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py20555sti committed Jan 2, 2025
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136 changes: 136 additions & 0 deletions content/posts/p58.md
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---
date: 2025-01-01T10:00:00-04:00
description: ""
featured_image: "images/featured_images/p58.jpg"
tags: ["impreza", "gd", "sti"]
title: "STI Spec C key plate"
---

57497FE000 – If anyone else would like it :)

I've had it for a while now. It all started looking like this:

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/start/*"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
It's a nice thing, but feels a bit rough and ready. Even the brand-new key, had
the blue plastic cover sticking out. I was a little disappointed, but quickly
forgot about it, especially after I'd read online that it was a common issue.

The key is intended for cars without an immobilizer, which created a bit of a
problem. My Impreza obviously has an immobilizer, so I bought a replacement key
and saw the blade off, resulting in something like this:

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/evo_1.jpg"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
To start the car, I had to insert the key into the ignition and hold the fob in
such a way that the immobilizer chip would be correctly scanned. It worked
fairly well, meaning I could get the cart to start easily, but the ergonomics
of the solution wasn't great. That's where Charlie came in, the same one who
wrote up [how to install]({{< relref "posts/p54" >}}) an automatic water
spraying system for the intercooler. He designed a custom [resin key
cover](https://802projects.com/blog/stikey/stikey.php):

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/cover/*"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
The replacement piece that slides onto the blade, has a built-in pocket for the
immobilizer chip. It fits perfectly, which, as shown above, even the smart
folks at FHI couldn't quite manage.

The chip and the housing:

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/chip/*"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
Now everything needs to be slid onto the blade:

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/slide/*"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
From now on, the fob only functions as the remote for the central locking
system:

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/evo_2.jpg"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
The resin cover is pretty impressive. It matches the shape of the key
perfectly, the colour is exactly like the original one, and the chip housing
holds onto the chip very snugly. It attaches to the blade securely, while still
allowing you to slide the cover back out of the key (should you ever need to).

The last thing I wanted to do was to replace the cut key with a USDM fob,
NHVWB1U711:

{{<gallery
globalMatch="images/p58/nhvwb1u711/*"
sortOrder="asc"
rowHeight="150"
margins="5"
thumbnailResizeOptions="800x800 q90 Lanczos"
showExif=true
previewType="blur"
embedPreview=true
loadJQuery=true
>}}
Although both transmit at the same frequency (443 MHz), the standard fob coding
procedure cannot add the USDM fob. I've been to several places here in Kraków,
but none had the capability to read the packets sent by both fobs and compare
the data. If anyone knows how to code the NHVWB1U711 with the EUDM 57497AE140,
please let me know.
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