Merge branch 'master' into feature/maxou/sg1-gate-start

Build-Instructions/Build-Manual-0.md

@@ -32,7 +32,7 @@
 | Privacy film  | 25x25 cm at least | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967449727.html |
 | Copper tape  | 1 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822966859.html |
 | Plexiglass 20x20cm (recommend buying spare)  | 1 + 1 spare | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32833660352.html |
-| Servo 9g | 1 | https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Servo-num%C3%A9rique-Micro-Metal-mod%C3%A8le/dp/B07FPJYM5T | I tried cheap one but they proved to be problematic, one died suddently and the other draw too much current sometime. You may have to invest in something better.
+| Servo 9g | 1 | https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Servo-num%C3%A9rique-Micro-Metal-mod%C3%A8le/dp/B07FPJYM5T | We tried cheap one but they proved to be problematic, one died suddently and the other draw too much current sometime. You may have to invest in something better.
 | M2 screws kit | 1 | https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Hilitchi-Assortiment-hexagonale-acier-inoxydable/dp/B014ONS02S | You needs several lengths
 | M3 screws kit | 1 | https://www.amazon.ca/Assortiment-cruciformes-cylindrique-acier-inoxydable/dp/B075RCVVYN/ | You needs several lengths
 
@@ -44,7 +44,7 @@
 
 ## Recommendations
 
-Parts are printed are very high resolution (by FDM standard) and last for several days in some case, it's very important to have a good way to ensure it stick in place.
+Parts are printed at very high resolution (by FDM standard) and printing require for several days in some case. It's very important to have a good way to ensure it sticks in place.
 
 | Description | Quantity | URL
 |---|---|---|
@@ -64,12 +64,12 @@ Parts are printed are very high resolution (by FDM standard) and last for severa
 
 ## Required plastics
 
-Basically color is up to you, but you will probably needs at least 3 colors.
-Nothing prevent you from painting parts if you can't find the right plastic color. If you do I suggest using dark PLA before painting for the ring, to be sure it doesn't have light leaking.
+Basically color is up to you, but you will probably needs at least 3 colors.<br>
+Nothing prevent you from painting parts if you can't find the right plastic color. If you do it, we suggest using dark PLA before painting over the ring, to be sure lights do not leak.
 
 | Color | Used for | Comments
 |---|---|---|
-| Dark gray or black PLA | Ring | The ring in the serie is almost black if not black. The one I made was gray but not dark enough, if I could do it again I would likely make it black |
-| Transparent PLA | Ring | Used for chevron illumination and light diffusion. It may be possible to use white instead but I suggest you to test it before commiting yourself.
-| White PLA | Ring/Base | Used for reflector but can be used for any parts that is not visible. (example, bearing module, inner ring, alignment block etc ...)
-| Sand PLA | Base | Sand like color, yes I realise there are many possible color for sand so let's say the same color as egypt pyramid?
+| Dark gray or black PLA | Ring | The ring in the serie is almost black if not black. The one we made was gray but not dark enough, if we could do it again we would likely make it black |
+| Transparent PLA | Ring | Used for chevron illumination and light diffusion. It may be possible to use white instead but we suggest you to test it before commiting yourself.
+| White PLA | Ring/Base | Used for reflectors but can be used for any parts that is not visible. (example, bearing module, inner ring, alignment block etc ...)
+| Sand PLA | Base | Sand like color, yes we realise there are many possible color for sand so let's say the same color as pyramid of egypt?

Build-Instructions/Build-Manual-1.md

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
 
 ## Before printing
 
-We provide "TestPart-Stargate-Front.stl" part to test printing 1/9 of the front stargate part.
+We provide "TestPart-Stargate-Front.stl" part to test printing 1/9 of the front stargate part.<br>
 It allows you to test material or print settings before doing the big part.
 
 We recommend you to print these parts using the color or plastic of your choice :
@@ -12,9 +12,9 @@ We recommend you to print these parts using the color or plastic of your choice
 - symbol-light-guide_0.2mm-x36.stl
 - symbol-template1_0.2mm-x1.stl
 
-It is better if you also have one WS2812B to test the chevron and symbol lightning.
-The LED shouldn't be at full power to test symbols, only 10/255 PWM is enough to see it clearly.
-It could be higher for chevron but your don't gain anything going further than 220/255 except excessive power loss.
+It is better if you also have one WS2812B to test the chevron and symbol lightning.<br>
+The LED shouldn't be at full power to test symbols, only 5/255 PWM is enough to see it clearly.<br>
+It could be higher for chevron but your don't gain anything going beyond 160/255 except excessive power loss.<br>
 
 If you want to use a resin printer for symbols you can, but you will likely have to paint them because resin transparency is not adequate in our experience.
 

Build-Instructions/Build-Manual-Base-1.md

@@ -1,16 +1,16 @@
 # Base assembly
 
-Don't worry about the ringmotor assembly, it could be inserted later.
-It is designed to be easily dismantlable.
+Don't worry about the ringmotor assembly, it could be inserted later.<br>
+It is designed to be easy to disassemble.
 
- - You need a lot of small clamp if you want to do a decent job. I have found them at dollar store and they worth every penny.
+ - You need a lot of small clamp if you want to do a decent job. we have found them at dollar store and they worth every penny.
  - Gorilla glue or canopy glue
 
  ![](./Assets/Outer-assembly-part-clamp-example.png)
 
 ## Glue base parts #1
 
-Glue all those parts together, use the picture to guide you.
+Glue all those parts together, use the picture to guide you.<br>
 You needs those part to continue:
 
  - Outer-bottom-plate_4mm-x1.stl
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@ Glue Outer-back-plate_4mm-x1.stl to the existing base part #1.
 
 You needs to ensure "Bottom-plate-v2_4mm-x1.stl" is in place, IT SHOULDN'T BE GLUED! The part is designed to be removable. It's only there to use as a guide when "Mechanic-Anchor-L_4mm-x1.stl" and "Mechanic-Anchor-R_4mm-x1.stl" get glued.
 
-Ensure to not accidentally glue anything else, don't put too much glue.
+Ensure to not accidentally glue anything else, don't put too much glue.<br>
 Use clamps to hold these parts in place.
 
 To be glued to "Outer-bottom-plate_4mm-x1.stl"
@@ -52,14 +52,14 @@ It should looks like this once once you remove "Mechanic-Archor-p2-L_4mm-x1.stl"
 
 ## Install M2 screws
 
-You needs two M2 nuts and a soldering iron or a ligher.
-You need to push heated M2 nuts into designated holes. Be careful to now overheat.
+You need two M2 nuts and a soldering iron or a ligher.<br>
+You need to push heated M2 nuts into their designated holes. Be careful to not overheat.
 
 ![](./Assets/Outer-assembly-part6.png)
 
 ## Glue base parts #4
 
-Glue side covers, you needs to use clamp and maybe tape. Use painter tape where clamps are not a good option.
+Glue side covers, you needs to use clamp and maybe tape. You can use painter tape where clamps are not a good option.
 
 - Side-back-cover-L_4mm-x1.stl
 - Side-back-cover-R_4mm-x1.stl
@@ -68,15 +68,15 @@ Glue side covers, you needs to use clamp and maybe tape. Use painter tape where
 
 ![](./Assets/Outer-assembly-part5.png)
 
-Overcovers are not mandatory, they correct a mistake I made on the side cover STL.
-I could have corrected it but I feared I would introduce more errors.
+Overcovers are not mandatory, they correct a mistake we made on the side cover STL.<br>
+we could have corrected it but we feared it could introduce more errors.
 
 ![](./Assets/install-overcovers-x2.png)
 
 ## Install RingMotor assembly in place
 
-You can install the ring motor assembly if you want.
-All you have to do is insert the assembly where it should go then slide these parts:
+You can install the ring motor assembly if you want.<br>
+All you have to do is insert the assembly where it should go then slide these parts:<br>
 
 - Mechanic-Archor-p2-L_4mm-x1.stl
 - Mechanic-Archor-p2-R_4mm-x1.stl
@@ -87,9 +87,9 @@ You can use an M3x25 screws to secure it in place but friction should be enough.
 
 ![](./Assets/base-with-ring-install1.png)
 
-## Install the reinforcement.
+## Install the reinforcement
 
-You can install "Outer-back-plate-reinforcement_4mm-x1.stl" using two M2x12 screws (not exactly sure about the length).
+You can install "Outer-back-plate-reinforcement_4mm-x1.stl" using two M2x12 screws (not exactly sure about the length).<br>
 The base is designed to allow the mecanism to be removed freely.
 
 ![](./Assets/Outer-back-plate-reinforcement-1.png)
@@ -98,9 +98,9 @@ The base is designed to allow the mecanism to be removed freely.
 
 ## Install back-cover (Outer-back-cover_4mm-x1.stl)
 
-This part is designed to accommodate pretty much any barel jack or connector.
-But you have to design it yourself, use "Outer-back-cover-plug_4mm-x1.stl" as a template.
-You can glue it to "Outer-back-cover_4mm-x1.stl" using gorilla glue.
-The back cover is designed to hold using M2x15 screws. It is screwed into plastic because it doesn't needs real structural integrity.
+This part is designed to accommodate pretty much any barel jack or connector.<br>
+But you have to design it yourself, use "Outer-back-cover-plug_4mm-x1.stl" as a template.<br>
+You can glue it to "Outer-back-cover_4mm-x1.stl" using gorilla glue.<br>
+The back cover is designed to hold in place using M2x15 screws. It is screwed into plastic because it doesn't needs real structural integrity.
 
-![](./Assets/Outer-back-cover_4mm-x1-install1.png)
+![](./Assets/Outer-back-cover_4mm-x1-install1.png)

Build-Instructions/Build-Manual-Base-2.md

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@
 
 "ramp-light-guide_4mm-x2.stl" are meant to be printed using transparent PLA.
 
-Insert "ramp-light-guide_4mm-x2.stl" into their locations on "Ramp_4mm-x1.stl", use canopy glue because gorilla glue may have white residues.
+Insert "ramp-light-guide_4mm-x2.stl" into their locations on "Ramp_4mm-x1.stl", use canopy glue because gorilla glue may have white residues.<br>
 The ramp is designed to be removed easily at will. You can add magnets into it if you want, there are holes for it but it's not necessary.
 
 ![](./Assets/ramp-light-guide_4mm-install.png)
@@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ If they hold by themselves just by friction then don't glue them, it's covenient
 
 - You need to cut a 12 white led strip into two 18 cm strips.
 - Wire them in parallel and add a connector to it.
-- Glue led strip under "ramp-light-guide_4mm-x2.stl", use clamp to hold them in place during curing
+- Glue led strip under "ramp-light-guide_4mm-x2.stl", use clamp to hold them in place during the the curing process.
 - Add electrical black tape to prevent light from leaking elsewhere
 
 ![](./Assets/ramp-light-install.png)

Build-Instructions/Build-Manual-Base-3.md

@@ -1,15 +1,27 @@
 # Base electronic
 
-You can use almost any ESP32 breakout variant, we tried node MCU but it proven to be not reliable, but it could have been caused by a bad quality one of.
-We used the Lolin32 then.
+We use the Lolin32. Former attempt using NodeMCU didn't go well. Likely a bad copy.
 
- - You can use JST connector anything else as long as it suit your needs. You can also just solder everything to the board but it's not recommended.
+ - You can use JST connector or anything else as long as it suit your needs. You can also just solder everything to the board but it's not recommended.
 
 Knowns issues:
+
  - We used 1A 12v to 5v regulator from dollar store, it proved to be unsufficient in some situation like when the servo motor move or the board starts. So 3A or more should be better.
 
 ![](./Assets/Schematic_SGU-Base.png)
 
+# WS2812B
+
+Based on empirical measurements, there is the average power consumption for WS2812B.<br>
+It needs ~1 mA at 0 PWM.
+
+| Channel | Power usage at 255 (mA) |
+|-------------|----------|
+| RED	      | 13.14084507 |
+| GREEN	      | 13.01408451 |
+| BLUE	      | 13.16901408 |
+| RGB (White) | 35.38 |
+
 ## Stepper Driver (DRV8825)
 
 We use a DRV8825 but you can use anything else.

Build-Instructions/Build-Manual-Fails-1.md

@@ -1,12 +1,12 @@
 # Failed prototypes
 
-Many attempt were made before making a functional version. There is a small list of failed prototypes in case you are curious.
+Many attempts were made before making a functional version. There is a small list of failed prototypes in case you are curious.
 
 ## Slip ring attempt
 
-The first attempt used an home made slip ring with 3 tracks, one for GROUND, one for POSITIVE, one for SIGNAL.
-It used cooper tape for conductive track, the middle track is also used to guide bearings.
-It didn't work because it created too much friction, I tried make my own brushes by cutting graphite but it was a fail. Also conductive glue is surprizingly hard to find or ridiculously expensive so my attempt to make my own conductive glue as also a failure.
+The first attempt used an home made slip ring with 3 tracks, one for GROUND, one for POSITIVE, one for SIGNAL.<br>
+It used cooper tape for conductive track, the middle track is also used to guide bearings.<br>
+It didn't work because it created too much friction, I tried make my own brushes by cutting graphite but it was a fail. Also conductive glue is<br> surprizingly hard to find or ridiculously expensive so my attempt to make my own conductive glue as also a failure.<br>
 
 ![](./Assets/failed-proto-slipring1.png)
 
@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ We successfully lighted up a LED for a few minute then it stopped and never work
 
 ## Friction wheel
 
-Because I couldn't resolve myself to deface the back of the gate by putting a visible gear there I tried using different friction material with a wheel.
+Because I couldn't resolve myself to deface the back of the gate by putting a visible gear there I tried using different friction materials with a wheel.
 
 Using TPU:
 
@@ -38,14 +38,14 @@ This one is an epic fail, it could barely hold itself and was ridiculously shack
 
 ## Use a DC motor
 
-The motor had backlash and not enough mechanical stiffness. Also the encoder didn't have required resolution.
+The motor had backlash and not enough mechanical stiffness. Also the encoder didn't have a good resolution.<br>
 Stepper with 1/16 steps does a better job.
 
 ![](./Assets/failed-dc-motor-1.jpg)
 
 ## Plunger inside the gate
 
-I wasn't willing to have visible power contact on the backside so I wanted to be able to power recharge using an hidden plunger that connect to the electrical contact hidden inside the ring. 
+I wasn't willing to have visible power contact on the backside so I wanted to be able to power recharge using an hidden plunger that connect to the electrical contact hidden inside the ring.
 
 In the end I betrayed my conviction after it proved too difficult.
 
@@ -58,4 +58,4 @@ Still it got replaced by a Lolin32.
 
 ## Servo-Motor
 
-I used cheap servo motor for the mecanism but it burned out after a few use. It got replaced by another cheap of the same kind because I didn't have anything else.
+I used cheap servo motor for the mecanism but it burned out after a few use. It got replaced by another cheap of the same kind because I didn't have anything else. Months later it still hold.