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aldenhart edited this page Oct 12, 2014 · 33 revisions

This is a jump page for all information related to test jigs and test procedures

#Building Test Jigs The rest of this page is a collection of random notes on building test jigs. Mostly it's a record of mistakes to be avoided.

Making the pogo board

  • Design and manufacture tester PCB from 0.93" FR4
    • Use socketed pogo pins (exclusively). IDI on Mouser. Expensive but worth it
    • Use 4/40 hw for standoffs - 0.125 ID holes, 0.250" clearance
    • Pogo holes 0.063" (see below)
  • Laser cut a spacer plate of 1/16" clear plexi to line up the pogo sockets
  • Use IDI Size 3 preferentially - 0.125" centers
    • Tester board holes 0.063"
    • Spacer plate holes 0.095"
    • Parts
      • R-3-SC receptacles (sockets)
      • S-3-H-4-G waffle head
      • S-3-A-4-G cup head
      • S-3-B-7-G spear
  • Use 0.100" only for those things that require tighter spacing
    • Tester board holes 0.063"
    • Spacer plate holes 0.067"
    • Parts
      • R-100-SC receptacles (sockets)
      • S-100-WO-8-G-S crown head
      • S-100-A-6.7-G cup head
      • S-100-J-6.7-G headless radius
      • S-100-B-6.7-G headless spear
      • S-100-AP-6.7-G-S headless sharp chisel
  • Assemble all electronics first before attaching pogo pins
    • e.g. regulators, connectors...
  • Attaching pogo receptacles to tester board
    • Insert receptacles into all holes to be filled
    • Position spacer plate roughly over holes
    • Insert pogos through plate to line up pogo receptacles with spacer plate holes
    • Carefully work the plate onto the pogos
      • Stop at the annular detent ring
      • Push too hard and will crack the plate
    • Before soldering - ensure first pogo is at right angle to the board!!! Very important!!!
    • Solder it and do another pogo at the far end, also at a right angle
    • Solder only on the side with the trace to make removal easier (if you eventually need it)
    • Do not flex the sockets. They will break off at the collar
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