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volume-4_1896-1897.xml
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<TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0">
<teiHeader>
<fileDesc>
<titleStmt>
<title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
<author>
<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs Emma B. Andrews</persName>
</author>
<editor>
<persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
</editor>
<respStmt>
<resp>EBA Interns</resp>
<persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
<persName ref="#KV">Karena Vongampai</persName>
<persName ref="#AL">Amanda Li</persName>
<persName ref="#NS">Nitya Sampath</persName>
</respStmt>
</titleStmt>
<publicationStmt>
<publisher>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</publisher>
<address>
<addrLine>University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195 U.S.A.</addrLine>
</address>
<availability>
<licence target="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/">This work is
licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0
International License."></licence>
</availability>
<date when="2018"> 2011-2018 </date>
<distributor>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</distributor>
</publicationStmt>
<notesStmt>
<note>Volume 4 1896-1897</note>
</notesStmt>
<sourceDesc>
<bibl>
<title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
<author>
<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs. Emma B. Andrews</persName>
</author>
<orgName ref="#APS">The American Philsophical Society</orgName>
<address>
<addrLine>105 South Fifth Street Philadelphia, PA 19106</addrLine>
</address>
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<p>
<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma B. Andrews</persName> is best remembered
for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and
antiquities collector, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore M.
Davis</persName>. Traveling to <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>
with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages
along the <name type="river" ref="#Nile">Nile</name>, including his important
yet under-reported excavations of 20 significant tombs in the <placeName
ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Valley of the Kings</placeName>. <persName
ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma</persName> provides a vital commentary on the
archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time. She paints a revealing
picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific
literati in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at the dawn of the
twentieth century. To date, her diaries are unpublished; analysis of the
contents of 19 volumes will afford scholars and a general audience information
about an important historical resource for the first time. Since its inception
in 2010, the scope of our project has broadened to include the transcription and
digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden
Age' of Egyptian archaeology detailed in the Research section of this website.
The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project is one of the founding partners of Newbook
Digital Texts. We are proud to offer undergraduate and graduate Digital
Humanities education and internships.</p>
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<listPerson>
<person role="editor" sex="F">
<persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
<affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
<occupation>Affiliate Instructor</occupation>
<listEvent>
<event>
<p>Project Director 2010-present</p>
</event>
</listEvent>
</person>
<person role="intern" sex="F">
<persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
<affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
<occupation>Student Intern</occupation>
<listEvent>
<event>
<p>Team member 2015-2016</p>
</event>
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<text>
<body>
<div xml:id = "EBA18961117" type="Entry">
<pb n="073"/>
<!--PAGE 73**-->
<p><title>S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896</title></p>
<p>We sailed at 10 o’clock on Saturday the 14th -
<persName ref="#Convers_Mr"> Mr. Convers</persName>, <persName ref="#Lüling_Mr">Mr. Luling</persName> and <persName ref="#Jevons_Mr">Mr. Jevons</persName> were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and
the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters -
and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing.
The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen
upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the
light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide
waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white
foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion
of the night.</p>
<p>There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such
pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr. Doty</persName>, the Health Officer of the N.
Y. Port, <persName ref="#Ward Howe_Mrs_Elliot">Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot</persName>, the daughter of <persName ref ="#Ward Howe_Mrs_Julia">Mrs. Julia Ward Howe</persName> - and a <persName ref="#Pratt_Mr">Mr. Pratt</persName> -
now American Consul General at <placeName ref="#Singapore">Singapore</placeName>, and for five years our Minister to <placeName ref="#Persia">Persia</placeName> - a
really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry -
and we have <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs. Bend</persName> of <placeName ref="#New York">New York</placeName> and her two daughters at our table. I asked <persName ref="#Pratt_Mr">Mr. Pratt</persName>
how long <persName ref="#Benjamin">Benjamin</persName>, former Minister to <placeName ref="#Persia">Persia</placeName>, had lived in that country, and he said 3
years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to
write an exhaustive work. He <corr>tole</corr> me <persName ref="#Benjamin">Benjamin</persName> had given great offence to the Shela, and
others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of <placeName ref="#Persia">Persia</placeName> about
which he writes.</p>
</div>
<pb n="074"/>
<!--PAGE 74**-->
<div xml:id = "EBA18961127" type="Entry">
<p><title>Nov. 27.</title></p>
<p>We will reach <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> in a few hours, and I will gladly
say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until
we reached <placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName> our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed <placeName ref="#the_Azoros">the Azores</placeName> on the
20th - running very close to the large island of <placeName ref="#San Miguel">San Miguel</placeName> - very picturesque with its
background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top
- its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where
immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached
<placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName>, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took <persName ref="#Bend_Beatrice">Beatrice Bend</persName> in
our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain
began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and
wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on
the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago.
<persName ref="#Theodore_Davis">Theodore</persName> went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of
macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender.
From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent
and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we
dropped our anchor in the bay of <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I
went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took
immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs.
Bend</persName> arrived from the
<pb n="075"/>
<!--PAGE 75** -->
Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short
visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then
we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments
at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running
smoothly this morning.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA1896126" type="Entry">
<p><title><name type="boat" ref="#S.S. Freiderick der Grosser">S.S. Freiderick der Grosser</name>.</title></p>
<p><title>near Port Said.</title></p>
<p><title>Dec. 6</title></p>
<p>I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at
Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> on the <date>27 Nov.</date> just too late to
catch the only train to <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House,
made a long journey through the streets of the town to the “Hotel du Pare” a rather
attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be
cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly
disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows
shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the
night. The next day we were off for <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> at 12 o’clock - which we reached at 7 P.M.
- a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and <persName ref="#Hassan">Hassan</persName> were
waiting for us, and went with us to <name type="hotel" ref="#the Grande Bretagne">the Grande Bretagne</name>, where we were installed in our
old appartment. <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning
with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>
went to the Uffizzi -
<pb n="076"/>
<!--PAGE 76** -->
<persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> to do as much of the town as they
could. <persName ref="#Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after
which a drive to <placeName ref="#Fiesole">Fiesole</placeName>, and the rest of the time with <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> in their pretty little
appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. <persName ref="#Berenson">Berenson</persName> also came
to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> again, with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> along
and went for the night to the “Hotel Isotta”, much more comfortable than the other. At 2
o’clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble
and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co.
we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and
aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o’clock the next morning for <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName>. We found
the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she
only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to <placeName ref="#Australia">Australia</placeName>
- her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> the next
morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - <orgName ref="#Peabody_Dr_and_family">Dr. Peabody and
family</orgName>, <persName ref="#Pratt_Mr">Mr. Pratt</persName> and <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr. Doty</persName> arrived in the afternoon. So did the <persName ref="#Wilhelm_Kaiser">Kaiser Wilhelm</persName>, just
from <placeName ref="#New York">New York</placeName>, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for
<placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which
is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName>.</p>
</div>
<pb n="077"/>
<!--PAGE 77**-->
<div xml:id="EBA18961209" type="Entry">
<p><name type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards_Hotel">Shepheards Hotel</name>.</p>
<p><title><placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>. Dec. 9 - 96</title></p>
<p>We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession
of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the
6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly
along until she dropped anchor at <placeName ref="#Port Said">Port Said</placeName> about 2 o’clock A.M. There was but little
sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the
stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of
the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o’clock <persName ref="#Amilie">Amilie</persName> came to call me, and I
was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House,
and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for <placeName ref="#Ismaïlia">Ismailia</placeName>, where we
got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for
the <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad
one for <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our
boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not
raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> is quite ineffectual -
and <persName ref="#Thubron">Thubron</persName> has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and
in sailing order for the <date>1st of Dec.</date> as the contract calls for - <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> has evidently
given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at <placeName ref="#Dongola">Dongola</placeName> for
3 months - and has allowed the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> to care for herself. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> with admirable
patience made
<pb n="078"/>
<!--PAGE 78**-->
himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods
and incompetency, and then he went for <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> and his foreman, with such well directed
effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and
the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred
practical details.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18961213" type="Entry">
<p><title>Sunday, Dec. 13.</title></p>
<p><persName ref="Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> have gone off in the carriage with
<persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> to see the <placeName ref="#Tombs_of_the Mameluks_and_the_Khalifs">Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs</placeName> - <persName ref="#Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr. Doty</persName> and <persName ref="#Peabody_Dr">Dr.
Peabody</persName>, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch
and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the <date>1st of January</date>. The
great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName> until the <date>6th of
<corr>Dec.!</corr></date> We have engaged our old cook <persName ref="Ibrahim_Hanna">Hanna</persName> - poor <persName ref="#Selim">Selim</persName> having died here not more than a
month ago - <persName ref="#Ibraim_Hanna">Hanna</persName> speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising
young Nubian as waiter whom <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> knows very well, and who has lived for years in
<placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>, we can get on very well. <persName ref="#Ibrahim_Hanna">Ibrahim</persName> too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and
my <persName ref="#Ibrahim_Mohammed">Mohammed Ibrahim</persName> is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more
English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how
much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
gave a dinner last night, and had <persName ref="#Sandwith_Dr">Dr. Sandwith</persName> and <persName ref="#Peabody_Dr">Peabody</persName> and <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Doty</persName>. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I had
a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the <placeName ref="#Ghezireh_Palace">Ghezireh Palace</placeName>, and walked about
the shady avenues
<pb n="079"/>
<!--PAGE 79**-->
and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of <persName ref="#Sandwith_Dr">Dr.
Sandwith</persName> and <persName ref="#Sandiwth_Mrs">Mrs. Sandwith</persName> on our way home.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18961227" type="Entry">
<p><title><name type="hotel" ref="#Ghesireh_Palace_Hotel">Ghesireh Palace Hotel</name>.</title></p>
<p><title>Dec. 27.</title></p>
<p>We left <name type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards_Hotel">Shepheards</name> this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> and
are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and
look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the
present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the
awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only
in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems
to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many
vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore’s</persName>
apparent patience with <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName> and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so
long in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>, certainly of the
life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of
<persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time
in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970103" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 3. Second Sunday after Christmas.</title></p>
<p>Still waiting impatiently to get off -
some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome -
<!--PAGE 80**-->
<pb n="080"/>
Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a
week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with
tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid <placeName ref="Boulak-Ramleh">Boulak-Ramleh
quarter</placeName> - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can
relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it
unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to
make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big,
or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the
carriage with <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName>, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little
second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I
bought finger bowls, caraffes - <sic>liqeur</sic> glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap
dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the <name type="boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> is so comfortable and so
convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take
possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> winter weather
for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be
unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never
think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But
my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms,
a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are
strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the
windows. But two or
<pb n="081"/>
<!--PAGE 81**-->
three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the
waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for
the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal,
the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was
scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that
there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely
pieces of ornamental furniture. <name type ="boat" ref="Beduin">Dahabeah “Beduin</name>”.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970111" type="Entry">
<p><title>Monday, Jan. 11. 1897.</title></p>
<p>We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to <placeName ref="#Bedrasheen">Bedrasheen</placeName>, where we are
now lying. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the
Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the <name type="boat" ref="Beduin">Beduin</name>, under convoy of
the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o’clock. Just as we
reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our “<name type="boat" ref="Beduin">Beduin</name>”
stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her
go by - and I heard her pronounced the “handsomest craft on the river”. Immediately
after lunch, when poor <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the
bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks
were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us,
until we came down. In the midst of it, <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. and Miss Taylor</persName> arrived for a parting
visit. Then there was the “debbil to pay” as dear old <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> would say, as <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
<!--PAGE 82**-->
<pb n="082"/>
discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than
above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>; they had no
food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt
blessing from us all to the impossible <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubron</persName>, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been
working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are
happy, if not yet in order.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970112" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 12.</title></p>
<p>We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere
between <placeName ref="#Bedreschein">Bedreschein</placeName> and <placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName>. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2
miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at
all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various
“désagrémens” have developed themselves, the most important of which is old <sic><persName ref="#Ibrahim_Hanna">Henna</persName></sic>, our
cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the <name type="boat" ref="#Herodotus">Herodotus</name> has taken fright at the range in
his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread
with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten
sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so
pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of
anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty
chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere -
with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely
perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown
<pb n="083"/>
<!--PAGE 83**-->
wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But
best of all, the <name type ="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier
man on earth than our <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He
has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our
dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and
has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the
river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be
his house summer as well as winter - and he will get £3. a month and during the summer
feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I
never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with “<name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>” in blue
letters across the breast, they look very well.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970113" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 13.</title></p>
<p>Made 23 miles - are now lying
near <placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName> - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very
busy settling.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970114" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 14.</title></p>
<p>Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on
my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed <placeName ref="#Benisoef">Benisoef</placeName> about noon - ran
until 8 o’clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.</p></div>
<pb n="084"/>
<!--PAGE 84**-->
<div xml:id="EBA18970115" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 15th.</title></p>
<p>A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o’clock P.M. within 3 miles of <placeName ref="#Golasseheh">Golasseheh</placeName> -
busy all day - made 57 miles.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970116" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 16.</title></p>
<p>I wakened before it was light this morning and
heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a
little after 7 o’clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the
Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName> at
11 o’clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51
miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug
off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This
morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to
us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now
resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o’clock
72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this
morning.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970117" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 17.</title></p>
<p>Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There
has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the
matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered.
<pb n="085"/>
<!--PAGE 85**-->
We are now within 4 miles of <placeName ref="#Gebal_Abu_Fedah">Gebel Abou Fedah</placeName> - day has been overcast, and a little cool.
Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970118" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 18.</title></p>
<p>A very disappointing day. <persName ref="#Thubron_Blakelock_Ernest">Thubrons</persName>
wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer
reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for
several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way.
So <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to “see in the
boiler” as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking
about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing
to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us
to do, to paddle back to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a
very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o’clock,
watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the <placeName ref="#Gebel_Abu_Fedah">Gebel Abu-Fedah</placeName> chain.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970119" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 19.</title></p>
<p>We began tracking a little after seven o’clock this morning - a very little south wind made
it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The
English dahabeah <name type="#boat" ref="#Thames">Thames</name> passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug,
and
<pb n="086"/>
<!--PAGE 86**-->
they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>.
A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the <placeName ref="Bar_Jusef_canal">Bar Jusef canal</placeName> - larks singing
- wheat to my knees.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970120" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 20.</title></p>
<p>A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze
that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled
to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this
afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so
threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o’clock the gale broke upon us - but
no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air
has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970121" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 21.</title></p>
<p>We began sailing at 8 o’clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the <name type="#boat" ref="Beduin">Beduin</name> had her
first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the
great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on
the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too
strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the
sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then
shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt
on the
<pb n="087"/>
<!--PAGE 87**-->
Nile - but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In
the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in
collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our
sides a little to the great distress of <persName ref="#Rais_Fuli">Rais Fuli</persName> - but no real harm done. In swinging
round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand
- and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach <placeName ref="Asyut">Assiut</placeName> until after 5
P.M. - too late to go into the town - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> and <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> set off for the P.O.
We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun’s for which we had written - and the
box of table linen from <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>. The “Thames” lying opposite <placeName ref="#Asyut">Asyut</placeName>. We made about 30
miles today.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970122" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 22.</title></p>
<p><persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I took <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> this morning, and rowed down to the town,
and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars,
to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to
their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them
before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European
dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us
everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season
practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had
never seen before, which he called “Kishta” or cream. It seems it is an imported
delicacy
<pb n="088"/>
<!--PAGE 88**-->
from the <placeName ref="#West_Indies">West Indies</placeName> - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were
not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as
polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being
too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2
American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something.
There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the “Ramesis the Great” from up the
river, and the ”Ramesis” from <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> arrived, and were near us. On the former were the
Case family from <placeName ref="#Boston">Boston</placeName>, people who were on the Gens, and whom <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> knew. They came
aboard to see the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full
moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about
<placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970123" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 23d.</title></p>
<p>We are still in sight of <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName> - though we have made 5 miles by
tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName>
and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and
working.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970124" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 24. Third Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
<p>A day of almost perfect calm - by
tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15
miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink,
gray heat.</p></div>
<pb n="089"/>
<!--PAGE 89**-->
<div xml:id="EBA18970125" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 25.</title></p>
<p>Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o’clock the wind
came up, and we got about an hour’s sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking
and poling, brought us within 10 miles of <placeName ref="#Tahtah">Tahtah</placeName> - making 12 miles altogether. <name type="#boat" ref="#The_Mena">The Mena</name>,
flying the English flag - and <name type="#boat" ref="#the_Elephantine">the Elephantine</name> flying the French flag, passed us today -
and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970126" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 26.</title></p>
<p>A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are
tonight 5 miles from <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> - passed <placeName ref="#Tahtah">Tahtah</placeName> at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole
day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and
exhilerating, that seems to renew one’s life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of
El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of
roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything
but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the
banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their
loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working
sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can
be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and
men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their
animals before them, or dragging them
<pb n="090"/>
<!--PAGE 90**-->
after. It is no unusual thing to see
donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing
3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a
time.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970127" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 27.</title></p>
<p>Started this morning in a strong wind and came to <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> just as breakfast
was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged
along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour -
and in the mean time we bought some of the bright <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName> cloths which a merchant was
displaying on the bank. They used to be made in <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName>, but I suspect they more often
now, come from <placeName ref="#Birmingham">Birmingham</placeName>, <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and
south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the <name type="#boat" ref="#Herodotus">Herodotus</name> - and
again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> - for
the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite
<placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName>. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to
keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river
near <placeName ref="#Kafr'akim">Akmim</placeName> - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged
at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970128" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 28.</title></p>
<p>We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o’clock with a
<pb n="091"/>
<!--PAGE 91**-->
fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at <placeName ref="#Balliana">Balliana</placeName> for more than 2 hours.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970129" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 29.</title></p>
<p>With the exception of <date>Jan. 15</date>, we have made
today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near <placeName ref="#Qena">Keneh</placeName>. Passed the <name type="boat" ref="#Philetus">Philetus</name>
- like a dream.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970130" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 30.</title></p>
<p>A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970131" type="Entry">
<p><title>Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
<p>We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> at 4:30
- having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and
poled. About 11 o’clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then
her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for
a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> the same
time as the <placeName ref="#Manhattan">Manhattan</placeName>, and just behind the <name type="boat" ref="#Zenet-el_Nil">Zenet-el Nil</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Sesostris">the Sesostris</name> and <name type ="boat" ref="Ammon_Ra">the Ammon Ra</name>
- in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town,
and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders
of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and
newspapers.</p></div>
<pb n="092"/>
<!--PAGE 92**-->
<div xml:id="EBA18970203" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 3. Luxor.</title></p>
<p>We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days -
yesterday neither <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank,
we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed -
doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated
everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across
the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for
the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions -
for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more
favorable weather. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention
of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our
heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and
came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> came to see us soon
after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to
let us beat his <name type="boat" ref="Zenet-el_Nil">Zenet-el Nil</name> - <persName ref="#Goleinschief_M">M. Goleinschief’s</persName> boat, of which he has charge. Old
<persName ref="#Mohammed_Mohassib">Mohammed Mohassib</persName> also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our
little gifts to him. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I
have not yet seen it. <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mr">Mr. Baldwin</persName> who is on the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name>, with his wife, and son-in-law,
<persName ref="#Grinell_Mr">Dr. Grinell</persName> - was here today. <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mrs">Mrs. Baldwin</persName> is very wretched since she came on the river.
They want us to start for <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> when they do. The Fell party on the <name type="#boat" ref="#Zenet-el_Fil">Zenet-el-Fil</name> go
back to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> from here - much to <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah’s</persName>
<pb n="093"/>
<!--PAGE 93**-->
disgust. This morning we had a visit
from <persName ref="#Huhatt_Mr">Rev. Mr. Huhatt</persName> - the English clergyman at <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>, and <persName ref="#Coulson_Mr">Mr. Coulson</persName> - they begged us
to go to the <name type="hotel" ref="#Luxor_Hotel">Luxor Hotel</name> to a “Cinderella Fancy Dress” Ball for the benefit of the
little Hospital here.<persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan
begins today - very early this year. <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970205" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 5.</title></p>
<p>Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I
saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old <persName ref="#Beato_Felice">Beato</persName>, who afterwards came into
the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to
the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over
the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> at Medinet to finish her sketches It
was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970206" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 6.</title></p>
<p>We did not much want to leave <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>
this morning - but as <persName ref="#Baldwin_Mrs">Mrs. Baldwin</persName> has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it
was today or next week - and as <persName ref="Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the
<name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> with the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Re</name>, <persName ref="#Cook_Thomas">Cooks</persName> best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty
minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we
had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight
of our own. Indeed <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too
<pb n="094"/>
<!--PAGE 94**-->
exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About
6 o’clock after much tracking we pulled up near <placeName ref="#Erment">Erment</placeName> where we now are. I was rather
sorry to leave <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to <placeName ref="#Karnak">Karnak</placeName> in the
morning - the races in the afternoon - <persName ref="#Huhatt_Mr">Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt</persName>, <persName ref="#Brown_Mr">Mr. and Mrs. Brown</persName> - <persName ref="Scott_Miss">Miss
Scott</persName> - and <persName ref="Norton_Miss">Miss Norton</persName>, to tea at 5 o’clock, and <persName ref="#Billings_Laura">Laura Billings</persName> and her sister and <persName ref="#Fahnestock_Mr">Mr.
Fahenstock</persName> of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some
splendid red roses from the <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the
Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for <persName ref="#Zenobia">Zenobia</persName>, my
little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had
an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> had, for she could speak only
Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> - pleasant airy
courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself,
clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of “The Abbess” of
<persName ref="Moroni_Battista_Giovanni">Moroni</persName> - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. <persName ref="#Zenobia">Zenobia</persName>, her father, and her
sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The
sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and
<persName ref="#Zenobia">Zenobia</persName> as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be
impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American
Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt
and poverty. For the first time at <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>, I rode in one of the carriages,
<pb n="095"/>
<!--PAGE 95**--> 2 or 3
of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn’t
like to see such unnecessary innovations.</p>
</div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970207" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 7. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
<p>We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and
the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the
<name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at <placeName ref="#Esneh">Esneh</placeName> at 7:30 - but the wind coming out
strong at 9 o’clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one
o’clock, when we pulled up at <placeName ref="#El_Kab">Al-Kab</placeName> having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a
wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent -
and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970208" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 8th.</title></p>
<p>Did not sail early this morning -
and as we began tracking about 11, the <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon-Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> appeared in sight. At 2 o’clock we
pulled up at <placeName ref="#El_Kab">Al-Kab</placeName>, to see <persName ref="Clarke_Somers_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> - who is living there on his dahabeah at
work at excavations. He came on the <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> for a short visit, and it was quite an hour
before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an
hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfou</placeName> about 5 o’clock - what
beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about
5 miles above <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfou</placeName> - and have made 24 miles today. The <name type="#boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> seems to sail almost
without wind - so smoothly she glided along
<pb n="096"/>
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mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970209" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 9.</title></p>
<p>I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind -
but at 7 o’clock we passed <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsilis</placeName>, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect
night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsileh</placeName> rocks, as it was
growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple -
everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. <name type="#boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> came
up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner <persName ref="Grinell_Dr">Dr. and Mrs. Grinell</persName>
came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of
my long indolence.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970210" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 10.</title></p>
<p>A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up,
with the <name type="#boat" ref="Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good
wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o’clock - 2 miles above <placeName ref="Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName> which was
beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970211" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 11. Thuesday. Assouan.</title></p>
<p>Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o’clock, with the <name type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon-Ra</name> and
<name type="boat" ref="#Manhattan">Manhattan</name> within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of
both boats. Passed the <name type="boat" ref="Gazelle">Gazelle</name>
<pb n="097"/>
<!--PAGE 97**-->
just below <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> on her way down. Found the
“Sesostris”, <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">“Istar”</name>, “<name type="boat" ref="#Phietus">"Philetus”</name> and <name type="boat" ref="#Thames">“Thames”</name> here at Elephantine - and now that the
<name type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">“Ammon-Ra”</name> and <name type="boat" ref="Manhattan">"Manhattan”</name> have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The <name type="boat" ref="#Philetus">Philetus</name> started
this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the
Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of
expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>.</p>
</div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970212" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 12.</title></p>
<p>Went over to Philae by train - <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> and I - with all our entourage of servants
and sailors and hampers - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Clarence">Clarence</persName> following later on their donkeys, in
time for lunch. I found <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors
that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide -
<persName ref="#Dendowi">Dendowi</persName> too, the unapproachable - who appropriated <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> for the day. <persName ref="#Newman_Mr_Mrs">Newmans</persName> not here
this year. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName> at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and
after wandering about and photographing all the children and <persName ref="#Mohammet">Mohammet</persName> the sailor, I
established myself in the long colonnade near <persName ref="#Newberry_Mary">Mary</persName>, out of the sun, and wind - and read
- while <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> and <persName ref="#Ibrahim">Ibrahim</persName> got the lunch ready - I made <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> and the children sing for
me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft
and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the
cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a
constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express
<pb n="098"/>
<!--PAGE 98**-->
sleep - I asked <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> what the song was, and they all replied that it was the “<placeName ref="#Dongola">Dongola</placeName>“ song -
and when I asked what it meant, <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> replied that it was a slumber song (though of
course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was
telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in <placeName ref="#Dongola">Dongola</placeName>, here it
was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one
song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of
the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the
island gave a very good idea of the extent of <persName ref="#Lyons_Capt">Capt. Lyons</persName> work and explorations of last
year. <persName ref="#Grinnell_Dr_Mrs">Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell</persName> also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh’s Bed. We
came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> and <persName ref="#Dendowi">Dendowi</persName> with us to show them
the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970217" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb 17.</title></p>
<p>Before 5 o’clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was
taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting
ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> - the pleasantest I
have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite
at home. <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced
with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the
river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses,
<pb n="099"/>
<!--PAGE 99**-->
which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no
soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than
any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being
so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> and <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Lord
Fitz-Hardinge</persName> came to call. The <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinges_Lord">Fitz-Hardinges</persName> have the little <name type="boat" ref="#Thames">Thames</name> which they built
years ago - and <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> on his <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young
fellow with the <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinges_Lord">Fitz-Hardinges</persName>, <persName ref="#Bridgman_Dr">Dr. Bridgman</persName>, who found him an enthusiastic gardener,
and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>.
We had <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a
great many things we wanted to know. We left <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Lord Fitz-Hardinge</persName> very ill - with
threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having
formerly known of him as <persName ref="#Fitz_Hardinge_Lord">Hon. Mr. Berkeley</persName>. With this title which is one of the oldest
in <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>, dating from the time of <persName ref="#King_Stephen">King Stephen</persName>, he has become owner of <placeName ref="Berkeley_Castle">Berkeley Castle</placeName>
one of the most interesting historical Castles of <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>, and also to an income of
£70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes
- devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change
of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for
which they have no liking. The next heir, is <persName ref="#Berkeley_Lord">Lord Berkeley</persName> of <placeName ref="#Oxford">Oxford</placeName> - a man no longer
young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads
the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest
of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 £s
<pb n="100"/>
<!--PAGE 100**-->
to spend a year! <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName>
on the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us
yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel -
one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance
with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that
at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the
cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>
near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most
resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides,
glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed,
and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside
beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and
looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!</p>
</div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970218" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 18.</title></p>
<p>We made about 3
miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we
gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> almost a
mile below us. <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did
going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current,
and there really were waves. We had a charming visit <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. S.</persName> Showing us some of his
interesting works on <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> - <persName ref="#Belzoni_Giovanni">Belzoni’s</persName> splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures
of the temples and
<pb n="101"/>
<!-- PAGE 101**-->
tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably
accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant
of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great
Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the
travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which <persName ref="#Amory_Howard">Howard Amory</persName> gave me from his
grandfather’s library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian “del
Valle” in 16____. The <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable -
20 ft. wide. We and <persName ref="Cook_Thomas">Cooks</persName> new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon,
and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a
library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. S.</persName>
says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as
strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the
river as we have been doing all day.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970219" type="Entry">
<p><title>Friday. Feb. 19.</title></p>
<p>We began the morning very early
with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon
the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> suggested an
anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading
<persName ref="#Stevenson_Louis_Robert">Stevenson’s</persName> “South-Sea Sketches”, and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are
now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on.</p></div>
<!--PAGE 120**-->
<pb n="120"/>
<div xml:id="EBA18970220" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 20.</title></p>
<p>I had quite an
attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from
sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o’clock - that the
gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back
to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began
reading <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce’s</persName> “Egypt of the Hebrews”. Last night we got away from our lee shore,
and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly.
Read aloud a long time in <persName ref="#Milner_Alfred">Milner’s</persName> “England in Egypt”.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970221" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday.</title></p>
<p>The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I
saw <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName> directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on
its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is
charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much
swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as
<sic><persName ref="#Gaze_Henry">Gage’s</persName></sic> Steamer “<name type="#boat" ref="#Memphis">Memphis</name>” was coming up to her landing. Passed the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> lying by a
little below <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName>. This is our 5th day from <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>, and we have only covered 29
miles.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970222" type="Entry">
<p><title>Feb. 22. Monday.</title></p>
<p>We were off before 6 o’clock this morning - rowing - and in the
face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness -
<pb n="103"/>
<!--PAGE 103**-->
we passed <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsilis</placeName> about 3 o’clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour
afterwards we had gained very much upon the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> - and our men were pulling lustily -
when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went
rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7
o’clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a
pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsilis</placeName> -
making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion
of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice <persName ref="#Mathar">Mathar</persName>, the 2d captain,
hasn’t even a smile - <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping
it.</p></div>
<div xml:id="EBA18970223" type="Entry">
<p><title>Tuesday. Feb. 23.</title></p>
<p>We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>> -
there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to
leave her, that the 10 days between <date>March 23</date> and <date>April 3d</date> when we leave for <sic><placeName ref="#Brindisi">Hrindisi</placeName></sic>
will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we
started out before 6 - and when <persName ref="#Ainely">Ainely</persName> came to my room, she reported the <name type="#boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> some
distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the
<name type="#boat" ref="#Gazelle">Gazelle</name>, which left <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>, the day we arrived. Yesterday the <name type="#Nephtis">Nephtis</name> passed up, with
the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a
grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told -
and jumped from
<pb n="104"/>
<!--PAGE 104**-->
a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions.
A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.</p></div>