volume-4_1896-1897.xml

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<?xml-model href="http://www.tei-c.org/release/xml/tei/custom/schema/relaxng/tei_all.rng" type="application/xml" schematypens="http://relaxng.org/ns/structure/1.0"?>
<?xml-model href="http://www.tei-c.org/release/xml/tei/custom/schema/relaxng/tei_all.rng" type="application/xml"
	schematypens="http://purl.oclc.org/dsdl/schematron"?>
<TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0">
    <teiHeader>
        <fileDesc>
            <titleStmt>
                <title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
                <author>
                    <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs Emma B. Andrews</persName>
                </author>
                <editor>
                    <persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
                </editor>
                <respStmt>
                    <resp>EBA Interns</resp>
                    <persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
                    <persName ref="#KV">Karena Vongampai</persName>
                    <persName ref="#AL">Amanda Li</persName>
                    <persName ref="#NS">Nitya Sampath</persName>
                </respStmt>
            </titleStmt>
            <publicationStmt>
                <publisher>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</publisher>
                <address>
                    <addrLine>University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195 U.S.A.</addrLine>
                </address>
                <availability>
                    <licence target="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/">This work is
                        licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0
                        International License."></licence>
                </availability>
                <date when="2018"> 2011-2018 </date>
                <distributor>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</distributor>
            </publicationStmt>
            <notesStmt>
                <note>Volume 4 1896-1897</note>
            </notesStmt>
            <sourceDesc>
                <bibl>
                    <title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
                    <author>
                        <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs. Emma B. Andrews</persName>
                    </author>
                    <orgName ref="#APS">The American Philsophical Society</orgName>
                    <address>
                        <addrLine>105 South Fifth Street Philadelphia, PA 19106</addrLine>
                    </address>
                </bibl>
            </sourceDesc>
        </fileDesc>
        <encodingDesc>
            <projectDesc>
                <p>
                    <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma B. Andrews</persName> is best remembered
                    for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and
                    antiquities collector, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore M.
                        Davis</persName>. Traveling to <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>
                    with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages
                    along the <name type="river" ref="#Nile">Nile</name>, including his important
                    yet under-reported excavations of 20 significant tombs in the <placeName
                        ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Valley of the Kings</placeName>. <persName
                            ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma</persName> provides a vital commentary on the
                    archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time. She paints a revealing
                    picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific
                    literati in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at the dawn of the
                    twentieth century. To date, her diaries are unpublished; analysis of the
                    contents of 19 volumes will afford scholars and a general audience information
                    about an important historical resource for the first time. Since its inception
                    in 2010, the scope of our project has broadened to include the transcription and
                    digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden
                    Age' of Egyptian archaeology detailed in the Research section of this website.
                    The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project is one of the founding partners of Newbook
                    Digital Texts. We are proud to offer undergraduate and graduate Digital
                    Humanities education and internships.</p>
            </projectDesc>
        </encodingDesc>
        <profileDesc>
            <particDesc>
                <listPerson>
                    <person role="editor" sex="F">
                        <persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
                        <affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
                        <occupation>Affiliate Instructor</occupation>
                        <listEvent>
                            <event>
                                <p>Project Director 2010-present</p>
                            </event>
                        </listEvent>
                    </person>
                    <person role="intern" sex="F">
                        <persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
                        <affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
                        <occupation>Student Intern</occupation>
                        <listEvent>
                            <event>
                                <p>Team member 2015-2016</p>
                            </event>
                        </listEvent>
                    </person>
                    <!-- Repeat as necessary adding new team member -->
                    
                </listPerson>
            </particDesc>
        </profileDesc>
        <revisionDesc>
            <change when="2018-03-14" who="#SLK">
                <p>#SLK merged <name type="intern" ref="#CLS">Clare Summa</name>'s tagging.</p>
                <!-- Repeat as necessary, most recent at the top -->
            </change>
        </revisionDesc>
    </teiHeader>
    <text>
        <body> 
        	<div xml:id = "EBA18961117" type="Entry"> 
        
        	<pb n="073"/>
  			<!--PAGE 73**-->
  			
        	<p><title>S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896</title></p> 
        	<p>We sailed at 10 o’clock on Saturday the 14th -
            <persName ref="#Convers_Mr"> Mr. Convers</persName>, <persName ref="#Lüling_Mr">Mr. Luling</persName> and <persName ref="#Jevons_Mr">Mr. Jevons</persName> were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and
            the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters -
            and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing.
            The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen
            upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the
            light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide
            waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white
            foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion
            of the night.</p>
            
            <p>There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such
            pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr. Doty</persName>, the Health Officer of the N.
            Y. Port, <persName ref="#Ward Howe_Mrs_Elliot">Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot</persName>, the daughter of <persName ref ="#Ward Howe_Mrs_Julia">Mrs. Julia Ward Howe</persName> - and a <persName ref="#Pratt_Mr">Mr. Pratt</persName> -
            now American Consul General at <placeName ref="#Singapore">Singapore</placeName>, and for five years our Minister to <placeName ref="#Persia">Persia</placeName> - a
            really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry -
            and we have <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs. Bend</persName> of <placeName ref="#New York">New York</placeName> and her two daughters at our table. I asked <persName ref="#Pratt_Mr">Mr. Pratt</persName>
            how long <persName ref="#Benjamin">Benjamin</persName>, former Minister to <placeName ref="#Persia">Persia</placeName>, had lived in that country, and he said 3
            years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to
            write an exhaustive work. He <corr>tole</corr> me <persName ref="#Benjamin">Benjamin</persName> had given great offence to the Shela, and
            others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of <placeName ref="#Persia">Persia</placeName> about
            which he writes.</p>
        	</div> 
            
            <pb n="074"/>
            <!--PAGE 74**-->
            
            <div xml:id = "EBA18961127" type="Entry">
             
            <p><title>Nov. 27.</title></p> 
            <p>We will reach <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> in a few hours, and I will gladly
            say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until
            we reached <placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName> our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed <placeName ref="#the_Azoros">the Azores</placeName> on the
            20th - running very close to the large island of <placeName ref="#San Miguel">San Miguel</placeName> - very picturesque with its
            background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top
            - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where
            immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached
            <placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName>, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took <persName ref="#Bend_Beatrice">Beatrice Bend</persName> in
            our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain
            began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and
            wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on
            the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago.
            <persName ref="#Theodore_Davis">Theodore</persName> went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of
            macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender.
            From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent
            and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we
            dropped our anchor in the bay of <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I
            went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took
            immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs.
            Bend</persName> arrived from the
            
            <pb n="075"/> 
            <!--PAGE 75** -->
            
            Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short
            visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then
            we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments
            at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running
            smoothly this morning.</p></div>
            
           	<div xml:id="EBA1896126" type="Entry">
           
            <p><title><name type="boat" ref="#S.S. Freiderick der Grosser">S.S. Freiderick der Grosser</name>.</title></p>
            <p><title>near Port Said.</title></p> 
            <p><title>Dec. 6</title></p>
            <p>I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at
            Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> on the <date>27 Nov.</date> just too late to
            catch the only train to <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House,
            made a long journey through the streets of the town to the “Hotel du Pare” a rather
            attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be
            cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly
            disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows
            shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the
            night. The next day we were off for <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> at 12 o’clock - which we reached at 7 P.M.
            - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and <persName ref="#Hassan">Hassan</persName> were
            waiting for us, and went with us to <name type="hotel" ref="#the Grande Bretagne">the Grande Bretagne</name>, where we were installed in our
            old appartment. <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning
            with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>
            went to the Uffizzi - 
            
            <pb n="076"/>
            <!--PAGE 76** --> 
            
            <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> to do as much of the town as they
            could. <persName ref="#Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after
            which a drive to <placeName ref="#Fiesole">Fiesole</placeName>, and the rest of the time with <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> in their pretty little
            appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. <persName ref="#Berenson">Berenson</persName> also came
            to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> again, with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> along
            and went for the night to the “Hotel Isotta”, much more comfortable than the other. At 2
            o’clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble
            and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co.
            we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and
            aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o’clock the next morning for <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName>. We found
            the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she
            only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to <placeName ref="#Australia">Australia</placeName>
            - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> the next
            morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - <orgName ref="#Peabody_Dr_and_family">Dr. Peabody and
            family</orgName>, <persName ref="#Pratt_Mr">Mr. Pratt</persName> and <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr. Doty</persName> arrived in the afternoon. So did the <persName ref="#Wilhelm_Kaiser">Kaiser Wilhelm</persName>, just
            from <placeName ref="#New York">New York</placeName>, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for
            <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which
            is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName>.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="077"/>
            <!--PAGE 77**-->
            
                <div xml:id="EBA18961209" type="Entry">
                    <p><name type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards_Hotel">Shepheards Hotel</name>.</p> 
            <p><title><placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>. Dec. 9 - 96</title></p>
            <p>We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession
            of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the
            6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly
            along until she dropped anchor at <placeName ref="#Port Said">Port Said</placeName> about 2 o’clock A.M. There was but little
            sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the
            stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of
            the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o’clock <persName ref="#Amilie">Amilie</persName> came to call me, and I
            was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House,
            and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for <placeName ref="#Ismaïlia">Ismailia</placeName>, where we
            got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for
            the <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad
            one for <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our
            boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not
            raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> is quite ineffectual -
            and <persName ref="#Thubron">Thubron</persName> has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and
            in sailing order for the <date>1st of Dec.</date> as the contract calls for - <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> has evidently
            given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at <placeName ref="#Dongola">Dongola</placeName> for
            3 months - and has allowed the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> to care for herself. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> with admirable
            patience made 
            
            <pb n="078"/>
            <!--PAGE 78**-->
            himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods
            and incompetency, and then he went for <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> and his foreman, with such well directed
            effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and
            the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred
            practical details.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18961213" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Sunday, Dec. 13.</title></p>
            <p><persName ref="Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> have gone off in the carriage with
            <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> to see the <placeName ref="#Tombs_of_the Mameluks_and_the_Khalifs">Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs</placeName> - <persName ref="#Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr. Doty</persName> and <persName ref="#Peabody_Dr">Dr.
            Peabody</persName>, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch
            and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the <date>1st of January</date>. The
            great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName> until the <date>6th of
            <corr>Dec.!</corr></date> We have engaged our old cook <persName ref="Ibrahim_Hanna">Hanna</persName> - poor <persName ref="#Selim">Selim</persName> having died here not more than a
            month ago - <persName ref="#Ibraim_Hanna">Hanna</persName> speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising
            young Nubian as waiter whom <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> knows very well, and who has lived for years in
            <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>, we can get on very well. <persName ref="#Ibrahim_Hanna">Ibrahim</persName> too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and
            my <persName ref="#Ibrahim_Mohammed">Mohammed Ibrahim</persName> is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more
            English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how
            much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
            gave a dinner last night, and had <persName ref="#Sandwith_Dr">Dr. Sandwith</persName> and <persName ref="#Peabody_Dr">Peabody</persName> and <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Doty</persName>. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I had
            a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the <placeName ref="#Ghezireh_Palace">Ghezireh Palace</placeName>, and walked about
            the shady avenues 
            
            <pb n="079"/>
            <!--PAGE 79**-->
            
            and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of <persName ref="#Sandwith_Dr">Dr.
            Sandwith</persName> and <persName ref="#Sandiwth_Mrs">Mrs. Sandwith</persName> on our way home.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18961227" type="Entry">
            
                <p><title><name type="hotel" ref="#Ghesireh_Palace_Hotel">Ghesireh Palace Hotel</name>.</title></p>
            <p><title>Dec. 27.</title></p>
        	<p>We left <name type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards_Hotel">Shepheards</name> this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> and
            are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and
            look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the
            present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the
            awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only
            in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems
            to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many
            vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore’s</persName>
            apparent patience with <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so
            long in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>, certainly of the
            life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of
            <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time
            in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970103" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 3. Second Sunday after Christmas.</title></p>
            <p>Still waiting impatiently to get off -
            some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - 
            
            <!--PAGE 80**--> 
            <pb n="080"/>
            
            Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a
            week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with
            tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid <placeName ref="Boulak-Ramleh">Boulak-Ramleh
            quarter</placeName> - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can
            relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it
            unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to
            make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big,
            or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the
            carriage with <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName>, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little
            second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I
            bought finger bowls, caraffes - <sic>liqeur</sic> glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap
            dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the <name type="boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> is so comfortable and so
            convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take
            possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> winter weather
            for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be
            unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never
            think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But
            my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms,
            a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are
            strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the
            windows. But two or 
            
            <pb n="081"/> 
            <!--PAGE 81**--> 
            
            three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the
            waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for
            the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal,
            the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was
            scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that
            there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely
            pieces of ornamental furniture. <name type ="boat" ref="Beduin">Dahabeah “Beduin</name>”.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970111" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Monday, Jan. 11. 1897.</title></p> 
            <p>We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to <placeName ref="#Bedrasheen">Bedrasheen</placeName>, where we are
            now lying. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the
            Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the <name type="boat" ref="Beduin">Beduin</name>, under convoy of
            the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o’clock. Just as we
            reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our “<name type="boat" ref="Beduin">Beduin</name>”
            stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her
            go by - and I heard her pronounced the “handsomest craft on the river”. Immediately
            after lunch, when poor <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the
            bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks
            were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us,
            until we came down. In the midst of it, <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. and Miss Taylor</persName> arrived for a parting
            visit. Then there was the “debbil to pay” as dear old <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> would say, as <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> 
            
            <!--PAGE 82**-->
            <pb n="082"/>
             
            discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than
            above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>; they had no
            food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt
            blessing from us all to the impossible <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName>, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been
            working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are
            happy, if not yet in order.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970112" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 12.</title></p>
            <p>We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere
            between <placeName ref="#Bedreschein">Bedreschein</placeName> and <placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName>. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2
            miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at
            all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various
            “désagrémens” have developed themselves, the most important of which is old <sic><persName ref="#Ibrahim_Hanna">Henna</persName></sic>, our
            cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the <name type="boat" ref="#Herodotus">Herodotus</name> has taken fright at the range in
            his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread
            with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten
            sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so
            pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of
            anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty
            chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere -
            with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely
            perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown 
            
            <pb n="083"/> 
            <!--PAGE 83**-->
            
            wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But
            best of all, the <name type ="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier
            man on earth than our <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He
            has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our
            dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and
            has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the
            river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be
            his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer
            feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I
            never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with “<name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>” in blue
            letters across the breast, they look very well.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970113" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 13.</title></p>
            <p>Made 23 miles - are now lying
            near <placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName> - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very
            busy settling.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970114" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 14.</title></p>
            <p>Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on
            my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed <placeName ref="#Benisoef">Benisoef</placeName> about noon - ran
            until 8 o’clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.</p></div>
            
            <pb n="084"/>
            <!--PAGE 84**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970115" type="Entry">
             
            <p><title>Jan. 15th.</title></p> 
            <p>A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o’clock P.M. within 3 miles of <placeName ref="#Golasseheh">Golasseheh</placeName> -
            busy all day - made 57 miles.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970116" type="Entry"> 
            
            <p><title>Jan. 16.</title></p>
            <p>I wakened before it was light this morning and
            heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a
            little after 7 o’clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the
            Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName> at
            11 o’clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51
            miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug
            off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This
            morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to
            us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now
            resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o’clock
            72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this
            morning.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970117" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 17.</title></p> 
            <p>Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There
            has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the
            matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered.
            
            <pb n="085"/>
            <!--PAGE 85**--> 
            
            We are now within 4 miles of <placeName ref="#Gebal_Abu_Fedah">Gebel Abou Fedah</placeName> - day has been overcast, and a little cool.
            Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970118" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 18.</title></p> 
            <p>A very disappointing day. <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubrons</persName>
            wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer
            reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for
            several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way.
            So <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to “see in the
            boiler” as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking
            about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing
            to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us
            to do, to paddle back to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a
            very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o’clock,
            watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the <placeName ref="#Gebel_Abu_Fedah">Gebel Abu-Fedah</placeName> chain.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970119" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 19.</title></p>
            <p>We began tracking a little after seven o’clock this morning - a very little south wind made
            it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The
            English dahabeah <name type="#boat" ref="#Thames">Thames</name> passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug,
            and 
            
            <pb n="086"/>  
            <!--PAGE 86**-->
            
            they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>.
            A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the <placeName ref="Bar_Jusef_canal">Bar Jusef canal</placeName> - larks singing
            - wheat to my knees.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970120" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 20.</title></p>
            <p>A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze
            that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled
            to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this
            afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so
            threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o’clock the gale broke upon us - but
            no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air
            has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970121" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 21.</title></p>
            <p>We began sailing at 8 o’clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the <name type="#boat" ref="Beduin">Beduin</name> had her
            first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the
            great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on
            the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too
            strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the
            sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then
            shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt
            on the 
            
            <pb n="087"/>
            <!--PAGE 87**-->
            
            Nile - but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In
            the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in
            collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our
            sides a little to the great distress of <persName ref="#Rais_Fuli">Rais Fuli</persName> - but no real harm done. In swinging
            round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand
            - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach <placeName ref="Asyut">Assiut</placeName> until after 5
            P.M. - too late to go into the town - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> set off for the P.O.
            We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun’s for which we had written - and the
            box of table linen from <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>. The “Thames” lying opposite <placeName ref="#Asyut">Asyut</placeName>. We made about 30
            miles today.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970122" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 22.</title></p>
            <p><persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I took <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> this morning, and rowed down to the town,
            and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars,
            to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to
            their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them
            before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European
            dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us
            everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season
            practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had
            never seen before, which he called “Kishta” or cream. It seems it is an imported
            delicacy 
            
            <pb n="088"/>
            <!--PAGE 88**-->
            
            from the <placeName ref="#West_Indies">West Indies</placeName> - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were
            not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as
            polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being
            too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2
            American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something.
            There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the “Ramesis the Great” from up the
            river, and the ”Ramesis” from <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> arrived, and were near us. On the former were the
            Case family from <placeName ref="#Boston">Boston</placeName>, people who were on the Gens, and whom <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> knew. They came
            aboard to see the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full
            moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about
            <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970123" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 23d.</title></p>
            <p>We are still in sight of <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName> - though we have made 5 miles by
            tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName>
            and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and
            working.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970124" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 24. Third Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
            <p>A day of almost perfect calm - by
            tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15
            miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink,
            gray heat.</p></div> 
            
            <pb n="089"/>
            <!--PAGE 89**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970125" type="Entry">
            <p><title>Jan. 25.</title></p>
            <p>Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o’clock the wind
            came up, and we got about an hour’s sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking
            and poling, brought us within 10 miles of <placeName ref="#Tahtah">Tahtah</placeName> - making 12 miles altogether. <name type="#boat" ref="#The_Mena">The Mena</name>,
            flying the English flag - and <name type="#boat" ref="#the_Elephantine">the Elephantine</name> flying the French flag, passed us today -
            and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970126" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 26.</title></p>
            <p>A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are
            tonight 5 miles from <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> - passed <placeName ref="#Tahtah">Tahtah</placeName> at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole
            day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and
            exhilerating, that seems to renew one’s life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of
            El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of
            roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything
            but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the
            banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their
            loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working
            sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can
            be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and
            men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their
            animals before them, or dragging them 
            
            <pb n="090"/>
            <!--PAGE 90**-->
            
            after. It is no unusual thing to see
            donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing
            3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a
            time.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970127" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 27.</title></p>
            <p>Started this morning in a strong wind and came to <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> just as breakfast
            was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged
            along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour -
            and in the mean time we bought some of the bright <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName> cloths which a merchant was
            displaying on the bank. They used to be made in <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName>, but I suspect they more often
            now, come from <placeName ref="#Birmingham">Birmingham</placeName>, <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and
            south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the <name type="#boat" ref="#Herodotus">Herodotus</name> - and
            again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> - for
            the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite
            <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName>. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to
            keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river
            near <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName> - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged
            at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970128" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 28.</title></p>
            <p>We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o’clock with a 
            
            <pb n="091"/>
            <!--PAGE 91**-->
            
            fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at <placeName ref="#Balliana">Balliana</placeName> for more than 2 hours.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970129" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 29.</title></p>
            <p>With the exception of <date>Jan. 15</date>, we have made
            today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near <placeName ref="#Qena">Keneh</placeName>. Passed the <name type="boat" ref="#Philetus">Philetus</name>
            - like a dream.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970130" type="Entry">
            <p><title>Jan. 30.</title></p>
            <p>A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970131" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
            <p>We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> at 4:30
            - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and
            poled. About 11 o’clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then
            her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for
            a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> the same
            time as the <placeName ref="#Manhattan">Manhattan</placeName>, and just behind the <name type="boat" ref="#Zenet-el_Nil">Zenet-el Nil</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Sesostris">the Sesostris</name> and <name type ="boat" ref="Ammon_Ra">the Ammon Ra</name>
            - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town,
            and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders
            of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and
            newspapers.</p></div> 
            
            <pb n="092"/>
            <!--PAGE 92**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970203" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 3. Luxor.</title></p>
            <p>We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days -
            yesterday neither <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank,
            we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed -
            doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated
            everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across
            the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for
            the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions -
            for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more
            favorable weather. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention
            of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our
            heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and
            came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> came to see us soon
            after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to
            let us beat his <name type="boat" ref="Zenet-el_Nil">Zenet-el Nil</name> - <persName ref="#Goleinschief_M">M. Goleinschief’s</persName> boat, of which he has charge. Old
            <persName ref="#Mohammed_Mohassib">Mohammed Mohassib</persName> also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our
            little gifts to him. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I
            have not yet seen it. <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mr">Mr. Baldwin</persName> who is on the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name>, with his wife, and son-in-law,
            <persName ref="#Grinell_Mr">Dr. Grinell</persName> - was here today. <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mrs">Mrs. Baldwin</persName> is very wretched since she came on the river.
            They want us to start for <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> when they do. The Fell party on the <name type="#boat" ref="#Zenet-el_Fil">Zenet-el-Fil</name> go
            back to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> from here - much to <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah’s</persName> 
            
            <pb n="093"/>
            <!--PAGE 93**-->
            
            disgust. This morning we had a visit
            from <persName ref="#Huhatt_Mr">Rev. Mr. Huhatt</persName> - the English clergyman at <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>, and <persName ref="#Coulson_Mr">Mr. Coulson</persName> - they begged us
            to go to the <name type="hotel" ref="#Luxor_Hotel">Luxor Hotel</name> to a “Cinderella Fancy Dress” Ball for the benefit of the
            little Hospital here.<persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan
            begins today - very early this year. <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970205" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 5.</title></p>
            <p>Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I
            saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old <persName ref="#Beato_Felice">Beato</persName>, who afterwards came into
            the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to
            the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over
            the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> at Medinet to finish her sketches It
            was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970206" type="Entry">
            
                <p><title>Feb. 6.</title></p>
            <p>We did not much want to leave <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>
            this morning - but as <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mrs">Mrs. Baldwin</persName> has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it
            was today or next week - and as <persName ref="Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the
            <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> with the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Re</name>, <persName ref="#Cook_Thomas">Cooks</persName> best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty
            minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we
            had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight
            of our own. Indeed <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too
            
            <pb n="094"/>
            <!--PAGE 94**-->
            
            exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About
            6 o’clock after much tracking we pulled up near <placeName ref="#Erment">Erment</placeName> where we now are. I was rather
            sorry to leave <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to <placeName ref="#Karnak">Karnak</placeName> in the
            morning - the races in the afternoon - <persName ref="#Huhatt_Mr">Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt</persName>, <persName ref="#Brown_Mr">Mr. and Mrs. Brown</persName> - <persName ref="Scott_Miss">Miss
            Scott</persName> - and <persName ref="Norton_Miss">Miss Norton</persName>, to tea at 5 o’clock, and <persName ref="#Billings_Laura">Laura Billings</persName> and her sister and <persName ref="#Fahnestock_Mr">Mr.
            Fahenstock</persName> of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some
            splendid red roses from the <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the
            Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for <persName ref="#Zenobia">Zenobia</persName>, my
            little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had
            an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> had, for she could speak only
            Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> - pleasant airy
            courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself,
            clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of “The Abbess” of
            <persName ref="Moroni_Battista_Giovanni">Moroni</persName> - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. <persName ref="#Zenobia">Zenobia</persName>, her father, and her
            sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The
            sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and
            <persName ref="#Zenobia">Zenobia</persName> as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be
            impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American
            Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt
            and poverty. For the first time at <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>, I rode in one of the carriages, 
            
            <pb n="095"/>
            
            <!--PAGE 95**--> 2 or 3
            of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn’t
            like to see such unnecessary innovations.</p>
            </div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970207" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 7. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
            <p>We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and
            the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the
            <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at <placeName ref="#Esneh">Esneh</placeName> at 7:30 - but the wind coming out
            strong at 9 o’clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one
            o’clock, when we pulled up at <placeName ref="#El_Kab">Al-Kab</placeName> having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a
            wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent -
            and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970208" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 8th.</title></p>
            <p>Did not sail early this morning -
            and as we began tracking about 11, the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> appeared in sight. At 2 o’clock we
            pulled up at <placeName ref="#El_Kab">Al-Kab</placeName>, to see <persName ref="Clarke_Somers_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> - who is living there on his dahabeah at
            work at excavations. He came on the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> for a short visit, and it was quite an hour
            before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an
            hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfou</placeName> about 5 o’clock - what
            beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about
            5 miles above <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfou</placeName> - and have made 24 miles today. The <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> seems to sail almost
            without wind - so smoothly she glided along 
            
            <pb n="096"/>
            <!--PAGE 96**-->
            mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970209" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 9.</title></p> 
            <p>I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind -
            but at 7 o’clock we passed <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsilis</placeName>, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect
            night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsileh</placeName> rocks, as it was
            growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple -
            everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> came
            up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner <persName ref="Grinell_Dr">Dr. and Mrs. Grinell</persName>
            came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of
            my long indolence.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970210" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 10.</title></p>
            <p>A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up,
            with the <name type="#boat" ref="Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good
            wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o’clock - 2 miles above <placeName ref="Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName> which was
            beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.</p></div> 
            
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970211" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 11. Thuesday. Assouan.</title></p>
            <p>Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o’clock, with the <name type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and
            <name type="boat" ref="#Manhattan">Manhattan</name> within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of
            both boats. Passed the <name type="boat" ref="Gazelle">Gazelle</name> 
            
            <pb n="097"/>
            <!--PAGE 97**-->
            
            just below <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> on her way down. Found the
            “Sesostris”, <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">“Istar”</name>, “<name type="boat" ref="#Phietus">"Philetus”</name> and <name type="boat" ref="#Thames">“Thames”</name> here at Elephantine - and now that the
            <name type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">“Ammon-Ra”</name> and <name type="boat" ref="Manhattan">"Manhattan”</name> have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The <name type="boat" ref="#Philetus">Philetus</name> started
            this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the
            Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of
            expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>.</p>
            </div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970212" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 12.</title></p>
            <p>Went over to Philae by train - <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I - with all our entourage of servants
            and sailors and hampers - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> following later on their donkeys, in
            time for lunch. I found <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors
            that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide -
            <persName ref="#Dendowi">Dendowi</persName> too, the unapproachable - who appropriated <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> for the day. <persName ref="#Newman_Mr_Mrs">Newmans</persName> not here
            this year. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and
            after wandering about and photographing all the children and <persName ref="#Mohammet">Mohammet</persName> the sailor, I
            established myself in the long colonnade near <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName>, out of the sun, and wind - and read
            - while <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> and <persName ref="#Ibrahim">Ibrahim</persName> got the lunch ready - I made <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> and the children sing for
            me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft
            and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the
            cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a
            constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express 
            
            <pb n="098"/>
            <!--PAGE 98**-->
            
            sleep - I asked <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> what the song was, and they all replied that it was the “<placeName ref="#Dongola">Dongola</placeName>“ song -
            and when I asked what it meant, <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> replied that it was a slumber song (though of
            course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was
            telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in <placeName ref="#Dongola">Dongola</placeName>, here it
            was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one
            song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of
            the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the
            island gave a very good idea of the extent of <persName ref="#Lyons_Capt">Capt. Lyons</persName> work and explorations of last
            year. <persName ref="#Grinnell_Dr_Mrs">Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell</persName> also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh’s Bed. We
            came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> and <persName ref="#Dendowi">Dendowi</persName> with us to show them
            the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970217" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb 17.</title></p> 
            <p>Before 5 o’clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was
            taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting
            ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> - the pleasantest I
            have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite
            at home. <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced
            with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the
            river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, 
            
            <pb n="099"/>
            <!--PAGE 99**-->
            
            which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no
            soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than
            any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being
            so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> and <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Lord
            Fitz-Hardinge</persName> came to call. The <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinges_Lord">Fitz-Hardinges</persName> have the little <name type="boat" ref="#Thames">Thames</name> which they built
            years ago - and <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> on his <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young
            fellow with the <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinges_Lord">Fitz-Hardinges</persName>, <persName ref="#Bridgman_Dr">Dr. Bridgman</persName>, who found him an enthusiastic gardener,
            and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>.
            We had <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a
            great many things we wanted to know. We left <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Lord Fitz-Hardinge</persName> very ill - with
            threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having
            formerly known of him as <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Hon. Mr. Berkeley</persName>. With this title which is one of the oldest
            in <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>, dating from the time of <persName ref="#King_Stephen">King Stephen</persName>, he has become owner of <placeName ref="Berkeley_Castle">Berkeley Castle</placeName>
            one of the most interesting historical Castles of <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>, and also to an income of
            ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes
            - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change
            of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for
            which they have no liking. The next heir, is <persName ref="#Berkeley_Lord">Lord Berkeley</persName> of <placeName ref="#Oxford">Oxford</placeName> - a man no longer
            young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads
            the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest
            of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s 
            
            <pb n="100"/>
            <!--PAGE 100**-->
            
            to spend a year! <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName>
            on the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us
            yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel -
            one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance
            with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that
            at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the
            cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>
            near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most
            resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides,
            glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed,
            and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside
            beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and
            looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!</p>
                </div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970218" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 18.</title></p>
            <p>We made about 3
            miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we
            gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> almost a
            mile below us. <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did
            going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current,
            and there really were waves. We had a charming visit <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. S.</persName> Showing us some of his
            interesting works on <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> - <persName ref="#Belzoni_Giovanni">Belzoni’s</persName> splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures
            of the temples and 
            
            <pb n="101"/> 
           	<!-- PAGE 101**--> 
           	
           	tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably
            accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant
            of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great
            Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the
            travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which <persName ref="#Amory_Howard">Howard Amory</persName> gave me from his
            grandfather’s library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian “del
            Valle” in 16____. The <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable -
            20 ft. wide. We and <persName ref="Cook_Thomas">Cooks</persName> new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon,
            and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a
            library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. S.</persName>
            says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as
            strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the
            river as we have been doing all day.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970219" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. Feb. 19.</title></p>
            <p>We began the morning very early
            with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon
            the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> suggested an
            anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading
            <persName ref="#Stevenson_Louis_Robert">Stevenson’s</persName> “South-Sea Sketches”, and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are
            now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on.</p></div>
             
             
            <!--PAGE 120**-->
            <pb n="120"/>
             
            <div xml:id="EBA18970220" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 20.</title></p>
            <p>I had quite an
            attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from
            sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o’clock - that the
            gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back
            to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began
            reading <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce’s</persName> “Egypt of the Hebrews”. Last night we got away from our lee shore,
            and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly.
            Read aloud a long time in <persName ref="#Milner_Alfred">Milner’s</persName> “England in Egypt”.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970221" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday.</title></p>
            <p>The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I
            saw <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName> directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on
            its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is
            charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much
            swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as
            <sic><persName ref="#Gaze_Henry">Gage’s</persName></sic> Steamer “<name type="#boat" ref="#Memphis">Memphis</name>” was coming up to her landing. Passed the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> lying by a
            little below <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName>. This is our 5th day from <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>, and we have only covered 29
            miles.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970222" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Feb. 22. Monday.</title></p>
            <p>We were off before 6 o’clock this morning - rowing - and in the
            face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - 
            
            <pb n="103"/>
            <!--PAGE 103**-->
            
            we passed <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsilis</placeName> about 3 o’clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour
            afterwards we had gained very much upon the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> - and our men were pulling lustily -
            when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went
            rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7
            o’clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a
            pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsilis</placeName> -
            making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion
            of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice <persName ref="#Mathar">Mathar</persName>, the 2d captain,
            hasn’t even a smile - <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping
            it.</p></div>
             
            <div xml:id="EBA18970223" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Tuesday. Feb. 23.</title></p>
            <p>We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>> -
            there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to
            leave her, that the 10 days between <date>March 23</date> and <date>April 3d</date> when we leave for <sic><placeName ref="#Brindisi">Hrindisi</placeName></sic>
            will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we
            started out before 6 - and when <persName ref="#Ainely">Ainely</persName> came to my room, she reported the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> some
            distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the
            <name type="#boat" ref="#Gazelle">Gazelle</name>, which left <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>, the day we arrived. Yesterday the <name type="#Nephtis">Nephtis</name> passed up, with
            the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a
            grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told -
            and jumped from 
            
            <pb n="104"/>
            <!--PAGE 104**-->
            
            a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions.
            A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970224" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. Feb. 24.</title></p>
            <p>Morning calm - did not start until 10 o’clock - as we had hoped to se <persName ref="Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName>. I wanted very much to
            see his boat. But we found he and <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> had gone early to the tombs, so after a
            little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a
            head wind made 15 miles.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970225" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Thursday. Feb. 25.</title></p>
            <p>We floated down 2 miles to <placeName ref="#Temple_of_Esna">Esneh</placeName> early this
            morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don’t
            care for - <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> and <persName ref="#Ibraim_Hanna">Henna</persName> went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of
            the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>
            tonight - but at 11 o’clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the
            <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> lights - having made 36 miles.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970226" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. Feb. 26.</title></p>
            <p>We came to our old place near the
            Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to
            Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American
            Mission to ask about the little arab girl “Nubia” and the chances of sending her to
            school. I saw <persName ref="#Nichols_Mrs">Mrs. Nichols</persName> in her pleasant 
            
            <pb n="105"/>
            <!--PAGE 105**-->
            
            clean rooms - and she could not give
            me any encouragement. Asked her and <persName ref="#Nichols_Mr">Mr. Nichols</persName> to come to tea this afternoon - and had
            a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to <placeName ref="#America">America</placeName> for a vacation year, having spent
            7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the <name type="#boat" ref="#Hyksos">Hyksos</name>, <name type="#boat" ref="#Anna">Anna</name>, <name type="#boat" ref="#Gamilla">Gamilla</name>, and one other. <persName ref="#Huhatt_Mr">Mr.
            Huhatt</persName> came to play chess.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970227" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 27.</title></p> 
            <p>Today the <name type="#boat" ref="#Cheops">Cheops</name>, <name type="#boat" ref="#Columbia">Columbia</name> and <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name>
            came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face
            the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had
            a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had
            <persName ref="#Nubia">“Nubia”</persName> part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to
            send her away at 12 o’clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which
            was a pair of red shoes - which <persName ref="#Schaiyeh_Mohammed">Mohammed Schaiyeh</persName>, my singer, bought for her in the
            town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for
            lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The <name type="#boat" ref="Osiris">Osiris</name> came in this afternoon and is
            lying close behind us.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970228" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Quinquagesima Sunday. Feb. 28.</title></p>
            <p>We had thought of getting off
            today, but there was no wind, and <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mr">Mr. Baldwin</persName> wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did
            not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. <persName ref="#Read_Constantine_Mrs">Mrs. Constantine Read</persName> and her
            cousin made us a visit, and <persName ref="#Shephard">Mr. Shephard</persName> and his sister of the 
            
            <pb n="106"/>
            <!--PAGE 106**-->
            
            <name type="boat" ref="#Hyksos">Hyksos</name> also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. <persName ref="#Mohassib_Mohammed">Mohammed Mohassib</persName> also came.</p>
            </div> 
                <div xml:id="EBA18970301" type="Entry">
            <p><title>March 1st. Monday.</title></p>
            <p>We did not get away until 7 o’clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the
            town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and
            anchored, until about 4 o’clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly
            spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on
            our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same
            circumstances, the <name type="#boat" ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name> which left <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> the day before us, and the <name type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> who got
            away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two <placeName ref="#Mecca">Mecca</placeName>
            pilgrims going to <placeName ref="#Mecca">Mecca</placeName> stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to
            break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in
            white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970302" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>March 2d. Tuesday.</title></p>
            <p>A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and the <name type="#boat" ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name>, we
            reached <placeName ref="#Qena">Keneh</placeName> about 3 o’clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached
            the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very
            hot for 2 hours - found the <name type="#boat" ref="#Columbia">Columbia</name> at <placeName ref="#Dendera">Denderah</placeName>. They reported on coming home, very
            unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in
            advance of the <name type="#boat" ref="Osiris">Osiris</name>,
            
            <pb n="107"/>
            <!--PAGE 107**-->
            
            and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three
            times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews.
            <persName ref="#Oswald_St_Lord">Lord St. Oswald</persName> is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and
            rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north,
            at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert
            mountains across the river beyond <placeName ref="#Qena">Keneh</placeName>. What a hot, desolate spot <placeName ref="#Qena">Keneh</placeName> must have been
            last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once
            - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the
            Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to <placeName ref="#Mecca">Mecca</placeName> - I should like to have ridden
            into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert
            route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970303" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. March 3.</title></p> 
            <p>This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are
            truly thankful - for <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName> - 2 Rais Mattar - <persName ref="#Moomond">Moomond</persName> the big Mohammed, and <persName ref="#Baken">Baken</persName> the
            little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and
            things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the
            <name type="#boat" ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name>, the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name>, the <name type="#boat" ref="#Columbia">Columbia</name> and several large working boats have been in most of
            the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most
            of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others
            
            <pb n="108"/>
            <!--PAGE 108**-->
            
            out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o’clock we
            tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3
            miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mr">Baldwins</persName>. We have made 25
            miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970304" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Thursday. March 4.</title></p>
            <p>Made about 5
            miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir
            since 8 o’clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970305" type="#Entry">
             
            <p><title>Friday. March 5.</title></p> 
                <p>Started at 5
            o’clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we
            passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. <name type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and <name type="boat" ref="Osiris">Osiris</name> ahead of us.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970306" type="Entry"> 
            
            <p><title>Saturday. March 6.</title></p>
            <p>Our men began rowing at 1 o’clock this morning - reached <placeName ref="#Balliana">Balliana</placeName> at 10:30 and started
            immediately for <placeName ref="#Abydos">Abydos</placeName>. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so
            tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of <placeName ref="#Abydos">Abydos</placeName> or
            rather <placeName ref="#Balliana">Balliana</placeName> fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially
            tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our
            saddles again - and I came home resolving 
            
            <pb n="109"/>
            <!--PAGE 109**-->
            
            never to do that expedition again.
            The <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and <name type="#boat" ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name> did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the <name type="#boat" ref="#Columbia">Columbia</name>
            (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new
            moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its
            bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal
            lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the <placeName ref="#Abydos">Abydos</placeName> fields today, the most
            beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970307" type="Entry">
            <p><title>1st Sunday in Lent. March 7.</title></p>
            <p>Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at <placeName ref="#Akim">Akmim</placeName>.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970308" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Monday. March 8.</title></p>
            <p>Started early, and made <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> by 9 o’clock - where we stopped to get
            coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o’clock P.M. had come 6 miles below <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> -
            making the whole day 11 miles. North wind.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970309" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Tuesday. March 9.</title></p>
            <p>Made 2 miles today early -
            tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may
            move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south
            wind! <persName ref="#Khonsu">Chonsu</persName> passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. <name type="#boat" ref="#Columbia">Columbia</name> still behind. Had a
            row in the felucca.</p></div> 
            
            <pb n="110"/>
            <!--PAGE 110**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970310" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. March 10.</title></p> 
                <p>Early this morning, we managed to make
            about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did
            all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the
            sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the
            night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it
            has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the
            air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970311" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Thursday. March 11.</title></p>
            <p>Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a
            walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed
            away.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970312" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. March 12.</title></p> 
                <p>Got away at 6 o’clock and rowed and floated until about 10 -
            when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore -
            where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the <name type="boat" ref="#Nephtys">Nephtys</name>, with the Duke of
            Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles
            today.</p></div>
            
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970313" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Saturday - March 13.</title></p>
            <p>Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such
            a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite 
            
            <pb n="111"/>
            <!--PAGE 111**-->
            
            <placeName ref="#Tahta">Tahtah</placeName>. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the
            yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering
            limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our
            sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the
            deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open -
            and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to
            walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The <name type="#boat" ref="Columbia">Columbia</name> came in sight this morning, and
            drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind
            having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus
            making 27 miles).</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970314" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Second Sunday in Lent. March 14.</title></p>
            <p>Started early rowing. North wind
            strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName> - the lights of the town
            plainly to be seen. <name type="#boat" ref="#Columbia">Columbia</name> near us. A superb sunset.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970315" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Monday, March 15.</title></p>
            <p>Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>, until after one o’clock.
            The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o’clock.</p></div>
            
            <pb n="112"/>
            <!--PAGE 112**-->
             
                <div xml:id="EBA18970316" type="Entry">
            <p><title>Tuesday. March 16.</title></p>
            <p>We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day.
            Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel
            Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely
            effects this evening.</p>
                </div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970317" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. March 17.</title></p>
            <p>Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the
            strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and
            rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away
            from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o’clock. Such a radiant
            night!</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970318" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Thursday. March 18.</title></p>
            <p>We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being
            the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon
            by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o’clock - but did not stop - as we are so
            belated. Every day <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> says “tomorrow” I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south
            sind doesn’t come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a
            Khamseen. We reached <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName> at 7 o’clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night.
            The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however
            lying along the river.</p></div>
            
            
            <pb n="113"/>
            <!--PAGE 113**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970319" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. March 19.</title></p>
            <p>An early start, and rowing and
            occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3
            miles of <placeName ref="#Fashen">Fashen</placeName> - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName> this morning - a
            strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970320" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Saturday - March 20.</title></p> 
                <p>Started at 6 A.M.
            made <placeName ref="#Benisoef">Benisoef</placeName> about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light
            wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from <placeName ref="#El_Wasta">Wasta</placeName>, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30
            yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight.</p>
            </div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970321" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st.</title></p>
            <p>An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near
            Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the
            dome and slender minarets of <persName ref="#Ali_Mohammed">Mohammed Ali</persName> - shining in the sun above the thick haze,
            looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> showing her
            paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to
            Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at <placeName ref="#Giza">Ghizeh</placeName>. The sky being full of great
            clouds, very unlike <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful
            contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and
            Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the
            atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with 
            
            <pb n="114"/>
            <!--PAGE 114**-->
            
            great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which
            as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been
            ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the
            clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it,
            though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the
            afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of
            our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we
            lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2
            hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the
            uproar was tremendous - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> went for a walk, but were driven home by
            the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under
            canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with
            a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11
            o’clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing.</p></div>
            
        	<div xml:id="EBA18970322" type="Entry">
        	
            <p><title>Monday, March 22d.</title></p> 
            <p>We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o’clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to
            shore about Old <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the
            afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking
            in many places - so that when <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> came back from <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>, where they
            went and had lunch and came back late in the 
            
            <pb n="115"/>
            <!--PAGE 115**-->
             
            afternoon - they found us with
            curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They
            were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>
            like Paradise.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970323" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Tuesday. March 23.</title></p>
            <p>We made the Museum landing at <placeName ref="#Giza">Ghizeh</placeName> this morning
            early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in
            violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March
            day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and
            had it all to ourselves. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> have been into <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>, and report it
            dismal.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970324" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. March 24.</title></p> 
                <p>A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the
            Museum - <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> came out to see us.</p>
            </div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970325" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Thursday. March 25.</title></p>
            <p>Very busy all the morning with
            the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail
            makers. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> very pretty with
            flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> had been quite ill for
            some days, and so suffering that we sent for <persName ref="#Sandwith_Dr">Dr. Sandwith</persName> yesterday, who said he must go
            to the hospital for a few days. So this 
            
            <pb n="116"/>
            <!--PAGE 116**--> 
            
            morning the men with <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName>, took him
            down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss
            to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately
            we have fallen back on <persName ref="#Salah_Mohmmaed">Salah</persName>, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out
            to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> when so warm.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970326" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. March 26.</title></p>
            <p><persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. Taylor</persName> and <persName ref="#Taylor_Florence">Florence</persName> came this morning and made a visit, and were very
            pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> - asking us to dine
            on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet <persName ref="#Scott_John_Sir">Sir John Scott</persName>, who wants to know <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>,
            and whom <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is very keen to meet. <persName ref="#Scott_John_Sir">Sir John</persName> is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and
            did excellent work in <placeName ref="#India">India</placeName> before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs.
            In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met <persName ref="#Lang_Hamilton_Mrs">Mrs. Hamilton Lang</persName> and
            her daughter - saw <persName ref="#Kitchener_Herbert">Gen. Kitchener</persName>, the Sirdâr and other notables.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970328" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28.</title></p>
            <p>I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. Taylor</persName> -
            which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon <persName ref="#Sandwith_Dr">Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith</persName> came to tea - and
            <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. Taylor</persName> and <persName ref="#Taylor_Florence">Florence</persName>, and her fiancé <persName ref="#Morice_Mr">Mr. Morice</persName> to dine. We had a nice evening.</p></div> 
            
            <pb n="117"/>
            <!--PAGE 117**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970330" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Tuesday, March 30. Cairo.</title></p>
            <p>We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the
            corner room we had 5 years ago, when <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> was with us. Then it was cold and we had a
            fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at
            night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I
            do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very
            tired from yesterday - packing and arranging.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970331" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday, March 31.</title></p>
            <p>Over at the boat
            which still lies at <placeName ref="#Giza">Ghizeh</placeName> - and where our <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais</persName> intends to stay all summer because it is
            so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970401" type="Entry"> 
            
                <p><title>Thursday, April 1st.</title></p>
            <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> went to the Courts of Justice this morning with <persName ref="#Scott_John_Sir">Sir John Scott</persName> and <persName ref="#Morice_Mr">Mr. Morice</persName>,
            and were much interested. <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but
            almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc.
            of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the
            smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>, so changed - closed and dark, with
            her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, and
            <persName ref="#Arbuk">Arbuk</persName>, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName>, who will live
            with <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Fuli</persName> on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he 
            
            <pb n="118"/>
            <!--PAGE 118**-->
            
            reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName> is immensely glad to
            have him. The <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Taylors</persName> sailed for <placeName ref="#Marseille">Marseilles</placeName> today in the <name type="#boat" ref="#Clyde">Clyde</name>.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970402" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday, April 2d.</title></p>
            <p>We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the
            colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
            <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for
            2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off
            tomorrow morning for <placeName ref="#Alexandria">Alexandria</placeName> and sail for <placeName ref="#Brindisi">Brindisi</placeName> in the afternoon.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970415" type="Entry"> 
            
            <p><title>Rome. <name type="hotel" ref="#Bristol_Hotel">Bristol Hotel</name>. April 15</title>.</p> 
            <p>A long interval in this journal. We left <placeName ref="#Alexandria">Alexandria</placeName> the afternoon of
            the 3d in the fine new <name type="#boat" ref="S.S_Bohemia">S.S. Bohemia</name> for <placeName ref="#Brindisi">Brindisi</placeName>. Weather very warm - and we were glad
            of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable -
            but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday -
            and we landed at <placeName ref="#Brindisi">Brindisi</placeName> at 5 o’clock and made our train, because they were complaisant
            enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> was not so tiring,
            and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh
            spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can
            see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName>, is something quite wonderful.
            Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands 
            
            <pb n="119"/>
            <!--PAGE 119**-->
            
            of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
            had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave
            him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the <persName ref="#Malbrane_Dr">Doctor (Malbrane)</persName> who is always so
            simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the
            weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most
            of the time, I stayed at home with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> - and on Saturday the 10th he was well
            enough to come on here - <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName>, <persName ref="#Newverry_Mary">Mary</persName>, <persName ref="#Amilie">Amilie</persName> and <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> spent one day at <placeName ref="#Pompeii">Pompeii</placeName>, and
            <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them
            much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the <placeName ref="#Bristol">Bristol</placeName> we came here, which
            is always my favorite hotel in <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName>. But alas, I have since coming here developed the
            grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as
            uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with <persName ref="#Bull_Dr">Dr. Bull</persName> in daily attendance. All the
            world more or less is in <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit
            <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName>, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered,
            many galleries closed etc.</p>
            </div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970422" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title><name type="hotel" ref="#Hotel_Grande_Bretagne">Hotel Grande Bretagne</name>. Florence. April 22.</title></p> 
            <p>We got away from <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> Tuesday the 20th at 9 o’clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> had
            taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out
            7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation <persName ref="#Elliot_Mrs">Mrs. Elliott</persName>, who
            had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there.</p> 
            
            <pb n="120"/>
            <!--PAGE 120**-->
            
            <p><persName ref="#Stillman_Mrs">Mrs. Stillman</persName>, the once favorite beauty was there - <persName ref="#Anderson_Lar_Mr">Mr. Larz Anderson</persName> - the young Swedish American sculptor
            <persName ref="#Anderson_Larz_Mrs">Anderson</persName>, whose mother lives in <placeName ref="#Newport">Newport</placeName> was there and others. It was not quite my idea
            of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o’clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy
            hill - but <persName ref="#Elliot_Mrs">Mrs. Elliott’s</persName> intention was good and kind. The next morning, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName>
            and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely <persName ref="#Forli_Da_Melozzo">Melozzo</persName> angels and frescoes in the inner
            sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being
            quite warm and beautiful. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went to lunch with the <persName ref="#Elliot_Mrs">Elliotts</persName>, and in the afternoon
            <persName ref="Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of
            people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind
            was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to <persName ref="#Elliot_Mrs">Mrs. Elliott</persName> and had a
            pleasant visit - meeting for the first time <persName ref="#Elliot_Mr">Mr. Elliott</persName> - a handsome, rather invalid
            looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he
            cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole
            quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating.
            <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> met us there, and after tea we all drove home. <persName ref="#Eliot_Mrs">Mrs. Elliott</persName> and her cousin <persName ref="#Ralem_Von_Miss">Miss
            Von Ralem</persName> having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>,
            found <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> waiting for us, and who soon went off with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName>. We have pleasant rooms
            here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I, have
            decided to stay here and not go to <placeName ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName> - <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> will go alone.</p></div>
            
            <pb n="121"/>
            <!--PAGE 121**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970424" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>April 24. Saturday.</title></p>
            <p>We are having a rainy day - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I however went for a little shopping
            this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however.
            We brought up at Pelotti’s where we met <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, and looked at many enticing things.
            <persName ref="#Berenson_Mrs">Mr. Berenson</persName> came to lunch - and after <persName ref="#Niblock_Lieutenant">Lieutenant Niblock</persName> called - home all the
            afternoon the rain pouring. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite
            mended. Yesterday morning, <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I drove a long time in the lovely
            Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection,
            and then a visit to <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> - <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> have been busy each day doing <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>.
            This afternoon <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> went off alone to <placeName ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName>, charged with the precious things and
            the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and
            Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs. Bend</persName> and her
            daughters dined with us, and on Thursday <persName ref="#Costellar_Mrs">Mrs. Costellar</persName> and <persName ref="#Berenson_Mrs">Berenson</persName>.</p></div> 
            
           	<div xml:id="EBA18970425" type="Entry"> 
            
			<p><title>Sunday after Easter. April 25.</title></p>
            <p>We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining
            with <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs. Bend</persName> and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day
            has been lovely - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and
            afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the <persName ref="#Masaccio">Masaccio</persName> frescoes - which I knew
            well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite
            the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. 
            
            <pb n="122"/> 
            <!--PAGE 122**-->
            
            <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie Buttles</persName> and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone,
            <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mrs">Mrs. Baldwin</persName> called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking
            to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.</p></div>
                
            <div xml:id="EBA18970426" type="Entry"> 
            
            <p><title>Monday. April 26.</title></p>
            <p>After a morning with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
            I drove out to the Villa Rosa at <placeName ref="#Fiesole">Fiesole</placeName> to lunch with <persName ref="#Costellar_Mrs">Mrs. Costellar</persName> and <persName ref="#Berenson_Mrs">Berenson</persName>. A
            nice scotch woman was there - a <persName ref="#Breenner_Christina_Miss">Miss Christina Breenner</persName> - worker in and writer on
            education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the
            hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng
            having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry
            home, for <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs. Bend</persName> and her girls were coming to tea to meet <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> and the girls.
            <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
            and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970427" type="Entry">
    
            <p><title>Tuesday, April 27.</title></p>
            <p>Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at <persName ref="#Baldwin_Dr">Dr. Baldwins</persName> - where we had a
            delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>
            for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzies</persName> to tea - and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> sang
            for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> in the Cascine. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> came
            to dine, and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> came for her with <persName ref="#Hassan">Hassan</persName> in the evening. 
            
            <pb n="123"/>
            <!--PAGE 123**-->
            
            Afterwards <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I went up to <persName ref="#Haven_Woodward_Mrs">Mrs. Woodward Haven’s</persName> rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye.
            Weather very warm - off tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName>.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970428" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. April 28th</title>.</p>
            <p>A very busy morning with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> - <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o’clock we had to say goodbye
            to <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizie">Lizzie</persName> and <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> - and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I started for <placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName>, which we reached
            comfortably enough at 10 o’clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970429" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Thursday. April 29.</title></p>
            <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I started out at 10 o’clock for
            the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I drove to the
            other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it
            was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants.
            As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the
            Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by
            <persName ref="#Bergognone">Borgognone</persName>. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of
            blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to
            S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we
            could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a
            contrast to <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a
            flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any 
            
            <pb n="124"/>
            <!--PAGE 124**--> 
            
            shops to be found of them. The
            streets of <placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName> are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and
            uncomfortable. We found <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Lord Fitzhardinge</persName> and his party here just on their way up from
            <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>, and <persName ref="#Bridgman_Dr">Dr. Bridgman</persName> came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o’clock -
            talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName> - <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName>
            came back from <placeName ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName>, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970430" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. April 30.</title></p>
            <p>This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon
            <persName ref="#Bridgman_Dr">Dr. Bridgman</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral -
            and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows
            opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked
            over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening,
            with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow.
            We start for <placeName ref="#Turin">Turin</placeName> at 11:30 tomorrow morning.</p></div> 
            
        	<div xml:id="EBA18970501" type="Entry">
            
          	<p><title>Saturday. May 1st.</title></p>
           	<p><title>Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin.</title></p>
           	<p>We left <placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName> at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we
        	went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see.
        	After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in
            for a moment, and then 
            
            <pb n="125"/>
        	<!--PAGE 125**-->
        	
            went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the
            paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the
            <persName ref="#Bugiardini_Giuliano">Bugiardini</persName> with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in
            <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore’s</persName> so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the
            infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. <persName ref="#Berenson_Mrs">Berenson</persName> had written <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> a year or
            more ago, that his picture was a <persName ref="#Bugiardini_Giuliano">Bugiardini</persName> and not a Francia and the other day at
            <placeName ref="#Fiesole">Fiesole</placeName> he had shown him the photograph of this <placeName ref="#Turin">Turin</placeName> picture, and quite convinced him
            of <persName ref="#Bugiardini_Giuliano">Bugiardini</persName> as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too
            late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we
            drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and
            picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had
            finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were
            forced to leave the carriage - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I taking a cab to the hotel, and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
            <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is
            not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970503" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Monday, May 3d.</title></p>
            <p><title>Hotel Westminster - Paris.</title></p> 
            <p>Yesterday morning <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> seemed much better, but
            not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I went
            off at 10 o’clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and
            disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o’clock - 
            
            <pb n="126"/>
            <!--PAGE 126**-->
  
            and we starting for <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again
            for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the
            rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and
            quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian
            department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery
            - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to
            return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> by the <placeName ref="#Basel">Basle</placeName> and<placeName ref="#Lucerne"> Lucerne</placeName>
            route. We got away from <placeName ref="#Turin">Turin</placeName> at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved
            for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was
            beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so
            much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it
            was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing,
            tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine
            plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally
            fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o’clock we
            were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice
            before. <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970504" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Tuesday, May 4.</title></p> 
            <p>This morning I drove with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of
            field glasses for <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Fuli</persName>, and another 
            
            <pb n="127"/>
            <!--PAGE 127**--> 
            
            for <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName>. It was really cold, with
            piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at
            Choiseul to see <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. Taylor</persName> and <persName ref="#Taylor_Florence">Florence</persName> - and found them both with bad colds, and made
            them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970505" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday. May 5.</title></p>
            <p>A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o’clock in the afternoon: a
            charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes
            in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l’Industrie. At the time it was crowded with
            people representing the very best element in French society. The <persName ref="#Charlotte_Sophie_Duchess">Duchesse d’Alençon</persName>
            sister of the Queen of <placeName ref="#Austria">Austria</placeName> being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an
            instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole
            thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a
            charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of
            waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be
            rendered the thing was over - the <persName ref="#Charlotte_Sophie_Duchess">Duchesse d’Alençon</persName> was burned at her stall, and no
            remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the
            whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden
            - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a
            little snow.</p></div>
            
            <pb n="128"/>
            <!--PAGE 128**-->
                <div xml:id="EBA18970506" type="Entry">
            <p><title>Thursday. May 6.</title></p>
            <p>We have plunged into the travail of dress making
            and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily
            details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized
            world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and
            cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>. <persName ref="#Boal_Terry">Terry Boal</persName>arrived today
            from <placeName ref="#Thonon">Thonon</placeName> - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their
            home in <placeName ref="#Thonon">Thonon</placeName>. They are on their way to <placeName ref="#America">America</placeName> - and why they have left the baby, with
            the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain.</p>
            </div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970507" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Friday. May 7.</title></p> 
            <p>This is <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore’s</persName> birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a
            little festa this afternoon, and asked <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. Taylor</persName> and <persName ref="#Taylor_Florence">Florence</persName> to tea, and <persName ref="#Boal_Terry">Terry</persName> and
            Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in <persName ref="#Bull_Dr">Dr. Bull’s</persName>
            office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I tried to accomplish
            something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. <persName ref="#Taylor_Florence">Florence <sic>Talylor</sic></persName> came to dinner,
            and has gone to the Opera with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName>, to hear Lohengrin. The
            theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This
            morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the
            carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of
            the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of
            the young, the others in black.</p></div> 
            
            <pb n="129"/>
            <!--PAGE 129**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970516" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16.</title></p>
            <p>A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather
            and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> dressmakers and
            milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Taylors</persName>
            dined with us last night and said goodbye and <persName ref="#Boal_Terry">Terry</persName> and <persName ref="#Mathilde">Mathilde</persName> come to dine tonight.
            We are off tomorrow for <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName>, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted
            these last days because <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of <persName ref="#Botticelli_Sandro">Botticelli</persName>
            for which he has been bargaining since before we left <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName>. He has also stumbled upon a
            charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter
            the father of the Venetian school, <persName ref="#Vivarini_Bartolomeo">Bartolemmeo Vivarini</persName>. He saw it a few days ago at
            <persName ref="#Ruel_Durand_Paul">Durand-Ruel’s</persName> rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an
            auction or sale from an old <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did
            not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten.
            <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> wanted it from the first and took me and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> to see it - we were charmed.
            <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> heard that the
            Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to
            canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee -
            behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and
            reddened by time - signed -</p></div> 
            
            <pb n="130"/>
            <!--PAGE 130**-->
            
                <div xml:id="EBA18970521" type="Entry">
            <p><title>London - <name type="hotel" ref="#Hotel_Bristol">Hotel Bristol</name>.</title></p> 
            <p><title>Friday - May 21.</title></p> 
            <p>We came over from <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable
            cabin, in which <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way
            over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName> is very empty of
            Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen’s 60th anniversary of her reign -
            it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up
            everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy
            shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I go
            out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
            and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> go to <placeName ref="#Oxford">Oxford</placeName> to stay over Sunday.</p></div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970524" type="Entry">
            
            <p><title>Monday. May 24.</title></p>
            <p><persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I came back
            from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to
            those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so
            that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party -
            especially an interesting old woman, <persName ref="#Ogle_Ms">Miss Ogle</persName> of Northumberland and we talked and
            walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> sang to
            them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these
            English country houses. <persName ref="#Farrar_Gaspard">Gaspard Farrar</persName> came to dinner tonight.</p>
            </div> 
            
            <pb n="131"/>
            <!--PAGE 131**-->
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970526">
            
            <p><title>Wednesday evening.</title></p> 
            <p><title>May 26.</title></p>
            <p>We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather
            cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy
            shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at <persName ref="#Farrar_William_Sir">Sir William Farrars</persName> - and had a
            charming evening. <persName ref="#Farrar_William_Sir">Sir William</persName> in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and
            agreeable. To the play this evening: “My Friend the Prince”. Very laughable.</p></div> 
            
            <div xml:id="EBA18970530" type="Entry">
            
    		<p><title>Sunday - after Ascension.</title></p> 
           	<p><title> May 30.</title></p> 
            <p>We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks
            where we had lunch at the “Royal Crown” and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful
            house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I
            were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the
            house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park
            with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName>. <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName>
            was with us. On Friday, <persName ref="#Davis_Thedoore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the
            day cold and stormy. <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in
            the evening we all went to dine with <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> and his sister <persName ref="#Elwes_Cary_Winifride_Lady">Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes</persName>
            and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> sang a great deal - and it
            was after 12 o’clock when we came home. On Saturday <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> and <persName ref="#Elwes_Cary">Mr. Cary-Elwes</persName> came
            early, and <persName ref="Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> sang the 
            
            <pb n="132"/> 
            <!--PAGE 132**-->
            
            whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of
            the afternoon. Rain all day - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This
            morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>, <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and I, that we
            would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o’clock. Waited
            until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage,
            having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a
            hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was
            only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we
            found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday
            between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start
            for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours
            walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o’clock, <persName ref="#Davis_Annie">Mrs. Davis</persName>, and <persName ref="#Boal_Terry">Terry
            Boal</persName> and <persName ref="#Mathilde">Mathilde</persName> arrived from <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>.</p>
            </div>
            
            <div xml:id="EBA189700601" type="Entry"> 
            
            <p><title>Tuesday evening. June 1st.</title></p> 
            <p><persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> departed this
            morning for <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>. Afterwards <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I went to the stores, and at the top of
            the first stairc <name type="boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>, at Thubron’s yards. We left cards this afternoon on various
            friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. <persName ref="#Davis_Annie">Mrs. Davis</persName>, <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName>, <persName ref="#Boal_Terry">Terry
            Boal</persName> and <persName ref="#Mathilde">Mathilde</persName> all took an early 
            
            <pb n="133"/>
            
            <!--PAGE 133**-->
            dinner, and departed for the Military
            Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. <persName ref="#Elwes_Cary_Winifride_Lady">Lady Winifride</persName> and <persName ref="Elwes_Cary_Mr">Mr. Cary-Elwes</persName>,
            <persName ref="#Agnes_Lady">Lady Agnes</persName> and <persName ref="#Trafford_de_Mr">Mr. de Trafford</persName>, and <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Mr. Fielding</persName> came to dinner with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, and me at
            8 o’clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone.
            We are off tomorrow at noon for <placeName ref="#Liverpool">Liverpool</placeName> and will sail about 5 in the afternoon.<sic>11</sic></p>
            </div>
        </body>
    </text>
</TEI>