high, cool, +green pastures of the Sierra. I was longing for the mountains about this +time, but money was scarce and I couldn't see how a bread supply was to +be kept up. While I was anxiously brooding on the bread problem, so +troublesome to wanderers, and trying to believe that I might learn to +live like the wild animals, gleaning nourishment here and there from +seeds, berries, etc., sauntering and climbing in joyful independence of +money or baggage, Mr. Delaney, a sheep-owner, for whom I had worked a +few weeks, called on me, and offered to engage me to go with his +shepherd and flock to the headwaters of the Merced and Tuolumne +rivers--the very region I had most in mind. I was in the mood to accept +work of any kind that would take me into the mountains whose treasures I +had tasted last summer in the Yosemite region. The flock, he explained, +would be moved gradually higher through the successive forest belts as +the snow melted, stopping for a few weeks at the best places we came to. +These I thought would be good centers of observation from which I might +be able to make many telling excursions within a radius of eight or ten +miles of the camps to learn something of the plants, animals, and rocks; +for he assured me that I should be left perfectly free to follow my +studies. I judged, however, that I was in no way the right man for the +place, and freely explained my shortcomings, confessing that I was +wholly unacquainted with the topography of the upper mountains, the +streams that would have to be crossed, and the wild sheep-eating +animals, etc.; in short that, what with bears, coyotes, rivers, cañons, +and thorny, bewildering chaparral, I feared that half or more of his +flock would be lost. Fortunately these shortcomings seemed +insignificant to Mr. Delaney. The main thing, he said, was to have a man +about the camp whom he could trust to see that the shepherd did his +duty, and he assured me that the difficulties that seemed so formidable +at a distance would vanish as we went on; encouraging me further by +saying that the shepherd would do all the herding, that I could study +plants and rocks and scenery as much as I liked, and that he would +himself accompany us to the first main camp and make occasional visits +to our higher ones to replenish our store of provisions and see how we +prospered. Therefore I concluded to go, though still fearing, when I saw +the silly sheep bouncing one by one through the narrow gate of the home +corral to be counted, that of the two thousand and fifty many would +never return. + +I was fortunate in getting a fine St. Bernard dog for a companion. His +master, a hunter with whom I was slightly acquainted, came to me as soon +as he heard that I was going to spend the summer in the Sierra and +begged me to take his favorite dog, Carlo, with me, for he feared that +if he were compelled to stay all summer on the plains the fierce heat +might be the death of him. "I think I can trust you to be kind to him," +he said, "and I am sure he will be good to you. He knows all about the +mountain animals, will guard the camp, assist in managing the sheep, +and in every way be found able and faithful." Carlo knew we were talking +about him, watched our faces, and listened so attentively that I fancied +he understood us. Calling him by name, I asked him if he was willing to +go with me. He looked me in the face with eyes expressing wonderful +intelligence, then turned to his master, and after permission was given +by a wave of the hand toward me and a farewell patting caress, he +quietly followed me as if he perfectly understood all that had been said +and had known me always. + + * * * * * + +_June 3, 1869._ This morning provisions, camp-kettles, blankets, +plant-press, etc., were packed on two horses, the flock headed for the +tawny foothills, and away we sauntered in a cloud of dust: Mr. Delaney, +bony and tall, with sharply hacked profile like Don Quixote, leading the +pack-horses, Billy, the proud shepherd, a Chinaman and a Digger Indian +to assist in driving for the first few days in the brushy foothills, and +myself with notebook tied to my belt. + +The home ranch from which we set out is on the south side of the +Tuolumne River near French Bar, where the foothills of metamorphic +gold-bearing slates dip below the stratified deposits of the Central +Valley. We had not gone more than a mile before some of the old leaders +of the flock showed by the eager, inquiring way they ran and looked +ahead that they were thinking of the high pastures they had enjoyed last +summer. Soon the whole flock seemed to be hopefully excited, the mothers +calling their lambs, the lambs replying in tones wonderfully human, +their fondly quavering calls interrupted now and then by hastily +snatched mouthfuls of withered grass. Amid all this seeming babel of +baas as they streamed over the hills every mother and child recognized +each other's voice. In case a tired lamb, half asleep in the smothering +dust, should fail to answer, its mother would come running back through +the flock toward the spot whence its last response was heard, and +refused to be comforted until she found it, the one of a thousand, +though to our eyes and ears all seemed alike. + +The flock traveled at the rate of about a mile an hour, outspread in the +form of an irregular triangle, about a hundred yards wide at the base, +and a hundred and fifty yards long, with a crooked, ever-changing point +made up of the strongest foragers, called the "leaders," which, with the +most active of those scattered along the ragged sides of the "main +body," hastily explored nooks in the rocks and bushes for grass and +leaves; the lambs and feeble old mothers dawdling in the rear were +called the "tail end." + +[Illustration: _Sheep in the Mountains_] + +About noon the heat was hard to bear; the poor sheep panted pitifully +and tried to stop in the shade of every tree they came to, while we +gazed with eager longing through the dim burning glare toward the snowy +mountains and streams, though not one was in sight. The landscape is +only wavering foothills roughened here and there with bushes and trees +and outcropping masses of slate. The trees, mostly the blue oak +(_Quercus Douglasii_), are about thirty to forty feet high, with pale +blue-green leaves and white bark, sparsely planted on the thinnest soil +or in crevices of rocks beyond the reach of grass fires. The slates in +many places rise abruptly through the tawny grass in sharp +lichen-covered slabs like tombstones in deserted burying-grounds. With +the exception of the oak and four or five species of manzanita and +ceanothus, the vegetation of the foothills is mostly the same as that of +the plains. I saw this region in the early spring, when it was a +charming landscape garden full of birds and bees and flowers. Now the +scorching weather makes everything dreary. The ground is full of cracks, +lizards glide about on the rocks, and ants in amazing numbers, whose +tiny sparks of life only burn the brighter with the heat, fairly +quiver with unquenchable energy as they run in long lines to fight and +gather food. How it comes that they do not dry to a crisp in a few +seconds' exposure to such sun-fire is marvelous. A few rattlesnakes lie +coiled in out-of-the-way places, but are seldom seen. Magpies and crows, +usually so noisy, are silent now, standing in mixed flocks on the ground +beneath the best shade trees, with bills wide open and wings drooped, +too breathless to speak; the quails also are trying to keep in the shade +about the few tepid alkaline water-holes; cottontail rabbits are running +from shade to shade among the ceanothus brush, and occasionally the +long-eared hare is seen cantering gracefully across the wider openings. + +After a short noon rest in a grove, the poor dust-choked flock was again +driven ahead over the brushy hills, but the dim roadway we had been +following faded away just where it was most needed, compelling us to +stop to look about us and get our bearings. The Chinaman seemed to think +we were lost, and chattered in pidgin English concerning the abundance +of "litty stick" (chaparral), while the Indian silently scanned the +billowy ridges and gulches for openings. Pushing through the thorny +jungle, we at length discovered a road trending toward Coulterville, +which we followed until an hour before sunset, when we reached a dry +ranch and camped for the night. + +Camping in the foothills with a flock of sheep is simple and easy, but +far from pleasant. The sheep were allowed to pick what they could find +in the neighborhood until after sunset, watched by the shepherd, while +the others gathered wood, made a fire, cooked, unpacked and fed the +horses, etc. About dusk the weary sheep were gathered on the highest +open spot near camp, where they willingly bunched close together, and +after each mother had found her lamb and suckled it, all lay down and +required no attention until morning. + +Supper was announced by the call, "Grub!" Each with a tin plate helped +himself direct from the pots and pans while chatting about such camp +studies as sheep-feed, mines, coyotes, bears, or adventures during the +memorable gold days of pay dirt. The Indian kept in the background, +saying never a word, as if he belonged to another species. The meal +finished, the dogs were fed, the smokers smoked by the fire, and under +the influences of fullness and tobacco the calm that settled on their +faces seemed almost divine, something like the mellow meditative glow +portrayed on the countenances of saints. Then suddenly, as if awakening +from a dream, each with a sigh or a grunt knocked the ashes out of his +pipe, yawned, gazed at the fire a few moments, said, "Well, I believe +I'll turn in," and straightway vanished beneath his blankets. The fire +smouldered and flickered an hour or two longer; the stars shone +brighter; coons, coyotes, and owls stirred the silence here and there, +while crickets and hylas made a cheerful, continuous music, so fitting +and full that it seemed a part of the very body of the night. The only +discordance came from a snoring sleeper, and the coughing sheep with +dust in their throats. In the starlight the flock looked like a big gray +blanket. + +_June 4._ The camp was astir at daybreak; coffee, bacon, and beans +formed the breakfast, followed by quick dish-washing and packing. A +general bleating began about sunrise. As soon as a mother ewe arose, her +lamb came bounding and bunting for its breakfast, and after the thousand +youngsters had been suckled the flock began to nibble and spread. The +restless wethers with ravenous appetites were the first to move, but +dared not go far from the main body. Billy and the Indian and the +Chinaman kept them headed along the weary road, and allowed them to pick +up what little they could find on a breadth of about a quarter of a +mile. But as several flocks had already gone ahead of us, scarce a leaf, +green or dry, was left; therefore the starving flock had to be hurried +on over the bare, hot hills to the nearest of the green pastures, about +twenty or thirty miles from here. + +The pack-animals were led by Don Quixote, a heavy rifle over his +shoulder intended for bears and wolves. This day has been as hot and +dusty as the first, leading over gently sloping brown hills, with mostly +the same vegetation, excepting the strange-looking Sabine pine (_Pinus +Sabiniana_), which here forms small groves or is scattered among the +blue oaks. The trunk divides at a height of fifteen or twenty feet into +two or more stems, outleaning or nearly upright, with many straggling +branches and long gray needles, casting but little shade. In general +appearance this tree looks more like a palm than a pine. The cones are +about six or seven inches long, about five in diameter, very heavy, and +last long after they fall, so that the ground beneath the trees is +covered with them. They make fine resiny, light-giving camp-fires, next +to ears of Indian corn the most beautiful fuel I've ever seen. The nuts, +the Don tells me, are gathered in large quantities by the Digger Indians +for food. They are about as large and hard-shelled as hazelnuts--food +and fire fit for the gods from the same fruit. + +_June 5._ This morning a few hours after setting out with the crawling +sheep-cloud, we gained the summit of the first well-defined bench on the +mountain-flank at Pino Blanco. The Sabine pines interest me greatly. +They are so airy and strangely palm-like I was eager to sketch them, and +was in a fever of excitement without accomplishing much. I managed to +halt long enough, however, to make a tolerably fair sketch of Pino +Blanco peak from the southwest side, where there is a small field and +vineyard irrigated by a stream that makes a pretty fall on its way down +a gorge by the roadside. + +After gaining the open summit of this first bench, feeling the natural +exhilaration due to the slight elevation of a thousand feet or so, and +the hopes excited concerning the outlook to be obtained, a magnificent +section of the Merced Valley at what is called Horseshoe Bend came full +in sight--a glorious wilderness that seemed to be calling with a +thousand songful voices. Bold, down-sweeping slopes, feathered with +pines and clumps of manzanita with sunny, open spaces between them, make +up most of the foreground; the middle and background present fold beyond +fold of finely modeled hills and ridges rising into mountain-like masses +in the distance, all covered with a shaggy growth of chaparral, mostly +adenostoma, planted so marvelously close and even that it looks like +soft, rich plush without a single tree or bare spot. As far as the eye +can reach it extends, a heaving, swelling sea of green as regular and +continuous as that produced by the heaths of Scotland. The sculpture of +the landscape is as striking in its main lines as in its lavish richness +of detail; a grand congregation of massive heights with the river +shining between, each carved into smooth, graceful folds without leaving +a single rocky angle exposed, as if the delicate fluting and ridging +fashioned out of metamorphic slates had been carefully sandpapered. The +whole landscape showed design, like man's noblest sculptures. How +wonderful the power of its beauty! Gazing awe-stricken, I might have +left everything for it. Glad, endless work would then be mine tracing +the forces that have brought forth its features, its rocks and plants +and animals and glorious weather. Beauty beyond thought everywhere, +beneath, above, made and being made forever. I gazed and gazed and +longed and admired until the dusty sheep and packs were far out of +sight, made hurried notes and a sketch, though there was no need of +either, for the colors and lines and expression of this divine +landscape-countenance are so burned into mind and heart they surely can +never grow dim. + +[Illustration: HORSESHOE BEND, MERCED RIVER] + +[Illustration: ON SECOND BENCH. EDGE OF THE MAIN FOREST BELT ABOVE +COULTERVILLE, NEAR GREELEY'S MILL] + +The evening of this charmed day is cool, calm, cloudless, and full of a +kind of lightning I have never seen before--white glowing cloud-shaped +masses down among the trees and bushes, like quick-throbbing fireflies +in the Wisconsin meadows rather than the so-called "wild fire." The +spreading hairs of the horses' tails and sparks from our blankets show +how highly charged the air is. + +_June 6._ We are now on what may be called the second bench or plateau +of the Range, after making many small ups and downs over belts of +hill-waves, with, of course, corresponding changes in the vegetation. In +open spots many of the lowland compositæ are still to be found, and some +of the Mariposa tulips and other conspicuous members of the lily family; +but the characteristic blue oak of the foothills is left below, and its +place is taken by a fine large species (_Quercus Californica_) with +deeply lobed deciduous leaves, picturesquely divided trunk, and broad, +massy, finely lobed and modeled head. Here also at a height of about +twenty-five hundred feet we come to the edge of the great coniferous +forest, made up mostly of yellow pine with just a few sugar pines. We +are now in the mountains and they are in us, kindling enthusiasm, making +every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us. Our +flesh-and-bone tabernacle seems transparent as glass to the beauty about +us, as if truly an inseparable part of it, thrilling with the air and +trees, streams and rocks, in the waves of the sun,--a part of all +nature, neither old nor young, sick nor well, but immortal. Just now I +can hardly conceive of any bodily condition dependent on food or breath +any more than the ground or the sky. How glorious a conversion, so +complete and wholesome it is, scarce memory enough of old bondage days +left as a standpoint to view it from! In this newness of life we seem to +have been so always. + +Through a meadow opening in the pine woods I see snowy peaks about the +headwaters of the Merced above Yosemite. How near they seem and how +clear their outlines on the blue air, or rather _in_ the blue air; for +they seem to be saturated with it. How consuming strong the invitation +they extend! Shall I be allowed to go to them? Night and day I'll pray +that I may, but it seems too good to be true. Some one worthy will go, +able for the Godful work, yet as far as I can I must drift about these +love-monument mountains, glad to be a servant of servants in so holy a +wilderness. + +Found a lovely lily (_Calochortus albus_) in a shady adenostoma thicket +near Coulterville, in company with _Adiantum Chilense_. It is white with +a faint purplish tinge inside at the base of the petals, a most +impressive plant, pure as a snow crystal, one of the plant saints that +all must love and be made so much the purer by it every time it is seen. +It puts the roughest mountaineer on his good behavior. With this plant +the whole world would seem rich though none other existed. It is not +easy to keep on with the camp cloud while such plant people are standing +preaching by the wayside. + +During the afternoon we passed a fine meadow bounded by stately pines, +mostly the arrowy yellow pine, with here and there a noble sugar pine, +its feathery arms outspread above the spires of its companion species in +marked contrast; a glorious tree, its cones fifteen to twenty inches +long, swinging like tassels at the ends of the branches with superb +ornamental effect. Saw some logs of this species at the Greeley Mill. +They are round and regular as if turned in a lathe, excepting the butt +cuts, which have a few buttressing projections. The fragrance of the +sugary sap is delicious and scents the mill and lumber yard. How +beautiful the ground beneath this pine thickly strewn with slender +needles and grand cones, and the piles of cone-scales, seed-wings and +shells around the instep of each tree where the squirrels have been +feasting! They get the seeds by cutting off the scales at the base in +regular order, following their spiral arrangement, and the two seeds at +the base of each scale, a hundred or two in a cone, must make a good +meal. The yellow pine cones and those of most other species and genera +are held upside down on the ground by the Douglas squirrel, and turned +around gradually until stripped, while he sits usually with his back to +a tree, probably for safety. Strange to say, he never seems to get +himself smeared with gum, not even his paws or whiskers--and how cleanly +and beautiful in color the cone-litter kitchen-middens he makes. + +We are now approaching the region of clouds and cool streams. +Magnificent white cumuli appeared about noon above the Yosemite +region,--floating fountains refreshing the glorious wilderness,--sky +mountains in whose pearly hills and dales the streams take their +rise,--blessing with cooling shadows and rain. No rock landscape is more +varied in sculpture, none more delicately modeled than these landscapes +of the sky; domes and peaks rising, swelling, white as finest marble +and firmly outlined, a most impressive manifestation of world building. +Every rain-cloud, however fleeting, leaves its mark, not only on trees +and flowers whose pulses are quickened, and on the replenished streams +and lakes, but also on the rocks are its marks engraved whether we can +see them or not. + +I have been examining the curious and influential shrub _Adenostoma +fasciculata_, first noticed about Horseshoe Bend. It is very abundant on +the lower slopes of the second plateau near Coulterville, forming a +dense, almost impenetrable growth that looks dark in the distance. It +belongs to the rose family, is about six or eight feet high, has small +white flowers in racemes eight to twelve inches long, round needle-like +leaves, and reddish bark that becomes shreddy when old. It grows on +sun-beaten slopes, and like grass is often swept away by running fires, +but is quickly renewed from the roots. Any trees that may have +established themselves in its midst are at length killed by these fires, +and this no doubt is the secret of the unbroken character of its broad +belts. A few manzanitas, which also rise again from the root after +consuming fires, make out to dwell with it, also a few bush +compositæ--baccharis and linosyris, and some liliaceous plants, mostly +calochortus and brodiæa, with deepset bulbs safe from fire. A multitude +of birds and "wee, sleekit, cow'rin', tim'rous beasties" find good homes +in its deepest thickets, and the open bays and lanes that fringe the +margins of its main belts offer shelter and food to the deer when winter +storms drive them down from their high mountain pastures. A most +admirable plant! It is now in bloom, and I like to wear its pretty +fragrant racemes in my buttonhole. + +_Azalea occidentalis_, another charming shrub, grows beside cool streams +hereabouts and much higher in the Yosemite region. We found it this +evening in bloom a few miles above Greeley's Mill, where we are camped +for the night. It is closely related to the rhododendrons, is very showy +and fragrant, and everybody must like it not only for itself but for the +shady alders and willows, ferny meadows, and living water associated +with it. + +Another conifer was met to-day,--incense cedar (_Libocedrus decurrens_), +a large tree with warm yellow-green foliage in flat plumes like those of +arborvitæ, bark cinnamon-colored, and as the boles of the old trees are +without limbs they make striking pillars in the woods where the sun +chances to shine on them--a worthy companion of the kingly sugar and +yellow pines. I feel strangely attracted to this tree. The brown +close-grained wood, as well as the small scale-like leaves, is fragrant, +and the flat overlapping plumes make fine beds, and must shed the rain +well. It would be delightful to be storm-bound beneath one of these +noble, hospitable, inviting old trees, its broad sheltering arms bent +down like a tent, incense rising from the fire made from its dry fallen +branches, and a hearty wind chanting overhead. But the weather is calm +to-night, and our camp is only a sheep camp. We are near the North Fork +of the Merced. The night wind is telling the wonders of the upper +mountains, their snow fountains and gardens, forests and groves; even +their topography is in its tones. And the stars, the everlasting sky +lilies, how bright they are now that we have climbed above the lowland +dust! The horizon is bounded and adorned by a spiry wall of pines, every +tree harmoniously related to every other; definite symbols, divine +hieroglyphics written with sunbeams. Would I could understand them! The +stream flowing past the camp through ferns and lilies and alders makes +sweet music to the ear, but the pines marshaled around the edge of the +sky make a yet sweeter music to the eye. Divine beauty all. Here I +could stay tethered forever with just bread and water, nor would I be +lonely; loved friends and neighbors, as love for everything increased, +would seem all the nearer however many the miles and mountains between +us. + +_June 7._ The sheep were sick last night, and many of them are still far +from well, hardly able to leave camp, coughing, groaning, looking +wretched and pitiful, all from eating the leaves of the blessed azalea. +So at least say the shepherd and the Don. Having had but little grass +since they left the plains, they are starving, and so eat anything green +they can get. "Sheep men" call azalea "sheep-poison," and wonder what +the Creator was thinking about when he made it,--so desperately does +sheep business blind and degrade, though supposed to have a refining +influence in the good old days we read of. The California sheep owner is +in haste to get rich, and often does, now that pasturage costs nothing, +while the climate is so favorable that no winter food supply, +shelter-pens, or barns are required. Therefore large flocks may be kept +at slight expense, and large profits realized, the money invested +doubling, it is claimed, every other year. This quickly acquired wealth +usually creates desire for more. Then indeed the wool is drawn close +down over the poor fellow's eyes, dimming or shutting out almost +everything worth seeing. + +As for the shepherd, his case is still worse, especially in winter when +he lives alone in a cabin. For, though stimulated at times by hopes of +one day owning a flock and getting rich like his boss, he at the same +time is likely to be degraded by the life he leads, and seldom reaches +the dignity or advantage--or disadvantage--of ownership. The degradation +in his case has for cause one not far to seek. He is solitary most of +the year, and solitude to most people seems hard to bear. He seldom has +much good mental work or recreation in the way of books. Coming into his +dingy hovel-cabin at night, stupidly weary, he finds nothing to balance +and level his life with the universe. No, after his dull drag all day +after the sheep, he must get his supper; he is likely to slight this +task and try to satisfy his hunger with whatever comes handy. Perhaps no +bread is baked; then he just makes a few grimy flapjacks in his unwashed +frying-pan, boils a handful of tea, and perhaps fries a few strips of +rusty bacon. Usually there are dried peaches or apples in the cabin, but +he hates to be bothered with the cooking of them, just swallows the +bacon and flapjacks, and depends on the genial stupefaction of tobacco +for the rest. Then to bed, often without removing the clothing worn +during the day. Of course his health suffers, reacting on his mind; and +seeing nobody for weeks or months, he finally becomes semi-insane or +wholly so. + +The shepherd in Scotland seldom thinks of being anything but a shepherd. +He has probably descended from a race of shepherds and inherited a love +and aptitude for the business almost as marked as that of his collie. He +has but a small flock to look after, sees his family and neighbors, has +time for reading in fine weather, and often carries books to the fields +with which he may converse with kings. The oriental shepherd, we read, +called his sheep by name; they knew his voice and followed him. The +flocks must have been small and easily managed, allowing piping on the +hills and ample leisure for reading and thinking. But whatever the +blessings of sheep-culture in other times and countries, the California +shepherd, as far as I've seen or heard, is never quite sane for any +considerable time. Of all Nature's voices baa is about all he hears. +Even the howls and ki-yis of coyotes might be blessings if well heard, +but he hears them only through a blur of mutton and wool, and they do +him no good. + +The sick sheep are getting well, and the shepherd is discoursing on the +various poisons lurking in these high pastures--azalea, kalmia, alkali. +After crossing the North Fork of the Merced we turned to the left toward +Pilot Peak, and made a considerable ascent on a rocky, brush-covered +ridge to Brown's Flat, where for the first time since leaving the plains +the flock is enjoying plenty of green grass. Mr. Delaney intends to seek +a permanent camp somewhere in the neighborhood, to last several weeks. + +Before noon we passed Bower Cave, a delightful marble palace, not dark +and dripping, but filled with sunshine, which pours into it through its +wide-open mouth facing the south. It has a fine, deep, clear little lake +with mossy banks embowered with broad-leaved maples, all under ground, +wholly unlike anything I have seen in the cave line even in Kentucky, +where a large part of the State is honeycombed with caves. This curious +specimen of subterranean scenery is located on a belt of marble that is +said to extend from the north end of the Range to the extreme south. +Many other caves occur on the belt, but none like this, as far as I have +learned, combining as it does sunny outdoor brightness and vegetation +with the crystalline beauty of the underworld. It is claimed by a +Frenchman, who has fenced and locked it, placed a boat on the lakelet +and seats on the mossy bank under the maple trees, and charges a dollar +admission fee. Being on one of the ways to the Yosemite Valley, a good +many tourists visit it during the travel months of summer, regarding it +as an interesting addition to their Yosemite wonders. + +Poison oak or poison ivy (_Rhus diversiloba_), both as a bush and a +scrambler up trees and rocks, is common throughout the foothill region +up to a height of at least three thousand feet above the sea. It is +somewhat troublesome to most travelers, inflaming the skin and eyes, but +blends harmoniously with its companion plants, and many a charming +flower leans confidingly upon it for protection and shade. I have +oftentimes found the curious twining lily (_Stropholirion Californicum_) +climbing its branches, showing no fear but rather congenial +companionship. Sheep eat it without apparent ill effects; so do horses +to some extent, though not fond of it, and to many persons it is +harmless. Like most other things not apparently useful to man, it has +few friends, and the blind question, "Why was it made?" goes on and on +with never a guess that first of all it might have been made for +itself. + +Brown's Flat is a shallow fertile valley on the top of the divide +between the North Fork of the Merced and Bull Creek, commanding +magnificent views in every direction. Here the adventurous pioneer David +Brown made his headquarters for many years, dividing his time between +gold-hunting and bear-hunting. Where could lonely hunter find a better +solitude? Game in the woods, gold in the rocks, health and exhilaration +in the air, while the colors and cloud furniture of the sky are ever +inspiring through all sorts of weather. Though sternly practical, like +most pioneers, old David seems to have been uncommonly fond of scenery. +Mr. Delaney, who knew him well, tells me that he dearly loved to climb +to the summit of a commanding ridge to gaze abroad over the forest to +the snow-clad peaks and sources of the rivers, and over the foreground +valleys and gulches to note where miners were at work or claims were +abandoned, judging by smoke from cabins and camp-fires, the sounds of +axes, etc.; and when a rifle-shot was heard, to guess who was the +hunter, whether Indian or some poacher on his wide domain. His dog Sandy +accompanied him everywhere, and well the little hairy mountaineer knew +and loved his master and his master's aims. In deer-hunting he had but +little to do, trotting behind his master as he slowly made his way +through the wood, careful not to step heavily on dry twigs, scanning +open spots in the chaparral, where the game loves to feed in the early +morning and towards sunset; peering cautiously over ridges as new +outlooks were reached, and along the meadowy borders of streams. But +when bears were hunted, little Sandy became more important, and it was +as a bear-hunter that Brown became famous. His hunting method, as +described by Mr. Delaney, who had passed many a night with him in his +lonely cabin and learned his stories, was simply to go slowly and +silently through the best bear pastures, with his dog and rifle and a +few pounds of flour, until he found a fresh track and then follow it to +the death, paying no heed to the time required. Wherever the bear went +he followed, led by little Sandy, who had a keen nose and never lost the +track, however rocky the ground. When high open points were reached, the +likeliest places were carefully scanned. The time of year enabled the +hunter to determine approximately where the bear would be found,--in the +spring and early summer on open spots about the banks of streams and +springy places eating grass and clover and lupines, or in dry meadows +feasting on strawberries; toward the end of summer, on dry ridges, +feasting on manzanita berries, sitting on his haunches, pulling down the +laden branches with his paws, and pressing them together so as to get +good compact mouthfuls however much mixed with twigs and leaves; in the +Indian summer, beneath the pines, chewing the cones cut off by the +squirrels, or occasionally climbing a tree to gnaw and break off the +fruitful branches. In late autumn, when acorns are ripe, Bruin's +favorite feeding-grounds are groves of the California oak in park-like +cañon flats. Always the cunning hunter knew where to look, and seldom +came upon Bruin unawares. When the hot scent showed the dangerous game +was nigh, a long halt was made, and the intricacies of the topography +and vegetation leisurely scanned to catch a glimpse of the shaggy +wanderer, or to at least determine where he was most likely to be. + +"Whenever," said the hunter, "I saw a bear before it saw me I had no +trouble in killing it. I just studied the lay of the land and got to +leeward of it no matter how far around I had to go, and then worked up +to within a few hundred yards or so, at the foot of a tree that I could +easily climb, but too small for the bear to climb. Then I looked well to +the condition of my rifle, took off my boots so as to climb well if +necessary, and waited until the bear turned its side in clear view when +I could make a sure or at least a good shot. In case it showed fight I +climbed out of reach. But bears are slow and awkward with their eyes, +and being to leeward of them they could not scent me, and I often got in +a second shot before they noticed the smoke. Usually, however, they run +when wounded and hide in the brush. I let them run a good safe time +before I ventured to follow them, and Sandy was pretty sure to find them +dead. If not, he barked and drew their attention, and occasionally +rushed in for a distracting bite, so that I was able to get to a safe +distance for a final shot. Oh yes, bear-hunting is safe enough when +followed in a safe way, though like every other business it has its +accidents, and little doggie and I have had some close calls. Bears like +to keep out of the way of men as a general thing, but if an old, lean, +hungry mother with cubs met a man on her own ground she would, in my +opinion, try to catch and eat him. This would be only fair play anyhow, +for we eat them, but nobody hereabout has been used for bear grub that I +know of." + +Brown had left his mountain home ere we arrived, but a considerable +number of Digger Indians still linger in their cedar-bark huts on the +edge of the flat. They were attracted in the first place by the white +hunter whom they had learned to respect, and to whom they looked for +guidance and protection against their enemies the Pah Utes, who +sometimes made raids across from the east side of the Range to plunder +the stores of the comparatively feeble Diggers and steal their wives. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +IN CAMP ON THE NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED + + +_June 8._ The sheep, now grassy and good-natured, slowly nibbled their +way down into the valley of the North Fork of the Merced at the foot of +Pilot Peak Ridge to the place selected by the Don for our first central +camp, a picturesque hopper-shaped hollow formed by converging hill +slopes at a bend of the river. Here racks for dishes and provisions were +made in the shade of the river-bank trees, and beds of fern fronds, +cedar plumes, and various flowers, each to the taste of its owner, and a +corral back on the open flat for the wool. + +_June 9._ How deep our sleep last night in the mountain's heart, beneath +the trees and stars, hushed by solemn-sounding waterfalls and many small +soothing voices in sweet accord whispering peace! And our first pure +mountain day, warm, calm, cloudless,--how immeasurable it seems, how +serenely wild! I can scarcely remember its beginning. Along the river, +over the hills, in the ground, in the sky, spring work is going on with +joyful enthusiasm, new life, new beauty, unfolding, unrolling in +glorious exuberant extravagance,--new birds in their nests, new winged +creatures in the air, and new leaves, new flowers, spreading, shining, +rejoicing everywhere. + +The trees about the camp stand close, giving ample shade for ferns and +lilies, while back from the bank most of the sunshine reaches the +ground, calling up the grasses and flowers in glorious array, tall +bromus waving like bamboos, starry compositæ, monardella, Mariposa +tulips, lupines, gilias, violets, glad children of light. Soon every +fern frond will be unrolled, great beds of common pteris and woodwardia +along the river, wreaths and rosettes of pellæa and cheilanthes on sunny +rocks. Some of the woodwardia fronds are already six feet high. + +A handsome little shrub, _Chamæbatia foliolosa_, belonging to the rose +family, spreads a yellow-green mantle beneath the sugar pines for miles +without a break, not mixed or roughened with other plants. Only here and +there a Washington lily may be seen nodding above its even surface, or a +bunch or two of tall bromus as if for ornament. This fine carpet shrub +begins to appear at, say, twenty-five hundred or three thousand feet +above sea level, is about knee high or less, has brown branches, and the +largest stems are only about half an inch in diameter. The leaves, light +yellow green, thrice pinnate and finely cut, give them a rich ferny +appearance, and they are dotted with minute glands that secrete wax with +a peculiar pleasant odor that blends finely with the spicy fragrance of +the pines. The flowers are white, five eighths of an inch in diameter, +and look like those of the strawberry. Am delighted with this little +bush. It is the only true carpet shrub of this part of the Sierra. The +manzanita, rhamnus, and most of the species of ceanothus make shaggy +rugs and border fringes rather than carpets or mantles. + +The sheep do not take kindly to their new pastures, perhaps from being +too closely hemmed in by the hills. They are never fully at rest. Last +night they were frightened, probably by bears or coyotes prowling and +planning for a share of the grand mass of mutton. + +_June 10._ Very warm. We get water for the camp from a rock basin at the +foot of a picturesque cascading reach of the river where it is well +stirred and made lively without being beaten into dusty foam. The rock +here is black metamorphic slate, worn into smooth knobs in the stream +channels, contrasting with the fine gray and white cascading water as it +glides and glances and falls in lace-like sheets and braided overfolding +currents. Tufts of sedge growing on the rock knobs that rise above the +surface produce a charming effect, the long elastic leaves arching over +in every direction, the tips of the longest drooping into the current, +which dividing against the projecting rocks makes still finer lines, +uniting with the sedges to see how beautiful the happy stream can be +made. Nor is this all, for the giant saxifrage also is growing on some +of the knob rock islets, firmly anchored and displaying their broad, +round, umbrella-like leaves in showy groups by themselves, or above the +sedge tufts. The flowers of this species (_Saxifraga peltata_) are +purple, and form tall glandular racemes that are in bloom before the +appearance of the leaves. The fleshy root-stocks grip the rock in cracks +and hollows, and thus enable the plant to hold on against occasional +floods,--a marked species employed by Nature to make yet more beautiful +the most interesting portions of these cool clear streams. Near camp the +trees arch over from bank to bank, making a leafy tunnel full of soft +subdued light, through which the young river sings and shines like a +happy living creature. + +Heard a few peals of thunder from the upper Sierra, and saw firm white +bossy cumuli rising back of the pines. This was about noon. + +_June 11._ On one of the eastern branches of the river discovered some +charming cascades with a pool at the foot of each of them. White dashing +water, a few bushes and tufts of carex on ledges leaning over with fine +effect, and large orange lilies assembled in superb groups on fertile +soil-beds beside the pools. + +There are no large meadows or grassy plains near camp to supply lasting +pasture for our thousands of busy nibblers. The main dependence is +ceanothus brush on the hills and tufted grass patches here and there, +with lupines and pea-vines among the flowers on sunny open spaces. Large +areas have already been stripped bare, or nearly so, compelling the poor +hungry wool bundles to scatter far and wide, keeping the shepherds and +dogs at the top of their speed to hold them within bounds. Mr. Delaney +has gone back to the plains, taking the Indian and Chinaman with him, +leaving instruction to keep the flock here or hereabouts until his +return, which he promised would not be long delayed. + +How fine the weather is! Nothing more celestial can I conceive. How +gently the winds blow! Scarce can these tranquil air-currents be called +winds. They seem the very breath of Nature, whispering peace to every +living thing. Down in the camp dell there is no swaying of tree-tops; +most of the time not a leaf moves. I don't remember having seen a +single lily swinging on its stalk, though they are so tall the least +breeze would rock them. What grand bells these lilies have! Some of them +big enough for children's bonnets. I have been sketching them, and would +fain draw every leaf of their wide shining whorls and every curved and +spotted petal. More beautiful, better kept gardens cannot be imagined. +The species is _Lilium pardalinum_, five to six feet high, leaf-whorls a +foot wide, flowers about six inches wide, bright orange, purple spotted +in the throat, segments revolute--a majestic plant. + +_June 12._ A slight sprinkle of rain--large drops far apart, falling +with hearty pat and plash on leaves and stones and into the mouths of +the flowers. Cumuli rising to the eastward. How beautiful their pearly +bosses! How well they harmonize with the upswelling rocks beneath them. +Mountains of the sky, solid-looking, finely sculptured, their richly +varied topography wonderfully defined. Never before have I seen clouds +so substantial looking in form and texture. Nearly every day toward noon +they rise with visible swelling motion as if new worlds were being +created. And how fondly they brood and hover over the gardens and +forests with their cooling shadows and showers, keeping every petal and +leaf in glad health and heart. One may fancy the clouds themselves are +plants, springing up in the sky-fields at the call of the sun, growing +in beauty until they reach their prime, scattering rain and hail like +berries and seeds, then wilting and dying. + +The mountain live oak, common here and a thousand feet or so higher, is +like the live oak of Florida, not only in general appearance, foliage, +bark, and wide-branching habit, but in its tough, knotty, unwedgeable +wood. Standing alone with plenty of elbow room, the largest trees are +about seven to eight feet in diameter near the ground, sixty feet high, +and as wide or wider across the head. The leaves are small and +undivided, mostly without teeth or wavy edging, though on young shoots +some are sharply serrated, both kinds being found on the same tree. The +cups of the medium-sized acorns are shallow, thick walled, and covered +with a golden dust of minute hairs. Some of the trees have hardly any +main trunk, dividing near the ground into large wide-spreading limbs, +and these, dividing again and again, terminate in long, drooping, +cord-like branchlets, many of which reach nearly to the ground, while a +dense canopy of short, shining, leafy branchlets forms a round head +which looks something like a cumulus cloud when the sunshine is +pouring over it. + +[Illustration: CAMP, NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED] + +[Illustration: MOUNTAIN LIVE OAK (_Quercus chrysolepis_), EIGHT FEET IN +DIAMETER] + +A marked plant is the bush poppy (_Dendromecon rigidum_), found on the +hot hillsides near camp, the only woody member of the order I have yet +met in all my walks. Its flowers are bright orange yellow, an inch to +two inches wide, fruit-pods three or four inches long, slender and +curving,--height of bushes about four feet, made up of many slim, +straight branches, radiating from the root,--a companion of the +manzanita and other sun-loving chaparral shrubs. + +_June 13._ Another glorious Sierra day in which one seems to be +dissolved and absorbed and sent pulsing onward we know not where. Life +seems neither long nor short, and we take no more heed to save time or +make haste than do the trees and stars. This is true freedom, a good +practical sort of immortality. Yonder rises another white skyland. How +sharply the yellow pine spires and the palm-like crowns of the sugar +pines are outlined on its smooth white domes. And hark! the grand +thunder billows booming, rolling from ridge to ridge, followed by the +faithful shower. + +A good many herbaceous plants come thus far up the mountains from the +plains, and are now in flower, two months later than their lowland +relatives. Saw a few columbines to-day. Most of the ferns are in their +prime,--rock ferns on the sunny hillsides, cheilanthes, pellæa, +gymnogramme; woodwardia, aspidium, woodsia along the stream banks, and +the common _Pteris aquilina_ on sandy flats. This last, however common, +is here making shows of strong, exuberant, abounding beauty to set the +botanist wild with admiration. I measured some scarce full grown that +are more than seven feet high. Though the commonest and most widely +distributed of all the ferns, I might almost say that I never saw it +before. The broad-shouldered fronds held high on smooth stout stalks +growing close together, overleaning and overlapping, make a complete +ceiling, beneath which one may walk erect over several acres without +being seen, as if beneath a roof. And how soft and lovely the light +streaming through this living ceiling, revealing the arching branching +ribs and veins of the fronds as the framework of countless panes of pale +green and yellow plant-glass nicely fitted together--a fairyland created +out of the commonest fern-stuff. + +The smaller animals wander about as if in a tropical forest. I saw the +entire flock of sheep vanish at one side of a patch and reappear a +hundred yards farther on at the other, their progress betrayed only by +the jerking and trembling of the fronds; and strange to say very few of +the stout woody stalks were broken. I sat a long time beneath the +tallest fronds, and never enjoyed anything in the way of a bower of wild +leaves more strangely impressive. Only spread a fern frond over a man's +head and worldly cares are cast out, and freedom and beauty and peace +come in. The waving of a pine tree on the top of a mountain,--a magic +wand in Nature's hand,--every devout mountaineer knows its power; but +the marvelous beauty value of what the Scotch call a breckan in a still +dell, what poet has sung this? It would seem impossible that any one, +however incrusted with care, could escape the Godful influence of these +sacred fern forests. Yet this very day I saw a shepherd pass through one +of the finest of them without betraying more feeling than his sheep. +"What do you think of these grand ferns?" I asked. "Oh, they're only +d----d big brakes," he replied. + +Lizards of every temper, style, and color dwell here, seemingly as happy +and companionable as the birds and squirrels. Lowly, gentle fellow +mortals, enjoying God's sunshine, and doing the best they can in getting +a living, I like to watch them at their work and play. They bear +acquaintance well, and one likes them the better the longer one looks +into their beautiful, innocent eyes. They are easily tamed, and one soon +learns to love them, as they dart about on the hot rocks, swift as +dragon-flies. The eye can hardly follow them; but they never make +long-sustained runs, usually only about ten or twelve feet, then a +sudden stop, and as sudden a start again; going all their journeys by +quick, jerking impulses. These many stops I find are necessary as rests, +for they are short-winded, and when pursued steadily are soon out of +breath, pant pitifully, and are easily caught. Their bodies are more +than half tail, but these tails are well managed, never heavily dragged +nor curved up as if hard to carry; on the contrary, they seem to follow +the body lightly of their own will. Some are colored like the sky, +bright as bluebirds, others gray like the lichened rocks on which they +hunt and bask. Even the horned toad of the plains is a mild, harmless +creature, and so are the snake-like species which glide in curves with +true snake motion, while their small, undeveloped limbs drag as useless +appendages. One specimen fourteen inches long which I observed closely +made no use whatever of its tender, sprouting limbs, but glided with all +the soft, sly ease and grace of a snake. Here comes a little, gray, +dusty fellow who seems to know and trust me, running about my feet, and +looking up cunningly into my face. Carlo is watching, makes a quick +pounce on him, for the fun of the thing I suppose; but Liz has shot away +from his paws like an arrow, and is safe in the recesses of a clump of +chaparral. Gentle saurians, dragons, descendants of an ancient and +mighty race, Heaven bless you all and make your virtues known! for few +of us know as yet that scales may cover fellow creatures as gentle and +lovable as feathers, or hair, or cloth. + +Mastodons and elephants used to live here no great geological time ago, +as shown by their bones, often discovered by miners in washing +gold-gravel. And bears of at least two species are here now, besides the +California lion or panther, and wild cats, wolves, foxes, snakes, +scorpions, wasps, tarantulas; but one is almost tempted at times to +regard a small savage black ant as the master existence of this vast +mountain world. These fearless, restless, wandering imps, though only +about a quarter of an inch long, are fonder of fighting and biting than +any beast I know. They attack every living thing around their homes, +often without cause as far as I can see. Their bodies are mostly jaws +curved like ice-hooks, and to get work for these weapons seems to be +their chief aim and pleasure. Most of their colonies are established in +living oaks somewhat decayed or hollowed, in which they can conveniently +build their cells. These are chosen probably because of their strength +as opposed to the attacks of animals and storms. They work both day and +night, creep into dark caves, climb the highest trees, wander and hunt +through cool ravines as well as on hot, unshaded ridges, and extend +their highways and byways over everything but water and sky. From the +foothills to a mile above the level of the sea nothing can stir without +their knowledge; and alarms are spread in an incredibly short time, +without any howl or cry that we can hear. I can't understand the need of +their ferocious courage; there seems to be no common sense in it. +Sometimes, no doubt, they fight in defense of their homes, but they +fight anywhere and always wherever they can find anything to bite. As +soon as a vulnerable spot is discovered on man or beast, they stand on +their heads and sink their jaws, and though torn limb from limb, they +will yet hold on and die biting deeper. When I contemplate this fierce +creature so widely distributed and strongly intrenched, I see that much +remains to be done ere the world is brought under the rule of universal +peace and love. + +On my way to camp a few minutes ago, I passed a dead pine nearly ten +feet in diameter. It has been enveloped in fire from top to bottom so +that now it looks like a grand black pillar set up as a monument. In +this noble shaft a colony of large jet-black ants have established +themselves, laboriously cutting tunnels and cells through the wood, +whether sound or decayed. The entire trunk seems to have been +honeycombed, judging by the size of the talus of gnawed chips like +sawdust piled up around its base. They are more intelligent looking than +their small, belligerent, strong-scented brethren, and have better +manners, though quick to fight when required. Their towns are carved in +fallen trunks as well as in those left standing, but never in sound, +living trees or in the ground. When you happen to sit down to rest or +take notes near a colony, some wandering hunter is sure to find you and +come cautiously forward to discover the nature of the intruder and what +ought to be done. If you are not too near the town and keep perfectly +still he may run across your feet a few times, over your legs and hands +and face, up your trousers, as if taking your measure and getting +comprehensive views, then go in peace without raising an alarm. If, +however, a tempting spot is offered or some suspicious movement excites +him, a bite follows, and such a bite! I fancy that a bear or wolf bite +is not to be compared with it. A quick electric flame of pain flashes +along the outraged nerves, and you discover for the first time how great +is the capacity for sensation you are possessed of. A shriek, a grab for +the animal, and a bewildered stare follow this bite of bites as one +comes back to consciousness from sudden eclipse. Fortunately, if +careful, one need not be bitten oftener than once or twice in a +lifetime. This wonderful electric species is about three fourths of an +inch long. Bears are fond of them, and tear and gnaw their home-logs to +pieces, and roughly devour the eggs, larvæ, parent ants, and the rotten +or sound wood of the cells, all in one spicy acid hash. The Digger +Indians also are fond of the larvæ and even of the perfect ants, so I +have been told by old mountaineers. They bite off and reject the head, +and eat the tickly acid body with keen relish. Thus are the poor biters +bitten, like every other biter, big or little, in the world's great +family. + +There is also a fine, active, intelligent-looking red species, +intermediate in size between the above. They dwell in the ground, and +build large piles of seed husks, leaves, straw, etc., over their nests. +Their food seems to be mostly insects and plant leaves, seeds and sap. +How many mouths Nature has to fill, how many neighbors we have, how +little we know about them, and how seldom we get in each other's way! +Then to think of the infinite numbers of smaller fellow mortals, +invisibly small, compared with which the smallest ants are as mastodons. + +_June 14._ The pool-basins below the falls and cascades hereabouts, +formed by the heavy down-plunging currents, are kept nicely clean and +clear of detritus. The heavier parts of the material swept over the +falls are heaped up a short distance in front of the basins in the form +of a dam, thus tending, together with erosion, to increase their size. +Sudden changes, however, are effected during the spring floods, when the +snow is melting and the upper tributaries are roaring loud from "bank to +brae." Then boulders that have fallen into the channels, and which the +ordinary summer and winter currents were unable to move, are suddenly +swept forward as by a mighty besom, hurled over the falls into these +pools, and piled up in a new dam together with part of the old one, +while some of the smaller boulders are carried further down stream and +variously lodged according to size and shape, all seeking rest where the +force of the current is less than the resistance they are able to offer. +But the greatest changes made in these relations of fall, pool, and dam +are caused, not by the ordinary spring floods, but by extraordinary ones +that occur at irregular intervals. The testimony of trees growing on +flood boulder deposits shows that a century or more has passed since the +last master flood came to awaken everything movable to go swirling and +dancing on wonderful journeys. These floods may occur during the summer, +when heavy thunder-showers, called "cloud-bursts," fall on wide, steeply +inclined stream basins furrowed by converging channels, which suddenly +gather the waters together into the main trunk in booming torrents of +enormous transporting power, though short lived. + +One of these ancient flood boulders stands firm in the middle of the +stream channel, just below the lower edge of the pool dam at the foot of +the fall nearest our camp. It is a nearly cubical mass of granite about +eight feet high, plushed with mosses over the top and down the sides to +ordinary high-water mark. When I climbed on top of it to-day and lay +down to rest, it seemed the most romantic spot I had yet found--the one +big stone with its mossy level top and smooth sides standing square and +firm and solitary, like an altar, the fall in front of it bathing it +lightly with the finest of the spray, just enough to keep its moss cover +fresh; the clear green pool beneath, with its foam-bells and its half +circle of lilies leaning forward like a band of admirers, and flowering +dogwood and alder trees leaning over all in sun-sifted arches. How +soothingly, restfully cool it is beneath that leafy, translucent +ceiling, and how delightful the water music--the deep bass tones of the +fall, the clashing, ringing spray, and infinite variety of small low +tones of the current gliding past the side of the boulder-island, and +glinting against a thousand smaller stones down the ferny channel! All +this shut in; every one of these influences acting at short range as if +in a quiet room. The place seemed holy, where one might hope to see God. + +After dark, when the camp was at rest, I groped my way back to the altar +boulder and passed the night on it,--above the water, beneath the leaves +and stars,--everything still more impressive than by day, the fall seen +dimly white, singing Nature's old love song with solemn enthusiasm, +while the stars peering through the leaf-roof seemed to join in the +white water's song. Precious night, precious day to abide in me forever. +Thanks be to God for this immortal gift. + +_June 15._ Another reviving morning. Down the long mountain-slopes the +sunbeams pour, gilding the awakening pines, cheering every needle, +filling every living thing with joy. Robins are singing in the alder and +maple groves, the same old song that has cheered and sweetened countless +seasons over almost all of our blessed continent. In this mountain +hollow they seem as much at home as in farmers' orchards. Bullock's +oriole and the Louisiana tanager are here also, with many warblers and +other little mountain troubadours, most of them now busy about their +nests. + +Discovered another magnificent specimen of the goldcup oak six feet in +diameter, a Douglas spruce seven feet, and a twining lily +(_Stropholirion_), with stem eight feet long, and sixty rose-colored +flowers. + +[Illustration: SUGAR PINE] + +Sugar pine cones are cylindrical, slightly tapered at the end and +rounded at the base. Found one to-day nearly twenty-four inches long and +six in diameter, the scales being open. Another specimen nineteen inches +long; the average length of full-grown cones on trees favorably situated +is nearly eighteen inches. On the lower edge of the belt at a height of +about twenty-five hundred feet above the sea they are smaller, say a +foot to fifteen inches long, and at a height of seven thousand feet or +more near the upper limits of its growth in the Yosemite region they are +about the same size. This noble tree is an inexhaustible study and +source of pleasure. I never weary of gazing at its grand tassel cones, +its perfectly round bole one hundred feet or more without a limb, the +fine purplish color of its bark, and its magnificent outsweeping, +down-curving feathery arms forming a crown always bold and striking and +exhilarating. In habit and general port it looks somewhat like a palm, +but no palm that I have yet seen displays such majesty of form and +behavior either when poised silent and thoughtful in sunshine, or +wide-awake waving in storm winds with every needle quivering. When young +it is very straight and regular in form like most other conifers; but at +the age of fifty to one hundred years it begins to acquire +individuality, so that no two are alike in their prime or old age. Every +tree calls for special admiration. I have been making many sketches, and +regret that I cannot draw every needle. It is said to reach a height of +three hundred feet, though the tallest I have measured falls short of +this stature sixty feet or more. The diameter of the largest near the +ground is about ten feet, though I've heard of some twelve feet thick or +even fifteen. The diameter is held to a great height, the taper being +almost imperceptibly gradual. Its companion, the yellow pine, is almost +as large. The long silvery foliage of the younger specimens forms +magnificent cylindrical brushes on the top shoots and the ends of the +upturned branches, and when the wind sways the needles all one way at a +certain angle every tree becomes a tower of white quivering sun-fire. +Well may this shining species be called the silver pine. The needles are +sometimes more than a foot long, almost as long as those of the +long-leaf pine of Florida. But though in size the yellow pine almost +equals the sugar pine, and in rugged enduring strength seems to surpass +it, it is far less marked in general habit and expression, with its +regular conventional spire and its comparatively small cones clustered +stiffly among the needles. Were there no sugar pine, then would this be +the king of the world's eighty or ninety species, the brightest of the +bright, waving, worshiping multitude. Were they mere mechanical +sculptures, what noble objects they would still be! How much more +throbbing, thrilling, overflowing, full of life in every fiber and cell, +grand glowing silver-rods--the very gods of the plant kingdom, living +their sublime century lives in sight of Heaven, watched and loved and +admired from generation to generation! And how many other radiant resiny +sun trees are here and higher up,--libocedrus, Douglas spruce, silver +fir, sequoia. How rich our inheritance in these blessed mountains, the +tree pastures into which our eyes are turned! + +Now comes sundown. The west is all a glory of color transfiguring +everything. Far up the Pilot Peak Ridge the radiant host of trees stand +hushed and thoughtful, receiving the Sun's good-night, as solemn and +impressive a leave-taking as if sun and trees were to meet no more. The +daylight fades, the color spell is broken, and the forest breathes free +in the night breeze beneath the stars. + +_June 16._ One of the Indians from Brown's Flat got right into the +middle of the camp this morning, unobserved. I was seated on a stone, +looking over my notes and sketches, and happening to look up, was +startled to see him standing grim and silent within a few steps of me, +as motionless and weather-stained as an old tree-stump that had stood +there for centuries. All Indians seem to have learned this wonderful way +of walking unseen,--making themselves invisible like certain spiders I +have been observing here, which, in case of alarm, caused, for example, +by a bird alighting on the bush their webs are spread upon, immediately +bounce themselves up and down on their elastic threads so rapidly that +only a blur is visible. The wild Indian power of escaping observation, +even where there is little or no cover to hide in, was probably slowly +acquired in hard hunting and fighting lessons while trying to approach +game, take enemies by surprise, or get safely away when compelled to +retreat. And this experience transmitted through many generations seems +at length to have become what is vaguely called instinct. + +How smooth and changeless seems the surface of the mountains about us! +Scarce a track is to be found beyond the range of the sheep except on +small open spots on the sides of the streams, or where the forest +carpets are thin or wanting. On the smoothest of these open strips and +patches deer tracks may be seen, and the great suggestive footprints of +bears, which, with those of the many small animals, are scarce enough to +answer as a kind of light ornamental stitching or embroidery. Along the +main ridges and larger branches of the river Indian trails may be +traced, but they are not nearly as distinct as one would expect to find +them. How many centuries Indians have roamed these woods nobody knows, +probably a great many, extending far beyond the time that Columbus +touched our shores, and it seems strange that heavier marks have not +been made. Indians walk softly and hurt the landscape hardly more than +the birds and squirrels, and their brush and bark huts last hardly +longer than those of wood rats, while their more enduring monuments, +excepting those wrought on the forests by the fires they made to improve +their hunting grounds, vanish in a few centuries. + +How different are most of those of the white man, especially on the +lower gold region--roads blasted in the solid rock, wild streams dammed +and tamed and turned out of their channels and led along the sides of +cañons and valleys to work in mines like slaves. Crossing from ridge to +ridge, high in the air, on long straddling trestles as if flowing on +stilts, or down and up across valleys and hills, imprisoned in iron +pipes to strike and wash away hills and miles of the skin of the +mountain's face, riddling, stripping every gold gully and flat. These +are the white man's marks made in a few feverish years, to say nothing +of mills, fields, villages, scattered hundreds of miles along the flank +of the Range. Long will it be ere these marks are effaced, though Nature +is doing what she can, replanting, gardening, sweeping away old dams and +flumes, leveling gravel and boulder piles, patiently trying to heal +every raw scar. The main gold storm is over. Calm enough are the gray +old miners scratching a bare living in waste diggings here and there. +Thundering underground blasting is still going on to feed the pounding +quartz mills, but their influence on the landscape is light as compared +with that of the pick-and-shovel storms waged a few years ago. +Fortunately for Sierra scenery the gold-bearing slates are mostly +restricted to the foothills. The region about our camp is still wild, +and higher lies the snow about as trackless as the sky. + +Only a few hills and domes of cloudland were built yesterday and none at +all to-day. The light is peculiarly white and thin, though pleasantly +warm. The serenity of this mountain weather in the spring, just when +Nature's pulses are beating highest, is one of its greatest charms. +There is only a moderate breeze from the summits of the Range at night, +and a slight breathing from the sea and the lowland hills and plains +during the day, or stillness so complete no leaf stirs. The trees +hereabouts have but little wind history to tell. + +Sheep, like people, are ungovernable when hungry. Excepting my guarded +lily gardens, almost every leaf that these hoofed locusts can reach +within a radius of a mile or two from camp has been devoured. Even the +bushes are stripped bare, and in spite of dogs and shepherds the sheep +scatter to all points of the compass and vanish in dust. I fear some are +lost, for one of the sixteen black ones is missing. + +_June 17._ Counted the wool bundles this morning as they bounced through +the narrow corral gate. About three hundred are missing, and as the +shepherd could not go to seek them, I had to go. I tied a crust of bread +to my belt, and with Carlo set out for the upper slopes of the Pilot +Peak Ridge, and had a good day, notwithstanding the care of seeking the +silly runaways. I went out for wool, and did not come back shorn. A +peculiar light circled around the horizon, white and thin like that +often seen over the auroral corona, blending into the blue of the upper +sky. The only clouds were a few faint flossy pencilings like combed +silk. I pushed direct to the boundary of the usual range of the flock, +and around it until I found the outgoing trail of the wanderers. It led +far up the ridge into an open place surrounded by a hedge-like growth of +ceanothus chaparral. Carlo knew what I was about, and eagerly followed +the scent until we came up to them, huddled in a timid, silent bunch. +They had evidently been here all night and all the forenoon, afraid to +go out to feed. Having escaped restraint, they were, like some people we +know of, afraid of their freedom, did not know what to do with it, and +seemed glad to get back into the old familiar bondage. + +_June 18._ Another inspiring morning, nothing better in any world can +be conceived. No description of Heaven that I have ever heard or read of +seems half so fine. At noon the clouds occupied about .05 of the sky, +white filmy touches drawn delicately on the azure. + +The high ridges and hilltops beyond the woolly locusts are now gay with +monardella, clarkia, coreopsis, and tall tufted grasses, some of them +tall enough to wave like pines. The lupines, of which there are many +ill-defined species, are now mostly out of flower, and many of the +compositæ are beginning to fade, their radiant corollas vanishing in +fluffy pappus like stars in mist. + +We had another visitor from Brown's Flat to-day, an old Indian woman +with a basket on her back. Like our first caller from the village, she +got fairly into camp and was standing in plain view when discovered. How +long she had been quietly looking on, I cannot say. Even the dogs failed +to notice her stealthy approach. She was on her way, I suppose, to some +wild garden, probably for lupine and starchy saxifrage leaves and +rootstocks. Her dress was calico rags, far from clean. In every way she +seemed sadly unlike Nature's neat well-dressed animals, though living +like them on the bounty of the wilderness. Strange that mankind alone is +dirty. Had she been clad in fur, or cloth woven of grass or shreddy +bark, like the juniper and libocedrus mats, she might then have seemed a +rightful part of the wilderness; like a good wolf at least, or bear. But +from no point of view that I have found are such debased fellow beings a +whit more natural than the glaring tailored tourists we saw that +frightened the birds and squirrels. + +_June 19._ Pure sunshine all day. How beautiful a rock is made by leaf +shadows! Those of the live oak are particularly clear and distinct, and +beyond all art in grace and delicacy, now still as if painted on stone, +now gliding softly as if afraid of noise, now dancing, waltzing in +swift, merry swirls, or jumping on and off sunny rocks in quick dashes +like wave embroidery on seashore cliffs. How true and substantial is +this shadow beauty, and with what sublime extravagance is beauty thus +multiplied! The big orange lilies are now arrayed in all their glory of +leaf and flower. Noble plants, in perfect health, Nature's darlings. + +_June 20._ Some of the silly sheep got caught fast in a tangle of +chaparral this morning, like flies in a spider's web, and had to be +helped out. Carlo found them and tried to drive them from the trap by +the easiest way. How far above sheep are intelligent dogs! No friend +and helper can be more affectionate and constant than Carlo. The noble +St. Bernard is an honor to his race. + +The air is distinctly fragrant with balsam and resin and mint,--every +breath of it a gift we may well thank God for. Who could ever guess that +so rough a wilderness should yet be so fine, so full of good things. One +seems to be in a majestic domed pavilion in which a grand play is being +acted with scenery and music and incense,--all the furniture and action +so interesting we are in no danger of being called on to endure one dull +moment. God himself seems to be always doing his best here, working like +a man in a glow of enthusiasm. + +_June 21._ Sauntered along the river-bank to my lily gardens. The +perfection of beauty in these lilies of the wilderness is a never-ending +source of admiration and wonder. Their rhizomes are set in black mould +accumulated in hollows of the metamorphic slates beside the pools, where +they are well watered without being subjected to flood action. Every +leaf in the level whorls around the tall polished stalks is as finely +finished as the petals, and the light and heat required are measured for +them and tempered in passing through the branches of over-leaning trees. +However strong the winds from the noon rainstorms, they are securely +sheltered. Beautiful hypnum carpets bordered with ferns are spread +beneath them, violets too, and a few daisies. Everything around them +sweet and fresh like themselves. + +Cloudland to-day is only a solitary white mountain; but it is so +enriched with sunshine and shade, the tones of color on its big domed +head and bossy outbulging ridges, and in the hollows and ravines between +them, are ineffably fine. + +_June 22._ Unusually cloudy. Besides the periodical shower-bearing +cumuli there is a thin, diffused, fog-like cloud overhead. About .75 in +all. + +_June 23._ Oh, these vast, calm, measureless mountain days, inciting at +once to work and rest! Days in whose light everything seems equally +divine, opening a thousand windows to show us God. Nevermore, however +weary, should one faint by the way who gains the blessings of one +mountain day; whatever his fate, long life, short life, stormy or calm, +he is rich forever. + +_June 24._ Our regular allowance of clouds and thunder. Shepherd Billy +is in a peck of trouble about the sheep; he declares that they are +possessed with more of the evil one than any other flock from the +beginning of the invention of mutton and wool to the last batch of it. +No matter how many are missing, he will not, he says, go a step to seek +them, because, as he reasons, while getting back one wanderer he would +probably lose ten. Therefore runaway hunting must be Carlo's and mine. +Billy's little dog Jack is also giving trouble by leaving camp every +night to visit his neighbors up the mountain at Brown's Flat. He is a +common-looking cur of no particular breed, but tremendously enterprising +in love and war. He has cut all the ropes and leather straps he has been +tied with, until his master in desperation, after climbing the brushy +mountain again and again to drag him back, fastened him with a pole +attached to his collar under his chin at one end, and to a stout sapling +at the other. But the pole gave good leverage, and by constant twisting +during the night, the fastening at the sapling end was chafed off, and +he set out on his usual journey, dragging the pole through the brush, +and reached the Indian settlement in safety. His master followed, and +making no allowance, gave him a beating, and swore in bad terms that +next evening he would "fix that infatuated pup" by anchoring him +unmercifully to the heavy cast-iron lid of our Dutch oven, weighing +about as much as the dog. It was linked directly to his collar close up +under the chin, so that the poor fellow seemed unable to stir. He stood +quite discouraged until after dark, unable to look about him, or even to +lie down unless he stretched himself out with his front feet across the +lid, and his head close down between his paws. Before morning, however, +Jack was heard far up the height howling Excelsior, cast-iron anchor to +the contrary notwithstanding. He must have walked, or rather climbed, +erect on his hind legs, clasping the heavy lid like a shield against his +breast, a formidable iron-clad condition in which to meet his rivals. +Next night, dog, pot-lid, and all, were tied up in an old bean-sack, and +thus at last angry Billy gained the victory. Just before leaving home, +Jack was bitten in the lower jaw by a rattlesnake, and for a week or so +his head and neck were swollen to more than double the normal size; +nevertheless he ran about as brisk and lively as ever, and is now +completely recovered. The only treatment he got was fresh milk--a gallon +or two at a time forcibly poured down his sore, poisoned throat. + +_June 25._ Though only a sheep camp, this grand mountain hollow is home, +sweet home, every day growing sweeter, and I shall be sorry to leave it. +The lily gardens are safe as yet from the trampling flock. Poor, dusty, +raggedy, famishing creatures, I heartily pity them. Many a mile they +must go every day to gather their fifteen or twenty tons of chaparral +and grass. + +_June 26._ Nuttall's flowering dogwood makes a fine show when in bloom. +The whole tree is then snowy white. The involucres are six to eight +inches wide. Along the streams it is a good-sized tree thirty to fifty +feet high, with a broad head when not crowded by companions. Its showy +involucres attract a crowd of moths, butterflies, and other winged +people about it for their own and, I suppose, the tree's advantage. It +likes plenty of cool water, and is a great drinker like the alder, +willow, and cottonwood, and flourishes best on stream banks, though it +often wanders far from streams in damp shady glens beneath the pines, +where it is much smaller. When the leaves ripen in the fall, they become +more beautiful than the flowers, displaying charming tones of red, +purple, and lavender. Another species grows in abundance as a chaparral +shrub on the shady sides of the hills, probably _Cornus sessilis_. The +leaves are eaten by the sheep.--Heard a few lightning strokes in the +distance, with rumbling, mumbling reverberations. + +_June 27._ The beaked hazel (_Corylus rostrata_, var. _Californica_) is +common on cool slopes up toward the summit of the Pilot Peak Ridge. +There is something peculiarly attractive in the hazel, like the oaks and +heaths of the cool countries of our forefathers, and through them our +love for these plants has, I suppose, been transmitted. This species is +four or five feet high, leaves soft and hairy, grateful to the touch, +and the delicious nuts are eagerly gathered by Indians and squirrels. +The sky as usual adorned with white noon clouds. + +_June 28._ Warm, mellow summer. The glowing sunbeams make every nerve +tingle. The new needles of the pines and firs are nearly full grown and +shine gloriously. Lizards are glinting about on the hot rocks; some that +live near the camp are more than half tame. They seem attentive to every +movement on our part, as if curious to simply look on without suspicion +of harm, turning their heads to look back, and making a variety of +pretty gestures. Gentle, guileless creatures with beautiful eyes, I +shall be sorry to leave them when we leave camp. + +_June 29._ I have been making the acquaintance of a very interesting +little bird that flits about the falls and rapids of the main branches +of the river. It is not a water-bird in structure, though it gets its +living in the water, and never leaves the streams. It is not web-footed, +yet it dives fearlessly into deep swirling rapids, evidently to feed at +the bottom, using its wings to swim with under water just as ducks and +loons do. Sometimes it wades about in shallow places, thrusting its head +under from time to time in a jerking, nodding, frisky way that is sure +to attract attention. It is about the size of a robin, has short crisp +wings serviceable for flying either in water or air, and a tail of +moderate size slanted upward, giving it, with its nodding, bobbing +manners, a wrennish look. Its color is plain bluish ash, with a tinge of +brown on the head and shoulders. It flies from fall to fall, rapid to +rapid, with a solid whir of wing-beats like those of a quail, follows +the windings of the stream, and usually alights on some rock jutting up +out of the current, or on some stranded snag, or rarely on the dry limb +of an overhanging tree, perching like regular tree birds when it suits +its convenience. It has the oddest, daintiest mincing manners +imaginable; and the little fellow can sing too, a sweet, thrushy, fluty +song, rather low, not the least boisterous, and much less keen and +accentuated than from its vigorous briskness one would be led to look +for. What a romantic life this little bird leads on the most beautiful +portions of the streams, in a genial climate with shade and cool water +and spray to temper the summer heat. No wonder it is a fine singer, +considering the stream songs it hears day and night. Every breath the +little poet draws is part of a song, for all the air about the rapids +and falls is beaten into music, and its first lessons must begin before +it is born by the thrilling and quivering of the eggs in unison with the +tones of the falls. I have not yet found its nest, but it must be near +the streams, for it never leaves them. + +_June 30._ Half cloudy, half sunny, clouds lustrous white. The tall +pines crowded along the top of the Pilot Peak Ridge look like six-inch +miniatures exquisitely outlined on the satiny sky. Average cloudiness +for the day about .25. No rain. And so this memorable month ends, a +stream of beauty unmeasured, no more to be sectioned off by almanac +arithmetic than sun-radiance or the currents of seas and rivers--a +peaceful, joyful stream of beauty. Every morning, arising from the death +of sleep, the happy plants and all our fellow animal creatures great and +small, and even the rocks, seemed to be shouting, "Awake, awake, +rejoice, rejoice, come love us and join in our song. Come! Come!" +Looking back through the stillness and romantic enchanting beauty and +peace of the camp grove, this June seems the greatest of all the months +of my life, the most truly, divinely free, boundless like eternity, +immortal. Everything in it seems equally divine--one smooth, pure, wild +glow of Heaven's love, never to be blotted or blurred by anything past +or to come. + +_July 1._ Summer is ripe. Flocks of seeds are already out of their cups +and pods seeking their predestined places. Some will strike root and +grow up beside their parents, others flying on the wings of the wind far +from them, among strangers. Most of the young birds are full feathered +and out of their nests, though still looked after by both father and +mother, protected and fed and to some extent educated. How beautiful the +home life of birds! No wonder we all love them. + +[Illustration: DOUGLAS SQUIRREL OBSERVING BROTHER MAN] + +I like to watch the squirrels. There are two species here, the large +California gray and the Douglas. The latter is the brightest of all the +squirrels I have ever seen, a hot spark of life, making every tree +tingle with his prickly toes, a condensed nugget of fresh mountain vigor +and valor, as free from disease as a sunbeam. One cannot think of such +an animal ever being weary or sick. He seems to think the mountains +belong to him, and at first tried to drive away the whole flock of +sheep as well as the shepherd and dogs. How he scolds, and what faces he +makes, all eyes, teeth, and whiskers! If not so comically small, he +would indeed be a dreadful fellow. I should like to know more about his +bringing up, his life in the home knot-hole, as well as in the +tree-tops, throughout all seasons. Strange that I have not yet found a +nest full of young ones. The Douglas is nearly allied to the red +squirrel of the Atlantic slope, and may have been distributed to this +side of the continent by way of the great unbroken forests of the north. + +The California gray is one of the most beautiful, and, next to the +Douglas, the most interesting of our hairy neighbors. Compared with the +Douglas he is twice as large, but far less lively and influential as a +worker in the woods and he manages to make his way through leaves and +branches with less stir than his small brother. I have never heard him +bark at anything except our dogs. When in search of food he glides +silently from branch to branch, examining last year's cones, to see +whether some few seeds may not be left between the scales, or gleans +fallen ones among the leaves on the ground, since none of the present +season's crop is yet available. His tail floats now behind him, now +above him, level or gracefully curled like a wisp of cirrus cloud, +every hair in its place, clean and shining and radiant as thistle-down +in spite of rough, gummy work. His whole body seems about as +unsubstantial as his tail. The little Douglas is fiery, peppery, full of +brag and fight and show, with movements so quick and keen they almost +sting the onlooker, and the harlequin gyrating show he makes of himself +turns one giddy to see. The gray is shy, and oftentimes stealthy in his +movements, as if half expecting an enemy in every tree and bush, and +back of every log, wishing only to be let alone apparently, and +manifesting no desire to be seen or admired or feared. The Indians hunt +this species for food, a good cause for caution, not to mention other +enemies--hawks, snakes, wild cats. In woods where food is abundant they +wear paths through sheltering thickets and over prostrate trees to some +favorite pool where in hot and dry weather they drink at nearly the same +hour every day. These pools are said to be narrowly watched, especially +by the boys, who lie in ambush with bow and arrow, and kill without +noise. But, in spite of enemies, squirrels are happy fellows, forest +favorites, types of tireless life. Of all Nature's wild beasts, they +seem to me the wildest. May we come to know each other better. + +The chaparral-covered hill-slope to the south of the camp, besides +furnishing nesting-places for countless merry birds, is the home and +hiding-place of the curious wood rat (_Neotoma_), a handsome, +interesting animal, always attracting attention wherever seen. It is +more like a squirrel than a rat, is much larger, has delicate, thick, +soft fur of a bluish slate color, white on the belly; ears large, thin, +and translucent; eyes soft, full, and liquid; claws slender, sharp as +needles; and as his limbs are strong, he can climb about as well as a +squirrel. No rat or squirrel has so innocent a look, is so easily +approached, or expresses such confidence in one's good intentions. He +seems too fine for the thorny thickets he inhabits, and his hut also is +as unlike himself as may be, though softly furnished inside. No other +animal inhabitant of these mountains builds houses so large and striking +in appearance. The traveler coming suddenly upon a group of them for the +first time will not be likely to forget them. They are built of all +kinds of sticks, old rotten pieces picked up anywhere, and green prickly +twigs bitten from the nearest bushes, the whole mixed with miscellaneous +odds and ends of everything movable, such as bits of cloddy earth, +stones, bones, deerhorn, etc., piled up in a conical mass as if it were +got ready for burning. Some of these curious cabins are six feet high +and as wide at the base, and a dozen or more of them are occasionally +grouped together, less perhaps for the sake of society than for +advantages of food and shelter. Coming through the dense shaggy thickets +of some lonely hillside, the solitary explorer happening into one of +these strange villages is startled at the sight, and may fancy himself +in an Indian settlement, and begin to wonder what kind of reception he +is likely to get. But no savage face will he see, perhaps not a single +inhabitant, or at most two or three seated on top of their wigwams, +looking at the stranger with the mildest of wild eyes, and allowing a +near approach. In the centre of the rough spiky hut a soft nest is made +of the inner fibres of bark chewed to tow, and lined with feathers and +the down of various seeds, such as willow and milkweed. The delicate +creature in its prickly, thick-walled home suggests a tender flower in a +thorny involucre. Some of the nests are built in trees thirty or forty +feet from the ground, and even in garrets, as if seeking the company and +protection of man, like swallows and linnets, though accustomed to the +wildest solitude. Among housekeepers Neotoma has the reputation of a +thief, because he carries away everything transportable to his queer +hut,--knives, forks, combs, nails, tin cups, spectacles, etc.,--merely, +however, to strengthen his fortifications, I guess. His food at home, as +far as I have learned, is nearly the same as that of the +squirrels,--nuts, berries, seeds, and sometimes the bark and tender +shoots of the various species of ceanothus. + +_July 2._ Warm, sunny day, thrilling plant and animals and rocks alike, +making sap and blood flow fast, and making every particle of the crystal +mountains throb and swirl and dance in glad accord like star-dust. No +dullness anywhere visible or thinkable. No stagnation, no death. +Everything kept in joyful rhythmic motion in the pulses of Nature's big +heart. + +Pearl cumuli over the higher mountains--clouds, not with a silver +lining, but all silver. The brightest, crispest, rockiest-looking +clouds, most varied in features and keenest in outline I ever saw at any +time of year in any country. The daily building and unbuilding of these +snowy cloud-ranges--the highest Sierra--is a prime marvel to me, and I +gaze at the stupendous white domes, miles high, with ever fresh +admiration. But in the midst of these sky and mountain affairs a change +of diet is pulling us down. We have been out of bread a few days, and +begin to miss it more than seems reasonable for we have plenty of meat +and sugar and tea. Strange we should feel food-poor in so rich a +wilderness. The Indians put us to shame, so do the squirrels,--starchy +roots and seeds and bark in abundance, yet the failure of the meal sack +disturbs our bodily balance, and threatens our best enjoyments. + +_July 3._ Warm. Breeze just enough to sift through the woods and waft +fragrance from their thousand fountains. The pine and fir cones are +growing well, resin and balsam dripping from every tree, and seeds are +ripening fast, promising a fine harvest. The squirrels will have bread. +They eat all kinds of nuts long before they are ripe, and yet never seem +to suffer in stomach. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +A BREAD FAMINE + + +_July 4._ The air beyond the flock range, full of the essences of the +woods, is growing sweeter and more fragrant from day to day, like +ripening fruit. + +Mr. Delaney is expected to arrive soon from the lowlands with a new +stock of provisions, and as the flock is to be moved to fresh pastures +we shall all be well fed. In the mean time our stock of beans as well as +flour has failed--everything but mutton, sugar, and tea. The shepherd is +somewhat demoralized, and seems to care but little what becomes of his +flock. He says that since the boss has failed to feed him he is not +rightly bound to feed the sheep, and swears that no decent white man can +climb these steep mountains on mutton alone. "It's not fittin' grub for +a white man really white. For dogs and coyotes and Indians it's +different. Good grub, good sheep. That's what I say." Such was Billy's +Fourth of July oration. + +_July 5._ The clouds of noon on the high Sierra seem yet more +marvelously, indescribably beautiful from day to day as one becomes +more wakeful to see them. The smoke of the gunpowder burned yesterday on +the lowlands, and the eloquence of the orators has probably settled or +been blown away by this time. Here every day is a holiday, a jubilee +ever sounding with serene enthusiasm, without wear or waste or cloying +weariness. Everything rejoicing. Not a single cell or crystal unvisited +or forgotten. + +_July 6._ Mr. Delaney has not arrived, and the bread famine is sore. We +must eat mutton a while longer, though it seems hard to get accustomed +to it. I have heard of Texas pioneers living without bread or anything +made from the cereals for months without suffering, using the +breast-meat of wild turkeys for bread. Of this kind they had plenty in +the good old days when life, though considered less safe, was fussed +over the less. The trappers and fur traders of early days in the Rocky +Mountain regions lived on bison and beaver meat for months. +Salmon-eaters, too, there are among both Indians and whites who seem to +suffer little or not at all from the want of bread. Just at this moment +mutton seems the least desirable of food, though of good quality. We +pick out the leanest bits, and down they go against heavy disgust, +causing nausea and an effort to reject the offensive stuff. Tea makes +matters worse, if possible. The stomach begins to assert itself as an +independent creature with a will of its own. We should boil lupine +leaves, clover, starchy petioles, and saxifrage rootstocks like the +Indians. We try to ignore our gastric troubles, rise and gaze about us, +turn our eyes to the mountains, and climb doggedly up through brush and +rocks into the heart of the scenery. A stifled calm comes on, and the +day's duties and even enjoyments are languidly got through with. We chew +a few leaves of ceanothus by way of luncheon, and smell or chew the +spicy monardella for the dull headache and stomach-ache that now +lightens, now comes muffling down upon us and into us like fog. At night +more mutton, flesh to flesh, down with it, not too much, and there are +the stars shining through the cedar plumes and branches above our beds. + +_July 7._ Rather weak and sickish this morning, and all about a piece of +bread. Can scarce command attention to my best studies, as if one +couldn't take a few days' saunter in the Godful woods without +maintaining a base on a wheat-field and gristmill. Like caged parrots we +want a cracker, any of the hundred kinds--the remainder biscuit of a +voyage around the world would answer well enough, nor would the +wholesomeness of saleratus biscuit be questioned. Bread without flesh +is a good diet, as on many botanical excursions I have proved. Tea also +may easily be ignored. Just bread and water and delightful toil is all I +need,--not unreasonably much, yet one ought to be trained and tempered +to enjoy life in these brave wilds in full independence of any +particular kind of nourishment. That this may be accomplished is +manifest, as far as bodily welfare is concerned, in the lives of people +of other climes. The Eskimo, for example, gets a living far north of the +wheat line, from oily seals and whales. Meat, berries, bitter weeds, and +blubber, or only the last, for months at a time; and yet these people +all around the frozen shores of our continent are said to be hearty, +jolly, stout, and brave. We hear, too, of fish-eaters, carnivorous as +spiders, yet well enough as far as stomachs are concerned, while we are +so ridiculously helpless, making wry faces over our fare, looking +sheepish in digestive distress amid rumbling, grumbling sounds that +might well pass for smothered baas. We have a large supply of sugar, and +this evening it occurred to me that these belligerent stomachs might +possibly, like complaining children, be coaxed with candy. Accordingly +the frying-pan was cleansed, and a lot of sugar cooked in it to a sort +of wax, but this stuff only made matters worse. + +Man seems to be the only animal whose food soils him, making necessary +much washing and shield-like bibs and napkins. Moles living in the earth +and eating slimy worms are yet as clean as seals or fishes, whose lives +are one perpetual wash. And, as we have seen, the squirrels in these +resiny woods keep themselves clean in some mysterious way; not a hair is +sticky, though they handle the gummy cones, and glide about apparently +without care. The birds, too, are clean, though they seem to make a good +deal of fuss washing and cleaning their feathers. Certain flies and ants +I see are in a fix, entangled and sealed up in the sugar-wax we threw +away, like some of their ancestors in amber. Our stomachs, like tired +muscles, are sore with long squirming. Once I was very hungry in the +Bonaventure graveyard near Savannah, Georgia, having fasted for several +days; then the empty stomach seemed to chafe in much the same way as +now, and a somewhat similar tenderness and aching was produced, hard to +bear, though the pain was not acute. We dream of bread, a sure sign we +need it. Like the Indians, we ought to know how to get the starch out of +fern and saxifrage stalks, lily bulbs, pine bark, etc. Our education has +been sadly neglected for many generations. Wild rice would be good. I +noticed a leersia in wet meadow edges, but the seeds are small. Acorns +are not ripe, nor pine nuts, nor filberts. The inner bark of pine or +spruce might be tried. Drank tea until half intoxicated. Man seems to +crave a stimulant when anything extraordinary is going on, and this is +the only one I use. Billy chews great quantities of tobacco, which I +suppose helps to stupefy and moderate his misery. We look and listen for +the Don every hour. How beautiful upon the mountains his big feet would +be! + +In the warm, hospitable Sierra, shepherds and mountain men in general, +as far as I have seen, are easily satisfied as to food supplies and +bedding. Most of them are heartily content to "rough it," ignoring +Nature's fineness as bothersome or unmanly. The shepherd's bed is often +only the bare ground and a pair of blankets, with a stone, a piece of +wood, or a pack-saddle for a pillow. In choosing the spot, he shows less +care than the dogs, for they usually deliberate before making up their +minds in so important an affair, going from place to place, scraping +away loose sticks and pebbles, and trying for comfort by making many +changes, while the shepherd casts himself down anywhere, seemingly the +least skilled of all rest seekers. His food, too, even when he has all +he wants, is usually far from delicate, either in kind or cooking. +Beans, bread of any sort, bacon, mutton, dried peaches, and sometimes +potatoes and onions, make up his bill-of-fare, the two latter articles +being regarded as luxuries on account of their weight as compared with +the nourishment they contain; a half-sack or so of each may be put into +the pack in setting out from the home ranch and in a few days they are +done. Beans are the main standby, portable, wholesome, and capable of +going far, besides being easily cooked, although curiously enough a +great deal of mystery is supposed to lie about the bean-pot. No two +cooks quite agree on the methods of making beans do their best, and, +after petting and coaxing and nursing the savory mess,--well oiled and +mellowed with bacon boiled into the heart of it,--the proud cook will +ask, after dishing out a quart or two for trial, "Well, how do you like +_my_ beans?" as if by no possibility could they be like any other beans +cooked in the same way, but must needs possess some special virtue of +which he alone is master. Molasses, sugar, or pepper may be used to give +desired flavors; or the first water may be poured off and a spoonful or +two of ashes or soda added to dissolve or soften the skins more fully, +according to various tastes and notions. But, like casks of wine, no two +potfuls are exactly alike to every palate. Some are supposed to be +spoiled by the moon, by some unlucky day, by the beans having been grown +on soil not suitable; or the whole year may be to blame as not favorable +for beans. + +Coffee, too, has its marvels in the camp kitchen, but not so many, and +not so inscrutable as those that beset the bean-pot. A low, complacent +grunt follows a mouthful drawn in with a gurgle, and the remark cast +forth aimlessly, "That's good coffee." Then another gurgling sip and +repetition of the judgment, "_Yes, sir_, that _is_ good coffee." As to +tea, there are but two kinds, weak and strong, the stronger the better. +The only remark heard is, "That tea's weak," otherwise it is good enough +and not worth mentioning. If it has been boiled an hour or two or smoked +on a pitchy fire, no matter,--who cares for a little tannin or creosote? +they make the black beverage all the stronger and more attractive to +tobacco-tanned palates. + +Sheep-camp bread, like most California camp bread, is baked in Dutch +ovens, some of it in the form of yeast powder biscuit, an unwholesome +sticky compound leading straight to dyspepsia. The greater part, +however, is fermented with sour dough, a handful from each batch being +saved and put away in the mouth of the flour sack to inoculate the +next. The oven is simply a cast-iron pot, about five inches deep and +from twelve to eighteen inches wide. After the batch has been mixed and +kneaded in a tin pan the oven is slightly heated and rubbed with a piece +of tallow or pork rind. The dough is then placed in it, pressed out +against the sides, and left to rise. When ready for baking a shovelful +of coals is spread out by the side of the fire and the oven set upon +them, while another shovelful is placed on top of the lid, which is +raised from time to time to see that the requisite amount of heat is +being kept up. With care good bread may be made in this way, though it +is liable to be burned or to be sour, or raised too much, and the weight +of the oven is a serious objection. + +At last Don Delaney comes doon the lang glen--hunger vanishes, we turn +our eyes to the mountains, and to-morrow we go climbing toward +cloudland. + +Never while anything is left of me shall this first camp be forgotten. +It has fairly grown into me, not merely as memory pictures, but as part +and parcel of mind and body alike. The deep hopper-like hollow, with its +majestic trees through which all the wonderful nights the stars poured +their beauty. The flowery wildness of the high steep slope toward +Brown's Flat, and its bloom-fragrance descending at the close of the +still days. The embowered river-reaches with their multitude of voices +making melody, the stately flow and rush and glad exulting onsweeping +currents caressing the dipping sedge-leaves and bushes and mossy stones, +swirling in pools, dividing against little flowery islands, breaking +gray and white here and there, ever rejoicing, yet with deep solemn +undertones recalling the ocean--the brave little bird ever beside them, +singing with sweet human tones among the waltzing foam-bells, and like a +blessed evangel explaining God's love. And the Pilot Peak Ridge, its +long withdrawing slopes gracefully modeled and braided, reaching from +climate to climate, feathered with trees that are the kings of their +race, their ranks nobly marshaled to view, spire above spire, crown +above crown, waving their long, leafy arms, tossing their cones like +ringing bells--blessed sun-fed mountaineers rejoicing in their strength, +every tree tuneful, a harp for the winds and the sun. The hazel and +buckthorn pastures of the deer, the sun-beaten brows purple and yellow +with mint and golden-rods, carpeted with chamæbatia, humming with bees. +And the dawns and sunrises and sundowns of these mountain days,--the +rose light creeping higher among the stars, changing to daffodil yellow, +the level beams bursting forth, streaming across the ridges, touching +pine after pine, awakening and warming all the mighty host to do gladly +their shining day's work. The great sun-gold noons, the alabaster +cloud-mountains, the landscape beaming with consciousness like the face +of a god. The sunsets, when the trees stood hushed awaiting their +good-night blessings. Divine, enduring, unwastable wealth. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +TO THE HIGH MOUNTAINS + + +_July 8._ Now away we go toward the topmost mountains. Many still, small +voices, as well as the noon thunder, are calling, "Come higher." +Farewell, blessed dell, woods, gardens, streams, birds, squirrels, +lizards, and a thousand others. Farewell. Farewell. + +Up through the woods the hoofed locusts streamed beneath a cloud of +brown dust. Scarcely were they driven a hundred yards from the old +corral ere they seemed to know that at last they were going to new +pastures, and rushed wildly ahead, crowding through gaps in the brush, +jumping, tumbling like exulting hurrahing flood-waters escaping through +a broken dam. A man on each flank kept shouting advice to the leaders, +who in their famishing condition were behaving like Gadarene swine; two +other drivers were busy with stragglers, helping them out of brush +tangles; the Indian, calm, alert, silently watched for wanderers likely +to be overlooked; the two dogs ran here and there, at a loss to know +what was best to be done, while the Don, soon far in the rear, was +trying to keep in sight of his troublesome wealth. + +[Illustration: DIVIDE BETWEEN THE TUOLUMNE AND THE MERCED BELOW HAZEL +GREEN] + +As soon as the boundary of the old eaten-out range was passed the hungry +horde suddenly became calm, like a mountain stream in a meadow. +Thenceforward they were allowed to eat their way as slowly as they +wished, care being taken only to keep them headed toward the summit of +the Merced and Tuolumne divide. Soon the two thousand flattened paunches +were bulged out with sweet-pea vines and grass, and the gaunt, desperate +creatures, more like wolves than sheep, became bland and governable, +while the howling drivers changed to gentle shepherds, and sauntered in +peace. + +Toward sundown we reached Hazel Green, a charming spot on the summit of +the dividing ridge between the basins of the Merced and Tuolumne, where +there is a small brook flowing through hazel and dogwood thickets +beneath magnificent silver firs and pines. Here, we are camped for the +night, our big fire, heaped high with rosiny logs and branches, is +blazing like a sunrise, gladly giving back the light slowly sifted from +the sunbeams of centuries of summers; and in the glow of that old +sunlight how impressively surrounding objects are brought forward in +relief against the outer darkness! Grasses, larkspurs, columbines, +lilies, hazel bushes, and the great trees form a circle around the fire +like thoughtful spectators, gazing and listening with human-like +enthusiasm. The night breeze is cool, for all day we have been climbing +into the upper sky, the home of the cloud mountains we so long have +admired. How sweet and keen the air! Every breath a blessing. Here the +sugar pine reaches its fullest development in size and beauty and number +of individuals, filling every swell and hollow and down-plunging ravine +almost to the exclusion of other species. A few yellow pines are still +to be found as companions, and in the coolest places silver firs; but +noble as these are, the sugar pine is king, and spreads long protecting +arms above them while they rock and wave in sign of recognition. + +We have now reached a height of six thousand feet. In the forenoon we +passed along a flat part of the dividing ridge that is planted with +manzanita (_Arctostaphylos_), some specimens the largest I have seen. I +measured one, the bole of which is four feet in diameter and only +eighteen inches high from the ground, where it dissolves into many +wide-spreading branches forming a broad round head about ten or twelve +feet high, covered with clusters of small narrow-throated pink bells. +The leaves are pale green, glandular, and set on edge by a twist of the +petiole. The branches seem naked; for the chocolate-colored bark is very +smooth and thin, and is shed off in flakes that curl when dry. The wood +is red, close-grained, hard, and heavy. I wonder how old these curious +tree-bushes are, probably as old as the great pines. Indians and bears +and birds and fat grubs feast on the berries, which look like small +apples, often rosy on one side, green on the other. The Indians are said +to make a kind of beer or cider out of them. There are many species. +This one, _Arctostaphylos pungens_, is common hereabouts. No need have +they to fear the wind, so low they are and steadfastly rooted. Even the +fires that sweep the woods seldom destroy them utterly, for they rise +again from the root, and some of the dry ridges they grow on are seldom +touched by fire. I must try to know them better. + +I miss my river songs to-night. Here Hazel Creek at its topmost springs +has a voice like a bird. The wind-tones in the great trees overhead are +strangely impressive, all the more because not a leaf stirs below them. +But it grows late, and I must to bed. The camp is silent; everybody +asleep. It seems extravagant to spend hours so precious in sleep. "He +giveth his beloved sleep." Pity the poor beloved needs it, weak, weary, +forspent; oh, the pity of it, to sleep in the midst of eternal, +beautiful motion instead of gazing forever, like the stars. + +_July 9._ Exhilarated with the mountain air, I feel like shouting this +morning with excess of wild animal joy. The Indian lay down away from +the fire last night, without blankets, having nothing on, by way of +clothing, but a pair of blue overalls and a calico shirt wet with sweat. +The night air is chilly at this elevation, and we gave him some +horse-blankets, but he didn't seem to care for them. A fine thing to be +independent of clothing where it is so hard to carry. When food is +scarce, he can live on whatever comes in his way--a few berries, roots, +bird eggs, grasshoppers, black ants, fat wasp or bumblebee larvæ, +without feeling that he is doing anything worth mention, so I have been +told. + +[Illustration: _A Silver Fir, or Red Fir (Abies magnifica)_] + +Our course to-day was along the broad top of the main ridge to a hollow +beyond Crane Flat. It is scarce at all rocky, and is covered with the +noblest pines and spruces I have yet seen. Sugar pines from six to eight +feet in diameter are not uncommon, with a height of two hundred feet or +even more. The silver firs (_Abies concolor_ and _A. magnifica_) are +exceedingly beautiful, especially the _magnifica_, which becomes +more abundant the higher we go. It is of great size, one of the most +notable in every way of the giant conifers of the Sierra. I saw +specimens that measured seven feet in diameter and over two hundred feet +in height, while the average size for what might be called full-grown +mature trees can hardly be less than one hundred and eighty or two +hundred feet high and five or six feet in diameter; and with these noble +dimensions there is a symmetry and perfection of finish not to be seen +in any other tree, hereabout at least. The branches are whorled in fives +mostly, and stand out from the tall, straight, exquisitely tapered bole +in level collars, each branch regularly pinnated like the fronds of +ferns, and densely clad with leaves all around the branchlets, thus +giving them a singularly rich and sumptuous appearance. The extreme top +of the tree is a thick blunt shoot pointing straight to the zenith like +an admonishing finger. The cones stand erect like casks on the upper +branches. They are about six inches long, three in diameter, blunt, +velvety, and cylindrical in form, and very rich and precious looking. +The seeds are about three quarters of an inch long, dark reddish brown +with brilliant iridescent purple wings, and when ripe, the cone falls +to pieces, and the seeds thus set free at a height of one hundred and +fifty or two hundred feet have a good send off and may fly considerable +distances in a good breeze; and it is when a good breeze is blowing that +most of them are shaken free to fly. + +The other species, _Abies concolor_, attains nearly as great a height +and thickness as the _magnifica_, but the branches do not form such +regular whorls, nor are they so exactly pinnated or richly leaf-clad. +Instead of growing all around the branchlets, the leaves are mostly +arranged in two flat horizontal rows. The cones and seeds are like those +of the _magnifica_ in form but less than half as large. The bark of the +_magnifica_ is reddish purple and closely furrowed, that of the +_concolor_ gray and widely furrowed. A noble pair. + +At Crane Flat we climbed a thousand feet or more in a distance of about +two miles, the forest growing more dense and the silvery _magnifica_ fir +forming a still greater portion of the whole. Crane Flat is a meadow +with a wide sandy border lying on the top of the divide. It is often +visited by blue cranes to rest and feed on their long journeys, hence +the name. It is about half a mile long, draining into the Merced, sedgy +in the middle, with a margin bright with lilies, columbines, larkspurs, +lupines, castilleia, then an outer zone of dry, gently sloping ground +starred with a multitude of small flowers,--eunanus, mimulus, gilia, +with rosettes of spraguea, and tufts of several species of eriogonum and +the brilliant zauschneria. The noble forest wall about it is made up of +the two silver firs and the yellow and sugar pines, which here seem to +reach their highest pitch of beauty and grandeur; for the elevation, six +thousand feet or a little more, is not too great for the sugar and +yellow pines or too low for the _magnifica_ fir, while the _concolor_ +seems to find this elevation the best possible. About a mile from the +north end of the flat there is a grove of _Sequoia gigantea_, the king +of all the conifers. Furthermore, the Douglas spruce (_Pseudotsuga +Douglasii_) and _Libocedrus decurrens_, and a few two-leaved pines, +occur here and there, forming a small part of the forest. Three pines, +two silver firs, one Douglas spruce, one sequoia,--all of them, except +the two-leaved pine, colossal trees,--are found here together, an +assemblage of conifers unrivaled on the globe. + +We passed a number of charming garden-like meadows lying on top of the +divide or hanging like ribbons down its sides, imbedded in the glorious +forest. Some are taken up chiefly with the tall white-flowered _Veratrum +Californicum_, with boat-shaped leaves about a foot long, eight or ten +inches wide, and veined like those of cypripedium,--a robust, hearty, +liliaceous plant, fond of water and determined to be seen. Columbine and +larkspur grow on the dryer edges of the meadows, with a tall handsome +lupine standing waist-deep in long grasses and sedges. Castilleias, too, +of several species make a bright show with beds of violets at their +feet. But the glory of these forest meadows is a lily (_L. parvum_). The +tallest are from seven to eight feet high with magnificent racemes of +ten to twenty or more small orange-colored flowers; they stand out free +in open ground, with just enough grass and other companion plants about +them to fringe their feet, and show them off to best advantage. This is +a grand addition to my lily acquaintances,--a true mountaineer, reaching +prime vigor and beauty at a height of seven thousand feet or +thereabouts. It varies, I find, very much in size even in the same +meadow, not only with the soil, but with age. I saw a specimen that had +only one flower, and another within a stone's throw had twenty-five. And +to think that the sheep should be allowed in these lily meadows! after +how many centuries of Nature's care planting and watering them, tucking +the bulbs in snugly below winter frost, shading the tender shoots with +clouds drawn above them like curtains, pouring refreshing rain, making +them perfect in beauty, and keeping them safe by a thousand miracles; +yet, strange to say, allowing the trampling of devastating sheep. One +might reasonably look for a wall of fire to fence such gardens. So +extravagant is Nature with her choicest treasures, spending plant beauty +as she spends sunshine, pouring it forth into land and sea, garden and +desert. And so the beauty of lilies falls on angels and men, bears and +squirrels, wolves and sheep, birds and bees, but as far as I have seen, +man alone, and the animals he tames, destroy these gardens. Awkward, +lumbering bears, the Don tells me, love to wallow in them in hot +weather, and deer with their sharp feet cross them again and again, +sauntering and feeding, yet never a lily have I seen spoiled by them. +Rather, like gardeners, they seem to cultivate them, pressing and +dibbling as required. Anyhow not a leaf or petal seems misplaced. + +The trees round about them seem as perfect in beauty and form as the +lilies, their boughs whorled like lily leaves in exact order. This +evening, as usual, the glow of our camp-fire is working enchantment on +everything within reach of its rays. Lying beneath the firs, it is +glorious to see them dipping their spires in the starry sky, the sky +like one vast lily meadow in bloom! How can I close my eyes on so +precious a night? + +_July 10._ A Douglas squirrel, peppery, pungent autocrat of the woods, +is barking overhead this morning, and the small forest birds, so seldom +seen when one travels noisily, are out on sunny branches along the edge +of the meadow getting warm, taking a sun bath and dew bath--a fine +sight. How charming the sprightly confident looks and ways of these +little feathered people of the trees! They seem sure of dainty, +wholesome breakfasts, and where are so many breakfasts to come from? How +helpless should we find ourselves should we try to set a table for them +of such buds, seeds, insects, etc., as would keep them in the pure wild +health they enjoy! Not a headache or any other ache amongst them, I +guess. As for the irrepressible Douglas squirrels, one never thinks of +their breakfasts or the possibility of hunger, sickness or death; rather +they seem like stars above chance or change, even though we may see them +at times busy gathering burrs, working hard for a living. + +On through the forest ever higher we go, a cloud of dust dimming the +way, thousands of feet trampling leaves and flowers, but in this mighty +wilderness they seem but a feeble band, and a thousand gardens will +escape their blighting touch. They cannot hurt the trees, though some of +the seedlings suffer, and should the woolly locusts be greatly +multiplied, as on account of dollar value they are likely to be, then +the forests, too, may in time be destroyed. Only the sky will then be +safe, though hid from view by dust and smoke, incense of a bad +sacrifice. Poor, helpless, hungry sheep, in great part misbegotten, +without good right to be, semi-manufactured, made less by God than man, +born out of time and place, yet their voices are strangely human and +call out one's pity. + +Our way is still along the Merced and Tuolumne divide, the streams on +our right going to swell the songful Yosemite River, those on our left +to the songful Tuolumne, slipping through sunny carex and lily meadows, +and breaking into song down a thousand ravines almost as soon as they +are born. A more tuneful set of streams surely nowhere exists, or more +sparkling crystal pure, now gliding with tinkling whisper, now with +merry dimpling rush, in and out through sunshine and shade, shimmering +in pools, uniting their currents, bouncing, dancing from form to form +over cliffs and inclines, ever more beautiful the farther they go until +they pour into the main glacial rivers. + +All day I have been gazing in growing admiration at the noble groups of +the magnificent silver fir which more and more is taking the ground to +itself. The woods above Crane Flat still continue comparatively open, +letting in the sunshine on the brown needle-strewn ground. Not only are +the individual trees admirable in symmetry and superb in foliage and +port, but half a dozen or more often form temple groves in which the +trees are so nicely graded in size and position as to seem one. Here, +indeed, is the tree-lover's paradise. The dullest eye in the world must +surely be quickened by such trees as these. + +Fortunately the sheep need little attention, as they are driven slowly +and allowed to nip and nibble as they like. Since leaving Hazel Green we +have been following the Yosemite trail; visitors to the famous valley +coming by way of Coulterville and Chinese Camp pass this way--the two +trails uniting at Crane Flat--and enter the valley on the north side. +Another trail enters on the south side by way of Mariposa. The tourists +we saw were in parties of from three or four to fifteen or twenty, +mounted on mules or small mustang ponies. A strange show they made, +winding single file through the solemn woods in gaudy attire, scaring +the wild creatures, and one might fancy that even the great pines would +be disturbed and groan aghast. But what may we say of ourselves and the +flock? + +We are now camped at Tamarack Flat, within four or five miles of the +lower end of Yosemite. Here is another fine meadow embosomed in the +woods, with a deep, clear stream gliding through it, its banks rounded +and beveled with a thatch of dipping sedges. The flat is named after the +two-leaved pine (_Pinus contorta_, var. _Murrayana_), common here, +especially around the cool margin of the meadow. On rocky ground it is a +rough, thickset tree, about forty to sixty feet high and one to three +feet in diameter, bark thin and gummy, branches rather naked, tassels, +leaves, and cones small. But in damp, rich soil it grows close and +slender, and reaches a height at times of nearly a hundred feet. +Specimens only six inches in diameter at the ground are often fifty or +sixty feet in height, as slender and sharp in outline as arrows, like +the true tamarack (larch) of the Eastern States; hence the name, though +it is a pine. + +_July 11._ The Don has gone ahead on one of the pack animals to spy out +the land to the north of Yosemite in search of the best point for a +central camp. Much higher than this we cannot now go, for the upper +pastures, said to be better than any hereabouts, are still buried in +heavy winter snow. Glad I am that camp is to be fixed in the Yosemite +region, for many a glorious ramble I'll have along the top of the walls, +and then what landscapes I shall find with their new mountains and +cañons, forests and gardens, lakes and streams and falls. + +We are now about seven thousand feet above the sea, and the nights are +so cool we have to pile coats and extra clothing on top of our blankets. +Tamarack Creek is icy cold, delicious, exhilarating champagne water. It +is flowing bank-full in the meadow with silent speed, but only a few +hundred yards below our camp the ground is bare gray granite strewn with +boulders, large spaces being without a single tree or only a small one +here and there anchored in narrow seams and cracks. The boulders, many +of them very large, are not in piles or scattered like rubbish among +loose crumbling débris as if weathered out of the solid as boulders of +disintegration; they mostly occur singly, and are lying on a clean +pavement on which the sunshine falls in a glare that contrasts with the +shimmer of light and shade we have been accustomed to in the leafy +woods. And, strange to say, these boulders lying so still and deserted, +with no moving force near them, no boulder carrier anywhere in sight, +were nevertheless brought from a distance, as difference in color and +composition shows, quarried and carried and laid down here each in its +place; nor have they stirred, most of them, through calm and storm since +first they arrived. They look lonely here, strangers in a strange +land,--huge blocks, angular mountain chips, the largest twenty or thirty +feet in diameter, the chips that Nature has made in modeling her +landscapes, fashioning the forms of her mountains and valleys. And with +what tool were they quarried and carried? On the pavement we find its +marks. The most resisting unweathered portion of the surface is scored +and striated in a rigidly parallel way, indicating that the region has +been overswept by a glacier from the northeastward, grinding down the +general mass of the mountains, scoring and polishing, producing a +strange, raw, wiped appearance, and dropping whatever boulders it +chanced to be carrying at the time it was melted at the close of the +Glacial Period. A fine discovery this. As for the forests we have been +passing through, they are probably growing on deposits of soil most of +which has been laid down by this same ice agent in the form of moraines +of different sorts, now in great part disintegrated and outspread by +post-glacial weathering. + +Out of the grassy meadow and down over this ice-planed granite runs the +glad young Tamarack Creek, rejoicing, exulting, chanting, dancing in +white, glowing, irised falls and cascades on its way to the Merced +Cañon, a few miles below Yosemite, falling more than three thousand feet +in a distance of about two miles. + +All the Merced streams are wonderful singers, and Yosemite is the centre +where the main tributaries meet. From a point about half a mile from our +camp we can see into the lower end of the famous valley, with its +wonderful cliffs and groves, a grand page of mountain manuscript that I +would gladly give my life to be able to read. How vast it seems, how +short human life when we happen to think of it, and how little we may +learn, however hard we try! Yet why bewail our poor inevitable +ignorance? Some of the external beauty is always in sight, enough to +keep every fibre of us tingling, and this we are able to gloriously +enjoy though the methods of its creation may lie beyond our ken. Sing +on, brave Tamarack Creek, fresh from your snowy fountains, plash and +swirl and dance to your fate in the sea; bathing, cheering every living +thing along your way. + +Have greatly enjoyed all this huge day, sauntering and seeing, steeping +in the mountain influences, sketching, noting, pressing flowers, +drinking ozone and Tamarack water. Found the white fragrant Washington +lily, the finest of all the Sierra lilies. Its bulbs are buried in +shaggy chaparral tangles, I suppose for safety from pawing bears; and +its magnificent panicles sway and rock over the top of the rough +snow-pressed bushes, while big, bold, blunt-nosed bees drone and mumble +in its polleny bells. A lovely flower, worth going hungry and footsore +endless miles to see. The whole world seems richer now that I have found +this plant in so noble a landscape. + +A log house serves to mark a claim to the Tamarack meadow, which may +become valuable as a station in case travel to Yosemite should greatly +increase. Belated parties occasionally stop here. A white man with an +Indian woman is holding possession of the place. + +Sauntered up the meadow about sundown, out of sight of camp and sheep +and all human mark, into the deep peace of the solemn old woods, +everything glowing with Heaven's unquenchable enthusiasm. + +_July 12._ The Don has returned, and again we go on pilgrimage. +"Looking over the Yosemite Creek country," he said, "from the tops of +the hills you see nothing but rocks and patches of trees; but when you +go down into the rocky desert you find no end of small grassy banks and +meadows, and so the country is not half so lean as it looks. There we'll +go and stay until the snow is melted from the upper country." + +I was glad to hear that the high snow made a stay in the Yosemite region +necessary, for I am anxious to see as much of it as possible. What fine +times I shall have sketching, studying plants and rocks, and scrambling +about the brink of the great valley alone, out of sight and sound of +camp! + +We saw another party of Yosemite tourists to-day. Somehow most of these +travelers seem to care but little for the glorious objects about them, +though enough to spend time and money and endure long rides to see the +famous valley. And when they are fairly within the mighty walls of the +temple and hear the psalms of the falls, they will forget themselves and +become devout. Blessed, indeed, should be every pilgrim in these holy +mountains! + +We moved slowly eastward along the Mono Trail, and early in the +afternoon unpacked and camped on the bank of Cascade Creek. The Mono +Trail crosses the range by the Bloody Cañon Pass to gold mines near the +north end of Mono Lake. These mines were reported to be rich when first +discovered, and a grand rush took place, making a trail necessary. A few +small bridges were built over streams where fording was not practicable +on account of the softness of the bottom, sections of fallen trees cut +out, and lanes made through thickets wide enough to allow the passage of +bulky packs; but over the greater part of the way scarce a stone or +shovelful of earth has been moved. + +The woods we passed through are composed almost wholly of _Abies +magnifica_, the companion species, _concolor_, being mostly left behind +on account of altitude, while the increasing elevation seems grateful to +the charming _magnifica_. No words can do anything like justice to this +noble tree. At one place many had fallen during some heavy wind-storm, +owing to the loose sandy character of the soil, which offered no secure +anchorage. The soil is mostly decomposed and disintegrated moraine +material. + +The sheep are lying down on a bare rocky spot such as they like, chewing +the cud in grassy peace. Cooking is going on, appetites growing keener +every day. No lowlander can appreciate the mountain appetite, and the +facility with which heavy food called "grub" is disposed of. Eating, +walking, resting, seem alike delightful, and one feels inclined to shout +lustily on rising in the morning like a crowing cock. Sleep and +digestion as clear as the air. Fine spicy plush boughs for bedding we +shall have to-night, and a glorious lullaby from this cascading creek. +Never was stream more fittingly named, for as far as I have traced it +above and below our camp it is one continuous bouncing, dancing, white +bloom of cascades. And at the very last unwearied it finishes its wild +course in a grand leap of three hundred feet or more to the bottom of +the main Yosemite cañon near the fall of Tamarack Creek, a few miles +below the foot of the valley. These falls almost rival some of the +far-famed Yosemite falls. Never shall I forget these glad cascade songs, +the low booming, the roaring, the keen, silvery clashing of the cool +water rushing exulting from form to form beneath irised spray; or in the +deep still night seen white in the darkness, and its multitude of voices +sounding still more impressively sublime. Here I find the little water +ouzel as much at home as any linnet in a leafy grove, seeming to take +the greater delight the more boisterous the stream. The dizzy +precipices, the swift dashing energy displayed, and the thunder tones of +the sheer falls are awe inspiring, but there is nothing awful about +this little bird. Its song is sweet and low, and all its gestures, as it +flits about amid the loud uproar, bespeak strength and peace and joy. +Contemplating these darlings of Nature coming forth from spray-sprinkled +nests on the brink of savage streams, Samson's riddle comes to mind, +"Out of the strong cometh forth sweetness." A yet finer bloom is this +little bird than the foam-bells in eddying pools. Gentle bird, a +precious message you bring me. We may miss the meaning of the torrent, +but thy sweet voice, only love is in it. + +_July 13._ Our course all day has been eastward over the rim of Yosemite +Creek basin and down about halfway to the bottom, where we have encamped +on a sheet of glacier-polished granite, a firm foundation for beds. Saw +the tracks of a very large bear on the trail, and the Don talked of +bears in general. I said I should like to see the maker of these immense +tracks as he marched along, and follow him for days, without disturbing +him, to learn something of the life of this master beast of the +wilderness. Lambs, the Don told me, born in the lowland, that never saw +or heard a bear, snort and run in terror when they catch the scent, +showing how fully they have inherited a knowledge of their enemy. Hogs, +mules, horses, and cattle are afraid of bears, and are seized with +ungovernable terror when they approach, particularly hogs and mules. +Hogs are frequently driven to pastures in the foothills of the Coast +Range and Sierra where acorns are abundant, and are herded in droves of +hundreds like sheep. When a bear comes to the range they promptly leave +it, emigrating in a body, usually in the night time, the keepers being +powerless to prevent; they thus show more sense than sheep, that simply +scatter in the rocks and brush and await their fate. Mules flee like the +wind with or without riders when they see a bear, and, if picketed, +sometimes break their necks in trying to break their ropes, though I +have not heard of bears killing mules or horses. Of hogs they are said +to be particularly fond, bolting small ones, bones and all, without +choice of parts. In particular, Mr. Delaney assured me that all kinds of +bears in the Sierra are very shy, and that hunters found far greater +difficulty in getting within gunshot of them than of deer or indeed any +other animal in the Sierra, and if I was anxious to see much of them I +should have to wait and watch with endless Indian patience and pay no +attention to anything else. + +Night is coming on, the gray rock waves are growing dim in the twilight. +How raw and young this region appears! Had the ice sheet that swept +over it vanished but yesterday, its traces on the more resisting +portions about our camp could hardly be more distinct than they now are. +The horses and sheep and all of us, indeed, slipped on the smoothest +places. + +_July 14._ How deathlike is sleep in this mountain air, and quick the +awakening into newness of life! A calm dawn, yellow and purple, then +floods of sun-gold, making every thing tingle and glow. + +In an hour or two we came to Yosemite Creek, the stream that makes the +greatest of all the Yosemite falls. It is about forty feet wide at the +Mono Trail crossing, and now about four feet in average depth, flowing +about three miles an hour. The distance to the verge of the Yosemite +wall, where it makes its tremendous plunge, is only about two miles from +here. Calm, beautiful, and nearly silent, it glides with stately +gestures, a dense growth of the slender two-leaved pine along its banks, +and a fringe of willow, purple spirea, sedges, daisies, lilies, and +columbines. Some of the sedges and willow boughs dip into the current, +and just outside of the close ranks of trees there is a sunny flat of +washed gravelly sand which seems to have been deposited by some ancient +flood. It is covered with millions of erethrea, eriogonum, and +oxytheca, with more flowers than leaves, forming an even growth, +slightly dimpled and ruffled here and there by rosettes of _Spraguea +umbellata_. Back of this flowery strip there is a wavy upsloping plain +of solid granite, so smoothly ice-polished in many places that it +glistens in the sun like glass. In shallow hollows there are patches of +trees, mostly the rough form of the two-leaved pine, rather scrawny +looking where there is little or no soil. Also a few junipers +(_Juniperus occidentalis_), short and stout, with bright +cinnamon-colored bark and gray foliage, standing alone mostly, on the +sun-beaten pavement, safe from fire, clinging by slight joints,--a +sturdy storm-enduring mountaineer of a tree, living on sunshine and +snow, maintaining tough health on this diet for perhaps more than a +thousand years. + +Up towards the head of the basin I see groups of domes rising above the +wavelike ridges, and some picturesque castellated masses, and dark +strips and patches of silver fir, indicating deposits of fertile soil. +Would that I could command the time to study them! What rich excursions +one could make in this well-defined basin! Its glacial inscriptions and +sculptures, how marvelous they seem, how noble the studies they offer! I +tremble with excitement in the dawn of these glorious mountain +sublimities, but I can only gaze and wonder, and, like a child, gather +here and there a lily, half hoping I may be able to study and learn in +years to come. + +The drivers and dogs had a lively, laborious time getting the sheep +across the creek, the second large stream thus far that they have been +compelled to cross without a bridge; the first being the North Fork of +the Merced near Bower Cave. Men and dogs, shouting and barking, drove +the timid, water-fearing creatures in a close crowd against the bank, +but not one of the flock would launch away. While thus jammed, the Don +and the shepherd rushed through the frightened crowd to stampede those +in front, but this would only cause a break backward, and away they +would scamper through the stream-bank trees and scatter over the rocky +pavement. Then with the aid of the dogs the runaways would again be +gathered and made to face the stream, and again the compacted mass would +break away, amid wild shouting and barking that might well have +disturbed the stream itself and marred the music of its falls, to which +visitors no doubt from all quarters of the globe were listening. "Hold +them there! Now hold them there!" shouted the Don; "the front ranks will +soon tire of the pressure, and be glad to take to the water, then all +will jump in and cross in a hurry." But they did nothing of the kind; +they only avoided the pressure by breaking back in scores and hundreds, +leaving the beauty of the banks sadly trampled. + +If only one could be got to cross over, all would make haste to follow; +but that one could not be found. A lamb was caught, carried across, and +tied to a bush on the opposite bank, where it cried piteously for its +mother. But though greatly concerned, the mother only called it back. +That play on maternal affection failed, and we began to fear that we +should be forced to make a long roundabout drive and cross the +wide-spread tributaries of the creek in succession. This would require +several days, but it had its advantages, for I was eager to see the +sources of so famous a stream. Don Quixote, however, determined that +they must ford just here, and immediately began a sort of siege by +cutting down slender pines on the bank and building a corral barely +large enough to hold the flock when well pressed together. And as the +stream would form one side of the corral he believed that they could +easily be forced into the water. + +In a few hours the inclosure was completed, and the silly animals were +driven in and rammed hard against the brink of the ford. Then the Don, +forcing a way through the compacted mass, pitched a few of the terrified +unfortunates into the stream by main strength; but instead of crossing +over, they swam about close to the bank, making desperate attempts to +get back into the flock. Then a dozen or more were shoved off, and the +Don, tall like a crane and a good natural wader, jumped in after them, +seized a struggling wether, and dragged it to the opposite shore. But no +sooner did he let it go than it jumped into the stream and swam back to +its frightened companions in the corral, thus manifesting sheep-nature +as unchangeable as gravitation. Pan with his pipes would have had no +better luck, I fear. We were now pretty well baffled. The silly +creatures would suffer any sort of death rather than cross that stream. +Calling a council, the dripping Don declared that starvation was now the +only likely scheme to try, and that we might as well camp here in +comfort and let the besieged flock grow hungry and cool, and come to +their senses, if they had any. In a few minutes after being thus let +alone, an adventurer in the foremost rank plunged in and swam bravely to +the farther shore. Then suddenly all rushed in pell-mell together, +trampling one another under water, while we vainly tried to hold them +back. The Don jumped into the thickest of the gasping, gurgling, +drowning mass, and shoved them right and left as if each sheep was a +piece of floating timber. The current also served to drift them apart; a +long bent column was soon formed, and in a few minutes all were over and +began baaing and feeding as if nothing out of the common had happened. +That none were drowned seems wonderful. I fully expected that hundreds +would gain the romantic fate of being swept into Yosemite over the +highest waterfall in the world. + +As the day was far spent, we camped a little way back from the ford, and +let the dripping flock scatter and feed until sundown. The wool is dry +now, and calm, cud-chewing peace has fallen on all the comfortable band, +leaving no trace of the watery battle. I have seen fish driven out of +the water with less ado than was made in driving these animals into it. +Sheep brain must surely be poor stuff. Compare today's exhibition with +the performances of deer swimming quietly across broad and rapid rivers, +and from island to island in seas and lakes; or with dogs, or even with +the squirrels that, as the story goes, cross the Mississippi River on +selected chips, with tails for sails comfortably trimmed to the breeze. +A sheep can hardly be called an animal; an entire flock is required to +make one foolish individual. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE YOSEMITE + + +_July 15._ Followed the Mono Trail up the eastern rim of the basin +nearly to its summit, then turned off southward to a small shallow +valley that extends to the edge of the Yosemite, which we reached about +noon, and encamped. After luncheon I made haste to high ground, and from +the top of the ridge on the west side of Indian Cañon gained the noblest +view of the summit peaks I have ever yet enjoyed. Nearly all the upper +basin of the Merced was displayed, with its sublime domes and cañons, +dark upsweeping forests, and glorious array of white peaks deep in the +sky, every feature glowing, radiating beauty that pours into our flesh +and bones like heat rays from fire. Sunshine over all; no breath of wind +to stir the brooding calm. Never before had I seen so glorious a +landscape, so boundless an affluence of sublime mountain beauty. The +most extravagant description I might give of this view to any one who +has not seen similar landscapes with his own eyes would not so much as +hint its grandeur and the spiritual glow that covered it. I shouted and +gesticulated in a wild burst of ecstasy, much to the astonishment of +St. Bernard Carlo, who came running up to me, manifesting in his +intelligent eyes a puzzled concern that was very ludicrous, which had +the effect of bringing me to my senses. A brown bear, too, it would +seem, had been a spectator of the show I had made of myself, for I had +gone but a few yards when I started one from a thicket of brush. He +evidently considered me dangerous, for he ran away very fast, tumbling +over the tops of the tangled manzanita bushes in his haste. Carlo drew +back, with his ears depressed as if afraid, and kept looking me in the +face, as if expecting me to pursue and shoot, for he had seen many a +bear battle in his day. + +Following the ridge, which made a gradual descent to the south, I came +at length to the brow of that massive cliff that stands between Indian +Cañon and Yosemite Falls, and here the far-famed valley came suddenly +into view throughout almost its whole extent. The noble walls--sculptured +into endless variety of domes and gables, spires and battlements and +plain mural precipices--all a-tremble with the thunder tones of the +falling water. The level bottom seemed to be dressed like a garden--sunny +meadows here and there, and groves of pine and oak; the river of Mercy +sweeping in majesty through the midst of them and flashing back the +sunbeams. The great Tissiack, or Half-Dome, rising at the upper end of +the valley to a height of nearly a mile, is nobly proportioned and +life-like, the most impressive of all the rocks, holding the eye in +devout admiration, calling it back again and again from falls or meadows, +or even the mountains beyond,--marvelous cliffs, marvelous in sheer dizzy +depth and sculpture, types of endurance. Thousands of years have they +stood in the sky exposed to rain, snow, frost, earthquake and avalanche, +yet they still wear the bloom of youth. + +I rambled along the valley rim to the westward; most of it is rounded +off on the very brink, so that it is not easy to find places where one +may look clear down the face of the wall to the bottom. When such places +were found, and I had cautiously set my feet and drawn my body erect, I +could not help fearing a little that the rock might split off and let me +down, and what a down!--more than three thousand feet. Still my limbs +did not tremble, nor did I feel the least uncertainty as to the reliance +to be placed on them. My only fear was that a flake of the granite, +which in some places showed joints more or less open and running +parallel with the face of the cliff, might give way. After withdrawing +from such places, excited with the view I had got, I would say to +myself, "Now don't go out on the verge again." But in the face of +Yosemite scenery cautious remonstrance is vain; under its spell one's +body seems to go where it likes with a will over which we seem to have +scarce any control. + +After a mile or so of this memorable cliff work I approached Yosemite +Creek, admiring its easy, graceful, confident gestures as it comes +bravely forward in its narrow channel, singing the last of its mountain +songs on its way to its fate--a few rods more over the shining granite, +then down half a mile in showy foam to another world, to be lost in the +Merced, where climate, vegetation, inhabitants, all are different. +Emerging from its last gorge, it glides in wide lace-like rapids down a +smooth incline into a pool where it seems to rest and compose its gray, +agitated waters before taking the grand plunge, then slowly slipping +over the lip of the pool basin, it descends another glossy slope with +rapidly accelerated speed to the brink of the tremendous cliff, and with +sublime, fateful confidence springs out free in the air. + +I took off my shoes and stockings and worked my way cautiously down +alongside the rushing flood, keeping my feet and hands pressed firmly on +the polished rock. The booming, roaring water, rushing past close to my +head, was very exciting. I had expected that the sloping apron would +terminate with the perpendicular wall of the valley, and that from the +foot of it, where it is less steeply inclined, I should be able to lean +far enough out to see the forms and behavior of the fall all the way +down to the bottom. But I found that there was yet another small brow +over which I could not see, and which appeared to be too steep for +mortal feet. Scanning it keenly, I discovered a narrow shelf about three +inches wide on the very brink, just wide enough for a rest for one's +heels. But there seemed to be no way of reaching it over so steep a +brow. At length, after careful scrutiny of the surface, I found an +irregular edge of a flake of the rock some distance back from the margin +of the torrent. If I was to get down to the brink at all that rough +edge, which might offer slight finger-holds, was the only way. But the +slope beside it looked dangerously smooth and steep, and the swift +roaring flood beneath, overhead, and beside me was very nerve-trying. I +therefore concluded not to venture farther, but did nevertheless. Tufts +of artemisia were growing in clefts of the rock near by, and I filled my +mouth with the bitter leaves, hoping they might help to prevent +giddiness. Then, with a caution not known in ordinary circumstances, I +crept down safely to the little ledge, got my heels well planted on it, +then shuffled in a horizontal direction twenty or thirty feet until +close to the outplunging current, which, by the time it had descended +thus far, was already white. Here I obtained a perfectly free view down +into the heart of the snowy, chanting throng of comet-like streamers, +into which the body of the fall soon separates. + +While perched on that narrow niche I was not distinctly conscious of +danger. The tremendous grandeur of the fall in form and sound and +motion, acting at close range, smothered the sense of fear, and in such +places one's body takes keen care for safety on its own account. How +long I remained down there, or how I returned, I can hardly tell. Anyhow +I had a glorious time, and got back to camp about dark, enjoying +triumphant exhilaration soon followed by dull weariness. Hereafter I'll +try to keep from such extravagant, nerve-straining places. Yet such a +day is well worth venturing for. My first view of the High Sierra, first +view looking down into Yosemite, the death song of Yosemite Creek, and +its flight over the vast cliff, each one of these is of itself enough +for a great life-long landscape fortune--a most memorable day of +days--enjoyment enough to kill if that were possible. + +_July 16._ My enjoyments yesterday afternoon, especially at the head of +the fall, were too great for good sleep. Kept starting up last night in +a nervous tremor, half awake, fancying that the foundation of the +mountain we were camped on had given way and was falling into Yosemite +Valley. In vain I roused myself to make a new beginning for sound sleep. +The nerve strain had been too great, and again and again I dreamed I was +rushing through the air above a glorious avalanche of water and rocks. +One time, springing to my feet, I said, "This time it is real--all must +die, and where could mountaineer find a more glorious death!" + +Left camp soon after sunrise for an all-day ramble eastward. Crossed the +head of Indian Basin, forested with _Abies magnifica_, underbrush mostly +_Ceanothus cordulatus_ and manzanita, a mixture not easily trampled over +or penetrated, for the ceanothus is thorny and grows in dense +snow-pressed masses, and the manzanita has exceedingly crooked, stubborn +branches. From the head of the cañon continued on past North Dome into +the basin of Dome or Porcupine Creek. Here are many fine meadows +imbedded in the woods, gay with _Lilium parvum_ and its companions; the +elevation, about eight thousand feet, seems to be best suited for +it--saw specimens that were a foot or two higher than my head. Had more +magnificent views of the upper mountains, and of the great South Dome, +said to be the grandest rock in the world. Well it may be, since it is +of such noble dimensions and sculpture. A wonderfully impressive +monument, its lines exquisite in fineness, and though sublime in size, +is finished like the finest work of art, and seems to be alive. + +_July 17._ A new camp was made to-day in a magnificent silver fir grove +at the head of a small stream that flows into Yosemite by way of Indian +Cañon. Here we intend to stay several weeks,--a fine location from which +to make excursions about the great valley and its fountains. Glorious +days I'll have sketching, pressing plants, studying the wonderful +topography and the wild animals, our happy fellow mortals and neighbors. +But the vast mountains in the distance, shall I ever know them, shall I +be allowed to enter into their midst and dwell with them? + +[Illustration: _The North and South Domes_] + +We were pelted about noon by a short, heavy rainstorm, sublime thunder +reverberating among the mountains and cañons,--some strokes near, +crashing, ringing in the tense crisp air with startling keenness, while +the distant peaks loomed gloriously through the cloud fringes and sheets +of rain. Now the storm is past, and the fresh washed air is full of +the essences of the flower gardens and groves. Winter storms in Yosemite +must be glorious. May I see them! + +Have got my bed made in our new camp,--plushy, sumptuous, and +deliciously fragrant, most of it _magnifica_ fir plumes, of course, with +a variety of sweet flowers in the pillow. Hope to sleep to-night without +tottering nerve-dreams. Watched a deer eating ceanothus leaves and +twigs. + +_July 18._ Slept pretty well; the valley walls did not seem to fall, +though I still fancied myself at the brink, alongside the white, +plunging flood, especially when half asleep. Strange the danger of that +adventure should be more troublesome now that I am in the bosom of the +peaceful woods, a mile or more from the fall, than it was while I was on +the brink of it. + +Bears seem to be common here, judging by their tracks. About noon we had +another rainstorm with keen startling thunder, the metallic, ringing, +clashing, clanging notes gradually fading into low bass rolling and +muttering in the distance. For a few minutes the rain came in a grand +torrent like a waterfall, then hail; some of the hailstones an inch in +diameter, hard, icy, and irregular in form, like those oftentimes seen +in Wisconsin. Carlo watched them with intelligent astonishment as they +came pelting and thrashing through the quivering branches of the trees. +The cloud scenery sublime. Afternoon calm, sunful, and clear, with +delicious freshness and fragrance from the firs and flowers and steaming +ground. + +_July 19._ Watching the daybreak and sunrise. The pale rose and purple +sky changing softly to daffodil yellow and white, sunbeams pouring +through the passes between the peaks and over the Yosemite domes, making +their edges burn; the silver firs in the middle ground catching the glow +on their spiry tops, and our camp grove fills and thrills with the +glorious light. Everything awakening alert and joyful; the birds begin +to stir and innumerable insect people. Deer quietly withdraw into leafy +hiding-places in the chaparral; the dew vanishes, flowers spread their +petals, every pulse beats high, every life cell rejoices, the very rocks +seem to thrill with life. The whole landscape glows like a human face in +a glory of enthusiasm, and the blue sky, pale around the horizon, bends +peacefully down over all like one vast flower. + +About noon, as usual, big bossy cumuli began to grow above the forest, +and the rainstorm pouring from them is the most imposing I have yet +seen. The silvery zigzag lightning lances are longer than usual, and +the thunder gloriously impressive, keen, crashing, intensely +concentrated, speaking with such tremendous energy it would seem that an +entire mountain is being shattered at every stroke, but probably only a +few trees are being shattered, many of which I have seen on my walks +hereabouts strewing the ground. At last the clear ringing strokes are +succeeded by deep low tones that grow gradually fainter as they roll +afar into the recesses of the echoing mountains, where they seem to be +welcomed home. Then another and another peal, or rather crashing, +splintering stroke, follows in quick succession, perchance splitting +some giant pine or fir from top to bottom into long rails and slivers, +and scattering them to all points of the compass. Now comes the rain, +with corresponding extravagant grandeur, covering the ground high and +low with a sheet of flowing water, a transparent film fitted like a skin +upon the rugged anatomy of the landscape, making the rocks glitter and +glow, gathering in the ravines, flooding the streams, and making them +shout and boom in reply to the thunder. + +How interesting to trace the history of a single raindrop! It is not +long, geologically speaking, as we have seen, since the first raindrops +fell on the newborn leafless Sierra landscapes. How different the lot +of these falling now! Happy the showers that fall on so fair a +wilderness,--scarce a single drop can fail to find a beautiful spot,--on +the tops of the peaks, on the shining glacier pavements, on the great +smooth domes, on forests and gardens and brushy moraines, plashing, +glinting, pattering, laving. Some go to the high snowy fountains to +swell their well-saved stores; some into the lakes, washing the mountain +windows, patting their smooth glassy levels, making dimples and bubbles +and spray; some into the waterfalls and cascades, as if eager to join in +their dance and song and beat their foam yet finer; good luck and good +work for the happy mountain raindrops, each one of them a high waterfall +in itself, descending from the cliffs and hollows of the clouds to the +cliffs and hollows of the rocks, out of the sky-thunder into the thunder +of the falling rivers. Some, falling on meadows and bogs, creep silently +out of sight to the grass roots, hiding softly as in a nest, slipping, +oozing hither, thither, seeking and finding their appointed work. Some, +descending through the spires of the woods, sift spray through the +shining needles, whispering peace and good cheer to each one of them. +Some drops with happy aim glint on the sides of crystals,--quartz, +hornblende, garnet, zircon, tourmaline, feldspar,--patter on grains of +gold and heavy way-worn nuggets; some, with blunt plap-plap and low bass +drumming, fall on the broad leaves of veratrum, saxifrage, cypripedium. +Some happy drops fall straight into the cups of flowers, kissing the +lips of lilies. How far they have to go, how many cups to fill, great +and small, cells too small to be seen, cups holding half a drop as well +as lake basins between the hills, each replenished with equal care, +every drop in all the blessed throng a silvery newborn star with lake +and river, garden and grove, valley and mountain, all that the landscape +holds reflected in its crystal depths, God's messenger, angel of love +sent on its way with majesty and pomp and display of power that make +man's greatest shows ridiculous. + +Now the storm is over, the sky is clear, the last rolling thunder-wave +is spent on the peaks, and where are the raindrops now--what has become +of all the shining throng? In winged vapor rising some are already +hastening back to the sky, some have gone into the plants, creeping +through invisible doors into the round rooms of cells, some are locked +in crystals of ice, some in rock crystals, some in porous moraines to +keep their small springs flowing, some have gone journeying on in the +rivers to join the larger raindrop of the ocean. From form to form, +beauty to beauty, ever changing, never resting, all are speeding on with +love's enthusiasm, singing with the stars the eternal song of creation. + +_July 20._ Fine calm morning; air tense and clear; not the slightest +breeze astir; everything shining, the rocks with wet crystals, the +plants with dew, each receiving its portion of irised dewdrops and +sunshine like living creatures getting their breakfast, their dew manna +coming down from the starry sky like swarms of smaller stars. How +wondrous fine are the particles in showers of dew, thousands required +for a single drop, growing in the dark as silently as the grass! What +pains are taken to keep this wilderness in health,--showers of snow, +showers of rain, showers of dew, floods of light, floods of invisible +vapor, clouds, winds, all sorts of weather, interaction of plant on +plant, animal on animal, etc., beyond thought! How fine Nature's +methods! How deeply with beauty is beauty overlaid! the ground covered +with crystals, the crystals with mosses and lichens and low-spreading +grasses and flowers, these with larger plants leaf over leaf with +ever-changing color and form, the broad palms of the firs outspread over +these, the azure dome over all like a bell-flower, and star above star. + +Yonder stands the South Dome, its crown high above our camp, though its +base is four thousand feet below us; a most noble rock, it seems full of +thought, clothed with living light, no sense of dead stone about it, all +spiritualized, neither heavy looking nor light, steadfast in serene +strength like a god. + +Our shepherd is a queer character and hard to place in this wilderness. +His bed is a hollow made in red dry-rot punky dust beside a log which +forms a portion of the south wall of the corral. Here he lies with his +wonderful everlasting clothing on, wrapped in a red blanket, breathing +not only the dust of the decayed wood but also that of the corral, as if +determined to take ammoniacal snuff all night after chewing tobacco all +day. Following the sheep he carries a heavy six-shooter swung from his +belt on one side and his luncheon on the other. The ancient cloth in +which the meat, fresh from the frying-pan, is tied serves as a filter +through which the clear fat and gravy juices drip down on his right hip +and leg in clustering stalactites. This oleaginous formation is soon +broken up, however, and diffused and rubbed evenly into his scanty +apparel, by sitting down, rolling over, crossing his legs while resting +on logs, etc., making shirt and trousers water-tight and shiny. His +trousers, in particular, have become so adhesive with the mixed fat and +resin that pine needles, thin flakes and fibres of bark, hair, mica +scales and minute grains of quartz, hornblende, etc., feathers, seed +wings, moth and butterfly wings, legs and antennæ of innumerable +insects, or even whole insects such as the small beetles, moths and +mosquitoes, with flower petals, pollen dust and indeed bits of all +plants, animals, and minerals of the region adhere to them and are +safely imbedded, so that though far from being a naturalist he collects +fragmentary specimens of everything and becomes richer than he knows. +His specimens are kept passably fresh, too, by the purity of the air and +the resiny bituminous beds into which they are pressed. Man is a +microcosm, at least our shepherd is, or rather his trousers. These +precious overalls are never taken off, and nobody knows how old they +are, though one may guess by their thickness and concentric structure. +Instead of wearing thin they wear thick, and in their stratification +have no small geological significance. + +Besides herding the sheep, Billy is the butcher, while I have agreed to +wash the few iron and tin utensils and make the bread. Then, these small +duties done, by the time the sun is fairly above the mountain-tops I am +beyond the flock, free to rove and revel in the wilderness all the big +immortal days. + +Sketching on the North Dome. It commands views of nearly all the valley +besides a few of the high mountains. I would fain draw everything in +sight--rock, tree, and leaf. But little can I do beyond mere +outlines,--marks with meanings like words, readable only to myself,--yet +I sharpen my pencils and work on as if others might possibly be +benefited. Whether these picture-sheets are to vanish like fallen leaves +or go to friends like letters, matters not much; for little can they +tell to those who have not themselves seen similar wildness, and like a +language have learned it. No pain here, no dull empty hours, no fear of +the past, no fear of the future. These blessed mountains are so +compactly filled with God's beauty, no petty personal hope or experience +has room to be. Drinking this champagne water is pure pleasure, so is +breathing the living air, and every movement of limbs is pleasure, while +the whole body seems to feel beauty when exposed to it as it feels the +camp-fire or sunshine, entering not by the eyes alone, but equally +through all one's flesh like radiant heat, making a passionate ecstatic +pleasure-glow not explainable. One's body then seems homogeneous +throughout, sound as a crystal. Perched like a fly on this Yosemite +dome, I gaze and sketch and bask, oftentimes settling down into dumb +admiration without definite hope of ever learning much, yet with the +longing, unresting effort that lies at the door of hope, humbly +prostrate before the vast display of God's power, and eager to offer +self-denial and renunciation with eternal toil to learn any lesson in +the divine manuscript. + +It is easier to feel than to realize, or in any way explain, Yosemite +grandeur. The magnitudes of the rocks and trees and streams are so +delicately harmonized they are mostly hidden. Sheer precipices three +thousand feet high are fringed with tall trees growing close like grass +on the brow of a lowland hill, and extending along the feet of these +precipices a ribbon of meadow a mile wide and seven or eight long, that +seems like a strip a farmer might mow in less than a day. Waterfalls, +five hundred to one or two thousand feet high, are so subordinated to +the mighty cliffs over which they pour that they seem like wisps of +smoke, gentle as floating clouds, though their voices fill the valley +and make the rocks tremble. The mountains, too, along the eastern sky, +and the domes in front of them, and the succession of smooth rounded +waves between, swelling higher, higher, with dark woods in their +hollows, serene in massive exuberant bulk and beauty, tend yet more to +hide the grandeur of the Yosemite temple and make it appear as a subdued +subordinate feature of the vast harmonious landscape. Thus every attempt +to appreciate any one feature is beaten down by the overwhelming +influence of all the others. And, as if this were not enough, lo! in the +sky arises another mountain range with topography as rugged and +substantial-looking as the one beneath it--snowy peaks and domes and +shadowy Yosemite valleys--another version of the snowy Sierra, a new +creation heralded by a thunder-storm. How fiercely, devoutly wild is +Nature in the midst of her beauty-loving tenderness!--painting lilies, +watering them, caressing them with gentle hand, going from flower to +flower like a gardener while building rock mountains and cloud mountains +full of lightning and rain. Gladly we run for shelter beneath an +overhanging cliff and examine the reassuring ferns and mosses, gentle +love tokens growing in cracks and chinks. Daisies, too, and ivesias, +confiding wild children of light, too small to fear. To these one's +heart goes home, and the voices of the storm become gentle. Now the sun +breaks forth and fragrant steam arises. The birds are out singing on the +edges of the groves. The west is flaming in gold and purple, ready for +the ceremony of the sunset, and back I go to camp with my notes and +pictures, the best of them printed in my mind as dreams. A fruitful day, +without measured beginning or ending. A terrestrial eternity. A gift of +good God. + +Wrote to my mother and a few friends, mountain hints to each. They seem +as near as if within voice-reach or touch. The deeper the solitude the +less the sense of loneliness, and the nearer our friends. Now bread and +tea, fir bed and good-night to Carlo, a look at the sky lilies, and +death sleep until the dawn of another Sierra to-morrow. + +_July 21._ Sketching on the Dome--no rain; clouds at noon about quarter +filled the sky, casting shadows with fine effect on the white mountains +at the heads of the streams, and a soothing cover over the gardens +during the warm hours. + +Saw a common house-fly and a grasshopper and a brown bear. The fly and +grasshopper paid me a merry visit on the top of the Dome, and I paid a +visit to the bear in the middle of a small garden meadow between the +Dome and the camp where he was standing alert among the flowers as if +willing to be seen to advantage. I had not gone more than half a mile +from camp this morning, when Carlo, who was trotting on a few yards +ahead of me, came to a sudden, cautious standstill. Down went tail and +ears, and forward went his knowing nose, while he seemed to be saying, +"Ha, what's this? A bear, I guess." Then a cautious advance of a few +steps, setting his feet down softly like a hunting cat, and questioning +the air as to the scent he had caught until all doubt vanished. Then he +came back to me, looked me in the face, and with his speaking eyes +reported a bear near by; then led on softly, careful, like an +experienced hunter, not to make the slightest noise; and frequently +looking back as if whispering, "Yes, it's a bear; come and I'll show +you." Presently we came to where the sunbeams were streaming through +between the purple shafts of the firs, which showed that we were nearing +an open spot, and here Carlo came behind me, evidently sure that the +bear was very near. So I crept to a low ridge of moraine boulders on the +edge of a narrow garden meadow, and in this meadow I felt pretty sure +the bear must be. I was anxious to get a good look at the sturdy +mountaineer without alarming him; so drawing myself up noiselessly back +of one of the largest of the trees I peered past its bulging buttresses, +exposing only a part of my head, and there stood neighbor Bruin within +a stone's throw, his hips covered by tall grass and flowers, and his +front feet on the trunk of a fir that had fallen out into the meadow, +which raised his head so high that he seemed to be standing erect. He +had not yet seen me, but was looking and listening attentively, showing +that in some way he was aware of our approach. I watched his gestures +and tried to make the most of my opportunity to learn what I could about +him, fearing he would catch sight of me and run away. For I had been +told that this sort of bear, the cinnamon, always ran from his bad +brother man, never showing fight unless wounded or in defense of young. +He made a telling picture standing alert in the sunny forest garden. How +well he played his part, harmonizing in bulk and color and shaggy hair +with the trunks of the trees and lush vegetation, as natural a feature +as any other in the landscape. After examining at leisure, noting the +sharp muzzle thrust inquiringly forward, the long shaggy hair on his +broad chest, the stiff, erect ears nearly buried in hair, and the slow, +heavy way he moved his head, I thought I should like to see his gait in +running, so I made a sudden rush at him, shouting and swinging my hat to +frighten him, expecting to see him make haste to get away. But to my +dismay he did not run or show any sign of running. On the contrary, he +stood his ground ready to fight and defend himself, lowered his head, +thrust it forward, and looked sharply and fiercely at me. Then I +suddenly began to fear that upon me would fall the work of running; but +I was afraid to run, and therefore, like the bear, held my ground. We +stood staring at each other in solemn silence within a dozen yards or +thereabouts, while I fervently hoped that the power of the human eye +over wild beasts would prove as great as it is said to be. How long our +awfully strenuous interview lasted, I don't know; but at length in the +slow fullness of time he pulled his huge paws down off the log, and with +magnificent deliberation turned and walked leisurely up the meadow, +stopping frequently to look back over his shoulder to see whether I was +pursuing him, then moving on again, evidently neither fearing me very +much nor trusting me. He was probably about five hundred pounds in +weight, a broad, rusty bundle of ungovernable wildness, a happy fellow +whose lines have fallen in pleasant places. The flowery glade in which I +saw him so well, framed like a picture, is one of the best of all I have +yet discovered, a conservatory of Nature's precious plant people. Tall +lilies were swinging their bells over that bear's back, with geraniums, +larkspurs, columbines, and daisies brushing against his sides. A place +for angels, one would say, instead of bears. + +In the great cañons Bruin reigns supreme. Happy fellow, whom no famine +can reach while one of his thousand kinds of food is spared him. His +bread is sure at all seasons, ranged on the mountain shelves like stores +in a pantry. From one to the other, up or down he climbs, tasting and +enjoying each in turn in different climates, as if he had journeyed +thousands of miles to other countries north or south to enjoy their +varied productions. I should like to know my hairy brothers +better--though after this particular Yosemite bear, my very neighbor, +had sauntered out of sight this morning, I reluctantly went back to camp +for the Don's rifle to shoot him, if necessary, in defense of the flock. +Fortunately I couldn't find him, and after tracking him a mile or two +towards Mount Hoffman I bade him Godspeed and gladly returned to my work +on the Yosemite Dome. + +The house-fly also seemed at home and buzzed about me as I sat +sketching, and enjoying my bear interview now it was over. I wonder what +draws house-flies so far up the mountains, heavy gross feeders as they +are, sensitive to cold, and fond of domestic ease. How have they been +distributed from continent to continent, across seas and deserts and +mountain chains, usually so influential in determining boundaries of +species both of plants and animals. Beetles and butterflies are +sometimes restricted to small areas. Each mountain in a range, and even +the different zones of a mountain, may have its own peculiar species. +But the house-fly seems to be everywhere. I wonder if any island in +mid-ocean is flyless. The bluebottle is abundant in these Yosemite +woods, ever ready with his marvelous store of eggs to make all dead +flesh fly. Bumblebees are here, and are well fed on boundless stores of +nectar and pollen. The honeybee, though abundant in the foothills, has +not yet got so high. It is only a few years since the first swarm was +brought to California. + +[Illustration: TRACK OF SINGING DANCING GRASSHOPPER IN THE AIR OVER +NORTH DOME] + +A queer fellow and a jolly fellow is the grasshopper. Up the mountains +he comes on excursions, how high I don't know, but at least as far and +high as Yosemite tourists. I was much interested with the hearty +enjoyment of the one that danced and sang for me on the Dome this +afternoon. He seemed brimful of glad, hilarious energy, manifested by +springing into the air to a height of twenty or thirty feet, then +diving and springing up again and making a sharp musical rattle just as +the lowest point in the descent was reached. Up and down a dozen times +or so he danced and sang, then alighted to rest, then up and at it +again. The curves he described in the air in diving and rattling +resembled those made by cords hanging loosely and attached at the same +height at the ends, the loops nearly covering each other. Braver, +heartier, keener, care-free enjoyment of life I have never seen or heard +in any creature, great or small. The life of this comic redlegs, the +mountain's merriest child, seems to be made up of pure, condensed +gayety. The Douglas squirrel is the only living creature that I can +compare him with in exuberant, rollicking, irrepressible jollity. +Wonderful that these sublime mountains are so loudly cheered and +brightened by a creature so queer. Nature in him seems to be snapping +her fingers in the face of all earthly dejection and melancholy with a +boyish hip-hip-hurrah. How the sound is made I do not understand. When +he was on the ground he made not the slightest noise, nor when he was +simply flying from place to place, but only when diving in curves, the +motion seeming to be required for the sound; for the more vigorous the +diving the more energetic the corresponding outbursts of jolly +rattling. I tried to observe him closely while he was resting in the +intervals of his performances; but he would not allow a near approach, +always getting his jumping legs ready to spring for immediate flight, +and keeping his eyes on me. A fine sermon the little fellow danced for +me on the Dome, a likely place to look for sermons in stones, but not +for grasshopper sermons. A large and imposing pulpit for so small a +preacher. No danger of weakness in the knees of the world while Nature +can spring such a rattle as this. Even the bear did not express for me +the mountain's wild health and strength and happiness so tellingly as +did this comical little hopper. No cloud of care in his day, no winter +of discontent in sight. To him every day is a holiday; and when at +length his sun sets, I fancy he will cuddle down on the forest floor and +die like the leaves and flowers, and like them leave no unsightly +remains calling for burial. + +Sundown, and I must to camp. Good-night, friends three,--brown bear, +rugged boulder of energy in groves and gardens fair as Eden; restless, +fussy fly with gauzy wings stirring the air around all the world; and +grasshopper, crisp, electric spark of joy enlivening the massy sublimity +of the mountains like the laugh of a child. Thank you, thank you all +three for your quickening company. Heaven guide every wing and leg. +Good-night friends three, good-night. + +[Illustration: MT. CLARK TOP OF S. DOME MT. STARR KING + +ABIES MAGNIFICA] + +_July 22._ A fine specimen of the black-tailed deer went bounding past +camp this morning. A buck with wide spread of antlers, showing admirable +vigor and grace. Wonderful the beauty, strength, and graceful movements +of animals in wildernesses, cared for by Nature only, when our +experience with domestic animals would lead us to fear that all the +so-called neglected wild beasts would degenerate. Yet the upshot of +Nature's method of breeding and teaching seems to lead to excellence of +every sort. Deer, like all wild animals, are as clean as plants. The +beauties of their gestures and attitudes, alert or in repose, surprise +yet more than their bounding exuberant strength. Every movement and +posture is graceful, the very poetry of manners and motion. Mother +Nature is too often spoken of as in reality no mother at all. Yet how +wisely, sternly, tenderly she loves and looks after her children in all +sorts of weather and wildernesses. The more I see of deer the more I +admire them as mountaineers. They make their way into the heart of the +roughest solitudes with smooth reserve of strength, through dense belts +of brush and forest encumbered with fallen trees and boulder piles, +across cañons, roaring streams, and snow-fields, ever showing forth +beauty and courage. Over nearly all the continent the deer find homes. +In the Florida savannas and hummocks, in the Canada woods, in the far +north, roaming over mossy tundras, swimming lakes and rivers and arms of +the sea from island to island washed with waves, or climbing rocky +mountains, everywhere healthy and able, adding beauty to every +landscape,--a truly admirable creature and great credit to Nature. + +Have been sketching a silver fir that stands on a granite ridge a few +hundred yards to the eastward of camp--a fine tree with a particular +snow-storm story to tell. It is about one hundred feet high, growing on +bare rock, thrusting its roots into a weathered joint less than an inch +wide, and bulging out to form a base to bear its weight. The storm came +from the north while it was young and broke it down nearly to the +ground, as is shown by the old, dead, weather-beaten top leaning out +from the living trunk built up from a new shoot below the break. The +annual rings of the trunk that have overgrown the dead sapling tell the +year of the storm. Wonderful that a side branch forming a portion of one +of the level collars that encircle the trunk of this species (_Abies +magnifica_) should bend upward, grow erect, and take the place of the +lost axis to form a new tree. + +Many others, pines as well as firs, bear testimony to the crushing +severity of this particular storm. Trees, some of them fifty to +seventy-five feet high, were bent to the ground and buried like grass, +whole groves vanishing as if the forest had been cleared away, leaving +not a branch or needle visible until the spring thaw. Then the more +elastic undamaged saplings rose again, aided by the wind, some reaching +a nearly erect attitude, others remaining more or less bent, while those +with broken backs endeavored to specialize a side branch below the break +and make a leader of it to form a new axis of development. It is as if a +man, whose back was broken or nearly so and who was compelled to go +bent, should find a branch backbone sprouting straight up from below the +break and should gradually develop new arms and shoulders and head, +while the old damaged portion of his body died. + +Grand white cloud mountains and domes created about noon as usual, +ridges and ranges of endless variety, as if Nature dearly loved this +sort of work, doing it again and again nearly every day with infinite +industry, and producing beauty that never palls. A few zigzags of +lightning, five minutes' shower, then a gradual wilting and clearing. + +[Illustration: ILLUSTRATING GROWTH OF NEW PINE FROM BRANCH BELOW THE +BREAK OF AXIS OF SNOW-CRUSHED TREE] + +_July 23._ Another midday cloudland, displaying power and beauty that +one never wearies in beholding, but hopelessly unsketchable and +untellable. What can poor mortals say about clouds? While a description +of their huge glowing domes and ridges, shadowy gulfs and cañons, and +feather-edged ravines is being tried, they vanish, leaving no visible +ruins. Nevertheless, these fleeting sky mountains are as substantial and +significant as the more lasting upheavals of granite beneath them. Both +alike are built up and die, and in God's calendar difference of duration +is nothing. We can only dream about them in wondering, worshiping +admiration, happier than we dare tell even to friends who see farthest +in sympathy, glad to know that not a crystal or vapor particle of them, +hard or soft, is lost; that they sink and vanish only to rise again and +again in higher and higher beauty. As to our own work, duty, influence, +etc., concerning which so much fussy pother is made, it will not fail of +its due effect, though, like a lichen on a stone, we keep silent. + +_July 24._ Clouds at noon occupying about half the sky gave half an hour +of heavy rain to wash one of the cleanest landscapes in the world. How +well it is washed! The sea is hardly less dusty than the ice-burnished +pavements and ridges, domes and cañons, and summit peaks plashed with +snow like waves with foam. How fresh the woods are and calm after the +last films of clouds have been wiped from the sky! A few minutes ago +every tree was excited, bowing to the roaring storm, waving, swirling, +tossing their branches in glorious enthusiasm like worship. But though +to the outer ear these trees are now silent, their songs never cease. +Every hidden cell is throbbing with music and life, every fibre +thrilling like harp strings, while incense is ever flowing from the +balsam bells and leaves. No wonder the hills and groves were God's first +temples, and the more they are cut down and hewn into cathedrals and +churches, the farther off and dimmer seems the Lord himself. The same +may be said of stone temples. Yonder, to the eastward of our camp grove, +stands one of Nature's cathedrals, hewn from the living rock, almost +conventional in form, about two thousand feet high, nobly adorned with +spires and pinnacles, thrilling under floods of sunshine as if alive +like a grove-temple, and well named "Cathedral Peak." Even Shepherd +Billy turns at times to this wonderful mountain building, though +apparently deaf to all stone sermons. Snow that refused to melt in fire +would hardly be more wonderful than unchanging dullness in the rays of +God's beauty. I have been trying to get him to walk to the brink of +Yosemite for a view, offering to watch the sheep for a day, while he +should enjoy what tourists come from all over the world to see. But +though within a mile of the famous valley, he will not go to it even out +of mere curiosity. "What," says he, "is Yosemite but a cañon--a lot of +rocks--a hole in the ground--a place dangerous about falling into--a +d----d good place to keep away from." "But think of the waterfalls, +Billy--just think of that big stream we crossed the other day, falling +half a mile through the air--think of that, and the sound it makes. You +can hear it now like the roar of the sea." Thus I pressed Yosemite upon +him like a missionary offering the gospel, but he would have none of it. +"I should be afraid to look over so high a wall," he said. "It would +make my head swim. There is nothing worth seeing anywhere, only rocks, +and I see plenty of them here. Tourists that spend their money to see +rocks and falls are fools, that's all. You can't humbug me. I've been in +this country too long for that." Such souls, I suppose, are asleep, or +smothered and befogged beneath mean pleasures and cares. + +_July 25._ Another cloudland. Some clouds have an over-ripe decaying +look, watery and bedraggled and drawn out into wind-torn shreds and +patches, giving the sky a littered appearance; not so these Sierra +summer midday clouds. All are beautiful with smooth definite outlines +and curves like those of glacier-polished domes. They begin to grow +about eleven o'clock, and seem so wonderfully near and clear from this +high camp one is tempted to try to climb them and trace the streams that +pour like cataracts from their shadowy fountains. The rain to which they +give birth is often very heavy, a sort of waterfall as imposing as if +pouring from rock mountains. Never in all my travels have I found +anything more truly novel and interesting than these midday mountains of +the sky, their fine tones of color, majestic visible growth, and +ever-changing scenery and general effects, though mostly as well let +alone as far as description goes. I oftentimes think of Shelley's cloud +poem, "I sift the snow on the mountains below." + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +MOUNT HOFFMAN AND LAKE TENAYA + + +_July 26._ Ramble to the summit of Mount Hoffman, eleven thousand feet +high, the highest point in life's journey my feet have yet touched. And +what glorious landscapes are about me, new plants, new animals, new +crystals, and multitudes of new mountains far higher than Hoffman, +towering in glorious array along the axis of the range, serene, +majestic, snow-laden, sun-drenched, vast domes and ridges shining below +them, forests, lakes, and meadows in the hollows, the pure blue +bell-flower sky brooding them all,--a glory day of admission into a new +realm of wonders as if Nature had wooingly whispered, "Come higher." +What questions I asked, and how little I know of all the vast show, and +how eagerly, tremulously hopeful of some day knowing more, learning the +meaning of these divine symbols crowded together on this wondrous page. + +Mount Hoffman is the highest part of a ridge or spur about fourteen +miles from the axis of the main range, perhaps a remnant brought into +relief and isolated by unequal denudation. The southern slopes shed +their waters into Yosemite Valley by Tenaya and Dome Creeks, the +northern in part into the Tuolumne River, but mostly into the Merced by +Yosemite Creek. The rock is mostly granite, with some small piles and +crests rising here and there in picturesque pillared and castellated +remnants of red metamorphic slates. Both the granite and slates are +divided by joints, making them separable into blocks like the stones of +artificial masonry, suggesting the Scripture "He hath builded the +mountains." Great banks of snow and ice are piled in hollows on the cool +precipitous north side forming the highest perennial sources of Yosemite +Creek. The southern slopes are much more gradual and accessible. Narrow +slot-like gorges extend across the summit at right angles, which look +like lanes, formed evidently by the erosion of less resisting beds. They +are usually called "devil's slides," though they lie far above the +region usually haunted by the devil; for though we read that he once +climbed an exceeding high mountain, he cannot be much of a mountaineer, +for his tracks are seldom seen above the timber-line. + +[Illustration: APPROACH OF DOME CREEK TO YOSEMITE] + +The broad gray summit is barren and desolate-looking in general views, +wasted by ages of gnawing storms; but looking at the surface in detail, +one finds it covered by thousands and millions of charming plants +with leaves and flowers so small they form no mass of color visible at a +distance of a few hundred yards. Beds of azure daisies smile confidingly +in moist hollows, and along the banks of small rills, with several +species of eriogonum, silky-leaved ivesia, pentstemon, orthocarpus, and +patches of _Primula suffruticosa_, a beautiful shrubby species. Here +also I found bryanthus, a charming heathwort covered with purple flowers +and dark green foliage like heather, and three trees new to me--a +hemlock and two pines. The hemlock (_Tsuga Mertensiana_) is the most +beautiful conifer I have ever seen; the branches and also the main axis +droop in a singularly graceful way, and the dense foliage covers the +delicate, sensitive, swaying branchlets all around. It is now in full +bloom, and the flowers, together with thousands of last season's cones +still clinging to the drooping sprays, display wonderful wealth of +color, brown and purple and blue. Gladly I climbed the first tree I +found to revel in the midst of it. How the touch of the flowers makes +one's flesh tingle! The pistillate are dark, rich purple, and almost +translucent, the staminate blue,--a vivid, pure tone of blue like the +mountain sky,--the most uncommonly beautiful of all the Sierra tree +flowers I have seen. How wonderful that, with all its delicate feminine +grace and beauty of form and dress and behavior, this lovely tree up +here, exposed to the wildest blasts, has already endured the storms of +centuries of winters! + +The two pines also are brave storm-enduring trees, the mountain pine +(_Pinus monticola_) and the dwarf pine (_Pinus albicaulis_). The +mountain pine is closely related to the sugar pine, though the cones are +only about four to six inches long. The largest trees are from five to +six feet in diameter at four feet above the ground, the bark rich brown. +Only a few storm-beaten adventurers approach the summit of the mountain. +The dwarf or white-bark pine is the species that forms the timber-line, +where it is so completely dwarfed that one may walk over the top of a +bed of it as over snow-pressed chaparral. + +How boundless the day seems as we revel in these storm-beaten sky +gardens amid so vast a congregation of onlooking mountains! Strange and +admirable it is that the more savage and chilly and storm-chafed the +mountains, the finer the glow on their faces and the finer the plants +they bear. The myriads of flowers tingeing the mountain-top do not seem +to have grown out of the dry, rough gravel of disintegration, but rather +they appear as visitors, a cloud of witnesses to Nature's love in what +we in our timid ignorance and unbelief call howling desert. The surface +of the ground, so dull and forbidding at first sight, besides being rich +in plants, shines and sparkles with crystals: mica, hornblende, +feldspar, quartz, tourmaline. The radiance in some places is so great as +to be fairly dazzling, keen lance rays of every color flashing, +sparkling in glorious abundance, joining the plants in their fine, brave +beauty-work--every crystal, every flower a window opening into heaven, a +mirror reflecting the Creator. + +From garden to garden, ridge to ridge, I drifted enchanted, now on my +knees gazing into the face of a daisy, now climbing again and again +among the purple and azure flowers of the hemlocks, now down into the +treasuries of the snow, or gazing afar over domes and peaks, lakes and +woods, and the billowy glaciated fields of the upper Tuolumne, and +trying to sketch them. In the midst of such beauty, pierced with its +rays, one's body is all one tingling palate. Who wouldn't be a +mountaineer! Up here all the world's prizes seem nothing. + +The largest of the many glacier lakes in sight, and the one with the +finest shore scenery, is Tenaya, about a mile long, with an imposing +mountain dipping its feet into it on the south side, Cathedral Peak a +few miles above its head, many smooth swelling rock-waves and domes on +the north, and in the distance southward a multitude of snowy peaks, the +fountain-heads of rivers. Lake Hoffman lies shimmering beneath my feet, +mountain pines around its shining rim. To the northward the picturesque +basin of Yosemite Creek glitters with lakelets and pools; but the eye is +soon drawn away from these bright mirror wells, however attractive, to +revel in the glorious congregation of peaks on the axis of the range in +their robes of snow and light. + +[Illustration: Cathedral Peak] + +Carlo caught an unfortunate woodchuck when it was running from a grassy +spot to its boulder-pile home--one of the hardiest of the mountain +animals. I tried hard to save him, but in vain. After telling Carlo that +he must be careful not to kill anything, I caught sight, for the first +time, of the curious pika, or little chief hare, that cuts large +quantities of lupines and other plants and lays them out to dry in the +sun for hay, which it stores in underground barns to last through the +long, snowy winter. Coming upon these plants freshly cut and lying in +handfuls here and there on the rocks has a startling effect of busy life +on the lonely mountain-top. These little haymakers, endowed with +brain stuff something like our own,--God up here looking after +them,--what lessons they teach, how they widen our sympathy! + +An eagle soaring above a sheer cliff, where I suppose its nest is, makes +another striking show of life, and helps to bring to mind the other +people of the so-called solitude--deer in the forest caring for their +young; the strong, well-clad, well-fed bears; the lively throng of +squirrels; the blessed birds, great and small, stirring and sweetening +the groves; and the clouds of happy insects filling the sky with joyous +hum as part and parcel of the down-pouring sunshine. All these come to +mind, as well as the plant people, and the glad streams singing their +way to the sea. But most impressive of all is the vast glowing +countenance of the wilderness in awful, infinite repose. + +Toward sunset, enjoyed a fine run to camp, down the long south slopes, +across ridges and ravines, gardens and avalanche gaps, through the firs +and chaparral, enjoying wild excitement and excess of strength, and so +ends a day that will never end. + +_July 27._ Up and away to Lake Tenaya,--another big day, enough for a +lifetime. The rocks, the air, everything speaking with audible voice or +silent; joyful, wonderful, enchanting, banishing weariness and sense of +time. No longing for anything now or hereafter as we go home into the +mountain's heart. The level sunbeams are touching the fir-tops, every +leaf shining with dew. Am holding an easterly course, the deep cañon of +Tenaya Creek on the right hand, Mount Hoffman on the left, and the lake +straight ahead about ten miles distant, the summit of Mount Hoffman +about three thousand feet above me, Tenaya Creek four thousand feet +below and separated from the shallow, irregular valley, along which most +of the way lies, by smooth domes and wave-ridges. Many mossy emerald +bogs, meadows, and gardens in rocky hollows to wade and saunter +through--and what fine plants they give me, what joyful streams I have +to cross, and how many views are displayed of the Hoffman and Cathedral +Peak masonry, and what a wondrous breadth of shining granite pavement to +walk over for the first time about the shores of the lake! On I +sauntered in freedom complete; body without weight as far as I was +aware; now wading through starry parnassia bogs, now through gardens +shoulder deep in larkspur and lilies, grasses and rushes, shaking off +showers of dew; crossing piles of crystalline moraine boulders, bright +mirror pavements, and cool, cheery streams going to Yosemite; crossing +bryanthus carpets and the scoured pathways of avalanches, and thickets +of snow-pressed ceanothus; then down a broad, majestic stairway into the +ice-sculptured lake-basin. + +The snow on the high mountains is melting fast, and the streams are +singing bank-full, swaying softly through the level meadows and bogs, +quivering with sun-spangles, swirling in pot-holes, resting in deep +pools, leaping, shouting in wild, exulting energy over rough boulder +dams, joyful, beautiful in all their forms. No Sierra landscape that I +have seen holds anything truly dead or dull, or any trace of what in +manufactories is called rubbish or waste; everything is perfectly clean +and pure and full of divine lessons. This quick, inevitable interest +attaching to everything seems marvelous until the hand of God becomes +visible; then it seems reasonable that what interests Him may well +interest us. When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it +hitched to everything else in the universe. One fancies a heart like our +own must be beating in every crystal and cell, and we feel like stopping +to speak to the plants and animals as friendly fellow mountaineers. +Nature as a poet, an enthusiastic workingman, becomes more and more +visible the farther and higher we go; for the mountains are +fountains--beginning places, however related to sources beyond mortal +ken. + +I found three kinds of meadows: (1) Those contained in basins not yet +filled with earth enough to make a dry surface. They are planted with +several species of carex, and have their margins diversified with robust +flowering plants such as veratrum, larkspur, lupine, etc. (2) Those +contained in the same sort of basins, once lakes like the first, but so +situated in relation to the streams that flow through them and beds of +transportable sand, gravel, etc., that they are now high and dry and +well drained. This dry condition and corresponding difference in their +vegetation may be caused by no superiority of position, or power of +transporting filling material in the streams that belong to them, but +simply by the basin being shallow and therefore sooner filled. They are +planted with grasses, mostly fine, silky, and rather short-leaved, +_Calamagrostis_ and _Agrostis_ being the principal genera. They form +delightfully smooth, level sods in which one finds two or three species +of gentian and as many of purple and yellow orthocarpus, violet, +vaccinium, kalmia, bryanthus, and lonicera. (3) Meadows hanging on ridge +and mountain slopes, not in basins at all, but made and held in place +by masses of boulders and fallen trees, which, forming dams one above +another in close succession on small, outspread, channelless streams, +have collected soil enough for the growth of grasses, carices, and many +flowering plants, and being kept well watered, without being subject to +currents sufficiently strong to carry them away, a hanging or sloping +meadow is the result. Their surfaces are seldom so smooth as the others, +being roughened more or less by the projecting tops of the dam rocks or +logs; but at a little distance this roughness is not noticed, and the +effect is very striking--bright green, fluent, down-sweeping flowery +ribbons on gray slopes. The broad shallow streams these meadows belong +to are mostly derived from banks of snow and because the soil is well +drained in some places, while in others the dam rocks are packed close +and caulked with bits of wood and leaves, making boggy patches; the +vegetation, of course, is correspondingly varied. I saw patches of +willow, bryanthus, and a fine show of lilies on some of them, not +forming a margin, but scattered about among the carex and grass. Most of +these meadows are now in their prime. How wonderful must be the temper +of the elastic leaves of grasses and sedges to make curves so perfect +and fine. Tempered a little harder, they would stand erect, stiff and +bristly, like strips of metal; a little softer, and every leaf would lie +flat. And what fine painting and tinting there is on the glumes and +pales, stamens and feathery pistils. Butterflies colored like the +flowers waver above them in wonderful profusion, and many other +beautiful winged people, numbered and known and loved only by the Lord, +are waltzing together high over head, seemingly in pure play and +hilarious enjoyment of their little sparks of life. How wonderful they +are! How do they get a living, and endure the weather? How are their +little bodies, with muscles, nerves, organs, kept warm and jolly in such +admirable exuberant health? Regarded only as mechanical inventions, how +wonderful they are! Compared with these, Godlike man's greatest machines +are as nothing. + +Most of the sandy gardens on moraines are in prime beauty like the +meadows, though some on the north sides of rocks and beneath groves of +sapling pines have not yet bloomed. On sunny sheets of crystal soil +along the slopes of the Hoffman Mountains, I saw extensive patches of +ivesia and purple gilia with scarce a green leaf, making fine clouds of +color. Ribes bushes, vaccinium, and kalmia, now in flower, make +beautiful rugs and borders along the banks of the streams. Shaggy beds +of dwarf oak (_Quercus chrysolepis_, var. _vaccinifolia_) over which one +may walk are common on rocky moraines, yet this is the same species as +the large live oak seen near Brown's Flat. The most beautiful of the +shrubs is the purple-flowered bryanthus, here making glorious carpets at +an elevation of nine thousand feet. + +The principal tree for the first mile or two from camp is the +magnificent silver fir, which reaches perfection here both in size and +form of individual trees, and in the mode of grouping in groves with +open spaces between. So trim and tasteful are these silvery, spiry +groves one would fancy they must have been placed in position by some +master landscape gardener, their regularity seeming almost conventional. +But Nature is the only gardener able to do work so fine. A few noble +specimens two hundred feet high occupy central positions in the groups +with younger trees around them; and outside of these another circle of +yet smaller ones, the whole arranged like tastefully symmetrical +bouquets, every tree fitting nicely the place assigned to it as if made +especially for it; small roses and eriogonums are usually found blooming +on the open spaces about the groves, forming charming pleasure grounds. +Higher, the firs gradually become smaller and less perfect, many +showing double summits, indicating storm stress. Still, where good +moraine soil is found, even on the rim of the lake-basin, specimens one +hundred and fifty feet in height and five feet in diameter occur nearly +nine thousand feet above the sea. The saplings, I find, are mostly bent +with the crushing weight of the winter snow, which at this elevation +must be at least eight or ten feet deep, judging by marks on the trees; +and this depth of compacted snow is heavy enough to bend and bury young +trees twenty or thirty feet in height and hold them down for four or +five months. Some are broken; the others spring up when the snow melts +and at length attain a size that enables them to withstand the snow +pressure. Yet even in trees five feet thick the traces of this early +discipline are still plainly to be seen in their curved insteps, and +frequently in old dried saplings protruding from the trunk, partially +overgrown by the new axis developed from a branch below the break. Yet +through all this stress the forest is maintained in marvelous beauty. + +Beyond the silver firs I find the two-leaved pine (_Pinus contorta_, +var. _Murrayana_) forms the bulk of the forest up to an elevation of ten +thousand feet or more--the highest timber-belt of the Sierra. I saw a +specimen nearly five feet in diameter growing on deep, well-watered +soil at an elevation of about nine thousand feet. The form of this +species varies very much with position, exposure, soil, etc. On +stream-banks, where it is closely planted, it is very slender; some +specimens seventy-five feet high do not exceed five inches in diameter +at the ground, but the ordinary form, as far as I have seen, is well +proportioned. The average diameter when full grown at this elevation is +about twelve or fourteen inches, height forty or fifty feet, the +straggling branches bent up at the end, the bark thin and bedraggled +with amber-colored resin. The pistillate flowers form little crimson +rosettes a fourth of an inch in diameter on the ends of the branchlets, +mostly hidden in the leaf-tassels; the staminate are about three eighths +of an inch in diameter, sulphur-yellow, in showy clusters, giving a +remarkably rich effect--a brave, hardy mountaineer pine, growing +cheerily on rough beds of avalanche boulders and joints of rock +pavements, as well as in fertile hollows, standing up to the waist in +snow every winter for centuries, facing a thousand storms and blooming +every year in colors as bright as those worn by the sun-drenched trees +of the tropics. + +A still hardier mountaineer is the Sierra juniper (_Juniperus +occidentalis_), growing mostly on domes and ridges and glacier +pavements. A thickset, sturdy, picturesque highlander, seemingly content +to live for more than a score of centuries on sunshine and snow; a truly +wonderful fellow, dogged endurance expressed in every feature, lasting +about as long as the granite he stands on. Some are nearly as broad as +high. I saw one on the shore of the lake nearly ten feet in diameter, +and many six to eight feet. The bark, cinnamon-colored, flakes off in +long ribbon-like strips with a satiny luster. Surely the most enduring +of all tree mountaineers, it never seems to die a natural death, or even +to fall after it has been killed. If protected from accidents, it would +perhaps be immortal. I saw some that had withstood an avalanche from +snowy Mount Hoffman cheerily putting out new branches, as if repeating, +like Grip, "Never say die." Some were simply standing on the pavement +where no fissure more than half an inch wide offered a hold for its +roots. The common height for these rock-dwellers is from ten to twenty +feet; most of the old ones have broken tops, and are mere stumps, with a +few tufted branches, forming picturesque brown pillars on bare +pavements, with plenty of elbow-room and a clear view in every +direction. On good moraine soil it reaches a height of from forty to +sixty feet, with dense gray foliage. The rings of the trunk are very +thin, eighty to an inch of diameter in some specimens I examined. Those +ten feet in diameter must be very old--thousands of years. Wish I could +live, like these junipers, on sunshine and snow, and stand beside them +on the shore of Lake Tenaya for a thousand years. How much I should see, +and how delightful it would be! Everything in the mountains would find +me and come to me, and everything from the heavens like light. + +[Illustration: JUNIPERS IN TENAYA CAÑON] + +The lake was named for one of the chiefs of the Yosemite tribe. Old +Tenaya is said to have been a good Indian to his tribe. When a company +of soldiers followed his band into Yosemite to punish them for +cattle-stealing and other crimes, they fled to this lake by a trail that +leads out of the upper end of the valley, early in the spring, while the +snow was still deep; but being pursued, they lost heart and surrendered. +A fine monument the old man has in this bright lake, and likely to last +a long time, though lakes die as well as Indians, being gradually filled +with detritus carried in by the feeding streams, and to some extent also +by snow avalanches and rain and wind. A considerable portion of the +Tenaya basin is already changed into a forested flat and meadow at the +upper end, where the main tributary enters from Cathedral Peak. Two +other tributaries come from the Hoffman Range. The outlet flows westward +through Tenaya Cañon to join the Merced River in Yosemite. Scarce a +handful of loose soil is to be seen on the north shore. All is bare, +shining granite, suggesting the Indian name of the lake, Pywiack, +meaning shining rock. The basin seems to have been slowly excavated by +the ancient glaciers, a marvelous work requiring countless thousands of +years. On the south side an imposing mountain rises from the water's +edge to a height of three thousand feet or more, feathered with hemlock +and pine; and huge shining domes on the east, over the tops of which the +grinding, wasting, molding glacier must have swept as the wind does +to-day. + +_July 28._ No cloud mountains, only curly cirrus wisps scarce +perceptible, and the want of thunder to strike the noon hour seems +strange, as if the Sierra clock had stopped. Have been studying the +_magnifica_ fir--measured one near two hundred and forty feet high, the +tallest I have yet seen. This species is the most symmetrical of all +conifers, but though gigantic in size it seldom lives more than four or +five hundred years. Most of the trees die from the attacks of a fungus +at the age of two or three centuries. This dry-rot fungus perhaps enters +the trunk by way of the stumps of limbs broken off by the snow that +loads the broad palmate branches. The younger specimens are marvels of +symmetry, straight and erect as a plumb-line, their branches in regular +level whorls of five mostly, each branch as exact in its divisions as a +fern frond, and thickly covered by the leaves, making a rich plush over +all the tree, excepting only the trunk and a small portion of the main +limbs. The leaves turn upward, especially on the branchlets, and are +stiff and sharp, pointed on all the upper portion of the tree. They +remain on the tree about eight or ten years, and as the growth is rapid +it is not rare to find the leaves still in place on the upper part of +the axis where it is three to four inches in diameter, wide apart of +course, and their spiral arrangement beautifully displayed. The +leaf-scars are conspicuous for twenty years or more, but there is a good +deal of variation in different trees as to the thickness and sharpness +of the leaves. + +After the excursion to Mount Hoffman I had seen a complete cross-section +of the Sierra forest, and I find that _Abies magnifica_ is the most +symmetrical tree of all the noble coniferous company. The cones are +grand affairs, superb in form, size, and color, cylindrical, stand +erect on the upper branches like casks, and are from five to eight +inches in length by three or four in diameter, greenish gray, and +covered with fine down which has a silvery luster in the sunshine, and +their brilliance is augmented by beads of transparent balsam which seems +to have been poured over each cone, bringing to mind the old ceremonies +of anointing with oil. If possible, the inside of the cone is more +beautiful than the outside; the scales, bracts, and seed wings are +tinted with the loveliest rosy purple with a bright lustrous +iridescence; the seeds, three fourths of an inch long, are dark brown. +When the cones are ripe the scales and bracts fall off, setting the +seeds free to fly to their predestined places, while the dead spike-like +axes are left on the branches for many years to mark the positions of +the vanished cones, excepting those cut off when green by the Douglas +squirrel. How he gets his teeth under the broad bases of the sessile +cones, I don't know. Climbing these trees on a sunny day to visit the +growing cones and to gaze over the tops of the forest is one of my best +enjoyments. + +_July 29._ Bright, cool, exhilarating. Clouds about .05. Another +glorious day of rambling, sketching, and universal enjoyment. + +_July 30._ Clouds .20, but the regular shower did not reach us, though +thunder was heard a few miles off striking the noon hour. Ants, flies, +and mosquitoes seem to enjoy this fine climate. A few house-flies have +discovered our camp. The Sierra mosquitoes are courageous and of good +size, some of them measuring nearly an inch from tip of sting to tip of +folded wings. Though less abundant than in most wildernesses, they +occasionally make quite a hum and stir, and pay but little attention to +time or place. They sting anywhere, any time of day, wherever they can +find anything worth while, until they are themselves stung by frost. The +large, jet-black ants are only ticklish and troublesome when one is +lying down under the trees. Noticed a borer drilling a silver fir. +Ovipositor about an inch and a half in length, polished and straight +like a needle. When not in use, it is folded back in a sheath, which +extends straight behind like the legs of a crane in flying. This +drilling, I suppose, is to save nest building, and the after care of +feeding the young. Who would guess that in the brain of a fly so much +knowledge could find lodgment? How do they know that their eggs will +hatch in such holes, or, after they hatch, that the soft, helpless grubs +will find the right sort of nourishment in silver fir sap? This +domestic arrangement calls to mind the curious family of gallflies. +Each species seems to know what kind of plant will respond to the +irritation or stimulus of the puncture it makes and the eggs it lays, in +forming a growth that not only answers for a nest and home but also +provides food for the young. Probably these gallflies make mistakes at +times, like anybody else; but when they do, there is simply a failure of +that particular brood, while enough to perpetuate the species do find +the proper plants and nourishment. Many mistakes of this kind might be +made without being discovered by us. Once a pair of wrens made the +mistake of building a nest in the sleeve of a workman's coat, which was +called for at sundown, much to the consternation and discomfiture of the +birds. Still the marvel remains that any of the children of such small +people as gnats and mosquitoes should escape their own and their +parents' mistakes, as well as the vicissitudes of the weather and hosts +of enemies, and come forth in full vigor and perfection to enjoy the +sunny world. When we think of the small creatures that are visible, we +are led to think of many that are smaller still and lead us on and on +into infinite mystery. + +_July 31._ Another glorious day, the air as delicious to the lungs as +nectar to the tongue; indeed the body seems one palate, and tingles +equally throughout. Cloudiness about .05, but our ordinary shower has +not yet reached us, though I hear thunder in the distance. + +The cheery little chipmunk, so common about Brown's Flat, is common here +also, and perhaps other species. In their light, airy habits they recall +the familiar species of the Eastern States, which we admired in the oak +openings of Wisconsin as they skimmed along the zigzag rail fences. +These Sierra chipmunks are more arboreal and squirrel-like. I first +noticed them on the lower edge of the coniferous belt, where the Sabine +and yellow pines meet,--exceedingly interesting little fellows, full of +odd, funny ways, and without being true squirrels, have most of their +accomplishments without their aggressive quarrelsomeness. I never weary +watching them as they frisk about in the bushes gathering seeds and +berries, like song sparrows poising daintily on slender twigs, and +making even less stir than most birds of the same size. Few of the +Sierra animals interest me more; they are so able, gentle, confiding, +and beautiful, they take one's heart, and get themselves adopted as +darlings. Though weighing hardly more than field mice, they are +laborious collectors of seeds, nuts, and cones, and are therefore well +fed, but never in the least swollen with fat or lazily full. On the +contrary, of their frisky, birdlike liveliness there is no end. They +have a great variety of notes corresponding with their movements, some +sweet and liquid, like water dripping with tinkling sounds into pools. +They seem dearly to love teasing a dog, coming frequently almost within +reach, then frisking away with lively chipping, like sparrows, beating +time to their music with their tails, which at each chip describe half +circles from side to side. Not even the Douglas squirrel is surer-footed +or more fearless. I have seen them running about on sheer precipices of +the Yosemite walls seemingly holding on with as little effort as flies, +and as unconscious of danger, where, if the slightest slip were made, +they would have fallen two or three thousand feet. How fine it would be +could we mountaineers climb these tremendous cliffs with the same sure +grip! The venture I made the other day for a view of the Yosemite Fall, +and which tried my nerves so sorely, this little Tamias would have made +for an ear of grass. + +The woodchuck (_Arctomys monax_) of the bleak mountain-tops is a very +different sort of mountaineer--the most bovine of rodents, a heavy +eater, fat, aldermanic in bulk and fairly bloated, in his high pastures, +like a cow in a clover field. One woodchuck would outweigh a hundred +chipmunks, and yet he is by no means a dull animal. In the midst of what +we regard as storm-beaten desolation he pipes and whistles right +cheerily, and enjoys long life in his skyland homes. His burrow is made +in disintegrated rocks or beneath large boulders. Coming out of his den +in the cold hoarfrost mornings, he takes a sun-bath on some favorite +flat-topped rock, then goes to breakfast in garden hollows, eats grass +and flowers until comfortably swollen, then goes a-visiting to fight and +play. How long a woodchuck lives in this bracing air I don't know, but +some of them are rusty and gray like lichen-covered boulders. + +_August 1._ A grand cloudland and five-minute shower, refreshing the +blessed wilderness, already so fragrant and fresh, steeping the black +meadow mold and dead leaves like tea. + +The waycup, or flicker, so familiar to every boy in the old Middle West +States, is one of the most common of the wood-peckers hereabouts, and +makes one feel at home. I can see no difference in plumage or habits +from the Eastern species, though the climate here is so different,--a +fine, brave, confiding, beautiful bird. The robin, too, is here, with +all his familiar notes and gestures, tripping daintily on open garden +spots and high meadows. Over all America he seems to be at home, moving +from the plains to the mountains and from north to south, back and +forth, up and down, with the march of the seasons and food supply. How +admirable the constitution and temper of this brave singer, keeping in +cheery health over so vast and varied a range! Oftentimes, as I wander +through these solemn woods, awe-stricken and silent, I hear the +reassuring voice of this fellow wanderer ringing out, sweet and clear, +"Fear not! fear not!" + +The mountain quail (_Oreortyx ricta_) I often meet in my walks--a small +brown partridge with a very long, slender, ornamental crest worn +jauntily like a feather in a boy's cap, giving it a very marked +appearance. This species is considerably larger than the valley quail, +so common on the hot foothills. They seldom alight in trees, but love to +wander in flocks of from five or six to twenty through the ceanothus and +manzanita thickets and over open, dry meadows and rocks of the ridges +where the forest is less dense or wanting, uttering a low clucking sound +to enable them to keep together. When disturbed they rise with a strong +birr of wing-beats, and scatter as if exploded to a distance of a +quarter of a mile or so. After the danger is past they call one another +together with a loud piping note--Nature's beautiful mountain chickens. +I have not yet found their nests. The young of this season are already +hatched and away--new broods of happy wanderers half as large as their +parents. I wonder how they live through the long winters, when the +ground is snow-covered ten feet deep. They must go down towards the +lower edge of the forest, like the deer, though I have not heard of them +there. + +The blue, or dusky, grouse is also common here. They like the deepest +and closest fir woods, and when disturbed, burst from the branches of +the trees with a strong, loud whir of wing-beats, and vanish in a +wavering, silent slide, without moving a feather--a stout, beautiful +bird about the size of the prairie chicken of the old west, spending +most of the time in the trees, excepting the breeding season, when it +keeps to the ground. The young are now able to fly. When scattered by +man or dog, they keep still until the danger is supposed to be passed, +then the mother calls them together. The chicks can hear the call a +distance of several hundred yards, though it is not loud. Should the +young be unable to fly, the mother feigns desperate lameness or death to +draw one away, throwing herself at one's feet within two or three yards, +rolling over on her back, kicking and gasping, so as to deceive man or +beast. They are said to stay all the year in the woods hereabouts, +taking shelter in dense tufted branches of fir and yellow pine during +snowstorms, and feeding on the young buds of these trees. Their legs are +feathered down to their toes, and I have never heard of their suffering +in any sort of weather. Able to live on pine and fir buds, they are +forever independent in the matter of food, which troubles so many of us +and controls our movements. Gladly, if I could, I would live forever on +pine buds, however full of turpentine and pitch, for the sake of this +grand independence. Just to think of our sufferings last month merely +for grist-mill flour. Man seems to have more difficulty in gaining food +than any other of the Lord's creatures. For many in towns it is a +consuming, lifelong struggle; for others, the danger of coming to want +is so great, the deadly habit of endless hoarding for the future is +formed, which smothers all real life, and is continued long after every +reasonable need has been over-supplied. + +On Mount Hoffman I saw a curious dove-colored bird that seemed half +woodpecker, half magpie, or crow. It screams something like a crow, but +flies like a woodpecker, and has a long, straight bill, with which I saw +it opening the cones of the mountain and white-barked pines. It seems +to keep to the heights, though no doubt it comes down for shelter during +winter, if not for food. So far as food is concerned, these +bird-mountaineers, I guess, can glean nuts enough, even in winter, from +the different kinds of conifers; for always there are a few that have +been unable to fly out of the cones and remain for hungry winter +gleaners. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +A STRANGE EXPERIENCE + + +_August 2._ Clouds and showers, about the same as yesterday. Sketching +all day on the North Dome until four or five o'clock in the afternoon, +when, as I was busily employed thinking only of the glorious Yosemite +landscape, trying to draw every tree and every line and feature of the +rocks, I was suddenly, and without warning, possessed with the notion +that my friend, Professor J. D. Butler, of the State University of +Wisconsin, was below me in the valley, and I jumped up full of the idea +of meeting him, with almost as much startling excitement as if he had +suddenly touched me to make me look up. Leaving my work without the +slightest deliberation, I ran down the western slope of the Dome and +along the brink of the valley wall, looking for a way to the bottom, +until I came to a side cañon, which, judging by its apparently +continuous growth of trees and bushes, I thought might afford a +practical way into the valley, and immediately began to make the +descent, late as it was, as if drawn irresistibly. But after a little, +common sense stopped me and explained that it would be long after dark +ere I could possibly reach the hotel, that the visitors would be asleep, +that nobody would know me, that I had no money in my pockets, and +moreover was without a coat. I therefore compelled myself to stop, and +finally succeeded in reasoning myself out of the notion of seeking my +friend in the dark, whose presence I only felt in a strange, telepathic +way. I succeeded in dragging myself back through the woods to camp, +never for a moment wavering, however, in my determination to go down to +him next morning. This I think is the most unexplainable notion that +ever struck me. Had some one whispered in my ear while I sat on the +Dome, where I had spent so many days, that Professor Butler was in the +valley, I could not have been more surprised and startled. When I was +leaving the university, he said, "Now, John, I want to hold you in sight +and watch your career. Promise to write me at least once a year." I +received a letter from him in July, at our first camp in the Hollow, +written in May, in which he said that he might possibly visit California +some time this summer, and therefore hoped to meet me. But inasmuch as +he named no meeting-place, and gave no directions as to the course he +would probably follow, and as I should be in the wilderness all summer, +I had not the slightest hope of seeing him, and all thought of the +matter had vanished from my mind until this afternoon, when he seemed to +be wafted bodily almost against my face. Well, to-morrow I shall see; +for, reasonable or unreasonable, I feel I must go. + +_August 3._ Had a wonderful day. Found Professor Butler as the +compass-needle finds the pole. So last evening's telepathy, +transcendental revelation, or whatever else it may be called, was true; +for, strange to say, he had just entered the valley by way of the +Coulterville Trail and was coming up the valley past El Capitan when his +presence struck me. Had he then looked toward the North Dome with a good +glass when it first came in sight, he might have seen me jump up from my +work and run toward him. This seems the one well-defined marvel of my +life of the kind called supernatural; for, absorbed in glad Nature, +spirit-rappings, second sight, ghost stories, etc., have never +interested me since boyhood, seeming comparatively useless and +infinitely less wonderful than Nature's open, harmonious, songful, +sunny, everyday beauty. + +This morning, when I thought of having to appear among tourists at a +hotel, I was troubled because I had no suitable clothes, and at best am +desperately bashful and shy. I was determined to go, however, to see my +old friend after two years among strangers; got on a clean pair of +overalls, a cashmere shirt, and a sort of jacket,--the best my camp +wardrobe afforded,--tied my notebook on my belt, and strode away on my +strange journey, followed by Carlo. I made my way though the gap +discovered last evening, which proved to be Indian Cañon. There was no +trail in it, and the rocks and brush were so rough that Carlo frequently +called me back to help him down precipitous places. Emerging from the +cañon shadows, I found a man making hay on one of the meadows, and asked +him whether Professor Butler was in the valley. "I don't know," he +replied; "but you can easily find out at the hotel. There are but few +visitors in the valley just now. A small party came in yesterday +afternoon, and I heard some one called Professor Butler, or Butterfield, +or some name like that." + +[Illustration: _The Vernal Falls, Yosemite National Park_] + +In front of the gloomy hotel I found a tourist party adjusting their +fishing tackle. They all stared at me in silent wonderment, as if I had +been seen dropping down through the trees from the clouds, mostly, I +suppose, on account of my strange garb. Inquiring for the office, I was +told it was locked, and that the landlord was away, but I might find the +landlady, Mrs. Hutchings, in the parlor. I entered in a sad state of +embarrassment, and after I had waited in the big, empty room and knocked +at several doors the landlady at length appeared, and in reply to my +question said she rather thought Professor Butler _was_ in the valley, +but to make sure, she would bring the register from the office. Among +the names of the last arrivals I soon discovered the Professor's +familiar handwriting, at the sight of which bashfulness vanished; and +having learned that his party had gone up the valley,--probably to the +Vernal and Nevada Falls,--I pushed on in glad pursuit, my heart now sure +of its prey. In less than an hour I reached the head of the Nevada Cañon +at the Vernal Fall, and just outside of the spray discovered a +distinguished-looking gentleman, who, like everybody else I have seen +to-day, regarded me curiously as I approached. When I made bold to +inquire if he knew where Professor Butler was, he seemed yet more +curious to know what could possibly have happened that required a +messenger for the Professor, and instead of answering my question he +asked with military sharpness, "Who wants him?" "I want him," I replied +with equal sharpness. "Why? Do _you_ know him?" "Yes," I said. "Do +_you_ know him?" Astonished that any one in the mountains could possibly +know Professor Butler and find him as soon as he had reached the valley, +he came down to meet the strange mountaineer on equal terms, and +courteously replied, "Yes, I know Professor Butler very well. I am +General Alvord, and we were fellow students in Rutland, Vermont, long +ago, when we were both young." "But where is he now?" I persisted, +cutting short his story. "He has gone beyond the falls with a companion, +to try to climb that big rock, the top of which you see from here." His +guide now volunteered the information that it was the Liberty Cap +Professor Butler and his companion had gone to climb, and that if I +waited at the head of the fall I should be sure to find them on their +way down. I therefore climbed the ladders alongside the Vernal Fall, and +was pushing forward, determined to go to the top of Liberty Cap rock in +my hurry, rather than wait, if I should not meet my friend sooner. So +heart-hungry at times may one be to see a friend in the flesh, however +happily full and care-free one's life may be. I had gone but a short +distance, however, above the brow of the Vernal Fall when I caught sight +of him in the brush and rocks, half erect, groping his way, his sleeves +rolled up, vest open, hat in his hand, evidently very hot and tired. +When he saw me coming he sat down on a boulder to wipe the perspiration +from his brow and neck, and taking me for one of the valley guides, he +inquired the way to the fall ladders. I pointed out the path marked with +little piles of stones, on seeing which he called his companion, saying +that the way was found; but he did not yet recognize me. Then I stood +directly in front of him, looked him in the face, and held out my hand. +He thought I was offering to assist him in rising. "Never mind," he +said. Then I said, "Professor Butler, don't you know me?" "I think not," +he replied; but catching my eye, sudden recognition followed, and +astonishment that I should have found him just when he was lost in the +brush and did not know that I was within hundreds of miles of him. "John +Muir, John Muir, where have you come from?" Then I told him the story of +my feeling his presence when he entered the valley last evening, when he +was four or five miles distant, as I sat sketching on the North Dome. +This, of course, only made him wonder the more. Below the foot of the +Vernal Fall the guide was waiting with his saddle-horse, and I walked +along the trail, chatting all the way back to the hotel, talking of +school days, friends in Madison, of the students, how each had +prospered, etc., ever and anon gazing at the stupendous rocks about us, +now growing indistinct in the gloaming, and again quoting from the +poets--a rare ramble. + +It was late ere we reached the hotel, and General Alvord was waiting the +Professor's arrival for dinner. When I was introduced he seemed yet more +astonished than the Professor at my descent from cloudland and going +straight to my friend without knowing in any ordinary way that he was +even in California. They had come on direct from the East, had not yet +visited any of their friends in the state, and considered themselves +undiscoverable. As we sat at dinner, the General leaned back in his +chair, and looking down the table, thus introduced me to the dozen +guests or so, including the staring fisherman mentioned above: "This +man, you know, came down out of these huge, trackless mountains, you +know, to find his friend Professor Butler here, the very day he arrived; +and how did he know he was here? He just felt him, he says. This is the +queerest case of Scotch farsightedness I ever heard of," etc., etc. +While my friend quoted Shakespeare: "More things in heaven and earth, +Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy," "As the sun, ere he +has risen, sometimes paints his image in the firmament, e'en so the +shadows of events precede the events, and in to-day already walks +to-morrow." + +Had a long conversation, after dinner, over Madison days. The Professor +wants me to promise to go with him, sometime, on a camping trip in the +Hawaiian Islands, while I tried to get him to go back with me to camp in +the high Sierra. But he says, "Not now." He must not leave the General; +and I was surprised to learn they are to leave the valley to-morrow or +next day. I'm glad I'm not great enough to be missed in the busy world. + +_August 4._ It seemed strange to sleep in a paltry hotel chamber after +the spacious magnificence and luxury of the starry sky and silver fir +grove. Bade farewell to my friend and the General. The old soldier was +very kind, and an interesting talker. He told me long stories of the +Florida Seminole war, in which he took part, and invited me to visit him +in Omaha. Calling Carlo, I scrambled home through the Indian Cañon gate, +rejoicing, pitying the poor Professor and General, bound by clocks, +almanacs, orders, duties, etc., and compelled to dwell with lowland care +and dust and din, where Nature is covered and her voice smothered, while +the poor, insignificant wanderer enjoys the freedom and glory of God's +wilderness. + +Apart from the human interest of my visit to-day, I greatly enjoyed +Yosemite, which I had visited only once before, having spent eight days +last spring in rambling amid its rocks and waters. Wherever we go in the +mountains, or indeed in any of God's wild fields, we find more than we +seek. Descending four thousand feet in a few hours, we enter a new +world--climate, plants, sounds, inhabitants, and scenery all new or +changed. Near camp the goldcup oak forms sheets of chaparral, on top of +which we may make our beds. Going down the Indian Cañon we observe this +little bush changing by regular gradations to a large bush, to a small +tree, and then larger, until on the rocky taluses near the bottom of the +valley we find it developed into a broad, wide-spreading, gnarled, +picturesque tree from four to eight feet in diameter, and forty or fifty +feet high. Innumerable are the forms of water displayed. Every gliding +reach, cascade, and fall has characters of its own. Had a good view of +the Vernal and Nevada, two of the main falls of the valley, less than a +mile apart, and offering striking differences in voice, form, color, +etc. The Vernal, four hundred feet high and about seventy-five or +eighty feet wide, drops smoothly over a round-lipped precipice and forms +a superb apron of embroidery, green and white, slightly folded and +fluted, maintaining this form nearly to the bottom, where it is suddenly +veiled in quick-flying billows of spray and mist, in which the afternoon +sunbeams play with ravishing beauty of rainbow colors. The Nevada is +white from its first appearance as it leaps out into the freedom of the +air. At the head it presents a twisted appearance, by an overfolding of +the current from striking on the side of its channel just before the +first free out-bounding leap is made. About two thirds of the way down, +the hurrying throng of comet-shaped masses glance on an inclined part of +the face of the precipice and are beaten into yet whiter foam, greatly +expanded, and sent bounding outward, making an indescribably glorious +show, especially when the afternoon sunshine is pouring into it. In this +fall--one of the most wonderful in the world--the water does not seem to +be under the dominion of ordinary laws, but rather as if it were a +living creature, full of the strength of the mountains and their huge, +wild joy. + +From beneath heavy throbbing blasts of spray the broken river is seen +emerging in ragged boulder-chafed strips. These are speedily gathered +into a roaring torrent, showing that the young river is still gloriously +alive. On it goes, shouting, roaring, exulting in its strength, passes +through a gorge with sublime display of energy, then suddenly expands on +a gently inclined pavement, down which it rushes in thin sheets and +folds of lace-work into a quiet pool,--"Emerald Pool," as it is +called,--a stopping-place, a period separating two grand sentences. +Resting here long enough to part with its foam-bells and gray mixtures +of air, it glides quietly to the verge of the Vernal precipice in a +broad sheet and makes its new display in the Vernal Fall; then more +rapids and rock tossings down the cañon, shaded by live oak, Douglas +spruce, fir, maple, and dogwood. It receives the Illilouette tributary, +and makes a long sweep out into the level, sun-filled valley to join the +other streams which, like itself, have danced and sung their way down +from snowy heights to form the main Merced--the river of Mercy. But of +this there is no end, and life, when one thinks of it, is so short. +Never mind, one day in the midst of these divine glories is well worth +living and toiling and starving for. + +Before parting with Professor Butler he gave me a book, and I gave him +one of my pencil sketches for his little son Henry, who is a favorite +of mine. He used to make many visits to my room when I was a student. +Never shall I forget his patriotic speeches for the Union, mounted on a +tall stool, when he was only six years old. + +It seems strange that visitors to Yosemite should be so little +influenced by its novel grandeur, as if their eyes were bandaged and +their ears stopped. Most of those I saw yesterday were looking down as +if wholly unconscious of anything going on about them, while the sublime +rocks were trembling with the tones of the mighty chanting congregation +of waters gathered from all the mountains round about, making music that +might draw angels out of heaven. Yet respectable-looking, even +wise-looking people were fixing bits of worms on bent pieces of wire to +catch trout. Sport they called it. Should church-goers try to pass the +time fishing in baptismal fonts while dull sermons were being preached, +the so-called sport might not be so bad; but to play in the Yosemite +temple, seeking pleasure in the pain of fishes struggling for their +lives, while God himself is preaching his sublimest water and stone +sermons! + +[Illustration: _The Happy Isles, Yosemite National Park_] + +Now I'm back at the camp-fire, and cannot help thinking about my +recognition of my friend's presence in the valley while he was four or +five miles away, and while I had no means of knowing that he was +not thousands of miles away. It seems supernatural, but only because it +is not understood. Anyhow, it seems silly to make so much of it, while +the natural and common is more truly marvelous and mysterious than the +so-called supernatural. Indeed most of the miracles we hear of are +infinitely less wonderful than the commonest of natural phenomena, when +fairly seen. Perhaps the invisible rays that struck me while I sat at +work on the Dome are something like those which attract and repel people +at first sight, concerning which so much nonsense has been written. The +worst apparent effect of these mysterious odd things is blindness to all +that is divinely common. Hawthorne, I fancy, could weave one of his +weird romances out of this little telepathic episode, the one strange +marvel of my life, probably replacing my good old Professor by an +attractive woman. + +_August 5._ We were awakened this morning before daybreak by the furious +barking of Carlo and Jack and the sound of stampeding sheep. Billy fled +from his punk bed to the fire, and refused to stir into the darkness to +try to gather the scattered flock, or ascertain the nature of the +disturbance. It was a bear attack, as we afterward learned, and I +suppose little was gained by attempting to do anything before daylight. +Nevertheless, being anxious to know what was up, Carlo and I groped our +way through the woods, guided by the rustling sound made by fragments of +the flock, not fearing the bear, for I knew that the runaways would go +from their enemy as far as possible and Carlo's nose was also to be +depended upon. About half a mile east of the corral we overtook twenty +or thirty of the flock and succeeded in driving them back; then turning +to the westward, we traced another band of fugitives and got them back +to the flock. After daybreak I discovered the remains of a sheep +carcass, still warm, showing that Bruin must have been enjoying his +early mutton breakfast while I was seeking the runaways. He had eaten +about half of it. Six dead sheep lay in the corral, evidently smothered +by the crowding and piling up of the flock against the side of the +corral wall when the bear entered. Making a wide circuit of the camp, +Carlo and I discovered a third band of fugitives and drove them back to +camp. We also discovered another dead sheep half eaten, showing there +had been two of the shaggy freebooters at this early breakfast. They +were easily traced. They had each caught a sheep, jumped over the corral +fence with them, carrying them as a cat carries a mouse, laid them at +the foot of fir trees a hundred yards or so back from the corral, and +eaten their fill. After breakfast I set out to seek more of the lost, +and found seventy-five at a considerable distance from camp. In the +afternoon I succeeded, with Carlo's help, in getting them back to the +flock. I don't know whether all are together again or not. I shall make +a big fire this evening and keep watch. + +When I asked Billy why he made his bed against the corral in rotten +wood, when so many better places offered, he replied that he "wished to +be as near the sheep as possible in case bears should attack them." Now +that the bears have come, he has moved his bed to the far side of the +camp, and seems afraid that he may be mistaken for a sheep. + +This has been mostly a sheep day, and of course studies have been +interrupted. Nevertheless, the walk through the gloom of the woods +before the dawn was worth while, and I have learned something about +these noble bears. Their tracks are very telling, and so are their +breakfasts. Scarce a trace of clouds to-day, and of course our ordinary +midday thunder is wanting. + +_August 6._ Enjoyed the grand illumination of the camp grove, last +night, from the fire we made to frighten the bears--compensation for +loss of sleep and sheep. The noble pillars of verdure, vividly aglow, +seemed to shoot into the sky like the flames that lighted them. +Nevertheless, one of the bears paid us another visit, as if more +attracted than repelled by the fire, climbed into the corral, killed a +sheep and made off with it without being seen, while still another was +lost by trampling and suffocation against the side of the corral. Now +that our mutton has been tasted, I suppose it will be difficult to put a +stop to the ravages of these freebooters. + +The Don arrived to-day from the lowlands with provisions and a letter. +On learning the losses he had sustained, he determined to move the flock +at once to the Upper Tuolumne region, saying that the bears would be +sure to visit the camp every night as long as we stayed, and that no +fire or noise we might make would avail to frighten them. No clouds save +a few thin, lustrous touches on the eastern horizon. Thunder heard in +the distance. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE MONO TRAIL + + +_August 7._ Early this morning bade good-bye to the bears and blessed +silver fir camp, and moved slowly eastward along the Mono Trail. At +sundown camped for the night on one of the many small flowery meadows so +greatly enjoyed on my excursion to Lake Tenaya. The dusty, noisy flock +seems outrageously foreign and out of place in these nature gardens, +more so than bears among sheep. The harm they do goes to the heart, but +glorious hope lifts above all the dust and din and bids me look forward +to a good time coming, when money enough will be earned to enable me to +go walking where I like in pure wildness, with what I can carry on my +back, and when the bread-sack is empty, run down to the nearest point on +the bread-line for more. Nor will these run-downs be blanks, for, +whether up or down, every step and jump on these blessed mountains is +full of fine lessons. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF TENAYA LAKE SHOWING CATHEDRAL PEAK] + +[Illustration: ONE OF THE TRIBUTARY FOUNTAINS OF THE TUOLUMNE CAÑON +WATERS, ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE HOFFMAN RANGE] + +_August 8._ Camp at the west end of Lake Tenaya. Arriving early, I took +a walk on the glacier-polished pavements along the north shore, and +climbed the magnificent mountain rock at the east end of the lake, now +shining in the late afternoon light. Almost every yard of its surface +shows the scoring and polishing action of a great glacier that enveloped +it and swept heavily over its summit, though it is about two thousand +feet high above the lake and ten thousand above sea-level. This +majestic, ancient ice-flood came from the eastward, as the scoring and +crushing of the surface shows. Even below the waters of the lake the +rock in some places is still grooved and polished; the lapping of the +waves and their disintegrating action have not as yet obliterated even +the superficial marks of glaciation. In climbing the steepest polished +places I had to take off shoes and stockings. A fine region this for +study of glacial action in mountain-making. I found many charming +plants: arctic daisies, phlox, white spiræa, bryanthus, and +rock-ferns,--pellæa, cheilanthes, allosorus,--fringing weathered seams +all the way up to the summit; and sturdy junipers, grand old gray and +brown monuments, stood bravely erect on fissured spots here and there, +telling storm and avalanche stories of hundreds of winters. The view of +the lake from the top is, I think, the best of all. There is another +rock, more striking in form than this, standing isolated at the head +of the lake, but it is not more than half as high. It is a knob or knot +of burnished granite, perhaps about a thousand feet high, apparently as +flawless and strong in structure as a wave-worn pebble, and probably +owes its existence to the superior resistance it offered to the action +of the overflowing ice-flood. + +Made sketch of the lake, and sauntered back to camp, my iron-shod shoes +clanking on the pavements disturbing the chipmunks and birds. After dark +went out to the shore,--not a breath of air astir, the lake a perfect +mirror reflecting the sky and mountains with their stars and trees and +wonderful sculpture, all their grandeur refined and doubled,--a +marvelously impressive picture, that seemed to belong more to heaven +than earth. + +_August 9._ I went ahead of the flock, and crossed over the divide +between the Merced and Tuolumne Basins. The gap between the east end of +the Hoffman spur and the mass of mountain rocks about Cathedral Peak, +though roughened by ridges and waving folds, seems to be one of the +channels of a broad ancient glacier that came from the mountains on the +summit of the range. In crossing this divide the ice-river made an +ascent of about five hundred feet from the Tuolumne meadows. This entire +region must have been overswept by ice. + +From the top of the divide, and also from the big Tuolumne Meadows, the +wonderful mountain called Cathedral Peak is in sight. From every point +of view it shows marked individuality. It is a majestic temple of one +stone, hewn from the living rock, and adorned with spires and pinnacles +in regular cathedral style. The dwarf pines on the roof look like +mosses. I hope some time to climb to it to say my prayers and hear the +stone sermons. + +The big Tuolumne Meadows are flowery lawns, lying along the south fork +of the Tuolumne River at a height of about eighty-five hundred to nine +thousand feet above the sea, partially separated by forests and bars of +glaciated granite. Here the mountains seem to have been cleared away or +set back, so that wide-open views may be had in every direction. The +upper end of the series lies at the base of Mount Lyell, the lower below +the east end of the Hoffman Range, so the length must be about ten or +twelve miles. They vary in width from a quarter of a mile to perhaps +three quarters, and a good many branch meadows put out along the banks +of the tributary streams. This is the most spacious and delightful high +pleasure-ground I have yet seen. The air is keen and bracing, yet warm +during the day; and though lying high in the sky, the surrounding +mountains are so much higher, one feels protected as if in a grand +hall. Mounts Dana and Gibbs, massive red mountains, perhaps thirteen +thousand feet high or more, bound the view on the east, the Cathedral +and Unicorn Peaks, with many nameless peaks, on the south, the Hoffman +Range on the west, and a number of peaks unnamed, as far as I know, on +the north. One of these last is much like the Cathedral. The grass of +the meadows is mostly fine and silky, with exceedingly slender leaves, +making a close sod, above which the panicles of minute purple flowers +seem to float in airy, misty lightness, while the sod is enriched with +at least three species of gentian and as many or more of orthocarpus, +potentilla, ivesia, solidago, pentstemon, with their gay +colors,--purple, blue, yellow, and red,--all of which I may know better +ere long. A central camp will probably be made in this region, from +which I hope to make long excursions into the surrounding mountains. + +On the return trip I met the flock about three miles east of Lake +Tenaya. Here we camped for the night near a small lake lying on top of +the divide in a clump of the two-leaved pine. We are now about nine +thousand feet above the sea. Small lakes abound in all sorts of +situations,--on ridges, along mountain sides, and in piles of moraine +boulders, most of them mere pools. Only in those cañons of the larger +streams at the foot of declivities, where the down thrust of the +glaciers was heaviest, do we find lakes of considerable size and depth. +How grateful a task it would be to trace them all and study them! How +pure their waters are, clear as crystal in polished stone basins! None +of them, so far as I have seen, have fishes, I suppose on account of +falls making them inaccessible. Yet one would think their eggs might get +into these lakes by some chance or other; on ducks' feet, for example, +or in their mouths, or in their crops, as some plant seeds are +distributed. Nature has so many ways of doing such things. How did the +frogs, found in all the bogs and pools and lakes, however high, manage +to get up these mountains? Surely not by jumping. Such excursions +through miles of dry brush and boulders would be very hard on frogs. +Perhaps their stringy gelatinous spawn is occasionally entangled or +glued on the feet of water birds. Anyhow, they are here and in hearty +health and voice. I like their cheery tronk and crink. They take the +place of songbirds at a pinch. + +_August 10._ Another of those charming exhilarating days that make the +blood dance and excite nerve currents that render one unweariable and +well-nigh immortal. Had another view of the broad ice-ploughed divide, +and gazed again and again at the Sierra temple and the great red +mountains east of the meadows. + +We are camped near the Soda Springs on the north side of the river. A +hard time we had getting the sheep across. They were driven into a +horseshoe bend and fairly crowded off the bank. They seemed willing to +suffer death rather than risk getting wet, though they swim well enough +when they have to. Why sheep should be so unreasonably afraid of water, +I don't know, but they do fear it as soon as they are born and perhaps +before. I once saw a lamb only a few hours old approach a shallow stream +about two feet wide and an inch deep, after it had walked only about a +hundred yards on its life journey. All the flock to which it belonged +had crossed this inch-deep stream, and as the mother and her lamb were +the last to cross, I had a good opportunity to observe them. As soon as +the flock was out of the way, the anxious mother crossed over and called +the youngster. It walked cautiously to the brink, gazed at the water, +bleated piteously, and refused to venture. The patient mother went back +to it again and again to encourage it, but long without avail. Like the +pilgrim on Jordan's stormy bank it feared to launch away. At length, +gathering its trembling inexperienced legs for the mighty effort, +throwing up its head as if it knew all about drowning, and was anxious +to keep its nose above water, it made the tremendous leap, and landed in +the middle of the inch-deep stream. It seemed astonished to find that, +instead of sinking over head and ears, only its toes were wet, gazed at +the shining water a few seconds, and then sprang to the shore safe and +dry through the dreadful adventure. All kinds of wild sheep are mountain +animals, and their descendants' dread of water is not easily accounted +for. + +_August 11._ Fine shining weather, with a ten minutes' noon thunderstorm +and rain. Rambling all day getting acquainted with the region north of +the river. Found a small lake and many charming glacier meadows +embosomed in an extensive forest of the two-leaved pine. The forest is +growing on broad, almost continuous deposits of moraine material, is +remarkably even in its growth, and the trees are much closer together +than in any of the fir or pine woods farther down the range. The +evenness of the growth would seem to indicate that the trees are all of +the same age or nearly so. This regularity has probably been in great +part the result of fire. I saw several large patches and strips of dead +bleached spars, the ground beneath them covered with a young even +growth. Fire can run in these woods, not only because the thin bark of +the trees is dripping with resin, but because the growth is close, and +the comparatively rich soil produces good crops of tall broad-leaved +grasses on which fire can travel, even when the weather is calm. Besides +these fire-killed patches there are a good many fallen uprooted trees +here and there, some with the bark and needles still on, as if they had +lately been blown down in some thunderstorm blast. Saw a large +black-tailed deer, a buck with antlers like the upturned roots of a +fallen pine. + +After a long ramble through the dense encumbered woods I emerged upon a +smooth meadow full of sunshine like a lake of light, about a mile and a +half long, a quarter to half a mile wide, and bounded by tall arrowy +pines. The sod, like that of all the glacier meadows hereabouts, is made +of silky agrostis and calamagrostis chiefly; their panicles of purple +flowers and purple stems, exceedingly light and airy, seem to float +above the green plush of leaves like a thin misty cloud, while the sod +is brightened by several species of gentian, potentilla, ivesia, +orthocarpus, and their corresponding bees and butterflies. All the +glacier meadows are beautiful, but few are so perfect as this one. +Compared with it the most carefully leveled, licked, snipped artificial +lawns of pleasure-grounds are coarse things. I should like to live here +always. It is so calm and withdrawn while open to the universe in full +communion with everything good. To the north of this glorious meadow I +discovered the camp of some Indian hunters. Their fire was still +burning, but they had not yet returned from the chase. + +From meadow to meadow, every one beautiful beyond telling, and from lake +to lake through groves and belts of arrowy trees, I held my way +northward toward Mount Conness, finding telling beauty everywhere, while +the encompassing mountains were calling "Come." Hope I may climb them +all. + +_August 12._ The sky-scenery has changed but little so far with the +change in elevation. Clouds about .05. Glorious pearly cumuli tinted +with purple of ineffable fineness of tone. Moved camp to the side of the +glacier meadow mentioned above. To let sheep trample so divinely fine a +place seems barbarous. Fortunately they prefer the succulent +broad-leaved triticum and other woodland grasses to the silky species of +the meadows, and therefore seldom bite them or set foot on them. + +[Illustration: GLACIER MEADOW, ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE TUOLUMNE 9500 +FEET ABOVE THE SEA] + +The shepherd and the Don cannot agree about methods of herding. Billy +sets his dog Jack on the sheep far too often, so the Don thinks; and +after some dispute to-day, in which the shepherd loudly claimed the +right to dog the sheep as often as he pleased, he started for the +plains. Now I suppose the care of the sheep will fall on me, though Mr. +Delaney promises to do the herding himself for a while, then return to +the lowlands and bring another shepherd, so as to leave me free to rove +as I like. + +Had another rich ramble. Pushed northward beyond the forests to the head +of the general basin, where traces of glacial action are strikingly +clear and interesting. The recesses among the peaks look like quarries, +so raw and fresh are the moraine chips and boulders that strew the +ground in Nature's glacial workshops. + +Soon after my return to camp we received a visit from an Indian, +probably one of the hunters whose camp I had discovered. He came from +Mono, he said, with others of his tribe, to hunt deer. One that he had +killed a short distance from here he was carrying on his back, its legs +tied together in an ornamental bunch on his forehead. Throwing down his +burden, he gazed stolidly for a few minutes in silent Indian fashion, +then cut off eight or ten pounds of venison for us, and begged a "lill" +(little) of everything he saw or could think of--flour, bread, sugar, +tobacco, whiskey, needles, etc. We gave a fair price for the meat in +flour and sugar and added a few needles. A strangely dirty and irregular +life these dark-eyed, dark-haired, half-happy savages lead in this clean +wilderness,--starvation and abundance, deathlike calm, indolence, and +admirable, indefatigable action succeeding each other in stormy rhythm +like winter and summer. Two things they have that civilized toilers +might well envy them--pure air and pure water. These go far to cover and +cure the grossness of their lives. Their food is mostly good berries, +pine nuts, clover, lily bulbs, wild sheep, antelope, deer, grouse, sage +hens, and the larvæ of ants, wasps, bees, and other insects. + +_August 13._ Day all sunshine, dawn and evening purple, noon gold, no +clouds, air motionless. Mr. Delaney arrived with two shepherds, one of +them an Indian. On his way up from the plains he left some provisions at +the Portuguese camp on Porcupine Creek near our old Yosemite camp, and I +set out this morning with one of the pack animals to fetch them. Arrived +at the Porcupine camp at noon, and might have returned to the Tuolumne +late in the evening, but concluded to stay over night with the +Portuguese shepherds at their pressing invitation. They had sad stories +to tell of losses from the Yosemite bears, and were so discouraged they +seemed on the point of leaving the mountains; for the bears came every +night and helped themselves to one or several of the flock in spite of +all their efforts to keep them off. + +I spent the afternoon in a grand ramble along the Yosemite walls. From +the highest of the rocks called the Three Brothers, I enjoyed a +magnificent view comprehending all the upper half of the floor of the +valley and nearly all the rocks of the walls on both sides and at the +head, with snowy peaks in the background. Saw also the Vernal and Nevada +Falls, a truly glorious picture,--rocky strength and permanence combined +with beauty of plants frail and fine and evanescent; water descending in +thunder, and the same water gliding through meadows and groves in +gentlest beauty. This standpoint is about eight thousand feet above the +sea, or four thousand feet above the floor of the valley, and every +tree, though looking small and feathery, stands in admirable clearness, +and the shadows they cast are as distinct in outline as if seen at a +distance of a few yards. They appeared even more so. No words will ever +describe the exquisite beauty and charm of this mountain park--Nature's +landscape garden at once tenderly beautiful and sublime. No wonder it +draws nature-lovers from all over the world. + +Glacial action even on this lofty summit is plainly displayed. Not only +has all the lovely valley now smiling in sunshine been filled to the +brim with ice, but it has been deeply overflowed. + +I visited our old Yosemite camp-ground on the head of Indian Creek, and +found it fairly patted and smoothed down with bear-tracks. The bears had +eaten all the sheep that were smothered in the corral, and some of the +grand animals must have died, for Mr. Delaney, before leaving camp, put +a large quantity of poison in the carcasses. All sheep-men carry +strychnine to kill coyotes, bears, and panthers, though neither coyotes +nor panthers are at all numerous in the upper mountains. The little +dog-like wolves are far more numerous in the foothill region and on the +plains, where they find a better supply of food,--saw only one +panther-track above eight thousand feet. + +[Illustration: _The Three Brothers, Yosemite National Park_] + +On my return after sunset to the Portuguese camp I found the shepherds +greatly excited over the behavior of the bears that have learned to like +mutton. "They are getting worse and worse," they lamented. Not +willing to wait decently until after dark for their suppers, they come +and kill and eat their fill in broad daylight. The evening before my +arrival, when the two shepherds were leisurely driving the flock toward +camp half an hour before sunset, a hungry bear came out of the chaparral +within a few yards of them and shuffled deliberately toward the flock. +"Portuguese Joe," who always carried a gun loaded with buckshot, fired +excitedly, threw down his gun, fled to the nearest suitable tree, and +climbed to a safe height without waiting to see the effect of his shot. +His companion also ran, but said that he saw the bear rise on its hind +legs and throw out its arms as if feeling for somebody, and then go into +the brush as if wounded. + +At another of their camps in this neighborhood, a bear with two cubs +attacked the flock before sunset, just as they were approaching the +corral. Joe promptly climbed a tree out of danger, while Antone, +rebuking his companion for cowardice in abandoning his charge, said that +he was not going to let bears "eat up his sheeps" in daylight, and +rushed towards the bears, shouting and setting his dog on them. The +frightened cubs climbed a tree, but the mother ran to meet the shepherd +and seemed anxious to fight. Antone stood astonished for a moment, +eyeing the oncoming bear, then turned and fled, closely pursued. Unable +to reach a suitable tree for climbing, he ran to the camp and scrambled +up to the roof of the little cabin; the bear followed, but did not climb +to the roof,--only stood glaring up at him for a few minutes, +threatening him and holding him in mortal terror, then went to her cubs, +called them down, went to the flock, caught a sheep for supper, and +vanished in the brush. As soon as the bear left the cabin, the trembling +Antone begged Joe to show him a good safe tree, up which he climbed like +a sailor climbing a mast, and remained as long as he could hold on, the +tree being almost branchless. After these disastrous experiences the two +shepherds chopped and gathered large piles of dry wood and made a ring +of fire around the corral every night, while one with a gun kept watch +from a comfortable stage built on a neighboring pine that commanded a +view of the corral. This evening the show made by the circle of fire was +very fine, bringing out the surrounding trees in most impressive relief, +and making the thousands of sheep eyes glow like a glorious bed of +diamonds. + +_August 14._ Up to the time I went to bed last night all was quiet, +though we expected the shaggy freebooters every minute. They did not +come till near midnight, when a pair walked boldly to the corral between +two of the great fires, climbed in, killed two sheep and smothered ten, +while the frightened watcher in the tree did not fire a single shot, +saying that he was afraid he might kill some of the sheep, for the bears +got into the corral before he got a good clear view of them. I told the +shepherds they should at once move the flock to another camp. "Oh, no +use, no use," they lamented; "where we go, the bears go too. See my poor +dead sheeps--soon all dead. No use try another camp. We go down to the +plains." And as I afterwards learned, they were driven out of the +mountains a month before the usual time. Were bears much more numerous +and destructive, the sheep would be kept away altogether. + +It seems strange that bears, so fond of all sorts of flesh, running the +risks of guns and fires and poison, should never attack men except in +defense of their young. How easily and safely a bear could pick us up as +we lie asleep! Only wolves and tigers seem to have learned to hunt man +for food, and perhaps sharks and crocodiles. Mosquitoes and other +insects would, I suppose, devour a helpless man in some parts of the +world, and so might lions, leopards, wolves, hyenas, and panthers at +times if pressed by hunger,--but under ordinary circumstances, perhaps, +only the tiger among land animals may be said to be a man-eater,--unless +we add man himself. + +Clouds as usual about .05. Another glorious Sierra day, warm, crisp, +fragrant, and clear. Many of the flowering plants have gone to seed, but +many others are unfolding their petals every day, and the firs and pines +are more fragrant than ever. Their seeds are nearly ripe, and will soon +be flying in the merriest flocks that ever spread a wing. + +On the way back to our Tuolumne camp, I enjoyed the scenery if possible +more than when it first came to view. Every feature already seems +familiar as if I had lived here always. I never weary gazing at the +wonderful Cathedral. It has more individual character than any other +rock or mountain I ever saw, excepting perhaps the Yosemite South Dome. +The forests, too, seem kindly familiar, and the lakes and meadows and +glad singing streams. I should like to dwell with them forever. Here +with bread and water I should be content. Even if not allowed to roam +and climb, tethered to a stake or tree in some meadow or grove, even +then I should be content forever. Bathed in such beauty, watching, the +expressions ever varying on the faces of the mountains, watching the +stars, which here have a glory that the lowlander never dreams of, +watching the circling seasons, listening to the songs of the waters and +winds and birds, would be endless pleasure. And what glorious cloudlands +I should see, storms and calms,--a new heaven and a new earth every day, +aye and new inhabitants. And how many visitors I should have. I feel +sure I should not have one dull moment. And why should this appear +extravagant? It is only common sense, a sign of health, genuine, +natural, all-awake health. One would be at an endless Godful play, and +what speeches and music and acting and scenery and lights!--sun, moon, +stars, auroras. Creation just beginning, the morning stars "still +singing together and all the sons of God shouting for joy." + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +BLOODY CAÑON AND MONO LAKE + + +_August 21._ Have just returned from a fine wild excursion across the +range to Mono Lake, by way of the Mono or Bloody Cañon Pass. Mr. Delaney +has been good to me all summer, lending a helping, sympathizing hand at +every opportunity, as if my wild notions and rambles and studies were +his own. He is one of those remarkable California men who have been +overflowed and denuded and remodeled by the excitements of the gold +fields, like the Sierra landscapes by grinding ice, bringing the harder +bosses and ridges of character into relief,--a tall, lean, big-boned, +big-hearted Irishman, educated for a priest in Maynooth College,--lots +of good in him, shining out now and then in this mountain light. +Recognizing my love of wild places, he told me one evening that I ought +to go through Bloody Cañon, for he was sure I should find it wild +enough. He had not been there himself, he said, but had heard many of +his mining friends speak of it as the wildest of all the Sierra passes. +Of course I was glad to go. It lies just to the east of our camp and +swoops down from the summit of the range to the edge of the Mono Desert, +making a descent of about four thousand feet in a distance of about four +miles. It was known and traveled as a pass by wild animals and the +Indians long before its discovery by white men in the gold year of 1858, +as is shown by old trails which come together at the head of it. The +name may have been suggested by the red color of the metamorphic slates +in which the cañon abounds, or by the blood stains on the rocks from the +unfortunate animals that were compelled to slide and shuffle over the +sharp-angled boulders. + +Early in the morning I tied my notebook and some bread to my belt, and +strode away full of eager hope, feeling that I was going to have a +glorious revel. The glacier meadows that lay along my way served to +soothe my morning speed, for the sod was full of blue gentians and +daisies, kalmia and dwarf vaccinium, calling for recognition as old +friends, and I had to stop many times to examine the shining rocks over +which the ancient glacier had passed with tremendous pressure, polishing +them so well that they reflected the sunlight like glass in some places, +while fine striæ, seen clearly through a lens, indicated the direction +in which the ice had flowed. On some of the sloping polished pavements +abrupt steps occur, showing that occasionally large masses of the rock +had given way before the glacial pressure, as well as small particles; +moraines, too, some scattered, others regular like long curving +embankments and dams, occur here and there, giving the general surface +of the region a young, new-made appearance. I watched the gradual +dwarfing of the pines as I ascended, and the corresponding dwarfing of +nearly all the rest of the vegetation. On the slopes of Mammoth +Mountain, to the south of the pass, I saw many gaps in the woods +reaching from the upper edge of the timber-line down to the level +meadows, where avalanches of snow had descended, sweeping away every +tree in their paths as well as the soil they were growing in, leaving +the bedrock bare. The trees are nearly all uprooted, but a few that had +been extremely well anchored in clefts of the rock were broken off near +the ground. It seems strange at first sight that trees that had been +allowed to grow for a century or more undisturbed should in their old +age be thus swished away at a stroke. Such avalanches can only occur +under rare conditions of weather and snowfall. No doubt on some +positions of the mountain slopes the inclination and smoothness of the +surface is such that avalanches must occur every winter, or even after +every heavy snowstorm, and of course no trees or even bushes can grow in +their channels. I noticed a few clean-swept slopes of this kind. The +uprooted trees that had grown in the pathway of what might be called +"century avalanches" were piled in windrows, and tucked snugly against +the wall-trees of the gaps, heads downward, excepting a few that were +carried out into the open ground of the meadows, where the heads of the +avalanches had stopped. Young pines, mostly the two-leaved and the +white-barked, are already springing up in these cleared gaps. It would +be interesting to ascertain the age of these saplings, for thus we +should gain a fair approximation to the year that the great avalanches +occurred. Perhaps most or all of them occurred the same winter. How glad +I should be if free to pursue such studies! + +Near the summit at the head of the pass I found a species of dwarf +willow lying perfectly flat on the ground, making a nice, soft, silky +gray carpet, not a single stem or branch more than three inches high; +but the catkins, which are now nearly ripe, stand erect and make a +close, nearly regular gray growth, being larger than all the rest of the +plants. Some of these interesting dwarfs have only one catkin--willow +bushes reduced to their lowest terms. I found patches of dwarf vaccinium +also forming smooth carpets, closely pressed to the ground or against +the sides of stones, and covered with round pink flowers in lavish +abundance as if they had fallen from the sky like hail. A little higher, +almost at the very head of the pass, I found the blue arctic daisy and +purple-flowered bryanthus, the mountain's own darlings, gentle +mountaineers face to face with the sky, kept safe and warm by a thousand +miracles, seeming always the finer and purer the wilder and stormier +their homes. The trees, tough and resiny, seem unable to go a step +farther; but up and up, far above the tree-line, these tender plants +climb, cheerily spreading their gray and pink carpets right up to the +very edges of the snow-banks in deep hollows and shadows. Here, too, is +the familiar robin, tripping on the flowery lawns, bravely singing the +same cheery song I first heard when a boy in Wisconsin newly arrived +from old Scotland. In this fine company sauntering enchanted, taking no +heed of time, I at length entered the gate of the pass, and the huge +rocks began to close around me in all their mysterious impressiveness. +Just then I was startled by a lot of queer, hairy, muffled creatures +coming shuffling, shambling, wallowing toward me as if they had no +bones in their bodies. Had I discovered them while they were yet a good +way off, I should have tried to avoid them. What a picture they made +contrasted with the others I had just been admiring. When I came up to +them, I found that they were only a band of Indians from Mono on their +way to Yosemite for a load of acorns. They were wrapped in blankets made +of the skins of sage-rabbits. The dirt on some of the faces seemed +almost old enough and thick enough to have a geological significance; +some were strangely blurred and divided into sections by seams and +wrinkles that looked like cleavage joints, and had a worn abraded look +as if they had lain exposed to the weather for ages. I tried to pass +them without stopping, but they wouldn't let me; forming a dismal circle +about me, I was closely besieged while they begged whiskey or tobacco, +and it was hard to convince them that I hadn't any. How glad I was to +get away from the gray, grim crowd and see them vanish down the trail! +Yet it seems sad to feel such desperate repulsion from one's fellow +beings, however degraded. To prefer the society of squirrels and +woodchucks to that of our own species must surely be unnatural. So with +a fresh breeze and a hill or mountain between us I must wish them +Godspeed and try to pray and sing with Burns, "It's coming yet, for a' +that, that man to man, the warld o'er, shall brothers be for a' that." + +How the day passed I hardly know. By the map I have come only about ten +or twelve miles, though the sun is already low in the west, showing how +long I must have lingered, observing, sketching, taking notes among the +glaciated rocks and moraines and Alpine flower-beds. + +At sundown the somber crags and peaks were inspired with the ineffable +beauty of the alpenglow, and a solemn, awful stillness hushed everything +in the landscape. Then I crept into a hollow by the side of a small lake +near the head of the cañon, smoothed a sheltered spot, and gathered a +few pine tassels for a bed. After the short twilight began to fade I +kindled a sunny fire, made a tin cupful of tea, and lay down to watch +the stars. Soon the night-wind began to flow from the snowy peaks +overhead, at first only a gentle breathing, then gaining strength, in +less than an hour rumbled in massive volume something like a boisterous +stream in a boulder-choked channel, roaring and moaning down the cañon +as if the work it had to do was tremendously important and fateful; and +mingled with these storm tones were those of the waterfalls on the +north side of the cañon, now sounding distinctly, now smothered by the +heavier cataracts of air, making a glorious psalm of savage wildness. My +fire squirmed and struggled as if ill at ease, for though in a sheltered +nook, detached masses of icy wind often fell like icebergs on top of it, +scattering sparks and coals, so that I had to keep well back to avoid +being burned. But the big resiny roots and knots of the dwarf pine could +neither be beaten out nor blown away, and the flames, now rushing up in +long lances, now flattened and twisted on the rocky ground, roared as if +trying to tell the storm stories of the trees they belonged to, as the +light given out was telling the story of the sunshine they had gathered +in centuries of summers. + +The stars shone clear in the strip of sky between the huge dark cliffs; +and as I lay recalling the lessons of the day, suddenly the full moon +looked down over the cañon wall, her face apparently filled with eager +concern, which had a startling effect, as if she had left her place in +the sky and had come down to gaze on me alone, like a person entering +one's bedroom. It was hard to realize that she was in her place in the +sky, and was looking abroad on half the globe, land and sea, mountains, +plains, lakes, rivers, oceans, ships, cities with their myriads of +inhabitants sleeping and waking, sick and well. No, she seemed to be +just on the rim of Bloody Cañon and looking only at me. This was indeed +getting near to Nature. I remember watching the harvest moon rising +above the oak trees in Wisconsin apparently as big as a cart-wheel and +not farther than half a mile distant. With these exceptions I might say +I never before had seen the moon, and this night she seemed so full of +life and so near, the effect was marvelously impressive and made me +forget the Indians, the great black rocks above me, and the wild uproar +of the winds and waters making their way down the huge jagged gorge. Of +course I slept but little and gladly welcomed the dawn over the Mono +Desert. By the time I had made a cupful of tea the sunbeams were pouring +through the cañon, and I set forth, gazing eagerly at the tremendous +walls of red slates savagely hacked and scarred and apparently ready to +fall in avalanches great enough to choke the pass and fill up the chain +of lakelets. But soon its beauties came to view, and I bounded lightly +from rock to rock, admiring the polished bosses shining in the slant +sunshine with glorious effect in the general roughness of moraines and +avalanche taluses, even toward the head of the cañon near the highest +fountains of the ice. Here, too, are most of the lowly plant people seen +yesterday on the other side of the divide now opening their beautiful +eyes. None could fail to glory in Nature's tender care for them in so +wild a place. The little ouzel is flitting from rock to rock along the +rapid swirling Cañon Creek, diving for breakfast in icy pools, and +merrily singing as if the huge rugged avalanche-swept gorge was the most +delightful of all its mountain homes. Besides a high fall on the north +wall of the cañon, apparently coming direct from the sky, there are many +narrow cascades, bright silvery ribbons zigzagging down the red cliffs, +tracing the diagonal cleavage joints of the metamorphic slates, now +contracted and out of sight, now leaping from ledge to ledge in filmy +sheets through which the sunbeams sift. And on the main Cañon Creek, to +which all these are tributary, is a series of small falls, cascades, and +rapids extending all the way down to the foot of the cañon, interrupted +only by the lakes in which the tossed and beaten waters rest. One of the +finest of the cascades is outspread on the face of a precipice, its +waters separated into ribbon-like strips, and woven into a diamond-like +pattern by tracing the cleavage joints of the rock, while tufts of +bryanthus, grass, sedge, saxifrage form beautiful fringes. Who could +imagine beauty so fine in so savage a place? Gardens are blooming in all +sorts of nooks and hollows,--at the head alpine eriogonums, erigerons, +saxifrages, gentians, cowania, bush primula; in the middle region +larkspur, columbine, orthocarpus, castilleia, harebell, epilobium, +violets, mints, yarrow; near the foot sunflowers, lilies, brier rose, +iris, lonicera, clematis. + +One of the smallest of the cascades, which I name the Bower Cascade, is +in the lower region of the pass, where the vegetation is snowy and +luxuriant. Wild rose and dogwood form dense masses overarching the +stream, and out of this bower the creek, grown strong with many +indashing tributaries, leaps forth into the light, and descends in a +fluted curve thick-sown with crisp flashing spray. At the foot of the +cañon there is a lake formed in part at least by the damming of the +stream by a terminal moraine. The three other lakes in the cañon are in +basins eroded from the solid rock, where the pressure of the glacier was +greatest, and the most resisting portions of the basin rims are +beautifully, tellingly polished. Below Moraine Lake at the foot of the +cañon there are several old lake-basins lying between the large lateral +moraines which extend out into the desert. These basins are now +completely filled up by the material carried in by the streams, and +changed to dry sandy flats covered mostly by grass and artemisia and +sun-loving flowers. All these lower lake-basins were evidently formed by +terminal moraine dams deposited where the receding glacier had lingered +during short periods of less waste, or greater snowfall, or both. + +Looking up the cañon from the warm sunny edge of the Mono plain my +morning ramble seems a dream, so great is the change in the vegetation +and climate. The lilies on the bank of Moraine Lake are higher than my +head, and the sunshine is hot enough for palms. Yet the snow round the +arctic gardens at the summit of the pass is plainly visible, only about +four miles away, and between lie specimen zones of all the principal +climates of the globe. In little more than an hour one may swoop down +from winter to summer, from an Arctic to a torrid region, through as +great changes of climate as one would encounter in traveling from +Labrador to Florida. + +The Indians I had met near the head of the cañon had camped at the foot +of it the night before they made the ascent, and I found their fire +still smoking on the side of a small tributary stream near Moraine +Lake; and on the edge of what is called the Mono Desert, four or five +miles from the lake, I came to a patch of elymus, or wild rye, growing +in magnificent waving clumps six or eight feet high, bearing heads six +to eight inches long. The crop was ripe, and Indian women were gathering +the grain in baskets by bending down large handfuls, beating out the +seed, and fanning it in the wind. The grains are about five eighths of +an inch long, dark-colored and sweet. I fancy the bread made from it +must be as good as wheat bread. A fine squirrelish employment this wild +grain gathering seems, and the women were evidently enjoying it, +laughing and chattering and looking almost natural, though most Indians +I have seen are not a whit more natural in their lives than we civilized +whites. Perhaps if I knew them better I should like them better. The +worst thing about them is their uncleanliness. Nothing truly wild is +unclean. Down on the shore of Mono Lake I saw a number of their flimsy +huts on the banks of streams that dash swiftly into that dead sea,--mere +brush tents where they lie and eat at their ease. Some of the men were +feasting on buffalo berries, lying beneath the tall bushes now red with +fruit. The berries are rather insipid, but they must needs be wholesome, +since for days and weeks the Indians, it is said, eat nothing else. In +the season they in like manner depend chiefly on the fat larvæ of a fly +that breeds in the salt water of the lake, or on the big fat corrugated +caterpillars of a species of silkworm that feeds on the leaves of the +yellow pine. Occasionally a grand rabbit-drive is organized and hundreds +are slain with clubs on the lake shore, chased and frightened into a +dense crowd by dogs, boys, girls, men and women, and rings of sage brush +fire, when of course they are quickly killed. The skins are made into +blankets. In the autumn the more enterprising of the hunters bring in a +good many deer, and rarely a wild sheep from the high peaks. Antelopes +used to be abundant on the desert at the base of the interior +mountain-ranges. Sage hens, grouse, and squirrels help to vary their +wild diet of worms; pine nuts also from the small interesting _Pinus +monophylla_, and good bread and good mush are made from acorns and wild +rye. Strange to say, they seem to like the lake larvæ best of all. Long +windrows are washed up on the shore, which they gather and dry like +grain for winter use. It is said that wars, on account of encroachments +on each other's worm-grounds, are of common occurrence among the various +tribes and families. Each claims a certain marked portion of the shore. +The pine nuts are delicious--large quantities are gathered every autumn. +The tribes of the west flank of the range trade acorns for worms and +pine nuts. The squaws carry immense loads on their backs across the +rough passes and down the range, making journeys of about forty or fifty +miles each way. + +The desert around the lake is surprisingly flowery. In many places among +the sage bushes I saw mentzelia, abronia, aster, bigelovia, and gilia, +all of which seemed to enjoy the hot sunshine. The abronia, in +particular, is a delicate, fragrant, and most charming plant. + +[Illustration: MONO LAKE AND VOLCANIC CONES, LOOKING SOUTH] + +[Illustration: HIGHEST MONO VOLCANIC CONES (NEAR VIEW)] + +Opposite the mouth of the cañon a range of volcanic cones extends +southward from the lake, rising abruptly out of the desert like a chain +of mountains. The largest of the cones are about twenty-five hundred +feet high above the lake level, have well-formed craters, and all of +them are evidently comparatively recent additions to the landscape. At a +distance of a few miles they look like heaps of loose ashes that have +never been blest by either rain or snow, but, for a' that and a' that, +yellow pines are climbing their gray slopes, trying to clothe them and +give beauty for ashes. A country of wonderful contrasts. Hot deserts +bounded by snow-laden mountains,--cinders and ashes scattered on +glacier-polished pavements,--frost and fire working together in the +making of beauty. In the lake are several volcanic islands, which show +that the waters were once mingled with fire. + +Glad to get back to the green side of the mountains, though I have +greatly enjoyed the gray east side and hope to see more of it. Reading +these grand mountain manuscripts displayed through every vicissitude of +heat and cold, calm and storm, upheaving volcanoes and down-grinding +glaciers, we see that everything in Nature called destruction must be +creation--a change from beauty to beauty. + +Our glacier meadow camp north of the Soda Springs seems more beautiful +every day. The grass covers all the ground though the leaves are +thread-like in fineness, and in walking on the sod it seems like a plush +carpet of marvelous richness and softness, and the purple panicles +brushing against one's feet are not felt. This is a typical glacier +meadow, occupying the basin of a vanished lake, very definitely bounded +by walls of the arrowy two-leaved pines drawn up in a handsome orderly +array like soldiers on parade. There are many other meadows of the same +kind hereabouts imbedded in the woods. The main big meadows along the +river are the same in general and extend with but little interruption +for ten or twelve miles, but none I have seen are so finely finished +and perfect as this one. It is richer in flowering plants than the +prairies of Wisconsin and Illinois were when in all their wild glory. +The showy flowers are mostly three species of gentian, a purple and +yellow orthocarpus, a golden-rod or two, a small blue pentstemon almost +like a gentian, potentilla, ivesia, pedicularis, white violet, kalmia, +and bryanthus. There are no coarse weedy plants. Through this flowery +lawn flows a stream silently gliding, swirling, slipping as if careful +not to make the slightest noise. It is only about three feet wide in +most places, widening here and there into pools six or eight feet in +diameter with no apparent current, the banks bossily rounded by the +down-curving mossy sod, grass panicles over-leaning like miniature pine +trees, and rugs of bryanthus spreading here and there over sunken +boulders. At the foot of the meadow the stream, rich with the juices of +the plants it has refreshed, sings merrily down over shelving rock +ledges on its way to the Tuolumne River. The sublime, massive Mount Dana +and its companions, green, red, and white, loom impressively above the +pines along the eastern horizon; a range or spur of gray rugged granite +crags and mountains on the north; the curiously crested and battlemented +Mount Hoffman on the west; and the Cathedral Range on the south with +its grand Cathedral Peak, Cathedral Spires, Unicorn Peak, and several +others, gray and pointed or massively rounded. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +THE TUOLUMNE CAMP + + +_August 22._ Clouds none, cool west wind, slight hoarfrost on the +meadows. Carlo is missing; have been seeking him all day. In the thick +woods between camp and the river, among tall grass and fallen pines, I +discovered a baby fawn. At first it seemed inclined to come to me; but +when I tried to catch it, and got within a rod or two, it turned and +walked softly away, choosing its steps like a cautious, stealthy, +hunting cat. Then, as if suddenly called or alarmed, it began to buck +and run like a grown deer, jumping high above the fallen trunks, and was +soon out of sight. Possibly its mother may have called it, but I did not +hear her. I don't think fawns ever leave the home thicket or follow +their mothers until they are called or frightened. I am distressed about +Carlo. There are several other camps and dogs not many miles from here, +and I still hope to find him. He never left me before. Panthers are very +rare here, and I don't think any of these cats would dare touch him. He +knows bears too well to be caught by them, and as for Indians, they +don't want him. + +_August 23._ Cool, bright day, hinting Indian summer. Mr. Delaney has +gone to the Smith Ranch, on the Tuolumne below Hetch-Hetchy Valley, +thirty-five or forty miles from here, so I'll be alone for a week or +more,--not really alone, for Carlo has come back. He was at a camp a few +miles to the northwestward. He looked sheepish and ashamed when I asked +him where he had been and why he had gone away without leave. He is now +trying to get me to caress him and show signs of forgiveness. A wondrous +wise dog. A great load is off my mind. I could not have left the +mountains without him. He seems very glad to get back to me. + +Rose and crimson sunset, and soon after the stars appeared the moon rose +in most impressive majesty over the top of Mount Dana. I sauntered up +the meadow in the white light. The jet-black tree-shadows were so +wonderfully distinct and substantial looking, I often stepped high in +crossing them, taking them for black charred logs. + +_August 24._ Another charming day, warm and calm soon after sunrise, +clouds only about .01,--faint, silky cirrus wisps, scarcely visible. +Slight frost, Indian summerish, the mountains growing softer in outline +and dreamy looking, their rough angles melted off, apparently. Sky at +evening with fine, dark, subdued purple, almost like the evening purple +of the San Joaquin plains in settled weather. The moon is now gazing +over the summit of Dana. Glorious exhilarating air. I wonder if in all +the world there is another mountain range of equal height blessed with +weather so fine, and so openly kind and hospitable and approachable. + +_August 25._ Cool as usual in the morning, quickly changing to the +ordinary serene generous warmth and brightness. Toward evening the west +wind was cool and sent us to the camp-fire. Of all Nature's flowery +carpeted mountain halls none can be finer than this glacier meadow. Bees +and butterflies seem as abundant as ever. The birds are still here, +showing no sign of leaving for winter quarters though the frost must +bring them to mind. For my part I should like to stay here all winter or +all my life or even all eternity. + +_August 26._ Frost this morning; all the meadow grass and some of the +pine needles sparkling with irised crystals,--flowers of light. Large +picturesque clouds, craggy like rocks, are piled on Mount Dana, reddish +in color like the mountain itself; the sky for a few degrees around the +horizon is pale purple, into which the pines dip their spires with fine +effect. Spent the day as usual looking about me, watching the changing +lights, the ripening autumn colors of the grass, seeds, late-blooming +gentians, asters, goldenrods; parting the meadow grass here and there +and looking down into the underworld of mosses and liverworts; watching +the busy ants and beetles and other small people at work and play like +squirrels and bears in a forest; studying the formation of lakes and +meadows, moraines, mountain sculpture; making small beginnings in these +directions, charmed by the serene beauty of everything. + +The day has been extra cloudy, though bright on the whole, for the +clouds were brighter than common. Clouds about .15, which in Switzerland +would be considered extra clear. Probably more free sunshine falls on +this majestic range than on any other in the world I've ever seen or +heard of. It has the brightest weather, brightest glacier-polished +rocks, the greatest abundance of irised spray from its glorious +waterfalls, the brightest forests of silver firs and silver pines, more +star-shine, moonshine, and perhaps more crystal-shine than any other +mountain chain, and its countless mirror lakes, having more light poured +into them, glow and spangle most. And how glorious the shining after the +short summer showers and after frosty nights when the morning sunbeams +are pouring through the crystals on the grass and pine needles, and how +ineffably spiritually fine is the morning-glow on the mountain-tops and +the alpenglow of evening. Well may the Sierra be named, not the Snowy +Range, but the Range of Light. + +_August 27._ Clouds only .05,--mostly white and pink cumuli over the +Hoffman spur towards evening,--frosty morning. Crystals grow in +marvelous beauty and perfection of form these still nights, every one +built as carefully as the grandest holiest temple, as if planned to +endure forever. + +Contemplating the lace-like fabric of streams outspread over the +mountains, we are reminded that everything is flowing--going somewhere, +animals and so-called lifeless rocks as well as water. Thus the snow +flows fast or slow in grand beauty-making glaciers and avalanches; the +air in majestic floods carrying minerals, plant leaves, seeds, spores, +with streams of music and fragrance; water streams carrying rocks both +in solution and in the form of mud particles, sand, pebbles, and +boulders. Rocks flow from volcanoes like water from springs, and animals +flock together and flow in currents modified by stepping, leaping, +gliding, flying, swimming, etc. While the stars go streaming through +space pulsed on and on forever like blood globules in Nature's warm +heart. + +_August 28._ The dawn a glorious song of color. Sky absolutely +cloudless. A fine crop hoarfrost. Warm after ten o'clock. The gentians +don't mind the first frost though their petals seem so delicate; they +close every night as if going to sleep, and awake fresh as ever in the +morning sun-glory. The grass is a shade browner since last week, but +there are no nipped wilted plants of any sort as far as I have seen. +Butterflies and the grand host of smaller flies are benumbed every +night, but they hover and dance in the sunbeams over the meadows before +noon with no apparent lack of playful, joyful life. Soon they must all +fall like petals in an orchard, dry and wrinkled, not a wing of all the +mighty host left to tingle the air. Nevertheless new myriads will arise +in the spring, rejoicing, exulting, as if laughing cold death to scorn. + +_August 29._ Clouds about .05, slight frost. Bland serene Indian summer +weather. Have been gazing all day at the mountains, watching the +changing lights. More and more plainly are they clothed with light as a +garment, white tinged with pale purple, palest during the midday hours, +richest in the morning and evening. Everything seems consciously +peaceful, thoughtful, faithfully waiting God's will. + +_August 30._ This day just like yesterday. A few clouds motionless and +apparently with no work to do beyond looking beautiful. Frost enough +for crystal building,--glorious fields of ice-diamonds destined to last +but a night. How lavish is Nature building, pulling down, creating, +destroying, chasing every material particle from form to form, ever +changing, ever beautiful. + +Mr. Delaney arrived this morning. Felt not a trace of loneliness while +he was gone. On the contrary, I never enjoyed grander company. The whole +wilderness seems to be alive and familiar, full of humanity. The very +stones seem talkative, sympathetic, brotherly. No wonder when we +consider that we all have the same Father and Mother. + +_August 31._ Clouds .05. Silky cirrus wisps and fringes so fine they +almost escape notice. Frost enough for another crop of crystals on the +meadows but none on the forests. The gentians, goldenrods, asters, etc., +don't seem to feel it; neither petals nor leaves are touched though they +seem so tender. Every day opens and closes like a flower, noiseless, +effortless. Divine peace glows on all the majestic landscape like the +silent enthusiastic joy that sometimes transfigures a noble human face. + +_September 1._ Clouds .05--motionless, of no particular color--ornaments +with no hint of rain or snow in them. Day all calm--another grand throb +of Nature's heart, ripening late flowers and seeds for next summer, full +of life and the thoughts and plans of life to come, and full of ripe and +ready death beautiful as life, telling divine wisdom and goodness and +immortality. Have been up Mount Dana, making haste to see as much as I +can now that the time of departure is drawing nigh. The views from the +summit reach far and wide, eastward over the Mono Lake and Desert; +mountains beyond mountains looking strangely barren and gray and bare +like heaps of ashes dumped from the sky. The lake, eight or ten miles in +diameter, shines like a burnished disk of silver, no trees about its +gray, ashy, cindery shores. Looking westward, the glorious forests are +seen sweeping over countless ridges and hills, girdling domes and +subordinate mountains, fringing in long curving lines the dividing +ridges, and filling every hollow where the glaciers have spread +soil-beds however rocky or smooth. Looking northward and southward along +the axis of the range, you see the glorious array of high mountains, +crags and peaks and snow, the fountain-heads of rivers that are flowing +west to the sea through the famous Golden Gate, and east to hot salt +lakes and deserts to evaporate and hurry back into the sky. Innumerable +lakes are shining like eyes beneath heavy rock brows, bare or tree +fringed, or imbedded in black forests. Meadow openings in the woods seem +as numerous as the lakes or perhaps more so. Far up the moraine-covered +slopes and among crumbling rocks I found many delicate hardy plants, +some of them still in flower. The best gains of this trip were the +lessons of unity and interrelation of all the features of the landscape +revealed in general views. The lakes and meadows are located just where +the ancient glaciers bore heaviest at the foot of the steepest parts of +their channels, and of course their longest diameters are approximately +parallel with each other and with the belts of forests growing in long +curving lines on the lateral and medial moraines, and in broad +outspreading fields on the terminal beds deposited toward the end of the +ice period when the glaciers were receding. The domes, ridges, and spurs +also show the influence of glacial action in their forms, which +approximately seem to be the forms of greatest strength with reference +to the stress of oversweeping, past-sweeping, down-grinding ice-streams; +survivals of the most resisting masses, or those most favorably +situated. How interesting everything is! Every rock, mountain, stream, +plant, lake, lawn, forest, garden, bird, beast, insect seems to call +and invite us to come and learn something of its history and +relationship. But shall the poor ignorant scholar be allowed to try the +lessons they offer? It seems too great and good to be true. Soon I'll be +going to the lowlands. The bread camp must soon be removed. If I had a +few sacks of flour, an axe, and some matches, I would build a cabin of +pine logs, pile up plenty of firewood about it and stay all winter to +see the grand fertile snow-storms, watch the birds and animals that +winter thus high, how they live, how the forests look snow-laden or +buried, and how the avalanches look and sound on their way down the +mountains. But now I'll have to go, for there is nothing to spare in the +way of provisions. I'll surely be back, however, surely I'll be back. No +other place has ever so overwhelmingly attracted me as this hospitable, +Godful wilderness. + +[Illustration: ONE OF THE HIGHEST MOUNT RITTER FOUNTAINS] + +_September 2._ A grand, red, rosy, crimson day,--a perfect glory of a +day. What it means I don't know. It is the first marked change from +tranquil sunshine with purple mornings and evenings and still, white +noons. There is nothing like a storm, however. The average cloudiness +only about .08, and there is no sighing in the woods to betoken a big +weather change. The sky was red in the morning and evening, the color +not diffused like the ordinary purple glow, but loaded upon separate +well-defined clouds that remained motionless, as if anchored around the +jagged mountain-fenced horizon. A deep-red cap, bluffy around its sides, +lingered a long time on Mount Dana and Mount Gibbs, drooping so low as +to hide most of their bases, but leaving Dana's round summit free, which +seemed to float separate and alone over the big crimson cloud. Mammoth +Mountain, to the south of Gibbs and Bloody Cañon, striped and spotted +with snow-banks and clumps of dwarf pine, was also favored with a +glorious crimson cap, in the making of which there was no trace of +economy--a huge bossy pile colored with a perfect passion of crimson +that seemed important enough to be sent off to burn among the stars in +majestic independence. One is constantly reminded of the infinite +lavishness and fertility of Nature--inexhaustible abundance amid what +seems enormous waste. And yet when we look into any of her operations +that lie within reach of our minds, we learn that no particle of her +material is wasted or worn out. It is eternally flowing from use to use, +beauty to yet higher beauty; and we soon cease to lament waste and +death, and rather rejoice and exult in the imperishable, unspendable +wealth of the universe, and faithfully watch and wait the reappearance +of everything that melts and fades and dies about us, feeling sure that +its next appearance will be better and more beautiful than the last. + +I watched the growth of these red-lands of the sky as eagerly as if new +mountain ranges were being built. Soon the group of snowy peaks in whose +recesses lie the highest fountains of the Tuolumne, Merced, and North +Fork of the San Joaquin were decorated with majestic colored clouds like +those already described, but more complicated, to correspond with the +grand fountain-heads of the rivers they overshadowed. The Sierra +Cathedral, to the south of camp, was overshadowed like Sinai. Never +before noticed so fine a union of rock and cloud in form and color and +substance, drawing earth and sky together as one; and so human is it, +every feature and tint of color goes to one's heart, and we shout, +exulting in wild enthusiasm as if all the divine show were our own. More +and more, in a place like this, we feel ourselves part of wild Nature, +kin to everything. Spent most of the day high up on the north rim of the +valley, commanding views of the clouds in all their red glory spreading +their wonderful light over all the basin, while the rocks and trees and +small Alpine plants at my feet seemed hushed and thoughtful, as if they +also were conscious spectators of the glorious new cloud-world. + +Here and there, as I plodded farther and higher, I came to small +garden-patches and ferneries just where one would naturally decide that +no plant-creature could possibly live. But, as in the region about the +head of Mono Pass and the top of Dana, it was in the wildest, highest +places that the most beautiful and tender and enthusiastic plant-people +were found. Again and again, as I lingered over these charming plants, I +said, How came you here? How do you live through the winter? Our roots, +they explained, reach far down the joints of the summer-warmed rocks, +and beneath our fine snow mantle killing frosts cannot reach us, while +we sleep away the dark half of the year dreaming of spring. + +Ever since I was allowed entrance into these mountains I have been +looking for cassiope, said to be the most beautiful and best loved of +the heathworts, but, strange to say, I have not yet found it. On my high +mountain walks I keep muttering, "Cassiope, cassiope." This name, as +Calvinists say, is driven in upon me, notwithstanding the glorious host +of plants that come about me uncalled as soon as I show myself. Cassiope +seems the highest name of all the small mountain-heath people, and as +if conscious of her worth, keeps out of my way. I must find her soon, if +at all this year. + +_September 4._ All the vast sky dome is clear, filled only with mellow +Indian summer light. The pine and hemlock and fir cones are nearly ripe +and are falling fast from morning to night, cut off and gathered by the +busy squirrels. Almost all the plants have matured their seeds, their +summer work done; and the summer crop of birds and deer will soon be +able to follow their parents to the foothills and plains at the approach +of winter, when the snow begins to fly. + +_September 5._ No clouds. Weather cool, calm, bright as if no great +thing was yet ready to be done. Have been sketching the North Tuolumne +Church. The sunset gloriously colored. + +_September 6._ Still another perfectly cloudless day, purple evening and +morning, all the middle hours one mass of pure serene sunshine. Soon +after sunrise the air grew warm, and there was no wind. One naturally +halted to see what Nature intended to do. There is a suggestion of real +Indian summer in the hushed brooding, faintly hazy weather. The yellow +atmosphere, though thin, is still plainly of the same general character +as that of eastern Indian summer. The peculiar mellowness is perhaps in +part caused by myriads of ripe spores adrift in the sky. + +Mr. Delaney now keeps up a solemn talk about the need of getting away +from these high mountains, telling sad stories of flocks that perished +in storms that broke suddenly into the midst of fine innocent weather +like this we are now enjoying. "In no case," said he, "will I venture to +stay so high and far back in the mountains as we now are later than the +middle of this month, no matter how warm and sunny it may be." He would +move the flock slowly at first, a few miles a day until the Yosemite +Creek basin was reached and crossed, then while lingering in the heavy +pine woods should the weather threaten he could hurry down to the +foothills, where the snow never falls deep enough to smother a sheep. Of +course I am anxious to see as much of the wilderness as possible in the +few days left me, and I say again,--May the good time come when I can +stay as long as I like with plenty of bread, far and free from trampling +flocks, though I may well be thankful for this generous foodful +inspiring summer. Anyhow we never know where we must go nor what guides +we are to get,--men, storms, guardian angels, or sheep. Perhaps almost +everybody in the least natural is guarded more than he is ever aware +of. All the wilderness seems to be full of tricks and plans to drive and +draw us up into God's Light. + +Have been busy planning, and baking bread for at least one more good +wild excursion among the high peaks, and surely none, however hopefully +aiming at fortune or fame, ever felt so gloriously happily excited by +the outlook. + +_September 7._ Left camp at daybreak and made direct for Cathedral Peak, +intending to strike eastward and southward from that point among the +peaks and ridges at the heads of the Tuolumne, Merced, and San Joaquin +Rivers. Down through the pine woods I made my way, across the Tuolumne +River and meadows, and up the heavily timbered slope forming the south +boundary of the upper Tuolumne basin, along the east side of Cathedral +Peak, and up to its topmost spire, which I reached at noon, having +loitered by the way to study the fine trees--two-leaved pine, mountain +pine, albicaulis pine, silver fir, and the most charming, most graceful +of all the evergreens, the mountain hemlock. High, cool, late-flowering +meadows also detained me, and lakelets and avalanche tracks and huge +quarries of moraine rocks above the forests. + +[Illustration: GLACIER MEADOW STREWN WITH MORAINE BOULDERS 10,000 FEET +ABOVE THE SEA (NEAR MOUNT DANA)] + +[Illustration: FRONT OF CATHEDRAL PEAK] + +All the way up from the Big Meadows to the base of the Cathedral the +ground is covered with moraine material, the left lateral moraine of the +great glacier that must have completely filled this upper Tuolumne +basin. Higher there are several small terminal moraines of residual +glaciers shoved forward at right angles against the grand simple lateral +of the main Tuolumne Glacier. A fine place to study mountain sculpture +and soil making. The view from the Cathedral Spires is very fine and +telling in every direction. Innumerable peaks, ridges, domes, meadows, +lakes, and woods; the forests extending in long curving lines and broad +fields wherever the glaciers have left soil for them to grow on, while +the sides of the highest mountains show a straggling dwarf growth +clinging to rifts in the rocks apparently independent of soil. The dark +heath-like growth on the Cathedral roof I found to be dwarf snow-pressed +albicaulis pine, about three or four feet high, but very old looking. +Many of them are bearing cones, and the noisy Clarke crow is eating the +seeds, using his long bill like a woodpecker in digging them out of the +cones. A good many flowers are still in bloom about the base of the +peak, and even on the roof among the little pines, especially a woody +yellow-flowered eriogonum and a handsome aster. The body of the +Cathedral is nearly square, and the roof slopes are wonderfully regular +and symmetrical, the ridge trending northeast and southwest. This +direction has apparently been determined by structure joints in the +granite. The gable on the northeast end is magnificent in size and +simplicity, and at its base there is a big snow-bank protected by the +shadow of the building. The front is adorned with many pinnacles and a +tall spire of curious workmanship. Here too the joints in the rock are +seen to have played an important part in determining their forms and +size and general arrangement. The Cathedral is said to be about eleven +thousand feet above the sea, but the height of the building itself above +the level of the ridge it stands on is about fifteen hundred feet. A +mile or so to the westward there is a handsome lake, and the +glacier-polished granite about it is shining so brightly it is not easy +in some places to trace the line between the rock and water, both +shining alike. Of this lake with its silvery basin and bits of meadow +and groves I have a fine view from the spires; also of Lake Tenaya, +Cloud's Rest and the South Dome of Yosemite, Mount Starr King, Mount +Hoffman, the Merced peaks, and the vast multitude of snowy fountain +peaks extending far north and south along the axis of the range. No +feature, however, of all the noble landscape as seen from here seems +more wonderful than the Cathedral itself, a temple displaying Nature's +best masonry and sermons in stones. How often I have gazed at it from +the tops of hills and ridges, and through openings in the forests on my +many short excursions, devoutly wondering, admiring, longing! This I may +say is the first time I have been at church in California, led here at +last, every door graciously opened for the poor lonely worshiper. In our +best times everything turns into religion, all the world seems a church +and the mountains altars. And lo, here at last in front of the Cathedral +is blessed cassiope, ringing her thousands of sweet-toned bells, the +sweetest church music I ever enjoyed. Listening, admiring, until late in +the afternoon I compelled myself to hasten away eastward back of rough, +sharp, spiry, splintery peaks, all of them granite like the Cathedral, +sparkling with crystals--feldspar, quartz, hornblende, mica, tourmaline. +Had a rather difficult walk and creep across an immense snow and ice +cliff which gradually increased in steepness as I advanced until it was +almost impassable. Slipped on a dangerous place, but managed to stop by +digging my heels into the thawing surface just on the brink of a +yawning ice gulf. Camped beside a little pool and a group of crinkled +dwarf pines; and as I sit by the fire trying to write notes the shallow +pool seems fathomless with the infinite starry heavens in it, while the +onlooking rocks and trees, tiny shrubs and daisies and sedges, brought +forward in the fire-glow, seem full of thought as if about to speak +aloud and tell all their wild stories. A marvelously impressive meeting +in which every one has something worth while to tell. And beyond the +fire-beams out in the solemn darkness, how impressive is the music of a +choir of rills singing their way down from the snow to the river! And +when we call to mind that thousands of these rejoicing rills are +assembled in each one of the main streams, we wonder the less that our +Sierra rivers are songful all the way to the sea. + +About sundown saw a flock of dun grayish sparrows going to roost in +crevices of a crag above the big snow-field. Charming little +mountaineers! Found a species of sedge in flower within eight or ten +feet of a snow-bank. Judging by the looks of the ground, it can hardly +have been out in the sunshine much longer than a week, and it is likely +to be buried again in fresh snow in a month or so, thus making a winter +about ten months long, while spring, summer, and autumn are crowded and +hurried into two months. How delightful it is to be alone here! How wild +everything is--wild as the sky and as pure! Never shall I forget this +big, divine day--the Cathedral and its thousands of cassiope bells, and +the landscapes around them, and this camp in the gray crags above the +woods, with its stars and streams and snow. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF UPPER TUOLUMNE VALLEY, with arrow pointing to Mt +Ritter] + +_September 8._ Day of climbing, scrambling, sliding on the peaks around +the highest source of the Tuolumne and Merced. Climbed three of the most +commanding of the mountains, whose names I don't know; crossed streams +and huge beds of ice and snow more than I could keep count of. Neither +could I keep count of the lakes scattered on tablelands and in the +cirques of the peaks, and in chains in the cañons, linked together by +the streams--a tremendously wild gray wilderness of hacked, shattered +crags, ridges, and peaks, a few clouds drifting over and through the +midst of them as if looking for work. In general views all the immense +round landscape seems raw and lifeless as a quarry, yet the most +charming flowers were found rejoicing in countless nooks and garden-like +patches everywhere. I must have done three or four days' climbing work +in this one. Limbs perfectly tireless until near sundown, when I +descended into the main upper Tuolumne valley at the foot of Mount +Lyell, the camp still eight or ten miles distant. Going up through the +pine woods past the Soda Springs Dome in the dark, where there is much +fallen timber, and when all the excitement of seeing things was wanting, +I was tired. Arrived at the main camp at nine o'clock, and soon was +sleeping sound as death. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +BACK TO THE LOWLANDS + + +_September 9._ Weariness rested away and I feel eager and ready for +another excursion a month or two long in the same wonderful wilderness. +Now, however, I must turn toward the lowlands, praying and hoping Heaven +will shove me back again. + +The most telling thing learned in these mountain excursions is the +influence of cleavage joints on the features sculptured from the general +mass of the range. Evidently the denudation has been enormous, while the +inevitable outcome is subtle balanced beauty. Comprehended in general +views, the features of the wildest landscape seem to be as harmoniously +related as the features of a human face. Indeed, they look human and +radiate spiritual beauty, divine thought, however covered and concealed +by rock and snow. + +Mr. Delaney has hardly had time to ask me how I enjoyed my trip, though +he has facilitated and encouraged my plans all summer, and declares I'll +be famous some day, a kind guess that seems strange and incredible to a +wandering wilderness-lover with never a thought or dream of fame while +humbly trying to trace and learn and enjoy Nature's lessons. + +The camp stuff is now packed on the horses, and the flock is headed for +the home ranch. Away we go, down through the pines, leaving the lovely +lawn where we have camped so long. I wonder if I'll ever see it again. +The sod is so tough and close it is scarcely at all injured by the +sheep. Fortunately they are not fond of silky glacier meadow grass. The +day is perfectly clear, not a cloud or the faintest hint of a cloud is +visible, and there is no wind. I wonder if in all the world, at a height +of nine thousand feet, weather so steadily, faithfully calm and bright +and hospitable may anywhere else be found. We are going away fearing +destructive storms, though it is difficult to conceive weather changes +so great. + +Though the water is now low in the river, the usual difficulty occurred +in getting the flock across it. Every sheep seemed to be invincibly +determined to die any sort of dry death rather than wet its feet. Carlo +has learned the sheep business as perfectly as the best shepherd, and it +is interesting to watch his intelligent efforts to push or frighten the +silly creatures into the water. They had to be fairly crowded and shoved +over the bank; and when at last one crossed because it could not push +its way back, the whole flock suddenly plunged in headlong together, as +if the river was the only desirable part of the world. Aside from mere +money profit one would rather herd wolves than sheep. As soon as they +clambered up the opposite bank, they began baaing and feeding as if +nothing unusual had happened. We crossed the meadows and drove slowly up +the south rim of the valley through the same woods I had passed on my +way to Cathedral Peak, and camped for the night by the side of a small +pond on top of the big lateral moraine. + +_September 10._ In the morning at daybreak not one of the two thousand +sheep was in sight. Examining the tracks, we discovered that they had +been scattered, perhaps by a bear. In a few hours all were found and +gathered into one flock again. Had fine view of a deer. How graceful and +perfect in every way it seemed as compared with the silly, dusty, +tousled sheep! From the high ground hereabouts had another grand view to +the northward--a heaving, swelling sea of domes and round-backed ridges +fringed with pines, and bounded by innumerable sharp-pointed peaks, gray +and barren-looking, though so full of beautiful life. Another day of the +calm, cloudless kind, purple in the morning and evening. The evening +glow has been very marked for the last two or three weeks. Perhaps the +"zodiacal light." + +_September 11._ Cloudless. Slight frost. Calm. Fairly started downhill, +and now are camped at the west end meadows of Lake Tenaya--a charming +place. Lake smooth as glass, mirroring its miles of glacier-polished +pavements and bold mountain walls. Find aster still in flower. Here is +about the upper limit of the dwarf form of the goldcup oak,--eight +thousand feet above sea-level,--reaching about two thousand feet higher +than the California black oak (_Quercus Californica_). Lovely evening, +the lake reflections after dark marvelously impressive. + +_September 12._ Cloudless day, all pure sun-gold. Among the magnificent +silver firs once more, within two miles of the brink of Yosemite, at the +famous Portuguese bear camp. Chaparral of goldcup oak, manzanita, and +ceanothus abundant hereabouts, wanting about the Tuolumne meadows, +although the elevation is but little higher there. The two-leaved pine, +though far more abundant about the Tuolumne meadow region, reaches its +greatest size on stream-sides hereabouts and around meadows that are +rather boggy. All the best dry ground is taken by the magnificent silver +fir, which here reaches its greatest size and forms a well-defined +belt. A glorious tree. Have fine bed of its boughs to-night. + +_September 13._ Camp this evening at Yosemite Creek, close to the +stream, on a little sand flat near our old camp-ground. The vegetation +is already brown and yellow and dry; the creek almost dry also. The +slender form of the two-leaved pine on its banks is, I think, the +handsomest I have anywhere seen. It might easily pass at first sight for +a distinct species, though surely only a variety (_Murrayana_), due to +crowded and rapid growth on good soil. The yellow pine is as variable, +or perhaps more so. The form here and a thousand feet higher, on +crumbling rocks, is broad branching, with closely furrowed, reddish +bark, large cones, and long leaves. It is one of the hardiest of pines, +and has wonderful vitality. The tassels of long, stout needles shining +silvery in the sun, when the wind is blowing them all in the same +direction, is one of the most splendid spectacles these glorious Sierra +forests have to show. This variety of _Pinus ponderosa_ is regarded as a +distinct species, _Pinus Jeffreyi_, by some botanists. The basin of this +famous Yosemite stream is extremely rocky,--seems fairly to be paved +with domes like a street with big cobblestones. I wonder if I shall ever +be allowed to explore it. It draws me so strongly, I would make any +sacrifice to try to read its lessons. I thank God for this glimpse of +it. The charms of these mountains are beyond all common reason, +unexplainable and mysterious as life itself. + +_September 14._ Nearly all day in magnificent fir forest, the top +branches laden with superb erect gray cones shining with beads of pure +balsam. The squirrels are cutting them off at a great rate. Bump, bump, +I hear them falling, soon to be gathered and stored for winter bread. +Those that chance to be left by the industrious harvesters drop the +scales and bracts when fully ripe, and it is fine to see the +purple-winged seeds flying in swirling, merry-looking flocks seeking +their fortunes. The bole and dead limbs of nearly every tree in the main +forest-belt are ornamented by conspicuous tufts and strips of a yellow +lichen. + +Camped for the night at Cascade Creek, near the Mono Trail crossing. +Manzanita berries now ripe. Cloudiness to-day about .10. The sunset very +rich, flaming purple and crimson showing gloriously through the aisles +of the woods. + +_September 15._ The weather pure gold, cloudiness about .05, white +cirrus flects and pencilings around the horizon. Move two or three miles +and camp at Tamarack Flat. Wandering in the woods here back of the pines +which bound the meadows, I found very noble specimens of the +magnificent silver fir, the tallest about two hundred and forty feet +high and five feet in diameter four feet from the ground. + +_September 16._ Crawled slowly four or five miles to-day through the +glorious forest to Crane Flat, where we are camped for the night. The +forests we so admired in summer seem still more beautiful and sublime in +this mellow autumn light. Lovely starry night, the tall, spiring +tree-tops relieved in jet black against the sky. I linger by the fire, +loath to go to bed. + +_September 17._ Left camp early. Ran over the Tuolumne divide and down a +few miles to a grove of sequoias that I had heard of, directed by the +Don. They occupy an area of perhaps less than a hundred acres. Some of +the trees are noble, colossal old giants, surrounded by magnificent +sugar pines and Douglas spruces. The perfect specimens not burned or +broken are singularly regular and symmetrical, though not at all +conventional, showing infinite variety in general unity and harmony; the +noble shafts with rich purplish brown fluted bark, free of limbs for one +hundred and fifty feet or so, ornamented here and there with leafy +rosettes; main branches of the oldest trees very large, crooked and +rugged, zigzagging stiffly outward seemingly lawless, yet unexpectedly +stooping just at the right distance from the trunk and dissolving in +dense bossy masses of branchlets, thus making a regular though greatly +varied outline,--a cylinder of leafy, outbulging spray masses, +terminating in a noble dome, that may be recognized while yet far off +upheaved against the sky above the dark bed of pines and firs and +spruces, the king of all conifers, not only in size but in sublime +majesty of behavior and port. I found a black, charred stump about +thirty feet in diameter and eighty or ninety feet high--a venerable, +impressive old monument of a tree that in its prime may have been the +monarch of the grove; seedlings and saplings growing up here and there, +thrifty and hopeful, giving no hint of the dying out of the species. Not +any unfavorable change of climate, but only fire, threatens the +existence of these noblest of God's trees. Sorry I was not able to get a +count of the old monument's annual rings. + +Camp this evening at Hazel Green, on the broad back of the dividing +ridge near our old camp-ground when we were on the way up the mountains +in the spring. This ridge has the finest sugar-pine groves and finest +manzanita and ceanothus thickets I have yet found on all this wonderful +summer journey. + +_September 18._ Made a long descent on the south side of the divide to +Brown's Flat, the grand forests now left above us, though the sugar pine +still flourishes fairly well, and with the yellow pine, libocedrus, and +Douglas spruce, makes forests that would be considered most wonderful in +any other part of the world. + +The Indians here, with great concern, pointed to an old garden patch on +the flat and told us to keep away from it. Perhaps some of their tribe +are buried here. + +_September 19._ Camped this evening at Smith's Mill, on the first broad +mountain bench or plateau reached in ascending the range, where pines +grow large enough for good lumber. Here wheat, apples, peaches, and +grapes grow, and we were treated to wine and apples. The wine I didn't +like, but Mr. Delaney and the Indian driver and the shepherd seemed to +think the stuff divine. Compared to sparkling Sierra water fresh from +the heavens, it seemed a dull, muddy, stupid drink. But the apples, best +of fruits, how delicious they were--fit for gods or men. + +On the way down from Brown's Flat we stopped at Bower Cave, and I spent +an hour in it--one of the most novel and interesting of all Nature's +underground mansions. Plenty of sunlight pours into it through the +leaves of the four maple trees growing in its mouth, illuminating its +clear, calm pool and marble chambers,--a charming place, ravishingly +beautiful, but the accessible parts of the walls sadly disfigured with +names of vandals. + +_September 20._ The weather still golden and calm, but hot. We are now +in the foot-hills, and all the conifers are left behind, except the gray +Sabine pine. Camped at the Dutch Boy's Ranch, where there are extensive +barley fields now showing nothing save dusty stubble. + +_September 21._ A terribly hot, dusty, sunburned day, and as nothing was +to be gained by loitering where the flock could find nothing to eat save +thorny twigs and chaparral, we made a long drive, and before sundown +reached the home ranch on the yellow San Joaquin plain. + +_September 22._ The sheep were let out of the corral one by one, this +morning, and counted, and strange to say, after all their adventurous +wanderings in bewildering rocks and brush and streams, scattered by +bears, poisoned by azalea, kalmia, alkali, all are accounted for. Of the +two thousand and fifty that left the corral in the spring lean and weak, +two thousand and twenty-five have returned fat and strong. The losses +are: ten killed by bears, one by a rattlesnake, one that had to be +killed after it had broken its leg on a boulder slope, and one that ran +away in blind terror on being accidentally separated from the +flock,--thirteen all told. Of the other twelve doomed never to return, +three were sold to ranchmen and nine were made camp mutton. + +Here ends my forever memorable first High Sierra excursion. I have +crossed the Range of Light, surely the brightest and best of all the +Lord has built; and rejoicing in its glory, I gladly, gratefully, +hopefully pray I may see it again. + + +THE END + + + + +INDEX + + + _Abies concolor_ and _magnifica_. _See_ Fir, silver. + + Abronia, 228. + + _Adenostoma fasciculata_, 14, 19, 20. + + _Adiantum Chilense_, 17. + + Alpenglow, 220. + + Alvord, Gen. Benjamin, 183, 185, 186. + + Animals, domestic, afraid of bears, 107, 108. + + Animals, wild, in the Merced Valley, 43; + clean, 18, 79; + man-eaters, 211, 212. + + Antone, Portuguese shepherd, 209, 210. + + Ants, 8, 43-47; + bite of, 46. + + _Arctomys monax_. _See_ Woodchuck. + + _Arctostaphylos pungens_. _See_ Manzanita. + + Avalanches, 216, 217. + + Azalea, "sheep poison," 22. + + _Azalea occidentalis_, 20. + + + Baccharis, 20. + + Beans, as food, 81. + + Bear, cinnamon, adventure with, 134-37. + + Bear-hunting, 28-30. + + Bears, favorite feeding-grounds of, 28, 29; + fond of ants, 46; + fear of, 107, 108; + very shy in Sierra, 108; + raid sheep camps, 191, 192, 194, 207, 209, 210, 211. + + Billy, Mr. Delaney's shepherd, 6, 61, 62, 75, 80, 146, 147; + his everlasting clothing, 129, 130; + afraid of bears, 191, 193; + quarrels with Mr. Delaney, 205. + + Birds, 68, 96; + in the Merced Valley, 50, 65-67; + water ouzel, 106, 107, 223; + wrens, 170; + on Mount Hoffman, 173-77; + sparrows on Cathedral Peak, 251. + + Bloody Cañon, 214; + origin of name, 215. + + Bluebottle fly, 139. + + Borer, 169. + + Boulders, in streams, 47-49; + near Tamarack Creek, 100, 101. + + Bower Cascade, 224. + + Bower Cave, a marble palace, 25, 26, 262, 263. + + Bread, famine, 75-85; + effects of the want of, 76, 77; + sheep-camp, 82, 83. + + Brodiæa, 20. + + Brown, David, bear-hunter, 27-30. + + Brown's Flat, 25, 27, 262. + + Bryanthus, purple-flowered, 151, 161, 218. + + Buffalo berries, 226. + + Butler, Henry, 189, 190. + + Butler, Prof. J. D., strange experience of Muir with, 178-91. + + Butterflies, 160. + + + _Calochortus albus_, 17. + + Camping, in the foothills, 10, 11; + on the North Fork of the Merced, 32-74; + at Tamarack Flat, 99; + in the Yosemite, 122; + near Soda Springs, 201, 229; + alone, in Bloody Cañon, 220-22; + on the Tuolumne, 232-53. + + Cañon Creek, 223. + + Carlo, St. Bernard dog, with Muir in the Sierra, 5, 6, 43, 57, + 59, 60, 62, 123, 124, 154, 181, 192, 193; + afraid of bears, 116, 135; + runs away, 232, 233, 255. + + Cascade Creek, 104, 259. + + Cassiope, 244, 250. + + Cathedral Peak, 154, 212, 231, 247, 250; + well named, 146; + a majestic temple, 198; + view from, 248; + height, 249. + + Cedar, incense (_Libocedrus decurrens_), 20, 21, 93. + + _Chamæbatia foliolosa_, 33, 34. + + Chinaman, shepherd's helper, 6, 9. + + Chipmunk, in the Sierra, 171, 172. + + Cleavage joints, 254. + + Clouds, 56, 73, 147, 148, 242, 243; + sky mountains, 18, 19, 37, 39, 61, 133, 144, 145. + + Coffee, 82. + + _Corylus rostrata_, 65. + + Coulterville, 9, 17, 19. + + Crane Flat, 90, 92, 93, 260. + + Crows, 9, 248. + + Crystals, radiant, 153, 250; + frost, 234, 236. + + + Daisy, blue arctic, 218. + + Deer, black-tailed, 142. + + Delaney, Mr., sheep-owner, 6, 12, 25, 27, 36, 83, 103, 104, 112-14, + 194, 206, 233, 238, 246, 254, 262; + engages Muir to go with his flock to the Sierra, 4, 5; + describes David Brown's method of bear-hunting, 28-30; + talks of bears in general, 107, 108; + a big-hearted Irishman, 214. + + _Dendromecon rigidum_, 39. + + Devil's slides, 150. + + Dogwood, Nuttall's flowering, 64. + + Dome Creek, 121. + + Don Quixote, nickname for Mr. Delaney, 6, 12. + + + Elymus (wild rye), 226. + + Emerald Pool, 189. + + Eskimo, 69. + + + Fawn, baby, 232. + + Ferns, 40, 41. + + Fir, silver, 90-93, 98, 105, 257; + cones, 91, 167, 168, 259; + size, 143, 161, 162, 166, 260; + age, 166, 167; + leaves, 167. + + Fire, in woods, 19, 202, 203. + + Fishes, none in high Sierra lakes, 200. + + Flicker, 173. + + Floods, 48. + + Flowers, in Merced Valley, 33, 35, 36, 40, 58; + at Crane Flat, 92, 93, 94; + on Yosemite Creek, 109, 110; + on Hoffman Range, 151, 152, 158, 160, 196; + in Tuolumne Meadows, 199, 203; + in Bloody Cañon, 218, 224, 225, 228, 230. + + Flowing, everything is, 236. + + Food, of bears, 28, 29, 46, 192; + of squirrels, 18, 69, 74, 168; + of Indians, 12, 46, 70, 226-28. + + Foothills, 3-31. + + Frogs, in the highest lakes, 200. + + Frost, crystals, 234, 236. + + + Gallflies, 170. + + Glacial action, 101, 102, 196, 197, 200, 202, 203, 205, 208, 215, + 216, 224, 240, 248. + + Glacier meadows, 229, 230. + + Gold region, 55, 56; + mines near Mono Lake, 105. + + Grasshopper, a queer fellow, 139-41. + + Greeley's Mill, 17, 20. + + Grouse, blue or dusky, 175, 176. + + + Half-Dome, _or_ South Dome, 117, 122, 129. + + Hare, 9. + + Hare, little chief, 154, 155. + + Hazel, beaked, 65. + + Hazel Creek, 89. + + Hazel Green, 87, 261. + + Heat, in the foothills, 8. + + Hemlock, mountain (_Tsuga Mertensiana_), 151, 247. + + Hogs, 108. + + Horseshoe Bend, 13, 19. + + House-fly, on North Dome, 138, 139; + on Mount Hoffman, 169. + + Hutchings, Mrs., landlady, 182. + + + Illilouette, 189. + + Indian Basin, 121. + + Indian Cañon, 115, 122, 181, 186, 187. + + Indian Creek, 208. + + Indians, Digger, 12, 30, 31, 262; + shepherd's helper with Muir, 6, 9, 10, 86, 90; + anteaters, 46; + their power of escaping observation, 53, 54, 58; + an old woman, 58, 59; + Chief Tenaya, 165; + a hunter, 205, 206; + food, 206, 226, 227; + a dirty band, 218, 219; + women gathering wild rye, 226. + + Ivy, poison, 26. + + + Jack, the shepherd's little dog, 62, 63. + + Joe, Portuguese shepherd, 209, 210. + + Juniper, Sierra (_Juniperus occidentalis_), 110, 163-65. + + + Lake Hoffman, 154. + + Lake Tenaya, 153, 155, 165, 195-97, 257; + Indian name, 166. + + Landscape, sculpture of, 14; + a glorious, 115, 116; + features harmonious, 240, 254. + + Liberty Cap, 183. + + _Libocedrus decurrens_. _See_ Cedar, incense. + + Lichens, 259. + + Lightning, 15, 124, 125. + + Lilies, 36, 37, 59, 60, 225. + + _Lilium pardalinum_, 37. + + _Lilium parvum_, 94, 95, 121. + + Lily, twining, 50; + on poison ivy, 26. + + Lily, Washington, 103. + + Linosyris, 20. + + Lizards, 8, 41-43, 65. + + + Magpies, 9. + + Mammoth Mountain, 216, 242. + + Manzanita (_Arctostaphylos_), 88, 89; + berries, 259. + + Meadows, three kinds of, 158, 159; + glacier, 229, 230. + + Merced River, 189; + North Fork of, 25; + camp on, 32-74. + + Merced Valley, 13, 115. + + Mono Desert, 226. + + Mono Lake, 214, 226, 239; + flowers around, 228. + + Mono Trail, 104, 109, 115, 195-213. + + Moon, startling effect of, 221, 222. + + Moraine Lake, 224, 225. + + Moraines, 102, 216, 224, 240, 248. + + Mosquitoes, Sierra, 169. + + Mount Dana, 199, 230, 233, 234, 239, 242. + + Mount Gibbs, 199, 242. + + Mount Hoffman, 230; + height of, 149; + watershed, 150; + flowers, 151, 152, 158, 160; + hemlocks and pines, 151, 152; + crystals, 153; + strange dove-colored bird, 176. + + Mount Lyell, 198, 253. + + Mutton, exclusive diet of, 76. + + + _Neotoma_, 71-73. + + Nevada Cañon, 182. + + Nevada Fall, 187, 188, 207. + + North Dome, 131, 134; + strange experience on, 178, 179. + + + Oak, blue (_Quercus Douglasii_), 8, 15. + + Oak, California black (_Quercus Californica_), 15, 257. + + Oak, dwarf (_Quercus chrysolepis_), 161. + + Oak, goldcup, 50, 187, 257. + + Oak, mountain live, 38. + + Oak, poison, 26. + + _Oreortyx ricta_, 174, 175. + + + Pictures, inadequate, 131. + + Pika, 154, 155. + + Pilot Peak Ridge, 32, 57, 65, 67, 84. + + Pine, dwarf (_Pinus albicaulis_), 152, 248; + as fuel, 221. + + Pine, mountain (_Pinus monticola_), 152. + + Pine, Sabine, 12, 13, 263; + cones, 12. + + Pine, silver, 52. + + Pine, sugar, 17, 18, 51, 88, 90, 93; + cones, 50. + + Pine, two-leaved or tamarack, 99, 110, 162, 163, 257, 258. + + Pine, yellow, 15, 51, 52, 88, 93, 258; + cones, 17, 18. + + Pino Blanco, 13. + + Poppy, bush (_Dendromecon rigidum_), 39. + + Porcupine Creek, 121, 206. + + Portuguese shepherds, 206, 207, 208-10. + + _Pseudotsuga Douglasii_, 93. + + _Pteris aquilina_, 40, 41. + + + Quail, mountain (_Oreortyx ricta_), 174, 175. + + Quails, 9. + + _Quercus Californica_, 15, 257. + + _Quercus chrysolepis_, 161. + + _Quercus Douglasii_, 8, 15. + + + Rabbits, cottontail, 9, 227. + + Raindrop, history of, 125-27. + + Range of Light, 236, 264. + + Rat, wood (_Neotoma_), 71-73. + + Rattlesnakes, 9; + dog bitten by one, 63. + + _Rhus diversiloba_. _See_ Ivy, poison. + + Robin, 173, 174, 218. + + Rye, wild, 226. + + + Sandy, David Brown's dog, 27, 28, 30. + + Saxifrage, giant (_Saxifraga peltata_), 35. + + Sedge, 34, 35. + + Seeds, 68. + + _Sequoia gigantea_, 93; + grove of, 260, 261. + + Shadows, of leaves, 59; + substantial looking, 233. + + Sheep, Mr. Delaney's flock, 5, 8, 9, 11, 61, 64, 86, 87, 256, + 263, 264; + rate of travel, 7; + camping, 10; + poisoned by azalea, 22; + profitable, 22; + hoofed locusts, 56, 86; + stray, 57; + destructiveness of, 97, 195; + crossing a creek, 111-14; + have poor brain stuff, 114; + raided by bears, 191, 192, 194; + afraid of getting wet, 201, 202, 255. + + Shepherd, degrading life of the Californian, 23; + in Scotland, 24; + the oriental, 24; + bed and food, 80, 81. + + Slate, metamorphic, 6, 8, 14, 34. + + Smith's Mill, 262. + + Soda Springs, 201, 229, 253. + + South Dome, 122, 129. + + Sparrows, 251. + + Spiders, 53. + + Spruce, Douglas, 93. + + Squirrel, California gray, 69, 70. + + Squirrel, Douglas, 18, 68-70, 96, 168. + + _Stropholirion Californicum_. _See_ Lily, twining. + + Sunrise, in the Yosemite, 124. + + Sunset, 53. + + + Tamarack Creek, 100, 102, 106. + + Tamarack Flat, 90, 259. + + Tea, 80, 82. + + Telepathy, strange case of, 178-91. + + Tenaya, Yosemite chief, 165. + + Tenaya Creek, 156. + + Three Brothers, 207. + + Thunder, in the mountains, 122, 123, 125. + + Tissiack. _See_ Half-Dome. + + Tourists, 98, 104, 190. + + Trees and storm, 144. + + Tuolumne Camp, 232-53. + + Tuolumne Meadows, 198, 199. + + + Vaccinium, dwarf, 218. + + _Veratrum Californicum_, 93, 94. + + Vernal Fall, 182, 183, 187, 188, 207. + + Volcanic cones, 228. + + + Water, music of, 21, 49, 97, 106. + + Waterfalls, 34, 36, 47, 106, 118-20, 132, 187, 188, 223, 224. + + Water ouzel, 106, 107, 223. + + Waycup, 173. + + Weather, in the mountains, 36, 39, 56, 61, 67, 73, 235, 237, + 241, 245. + + Willow, dwarf, 217. + + Wind, at night, 21, 220. + + Woodchuck (_Arctomys monax_), 154, 172, 173. + + Wrens, story of a pair, 170. + + + Yosemite Creek, 104, 107, 109, 118, 150, 154, 258. + + Yosemite Valley, 102, 104, 106, 107, 115-48, 187; + a nerve-trying experience in, 118-20; + sunrise in, 124; + thunder storm, 124, 125; + grandeur, 132, 133, 190. + + + Zodiacal light, 257. diff --git a/doc/conf.py b/doc/conf.py new file mode 100644 index 0000000..32592b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/conf.py @@ -0,0 +1,169 @@ +#!/usr/bin/env python3 +# -*- coding: utf-8 -*- +# +# WordCount documentation build configuration file, created by +# sphinx-quickstart on Fri Jun 8 14:27:52 2018. +# +# This file is execfile()d with the current directory set to its +# containing dir. +# +# Note that not all possible configuration values are present in this +# autogenerated file. +# +# All configuration values have a default; values that are commented out +# serve to show the default. + +# If extensions (or modules to document with autodoc) are in another directory, +# add these directories to sys.path here. If the directory is relative to the +# documentation root, use os.path.abspath to make it absolute, like shown here. +# +import os +import sys +sys.path.insert(0, os.path.abspath('../source')) + + +# -- General configuration ------------------------------------------------ + +# If your documentation needs a minimal Sphinx version, state it here. +# +# needs_sphinx = '1.0' + +# Add any Sphinx extension module names here, as strings. They can be +# extensions coming with Sphinx (named 'sphinx.ext.*') or your custom +# ones. +extensions = ['sphinx.ext.autodoc'] + +# Add any paths that contain templates here, relative to this directory. +templates_path = ['_templates'] + +# The suffix(es) of source filenames. +# You can specify multiple suffix as a list of string: +# +# source_suffix = ['.rst', '.md'] +source_suffix = '.rst' + +# The master toctree document. +master_doc = 'index' + +# General information about the project. +project = 'WordCount' +copyright = '2018, Harsha' +author = 'Harsha' + +# The version info for the project you're documenting, acts as replacement for +# |version| and |release|, also used in various other places throughout the +# built documents. +# +# The short X.Y version. +version = '0.1' +# The full version, including alpha/beta/rc tags. +release = '0.1' + +# The language for content autogenerated by Sphinx. Refer to documentation +# for a list of supported languages. +# +# This is also used if you do content translation via gettext catalogs. +# Usually you set "language" from the command line for these cases. +language = None + +# List of patterns, relative to source directory, that match files and +# directories to ignore when looking for source files. +# This patterns also effect to html_static_path and html_extra_path +exclude_patterns = ['_build', 'Thumbs.db', '.DS_Store'] + +# The name of the Pygments (syntax highlighting) style to use. +pygments_style = 'sphinx' + +# If true, `todo` and `todoList` produce output, else they produce nothing. +todo_include_todos = False + + +# -- Options for HTML output ---------------------------------------------- + +# The theme to use for HTML and HTML Help pages. See the documentation for +# a list of builtin themes. +# +html_theme = 'sphinx_rtd_theme' + +# Theme options are theme-specific and customize the look and feel of a theme +# further. For a list of options available for each theme, see the +# documentation. +# +# html_theme_options = {} + +# Add any paths that contain custom static files (such as style sheets) here, +# relative to this directory. They are copied after the builtin static files, +# so a file named "default.css" will overwrite the builtin "default.css". +html_static_path = [] + +# Custom sidebar templates, must be a dictionary that maps document names +# to template names. +# +# This is required for the alabaster theme +# refs: http://alabaster.readthedocs.io/en/latest/installation.html#sidebars +html_sidebars = { + '**': [ + 'relations.html', # needs 'show_related': True theme option to display + 'searchbox.html', + ] +} + + +# -- Options for HTMLHelp output ------------------------------------------ + +# Output file base name for HTML help builder. +htmlhelp_basename = 'WordCountdoc' + + +# -- Options for LaTeX output --------------------------------------------- + +latex_elements = { + # The paper size ('letterpaper' or 'a4paper'). + # + # 'papersize': 'letterpaper', + + # The font size ('10pt', '11pt' or '12pt'). + # + # 'pointsize': '10pt', + + # Additional stuff for the LaTeX preamble. + # + # 'preamble': '', + + # Latex figure (float) alignment + # + # 'figure_align': 'htbp', +} + +# Grouping the document tree into LaTeX files. List of tuples +# (source start file, target name, title, +# author, documentclass [howto, manual, or own class]). +latex_documents = [ + (master_doc, 'WordCount.tex', 'WordCount Documentation', + 'Harsha', 'manual'), +] + + +# -- Options for manual page output --------------------------------------- + +# One entry per manual page. List of tuples +# (source start file, name, description, authors, manual section). +man_pages = [ + (master_doc, 'wordcount', 'WordCount Documentation', + [author], 1) +] + + +# -- Options for Texinfo output ------------------------------------------- + +# Grouping the document tree into Texinfo files. List of tuples +# (source start file, target name, title, author, +# dir menu entry, description, category) +texinfo_documents = [ + (master_doc, 'WordCount', 'WordCount Documentation', + author, 'WordCount', 'One line description of project.', + 'Miscellaneous'), +] + + + diff --git a/doc/credit.rst b/doc/credit.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..64397a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/credit.rst @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ + + +Credit and inspiration +====================== + +Inspired by and derived from https://hpc-carpentry.github.io/hpc-python/ +which is distributed under CC-BY 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). diff --git a/doc/dependencies.rst b/doc/dependencies.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..40784fc --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/dependencies.rst @@ -0,0 +1,18 @@ + + +Dependencies +============ + +Required +-------- + +- Python +- Numpy +- Matplotlib +- Make or Snakemake + + +Optional +-------- + +- Docker diff --git a/doc/exercises.rst b/doc/exercises.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..45c163b --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/exercises.rst @@ -0,0 +1,49 @@ + + +Exercises (documentation lesson) +================================ + +Before you start +---------------- + +- Discuss the exercise idea with the classroom. +- Distribute exercises among groups of 2-3 persons. +- Open a GitHub issue and inform the community about the problem and how you + plan to solve it. Discuss why we do this. +- Fork this project. +- Commit to your fork. In your commit message auto-close the issue you have addressed. +- Submit a pull request. +- We then review the pull requests. +- After the pull requests are merged we verify that documentation updates itself. + + +Basic +----- + +- Document the purpose of this example code. +- Document how to clone the code. +- Describe the project tree structure. +- Write a sentence or two about Zipf's law and link to Wikipedia + (coordinate with the group working on the previous exercise). +- Document how to check the code style with ``pycodestyle``. +- Give other developers hints on how they can contribute to the documentation. +- Document how to build the documentation locally + (coordinate with the group working on the previous exercise). +- Add an example output. +- Add an example plot + (coordinate with the group working on the previous exercise). +- Document where/how to ask for help. +- Add a math equation somewhere. + + +Advanced +-------- + +- Add a test and document how to run it. +- Add the possibility to auto-document Python code. + + +Meta +---- + +- Add new exercises ideas for future workshops (edit this file). diff --git a/doc/index.rst b/doc/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..484d26c --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ +.. this is a comment, it is not rendered + when adding new *.rst files, reference them here + in this index.rst for them to be rendered and added to the + table of contents + + +word-count +========== + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + + purpose.rst + dependencies.rst + usage.rst + credit.rst + exercises.rst diff --git a/doc/purpose.rst b/doc/purpose.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d96a066 --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/purpose.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ + + +Purpose +======= + +Write me ... + + +Zipf's law +---------- + +Write me ... diff --git a/doc/usage.rst b/doc/usage.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..90617ca --- /dev/null +++ b/doc/usage.rst @@ -0,0 +1,32 @@ + + +Usage +===== + + +How to clone the code +--------------------- + +Write me ... + + +Make +---- + +Generate all results: + +:: + + $ make + + +Snakemake +--------- + +Write me ... + + +Where to find the results +------------------------- + +Write me ... diff --git a/environment.yml b/environment.yml new file mode 100644 index 0000000..624ed38 --- /dev/null +++ b/environment.yml @@ -0,0 +1,22 @@ +name: coderefinery +channels: + - conda-forge + - defaults + - bioconda +dependencies: + - python>3.7 + - click=7.1.2 + - ipywidgets=7.6.3 + - jupyterlab=3.0.14 + - jupyterlab-git=0.30.0 + - matplotlib=3.4.1 + - numpy=1.20.2 + - pandas=1.2.4 + - pytest=6.2.3 + - seaborn=0.11.1 + - snakemake-minimal=6.2.1 + - sphinx=3.5.4 + - sphinx_rtd_theme=0.5.2 + - pip +# - pip: +# - jupyterlab-github==2.0.0 diff --git a/manuscript/.gitkeep b/manuscript/.gitkeep new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e69de29 diff --git a/matplotlibrc b/matplotlibrc new file mode 100644 index 0000000..864fe23 --- /dev/null +++ b/matplotlibrc @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +# This is a fix so that Matplotlib can create plots +# non-interactively on a cluster. + +backend: Agg diff --git a/processed_data/.gitkeep b/processed_data/.gitkeep new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e69de29 diff --git a/results/.gitkeep b/results/.gitkeep new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e69de29 diff --git a/source/plotcount.py b/source/plotcount.py new file mode 100644 index 0000000..268de5b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/plotcount.py @@ -0,0 +1,33 @@ +import numpy as np +import matplotlib.pyplot as plt +import sys + +from wordcount import load_word_counts + + +def plot_word_counts(counts, limit=10): + """ + Given a list of (word, count, percentage) tuples, plot the counts as a + histogram. Only the first limit tuples are plotted. + """ + plt.title("Word Counts") + limited_counts = counts[0:limit] + word_data = [word for (word, _, _) in limited_counts] + count_data = [count for (_, count, _) in limited_counts] + position = np.arange(len(word_data)) + width = 1.0 + ax = plt.gca() + ax.set_xticks(position + (width / 2)) + ax.set_xticklabels(word_data) + plt.bar(position, count_data, width, color='b') + + +if __name__ == '__main__': + input_file = sys.argv[1] + output_file = sys.argv[2] + limit = 10 + if len(sys.argv) > 3: + limit = int(sys.argv[3]) + counts = load_word_counts(input_file) + plot_word_counts(counts, limit) + plt.savefig(output_file) diff --git a/source/wordcount.py b/source/wordcount.py new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1d0aab --- /dev/null +++ b/source/wordcount.py @@ -0,0 +1,130 @@ +import sys + +DELIMITERS = ". , ; : ? $ @ ^ < > # % ` ! * - = ( ) [ ] { } / \" '".split() + + +def load_text(filename): + """ + Load lines from a plain-text file and return these as a list, with + trailing newlines stripped. + """ + with open(filename, "r") as input_fd: + lines = input_fd.read().splitlines() + return lines + + +def save_word_counts(filename, counts): + """ + Save a list of [word, count, percentage] lists to a file, in the form + "word count percentage", one tuple per line. + """ + with open(filename, 'w') as output: + for count in counts: + output.write("%s\n" % " ".join(str(c) for c in count)) + + +def load_word_counts(filename): + """ + Load a list of (word, count, percentage) tuples from a file where each + line is of the form "word count percentage". Lines starting with # are + ignored. + """ + counts = [] + with open(filename, "r") as input_fd: + for line in input_fd: + if not line.startswith("#"): + fields = line.split() + counts.append((fields[0], int(fields[1]), float(fields[2]))) + return counts + + +def update_word_counts(line, counts): + """ + Given a string, parse the string and update a dictionary of word + counts (mapping words to counts of their frequencies). DELIMITERS are + removed before the string is parsed. The function is case-insensitive + and words in the dictionary are in lower-case. + """ + for purge in DELIMITERS: + line = line.replace(purge, " ") + words = line.split() + for word in words: + word = word.lower().strip() + if word in counts: + counts[word] += 1 + else: + counts[word] = 1 + + +def calculate_word_counts(lines): + """ + Given a list of strings, parse each string and create a dictionary of + word counts (mapping words to counts of their frequencies). DELIMITERS + are removed before the string is parsed. The function is + case-insensitive and words in the dictionary are in lower-case. + """ + counts = {} + for line in lines: + update_word_counts(line, counts) + return counts + + +def word_count_dict_to_tuples(counts, decrease=True): + """ + Given a dictionary of word counts (mapping words to counts of their + frequencies), convert this into an ordered list of tuples (word, + count). The list is ordered by decreasing count, unless increase is + True. + """ + return sorted(list(counts.items()), key=lambda key_value: key_value[1], + reverse=decrease) + + +def filter_word_counts(counts, min_length=1): + """ + Given a list of (word, count) tuples, create a new list with only + those tuples whose word is >= min_length. + """ + stripped = [] + for (word, count) in counts: + if len(word) >= min_length: + stripped.append((word, count)) + return stripped + + +def calculate_percentages(counts): + """ + Given a list of (word, count) tuples, create a new list (word, count, + percentage) where percentage is the percentage number of occurrences + of this word compared to the total number of words. + """ + total = 0 + for count in counts: + total += count[1] + tuples = [(word, count, (float(count) / total) * 100.0) + for (word, count) in counts] + return tuples + + +def word_count(input_file, output_file, min_length=1): + """ + Load a file, calculate the frequencies of each word in the file and + save in a new file the words, counts and percentages of the total in + descending order. Only words whose length is >= min_length are + included. + """ + lines = load_text(input_file) + counts = calculate_word_counts(lines) + sorted_counts = word_count_dict_to_tuples(counts) + sorted_counts = filter_word_counts(sorted_counts, min_length) + percentage_counts = calculate_percentages(sorted_counts) + save_word_counts(output_file, percentage_counts) + + +if __name__ == '__main__': + input_file = sys.argv[1] + output_file = sys.argv[2] + min_length = 1 + if len(sys.argv) > 3: + min_length = int(sys.argv[3]) + word_count(input_file, output_file, min_length) diff --git a/source/zipf_test.py b/source/zipf_test.py new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f84495a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/zipf_test.py @@ -0,0 +1,23 @@ +from wordcount import load_word_counts +import sys + + +def top_two_word(counts): + """ + Given a list of (word, count, percentage) tuples, + return the top two word counts. + """ + limited_counts = counts[0:2] + count_data = [count for (_, count, _) in limited_counts] + return count_data + + +if __name__ == '__main__': + input_files = sys.argv[1:] + print("Book\tFirst\tSecond\tRatio") + for input_file in input_files: + counts = load_word_counts(input_file) + [first, second] = top_two_word(counts) + bookname = input_file[:-4].split("/")[-1] + print("%s\t%i\t%i\t%.2f" % (bookname, first, second, + float(first)/second))